Spirit Hunter: Simon Thompson

White wines from Ugni blanc and Colombar varietals from the Bordeaux region are first double distilled (“à repasse”) in traditional copper pot-stills and then set down to mature in oak casks, only to be woken from a deep slumber – like a sleeping beauty – by a subject of Her Royal Majesty, who has fallen in love with this absolutely unique elixir from Bordeaux. Inspired by the region’s wine making craftsmanship and rich history, resolutely contemporary, the Thompson’s® range offers uniquely selected “eaux-de-vie”, exclusively from the Bordeaux region. The shared history between Bordeaux, Aquitaine and England is long and rich. The discovery of this forgotten treasure will add a new page to that special relationship.

As I love a good brandy, I am curious to try these rare distillates. Only a few hundred bottles of the 25 and 30 year old versions exist. Find out more about them here. Simon Thompson wants to become an established producer in Bordeaux. But can his distillates become rivals for cognacs. Unique, they are! To answer that, let’s try all three currently available versions:

Thompson’s Single Distillery Finest French Grape Brandy, 40%

Comment: On paper, this is not the real deal yet (hence the name) because it is only married with a little Fine Bordeaux A.O.R. However, I am positively surpised. The mixing seems to enhance complexity and the Limousin oak did a good job. The lead notes are hay, straw, dried flowers (geranium)

Union Jack Version

and licorice, which don’t immediately become associated with brandy. In fact, it is a bit whisky-like at first nosing, somehow between the worlds. I am also getting vanilla, soft peppery spice, raisins, green grapes, crystallized oranges, lemons and pineapples. On the palate it clearly presents itself as a grape distillate in a very gentle, light and slightly creamy style. The vanilla and the brighter fruits get bolder and are well in tune with the licorice and hay. This youngest version also finishes like it tastes, a real smooth and light sipper of good quality.

Score: 86

Thompson’s Fine Bordeaux 25 y.o. A.O.R. Single Distillery, Very Limited Edition, 40%

Comment: This brandy actually is 26 years old and way heavier and deeper in style than its predecessor, also more typical. Wonderful aromas of tobacco and soft smoke from fine cigars in cedar wood caress the nose as well as some rancio, marzipan and vanilla. Intriguing Indian restaurant smells join in (sandalwood sticks, Tandoori, Ghee butter, curry), very interesting. There also are raisins, prunes, dates, cherries in chocolate, ginger bread, dough, lemon grass, crystallized citrus fruits, pineapple and a whiff espresso to be found in this complex combo. This complexity translates into the palate and the long finish in a full and slightly creamy style that bears gentle smoothness. The raisins take center stage without going overboard. This is better than many cognacs of the same price category. Recommendation!

Score: 89+

Thompson’s Fine Bordeaux 30 y.o. A.O.R. Single Distillery, Very Limited Edition, 40%

Comment: Here comes the ‚headliner‘, actually being 33 years of age. And how those seven more years in Limousin oak make a difference! There is so much going on in this Fine Bordeaux, amazing. A wonderfully balanced nose without any edges and a depth that displays perfect maturity that reminds me of an old Demerara Rum or a heavily sherried Speyside whisky (Glenfarclas) in its thirties but with still enough trademark brandy features. It is sweeter and darker than the 25. This kind of complexity leaves me speechless: Muscovado sugar molasses, lit cigar, humidor, cedar wood, chocolate-covered coffee beans (mocca), vanilla pod, mahogani, sandal wood, marzipan, old balsamico vinegar, fresh dough, ginger bread, soft smoke, flowerpot earth, geranium, malt beer, walnut liqueur and many fruity elements (dried apricots, prunes with a Hoisin Sauce touch, dates, red grapes and raisins, crystallized oranges and lemon skin) and what not – I kid you not, it’s all there! This elixir from Bordeaux coats the tongue and mouth in fat and creamy fashion and finishes at medium length. Utter bliss. Imagine this dram in cask strength. It would easily rival great cognacs. A ‚must-have‘ at a price point below 100.- Euro.

Score: 92

P.S.: I kept this article back to celebrate the first birthday of this blog (not the page) – which is today :)! Thanks for reading, everyone. Here’s to many more years!

Highland Park 10 y.o. G&M Reserve, 15. June 1995 – 1. May 2006, Refill Sherry Hogshead 1329, 307 btl., 57,9%

Comment: Great maritime freshness and discrete sherry, also herbal (thyme, minty menthol) and softly smoky. There also are aromas of cole slaw, heather and turkish delight in the well-balanced mix. Some tasters found traces of ‚Gletscher Eis‘ drops, an old German sweet with the so called freshness of a glacier. Mmmh. Isn’t it lovely how whisky aromas conjure up childhood memories. On the palate there is a lot of natural caramel in company with the already mentioned notes. A long finish, really an allrounder with so much going on, Scotland in a glass. I just bought another bottle for 59.- Euro a month ago.

Score: 91–

The ‚distillery only-bottlings‘ can be real stunners (I had great Glengoyne, Laddie and Glendronach) but some were only specially selected by name, not by taste. Let’s see how this new Balblair compares.

Balblair OB 1992 bottled 30.4.2012 (Hand Bottling, Distillery only), Cask 2990, 60,9%

Comment: This is a spicy and fruity endeavour. I am getting apples, apricots, pears, white pepper, aromatic smoke, a hint of vanilla and rather big oakiness. On the palate it is too sharp for my taste. I also find a spicy bitterness from the wood and the typical Highland maltiness. This dram needs water, which releases more fruit and gets a creaminess going. However, still a lot of oak though. It finishes at medium-length on vanilla, apple, apricot and licorice. For lovers of oaky and malty drams and Highland austerity, only.

Score: 81

Glen Garioch 36 y.o. Douglas Laing Platinum Selection 1967 – 2003, 132 btl., 55,5%

Comment: Definitely a classic in a timeless style. Leather, earthy smoke, spices (also ginger) and glue, honey, dark wood, morello cherries and peaches caress the nose. On the palate, it is a real powerhouse with bright and dark elements in one (which I love). The spiciness bites but there also is a great maltiness. Aditionally, armchair seat aromas emerge. A tiny drop of water helps this dram to become creamier, rounder and more accessible overall – but avoid more H2O as it also evokes soapy elements (not uncommon in 1960 Gariochs). The finish is long and warming on spices, malt, leather, mahogani and pralines. A heavy old malt with distinction.

Score: 90

Glenturret 34 y.o. Maltbarn 1977 – 2012, Bourbon Barrel, 249 btl., 48,4%

Comment: Big fruit and spicy oak at first, quite powerful, but this settles quickly. Also lots of vanilla cream, toffee, marzipan and roasted macadamia nuts. The fruit elements are passion fruit, apricot, white peach, strawberry, apple and pear. It also has something like Pina Colada in it, plus some green tea and honeysuckle. 34 years, ok, but the wood is a tad too dominant for me because it doesn’t allow the other aromas take center stage (water doesn’t change that). The first taste impression is Tequila-ish, then fruit, green walnut and big oak n‘ friends take over, all the way into the long finish, where vanilla, passion fruit and coconut reverberate.

Score: 86

Small Batch Gin from Balmenach

have enough Balmenach whisky yet to judge the overall quality fairly. This stuff is quite rare. Check here for another winner which has just been released months ago. By the way, Inver House also produce the Caorunn Gin there (recommendable).

Martin Diekmann, former fellow Malt Maniac unearthed this 1979 version. As he is in the independent bottler’s business now with his Maltbarn labels, he stepped down as an active Maniac. This tasting note is dedicated to him and his young family – he just got married in that very barn to be seen on the label below. Heartfelt congrats from all of us at slowdrink, Martin!

