Review: An Austrian Bunnie from 1991

Austria has proven to be whisky-savvy many times. This rings true once again in the case of the Single Cask Collection, Austria’s independent bottler. They have just released a brandnew 1991 Bunnahabhain which was really well-received by the audience in last week’s tasting. Let’s take a closer look:

 

Bunnahabhain 21 y.o. Single Cask Collection 02.12.1991 – 2012, Bourbon Hogshead 5468, 49,1%

Comment: Great and typical start with salty notes and maritime freshness, well-balanced with a good malt-cask-ratio that renders quite some complexity. There is a sweet and fruity base (caramelized fruits like peaches, pineapple, orange zests and such, toffee, marshmallows, honey) underneath this oceanic beauty paired with a typical charcoaled white-oak influence, heather, elderflower, tinned condensed milk and some almonds. I can also smell traces of peat. On the palate it shows a malty and tannic back at first, then it plays the maritime card with discrete peatiness. Without water it stays a bit shut down, but H2O (recommended) brings back the multitude of aromas it had in the nose and makes the hard shell smooth. The medium-length finish leaves you with the wish for another glass – good Bunnie again, but not a loud dram in your face, rather subtle and austere. At a price point of 69.- Euros, this is good value and pairs amazingly with shrimp or lobster.

Score: 89

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