Aultmore 21 y.o. Maltbarn 1997,  50,7%

Comment: This is fruity-herbal and also juicy, very well-balanced. I am getting strawberry, cranberry, lemon, orange, macadamia-cookie, herbal infusion, and a discrete leafy bitterness in the nose. On the palate more wood Comes through (yet still within borders of good balance), but spice is clearly there.

Score: 89

Glentauchers 21 y.o. Maltbarn 1997 , 48,0%

Comment: A mild and sour-fruity dram, very typical for this underrated distillery. We have lemon and grapefruit, green tea, lemongrass, white peach, a hint of ginger and white pepper, fresh laundry, asparagus, smoked herbs and moss. It reminds me of a racy Riesling , excellent balance, too.

Score: 90

Speyside Distillery 29 y.o. Maltbarn 1989, 49,1%

Comment: This Oldie is very fruity (tropical: orange jam, passion fruit, white peach) but also has some malty sweetness, nice spices, creamy vanilla, like a baroque Palatinian Riesling – great in taste and balance, and sooo juicy!

Score: 90

Braes of Glenlivet 23 y.o. Maltbarn 1994, 48,7%

Comment: This quite rare Single Malt offers autumnal fruit and leafs, (blood) oranges, grapefruit, sour apple rings (Haribo), catnip, some flowery freshness and acidity.

Score: 88+

Glenrothes 22 y.o. Maltbarn 1996, sherry cask, 48.7%

Comment: This one is my favourite in the bunch along with the Springer, so alive and sexy with leather and spice, orange zest, cinnamon, forest honey, Stollen, raisins, a hint of sherry, perfectly balanced and enticing. Mooooreish!

Score: 90+

Springbank 15 y.o. Maltbarn 2003, sherry cask, 48,9%

Comment: Sprinbank back on top with sheer quality and great oak usage – meaty ham, salt and spice, brine, maritime wind, cookies, brighter and darker fruits (peach, warmth of earth, plums, raisins, redcurrant), Parmigiano Reggiano and blue cheese. Tasty stuff.

Score: 91-

Caol Ila 14 y.o. Maltbarn 2004, 53,7%

Comment: A typical Caol Ila in the right age, very herbal, great palate and a very long finish. Good Islay quaffer!

Score: 88

Glenrothes 10 y.o. The Shining Dram, from butt, 52,9%

Comment: I call this a greenhouse dram. I am getting floral elements, linseeds, orchard fruit (pear, apple, cider), green grapes, tomato plants, wet malt, pistachio, lemon zest and white pepper. All is in balance and a typical dram for ist age. Water opens it up a little more.

Score: 84

Glenrothes 20 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 51,5%

Comment: This older version is wonderfully fruity (already esters of tropical fruits like passion fruit, but also orchard apple, Haribo’s sour apple rings and orange zest). There also is a fresh mintiness. The dram is a great combo between sour fruit elements and woody spices with vanilla. Although the oak is a bit loud, the oily mouthfeel and apricot fruit reward the drinker manifold.

Score: 87

Ben Nevis 19 y.o. The Shining Dram, from Bourbon hogshead, 48,6%

Comment: To start with, this is one of the most unusual drams I ever had, hence very Ben Nevis (which I like). Yes, an awkward mix awaited me but it is very interesting and mind-boggling. It will find its lovers and haters. The spectrum of aromas consists of hazelnut bush, cereals, mashy youthfulness, canned coffee milk, sheep stable and ewe’s cheese, fresh paint, coal, cocoa powder and Indian curried pickles. On the palate it is a wild ride in unusual terrain of old wooden planks, persipan, and all of the above. Cool yet crazy. Give it a try!

Score: 87

Auchroisk 24 y.o. The Shining Dram, from Bourbon hogshead, 43,5%

Comment: A summer breeze high in the Alps, this is the headline here, Fragile but so complex and lovely. Great balance and maturity, floral lightness, like a summer wind in a flower dress on an ‚Alm‘. We also have fruitiness (kiwi, strawberry, Austrian apricot), coconut, iron, grass and vanilla cream. Very elegant and a must-have for fans of this profile. Big sips recommended.

Score: 90+

Blended Malt 23 y.o. The Shining Dram, from sherry hogshead, 51,1%

Comment: X-Mas cake (‚Christstollen‘ soaked), very juicy – the sherry is perfectly integrated and not dry, which is rare at this high intensity. Rumtopf, raisins, figs, cherries, blackberries, cinnamon, orange zest, dark Wood – all in balance and full expression. Stunner!

