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Miltonduff 1995 – 2014 Whisky-Fässle, 51,2%

Comment: The nose starts with dried hay and flowers and some sweet malt in the background. One can already sense that this one needs time to unfold. A bit later, Snickers and KitKat White Chunky bars appear (nuts, caramel, chocolate, vanilla) along with crystallized pineapple, peaches, oranges, honey, licorice, pepper and marshmallows. Somehow I am reminded of oaked Chardonnay and fruit tea/infusions. On the palate this Miltonduff is rather sweet and fruity and really smooth. It has just a hint of oak and vanilla and a nice leathery dry touch – like suede on the tongue. In the finish the fruitiness prevails along with blossom tea, elderflower, vanilla and oak. This is a real springtime dram for lovers and ladies.

Score: 88+ (89 for complexity)

Ledaig 2005 – 2014 Whisky Fässle, 53,3%

Comment: It is almost boring (in a good way!) how reliable 2005 Ledaig is, and this one makes no difference – already a classic vintage for me. I heard that younger ones are as peated as these, soon there will be a Hepburn’s Choice release to check. This 2005 is typical, altogether more on the green side (agave juice, green tea, herbs). I am getting shoe shine on leathery shoes, soot, peat, chili and pepper, green apple, iodine, farmyard smells and freshly ground coffee in the nose – and some pine aromas of a sauna. It tastes as above, but the abv shows some reduction which reduces the fun factor a bit. It is too nice, almost Bowmore-esque at times. Nevertheless this is great stuff, maybe suitable to introduce beginners to island peatsters – or for anyone who loves peated whisky with high quality.

Score: 89

Now let’s talk about the bottlings in brief fashion. The first batch has gone rather quick, so let’s just give an overview.

Batch Dec. 2013 / January 2014:

Auchentoshan 11 y.o. (2001): Very typical yet better than the original, somewhat bigger and oilier, nuts, grass, lemon zest, herbs, vanilla, spring onions and more soft spice elements, long finish. 87 points.

Blair Athol 10 y.o. (2002): Great allrounder qualities, fruity tail, the favourite for many tasters among this batch. 88 points.

Braeval 12 y.o. Sherry Butt (2001): 87 points.

Tamdhu 12 y.o. (2001): Very typical of Speyside, straight and honest dram. 85 points.

Benrinnes 10 y.o. Sherry Butt (2003): 86 points.

Ledaig 8 y.o. (2005): We all love the 2005 Ledaig with its huge peaty tang and the leather – shoe shine – apple aromas. This one makes no difference. Another favourite among the tasters: 88 points.

The new batch was just released in February 2014 and I expected the quality to drop a bit, but again these are bangs for your buck, really good quality and fair value. Check it out:

Batch February 2014:

Auchentoshan 12 y.o. (2001 – 2014): A fruitbasket of a Lowlander, then green apples, lemon zest, grass and vanilla. It drinks softly yet chewy, fruity and big with a good balance. 87 points.

Craigellachie 9 y.o. Refill Sherry Cask (2004 – 2014): Hay, dried flowers, maltiness, ginger bread, pumpkin pie spice, licorice, pineapple and white pepper at nosing; drinks sweeter as expected, great spiciness with a soft body and impeccable balance. 87 points.

Balmenach 12 y.o. (2001 – 2014): A mix of regional and tropical fruit, rather fruity overall, amazingly mature for its age, plus canned milk. Nice finish. 88 points.

Benrinnes 11 y.o. Refill Sherry Cask (2002 – 2014): Honey, dried flowers, malt, hay, ginger, lemon zest; tastes okayish but has not settled in balance yet, it could add complexitiy, too. 82 points.

Speyburn 9 y.o. Refill Sherry (Fino?) (2004 – 2014): My favourite bottling of the bunch – it really smells and tastes like the water inside the mushroom glass, then apple compote, grapes, fino sherry, canned milk, brine, tropical fruits (pineapple, guava) and spices (chili, pepper), deep and unusual yet mild. Amazing. 89 points.

