Tenuta San Guido ‚Sassicaia‘ 1997, Bolgheri, 13%

Comment: The nose of this classic at its peak of maturity reveals leather (suede), game, nutty steak, blackberry, green bell pepper, herbs from the Provence, red earth and  bricks, pencil shavings and graphite, exotic spices and a discrete note of toasted wood. I am glad it is not ‚modern‘. This Sassicaia posesses a breathtaking balance and a lively acidity still. This acidity helps the wine to a great sustain in the mouth which it coats completely at a medium dryness with fine tannins. The finish lasts very long and is highly quaffable at the same time. There is not much to dislike. The only thing one could miss is more fruity glycerine with a fresh and hedonistic touch to it, it is more subdued overall. However, I liked it a lot and compare it to the wonderful 1995, which was a bit fresher.

By the way, we had this with an Irish oxen rump steak and some antipasti, as these pictures show. My friend Christian Thoma, who is going to duel me soon in selecting wine in front of public tasters, only deserves the royal treatment. It was a pleasure, your highness.

Score: 96 (2012)

Wine enthusiast Christian also wrote some reviews for the bottles from our tasting in German (please click here). I mostly go along with his observations, but I liked the Van Volxem Riesling Sekt more than he did (like some participants). I already posted impressions and a picture of my highlights here. Here are my scores and occassional short notes:

What we actually had ...

Van Volxem ‚Riesling brut‘ Winzersekt 2002 Saar Steillage 12%

Score: 92 (2012) –  A wonderful and fruity Saar Riesling taste with discrete residual sweetness and acidity translated into a sparkling wine theme with good moussage. Not as rigid and mighty/complex like the subsequent Champaign, but very well done and fun to drink.

Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve rosé 2002 Champagne brut 12,5%

Score: 91+ (2012) – technically better than the predecessor with great Pinot Noir character and a solid backbone, yet not vibrant somehow.

Oasi degli Angeli ‚Kurni‘ 2006 Marche IGT rosso, 15%

Score: 93 (2012) – Our friend Gregor brought this along (thanks again). All we knew about it was that it was a Montepulciano, so we placed it early in the line-up. What a mistake. This is anything but typical, all on concentration and fruit power at 15%, almost like an Australian Shiraz. It splitted the audience. Extract like an Amarone, quite dry, overripe fruit, a monster, that somehow doesn’t fit but tastes nice, nevertheless. Mmmh.

Fattoria Petrolo ‚Galatrona‘ 2001, 13,5%

Score: 92 (2012) – Great things were said about this Merlot (made near Arezzo). It had the basic and enjoyable notes of a well-made Tuscan Merlot but somehow it had farmyardy elements in it, not very elegant but complex. Let’s also take into account that it followed a monster. However, it can’t hold a candle to a Masseto or Messorio. I heard that the 2004 was way better.

Attila Gere ‚SOLUS‘ 2004 Kopar/Villany, 14,5%

Score: 95+ (2012) – This ‚pirate‘, a famous Merlot from Hungary’s best winemaker, really rocked and saved Merlot’s honour on that night. I can understand why it has beaten a Petrus once in a blind tasting. Really excellent and a recommendation at a great price!

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1996 Pauillac, 1er Cru Cl., 12,5%

Score: 97 (2012) – First Growth as it should be, and in a style of days gone by. Really deep and classic. Pure pleasure for experienced drinkers.

Domaine P. Usseglio ‚Cuvée de mon Aieul‘ 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 14,5%

Score: 91 (2012) – Parker elevated this one to 100 points (Hedonist Gazette), so we were excited. On the palate and in the finish, this wine fell apart, it had liqueurish and compote-like fruitiness and blueberry yoghurt notes with some herbs (Provence), pepper and forest floor, but that was all. A disappointment.

Vega Sicilia / Bodegas Alion ‚ALION‘ 2001 Reserva, Ribera del Duero, 14%

Score: 95+ (2012) – Great Tempranillo with the finest of tannins, impressive for almost everyone at the table. Tobacco, a touch of wood, steak, cool minerality, blackberry, cranberry, vibrant acidity, forest floor and much more. Recommendation!

Weingut Hans Igler ‚Ried Kart‘ 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Deutschkreuz (Burgenland), 13,5%

Score: 93- (2012) – the youngster among the line-up and a surprise by Christian, who added it to our original range. Thanks! This bottle from the hottest vineyard in the Deutschkreutz-area could hold its own, but we drank it too young, it still was a bit closed. Biting tannins and acidity, youthful freshness and fruitiness (to unfold: cassis, cherry), fresh wood, compact body.

