SMWS 35.219 Glen Moray 2003 ex-Chardonnay Barrique 14 y.o., 57,2%

This is a Germany-exclusive release, also titled and described in German – nice. And it is a winner that was chosen by a jury of German connoisseurs. A very „mortlachy“ Glen Moray, I must say because it has quite some smoke, a dry meaty and sulphury edge and metallic undertones. Old wood notes meet grapes, mango, Peach, orange zest, muesli box, ginger and chili, coal, pine needles and Aperol Sprizz. Funny and interesting nose on the dry and malty side of things. On the palate it Shows greatness, very round and flawless. Malt and spice-combo leads to honey sweetness, fruits and wine – like a watercolor painting that hints at things in a subtle way. It finishes long and metallic with all the aroma’s reminiscences glowing up shortly. Water makes it sweeter and sends the chilis to the fore. Quite a ride, like on Autobahn A3 in heavy traffic

Score: 88

SMWS 35.194 Glen Moray 2001 ex-Oloroso 1st-fill, 16 y.o., 59,8%

I am sure this release will find little common ground. I find it fungi-flawed like many of these casks that only display sulphury raisins, blue cheese and grapey sweetness – no distillery character and complexity. However, some love it exactly for this profile.

The nose is intact: rich and malty nose, dark honey, oak, pistachio, mash, hints of fruit (apricots and gooseberries), sulphury raisins, Spanish vinegar, ginger, chili and ginger, coal, eucalypt, chocolate Lebkuchen, not too bad. However, on the palate it displays the described flaw. Raisins, blue cheese, flinty sulphur. the spices save it a bit from being too monodimensional. Water also helps. I declare the discussion on this one as open…

Score 83

SMWS 35.204 Glen Moray 2001 ex-Bourbon/new oak, 16 y.o., 58,9%

This one is much less debatable. It has quite some wine character on the one side and wood spice on the other, almost bordering on Bourbon territory (yet smoother). Nuts, vanilla, cloves, maple syrup, salted caramel, honey, figs, dates, sulphury raisins, oranges and sweet tobacco big time. On the palate the sherry starts to speak more, with hints of the fungi-problem, but also juicy aromas. No water needed.

Score: 87

This was an interesting head-to-head comparison. Now I am glad to also try other releases as well.

SMWS 5.60 Auchentoshan 2000 ex-Bourbon/Oloroso, 16 y.o., 56,5%

The most surprising one in this set, it is beguiling. What a great cask! Very much like an older Glen Keith in moments. So creamy and full of Bourbon cask goodness, aaah! Mango on creme brûlée, coconut and pineapple meet Werthers Originals toffee, gooseberries, linden blossom honey, ripe pear, roses, orange zest, cinnamon hazelnut, amoroso sherry, calvados, vin santo, Bailoni Apricot liqueur sweetness, full on! All he way to the end this is powerful, complex and well-balanced. A clear buy!

Score: 89-90

SMWS 68.11 Blair Athol 2009 ex-Bourbon 7 y.o., 57,9% 

Forest Floor in late autumn, aromatic and fresh, then it becomes a sweet pasty like a cinnamon sticky bun with nuts, Marzipan fruitcake, honey-glaze and dessert wine. Water makes it even sweeter, one for afternoon tea parties.

Score: 87

SMWS 66.104 Ardmore 2008 ex-Bourbon 8 y.o., 60,1%

I love Ardmore at all ages. The younger ones don’t dissappoint but are a bit greener and sweeter than predecessors from the direct firing period of distillation. This one reminds me of a Bunnahabhain Moine in the nose. Like having a green tea on a frehsly tarred road near to an Islay distillery. Ashtray smokiness and aromatic peat, herbs, Aloe, juniper, metal, BBQ-sauce, mustard seed, ginger, apples, black pepper and chili – a powerhouse. On the palate it is way sweeter and more comlex as one would think. Everything tightly woven together like a Tsunami of peaty whisky goodness plus some iodine. So balanced and refined, you want another glass. Wow. Another recommendation!

Score: 88-89

SMWS 50.54 – 88 points (well made, nice sherry influence and fruitiness)

SMWS 59.50 – 88 points (acidity and big fruit in good balance)

SMWS 76.117 – 89+ points (reminds me of a 1970ies Laddie in moments, banana, tropical fruits, wine gum, berries, really nice but atypical for the distillery)

SMWS 123.8 – 83 points (young, garden fruit in an orchard, sherry aromas)

SMWS 127.39 – 89 points (deep, spicy, amazing, a big dram, yet mild)

SMWS 3.208 – 84 points (fwp in here, a flowery and ferny Bowmore with lilac perfume, you have to like this profile)

SWMS 3. 225 – 88 points (a bit sharp, spicy, but nice plums, sherry, typical, green elements)

SMWS 9.84 – 77 points (Mezcal, anyone? youngish and slightly off)

SMWS 4.186 – 89 points (mature and nice Highland Park)

SMWS 53.207 – 85 points (typical, but not special)

SMWS 7.85 – 85 points

SMWS 73.62 – 88 points (a great and dry Speyside Malt from a sherry cask)

SMWS 73.64 – 89 points (intense, brine, nice sherry influence, dates, figs, plums, maraschino, spices)

SMWS 35.101 – 89 points (mature, orchard, blue cheese, good dram, some wood is there but kept at bay, this has lots to tell)

