Kommentar: Glen Keith ist in meinen Augen ein Geheimtipp, kaum ein anderer Malt liebt gute Bourbonfässer mehr im Ausbau. So ab 20 Jahren werden diese Speysider daher zu einem Fest. Diese Version hätte auf dem Papier alle Merkmale (evtl. aber recht reduziert in Stärke), kann er halten was er verspricht? Die Ananas und deutliche Weißeichenaromen mit Würze springen einen sofort an, dazu gesellen sich Sternfrucht, Kiwi, Passionsfrucht, Blütenhonig auf Toast, Zitronentee, Ingwer und Vanille, ja sogar Erdbeeren mit Sahne – die Holz- und Ingwerwürze arbeitet stets mit und gibt der Frucht kontra, später meine ich auch Ahornsirup und Harz wahrzunehmen: wie erwartet ein Spiegel des guten Bourbonfasses auf schottische Art. Am Gaumen tritt er zunächst bitterholzig an, dann entfalten sich aber die Früchte in einem langen Bogen. Der Abgang entspricht einem Pfauenrad der genannten Elemente, aber das helle Holz hat die Führungsrolle: For cask lickers like me !

Bewertung: 88-89

Fine Blended Malt Whisky 24 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1993 – 2018, Sherry Hogshead, 54,3%

Kommentar: Jens‘ letzte Blended-Batches haben mich stets überzeugt, sie wurden teils schon als Jungdestillate vereint. Bei diesem weiß ich die Hintergrundstory nicht, habe aber Gutes in Sachen Qualität gehört. Er tritt mit trockener und klarer Sherrynote an, alte dunkle Fässer, Bitterschokolade und die Schoko-Lebkuchen-Herzen mit Kirschfüllung (Maraschino und Cocktail), Orangeat, Pflaumen, rote Trauben, alte Rosinen mit Staub, Dinkelkeks, schwarzer Pfeffer, Kaffeebohne und Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte. Und so schmeckt er auch in genau der richtigen Intensität und Balance, zwar leicht trocken, aber mit genug Fruchtsüße hinten raus (Kirsche!), um diesen Stoff richtig geil zu finden! Man will sofort mehr davon. @Jens: send rüber, mein Zeuch, love it!

Bewertung: 90

Blended Malt ‚very old‘ Whisky-Fässle bottled 2016, sherry butt, 45,4%

Comment: Loved the last one, hope this can keep up. The nose reveals dry sherry wood, garden fruit and exotic fruit (esp. pineapple), cocoa, ginger, pepper, licorice, resin and soaked gingerbread cake (if that exists). On the palate it shifts into higher gear, really impressive and classic in style. Old polished sherry malt style that reminds me oft he biggest names in Speyside with a hint of Orkney. Juicy stuff that keeps you sipping because the finfish is soooo classy.

Score: 90

Cragganmore 27 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1989 – 2016, sherry butt, 48,7%

Comment: This one is adored by quite some friends and I also find Cragganmore underrated but not all bottlings of this herbal malt are great. This specimen is the Amaro (an Italian Bitter) among Craggies, herbal healing. It also reminds me of a walk in the forest with a basket of apples and a flower bouquet. I also has nutty elements (even pistacchio), beech leafs, bark, nettles, green tea, honey, agave (yes, it has tequila-esque moments), yuzu and orange zest. The palate is mature and unusual, great old oak, sherry-style, yet teaish green, wow. Orange, apples, apricots, licorice, vanilla and fallen leafs. A long finish rewards the drinker. Different and hard to score, maybe I am at the low end of this one.

Score: 89 (some might go higher here)

Fine Tennessee Whiskey 5y.o. Whisky-Fässle 2011 – 2016, barrel, 51,4%

Comment: Clearly a Dickel from Tullahoma (I lived close many years ago) with rye in the mash bill. Complex sweet oak elements meet maple syrup, nuts and marzipan. Very more-ish.

Score: 88

Caol Ila 10 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 2006 – 2017,for Whisky Klubben Maltes Vänner hogshead, 53,6%

Comment: My favourite from this batch – which I wouldn’t have expected from the sheer facts on the label. This is so pure, clean and spirit-driven, it hurts. Classic profile with juniper, olive oil, moss, coal gas, big lemon drop, green apples, gunpowder tea, soot and ashes along with peat, resin and tar. The palate is powerful and very well-balanced. Expressive purity! Amazing spirit. Islay holiday at the first sip.