Balmenach 32 y.o. Maltbarn 1979 – 2012, Bourbon Barrel,  209 btl., 53,1%

Comment: High class nose with clean crystalline bright fruits, berries and a pleasant pepper note on the side, altogether very fresh, slightly mineral and acidic/sour. The pineapple-grapefruit-coconut-marzipan-vanilla combo plays a beautiful tropical Calypso tune (ok, I’ll cut the crap – it is really nice). Also lemon zest, mango, kiwi, pear drop and traces of moss, ferns, summer flowers (echinacea), elderflower, redcurrant, flour, green tea and late green herbs join the well-balanced bouquet. Give it time and you will be rewarded (it might turn opaque). I adore this massive complexity that, nevertheless, smells simply enjoyable and accessive without being all over the place: this is what makes good whisky great. Let’s hope it tastes like that: yes, it does! A Speyside heart and a tropical body (how would that be for a woman?) in perfect balance and within a slightly sour ‚milieu‘, no water necessary. Ginger and dried flowers add to the mix, they are now on par with the tropical elements and the damp mossy earth. The freshness and discrete pepper amaze me again and lead into a long finale full of tropical joy (never trite in this dram), toffee and vanilla. Lovely! Martin, please put two bottles aside for me, this is a great pick.

Score: 92

Tormore 16 y.o. Whisky-Doris 13.9.1995 – 1.11.2011, Bourbon Hogshead 20213, 132 btl., 53,4% (In memoriam Horst Manthée)

Comment: The nose consists of a fruit basket (pears, apples, oranges and orange zest, peaches, pineapple) and spices (ginger and chili) at first, then butter, some white oak with vanilla and caramel – plus a lot of ‚m‘ join in: marshmallows, malt, meadow (grassy), macadamia nuts and marzipan. On the palate this Tormore adds licorice and honey and needs quite some water to be tamed. A lot of grass now. The wood evocated a lot of spice, which you have to like. The fruit just shortly emerges, but in a fat marmelade style. It finishes in peppery spice, sawdust oak, malt and hints of sweet bright fruit. In summary, this is a very classic Speyside Malt with spicy white oak elements.

Score: 85

Laphroaig PX CASK OB, Travel Retail Exclusive, 100cl, 48%

Comment: Still noticeable Laphroaig but with way more cask influence (American oak, then Quarter Cask, finally PX). I can smell more Bourbon (a lot, actually) than Pedro Ximenez, which seems normal when you look at its maturation process, but both elements are there. American Laphroaig, so to speak, with juicy oak, vanilla, caramel and quite some ripe tropical fruit (pineapple, lemon, dried peach, even banana and coconut). The sherry cask brings dark fruit aromas as well (prunes, dates, sultanas) and has taken some of the edge Laphroaig usually has – it simply is softer yet fuller and less austere (dare I say ‚modern‘) and moseys between three worlds (Islay, Jerez and Kentucky). However, the oak is controlled and has not gone overboard. More in the back there are different kinds of nutty aromas, orange liqueur and Laphroaig’s typical peat, seaweed, tires, pepper, iodine and resin. On the palate it is peatier and more South Coast Islay than one could have suggested, which is good news to me. Quite rich, a bit sweeter than usual Laph and really well-balanced. Like in the bouquet it takes little leaps to Jerez and Bourbon Count(r)y, altogether in medium concentration and weight. This dram would also work as an introduction to the peat genre for newbies. The finish stays Hebridean mostly with matchstick sulphur, peat, chalk and iodine. A good addition to the range, subtle Islay summer, but not for purists and hardcore peaters.

Score: 89

Port Ellen Pe1, Elements of Islay (Specialty Drinks), bottled 2009, 50cl, 58,7%

Comment: This is really complex, deep and enticing with numerous elements that consist of dried malt, game, salt, some sherry influence, peat, sulphur, pepper, mustard seed, oily ropes, resin, pine needle, almonds, leather (suede), caramel-chocolate mix (e.g. Milka Daim), cocoa, balsamic vinegar, Italian herbs, Wellington boots, Havana tobacco smoke, lemon zest and discrete fruit (morello cherries, plums, raspberies, cooked apples). And all that jazz is finely tuned for a perfect balance. Whenever you pick up the glass it smells a bit different. Wow. On the palate is just as great, my kind of PE with that lovely soot, flinty sulphur and big peat in a discrete sherry environment – an Islay core that goes straight to your heart, gunpowder paradise. This is wild despite the sweeter cask influence. Smack my ass and call me Sally, this is darn good whisky, extra long finish, extra special.

It doesn’t surpise me that it has its own fan shirt. I’m a groupie myself, but they didn’t have my size.

Score: 93

The series of Port Ellen by The Whisky Exchange (Specialty Drinks)

Brora 32 y.o. OB Special Release 2011 (Annual Release No. 10), 1500 btl., 54,7%

Comment: Very austere, maritime and mineral, a typical old Brora, but a bit less farmyardy in the nose than usual. It almost strikes me as mild with notes of waxed apple, herbs, discrete vanilla, camphor, diesel and a put-out bonfire (coal smoke, soot ashes) on a stony beach with storm clouds rolling in. More on elegance than power altogether, so you have to be into austerity to go nuts for this one. This profile totally changes in the mouth, it literally explodes on the palate without becoming too sharp. This Brora just went from mild to wild while keeping a great balance. It now unfolds the breathtaking 1972-ish peat-soot-farmyard combo and also reminds me of the Talisker-esque bite (here on black pepper). There are some sweet milky-vanilla-licorice moments that get wiped out by the powerful elements in the finish. The traces of lemony fruits and leather can hold on though and counter the sooty ash and peat. A dram that screams for another glass. It is between the recent releases and a legendary 1972. No water is necessary but the Brora 32 can swim well. I am afraid this one will become very expensive in a few years.

Score: 92

Port Ellen 26 y.o. Three Rivers (Tokyo) 13.10.1982 – 17.08.2009, Sherry Butt 2473, 200 btl., 55,7%

Comment: Much rounder and sweeter than the LMDW version below due to a discrete but noticeable sherry cask influence. Stable and farmyard, tar, pine resin, loads of mustard seed and orange liqueur (lead notes here), salt, peat, diesel, aromatic smoke and an Asian spice combo. Close to perfect in its own way. On the palate it is wonderfully intense and complex. This one is full of life, spicy tones mingle with sweet ones (more sherryish in taste) at enormous depth, then the dirty PE characteristics kick in, and we start over again. This game goes on and on and leads into a great and extra-long finish. Excellent stuff! The tasters in the whisky tram (street car) agreed to this, it is an extra-special Port Ellen.

Score: 93

Port Ellen 25 y.o. Signatory for LMDW (La Maison du Whisky) ‚Collectors Edition, 1982 – 2007, Hogshead 1203, 255 btl., 55,7%

Comment: Clean and fresh, on the sharp and spicy side (white pepper, chili), resin, peat, mustard seed, chalk, lemon zest and very discrete fruit in the background. Nice clean maltiness paired with PEs complex distillery character, an intriguing couple which is clean and dirty at the same time. Just a little oak here. Very good and slightly Ardbeg-1970-like in parts, yet lighter. Nice nose, let’s check out how this slips down. The palate is also very structured and clear, simply straight and austere Port Ellen. This elegant dram finishes with some matchstick sulphur – it is never loud, a good company. If you are into austere PE, this is a must-have.

Thanks to Flo for the sample – it is the bottling he chose to open in celebration of the birth of his daughter. Welcome little Magdalena!

