Mortlach 9 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2004, Refill Hogshead, 46%

Comment: This pale and malty dram tastes exactly like a raw peppered steak with spinach on the side. We also got apricot and peach, morello cherry and sandalwood aromas. Steely Dram (sorry, Steely Dan!)

Score: 84

Longmorn 11 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2003 – 2014, Bourbon Barrel, 46%

Comment: Their best release so far! What a fruitbasket with incredible maturity after these years (it already displays dextrosity). Coconut, vanilla, pineapple, passion fruit, gooseberries, pear, lemons, elderflower combined with white chocolate, tinned milk, honeysuckle and toffee. Creamy and voluptuous mouthfeel, a sour-fruity and baroque Longmorn, Speyside goes Caribbean.

Score: 90

Glengoyne 7 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2007 – 2014, Refill Sherry, 46%

Comment: This dram is somewhat tragic because it has great potential but was bottled way too early (baby murder, so to speak) as it is very green, mashy and close to a new make. Nevertheless there is complexity and some weight already: apple compote, sour apple mash (like in a cider factory), autumnal flowers, kiwi, Haribo peach gums, honey, pistachio and candy floss – this would have been amazing some years in the future. Now it is interesting but not there yet.

Score: 76

Miltonduff 7 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2007 – 2014, Refill Butt, 46%

Comment: This one stands like a champion for its young age, especially on the palate. A wonderful sherry influence on a medium dry and flowery base. Don’t rush this Miltonduff! One can detect dried flowers, hay, blood oranges, bergamotte, lit sandwood sticks, tinned coffee cream, some oak and good acidity. The finish leaves you craving for more.

Score: 88

Auchroisk 12 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2001, Refill Hogshead, 46%

Comment: A very unsusual whisky, in parts it reminds me of mezcal (agave, white pepper) and steely gins (juniper). Quite dry and austere, lots of hay, celeriac, wet earth, chili, leather and peaches. Malt for Mexicans. Bring out the Mariachi.

Score: 80

Caol Ila 5 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2008 – 2014, Refill Hogshead, 414 btl., 46%

Comment: A typical and fresh Caol Ila that surprises me (only five years old) – peat, twig smoke, olive oil, juniper, lemon, chalk, mint, nettles, pepper and spice in the nose. Only the taste reveals its youth with greener elements ans some mash. Nice finish.

Score: 86

Laphroaig 11 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2002 – 2014, Refill Hogshead, 151 btl., 46%

Comment: It is one of these green-banana-like Laphs (like original bottlings these days, which often perform less good than indie bottlings), limestone, green tea, peat smoke and old port aromas. Some might love this more than I do. A solid Islay dram though.

Score: 86+

There also is a Talisker 6 y.o. from 2008 in the new range – it is not a green as one would think, already a typical maritime beach-BBQ dram, way better than Storm (86 points).

Old Pulteney OB 17 y.o., 46%

Comment: This is the younger brother of the „World’s Greatest Whisky 2012“ according to Jim Murray – my sample of the actual winner (21 y.o.) is under way, but I had the 21 at our stand in Munich two years ago, I scored it at ’90-‚ then. Not a bad dram at all, but it didn’t change my whisky world. Funny, not many people wanted to give it a try then. That might have changed by now.

Its younger brother at 17 years is equally as fine and very recommendable. The nose reveals Marshmallows, moss, berries (gooseberry, cassis), apricots, apples and passionfruit and seems nicely fresh. Flowery and smoky elements join in as well. I tastes like its nose and shows great roundness – an absolutely convincing dram!

Score: 89

Ardmore 18 y.o. Dewar Rattray 1992, 46,8%

Comment: Great Speyside elements mostly on hay and dried flowers and a lot of lemony notes meet just the right amount of smoke and peat that can be taken by the rather fragile distillate. Honey and ginger whiffs add to the mix. Two worlds colliding, not bad, but a bit mind-boggling.

Score: 87-

Arran 15 y.o., The Maltman 1996, Sauternes Cask, 46%

Comment: Donald Harts new series of independent bottlings has hit the markets. My first specimen of these drams is this Arran, a very creamy and fat dram, mostly built on primary notes. It might not be the most complex one, but it is darn good, especially when the Sauternes/Barsac sweet wine is talking (Chateau Climens Cask). A worthwhile Arran.

Score: 88+

Cooley 10 y.o. Dewar Rattray 2000, 46%

Comment: Very typical Irish Whiskey with a lot of class. Grass, vanilla, lemon, soft fruitiness and gummibears without any edges. Very smooth.

Score: 87+

Ben Nevis 13 y.o. Dewar Rattray 1996, Sherry Cask, 58,2%

Comment: Displays this wonderful Ben Nevis character made of forest floor notes, Curry, chocolate and so much more – my winner of that night because it is real Single Malt – no other distillery can produce drams like this. If you like Ben Nevis and cask strength, go for it.

Score: 90

Longmorn 30 y.o. G&M, 43% (bottled ca. 2009)

Comment: These old Sherry Cask Gordon & Macphail bottlings never disappoint. If only they were a bit stronger in abv… however, with some distilleries like Macallan or Strathisla it doesn’t matter, these whiskies already convince at 40% or 43%. This Longmorn is no exception, but it could have scored three points higher with a bit more intensity. I am getting Haribo ‚Saftbären‘ gummibears (again, sorry!) and fine well-integrated Sherry at first, also Cassis and loads of dark fruits – like a compote. The taste satisfies with berries, dusty books, dark wood and the notes from above in a round and sweet way and the right amount of bitterness in between. One for sipping all night.

Score: 90+

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