Review: Some Whisky-Fässle and Whiskybase Bottlings (Clynelish, Bunnahabhain, Glencadam, Glen Grant)

Glencadam 37 y.o. Whisky-Fässle, 1974 – 2011, Refill Sherry Cask, 41,5% (Joint Bottling with Whiskybase)

Nose: Starts uber-fruity and very nice, I am getting loads of passionfruit here (like an old Bruichladdich) along with tangerine, lime, peach, grapefruit, all very oily. Whoops, now the nut-express arrives (esp. almonds and macadamia), wonderful, and almost no wood or spice to be found without being boring. Some flowers add to the great depth and complexity.

Palate: This is high-class all the way in textbook-balance. On the light and delicate side, but with a fruity tail. Subtlety can be a charm.

Finish: Tropical fruit oil (passionfruit leads it), coconut and what not, a real stunner from this underrated distillery.

Score: 91-

Comment: Buy this! Have it in the morning or in the afternoon – or put it at the beginning of your tasting to spoil it for the following drams.

 

Bunnahabhain 42 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1968 – 2011, Refill Sherry-Cask, 43,8% (Joint Bottling with Whiskybase)

Comment: From a great vintage for that distillery. This doesn’t disappoint at all and displays typical old Bunna-charm and complexity: Wonderful fruits, spice cake (cinnamon as leading element), honey, fruit tea, maritime freshness, leather, creme brulee with Sauternes wine, plums, Kirschbrand, tangerines, bananas, marshmallows, discrete oak and the noblesse of a fine Sherry. The taste is more on tea than I have ever encountered…is there such complex tea around?

Score: 90+

 

Clynelish 38 y.o. Whisky-Fässle, 1972 – 2010, 46,2%

Comment: Again, a typical Clynelish from the glory-years, excellent from the start. Seems like Jens is a great cask-picker! Waxy green apples, honey and pollen, apricots, vanilla, grass and herbs, lemon zest, lemongrass, a whiff of Asian spice and tea. Peat, smoke and moss are there but play only a minor role. Mmmmh, just great and also maritime (thunderclouds rolling in from the sea). Some austerity as well, altogether.

Score: 90

 

Glen Grant 37 y.o. Whisky-Fässle, 1973 – 2010, Whisky-Fässle, Sherry Cask, 46,2%

Aroma: Holzwürzig-tropenfruchtig, wie ein Obstkorb in der Schreinerei: Sägemehl-Tannine, Vanille, lösende Stoffe (Leim), weißer Pfeffer, eine Spur Harz und Eiche treffen Aprikose, Guave, Passionsfrucht, Grapefruit, gelbe Äpfel, Birnen, Multivitaminsaft, Mandeln. Der Sherry ist kaum zu bemerken, eher die Fruchtigkeit der Quercus Alba (amerikan. Weißeiche) dominiert.

Geschmack: Ein spannendes Spiel zwischen den Hauptelementen Holz und obstiger Frucht, das die Frucht gewinnt. Das Alter dieses Drams ist zu erschmecken, kein Balanceking, sondern ein ‚Schaukler‘. Mit Wasser deutlich cremiger und weniger Eiche (Empfehlung).

Abgang:

Die Holzigkeit legt sich unbemerkt um die nun deutlichen Fruchtnoten und die Vanille singt ihr exotisches Lied. Langer Abgang.

Note: 87+

Kommentar: Man muss alte Whiskys mit Holznote lieben, doch dann ist dieser eine gute Wahl! Trotz der 46,2% Wasser zum Verdünnen verwenden!