SMWS 35.108 – 87 points (raisiny and modern sherry influence, gorse, a bit closed at first, tea, cigarette tobacco, smoke, fresh and better on palate)

SMWS 121.70 – 88 points (pistacio, honey, peaches, fresh and round, sweet and modern whisky)

SMWS 29.153 – 84 points (after so many great Laphs, this is too tame and a bit thin, not very complex, but good overall)

SMWS 29.157 – 89+ points (sherried, fresh and maritime, pine needle, sulphur, well balanced)

SMWS 48. 35 – 90 points (grapes, quince, peaches, vanilla, mature dram)

SMWS 2.89 – 88 points

SMWS 118.3 – 91 points (my favourite, an old Irish with amazing complexity, fruit intensity, cassis, berries, tea, spices,herbs, wine gum, all unusual but great … expensive though)

SMWS 66.51 – 90 points (deep, maritime, leather, spice, moss, nori, peat, iodine – nice)

SMWS 72.38 – 89 points (modern, peaches, toffee, oak, vanilla, tinned pears, citrus fruits, spices)

SMWS 93.59 – 91 points (mature, spicy, salty, discrete peat and smoke, iodine, gorse, beach BBQ, super)

Port Charlotte 9 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 127.15 ‚A jostling jingle-bag‘ 21.06.2002 – 2011, refill barrel, 256 btl., 65,9%

Comment: The ashtray itself, really, that is what it reminds me of at the first whiff. Ash and burnt tobacco rise from the glass with some sweet maltiness and peat embers in the back. Kippers, oysters, you name it. Very coastal, but a bit closed without water. It also tastes ashtray-like, way to hot, it has enormous teeth! Let’s tame it with H2O, lots of: Now we’re talking. Hints of caramel, mossy earth, lemon zest, Grand Marnier, heather, iron powder (like a nail), green banana skin and glue widen the range of aromas in this PC after dilution. It also tastes much better now and the finish is longer and more complex, it shifts into an Ardbeg-like direction (iodine, chocolate, etc.), the finish becomes quite amazing ind seductive, surprisingly. Still more on the brutal side and less refined though. Water is essential here, the key to unlock it. I would have called this dram ’nail in the ashtray‘. Not bad but there are much better versions out there.

Score: 86

Ardbeg 5 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 33.112 ‚Powerful, elegant and atmospheric‘ 20.12.2005 – 2011, 2nd-fill sherry butt, 252 btl., 60,8%

Comment: It doesn’t smell that young, quite a surpise. A rather typical Ardbeg on the mineral, green and farmyardy side again with nice citrus and Granny Smith apple notes. The peat, resin, smoke, burnt tires on hot tar, sulphur, iodine, discrete chalky oak from those refilled sherry casks (that go perfect with Ardbeg i.m.h.o.), mustard seed, chocolate, spinach and jet fuel aromas have some acidity to them. I am also getting sandy pebbles on the beach. Rather complex for such a youngster, not at all an alcohol-driven nose. The palate is a powerhouse, really punchy without being spicy or unpolished, no offnote here! What an Ardbeg! A monster without being rough. Long finish with big iodine, tires and soot! I used to say that Ardbeg takes some time to unfold, but this dram seems to be an exception. Impressive and very South Coast Islay. Water is not necessary but makes it more accessible to some fainter hearted natures.

Score: 90+

Ardbeg 11 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 33.115 ‚Man, that’s braw!‘ 31.08.1999 – 09.2011, refill sherry butt, 578 btl., 55,4%

Comment: This is less powerful and dryer than the 5 y.o. contender because the refill sherry cask has done a good  ‚rounding-off the edges-job‘ without being very obvious or sweet (unobtrusive in background) – a rather inactive cask like the one above has been used, but over 100% more time of ageing took place. There are nice white pepper and chili notes, eucalypt, nettles, pu-erh tea, plums, prunes, apples, peat, chalky oak, iodine, aromatic smoke and sulphur. Asian spices and chocolate join in on the palate with sherry traces and green tea – later plums and the peat-sulphur-iodine-combo. If the 112 is the mineral and fresh Riesling from Rheinhessen, this one is your typical Barossa Shiraz (in wine analogy terms speaking). I prefer the Riesling this time.

Score: 89

Clynelish 15 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society, SMWS 26.82, 8.1995 (Soft Light at Sunset), refill Sherry Butt, 571 btl., 57,9%

Comment: Fruit-oils, farmyardy tones and fresh coffee join the above already mentioned trademark aromas – with just the right amount of sherry fusion. Peaches and big vanilla become bolder with time and set this apart from many other Clynelish bottlings. Also, sandal wood scents, macadamia and some shy berries appear. Soft smoke and spices add to the fruitiness in nice balance. The taste, which encapsulates all the mentioned notes, is wrapped in a vanilla cloud and needs no water. Only hints of sherry can be found on the sweet palate. It is more a creamy crowd-pleaser, a bit like a Starbucks vanilla coffee drink. Nice, though.