Score: 90

Mannochmore 28 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1988 – 2016, hogshead, 46,0%

Comment: Another cool pick, I must say. Wonderfully old-school with a metallic edge. I am getting leather, peaches and stone fruits, orange zest, quince, lemons. Behind that there are nougat whiffs, mild chili and slightly bitter old oak elements that fit very well. It tastes very complex and much fruitier than expected. It is an example of a solid and complete malt.

Score: 90

Irish Single Malt ‚extra old‘ Whisky-Fässle, bottled 2016, Barrel, 50,6%

Comment: Tropical fruits, of course (guava, apricot, pink grapefruit, mango, passion fruit), but not uber-fruity yet (probably still slightly below 20 y., maybe a mix). Vanilla, white chocolate, wine gums. It also possesses a malty backbone with discrete spiciness (ginger, chili) and some green elements. Good drop of the Irish!

Score: 89

Mannochmore 28 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1988 – 2016, Hogshead, 46%

Comment: Expressive, a character of a malt with beautiful garden fruits (Cox apples, quinces, apricots, pomegranate), nuts, honey, floral elements, marshmallows, leather, vanilla, ginger and a trace of maritime air. On the palate it becomes maltier and more floral with loads of nuts and dark fruit. Somehow, blue cheese takes it over, very cool! Aaah, complexity and uniqueness.

Score: 90

Benrinnes 18 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1997 – 2016, Hogshead, 52,2%

Orchard fruits (yeah, loads of apples, pears apricots, bitter oranges, cristallized mangos with saffron, traces of banana and pineapples, a fruit fly’s paradise and whiffs of a juicy fruit gum), malt, licorice, ginger, almond milk with vanilla sugar, tonka beans, freshly cleaned mahogani cupboard, quite some wood smoke, ozone and coal gas freshness. Grassy, malty and slightly nutty (pistachio) on the palate at first, then the fruit and caramel/vanilla take center stage. With a really nice and long finsh. 89.

Fine Lowland Grain (Girvan) 52 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1964 – 2016, Barrel, 47,7%

Dinosaur! Typical of such old grains, it changes between the categories of rum, bourbon and scotch all the time, rollercoaster. What a deep nose, like the finest rum aged for over 30 years in Caribbean climate. However, the vodka-esque graininess is still there as well as vanilla and caramel. Green tea, muscovado sweetness and ripe tropical fruits, coconut oil, spinach, undergrowth and bublegum. The oak and spicy elements never overwhelm, this is still somewhat spirit-driven after all these years. A must-have for maltsters and rumheads alike. 91.

Fine Blended Malt of various very old vintages for Whisky-Fässle, bottled 2016, Sherry Butt, 45,2%

The nose reveals canned milk, ginger bread, very Speysidey in its esters, vanilla, green tea, and mostly: plum cake with cinnamon and whipped cream on top (Zwetschgendatschi)! Then nettles. It becomes dusty with old-style class in moments, some sherry rounds it off discretly. The palate is so well organized, very classy again and totally my style. Some won’t get this eöegance, but if you are into old drams that are not overloaded with primary aromas, this is your choice – and mine. Balance king, no offnote, dangerously drinkable. LOVE it. Great price-performance ratio – Jens, you Swabian wizard of quality. 91.

Glenrothes 19 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1997 – 2016, Sherry Butt, 51,8%

Wonderful resistance of the great Glenrothes distillery character (a favourite of blend masters) that stands up to heaviest sherry fire. Like a Glendronach in moments, but juicier. Dark fruits (but not only raisins like with treated cask aromas), ginger bread hearts with cherry jam filling, jaffa cake (orange meets chocolate on a sponge cake), geranium flowerpot earth with some petals, morello marvel. The palate is a good combination of bone dry vs. juicy sherry, the dry character wins in the end. A really nice sherry monster with some distillery character preserved. 90+.

Barbancourt 12 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 2004 – 2016, Bourbon Barrel, 51,9% (Rhum from Haiti)

Very much like the 15 y.o. original version (which is adorable and helps many good people in Haiti to survive), but with more depth and power. However, the bourbon wood is louder than I would have liked it (vanilla),  but some are exactly looking for that. Very soft, balanced and slightly earty – plus licorice. This Haitian Agricole is an interesting alternative to Martinique or Guadeloupe. Try it. 89.

Epris 17 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1999 – 2016, Barrel, 45,6% (Rum from Brazil)

Never had this distillery before, mybe once with a Cadenhead Brazilian bottling – wow, very different: rotten limes, green tea and rose hip touch, mint, orange zest. It tastes almost like a spiced rum, really funky stuff on the freestyle edge, you have to like this, but it has personality. The finish has menthol, rotten oranges, and many weird but somehow interesting elements. It grows on you if you are open to new styles. 87.