Glenrothes 9 y.o. 1st-fill Sherry Cask (2004 – 2014): nice sherry nose, not too raisiny, grapes, blood oranges, cola mix, black pepper, Asian spice; mild taste; a wondeful sherry cask bottling. 88+ points.

So get your hands on some of these drams for daily pleasure or for learning whisky and single casks. Recommended stuff!

Littlemill 24 y.o. The First Editions 1988, 55,8%

Comment: Another good one from Littlemill, these are very consistent. As usual, we have the herbs (thyme, rosemary), grass, dried flowers, lemon and vanilla in the front seat. Then we get peaches, bergamotte, apple and quince. A typical Littlemill with a spicy edge.

Score: 89

Strathmill 21 y.o. The First Editions 1991, 57,3%

Comment: A highland-like Speysider. Spicy oak, hazel wood, licorice, bitter elements, yellow apple, macadamia nuts, pistachio, honey and pepper.

Score: 85

Allt A’Bhainne 18 y.o. The First Editions 1994, 54,5%

Comment: Ginger, lemon, aromatic smoke, quite some oak and vanilla, quince and peach liqueur.

Score: 87

Teaninich 24 y.o. The First Editions 1993, Sherry Cask, 58,1%

Comment: This is your typical well-matured whisky with some spice elements that bring freshness. The sherry cask rendered raisiny and sweet aromas that are well integrated. I am also getting apple pits. Well balanced overall.

Score: 87+

Longmorn 27 y.o. The First Editions 1985, 51%

Comment: This one is my favourite of this series. Bright and cristalline fruitiness like a Riesling Auslese, lime blossom, cassis, apricots, you name it. Reminiscenses of old Glenglassaugh or Tomatin whiskies come to mind. Just fab.

Score: 91

Blair Athol 20 y.o. The First Editions 1993, Sherry Cask, 57,8%

Comment: A very unusual dram, I must say. Italian bitter (Aperol), chocolate, dark wood and spice, green elements (kitchen herbs), sherry and what not. It gains quality on the palate.

Score: 89

Miltonduff 30 y.o. The First Editions 1982, 48,3%

Comment: Fruit basket meets pickle glass water (mustard seed, pickles, dill and herbs), soft smoke, leather, honey, vanilla and a medium dose of oak infusion.

Score: 89

Mortlach 24 y.o. The First Editions 1989, 57,9%

Comment: Burnt steak, black pepper, porridge, acidity, sulphur, white balsamico, kitchen smoke – a unique dram that delivers on the palate.

Score: 88

Highland Park 17 y.o. The First Editions 1995, 53,9%

Comment: A peaty one but still gentle and immensely complex and coastal, I love it. It shows its allrounder qualities.

Score: 90

Jura 18 y.o. The First Editions 1995, 52,8%

Comment: Nicely farmyardy, coffee, canned milk and leather, The sweeter elemensts are doughnuts, Nutella, vanilla cream, gingerbread and pistachio. It might not be overly complex but tastes just right und quite unique too, as a Single Malt should.

Score: 90

Glentauchers 7 y.o. Archives 2005, Sherry Butt, 52,5%

Comment: Off to a flowery and malty start, green grapes too, quite enticing, I must say. Gingerbread, marzipan bar in chocolate, bark, honey, honeysuckle, dried fruits and orange peel join the nose. It tastes surprisingly raisiny and grapey at first, then becoming dry, malty and honeyed. The long finish is sweet and full of reminiscenses of a fine Chardonnay. Give this one time!

Score: 87+

Deanston 15 y.o. Archives 1997, 55,8%

Comment: I find Deanston a totally underrated distillery, and this dram proves it again – the nose offers loads of peach core aromas and apricot marmelade, a real fruit basket for its age, canned milk, white chocolate, saw dust, vanilla and a discrete smokiness. The greatness, however, is on the palate: great balance of fruit, some Sauternes-like sweetness and the wood. Wow. This loveable Speysider finishes on the sweeter side of life. Moreish!