Score: 89+

Clynelish 14 y.o. Single Cask Collection 14. 07. 1997 – 13.02.2012, refill Sherry Hogshead 6891, 302 btl., 56,8%

Comment: A sister cask (#6888) from Bladnoch’s warehouses with 158l was auctioned at Krüger’s for 2.305 Euro. I should have bid then, I was tempted, but didn’t go for it. At the current bottle price of almost 60 Euro it is worth almost 10k – nice gain! Darn! This also shows that there is a lot of cask swapping going on behind the scenes as it becomes harder to buy quality whisky from distilleries. Well, let’s not cry over by-gones and taste the neighboring cask 6891: Being darker in colour than the SMWS, this Austrian choice has more dark wood, leather and spice, but bears many resemblances to the SWMS-version in general (the basic character, coffee, farmyard) in the beginning. The sherry

Clynelish Sister Cask sold in Auction

evocates dried fruit (sultanas, dates, red grapes and cherries) and fruit cake aromas and renders more depth. But after a while these two drams depart from each other more and more. Milk chocolate, almonds and walnuts ride in, welcome guys. It is also slightly more on the dry and coastal side. On the palate, the dark and dried fruits dominate, but are countered by powerful spice (pepper, chili). Toffee and woody spices fight in a long  finish that never seems to end, really. Wow! With water this Clynelish becomes more civilized and creamy, not better or worse, just more approachable … and there is way more chocolate. Maybe not the most typical, but: this cask seems like the more mature and bolder brother of the two versions of today – with lots of character and some dark sides to it. Very good and very interesting.

Score: 91-

Aultmore 13 y.o. SMWS 73.41, 1997, 2nd-fill Bourbon Hogshead, 286 btl., 58,8%

Comment: Autumn fruits, many peaches, apricots, like homemade jam. Then I am getting hay, hints of  ginger, white pepper and vanilla. Seems more mature as its age would suggest. It tastes a bit more spicy (ginger, pepper again) with a bite and needs some water, but overall it renders the same profile like the nose and adds a nice maltiness, dried flowers and a licoricy touch. Almost creamy with more water, long finish. Aultmore keeps surprising me.

Score: 84

Mortlach 14 y.o. SMWS 76.79, 1995, first-fill Sherry Butt,  551 btl., 56,3%

Comment: Sherry, smoke and spice at first. The wine’s sweetness and the malt’s dry character battle in the nose. Some dried fruits, tea and white pepper are watching in the background. The typical raisins and sherry cream show up on the palate along with some spice, smoke and figs. Some water helps the balance.

Score: 83

Tullibardine 21 y.o. SMWS 28.23, 1989, Refill Sherry Butt, 57,7%

Comment: Unusual (plants, herbs), mature, fruity, malty, slightly dry with discrete spice. Big tea notes, toffee, pears, peaches, grass, flowers, earthy traces, altogether like a green house in the nose. It tastes more fruity than expected with a lot of natural caramel and vanilla, quite nice but not overly complex. One for gardeners and botanists

Score: 83

Caperdonich 16 y.o. SMWS 38.20, 1994, Refill Hogshead, 57,4%

Comment: Wow, I like this from the start. Very pleasant, deep and fresh. A bit from everything (citrus fruit, dextrose, moss, herbs and peat, minerality, honey, candyfloss, maritime freshness, etc.), which makes this a true allrounder. It delivers all this on the palate in beautiful balance! No water needed, this is simply great. Recommendation!

Score: 90

Glen Scotia 12 y.o. SMWS 93.46, 1999, Refill Sherry Gorda, 59,8%

Comment: Blue Cheese Dressing, leather, pepper and chili, sherry, grapes with noble rot, Kahlua, mint and leafs. The sherry is not really integrated and seems a bit too raisiny-rotten and cheesy, but the whisky is mild, sweet and creamy on the other hand. I know some people who like this profile but for me it is too much on primary notes of the sherry cask.

Score: 77

Auchentoshan 11y.o. SMWS 5.27, 1999, second-fill Bourbon Hoshead, 58,3%

Comment: Malt, lemon zest, hay, heather, licorice, vanilla, altogether not a very convincing dram.

Score: 77

Glen Moray 39 y.o. SMWS 35.55, 1971, Refill Hogshead, 50,3%

Comment: A whole lotta Bourbon wood influence, which is ok for an old whisky of this kind. All I miss is originality.

Score: 89+

Macallan 20 y.o. SMWS 24.117, 1990, first-fill Sherry Hogshead, 55,4%

Comment: This is a great Christmas Dram (yes, these notes are late ) and quite typical of a Macallan. Wonderful cigar smoke, orange peel, sweet malt, sherry, apple, raisins and cinnamon are its key elements.

Score: 89-

Scotch Grain Whisky 21 y.o. SMWS G-8.1, 1989, 51,2%

Comment: Very rum-like (which is not a bad thing) and loaded with vanilla, citrus aromas and marshmallows. I couldn’t find the exact grain distillery – soon to be revealed.

Score: 86

(Isle of) Jura 21 y.o. SMWS 31.22, 1988, second-fill Bourbon Hogshead, 56,5%

Comment: A very complex and creamy dram with beautiful spice-combo. It also offers sweet malt, ginger bread, licorice and Bourbon-Cask oak  character.

Score: 89+

Laphroaig 10 y.o. SMWS 29.101, 2000, refill-Sherry Butt, 587 btl., 52,8%

Comment: A weird Laph somehow, you have to like it extremely herbal (weeds) and dirty. Aside from the typical notes of peat, seaweed, rusty fishing-boats in the harbour and all that stuff you get sour and lemony aromas, quite some acidity, sherry and flinty sulphur in the nice finish. However, it lacks power in the middle. Not bad, but there are better ones out there.