Score: 92

Port Ellen 2.2.1983 – 4.2011 Reifferscheid ‚Romantic Rhine Collection‘, Cask 229, 180 btl., 54,3%

Comment: This one has a touch of everything somehow and belongs to the clean side. Slightly farmyardy, malty and spicy altogether at first whiff. Despite the ‚peat-oil-tire-sulphur combo‘ and some soot, ropes and iodine, this Port Ellen has an elegant side to it. Maybe it is the dash of lemon and a pinch of sea salt/brine in the background that render this nice zestiness as a counterpart to the powerful Islay aromas. In addition to that, we detected milk coffee, leather and white pepper in the nose. On the palate the dram focuses way more on farmyardy and peaty aromas as suggested before. A discrete saltiness leads into the eternal flinty and sooty finish. Simply a great whisky with minor cask influence. I got me a bottle, what else can I say.

By the way, its sister cask #230 by Old Bothwell is equally as great and The Whiskyman release (Serge: 93) came from identical sources. I think Ruben scored it at 92 as well. I can confirm and recommend.

Score: 92

Longmorn 35 y.o. Douglas Laing Platinum 1968 – 2003, 95 btl., 57,8%

Comment: Amazingly balanced allrouder quality (we have dark and bright fruits, a discrete and noble spiciness), deep like the financial crisis and full of life after 35 years in the cask. This complex Longmorn bursts wine gum, tropical fruits, peaches, mirabelles, some plums and cherries. in the background notes of short bread and vanilla pastry (‚Vanillekipferl‘) join the beautiful mix. Let’s taste it: Yes! On the palate it keeps all its promises and simply delivers. Typical of old Longmorn, we have this special cristalline fruitiness (dextrose-like) that can get you addicted. Forget adding any water. All this malt mania ends in a glorious finish that underscores the depth of this dram again. There was an absolute silence among the tasters – a real good sign. We tried to find a bottle, but at an outturn of 95, we are still looking for one to come home.

Score: 93+

Rittmayer Hallerndorf ‚Rauchbier‘, 4,9% (European Beer Star Gold Award 2007, 2008 and 2009)

Comment: Lager-like with fine sweet malt, some lighter barley aromas, whiffs of lemon, dark toast, chestnuts, smoked ham, cereals, caramel and sugared almonds, suede, slightly more acidic than the others. Aromatic smoke with wonderful wood notes (cedar, sandalwood and loads of beech, which is traditional in Frankonia) hovers over the combo, used in small amounts. In the mouth it has a fine balance between beer aromas and the soft discrete smoke and is very moreish and quaffable, also easily accessible. Elegant, fresh and clean smoke for everyone, so to speak, yet complex enough for the connoisseur. The ideal starter into the world of smoky beer.

Score: 91 (this is right down my alley)

Rittmayer – Hallerndorf  ‚Smokey George‘ aus orig. schottischem Whisky-Rauchmalz, 5,0%

Comment: The producer (same as above) is an ardent fan of smoky Single Malts and a member of the Highland Circle. This beer can be a testimony of that. Darker but still in a lager-like area, quite yeasty in comparison, clearly malt-driven. Discretely sour, earthy-peaty and oily (this is the dark and dirty one of the three), pretzel dough, burnt caramel, walnuts, old couch leather, the most phenolic of the three. You can actually smell the whisky barley it is made from. Just like sitting inside a field – this is the leading theme here. Dark and big aromas of malt roll over the tongue in creamy fashion, whisky malt, oil and resin coat the mouth, like hanging on the exhaustion pipe of a Harley. This is a big one with a little sour and dry side kick. The finish is soothing and moves the whole experience into harmony. One for rough Islay fans.

Score: 90 (really good and complex – great stuff if you are into this profile)

Helios-Braustelle/Freigeist Bierkultur ‚Mac Heath’s Murder Malt – Cal. 45‘, 6%

Comment: This was the official Festival Beer of the ‚Braukunst live!’2012. Our plan was to connect the worlds of beer and whisky, just like the two Munich Festivals did connect . But it was hard to get peated malt within a short frame of time, but we did it. This rare beer has a stout base, it is the sourest of the three. Brewed by my friend Sebastian Sauer at Braustelle, this surely is complex: Dark whole grain bread, traces of banana, only little smoke or phenols in the nose though. Fatty acid, some yeast, scorched earth, tar and whiffs of resin. I love how two worlds collide here: the dark aromas and the exotic fruit, quite mindboggling and intellectual. It also is the most demanding beer in this comparison with a dry, slightly adstringent and sour touch that is not for beginners. Belgian sour-bitter reminiscences come up in some moments, also dark coffee, oak and 100% cacao chocolate. Medium intensity and weight, long finish with whiffs of smoke and tar.

Score: 87 (lovers of this style might score it higher)

Highland Park 11 y.o. The Maltman (Meadowside Blending), released 2012, 46%

sorry, not photo of bottle

Comment: Malty and fruity start, some leather, quite some vanilla and toffee, a nice spice-combo, coffee beans, apples, raspberry, candyfloss, good intensity yet very accessible. One for every kind of taste, I’d say. In the mouth this one performs like the great allrounder it promises to be with fruity glycerins and the maritime freshness. A classic Highland Park as it should be that finishes with traces of peat, heather and leather. Very typical too. Great stuff that screams for another pour.

Score: 89

Highland Park 11 y.o. Whisky-Doris 6.2000 – 01.2012, Bourbon Cask, 53,3%

Comment: Spicier and more leather than its predecessor at first. This requires more time to open up but then has more to tell. It becomes fruitier with each minute. Lead aromas are moss, hints of peat, apples, raspberries, ozone in seaspray and a beautiful American oak influence. Doris’s version has some extra depth to it, which I like. The spicy heat also translates into the palate and unfortunately shows less complexity there. Water broadens the profile by 100%. Good and satisfying finish with the peaty and spicy grip (but no king of balance). If you are into spice though, this is your choice. All these drams are on a high level.

Score: 88

Highland Park 11 y.o. Archives 2000, Bourbon Hogshead 800005, 129 btl., 50,9%

Comment: Not very different from the Whisky-Doris release, but it has more vanilla and reveals its secrets of fruit (raspberries and banana, mainly), spice and leather a bit earlier. There also are some pears, coal, white chocolate and milk coffee. By the way, white chocolate (maybe even with raspberries) goes very well with Highland Park whisky in general as a food pairing. The Archive babe tastes and finishes like it noses, all the way high class and very well balanced. No water needed. Adorable and very quaffable. Recommendation. I don’t know why some other tasters weren’t so fond of it.

Score: 90

Highland Park 11 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society 10.1999, SMWS 4.155, first-fill Bourbon Barrel, 58,6%

Comment: This is the aromatic smoky one in the bunch – plus the American oak weighs in more intensely. A tad bit simpler and less complex than the others altogether. Moss, peppery spice, pear and leather are to be found right away again but the whole dram is a bit sharp and more zesty overall. Water helps this one a lot. On the palate, the herb brigade rides in, accompanied by captain peach (sorry for that!). A bit unusual. Smoky and spicy finish with some toffee and green apples.

Score: 87+

Highland Park 17 y.o. C&S Dram Collection 1994 – 2012, Hogshead 22046, 55,7%

Comment: Let’s see how the older brother behaves. Oh, he’s from the farm, or he smells like that at least. Completely different from the others, very leathery and full of  stable-smells, also very coastal. Old Ardbeg-like antiseptic moments with sulphur, smoke, peat and dirty tires. Some lemony fruit, pepper, salt and dried hay as well. What an edge this has to it, wow!  No water here! I wouldn’t have guessed this as HP-Sauce in a blind tasting, that is for sure. The palate also screams old style South Coast Islay with that magnificent peat, iodine and salt. Kenny, it isn’t funny to bottle an older Ardbeg as a Highland Park ! Seriously, this is definitely not typical for HP, but extremly good if you are into discrete and complex Islay drams with some phenols – plus you can fool your friends in a blind tasting. I score its quality, not its typicality, so the score is high. Mmmmh.