Kanonkop ‚Paul Sauer‘ 2002, Stellenbosch, 14%

Score: 95 (2012) – I love South African Hedonism in wines with their exotic spices. This example is one of the finest bottles from the Cape and can age very well. Leather, loads of terroir, fireworks, fruit, wow. Recommendation again, if this is your style.

Penfolds ‚BIN 95 – Grange‘ 2002, Barossa Valley, 14,5%

Score: 96+ (2012) – Most of all, I loved that it isn’t this modern monster one expects from Australian Shiraz. It is very well-balanced and complex. Of course it bears typicality, but in a very fine style. Not to be missed and a piece of wine history. Still one of the benchmarks.

Hobbs ‚Gregor‘ Shiraz 2007, Barossa Ranges, 16%

Score: 95 (2012) – Another addition to the line-up from Gregor, the wine actually bears his name! This was an excellent choice allowing the tasters to compare where Australian wine came to (and from at the Grange before). This is your typical power bomb, but in good balance, modern and full of extract, primary but with a lot to display in this realm. Gregor isn’t for the faint-hearted.

Kracher ‚Nouvelle Vague – Nummer 11‘ 2002 Trockenbeerenauslese (Neusiedlersee) 7%

Score: 98+ (2012) – The winner of the night, no doubt. Close to perfection and still made from daddy Kracher (R.I.P.). Liquid magic!

D’Arenberg Vintage Fortified Shiraz 1997, McLaren Vale, 18,5%

Score: 90 (2012) -Highly decorated, so we thought it might be able to step into the shoes of Seppeltsfield’s great products, and d’Arenberg didn’t disappoint with their reds ever. It had the death seat after Kracher but we still could judge it fairly. Not as complex as we hoped, it posesses artificial Amarena-cherry aromas, honey, thyme and some grapes in a sweet surrounding. Not convincing.

At another occassion, we wanted to have a great Friuli white, so we went for a Livio Felluga – and a Switzerland wine, a Fendant:

Livio Felluga ‚Collio‘ 2006 Sauvignon DOC, 13,5%

Comment: Big fruit (jammy peach, peach core, gooseberry, cassis, green apple, eldeflower, dash of lime), honey, some hay and vanilla on the nose. Promising. On the palate, however, this is way less exuberant and rather dry. The hay takes over big time (dislike!), along with apple, gooseberry, elderflower, lemon zest and a medium-intense acidity. The finish reveals peach core (persipan) and green grapes. Maybe it aged a bit too long, who knows. I expected more clarity and vibrancy somehow, this seems a bit subdued.

Score: 91 (2012)

Cave St-Pierre Fendant 2012 AOC Valais, 12%

Comment: Green and yellow apples, gooseberries, a dash of lime and hay with a little acid in the nose. The palate reminds me of Cider and apple seeds and potatoe skin, but what this wine really lacks is acidity. A flat one, even in the finish (again with potatoe and apple skin).

Score: 72 (2012)

Bogle Vineyards Petite Sirah 2006, Graton, CA, 13,5%

Comment: This Californina reveals red fruit jelly, bell pepper, vanilla, brioche, oak, herbs (Provence) and leather, all rather primary, a ’nice to meet you‘-wine without a lot of depth.

Score: 89 (2012)

The last five wines were tasted in various situations in which no tasting notes could be taken, so I will just post scores and maybe a word or two:

Argentiera 2003 Bolgheri Superiore DOC 14% (Magnum)

Score: 92/93 (2012) – Typical Bolgheri from the hot vintage 2003 with a rock solid performance. A lot of wood though, a touch too much, as AC DC would state it. We had this with the Genießerstammtisch in the Regensburg-Winzer vineyards high above the city, where we could also try a really decent Merlot from that very place. A wonderful event.

Familie Heitzer Regensburger Landwein (Bach) 2008 Müller-Thurgau trocken 11%

Score: 86 (2010 – 2012) – One of the few convincing wines grown in my region, a nice sipper.

Delaunois D. & Fils Champagne 1er Cru Brut Selection 12%

Score: 88 (2012) – I raved about the Grand Cru Cuvee Royal, but this version is a bit closed and not overly complex.

Dr. Gänz Weißer Riesling 2010 Spätlese feinherb, Nahe, 11%

Score: 90+ (2012)

Bernd Kilburg Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr 2006 Riesling Auslese, Mosel, 10%

Score: 90 (2012)

After this tour de force more wine reviews will follow. Stay tuned and join us in one of our tastings.

Click here for Christian’s detailed words about the wines.