Score: 86

Ardbeg 7 y,o, SMWS 33.101, 2003, first-fill Bourbon Cask, 245 btl., 59,6%

Comment: Typical Ardbeg, but not as interesting as other releases. A nice whisky anyway.

Score: 88+

Port Charlotte 8 y.o. SMWS 127.12, 2002, Bourbon Barrel, 160 btl., 66,3%

Comment: Funny, this one also heads towards ‚Ardbeginess‘ in some moments but it is saltier and more on camphor, rooty peat, flints and iodine. A great whisky at a young age – again. Look out for Port Charlotte.

Score: 89

Folgende Events und Tipps möchte ich Euch abschließend ans Herz legen:

1) Tasting-Gutscheine von slowdrink.de verschenken

Klickt einfach auf der Homepage auf den Reiter ‚Zum Verschenken‘ – unsere ansprechend gestalteten Tastinggutscheine mit Samples zur Vorfreude sind immer sehr beliebte und originelle Präsente.

2) Whiskyverkostung in Regensburg zusammen mit dem Irish Pub ‚Murphy’s Law‘

Am kommenden Sonntag, den 11. Dezember 2011 um ca. 19.00 – 21.30 Uhr werden wir eine Whiskyverkostung im Murphy’s Law (Spiegelgasse, Regensburger Altstadt) haben. Kultwirt Mike freut sich schon auf uns und wird an diesem vorweihnachtlichen Sonntag auch ein paar Drams mit uns genießen, ich moderiere dort. Das Line-up wird Gefallen finden:

1.  Warm-up Dram (slightly sherried Speysider, gut zum Einsteigen)
2. Auchentoshan 1975 OB, 21 y.o. (exzellente Rarität in cask strength, Kult und ehemaliger Tasting-Winner)
3. Royal Brackla 25 y.o. gereift im Fino Sherry Fass (sehr ausgewogener Highland Malt, absolute Allround-Qualität, ehem. Tasting-Winner)
4. Glenglassaugh 1983 – 2011 OB for Germany 28 y.o., matured in Sherry, finished in Sauternes Cask (ganz neu, cask strength und oberklasse)
5. Glendronach OB 12 y.o. Sherry Wood from 1970ies for Previ Import (Italien) (sehr dunkle Sherry Malt-Rarität, die immer teurer wird, weil sie so lecker ist: ehem. Tasting-Gewinner)
6. Bowmore OB Tempest (Batch 2) 10 y.o. aus first-fill Bourbon Casks (ein tropenfruchtig-torfiger Islay Malt, typische Bowmore-Balance, richtig gut und in Cask Strength)
7. Laphroaig only for Clubs (slowdrink.de/Nürnberg) 1998 aus Sherry Cask in Cask Strength, 90 Punkte bei Serge Valentin

Preis: Nur 30.- Euro (Selbstkostenpreis, aber keine slowdrink.de-Veranstaltung, ein Partner-Event)

Anmeldung: Im Murphy’s Law in Regensburg oder per Telefon (Pub an 18:00 Uhr : 0941-53295; oder Mike: 0160-7828736)

Bei diesem Tasting solltet Ihr schnell sein, die Liste de Anmeldungen wird voller.

3) R(h)um probieren in der Markthalle Regensburg

Unsere Freunde von Wein&Mehr laden Euch zum Probieren einiger R(h)umsorten ein! Ich selbst habe mich dort schon orientiert und war begeistert – nicht verpassen, die Aktion endet in Kürze. Diese Top-R(h)ums sind auch gute Weihnachtsgeschenke -ggf. für einen selbst . Kommt einfach zum Wein&Mehr-Shop in der Regensburger Markthalle (Dachauer Platz). Es lohnt sich!

4) Whisky-Tasting im Männerladen (Landshut)

Auf ein Neues – dies ist der zweite Anlauf, da unsere Planung beim ersten Mal zu kurzfristig war, weshalb sich zu wenige Anmeldungen ergaben. Als neuen Termin haben wir einen Samstag ins Auge gefasst, um das Gewölbe im  Männerladen einzuweihen. Das von mir moderierte Tasting findet am 21. Januar um 19.00 Uhr statt (Voranmeldung, Männerladen, Altstadt 18 – 20, Landshut). Ich habe ein Line-up zusammengestellt, bei dem für jeden Whiskyfreund etwas dabei sein wird (verschiedene Regionen, Alter, Fassreifungen, etc., fast nur Einzelfass-Whiskys).