Score: 91

Bowmore  13 y.o. The Maltman, Cask sample for Pit, Sherry Cask (no further information)

Comment: New style Bowie, more intense and on primary notes than the others below at the first whiff, quite some acidity, more fruity than herbal in its basic style. Still recognizable Bowmore character though. In the background I find pine resin and atlantic freshness with sea spray (ozone). No obvious Sherry is detetable (which I don’t mind). It finishes really impressive. All in all it reminds me of the Tempest (Original Bottling). I’d say it is ready to be bottled but could mature two or three more years but not longer as it might lose intensity. Don’t dilute for filling – thanks for this personal sample!

Current Score (if that makes sense): 89+

Bowmore 21 y.o. The Maltman, Bourbon Cask, 46%

Comment: This dram is more in the old style of the late 1980ies/early 1990ies but fortunately lacks the perfumy part to a great extent, a real elegant sip, but altogether not dramatically different fom the 13 y.o. reviewed above. We have vanilla, ferns, mustard seed, leather, some fruits hinted at (like in an aquarelle picture), forest floor, discrete smoke and on the whole a greener and more vegetal style. In taste it suffered a bit from dilution as it is too thin on the palate, but that on a very high level … if you like smooth Islay drams this is the one to pick.

Score: 88

Bowmore 1994 – 2009 Berry Brothers & Rudd, Cask 1681, 56,3%

Comment: Again close to 13 y.o. from above in the basic profile, but way sootier and more peppery. This also displays wonderful saltiness and a mineral acidity. It is very Bowmore in style with all the complex elements this classic has, but it is also very powerful, a hidden power somehow, because it holds back at first. I like the notes of soot and iodine on one end, the vanilla and lilac on the other a lot. Both worlds of Bowmore in one dram. It really explodes in the mouth and departs from the understatement of the nose. This Bowmore is extra-special, a most elegant yet strong interpretation of the peat genre with great balance and a very long finish. It needs no water whatsoever. After one sip you wish for a bottle…and so did everyone in our tasting in the streetcar (Dram in a Tram).

Score: 91

Bowmore 15 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1997 – 2012, Bourbon Hogshead, 53,7%

New Duck Editions

Comment: Duck fetishist Jens Unterweger brought us a new Bowmore in his duck-series. Quack! Aaah yes, it is one of those Bowies that retain distillery character but deliver a lot of power. Great freshness and balance to boot, altogether more on the spicy side. I like the white pepper and herbal plays in the background here … definitely one for a Bowmore sucker like me – if you like spiciness and herbs. Finally, there are soot and flints plus the classic Bowmore character in the finish. Water helps to balance the spiciness.

Score: 89

Isle of Arran 14 y.o. The Maltman 46%

Comment: This is very round and full from the get-go. Vanilla, toffee, marzipan-like sweet malt, maritime freshness, many fruits of all kind (bright and some dark as well), honey, ginger, some dried flowers, gentle spices and a juicy oakiness – altogether more modern and lush (in a good way). This works its charms and grows on me, a great nose. Let’s see what it does for me in taste: Starting dry with a firm malty grip, then honey, spice and fruit play their cards. The intruiging mix of the nose echoes in the finish in different waves wrapped in vanilla and malt. I am sure there are only few people who wouldn’t like this.

Score: 87

Nowadays there is good news again: In April 2013 Pernod Ricard wants to start distillation there again due to a growing demand for whisky in emerging markets. Glen Keith will have a capacity of 6 million litres p.a., contributing a 10-15% rise in the company’s complete amount of malt spirit. After reopening Allt a’Bhainne (2005) and Braeval (2008), Glen Keith is the third distillery to be reopened by Chivas Brothers, and their twelth one in action now, altogether. Let’s hope for more good stuff from there. Tonight, I am trying an 18 y.o. released in 2012:

Glen Keith 18 y.o. The Maltman, Bourbon Cask, 51,5%

Nose: It starts grainy and cereal-like with a green malty base. There are notes of hay, straw, dried flowers, patchouli, honey, licorice, ginger, smoke and sawdusty white oak. In the background pineapple, apples and green grapes complete this olfactory profile.

Palate: Somewhat white wine-like (grapes) and lighter in style. The lead notes are malt, licorice, oak, hay and tropical fruit.

Finish: Resemblance of the palate, finishing on the fruity notes. Good but seemingly younger than 18.

Comment: This is a good and very basic malt. It tastes a bit younger than 18. A classic Speyside dram.

Score: 84

Bunnahabhain 22 y.o. First Editions 1989 – 2012, Refill Bourbon Hogshead, 278 btl., 45,9%

Comment: Starts seductive and pleasing on peachy fruit, toffee and salt (yes, that maritime freshness again). I am also getting cristalline fruit elements already after 22 years, camomile, camphor, discrete whiffs of mossy earth, lemon zest, marshmallows and pine resin. It attacks more powerful than expected, which means that it doesn’t lack spiciness (salt!) and concentration in the mouth, very fresh again and slightly herbal, not über-balanced but still in fine delineation. The finish is warm, earthy and glows long like a fire in a seaside hut.

Score: 88

Bunnahabhain 11 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 10.71, April 1998 – 2010, Refill Sherry Butt, 221 btl., 54,9%

Comment: Ooops, this one is quite peated! Loads of  salt and spice add up to a very coastal character. Don’t laugh, this smell reminds me of a freshly caught lobster with its legs still moving (what an image). Let’s cut the cr.., Pit! There are some farmyardy elements as well, lemon zest, lime dash, chalk dust, camomile, new tires and pine resin. A power house palate that has Caol Ila-esque moments and sooty, spicy and peaty joy. Water doesn’t hurt and makes it more accessible but won’t change the taste profile. Long finish mostly on soot, peat and tires.

Score: 88

Bunnahabhain 36 y.o. Liquid Sun 1973 – 2010, Sherry Hogshead, 50%

Comment: Spicy maritime freshness, wood, vanilla and toffee, crystallized oranges and peaches, nuts, brine, marshmallow, camomile and camphor. Elegance and maturity define the taste, dark mahogani-like woodiness without any edges, polished whisky, so to speak. The freshness and some mild spices in the long finish make this a great example of an old Bunnie.

Score: 89+

Bunnahabhain 38 y.o. Malts of Scotland 26.3.1973 – 5.2011, MoS Sherry Cask 3463, 50,2%

Comment: Not very different from to the Liquid Sun release, but some more sherry notes and spices (mostly black pepper, brine, Cayenne pepper and ginger) at first, then toffee, nuts, sweet honeyed malt, crystallized oranges, camomile, dark wood, resin, pine needle, vanilla, maritime freshness. Complexity and that old style maturity on the palate, great in balance and taste plus whiffs of blue cheese and a salty tingle, like crisps in a pub. It also could be called the camomile tea of old whisky as these notes become bolder (in a good way). Long and satisfying finish. Great pick again by MoS.

Score: 90

Littlemill 23 y.o. Archives 1988 – 2012, Sherry Cask, 48 btl., 49,3%

Comment: Close to the Whisky-Fässle version, but a bit less elegant at first (please compare my nitpicking here), however after a while it becomes just as nice. The same whisky (look at the numbers …)? Obvious sherry influence, super combo of dark and bright fruitiness, big sandalwood, a little peat and moss, discrete vanilla, altogether great from the start with intensity – an old  Macallan-like moment just as in the one from Whisky-Fässle (sweet maltiness, morello cherries, discrete raisins, earthy notes, orange zest and fine cigar). Later, whiffs of cinnamon, plums and berries join in, a high class malt with impeccable balance, no doubt that this stands out from so many others in the whisky ocean. It tastes as great as it noses and is again comparable to the Whisky-Fässle release in profile, but a tiny bit less deep in my memory – but it might as well be identical with a little treatment and time. Only few know … and who cares, I wouldn’t mind having more bottles of such quality.