Auchentoshan 23 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1990 – 2014, Hogshead 6850, 47,7% (joint bottling with Whiskybase)

Comment: To begin with, this one needs water to unfold (essential). It noses rather untypical, more mature but also a little flat (less lemony, few head aromas). I am getting marshmallow, mushroom, almonds, grapefruit, orange zest, chicory, creamy sweetness and discrete wood. The taste is sharper than expected, fennel, bitter almond, licorice, grass and lemon dash, a malty sweetness, nuts and vanilla cream come out with water. The finish turns a little bitter and woody. Not my personal style, but water does magic here.

Score: 85-

Auchentoshan 21 y.o. Whisky-Fässle for Malt Monkey 1992 – 2014, 51,1%

Comment: I prefer this on over the other as it reveals lemon freshness right from the start. We also get dried flowers, heather, grapefruit, orange zest, pollen, green peppercorns, licorice and old weathered oak. On the palate it dances between bitter elements (wood) and lemon sourness (great acidity) plus malt and vanilla cream. It finishes on grass and the mentioned aromas.

Score: 86+

Speyside Region 2008 – 2014 Whisky-Fässle, Sherry Cask, 46,9%

Comment: Aromatic flowery start with hay, dried flowers, malt, licorice, apple, peach, quince, charcoal, window cleaner and pizzeria smells (wet sour dough, oregano, tomato). It tastes malty sweet with hints of licorice and bitter oak. H2O doesn’t change it, only dilution happens. However, a good one for its age.

Score: 82

Clynelish 1995 – 2014 Whisky-Fässle, Hogshead, 52,7%

Comment: An absolute classic version (candle wax, apple, ozone of upcoming storm, quince, apricots) but more on the smoky side with lemon freshness, really deep and intense. It tastes typical with no offnote, pronounced mashmallow and incense aromas add complexity. Long finish, all very balanced, a good dram. Recommended.

Score: 87+

Burnside 24 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1989 – 2014, Hogshead, 51,1%

Comment: This one noses like a Riesling Auslese from the Mosel area. Overall, there is minerality and a fruity sourness with grapefruit, passion fruit, pineapple, peaches and citrus-like aromas (tangerine), all this in good maturity (dextrose starting to unfold). Traces of coconuts, almonds and balancing spice (chili, white pepper) complete the nose. It tastes like the nose, very round, then it adds floral compounds and malt. The finish is long on vanilla and lovely fruit, only the oak leaves a little woody bitterness I could do without – but that is the only ‚flaw‘, so to speak, and maybe a personal thing.

Score: 89+

Littlemill 23 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1990 – 2014, Hogshead, 51,2%

Comment: Many bloggers embraced this already legendary Littlemill and scored high – I can follow, wow, what a dram, although it isn’t above many other killers from there, it is right on spot with them. Littlemill is amazing. I keep this shorter: grapefruit, lime, lemon, aprcot jam, gooseberry, wine gum, green tea, marzipan and almonds, cake glace and what not, accompanied by big vanilla, creme brulee, white chocolate and a hint of oak, all in great balance. A must-have for Littlemill fans.

Score: 91

Irish Malt 10 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 2003 – 2014, Hogshead, 49,5%

Comment: Not sure where this is from, Jens doesn’t know either, he said. Let’s nose: A fruity, sour and grassy aroma with big toffee and fudge, tinned pears, Thai curry soup wine gums and Haribo peaches (sorry), lemons, gooseberries, elderflower, grass, hay, white pepper, oak and vanilla at first. Then pistacio, almonds, honeysuckle, apple juice and more. It has moments when it reminds me of ‚orange wine‘ (Sauvignon Blanc). It tastes just like that, nice.

Score: 87

Ben Nevis 18 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1996 – 2014, Hogshead, 50,8%

Comment: I love Ben Nevis with its funky and unusual profile – and this one is really one of the best ones that were released in the recent past. It takes you along on a walk in the forest (pine needles, resin, earth, ferns, etc.) and adds various citrus fruits and grapefruit, curry, milk chocolate and a splendid acidity that balances everything to perfection. A fat Ben Nevis, gentle though. My recommendation!