Hier die Verkostungsliste mit ein paar echten Highlights und noch geheimen, nicht gelisteten Überraschungen:

1. Highland Park (Orkney) 16 years old, 1994 – 2010,
   Ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 54,6%
2. Mortlach 18 y.o., 1993 – 2011,
   Ex-Sherry Butt, 57,2%
3. Miltonduff (Elgin) 13 y.o., 1998 – 2011,
   Sherry Hogshead No. 3619, 59,9%
4. Braes of Glenlivet (Elgin) 21 y.o., 1989 – 2011,
   Hogshead Nr. 1030, 54,7%
5. Glenglassaugh (Portsoy) 28 y.o., 1983,
   Refill-Sherry Butt finished in a fresh Sauternes Cask, 49,6%
6. Bunnahabhain 24 y.o., 1986 – 2010, Sherry Butt 1282, 53,8%
7. Islay Edition No.1 (Bowmore, Islay) 13 y.o.,
   Limited to 3 casks, 46%
8. Laphroaig 14 y.o. (Islay), 1997 – 2011, Bourbon Hogshead, 43,3%

Unkostenbeitrag: 39.- Euro

Anmeldung: Im Männerladen (persönlich, telefonisch unter 0871-29475 oder unter folgender Mail-Adresse: info@maennerladen.de)

Ich denke, das Dabeisein ist Pflicht – für diesen geringen Preis wird da großes Whiskykino geboten. Aber beeilen, die Plätze sind limitiert! Anmerkung: Nicht kombinierbar mit einem Slowdrink-Gutschein, da es ein Partner-Event ist.

5) Interesse an einer edlen R(h)um-Verkostung in München?

Schon lange planen wir einen Rumabend, denn diese Spirituose steht den Single Malts in Komplexität und Vielseitigkeit kaum nach. Dennoch fristet sie in unseren Breiten ein Schattendasein. Bei diesem Tasting mit Spitzendestillaten würde ich Euch gern überzeugen, dass dem R(h)um Unrecht wiederfährt.

Wer daran Interesse hätte, soll uns unter info@slowdrink.de mailen. Je nach Feedback steigt die Sache. Hier mein Lineup-Vorschlag für den niveauvollen Einstieg in die wunderbare Welt des R(h)ums (Alternativen möglich und zahlreich vorhanden):

1. Ron Malteco ‚Anejo Suave‘ 10 y.o. (Guatemala)

2. Santa Teresa ‚1796‘ Ron Antiguo de Solera 15 y.o. (Venezuela)

3. Rhum Barbancourt ‚Reserve du  Domaine‘ 15 y.o. (Haiti)

4. Ron Zacapa Centenario ‚Etiqueta Negra‘ Sistema Solera 23 y.o. (Guatemala)

5. Riviere du Mat Rhum ‚Grande Reserve‘ (La Reunion)

6. Ron Centenario ’30 Anos‘ Edicion Limitada (Costa Rica)

7. HSE (Habitation Saint-Etienne) ‚XO‘ Rhum Extra Vieux Agricole (Martinique)

8. Rhum J.M ‚Cuvee du Fondateur‘ Rhum Vieux Agricole Hors d’Age (Martinique)

9. Port Mourant 33 y.o., 1975-2008, ‚Full Proof‘ Old Demerara Rum (Guyana)

10. … Evtl eine Überraschung …

Kosten: Nur ca. 30.- Euro

Bitte schreibt uns zahlreich, denn R(h)um macht mächtig Spaß und bietet auch kostengünstige Alternativen zu so manchem Malt.

6) SMWS-Verkostung bei Munich-Spirits

Zuletzt würde ich gerne auf einen Single Malt-Abend mit unserem Freund Ralf Dänzer, dem Scotch Malt Whisky Society-Vertreter im Süden, hinweisen. Alle Daten zur Anmeldung für den 28. Januar 2011 findet Ihr bei: www.munich-spirits.de

Wir freuen uns von Euch zu hören und wünschen ein frohes Fest und einen guten Rutsch,

Euer slowdrink.de-Team.

Glen Grant 1972 – 2011 The Whisky Agency ‚Private Stock‘, Sherry Hogshead, 87 btl., 51,4%

Comment: Very mature and fruity at first (ripe regional of all kind as well as tropical), vanilla, honey and toffee, also a complex spicy counterpart (Asian spices, ginger and white pepper) to avoid boredom, wonderful oak wood, ashes, all is well-balanced. Later, milk coffee, marshmallows, apricot jam, lemon zest and hazelnuts join the mix. The Sherry is really unobtrusive and perectly integrated. On the palate, the ‚dried fruit brigade‘ takes no prisoners with a slightly dry and intense attack with a lot of tannic wood and honey, but the other aromas are in the background. High class all the way, especially when the long finish starts to hum its fruity tune accompanied by neat white oak.

Score: 91-

Springbank 10 y.o. SMWS 27.87, 2000 – 2011, Sherry Hogshead, 54,4%

Comment: Surprise! Really much better than expected. I am getting a salty and nutty coastal aroma with well-integrated Sherry, that isn’t hiding at all. Hence we got pleasant dark fruits of all kind and a peppery spiciness from the wood with tiny bitterness. There also are peaty tones, ham, coconut, cookies and coffee detectable. High class and complexity like in the old days. No joke! Where did they find this cask? On the palate and in the finish, the intensity and joy continues in the same way and takes up a little farmyardiness too, but the creaminess of the old style is not fully there – but that would be a task too hard for any malt these days. This is a stunner not to be missed. Forget the numbers, which might not convince you to buy a bottle, go for the taste of this big malt. I hope there will come more Springers like that in the future.

Score: 90+

Tomorrow the German chapter of the Scotch Malt Whisky Society will present their new releases for Christmas time. Our friend Ralf Dänzer and I don’t want you to find any bad drams underneath the X-mas tree – that’s why he sent me some samples via the reindeer express yesterday. Blitzen looked kind of hammered, maybe it tried from the Port Charlotte .

As the most-wanted-distillery bottlings sell out quickly, I tasted them right away to give you a notion. Good luck in filling your stockings with these releases. I couldn’t find a bad one yet.