Score: 89+

Glenrothes 25 y.o. Archives 1988, Refill Sherry Hogshead, 53,0%

Comment: Pot Still Rum?! Could be, but turns into a whisky now: lemon freshness, herbal tea, bergamotte, fruits (apple, apricots) and vanilla on the nose. Nice spices like ginger and chili come in, and quinces, honeysuckle and jasmin. It tastes baroque, full and mature with the spicy edge to keep it interesting. A spicy tail too.

Score: 88+

Glendronach 11 y.o. Archives 2002, Oloroso Sherry Butt 2751, 57,2%

Comment: Dry and spicy Oloroso nose, very nutty. I am getting aromas of pepper, leather, coffee beans, wheatfields, peach liqueur/syrup, canned milk and vanilla. It tastes like a classic Glendronach, altogether more on the spicy side of things without too much sherry domination. Dry oats, crispy malt. It finishes great and sweeter than expected on maraschino cherries and exotic spices. Gimme more!

Score: 89

Bunnahabhain 26 y.o. Archives 1987, Sherry Cask, 50,2%

Comment: Probably my favourite out of this release – big stuff, maraschino cherries, port, cooked raisins, dark chocolate, leather and salt plus that maritime and freshness. In second row there is some white pepper and even more dark fruit. Not overly complex, but soooo nice altogether. On the palate it jumps back and forth between fruity sweetness and spice elements, leaving you with the dark cherry fruit to win, and even more chocolate. Christmas dram!

Score: 90

Ledaig 7 y.o. Archives 2005, Hogshead, 62,8%

Comment: Our friends know what I think of Ledaig 2005 (we bottled one for our club) – and this is a classic example, even one of the better ones. Mustard seeds, polished shoes, apples, iodine  and big flinty aromas. Daddy like!

Score: 90-

Speyside Region (probably Glenfarclas) 17 y.o., Archives ‚The Fishes of Samoa‘ 1995 – 2012, Butt #56, 54 btl., 48,2%

Very regional Speyside indeed, a malty and flowery profile out of a Bourbon cask. Some nuts, vanilla, honeycomb, aniseed and dried fruits in the second row, later becoming more tropical (mango, pineapple), beachy (I know, this word doesn’t exist, but it works for me here) and milky. Very well-balanced and classic, quite a quaffer. A little water doesn’t change a lot, but more H2O creates a soft dram with even more complexity and ferns like a Bowmore occassionally: amazing, try it. 89 points.

Tormore 29 y.o. Archives ‚The Fishes of Samoa‘ 1984 – 2013, Barrel 3669, 90 btl., 51,0%

Big exotic fruitiness (all kinds, mostly oranges, pink grapefruits, pineapple, Guava, Bergamot), vanilla, pepper, canned milk, dried moss, a trace of ginger, Blue Mountain coffee, lilac and white oak – all that seemingly older, quite bold. The palate is much oakier than expected, with spice, chili, ginger and fruit in a fight, like a hot Caribbean dish. Water improves the balance and pushes the dram closer to its outstanding olfactory profile. 87+ points.

Bunnahabhain 40 y.o. Archives ‚The Fishes of Samoa’1973 – 2013, Butt 3463, 156 btl., 50,6%

Banana-Rum (Arcane)! Huge sweetness, vanilla, citrus fruit attack, passion fruit, yellow X-mas candles, flower honey, discrete oak and salt, really high class. On the palate, the banana is still huge and the immense fruit oils are accompanied by some linseed and soap (puts me off a bit). Almost no aok after 40 years. This one is a stunner – only the soapy touch is not for me, others might not even taste it, so my score might be too low – it could have been a 92 without it. 89+ points.

Don’t mess with me!

