Recent stunners were a Caol Ila 1990 from the Casks of Distinction-series (92-93 points, elegant and coastal), an undisclosed 2008 Bowmore from Sherry casks (91 points, what a bacon plum) and the portrait series triplet for Kirsch Import for their third birthday (Unknown Islay 1991: 92 points; Glenburgie 1995: 90 points); Caperdonich 2000: 90+ points).

In connection with Kirsch, they also dabble in ‚grape and apple juice‘ – try their Armagnacs from Aurian or Cognacs from Pasquet. The Calvados releases were another good leap to broaden the portfolio – we need more movers and shakers in the field of Malternatives. I recommend the 2017 taken from Hampden Estate Rum Casks! Now we can expect another Jamaican pleasure, a Longpond 22 y.o. is about to be released, alongside with a Ledaig 2007. Stay tuned for these offerings.

Glenrothes 36 y.o. Wu Dram Clan 1986, Bourbon Cask 2125, 45,6%

Today, I am tasting a dignified old Glenrothes from a Single Bourbon Cask. Doesn’t sound sexy? Stunad! Glenrothes was a favourite among blenders and still is very underrated as a Single Malt. It is a treasure to be unearthed. Lets try:

It starts off like liquid summer sun, bright, mature, sweet and not really woody. I am getting blood orange, quince, passionfruit, mango, cristallized pineapple, coconut, fudge and salted caramel, vanilla pastry. On the palate it changes to hay, banana and greener elements at first, the dry spice of the wood adds a nice complexity in check. All that is rounded off by peach, ginger and curd cheese-vanilla cake in the long finish. A charming summer dram.

Score: 91

BIZARREBQ-RELEASE

The latter one I could taste recently. Ardbeg states: „The connection to the topic of barbecue is not only made by the smoky notes of the peated malt, but also by the element of fire: double charred Pedro Ximénez sherry casks and specially developed „BBQ casks„, which were extra charred in an old-fashioned brazier, help the Ardbeg BizarreBQ to a special sweet-spicy-smoky aroma.“ – I found this dram successful and round, quite sooty and the pronounced notes of sweet smoke fit well. 90 points – although I categorize this as a typical version close to an Uigeadail, yet slightly more BBQ-ish.

ARDBEG ‚HEAVY VAPOURS‘ 46%

For Ardbeg Planet Day 2023 (June 3rd, online already on May 23rd) the release of Heavy Vapours is scheduled, the stronger Committee Version comes online tomorrow (25.04.), both at a price point of 135 Euro.

This expression has been distilled without the influence of their usual purifier being present on the still. The spirit has been laid down to mature in ex-bourbon casks. The purifier-apparatus on the still is responsible for maintaining Ardbeg’s balance between extreme peat and floral fruitiness as it catches „heavy vapours“ and redistilles them. Without it, what will happen?

Actually, I find the difference way smaller than expected. The ‚Heavy Vapours‘-release remains a classic and flawless Ardbeg, and it is round! The nose sports more coffee, chocolate and coal smoke than usual. There is also a greenish touch in the aroma (Mezcal-agave, Aloe, hops), but this stems more from its young age, I guess. Hot transformers, gun cleaner oil, chalk, tar, iodine, tires, earthy peat, antiseptic spray and more Ardbeggian insanity complete the intriguing nose. It tastes even more ‚ardbeggy‘ as I thought. No rough edges here, maybe a tad less sweet, more bittersweet I dare say. Smoke wafting in and out, nice dustiness, darker. An interesting yet not dramatically different Ardbeg experience. 89 points.

Within the LVMH organization Dr. Bill has already implemented such dark malt at the Glenmorangie Signet version- unpeated though – and one can really taste the difference in terms of chocolate and coffee aromas there. How does this roasting work on peated malt?

As usual, there are two versions to look out for: The Committee Release with 50,1% (April 26th) and the Ardbeg Day Edition with 46% (May 17th), both priced 125.- Euro in Germany. I am going to drink these head to head now:

Comment: Let’s cut to the chase – this clearly is Ardbeg with its typical features, great quality as most of the times. Only nuances differentiate these dark roast versions from the regular distillate, the effect seems less in a peated environment, I guess. The strong phenolic elements might interfere with the experimental roast malt because usually the difference is recognizable.

As to be expected, the 46%-version comes across way more opened on the nose, on the palate, the 50,1%-release takes the trophy though. Give the latter lots of time.

The 46% has an impeccable balance and gives us more of the roast effects. The focus is on BBQ-sauce, coffee, chocolate, roasted steak, soot and vanilla. I am also getting thistle and aloe, deep peat, iodine, sweet smoke, suede, charcoal, tar, resin, mustard seed, oatmeal cookies and antiseptic spray on old bandaids.

The stronger version is greener over all and plays it close to the chest. Peat, hazel, aloe, herbs, chocolate, tar, tanned leather, resin, tires, hot transformer and phenols are the main characteristics, it takes time to open up. However, in the mouth the strength in abv is an asset, and it turns less green. The soot, lively acidity and iodine along with typical Ardbeg tastes make this a winner as well.

Both versions punk well. Hard to decide – let’s call it a tie.

Scores: 89 – 90 (both)