Highland Park 26 y.o. SMWS 4.151, 1984, Refill Sherry Butt, 53%

Comment: Quite spicy in the nose at first, the Sherry is talking loud and clearly,  then it smoothens out with maritime freshness and gets much rounder. Soft smoke, honey, Turkish delight, apples and cider, peaches, Werthers Original toffee, café au lait, nice dark wood and a spicy backbone of white pepper and chili. Nice but incomparable to the amazing palate. It drinks beautifully and is a dream of balance that still has power, the Sherry is well-integrated, heavy and light at the same time. Water makes it creamier and more accessible. Long finish.

Score: 90

Clynelish 25 y.o. SMWS 26.71, 1984 – 2010, Refill Sherry Butt, 57,3%

Comment: Very typical Clynelish (apples, candlewax, tropical fruit, quince, maritime air with a hint of peat smoke and all that jazz) in the nose. A fine balance with the fruit as spearhead hits the palate, also vanilla now. A soft and fruity Clynelish with a medium finish. Water is not necessary but makes it a bit more spicy and interesting.

Score: 89

Laphroaig 20 y.o. SMWS 29.97, 10.1990 – 2011, Refill Sherry Butt, 608 btl., 59,1%

Comment: Tyrolian bacon and a red Passito, that’s what I would call it. Rooty peat, camphor, herbs, juniper, Stilton cheese, sulphur, dirty machine oil, and other unusual notes for a Laphroaig. The Sherry really changed the spirit to a great extent – into a profile not everybody likes (lost identity, lots of personality). The palate also is Sherry- and sulphur-dominated, gunpowder, roots, camphor, blue cheese again, not bad but different. It reminds me a bit of the 1974 Singatory Sherry bottling, but without the old Laphroaig characterstics. Really hard to judge…some will love this, some might call it flawed. I would have liked more Laphroaig in my glass but enjoyed the dram anyway.

Score 90+

Ardbeg 12 y.o. SMWS 33.97, 09.10.1997, Refill Bourbon Hogshead, 55,5%

Comment: Recent Ardbegs from the Society were convincing and this is not an exception. It is a textbook example of an Ardbeg of that particular time, a really well-balanced one again. More old than new style in the nose but on the palate you discover, among typical Ardbeg characteristics, the newer notes of eucalypt, methol and cactus that came into the distillate after 1996 in general. Green Ardbeg so to speak – with a great finish.

Score: 90+

Caol Ila 10y.o. SMWS 53.147, 11.1999, Refill Bourbon Hogshead, 66,6%

Comment: Very intense and herbal, big Islay power, flints, but it needs some drops of water to be tamed. No offnotes, simply great Caol Ila with depth. I recommend this for anyone who loves young South Coasters that do their job well.

Score: 91-

Port Charlotte 7 y.o. SMWS 127.11, 8.2003 – 2011, Refill Sherry Butt, 67,1%

Comment: Smells a bit like one of those PCs out of a Sherry Bloodtub, broodingly intense on rooty peat, camphor, herbs, tar, ox tail soup and Sherry. Blue cheese, dried flowers, moss, toffee, pepper and coffee complete the bouquet. You might not believe this, but it is drinkable at 67,1% without needing water. Anyway, it can swim too. The power on the mid-palate and the endless finish are ridiculous. Another stunner PC – how excellent will these monsters be with more maturity?

Score: 91+

Balmenach 22 y.o. / 1988 SMWS 48.24, Refill Bourbon Hogshead, 49,3%

Comment: Very fruity (green apples, pineapple, lemon zest) and mature in the nose, kept at bay by some spice (white pepper) and wonderful white oak influences (vanilla, caramel, wood, charcoal). On the palate it bursts even more with  fruits (local and tropical) and displays a honey-infused sweetness, herbs and roses in addition – this has really been stored in a good Bourbon cask (refill?). No water needed, but this is a swimmer indeed.

Score: 89+

Glenturret 22 y.o. / 1988 SMWS 16.30, 2nd-fill Bourbon Hogshead, 51,6%

Comment: Highly unusual, not to say weird in the nose, but not at all unpleasant. Cheese roll with pickle, berry liqueur, Amarena cherry sauce from Italy (Maraschino and Morello), heather, dandelions, moss, creme brulee, honey, white dessert wine (Riesling Auslese or Passito), wet socks after a walk in the woods. The palate is a tightly-knit mix of the notes above, concentrating on moss, berries and wine, but also wonderfully mineral. Awesome, seems older than 22 years. What a cristalline fruitiness that resembles dextrose! No water, please! The finish juggles with all these aromas at great length. This ranks among the best Glenturrets I had. It has a unique character, perfect maturity and a satisfying taste that makes you beg for another glass. STUNNER!

Score: 91

Glenrothes 20 y.o. / 1990 SMWS 30.63, Refill Sherry Butt, 55,8%

Comment: Sweet and christmas-cakey (or the German ‚Christstollen mit Marzipan‘). Tea, peat and Sherry, lots of raisins (too dominating), plums, maraschino cherries, orange zest, rubber, sugared nuts and marzipan complete the nose – this is perfect for the advent or X-mas coffee table. Later some tobacco and figs emerge from the glass. The sweetness in the mouth is overwhelming and a bit monodimensional (raisins again), but we have a long finish on the same notes and noble rot on dark grapes. Unfortunately, the palate couldn’t hold the promises of the nose. Not bad, but you have to like the rubber-raisiny Sherry profile mainly on primary notes, which can be really persistent.