Score: 91

Littlemill 20 y.o. Whisky-Doris 4.1991 – 2.2012, Bourbon Cask 554, 49%

Comment: Quite some oak and tannin (a tad too much for the subtlety of this dram), dry maltiness, sawdust and alcohol, loads of licorice, vanilla, dried flowers, freshly cut grass, then some fruits (pineapple, watermelon, grapefruit, kiwi, gooseberries, tangerines, lemon dash, peaches), orange zest, traces of coconut and macadamia. On the palate, it convinces me much more with an explosion of fruit, vanilla, licorice  and hay which counter the oak well until the tannics and the dry malt win over in the finish. Water is recommended as it tones down the oak and puts more weight on the fruit. As expected, another nice Littlemill. Where have you been in recent years?

Score: 87

Caol Ila 14 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society, distilled 3.1997, SMWS 53.152, Refill Hogshead, 291 btl., 57,7%

different number, same outfit

Comment: This is a toffee and vanilla bomb at first, but then it develops into a classic Caol Ila of the good kind. Nice herbal edge, even with mint and camomile, we also have olive oil, juniper, lemon chicken, coal, tar and pine resin. Very drinkable at 57,7 % but even better with a drop of water. Sooty and spicy, very long finish! Simply classic.

Score: 88

Caol Ila 1987 – 2012 Whisky-Fässle, Bourbon Hogshead, 51,5%

sorry, no picture yet

Comment: Aromatic smoke! I am getting lemon zest, lots of herbs (from Provence), camomile, pine, altogether somewhat unusual for this distillery as it is more on spiciness (white pepper) than on peat (it is still peaty though). If I had a cold I would inhale this one to clear my sinuses. In the background we have the more typical notes. It also seems antiseptic now with a little bit of vanilla, tar, pine needle, juniper and green olives. Without water it tastes very hot and spicy, so let’s add some drops. Yep, here come more balance and way more aromas, just like in the nose. Medium length in the finish.

Score: 88

Littlemill 23 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1988 – 2012, Sherry Cask, 52,4%

Nose: This one defines complexity, there are so many aroma components on a fruity-sourish base – but they still mingle into great balance. So let’s go counting: There are earthy elements (moss, wet earth, hints of peat), flowers, dry malt, herbs and a little pepper, big fruit (morello cherries, raisins, dried peaches, tangerines, prunes, lemon zests), ice tea, berries, pine needles and wonderful humidor smells. In some moments this Littlemill has features of older Macallan whisky as well. Great!

Palate: It continues to amaze me. All mentioned flavour elements are there and create a mindboggling coherent mix. No water is necessary, but it brings berries (blackcurrant) and leather more to the foreground.

Finish: Staying true from start to finish. The main elements that linger are sweet malt and morello cherries. What a dram!

Comment: A great pick again, even a notch better than the Archive version. Don’t forget to organize me a bottle, Jens. I am dead serious.

Score: 91+

1) Cragganmore 1999 – 10.2011 Malts of Scotland, Bourbon Hogshead MoS 11012, 55,1%

Photo: thewhiskycask.de

Comment: A lot of Bourbon cask character welcomes you here in this dark dram, big white oak, tropical fruit (pineapple) and sweet vanilla – almost an American nose. There is not much distillery character left, indeed have I never encountered such a huge Bourbon influence in a Scotch. This is Scourbon (or Bourtch). I am also getting rising dough and some honey. How is the taste of this mid-atlantic dram? Well, a lot like a fine Bourbon with hints of Scotch. Water makes it more accessible and complex, but not different in style. One more to put down to experience, not bad at all, just very…Southern. Drink that one with a chicken-fried steak.

Score: 87

2) Cragganmore 12 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society 2.1999 – 2011, SMWS 37.49, Refill Bourbon Hogshead, 248 btl., 54,2%

Comment: Brighter than its predecessor. It reveals a nice complexity on the herbal side, also many tropical fruits (tangerines, grapefruit, peaches, passion fruit), dry malt and whiffs of sawdust. Behind these lead aromas I can find almond oil and reminiscences of a fat Riesling Auslese from Baden. On the palate it has a wonderful balance, everything is there and in place, no water is necessary in this oily dram. It develops into a ‚fruitcakey‘ direction and finishes really well, no offnotes, just plain good malt.

Score: 89+

3) Cragganmore 21 y.o. The First Editions 1989 – 2011, Refill Bourbon Hogshead, 268 btl., 55,4%

Photo: Sixtyseven-Seventy

Comment: Again, a different profile, fragile, well-balanced and Chardonnay-like – more typical of the distillery as herbs come through as well in amazing complexity (quite mediterranean and minty overall). There also is grass, malt, lemon zest, pear (with blue cheese), peach and a trace of vanilla pod. It tastes less fragile as the nose would suggest – good grip on malt, herbs and wood. Water makes it more elegant. A good pick.

Score: 89

GlenDronach 39 y.o. OB 1972 – 2011 Oloroso Sherry Butt 712, 466 btl., 49,9%

Nose: The powerful and dry Oloroso makes itself heard right from the start, but there is so much more. We have fruits like plums (many), prunes, figs, cherries, orange zests and even a whiff of tropical fruit basket. We have spices like hot chili and ginger. And we have aromas of geranium earth in the flower pot on the balcony (sorry, that is the smell, maybe even guano sticks in there   ), unlit Cuban cigar, old leather, flowers, ginger bread, licorice, praline and rising dark dough in the oven.

Palate: Nice! And it is not too sherried or tannic (although clearly in that genre). I love the two worlds here: Dark and bright elements live in peaceful coexistence. Additional aromas are Spanish ham, mahogany wood, roses and old weathered oak.

Finish: It also finishes strong with an intensity that reminds me of older Japanese Sherry Malts – with their ups and downs.

Comment: I like this version a lot, but it is not my favourite Dronach – which probably would be the 1970 Signatory 20 y.o. at cask strength (there were three versions of this).

A note on the side: Awards are always won by very intense malts with upfront power. This is a result of the sheer number of malts to be tasted, the lack of time to deal with one single dram for a long time or even an evening and the positioning in flights in general. Sometimes less obtrusive but very complex and fragile drams are overseen and somehow missed. This also happens at fairs and tastings frequently. If people dealt with only one, two or maybe three malts a night (from very identical categories in head-tohead-mode to cancel out positioning-effects) I bet the results were a bit different. Nevertheless, this is an amazing whisky and a winner for sure.

Score: 92

Port Ellen 12 y.o. James MacArthur ‚Fine Malt Selection‘ 62,7% (released around 1985)

Photo: Langer (thanks!)

Comment: Holy yodeling Wolpertinger! Right from the start this intense yet balanced bottling has everything that makes (young) Port Ellen great – ahh, this maltiness in an antiseptic surrounding, just awesome. It is not as pale as I would have expected (hard to see through the green glass). The lead notes aside from the ones mentioned are soot, glowing embers, dirty tires,

Some Younger Port Ellen Bottlings

ropes and big peat but there also are tar, resin, bonfire smoke, herbs, salt, brine, pepper, green apples, lemons, diesel, honey, heather and sponge cake. A true monster in the nose. The palate shows brutal power and concentration with tingling spice (salt, chili), the aromas from above, sulphur and iodine. Needless to add that the finish is endless in length and complexity. What I personally adore is that it is becoming even sootier in the end. In a nutshell, one of the finest peat monsters I know.

Score: 94

Young PE Minis

Photo: nasawatch.com

However, I won’t push a wheelbarrow with peat to apply for the purchase of a young bottle, neither will I welcome a ship in a port with its peaty load nor am I becoming a rocketman – I am simply going to taste two exceptional drams from there just as the Gods of Ardbeg wanted it. This is how I obey, that’s my way of creating cult. But thanks for the invitation, guys.