Score: 90+

Orkney Single Malt 12 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 50,6%

Comment: Give this one time and it will rock your world. Starts youthful and with great balance, then it becomes more mature. Mossy river, peaty Highland floor with heather, herbs, ozone, black pepper, juniper, sloe berry, hazelnut shrub, sweet malt, Turkish delight, white chocolate, litchi, kurkuma, olive oil and more. It tastes wonderful and manages to combine two worlds: lightness yet being heavily loaded with aromas. The malty sweetness and complexity in coastal style is breathtaking. Buy!

Score: 90

Caol Ila 10 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 53,3%

Comment: A typical example, and a nice one too. Like a walk in a mediterranean olive grove with a glass of Islay Whisky. Oven fire gone out with spent coal, juniper, olives, resin, licorice, fishing boat (ropes, kelp, fish, seashell minerality, peat, ozone, green tea and Lemon chicken. On the palate it is well-balanced, spirit driven and naked, enticing! Flintiness joins in as well as a sweet oily maltiness. Pure Islay with finesse!

Score: 89

Overall, I am quite impressed with this debut. Well picked, Markus!

You can get these drams, prices and pictures on the website: www.theshiningdram.com

Blended Malt ‚very old‘ Whisky-Fässle bottled 2016, sherry butt, 45,4%

Comment: Loved the last one, hope this can keep up. The nose reveals dry sherry wood, garden fruit and exotic fruit (esp. pineapple), cocoa, ginger, pepper, licorice, resin and soaked gingerbread cake (if that exists). On the palate it shifts into higher gear, really impressive and classic in style. Old polished sherry malt style that reminds me oft he biggest names in Speyside with a hint of Orkney. Juicy stuff that keeps you sipping because the finfish is soooo classy.

Score: 90

Cragganmore 27 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1989 – 2016, sherry butt, 48,7%

Comment: This one is adored by quite some friends and I also find Cragganmore underrated but not all bottlings of this herbal malt are great. This specimen is the Amaro (an Italian Bitter) among Craggies, herbal healing. It also reminds me of a walk in the forest with a basket of apples and a flower bouquet. I also has nutty elements (even pistacchio), beech leafs, bark, nettles, green tea, honey, agave (yes, it has tequila-esque moments), yuzu and orange zest. The palate is mature and unusual, great old oak, sherry-style, yet teaish green, wow. Orange, apples, apricots, licorice, vanilla and fallen leafs. A long finish rewards the drinker. Different and hard to score, maybe I am at the low end of this one.

Score: 89 (some might go higher here)

Fine Tennessee Whiskey 5y.o. Whisky-Fässle 2011 – 2016, barrel, 51,4%

Comment: Clearly a Dickel from Tullahoma (I lived close many years ago) with rye in the mash bill. Complex sweet oak elements meet maple syrup, nuts and marzipan. Very more-ish.

Score: 88

Caol Ila 10 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 2006 – 2017,for Whisky Klubben Maltes Vänner hogshead, 53,6%

Comment: My favourite from this batch – which I wouldn’t have expected from the sheer facts on the label. This is so pure, clean and spirit-driven, it hurts. Classic profile with juniper, olive oil, moss, coal gas, big lemon drop, green apples, gunpowder tea, soot and ashes along with peat, resin and tar. The palate is powerful and very well-balanced. Expressive purity! Amazing spirit. Islay holiday at the first sip.

Score: 90

Mannochmore 28 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1988 – 2016, hogshead, 46,0%

Comment: Another cool pick, I must say. Wonderfully old-school with a metallic edge. I am getting leather, peaches and stone fruits, orange zest, quince, lemons. Behind that there are nougat whiffs, mild chili and slightly bitter old oak elements that fit very well. It tastes very complex and much fruitier than expected. It is an example of a solid and complete malt.

Score: 90

Caol Ila 10 y.o. Gordon & Macphail 2005 – 2015 for McWhisky, Bourbon Hogshead, 223 btl., 56,4%

Comment: Very austere and clean at first, wonderfully spirit-driven. The main aromas aside from medium-intense peat and discrete sulphur are apple skins, freshly tanned suede, olive oil, pepper and chili, juniper, camphor, coal and lemon zest. I am also getting more etherial elements like thyme, rosemary, burning mountain pine needles. Almost no wood here. In second row there are chalk, pear schnaps, ozone and coal gas, green tea and grapefruit. Now let’s taste this really complex dram: wow, it has a Talisker-esque pepper-catch, hot stuff like a peated chili. The coal turns sooty in the mouth. It is good, but water makes it great – it renders more complexity and balance, fruit, chalk and more, in fact, it becomes less Caol Ila, more like a mix between Ardbeg and Bowmore. Great length in a wonderful finish that leaves you asking for another glass. A great pick by Daniel Kamm and the McWhisky-Team – exemplary Islay!