Score: 86

Glen Albyn 31 y.o. / 1979 SMWS 69.14, Refill Sherry Butt, 56,3%

Comment: Herbal at first, licorice and honey, loads of flowers, lemons, orange peel, plums, kraut salad with black cumin, Sushi roll in Nori, whiffs of peat, old gardening earth, Chinese roasted duck and kola nut. A little water helps opening the complex elixir. Slightly dry arrival on the palate, rather light, oak, flowers, gentle peat, honey and herbs lead into an earthy finish with echoes of the nose and some ginger. The nose was better than the rest. Nevertheless, this is an enjoyable dram in the classic light but complex style without lots of ‚in-your-face‘ wood influence.

Score: 88+

Auchentoshan 11 y.o. / 1999 SMWS 5.29, 60,6%

Kommentar:
Apfel und Birne, Holzkohle, Heu und Trockenblumen, grünes Malz, Vanille; im Geschmack recht scharf, auch viel Wasser hilft da nicht.

Bewertung: 77

Glenmorangie 18 y.o. / 1992 SMWS 125.39, 55,7%

Kommentar:
Voll, süß, tropisch reif, sehr deutliches Bourbon Cask, dezenter Rauch, Vanille, Toffee, Nelke, Pfirsich; im Geschmack ein Grenzgang zwischen reifem Single Malt und Bourbon, aber man muss schon ein Bourbon-Freak sein, in dieser Richtung extrem: dennoch klasse.

Bewertung: 90

Mortlach 20 y.o. / 1989 SMWS 76.75, first-fill Sherry, 58,8%

Kommentar:
Überraschend maritim und rau, recht torfig für einen Mortlach, Leder, Pflaumen und Datteln, Spur Schwefel; die Rosinen treten im Geschmack wieder in den Vordergrund, dennoch eine gelungene Abwechslung zu den sonstigen eindimensionalen Rosinenbombern, dazu gute Würze, Moos.

Bewertung: 88

Bowmore 16 y.o. / 1994 SMWS 3.169, Refill Sherry Butt, 56,6%

Kommentar:
Bowmore auf dem Bauernhof: starke Noten von Heu und Mist, Harnsäure, Torf, Schwefel, dazu Zitronen-Aromen und Cappuccino – was für ein wilder Mix! Im Geschmack kommen Noten einer Dampflok auf, Jod, Trafobrand, Farn, Schwefel, viel deutlicher Islay als Bowmore früher war. Was für Leute, die klare Islay-Power mögen, die klassische Bowmore-Mitte mit Balance fehlt hier.

Bewertung: 89

Ardbeg 8 y.o. / 2001 SMWS 33.92, 57,5%

Kommentar:
Ardbeg, wie ich ihn mag: sehr klassisch im Stil, keine Offnote, richtig gelungen. Tipp!

Bewertung: 90

Aultmore 28 y.o. / 1982 SMWS 73.39, Refill Sherry Butt, 55,4%

Kommentar:
Obstig, reif, braucht Wasser zur Öffnung; Pfirsich; Geschmacklich sehr ausgewogen und reif, komplexe Frucht und feine Bourbon-Weißeiche, florale Noten, Vanille. Tipp!

Bewertung: 90

Glen Moray 10 y.o. / 2000 SMWS 35.48, 59,3%

Kommentar:
Apfel, Birne, Rauch, Vanille, Passionsfrucht, Brennnessel, Bärlauch und weitere Anteile an Kräuterlikör (jedoch erst nach Wasserzugabe); im Geschmack tropische Frucht in schwermütigem Charakter (Dose), Eiche und Vanille.

Bewertung: 89

Linkwood 27 y.o. / 1982 SMWS 39.78, 55,1%

Kommentar:
Heu, Rauch, Holundersirup, Beeren, Heidehonig, viel Komplexität, die im Geschmack mit voller Kraft auftritt: wow! Beeren und Frucht ohne zu viel Holzeinfluss bringen den Trinker in Verzückung. Tipp!

Bewertung: 91

Benrinnes 13 y.o. / 1996 SMWS 36.51, 61,9%

Kommentar:
Kräuter, heimisches Obst, Mandarine und deren Schale, Kondensmilch, Spur Kaffee, Honig; Im Geschmack dominiert das trockene Milieu mit Heu und Trockenblumen, Lakritz und Vanille – ein typischer Speysider.

Bewertung: 87

Port Charlotte 6 y.o / 2003 SMWS 127.6, 65,2%

Kommentar:
Es übermannt einen sofort der typische Kräuter-Torf-Jod-Mix dieses Destillats. Auch Kreide, Pflaume und Zitronensäure sind riechbar. Im Geschmack setzen sich der moosige Torf, Schwefel und Jod durch, im Hintergrund verweilen Sattelfett, Wurzeln und Cola. Trotz der Fassstärke keine Verdünnung notwendig. Tipp!