Click here for Phoebe’s collection of (weird/funny) quotes of that evening. Christoph’s commenting answer is underneath.

I am  grateful for the company, the generous additions to our range and the fine food (among many great antipasti there were Highland Cattle and Bison from the grill) prepared by Christoph Hauser and my wife. Here are some impressions – enjoy and join us next time!

The Original Range

What we actually had ...

Total Exhaustion at the Grill (Wine Academic Christian Thoma and Chef Christoph Hauser)

Some of our Guests

Love and Joy

My Winners

Zur Einladung (pdf-Datei) hier klicken:

Einladung 7. Weinverkostung Regensburg – 2012

Es wäre schön Euch begrüßen zu dürfen. Christoph Hauser wird wahrscheinlich ein Bison auf den Grill packen, dazu u.a. den Mouton Rothschild, den Vega Sicilia und den Penfolds Grange im Glas. Ebenso wird der 100 Parker-Punkte-Hammer von Usseglio aus Chateauneuf-du-Pape unsere Gaumen verwöhnen. Was will der Genießer mehr…

              … ein paar Impressionen …

nach dem Austrian Whisky & Spirits Festival in Linz (schön war’s!) steht noch ein Hammer-Wochenende bevor. Ich möchte Euch zwei Messen ans Herz legen, die Ihr nicht verpassen solltet. Auf beiden Veranstaltungen sind wir vertreten und verlosen auch einige Tickets dafür. Dazu wird es in Regensburg noch eine ‚Open-Bottle-Night‘ (Whisky, Rum, Cognac, etc.) im kleinen Kreis geben. Hier alle Details unter 1, 2 und 3:

1) Braukunst Live 2012 (München) – mit Spirituosenbereich – vom 20. – 22. April 2012

Schwerpunkt: Bier, Whisky, Spirits

Diese neuartige Messe von den Machern der Finest Spirits will Euch Bier auf völlig neue Art näher bringen – denn wir haben in Deutschland eine fantastische Bierkultur und Vielfalt, die aber wenig wahrgenommen wird. Bier soll hier als Genussmittel der gehobenen Art in allen Spielarten und Sorten gezeigt werden.

Zahlreiche deutsche und internationale Brauereien Biersommeliers, Sondersude, Neuheiten und Überraschungen sind zu probieren, dazu kommen ein paar der bekannten Stände der Finest Spirits mit feinen Whiskys und Spirituosen (Caminecci mit Glenglassaugh und C&S Drams, Slowdrink.de/Munich-Spirits, Liebl/ Coillmor, Mike’s Whiskeyhandel und The Whisky Store).

Neben unserem Stand, an dem es auch wieder ein paar Monster Malts, Klasse-Rums und mehr geben wird, haben wir auch an der exklusiven Messebierabfüllung mitgewirkt, ein Bier gebraut aus getorftem Whiskymalz – namens Caliber 45 (MacHeath’s Murder Malt, 6%). Dies ist der perfekte Brückenschlag zwischen der ‚Finest-Spirits‘ und der ‚Braukunst Live‘ in einem Produkt. Holt Euch eine Flasche davon! Ähnlich krankes Zeug gibt es dort en masse.

Gewinnspiel: Frank Böer hat uns großzügigerweise ein paar Freikarten zukommen lassen. Wenn Ihr diese gewinnen wollt, bitte einfach slowdrink.de auf facebook „liken/gefällt mir setzen“ und einen Kommentar hinterlassen, weshalb Ihr ein Ticket braucht. Am Donnerstagabend geben wir die Gewinner auf slowdrink.de bekannt.

Für alle weiteren Infos zu DEM Bierfestival bitte hier klicken.

_____________________________________________________________________________________________________

2) Frühjahrsverkostung von ‚Wein und mehr‘ im Klostergut Buchhof (Regensburg/Kelheim) am 22. und 23. April (So. und Mo.)

Schwerpunkt: Whisky, Wein, Rum, Kulinarik, Cocktail, etc.

Unser neuer Partner Wein und mehr in Regensburg, deren Spirituosenbereich ich seit April betreue, stellt hier in angenehmer Atmosphäre die neuen Produkte vor. Zahlreiche Winzer, Hersteller, regionale Kulinarik und ca. 30 feine Spirituosen zur Probe sind vor Ort. Auch für das leibliche Wohl ist dort wunderbar gesorgt, der ideale Ausflug. Am Montag bin ich persönlich dort, um Euch die neuen Single Malts / Single Cask Whiskys, eine besondere R(h)umauswahl, Gin, Cognac, Cocktail-Premixes und andere feine Tropfen vorzustellen. Ich garantiere, dass sich ein Besuch lohnen wird, es sind echte Knaller dabei.