Score: 84 / 86 with water

Mortlach 9 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2004, Refill Hogshead, 46%

Comment: This pale and malty dram tastes exactly like a raw peppered steak with spinach on the side. We also got apricot and peach, morello cherry and sandalwood aromas. Steely Dram (sorry, Steely Dan!)

Score: 84

Longmorn 11 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2003 – 2014, Bourbon Barrel, 46%

Comment: Their best release so far! What a fruitbasket with incredible maturity after these years (it already displays dextrosity). Coconut, vanilla, pineapple, passion fruit, gooseberries, pear, lemons, elderflower combined with white chocolate, tinned milk, honeysuckle and toffee. Creamy and voluptuous mouthfeel, a sour-fruity and baroque Longmorn, Speyside goes Caribbean.

Score: 90

Glengoyne 7 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2007 – 2014, Refill Sherry, 46%

Comment: This dram is somewhat tragic because it has great potential but was bottled way too early (baby murder, so to speak) as it is very green, mashy and close to a new make. Nevertheless there is complexity and some weight already: apple compote, sour apple mash (like in a cider factory), autumnal flowers, kiwi, Haribo peach gums, honey, pistachio and candy floss – this would have been amazing some years in the future. Now it is interesting but not there yet.

Score: 76

Miltonduff 7 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2007 – 2014, Refill Butt, 46%

Comment: This one stands like a champion for its young age, especially on the palate. A wonderful sherry influence on a medium dry and flowery base. Don’t rush this Miltonduff! One can detect dried flowers, hay, blood oranges, bergamotte, lit sandwood sticks, tinned coffee cream, some oak and good acidity. The finish leaves you craving for more.

Score: 88

Auchroisk 12 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2001, Refill Hogshead, 46%

Comment: A very unsusual whisky, in parts it reminds me of mezcal (agave, white pepper) and steely gins (juniper). Quite dry and austere, lots of hay, celeriac, wet earth, chili, leather and peaches. Malt for Mexicans. Bring out the Mariachi.

Score: 80

Caol Ila 5 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2008 – 2014, Refill Hogshead, 414 btl., 46%

Comment: A typical and fresh Caol Ila that surprises me (only five years old) – peat, twig smoke, olive oil, juniper, lemon, chalk, mint, nettles, pepper and spice in the nose. Only the taste reveals its youth with greener elements ans some mash. Nice finish.

Score: 86

Laphroaig 11 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2002 – 2014, Refill Hogshead, 151 btl., 46%

Comment: It is one of these green-banana-like Laphs (like original bottlings these days, which often perform less good than indie bottlings), limestone, green tea, peat smoke and old port aromas. Some might love this more than I do. A solid Islay dram though.

Score: 86+

There also is a Talisker 6 y.o. from 2008 in the new range – it is not a green as one would think, already a typical maritime beach-BBQ dram, way better than Storm (86 points).

Caol Ila 30 y.o. Archives 1982 – 2012, Bourbon Hogshead 758, 207 btl., 51,2%

Comment: Unusually fruity at first whiff but still with the typical peaty DNA of Caol Ila or even the one of older medicinical Islay drams like Ardbeg (indeed) but only for seconds. This amazing stuff turns towards mineral austerity after a while and then displays fruit again – a tightrope dancer with impeccable balance between these worlds. I am getting lemon zest, salt, olive oil, tarry tires, chalky and discrete oak, minty freshness, tropical fruits (peaches, pineapple, banana), herbs for soups and only a little juniper. This is mature Islay whisky for the connoisseur of elegant drams. No water needed.

Score: 90+

Caol Ila 28 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Sea Life‘ 1984 – 2012, ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 254 btl., 53,5%

Comment: Same basic maritime style minus the fruitiness of above’s bottling, yet wonderfully austere and mineral again with a touch of lemon zest. This is spicier and more Talisker-esque, dare I say. The peat layer is thin and and very elegant but develops some grip on the palate. Chalky oak again, tar, burning embers and juniper combine in great balance with wonderful of sea salt on the palate. Great choice.