Glenrothes 18 y.o. The Maltman, Bourbon Cask, 50,8%

Grilled marshmallow and a lot of Bourbon cask influence right away (white oak, vanilla, fudge) with heather, honeycomb, pineapple, melon, apricot ice cream, pistachio and just a hint of smoke in the nose. The oakiness with bitter elements dominates the taste and is a bit closed at first. Water really opens up this dram and unlocks the complexity and aromas of the nose. Medium length finish on this classic mature Bourbon cask Speysider. 86 points.

Mortlach 22 y.o. The Maltman, Bourbon Cask, 46%

The first reminiscence one gets is thick smoke when a good steak is turned on the grill. This meaty and smoky base is accompanied by Italian herbs (mainly rosemary, sage and thyme, but also bay leaf), peaches, dried fruits, sandal wood, earth, milk, caramel and vanilla. Barrel-fermented Chardonnay might work as a wine comparison. Wow, this tastes as good as it noses, really well-balanced with all aromas dancing on a small pin of a needle. The smoke delivers such a perfect counterpart to the other aromas. A more-ish dram with a long finish. High class. 90 points.

Isle of Arran 16 y.o. The Maltman, Oloroso Sherry Cask, 46%

Dark cake with loads of different cherries, which come from the Oloroso cask. Maraschino, Amarena ice sauce from Italy, morello jam, you name it. A nice spiciness (salt, pepper, curry, Asian aromas), darker bread dough, raisins, summer flowers, and more without anything dominating (aside from the cherries in the first row). It tastes spicy and full of life with tingles. One of my favourite Arrans from a great sherry cask that doesn’t change distillery character too much. Kudos! 89 points.

Cask Sample: Ledaig 7 y.o. The Maltman (Bourbon Cask)

For years now, I have been introducing Ledaig to my friends as a wonderful dram with peaty qualities that doesn’t need to hide from any South Coast Islay whisky. My collection of 1972s can show the capacityin taste, and the 2005 is such a great distillate as well. That’s why we chose to bottle a Ledaig 2005 as our club bottling (soon tho be released, only a matter of weeks). This one, still a cask sample from the same time, makes no difference. Already great, but needs to mature for three more years or so. Love it already (89-91 points)!

P.S.: Between sample sets, there was a Springbank 17 y.o. (dark vatting) which I strongly recommend (90+ points) if you can find it (there are still some around). As it tastes a lot like the old sherried stuff (green thistle release, etc.), it is a real bargain for  around 115.- Euro at cask strength.

Bladnoch 21 y.o. The Whiskyman & The Bonding Dram 1991 – 2012, Bourbon barrel, 118 btl., 52,9%

Comment: Vanilla and white peach lead the way, pretty expressive right from the start with some freshly cut grass  and lemon zest lurking in the background plus the white oak being there in medium intensity. I also get white pepper and spinach. Well balanced in the nose and on the palate, which displays a typical Bourbon wood-maturation profile with loads of toffee, peaches, pear drops and vanilla again, all that rather unrestrained. Water sends the dram in a bitter and greener direction, I prefer it straight. The finish is oakier than expected but clearly within limits. A fun Lowlander, no doubt (and thanks, Jeroen).

Score: 87

Springbank 17 y.o. The Maltman (Meadowside Blending), Sherry cask, 46%

Comment: Unusual first whiffs that remind me of a pile of wood in the forest on a summer day. Pine needles, fir trees, and really dark chocolate, strange but in a good and different way. Cured ham, salt and mustard seed join the winey traces of the sherry cask in this dram. This one really needs time to unfold: after 10 minutes, I can detect peaches, maritime freshness and some spices but all that behind the forest motif. Does the walk in the woods continue on the palate? Yes and no, this is quite earthy (a slight peatiness surpised me) and noble on dark mahogani wood notes, mushrooms, excellent sherry, Culatello ham and discrete hints of various fruits in the background, really old-fashioned and lovely! The finish is long and shows the same balance and aromas mentioned but adds burnt wood. This is not your common dram, it brings back memories of a trip to the woods with your grandfather, probably a real gentleman of his time. Not for everyone, but for those who love to explore whisky variation. It grows on you, great pick!