Für alle Infos bitte hier klicken.

____________________________________________________________________________________________________

3) Open Bottle Night in Regensburg

Schwerpunkt: anything liquid

Some of the Bottles from last Session

Im Mai wollen wir noch eine sog. ‚Open Bottle Night‘ bei Pit im Whiskyzimmer / -museum veranstalten, bei dem ca. 10-12 Leute teilnehmen können. Dabei kann jeder individuell probieren, wozu er Lust hat und kann je nach Geschmack weitere Tipps bekommen oder sich einfach durchtasten (ca. 50-70 offene Flaschen, 1000 Samples).

Der kleine Kreis garantiert für gute Gespräche und interessanten Erfahrungsaustausch – sowohl für Neulinge als auch für Kenner. Bezahlt wird nur das, was man verkostet hat, es sind vom Top-Dram bis zum Standard alle vertreten, jedoch ausgesucht gut.

Wer Interesse hätte, soll uns mailen, dann machen wir einen für alle passenden Termin aus. Oben und hier könnt ihr Fotos der letzten Sessions sehen.

Wir freuen uns auf Euren Besuch und wünschen guten Genuss,

Euer slowdrink.de-Team / Pit Krause.

So what is the middle ground here as I would like to keep a record of my drinking experience? For me, the following procedure works out: I am taking short notes after (and sometimes inobtrusively during) such situations in which it hasn’t been very suitable to write down a thorough review. Occasionally a score has to do – although I believe that mere scores without comments aren’t worth much.

A stack of such remarks and scores in various drink categories has piled up here by now, and so I hope you forgive me their brief fashion (or absence) when I share them with you within the next days.

Let’s start off with four sparklers:

Domaine du Moulin de Dusenbach (Bernard Schwach) Cremant d’Alsace Brut 12,5%

Comment: This didn’t fully convince us, it is very yeasty and rather one-dimensional – but not bad.

Score: 86

Juve y Camps Gran Reserva de la Familia 2005 Cava Brut Nature 12%

Juve y Camps of a Different Vintage

Comment: Advertised as one of the best Cavas from Spain – well, it is nice but can’t compete with some Segura Viudad products, in particular the Brut Reserva Heredad. The nose shows green apples, brioche, mossy earth and whiffs of peach, grass and lemon. It is somewhat restrained. Tastewise, the family reserve comes accross a bit like an Italian bitter (Campari) and damp, not very alive with a lot of yeasty notes and dried flowers (some lavender) leading into a tightly knit and lengthy finish. I won’t buy it again for it is too minor in tone for me, this is not my style of sparkling wine, but: It is profound in depth.

Score: 89

Delaunois D. et Fils Champagne 1er Grand Cru Cuvee Royale 12%

Comment: This is special because it is made only from Pinot Noir grapes. It also comes at a very fair price (below 20 Euros is possible). But price is not the standard here, only taste – and its taste is amazingly fresh and complex, highly drinkable and fun. It reminds me of the core of white peaches, plu some chalk and brioche – very Champaign-like. Exactly my thing, and the others loved it as well. Stunner to buy a case of!

Score: 92

Deutz Champagne 2002 Brut 12%

Comment: This one comes from the great Grand Crus of the historic Champagne, a fine vintage champaign? YES, it has a fine structure of pearls, a lot of acidity with a touch of metallic minerality which counterbalances the yeast very well. I am getting white peach, peach kernel, toasted brioche, lilacs, green apples, marzipan and bitter almonds, macadamia, a touch of exotic fruitiness and some mossy earth. It somehow grows on you sip by sip and displays an amazing complexity. In a different style than the Delaunois with more character and personality.

Score: 92+

More short notes to come in some days (SMWS december/january, wines like Mas de Daumas Gassac, Passito from Lieselehof and Alsatian beauties, Caol Ila Manager’s Choice, The Feis Ile Bottlings 2011, some r(h)ums, Macallan 10 Red Stripe 75cl, a review of the Elephant session’s drams and other Single Malts), stay tuned.

We started out with two sparkling wines from the Prosecco area (Conegliano/Valdobbiadene) and wider Venetia which come in very fancy outfits. These wines were:

Ettore Ceschin ‚Bepin de Eto – Rosato Millesimato‘ 2009 Vino Spumante Brut 11,5%

Comment: I couldn’t find the vintage on the bottle, only the information about the 2010 lot on the back label. Anyway, this Venetian sparkling Rosato is a strawberry and raspberry-driven little charmer with freshness and good moussage and no yeasty notes. Later you find peaches, melon, lychee and other fruits in the uncomplicated mix. A great aperitif with a lasting structure, not really complex stuff, but simply joyful and well-done.

