Around Christmas-time I enjoy a good glass of Cognac, and this is more than a malternative. Sebastian Jäger from Kirsch Import (congrats: they won ‚importer of the year‘) is on our side to bring Charente-juice back to honour again. Let’s review two of their latest releases:
Cognac Jean-Luc Pasquet ‚Organic‘ 2006-2021, Cask 27, Grande Champagne, Kirsch Import, 50,1%
Comment: This is as ’single‘ as it gets! From their own hand-picked organic grapes, this eau de vie was self-distilled on gas, and filled into single casks. I kid you not, it starts out like a Calvados. So many apple aromas (pie, green apple, compote, tart tatin) and vanilla jump out of the glass, then big banana, pears, raisins and butter join in. Sandal wood and oak are also playing a major part. Fresh linen, lime-infused cake glaze and white chocolate complete this unusual but harmonious nose – fresh!
On the palate it arrives sweeter than expected, mainly on baked apples, butter and oriental spice. Round and sound – winey acidity, grapes and yes, Calvados, show up. Very alive!
It finishes on medium-length with spice from exotic woods, fruit (apple, banana, grapes) and vanilla pod. A wild and unusual ride with a fresh experience in the field of Cognac! One to learn a lot from …
Score: 87-88
Cognac Vallein Tercinier ‚Small Batch‘ 41-43 – 2021, Kirsch Import, Bons Bois, 78 btl., 48,2%
Comment: A rare Single Estate and cask strength Cognac gem from WWII. which is now sold by a German importer – how times have changed for the better! That alone is heart-warming. It has spend its life in cask until 2006, then in Dame Jeannes (glass balloons). Let’s nose: ooops, who put the Bowmore 1968 in here? Almost kitsch in terms of fruitiness (passion fruit, guava, papaya, pink grapefruit, apple, lychee, plum, raisins, cherry) and berry aromas (all kinds, cassis etc.), uber-fruity, joined by minerality and the discreetest old wood – almost purely spirit-driven! It also plays fir twigs, moss, humidor, rancio, vanilla, lilacs, violets and so much more – in perfect balance like a finely tuned stereo!
It builds itself up on the palate, from mild to strong, from floral, acidic and wood-spice elements to huge exotic fruits, berries and a nutty rancio aspect with sweets! An amazing development in my mouth! I recommend big sips here – don’t miss this!
The finish should be illegal! All is reunited like on a huge water colour painting in which every now and then another highlight shines out. A piece of art, and not tired at all! Amazing pick with history – get it!
Score: 92