My friend Michael – who deserves knighthood for this – gave me two samples of Ardbeg Single Casks that still mature at the distillery in Sherry Hoggies: a 1975 and a 1998. Something special already. As I own the empty sister, Sherry Cask #4716 bottled for Germany in 2002 (this cask sits in my cellar and was used for an Ardbeg rematuration), this is even more special to me. Let’s taste:

Ardbeg 1975 Refill Sherry Hogshead #4714 (sampled 27.09.2011, 45,3%)

Nose: Wow, what a great start for Ardbeg Day – it has the perfect balance and smell of good old Ardbeg from sherry

Photo: The Wine and Cheese Place

casks with enough power. I love the deep peaty tones, the soot and the iodine along with notes of chalk, sulphur, tires, overheated power transformator, herbs, tealeafs, camphor, cocoa, milk coffee, plums, pepper, oyster, sea air, lemon zest and other citrus components, also only a little wood (dark plank). Close to perfect, I would say.

Palate: Very similar to its nose, but milder, not a powerhouse – it could be a bit heavier for my taste. This also translates into the mouthfeel which also is a bit thin. However, the finish brings a growth of flavours again.

Finish: Now we’re talking! The magic is back, consisting of iodine, soot, sulphur, deep-toned peat, tires and plums. Nothing but great.

Comment: This work in progress should be taken out soon, but it also won’t suffer from becoming a 40 y.o., who knows what is planned with it. Some people say it won’t be bottled at all. Why that is, I don’t know. The old showcase cask? Whatever will happen, I wanna be part of its future .

Score: 93+

Ardbeg 1998 Refill Sherry Hogshead #2722 (sampled 27.09.2011, 53,9%)

Nose: Altogether the same DNA (deep peaty aromas, soot and put-out campfire, dirty tires, lemon zest, camphor), but with the usual hints of post-1997

Photo: The Wine and Cheese Place

elements like aloe vera, agave and other cactus’s juice. I am also getting aromas of Pu-Erh tea and pine resin. The sherry is very discrete but helps in terms of complexity.

Palate: Displays a good balance, this is not a wild beast yet it retains good power of spice and peat and the aromas mentioned. I can taste its potential.

Finish: Mainly on soot, peat, matchstick sulphur and tires but the complete nose appears in the distance after a while. And here it is, late but there: Chocolate and French roast coffee. Aaaaahhhhh.

Comment: This cask is pretty close to the old style, especially in the finish. I am quite convinced that it will come close to the old Ardbeg quality when it is over 20 years old – if they let it sleep.

Photo: The Wine and Cheese Place

With some patience, we will get wonderful old Islay drams like the 1975 from above again. Along with Port Charlotte and Kilchoman, Ardbeg will be stellar when it becomes older. The future is bright. Aside from that I think that inactive refill sherry is just the perfect wood to age Ardbeg for more than 15 years.

Score: 91+

P.S.: In November there will be an Ardbeg Vertical Tasting in Regensburg …

Joke or not - it is cult: The Ardbeg Galileo (Photo: ardbeg-whisky.ch)

„Die »Selección de la Familia« ist so etwas wie die ganz persönliche Botschaft von Iñaki Nuñez, erzeugt aus einer strengen Selektion der Sorten Merlot, Tempranillo und Cabernet Sauvignon. Logische Konsequenz, es gibt nur wenige Flaschen von dieser Essenz, deren tiefe purpurne Farbe traumhaft im Glas funkelt und zugleich die großartige, tiefe Konzentration erahnen lässt.“ – so der Werbetext. Mal sehen, was der Tropfen wirklich kann:

2003 and 2004 were great wines

Kommentar: Ein unkomplizierter Wein im besten Sinne, sehr gut balanciert, nicht zu maskulin, nicht zu feminin, getoastete Holzaromen dezent eingebunden in ein Netz von weichen Tanninen, saftiger Waldfrucht und ein wenig Würze. Auch der Cab-Anteil ist durch die Paprikanote zu erahnen. Eine Preis-Leistungs-Flasche erster Güte. Von der Haltbarkeit erwarte ich noch bis 2015 einen guten Genuss, danach wird er schwächer werden. Übrigens: der 2003er war ebenso klasse!

Preise: Concours Mondial Gold in 2007, International Wine and Spirits Competition Gold, Decanter World Wine Awards Silber

Score: 92 (2011/12)

The beautiful Estate

Imperial 16 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1995 – 2011, Bourbon Hogshead, 53,9%

Comment: A very fruity start on pineapple, peaches, apricot jam and banana accompanied by loads of vanilla, almond oil and sweet malt. I am also getting notes of oak, smoke, white pepper, herbal elements (camphor, green plants) and green tea. On the palate it is creamy and shows good balance. Aside from the aromas mentioned (here mainly peaches, green elements and a nice peppery spiciness) there are ginger and licorice coming through. This imperial duck’s highlight is the finish: very long and pleasant on vanilla, peaches and almond oil. Pretty darn good.

Score: 90

Clynelish 14 y.o. The First Editions 1997, 56,3%

Comment: This one is peppery and has quite some cask influence (more than the Archives version). Leather, apple and pear, green grapes and raisins are wrapped in a vanilla-malt quilt. And of course, the typical Clynelish features (visit link above). It has a creamy texture and can be drunk with or without water. A good dram.

Score: 87

Clynelish 14 y.o. Archives 1997, Bourbon Hogshead 4634, 160 btl., 53,9%

Comment: An amazingly fresh and coastal nose, mostly on apples, pears, lemon zest, wax, soft peat and moss. In the mouth it posesses a great balance: everything is there in good delineation, only the pears stand out. This one has some nice acidity to it as well and finishes just as good as it tastes. Recommendation!

Score: 89

Tomintoul 44 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Fungi‘ 1967 – 2011, ex-Bourbon Wood, 196 btl., 47,0%

Comment: Herbal and flowery (dried flowers) at first, then becoming oilier with vanilla, green bananas and some sour elements (lime). There is almost no wood, but a delicate mix with whiffs of tropical fruit, moss, ferns and brine. It takes some time to become more expressive, but then it rewards you. It tastes clean, a bit mossy and reveals tingles of a fruity sourness on the tongue. No water is needed. The finish has medium length. Altogether a good dram, but not too typical of the Tomintoul style. Big gulps recommended.

Score: 90+

Tomintoul 44 y.o. The First Editions 1967 – 2011, Single Cask ES 007/01, 50,9%

Comment: This one is more typical, very cristalline and clean with quite some power. It reminds me of the smell of a good peach hand lotion my wife owns (I know this doesn’t make sense). For 44 years it has not got much wood, but more than the Agency version. Wonderful aromas of banana, coconut, coconut oil, vanilla, nettles and mint complete this great nose. On the palate it shows perfect balance and should not be diluted with water. Again it makes clear that it is no weakling after all these years. I love the back and forth between cristalline fruit

Andrew Laing and his First Edition Releases

and spicy wood elemens. It finishes oily and vanilla-laden with discrete echoes of the Bourbon wood. A winner! Great pick, Andrew.

Score: 91+

Clynelish 15 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society, SMWS 26.82, 8.1995 (Soft Light at Sunset), refill Sherry Butt, 571 btl., 57,9%

Comment: Fruit-oils, farmyardy tones and fresh coffee join the above already mentioned trademark aromas – with just the right amount of sherry fusion. Peaches and big vanilla become bolder with time and set this apart from many other Clynelish bottlings. Also, sandal wood scents, macadamia and some shy berries appear. Soft smoke and spices add to the fruitiness in nice balance. The taste, which encapsulates all the mentioned notes, is wrapped in a vanilla cloud and needs no water. Only hints of sherry can be found on the sweet palate. It is more a creamy crowd-pleaser, a bit like a Starbucks vanilla coffee drink. Nice, though.