Score: 89+

Ardbeg 12 y.o. SMWS 33.114 (Scotch Malt Whisky Society – Sweet versus Savoury) 1999 – 2011, refill sherry butt, 630 btl., 56,3%

Comment: A very spicy start with quite some eucalypt/agave/menthol aromas going on alongside the peat, brine, roots, herbs and some chalky oak. In second row I find the more typical notes of cocoa dust, tire store, Arabica beans and very discrete sherry. The taste is more typical of a classic Ardbeg than the nose would suggest, simply good. No water needed, but it swims well. Great iodine and matchstick sulphur in the very long finish. Daddy like !

Score: 88

Port Charlotte 9 y.o. SMWS 127.18 (Scotch Malt Whisky Society) 2002 – 2012, refill Bourbon barrel, 66,1%

Comment: Rhum agricole with peat, what a start! Like a lovely flower bouquet handed to you inside a peat-smoked kiln. Without water it plays it close to the chest. Menthol, camomile, iodine, charcoal, that’s about it in the nose and on the palate. Let’s add water: It unfolds now on smoke, barley sugar, roots, heather, apple skin, salt, sea spray, nettles, resin, chalk and oak. A wild ride around the ash tray altogether, I’d say. The whisky seems younger than other PCs from that era somehow.

Score: 87

Laphroaig 10 y.o. SMWS 29.108 (Scotch Malt Whisky Society – An Angel in a Sauna wearing Wellies) 2001 – 2011, refill Bourbon Hogshead, 28z btl., 56,8%

Comment: Although the angel and the sauna part in the titleof this bottling is bull – I can really smell the wellies (accompanied by peat and green stuff like herbs and celp). A great Laphroaig with loads of personality. Nothing fancy, just a great Southcoast Islay dram that needs no explanation. An ideal ‚for-the-road‘ whisky at the end of your tasting session that puts a smile on everybody’s face and guides them home with the warmth of a peat fire. No water necessary. Kudos!

Score: 90

Bowmore 23 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Fights‘ 1989 – 2012, ex-sherry butt, 341 btl., 53,1%

Whisky Agency's new series 'Fights'

Comment: This one is quite sherried, a raisiny and slightly sulphury sweetness is primary here which overrides the more subtle 1989 Bowmore character too much for my personal taste – a bit like prune jam on toasted bread with a little peat. I am also getting roots, maraschino cherries, lilacs, pepper, hazelnuts, chocolate, leather and earth. The palate is very similar to the nose and not among the best balanced or complex drams out there, it reminds me of a cough drop. The finish, however, is nice on sherry, elegant dark wood and peat. In a nutshell: Some might like this but I find it a bit weird and not very Bowmore. Again, just a personal opinion.

Score: 77

Laphroaig 17 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Fights‘ 1995 – 2012, Bourbon barrel, 253 btl., 53,9%

The Whisky Agency's new series 'Fights'

Comment: Wonderful start with a great integration of all Laphroaigs elements. I am getting vanilla, white oak, herbs, nettles, peat, brine, iodine, rusty fish trawler smells, ropes, pepper, old Golden Delicious apples, softly boiled potatoes with butter on top, lemon dash and grapefruit. Wow! On the palate it delivers as well, I adore how it is wild and mild at the same time. My beloved flintstone and matchstick sulphur shows up in the long peaty finish with chalky oak and some vanilla traces. No water necessary, but it can swim. Kudos, I really like this dram (having a weak spot for Laphroaig anyway).

Score: 90

Pit Krause kredenzt dazu die passenden Drinks, angefangen von edlen Single Malts über feine Weine bis hin zum Spitzen-Olivenöl und einem alten Portwein. Auch ein kleines Single Malt Whisky-Tasting darf dabei nicht fehlen.

Dazu malträtieren wir gemeinsam noch einen Jamon am Schinkenbock und verrichten Heldentaten an Herd und Glas – das dürft Ihr nicht verpassen! Mädels, ‚entsorgt‘ Eure Männer bei uns … und Jungs, beweist Euren guten Geschmack!