Bewertung: 92

Mortlach SMWS 76.78 ‚Foamy bananas dipped in cayenne pepper‘, 15 y.o., July 1995, first fill Sherry Butt, 625 bottles, 55,8%

Nose: Quite alcoholic at first, then a nice mix unfolds – rum-raisins and vanilla ice cream, a touch of Marsala wine, chili and black pepper add to a slight woody spiciness, dry but not overwhelming Sherry-influence, buttered toast, apples and peaches. One can already smell that this dram needs water.

Palate: Surprisingly elegant with some water (necessary): Apples pave the way to a medium-sweet and creamy mouthfeel with maltiness and smoke.

Finish: Rum-Raisins with Marsala and Sherry are counterbalanced by nice warm oaky notes.

Score: 89

Comment: Much more complex than many other mono-dimensional raisin drams by Mortlach of that time.

Bowmore SMWS 3.175 ‚On the dunes – watching a puffer‘, 16 y.o., April 1994, refill Sherry Butt, 572 bottles, 56%

Nose: Like many great Bowmores, the nose is perfectly balanced between Islay roughness and the complexity this distillery brings to the table. The Sherry is well-integrated and fits the combo. Leafy ferns (typical for Bowmore once) and herbs, fresh sea spray and ozone, Chesterfield couch in mahogani room, remotely lemony and exotic fruitiness, sweet cherries as well,humidor and Asian spices.

Palate: Drinkable with or without water; stays high class all the way through, all notes above woven together. The Sherry adds such a wonderful  and discrete sweet dimension with many tertiary aromas.

Finish: Waving the Bowmore flag proudly. A noble dram with a nice hint of sulphur like from old fired children’s guns (red stripe) at carnival.

Score: 91

Comment: A must-have at a reasonable price!

Ardbeg SMWS 33.96 ‚Chocolate Caviar‘, August 1996, refill Sherry Butt, 668 bottles, 56,9%

Nose: A powerhouse of a nose: Clearly Ardbeg! The infernal trio of peat, sulphur and iodine is accompanied by burnt tires, a bit of resin, leather, white pepper, celp, lemon and orange zests, espresso, milk chocolate and chalk – plus the well integrated Sherry tones (plum cake) from the Refill Butt.

Palate: No water needed; The taste is the one of older Ardbeg before the takeover in 1997. Not as complex as the nose suggested

Finish:  A harmonic finish with iodine, chocolate, peat and sulphur.

Score: 90

Comment: Really good Ardbeg, but doesn’t fully live up to its nose.

Port Charlotte SMWS 127.7 ‚A sense of elemental freedom‘, 7 y.o., August 2003, refill Sherry Butt, 687 bottles, 66,6%

Nose: Another monster of a nose – deep rooty peat and herbal notes, beef jerky, Maggi, Sherry, pine branches in a beach fire with resinous smoke, oil and tar, black pepper, Sicilian-style- roasted coffee beans, touch of Jägermeister – all rather raw and untamed.

Palate: At 66.6% this is diabolic and becomes better with water, but one can sip it pure as well. Really smoky and dry with a slight herbal bitterness and the aromas of the nose.

Finish: Stays untamed and true to itself. An outdoor barbecue dram that takes no prisoners.

Score: 87

Comment: One has to like it raw, I would love to try this mustang in its older and more mature days…

Since the Scotch Malt Whisky Society has been taken over, I was in the lucky position to try most of their releases. Our partner Ralf Dänzer (www.smws-süd.de) does a wonderful job in selecting and promoting the whiskies. In general, they are above average, and some are top class. Make sure you are fast to get hold of a bottle. The SMWS lowered the member fees a lot. I really recommend to become a member nowadays. It is worth it. Another recommendation: Ralf offers samples of recent bottlings to try before you buy!

If you are interested in previous reviews (German), click here:

http://www.smws-süd.de/downloads/201104smwsverkostungfruehlingsliste.pdf

In this series, I would like to review some recent bottlings (only the first one in German, tomorrow, the ratings will be in English). My highlight of the ‚Summer Series“ was an Ardbeg (and I am not a comlete nut for post-1997-Ardbegs), a real stunner:

Ardbeg SMWS 33.93 ‚Tarry peppermint tea‘ 10 y.o., 8.1998 – 6.2011, Refill Sherry Butt, 626 bottles, 55,9%

More reviews in English all the way from tomorrow on…

same outfit, but 33.93

Nose:

Mächtig Gummireifen, Torf und Jod beim ersten Riechen; dahinter Kräuter, Pfeffer, gegerbtes Leder, Holzkohle, Harz, Teer, Moor, Zitronenschale, Salzlake, Nelken, ein Hauch Schwefel  und Spuren der ab 1997 auftretenden ätherischen Minze. Wahrlich komplex!

Geschmack:

Trotz großer Kraft recht ausgewogen, obige Aromen und Pfefferminzteenoten erscheinen in dichter Verbindung, ohne jede Offnote. Ein klasse Ardbeg!

Abgang:

Lang, jodig-torfig, wärmend wie Holzkohleglut, die dezente Sherrynote ist hier deutlicher, sie verbindet die vielen obigen Elemente optimal im Abgang; gegen

Ende setzt sich eine herrliche Knallpistolenschwefelnote durch: einer der Besten seit der Glenmorangie-Übernahme, genau mein Ding!

Punkte: 92/100

Summary: A real iodine-sulphur-peat-beast that reminds me of earlier bottlings. Very well balanced yet powerful. We put this one into our line-up of the Regensburger Whisky Walk 2011 because it rocked our world!