Score: 89+

Clynelish 14 y.o. Single Cask Collection 14. 07. 1997 – 13.02.2012, refill Sherry Hogshead 6891, 302 btl., 56,8%

Comment: A sister cask (#6888) from Bladnoch’s warehouses with 158l was auctioned at Krüger’s for 2.305 Euro. I should have bid then, I was tempted, but didn’t go for it. At the current bottle price of almost 60 Euro it is worth almost 10k – nice gain! Darn! This also shows that there is a lot of cask swapping going on behind the scenes as it becomes harder to buy quality whisky from distilleries. Well, let’s not cry over by-gones and taste the neighboring cask 6891: Being darker in colour than the SMWS, this Austrian choice has more dark wood, leather and spice, but bears many resemblances to the SWMS-version in general (the basic character, coffee, farmyard) in the beginning. The sherry

Clynelish Sister Cask sold in Auction

evocates dried fruit (sultanas, dates, red grapes and cherries) and fruit cake aromas and renders more depth. But after a while these two drams depart from each other more and more. Milk chocolate, almonds and walnuts ride in, welcome guys. It is also slightly more on the dry and coastal side. On the palate, the dark and dried fruits dominate, but are countered by powerful spice (pepper, chili). Toffee and woody spices fight in a long  finish that never seems to end, really. Wow! With water this Clynelish becomes more civilized and creamy, not better or worse, just more approachable … and there is way more chocolate. Maybe not the most typical, but: this cask seems like the more mature and bolder brother of the two versions of today – with lots of character and some dark sides to it. Very good and very interesting.

Score: 91-

Laphroaig 13 y.o. SMWS 29.102, ‚Cowboy’s Campfire Dram‘, 1998, Refill Sherry Butt, 64,1%

Comment: Holy cow! This reminds me of the sherried Signatory version from 1974, or even 1979 Talisker Cadenhead or the famous Brorageddon, all of these with their crazy flinty and sulphury aromas – I love this nose to death! Despite a lot of sherry influence, this isn’t flawed at all. Dark wood, cooked dark fruits (led by morello cherries and tons of baked plums wrapped in bacon), tobacco, pepper, freshly ground coffee, nougat and anything good that is dark can be found. I refuse to destroy this miracle by tearing it apart. Oh my God, it tastes like it noses with that good sulphur-, iodine- and peat action going on. Fabulous and close to perfect, also in the finish! Time travel? I kid you not when I say that this is probably one of the finest young whiskies I had in a very long time. This Monster-Laphroaig is a show stopper and today’s headliner. Encore! Get a bottle of this, it might become legendary.

Score: 93

Laphroaig 13 y.o. Malts of Scotland 3.1998 – 9.2011, MoS Sherry Hogshead 11007, 52,5%

Bottle on the right (find the typo!)

Comment: Quite hard for this one with such an opponent in a head-to-head – but it can hold its own! Again, much fuller than the recent Bourbon Cask versions without losing its balance or the wonderful distillery character (some Laphs are becoming too dominated by the Sherry or turn ‚blue-cheese-fungi-like‘ in sherry casks – as mentioned above). It is fresh, spicy (pepper, chili) and herbal (camphor), but also retains lemon and lime notes. The sherry is totally unobtrusive but clearly there and paints impressionist dots of distant dark fruits on the colourful canvas of this bottling. Coffee whiffs, minerality and chalk make it complete. The taste is equally as wonderful as the nose and a classic young Laphroaig from a less active sherry cask.

Score: 90+

Talisker 10 y.o. OB ‚Split Label‘ (bottled around 1887), 45,8%

Comment: A modern classic. Wonderfully coastal with fresh sea air, salt, oysters, peat, pepper and a subtle fruitiness (pears, peaches, apples, lemon squash)  in the background. Also pine needles and resin, iodine, soot, farmyardy notes and discrete oak. Altogether this one is a bit Brora-esque (with the smell of rain coming in from the sea), which is a good thing. In perfect balance. On the palate it is just as lively, balanced and complex and finishes on all the notes mentioned in soft echoes.

Score: 91

Talisker 10 y.o. OB ‚Split Label‘ for Da Bema (Italy), distilled late 1970ies/early 1980ies, 75cl, 45,8%

Comment: The Italian version is said to be even better, and it is older than the version from above. Let’s see: This one plays it closer to the chest at first, deeper in tone and less vibrant, briny and salty in fact a bit dead in the glass. Wake up, honey! Some earthy aromas limp out of the glass, also pickles. Strange. After ten minutes, the fruit, peat and pepper are coming out with whiffs of mahogani wood, also some coffee beans, heather and some malty tones. Don’t rush this one! It keeps on evolving. Unfortunately it drinks a bit like a good old blend, no real chili catch or other things associated with this great Skye Malt – however, it is very oily, if that style is yours. Just a good dram, but nothing more. Was that sample taken from a tired bottle? I will check … I am a bit surprised.

Score: 88

same outfit but a different bottling

Comment: This one is powerful and strong on alcohol. Water is necessary. I am getting fresh fruit, pepper, berries, oak, peat, some Oloroso dryness and whiffs of tobacco in general, the water makes the dram cleaner, more honeyed and better delineated. A raw version altogether, but not atypical.

Score: 87+

Springbank 40 y.o. Chieftain’s (Ian Macleod) 1968 – Oct. 2008, Oloroso Butt 1414, 398 btl., 54%

Nose: Quite typical, spicy (sea salt, pepper, this one has a Talisker-esque catch) and maritime. A lot of nutty aromas (hazelnut, coconut, almonds), sherry, Serrano ham, melon, wild strawberries, canned peaches, toffee, vanilla and oaky tannins.

Palate: Again on the spicy and woody side, but not going over board with this profile. The notes from above become clearer once you add water, which I recommend, it really levels things out here and renders greater balance.

Finish: Without water it finishes a bit too dry, but H2O makes this really good stuff. It is in line with the Chieftain’s releases of the past. So go for four or five of those instead of this one, I’d say.

Score: 91-

Glen Keith 22 y.o. James MacArthur 1976 Celebration of 500 years of Scotch Whisky 1494 – 1994, 51,2%

Nose: Vanilla cream, a freshness and tropical fruitiness (mostly on passion fruit and peaches) caress the nose. Wonderful white oak aromas, latte macchiato and chard plant can be found as well.

Palate/Finish: It tastes more herbal than expected; green tea, then sweet malt with honey, vanilla and tropical fruits on its back lead into a rewarding finish.

Score: 90

In case of the Peat’s Beast, things are the same (‚untamed‘, ’not for the faint hearted‘, ‚monstrously peaty‘) but also a bit different. It is a Single Malt, a peaty one of good quality, but not from Islay. Of course, I would also underscore its peatiness to sell it to the phenol crowd. It is easily missed that it is no Islay Malt. Rumour has it that it is a BenRiach.

The friendly people at Kammer-Kirsch were so kind to provide German whisky clubs with a sample bottle, which I find a good way to introduce a new release. Let’s not judge this book by its burnt monster cover:

Peat’s Beast (Fox Fitzgerals Ltd.) Single Malt, 46%

Nose: Farmyardy and peaty in general, it renders elements of bonfire smoke, resin, pepper, Granny Smith apples, lemon zest, coffee beans and chalky oak. Brine, fallen autumn leafs and discrete vanilla sit in the backseat.

Palate/Finish: Just like above – and some green maltiness. The coffee and stable aromas lead into the finish with nice sulphur, peat and even iodine. The chalk joins in later. Not the most complex dram, but a very nice addition to the ‚everyday-peat-genre‘ – and one for a blind tasting ! This is not inferior to Islay’s releases of that kind.