Score: 89

Caol Ila 21 y.o. TheWhiskyCask 1990 – 2012, Bourbon Cask, 55%

Comment: This one is different, a farmyardy and herbal peater with quite some spice (white pepper, coriander, a little cinnamon), altogether the most typical of the three (white pepper,olive oil, juniper, lemon chicken, suede leather) – and it is notably younger and a little less balanced, but has more power and oak. The dry attack with some sulphury moments is best tamed with some drops of water.

Score: 86

Tomorrow the German chapter of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society will present their new releases for Christmas time. Our friend Ralf Dänzer and I don’t want you to find any bad drams underneath the X-mas tree – that’s why he sent me some samples via the reindeer express yesterday. Blitzen looked kind of hammered, maybe it tried from the Port Charlotte .

As the most-wanted-distillery bottlings sell out quickly, I tasted them right away to give you a notion. Good luck in filling your stockings with these releases. I couldn’t find a bad one yet.

Highland Park 26 y.o. SMWS 4.151, 1984, Refill Sherry Butt, 53%

Comment: Quite spicy in the nose at first, the Sherry is talking loud and clearly,  then it smoothens out with maritime freshness and gets much rounder. Soft smoke, honey, Turkish delight, apples and cider, peaches, Werthers Original toffee, café au lait, nice dark wood and a spicy backbone of white pepper and chili. Nice but incomparable to the amazing palate. It drinks beautifully and is a dream of balance that still has power, the Sherry is well-integrated, heavy and light at the same time. Water makes it creamier and more accessible. Long finish.

Score: 90

Clynelish 25 y.o. SMWS 26.71, 1984 – 2010, Refill Sherry Butt, 57,3%

Comment: Very typical Clynelish (apples, candlewax, tropical fruit, quince, maritime air with a hint of peat smoke and all that jazz) in the nose. A fine balance with the fruit as spearhead hits the palate, also vanilla now. A soft and fruity Clynelish with a medium finish. Water is not necessary but makes it a bit more spicy and interesting.

Score: 89

Laphroaig 20 y.o. SMWS 29.97, 10.1990 – 2011, Refill Sherry Butt, 608 btl., 59,1%

Comment: Tyrolian bacon and a red Passito, that’s what I would call it. Rooty peat, camphor, herbs, juniper, Stilton cheese, sulphur, dirty machine oil, and other unusual notes for a Laphroaig. The Sherry really changed the spirit to a great extent – into a profile not everybody likes (lost identity, lots of personality). The palate also is Sherry- and sulphur-dominated, gunpowder, roots, camphor, blue cheese again, not bad but different. It reminds me a bit of the 1974 Singatory Sherry bottling, but without the old Laphroaig characterstics. Really hard to judge…some will love this, some might call it flawed. I would have liked more Laphroaig in my glass but enjoyed the dram anyway.

Score 90+

Ardbeg 12 y.o. SMWS 33.97, 09.10.1997, Refill Bourbon Hogshead, 55,5%

Comment: Recent Ardbegs from the Society were convincing and this is not an exception. It is a textbook example of an Ardbeg of that particular time, a really well-balanced one again. More old than new style in the nose but on the palate you discover, among typical Ardbeg characteristics, the newer notes of eucalypt, methol and cactus that came into the distillate after 1996 in general. Green Ardbeg so to speak – with a great finish.

Score: 90+

Caol Ila 10y.o. SMWS 53.147, 11.1999, Refill Bourbon Hogshead, 66,6%

Comment: Very intense and herbal, big Islay power, flints, but it needs some drops of water to be tamed. No offnotes, simply great Caol Ila with depth. I recommend this for anyone who loves young South Coasters that do their job well.

Score: 91-

Port Charlotte 7 y.o. SMWS 127.11, 8.2003 – 2011, Refill Sherry Butt, 67,1%

Comment: Smells a bit like one of those PCs out of a Sherry Bloodtub, broodingly intense on rooty peat, camphor, herbs, tar, ox tail soup and Sherry. Blue cheese, dried flowers, moss, toffee, pepper and coffee complete the bouquet. You might not believe this, but it is drinkable at 67,1% without needing water. Anyway, it can swim too. The power on the mid-palate and the endless finish are ridiculous. Another stunner PC – how excellent will these monsters be with more maturity?

Score: 91+