Score: 88 (2011)

As new guests kept pouring in, we opened a second wine from Ettore Ceschin:

Ettore Ceschin ‚Bepin de Eto – Prosecco Superiore Millesimato‘ 2009 Extra Dry 11,5% DOCG

Comment: Same vintage guessing like above, only the lot number says 2010. However, this is convincing Prosecco. Not as dry as the label suggests, this is wonderfully fresh and fruity. I like it as much as the Mionetto bottlings.

Score: 89 (2011)

Then lunch (game in port) required a mature Bordeaux on the lighter side which made me go for Saint Emilion:

Chateau La Gaffeliere 1990 1er Grand Cru Classe St.-Emilion 12,5%

Comment: Very typical for its soil and just at its peak. Brighter berries lead the way of this autumn-like wine with leafy notes, game, forest floor, leather and pencil shavings. The backbone is still intact. It fitted the game really well and revealed secondary and tertiary aromas in amazing complexity.

Score: 93 (2011)

We had killed these bottles and a liqueur from my mother-in-law, who produces the Wallner-Gewekin Liqueurs, when neighbours arrived to congratulate at coffee time. As we still were in a bubbly mood and had apple crumble, we opened a lifestyle / fun-oriented sparkler, a cider from South Tyrolia, while my daughter opened the first birthday presents of her life (and prefering to play with the wrapping paper instead of the actual present):

Pur Südtirol ‚S’POM‘ Apfelcidre Dry 6,5%

Comment: What can I say? This in not a mind-boggling elixir, but it is incredibly refreshing and slightly sour apple cider – good now, even better in summer. The apples stem from a Grand Cru mountain site of the Southern Dolomites at 900 meters a.s.l. and express also some flowery notes at a great balance. There are not many better ways of having apples!

Score: 88 (2011)

For dinner, we had one big course and three wines ( I am on a diet, but no one cared – so I would have to play more sports this week). The plates were filled with cold beef breast in a vinaigrette and little onions, pickles, eggs etc. as toppings, one of mom’s recipes. This went well with a Pinot Noir or a Riesling:

Sybille Kuntz ‚Gold-Quadrat‘ 2007 Riesling Spätlese (Alte Reben) trocken 13,5% Mosel

Comment: This Goldquadrat Riesling comes from a rising winemaker team consisting of husband and wife – who wears the pants here considering the name . They are growing fast and get well known around the scene step by step. This wine sourced from old vines isn’t very concentrated but shows good minerality and some natural sweetness that simply fits. Honey, white peach, bright fruits and reminiscenses of Alsacian Riesling hit the mid-palate at good balance. Very quaffable.

Score: 91 (2011)

The dish worked with the Mosel-Riesling, but it was elevated into a higher class by the Pinot Noir / Spätburgunder from a guest:

Schäffer & Zeter ‚Bischofskreuz‘ Spätburgunder 2009 Pfalz / Palatinate (no photo)

Comment: This modern German Spätburgunder had nice notes of strawberry, raspberry and grapes, it was really fresh with nice acidity and quite some terroir. The wine was good but the combination was great.

Score: 89 (2011)

For the later evening with conversation and leisure I chose a heavy wine that can mature very well, a Sagrantino di Montefalco, the top wine from that region made from the Sagrantino grape. This Umbrian area also produces cheaper wines named Rosso di Montefalco (mostly Sangiovese, some Sagrantino and other varietals) which are excellent for a low price. Try one if you can. Anyway we had this one from the amazing 1997 vintage in Tuscany and Umbria:

Saiagricola ‚Colpetrone‘ Sagrantino di Montefalco 1997 DOCG 13,5%

Comment: Ruby-red, dry, with a lot of grip — still young with a strong tannic and acidic backbone. I should have waited even longer but it already drinks nice. I was getting leather, wet dog, herbs (thyme, rosemary and oregano), soft smoke of toasted oak, pencil shavings, dark fruits (blackberry, maraschino cherry), balsamico vinegar, dark chocolate and almonds. A real complex biggie! This Sagrantino will open up and soften out in five to ten years, I suppose – then it will be heavenly.

Score: 94 (2011)

We finished the wonderful day with a miniature of Carlos I. Brandy (ca. 2010), of which I adore older versions from the 1970ies. The new bottling is still nice but not as deep and complex. I would go for 86 points.

Tomorrow I am going to continue catching up with notes. Included will be some rums, whiskies, liqueurs and Alsacian wines.

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