Score: 90+ (on a personal level, maybe 91)

Tomatin 17 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1997 – 2014, Hogshead, 48,3%

Comment: Somehow an old style Tomatin a la 5/10 y.o. from the 1970ies (I prefer the 5) with licorice, garden fruit pits, apples, white peach, pineapple, summer earth, leather and pepper plus the wonderful Tomatin maltiness. It continues to be a classic und old fashioned whisky in good balance.

Score: 89-

Diamond Demerara Rum 10 y.o.  2003 – 2014, Barrel, 51,1%

Comment: Rum is on the rise and now in style more than years before, deservedly so. This Guyana specimen (I think it is Jens‘ second rum) has all the typical features of this still but lacks the power on the palate to be great. It is good though, a good starter for getting into heavier rums.

Score: 85

Miltonduff 1995 – 2014 Whisky-Fässle, 51,2%

Comment: The nose starts with dried hay and flowers and some sweet malt in the background. One can already sense that this one needs time to unfold. A bit later, Snickers and KitKat White Chunky bars appear (nuts, caramel, chocolate, vanilla) along with crystallized pineapple, peaches, oranges, honey, licorice, pepper and marshmallows. Somehow I am reminded of oaked Chardonnay and fruit tea/infusions. On the palate this Miltonduff is rather sweet and fruity and really smooth. It has just a hint of oak and vanilla and a nice leathery dry touch – like suede on the tongue. In the finish the fruitiness prevails along with blossom tea, elderflower, vanilla and oak. This is a real springtime dram for lovers and ladies.

Score: 88+ (89 for complexity)

Ledaig 2005 – 2014 Whisky Fässle, 53,3%

Comment: It is almost boring (in a good way!) how reliable 2005 Ledaig is, and this one makes no difference – already a classic vintage for me. I heard that younger ones are as peated as these, soon there will be a Hepburn’s Choice release to check. This 2005 is typical, altogether more on the green side (agave juice, green tea, herbs). I am getting shoe shine on leathery shoes, soot, peat, chili and pepper, green apple, iodine, farmyard smells and freshly ground coffee in the nose – and some pine aromas of a sauna. It tastes as above, but the abv shows some reduction which reduces the fun factor a bit. It is too nice, almost Bowmore-esque at times. Nevertheless this is great stuff, maybe suitable to introduce beginners to island peatsters – or for anyone who loves peated whisky with high quality.

Score: 89

Littlemill 24 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1989 – 2014, Bourbon Cask, 47,6%

Comment: A typical Lttlemill, but somewhat sweeter than usual. I am getting honey, vanilla, maple syrup and dried apricots at first – some oak too, and yellow apples. The herbal card is played with thyme, marjoram, oregano, beech leafs and incense. In addition the ‚lowlandy‘ lemon zestiness comes in. Subtle notes of ginger and soft smoke round it off. It has a good balance and an exceptional woodiness on the palate, sweet and herbal at the same time – this stands out and makes me pour another.

Score: 90

Longmorn Whisky-Fässle 1992 – 2013, Bourbon Cask, 51,1%

Comment: Oak meets bright fruit here, just at the beginning of becoming cristalline and dextrose-like (not yet there). A Spätlese-Riesling is no far away from these first whiffs. On second sniff, it gets sweeter with vanilla cookies (Vanillekipferl), poppyseed pastry (Mohnschnecke), white chocolate, alpine summer freshness (I think back to bicycle tours in Garmisch), flowers, green grapes and some spice from the wood. Complex! On the palate it is very balanced between mature fruit and the wood, but I can’t believe it is cask strength – a softie. Worth a try!

Score: 89+

Bowmore 10 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 2003 – 2013, 50,2%

Comment: Another one with low strength for its age. Maybe slightly reduced (which has become more common among bottlers recently), but that doesn’t have to be a bad thing – if you hit the right ratio of dilution. This one has! In general, Bowmore drams from 1993 – 1997 have blown me away with their power, but after that they tend to get milder again, and this one does too, it smells and tastes EXACTLY like the old Mariner 15 y. or 17 y.o. from 2002 – 2005 (roughly), but with slightly more intensity (steam train-like). Ferns, baby! A walk in the wet forest, elegant and discrete wood, then lemon chicken on Islay’s beaches. Great new oldie! This brings back memories.

Score: 89-90 (I like it for very personal reasons)

Comment: This one has not been talked about recently. Of course it is winey (albeit not sweet or Port-like), but also very elegant and typical for a 1980ies Bowmore with a lot of distillery character (leafy, ferny, lilac, herbal as hell, in fact, and: chlorine – yeah, yeah, some hate this style – discrete peat and pepper spice) and the Bowmore-esque balance. The taste is identically typical, which is good or bad news, depending on your view on this period of Bowmore distillation. I like it. But it will definitely split the opinions. The 56% abv. are not evident. Nice dram, but no ‘must-have’.