! Klickt hier für weitere Informationen und die Anmeldung !

Caol Ila 30 y.o. Archives 1982 – 2012, Bourbon Hogshead 758, 207 btl., 51,2%

Comment: Unusually fruity at first whiff but still with the typical peaty DNA of Caol Ila or even the one of older medicinical Islay drams like Ardbeg (indeed) but only for seconds. This amazing stuff turns towards mineral austerity after a while and then displays fruit again – a tightrope dancer with impeccable balance between these worlds. I am getting lemon zest, salt, olive oil, tarry tires, chalky and discrete oak, minty freshness, tropical fruits (peaches, pineapple, banana), herbs for soups and only a little juniper. This is mature Islay whisky for the connoisseur of elegant drams. No water needed.

Score: 90+

Caol Ila 28 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Sea Life‘ 1984 – 2012, ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 254 btl., 53,5%

Comment: Same basic maritime style minus the fruitiness of above’s bottling, yet wonderfully austere and mineral again with a touch of lemon zest. This is spicier and more Talisker-esque, dare I say. The peat layer is thin and and very elegant but develops some grip on the palate. Chalky oak again, tar, burning embers and juniper combine in great balance with wonderful of sea salt on the palate. Great choice.

Score: 89

Caol Ila 21 y.o. TheWhiskyCask 1990 – 2012, Bourbon Cask, 55%

Comment: This one is different, a farmyardy and herbal peater with quite some spice (white pepper, coriander, a little cinnamon), altogether the most typical of the three (white pepper,olive oil, juniper, lemon chicken, suede leather) – and it is notably younger and a little less balanced, but has more power and oak. The dry attack with some sulphury moments is best tamed with some drops of water.

Score: 86

On Friday, a 1993 even won the tasting in Landshut: It was Andrea Caminneci’s C&S Dram at 18 years and 51,4% (90+ points for me). So let’s see if this version can keep up:

Glen Keith 19 y.o Whisky-Fässle „Duck Edition“ 10.1992 – 07.2012, Bourbon Cask, 49,1%

Comment: The first whiff already tells a novel – another great Glen Keith that could be a poster child for how Bourbon casks should influence a spirit, a quality being typical of Glen Keith. Loads of vanilla, dried fruits (pineapple!) and white oak (plus the spices going with that) followed by natural caramel, flowers (pollen), honey, mango, melon, pear, orange, Sauvignon blanc (gooseberries) and a slight hint of cloves – all this is well-balanced. The taste doesn’t let you down either and the oakiness is just as loud as necessary. Fruit oils caress the tongue and even some coconut can be found. The long and tasty finish makes you want to pair this bottling with a creme brulee or stuff like that. A dash of water brings out even more fruit. A malt also for Bourbon lovers. Kudos, Jens! Hurry up to get a bottle, guys …

Score: 90

Miltonduff 29 y.o. The First Editions 1982 – 2012, Cask ES 015/01, 47,8%

Comment: Aaah, very aromatic, enticing and well-integrated right from the start, also a bit unusual (which is a good thing). A gentle giant. This whisky displays its amazingly ripe tropical fruit (mainly tangerine, guava, grapefruit, but also some pineapple, peach and peach liqueur, crystallized orange, pear and a touch of coconut oil) in a refreshingly sour surrounding, adds toffee, marzipan, macadamia nuts, nettles, a hint of a black peppery spice and something to describe as a vanilla-strawberry-milkshake. The oak is very discrete for 29 years of age. On the palate it is slightly more oaky (but still unobtrusive) and as elegant as malt whisky can get. All elements mentioned are there in wonderful subtlety and translate into a long finish that leaves you wishing for another pour. I recommend drinking it without dilution but water doesn’t hurt the dram, it just doesn’t change it much. Great pick, Andrew, this is a recommendation!

Score: 91

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