Score: 88

Caperdonich 39 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1972 – 2011 Refill Sherry Cask 45,0% (Joint Bottling with Whiskybase.com)

Comment: This summer dram is mainly built on four pillars: 1) tropical fruit (apricots, banana, lemon, kiwi, grapefruit, passionfruit), 2) charcoaled white oak and the spiciness/vanilla going with that, 3) honey, and 4) a field of flowers with honeybees, pollen and discrete herbs. That is quite something already. On the side, there are aromas of fine Earl Grey tea, white chocolate, peanuts and a bit of smoke. It reminds me of a fine sweet wine from Italy in some moments (a Vin Santo or a South Tyrolean Passito). The whole combo is surprisingly fresh and alive for such an age, but also a bit oaky. Like with many other Whisky-Fässle-bottlings, the Sherry influence is rather low here. Fino? Third-fill? Whatever, utterly awesome whisky! If the oak had a slightly smaller role this would be legendary!

Score: 90

Nose: Starts uber-fruity and very nice, I am getting loads of passionfruit here (like an old Bruichladdich) along with tangerine, lime, peach, grapefruit, all very oily. Whoops, now the nut-express arrives (esp. almonds and macadamia), wonderful, and almost no wood or spice to be found without being boring. Some flowers add to the great depth and complexity.

Palate: This is high-class all the way in textbook-balance. On the light and delicate side, but with a fruity tail. Subtlety can be a charm.

Finish: Tropical fruit oil (passionfruit leads it), coconut and what not, a real stunner from this underrated distillery.

Score: 91-

Comment: Buy this! Have it in the morning or in the afternoon – or put it at the beginning of your tasting to spoil it for the following drams.

Bunnahabhain 42 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1968 – 2011, Refill Sherry-Cask, 43,8% (Joint Bottling with Whiskybase)

Comment: From a great vintage for that distillery. This doesn’t disappoint at all and displays typical old Bunna-charm and complexity: Wonderful fruits, spice cake (cinnamon as leading element), honey, fruit tea, maritime freshness, leather, creme brulee with Sauternes wine, plums, Kirschbrand, tangerines, bananas, marshmallows, discrete oak and the noblesse of a fine Sherry. The taste is more on tea than I have ever encountered…is there such complex tea around?

Score: 90+

Clynelish 38 y.o. Whisky-Fässle, 1972 – 2010, 46,2%

Comment: Again, a typical Clynelish from the glory-years, excellent from the start. Seems like Jens is a great cask-picker! Waxy green apples, honey and pollen, apricots, vanilla, grass and herbs, lemon zest, lemongrass, a whiff of Asian spice and tea. Peat, smoke and moss are there but play only a minor role. Mmmmh, just great and also maritime (thunderclouds rolling in from the sea). Some austerity as well, altogether.

Score: 90

Glen Grant 37 y.o. Whisky-Fässle, 1973 – 2010, Whisky-Fässle, Sherry Cask, 46,2%

Aroma: Holzwürzig-tropenfruchtig, wie ein Obstkorb in der Schreinerei: Sägemehl-Tannine, Vanille, lösende Stoffe (Leim), weißer Pfeffer, eine Spur Harz und Eiche treffen Aprikose, Guave, Passionsfrucht, Grapefruit, gelbe Äpfel, Birnen, Multivitaminsaft, Mandeln. Der Sherry ist kaum zu bemerken, eher die Fruchtigkeit der Quercus Alba (amerikan. Weißeiche) dominiert.

Geschmack: Ein spannendes Spiel zwischen den Hauptelementen Holz und obstiger Frucht, das die Frucht gewinnt. Das Alter dieses Drams ist zu erschmecken, kein Balanceking, sondern ein ‚Schaukler‘. Mit Wasser deutlich cremiger und weniger Eiche (Empfehlung).

Abgang:

Great Bottler and very nice guy: Jens Unterweger, the face behind 'Whisky-Fässle'

Die Holzigkeit legt sich unbemerkt um die nun deutlichen Fruchtnoten und die Vanille singt ihr exotisches Lied. Langer Abgang.

Note: 87+

Kommentar: Man muss alte Whiskys mit Holznote lieben, doch dann ist dieser eine gute Wahl! Trotz der 46,2% Wasser zum Verdünnen verwenden!