Score: 85

Octomore 5 y.o. ‚Comus 04.2_167‘, Bourbon/Sauternes Casks, 18.000 btl., 61%

Nose: Octomore finished in Sauternes Casks (Chateau d’Yquem) – not as peaty and strong as the mere facts would suggest, the Sauternes is there from the beginning, having a calming and smoothening effect on the rough Islay dram altogether. These two worlds meet here and make it unusual: Islay (peat and bonfire smoke, tar, white pepper, hot chili, herbs, camphor, resin and fresh sea air) and d’Yquem’s Sauternes wine (apricots, peaches, apples, honeysuckle, toffee caramel, butter, vanilla, almonds and macadamia). The winey shoe fits, I think – in fact, this is one of the most intense Sauternes influences I had in a while. Daddy like !

Palate: The palate is a bit hot and nervous, mainly on herbs, peat and camphor, but in the back the grapey fruitiness hangs on, making it somehow voluptuous. No water needed.

Finish: Peat smoke, resin, burning embers, sulphur and chalk, then some of the wine’s influence. Quaffable stuff. But the very first edition was even better and deeper.

Score: 88+

Port Charlotte 8 y.o. Malts of Scotland 14.12.2001 – 2.2010, MoS Bourbon Barrel 967, 220 btl., 60,2%

Nose: This one is weird at first, like a mentholated cigarette, or more like a peated Benedictine herb liqueur. Smells healthy to me, just like a chest rub. Definitely unusual. These first aromas take to the background after a minute, giving way to vanilla and the more typical PC character traits (oysters, peat, altogether rooty). Somehow this is really plant-like, THE gardener’s dram. The more you wait the more it becomes a son of Islay. Chalk, wet sheep wool, almonds, tobacco, citrus notes and pepper round it off.

Palate: This dram can’t be serious. Now it shook off all the Benedictine and healty stuff and tastes more like old Ardbeg (minus the iodine-tire-mix), I kid you not! Some dashes of water are needed. It is on the dry side, also reminscences of Port Ellen come to mind, but on a less complex level.

Finish: Late matchstick sulphur and chalky dark wood accompany the notes of the palate, very intense and lingering.

Score: 90+

Bowmore 40 y.o. Duncan Taylor Peerless Collection 5.1966 – 5.2006, Cask 3317, 171 btl., 43,2%

Comment: Amazing, one of the best 1966 versions out there, full and grand! This one has much more than the crazy fruit-berry-mix. Recommendation!

Score: 94-

By the way: The sister cask 3317 (5.1966 – 8.2006, 43,5%) is almost as good: 93+

Bowmore 36 y.o. Hart Brothers 5.1966 – 10.2002, 40,0%

Comment: Discrete and noble in style, yet typical. A bit less on kitschy fruit and more on the wood. Many friends score it slightly higher.

Score: 93-

Bowmore 33 y.o. Duncan Taylor Peerless Collection 11.1969 – 2003, Cask 6085, 42,5%

Comment: Of course, slightly peatier than 1964-1968, but it somehow holds back more than others, slightly less expressive.

Score: 89

Bowmore 43 y.o. ‚White Bowmore‘ OB 1964 – 2008, Bourbon Cask, 732 btl., 42,8%

Comment: Classic 1964 profile from the start with its uber-cristalline tropical fruitiness and loads of berries, wine gum, ozone and all that jazz – really fresh and not woody throughout. Close to a perfect nose. In terms of taste it is mindboggling-good as well, but it lacks the intensity that the younger versions had – but that is splitting hairs. It is as elegant and subtle as possible, but could simply use a bit more weight to reach olympic status. It sounds funny to recommend big sips for this dram at a price of 3.000 Euro a bottle, but that is key for getting more out of it, just like it should be done with the Laphroaig 40, another fragile beauty. The medium-lengthy finish reverberates the nose wonderfully. Altogether, this is already on the wane after 43 years. Great stuff, but the best Glenglassaugh, BenRiach and Lochside are easily on par with Mr. Whitey. Well, who cares, I loved every second we could spend together.

Score: 93

Springbank 45 y.o. OB (Mini-Series from around 2000), 46%

Comment:

Springbank 40 y.o. and 45 y.o. Miniatures (left)

Something salty to start out with, Springbank it is. Unfortunately, the 40 y.o. version suffered from its cap and tasted very metallic – a very sad end for such a dram – unscorable, but one could still grasp that it was a fantastic whisky. However the 45 y.o. was fine and resembled just to a trip in a glass because it kept changing. Being softly sherried, cookie-like, maritime and immensely salty, this has quite some distillery character at its core. Pepper, fine discrete oak (after 45 years!), sandal wood, and toffee are joined by many nutty elements (coconuts, walnuts, macadamia and peanuts) and some fruit (passionfruit, melon). On the palate, all aromas from above are wrapped in old sherry and show off their balance, the finish reverberates this but is a bit on the short side. Historically and experience-wise great, but not as great as the 35, 25 or 30 y.o. Millenium Editions (in this order).

Score: 89

Lochside 44 y.o. The Coopers Choice 1967 – 2011, Single Malt Whisky, Sherry Butt 802, 320 btl., 41,1%

Comment: There is another version around with 41,5% (Cask 807), both reputed as okayish, but not great. Let’s check that: Cask 802 has a very fresh, clean and citrus-oriented nose at first, almost Riesling-like. What’s amazing again is: after all these years there is such discrete wood influence (dark wet wood, but no obvious sherry notes) but huge focus on distillery character. We also have big grapefruit, gooseberries, cassis, apricots, marzipan, milkshake-flavour and nice flowers in spring. It lacks power in the mouth, that is the only downside, but I can forgive that due to this fragile profile. The finish is longer than one would expect and underscores the elegance of this dram.

Score: 91-

BenRiach 40 y.o. OB 1971 – 2011, Cask 1947 (Batch #8), 229 btl., 49,8%

Comment: I only had a tiny amount of 1,2 cl to taste but it was enough to say that this bottling has everything what makes old BenRiachs special: cristalline fruit, lemons, tangerines, grapefruit, pineapple, vanilla, unobtrusive wood and a sightly herbal edge. Aaaaahhh!

Score: 92-

Preview:

For Easter, I have packed Auchentoshan 1957, White Bowmore, Ardbeg cask samples from 1975 and 1998 OB, some great wines and more – stay tuned and have a bunny-good time!

Highland Park 21 y.o. First Editions 1989, 50,9%

Comment: A round and powerful first impression with lead aromas of crystallized oranges and orange peel, fudge toffee, vanilla, discrete peat smoke, honey, white chocolate and dry malt. In the second row there are glazed doughnuts and candy floss, dusty bookshelves, leather, white pepper, ginger and peat bog notes. The fruity elements (aside from the oranges) consist of canned peaches, red currant and apple crumble. Complex, I’d say. This ‚HP sauce‘ tastes dry and malty on the mid-palate at first, then warming spices and dried fruits (mainly apples) lead into a very well-rounded finish with a mix of the aromas mentioned above. However, it is less impressive than its nose suggested – give this some time. A really good daily dram for allround purposes.

Score: 87

Macduff 11 y.o. Whisky-Doris 15.11.2000 – 19.11.2011, Sherry Butt, 54,8%

Comment: A spicy sherry nose hits big time. These two main elements battle, which makes the dram alive and nervous but also somewhat unsettled … depends on what you like in your whisky. The sherry, which evoked raisins, prunes and other dark fruits in this dram, is more of the matchstick kind (again a question of preferance) and not fully integrated yet. Oak, peaches, smoke, blue cheese dressing and moss jump on board of this wild Speyside spice train (white pepper, bell peppers, chili, cloves, licorice and ginger). Water brings out farm notes and toffee in a creamier style. Long oaky finish. This is an interesting and complex dram – wild though – that might not appeal to everyone, but if you like spicy Spey malts, this is just right for you. It would go perfectly with Nachos.

Score: 83

Ardmore 19 y.o. Whisky-Doris 18.06.1992 – 25.08.2011, Bourbon Barrel 4652, 197 btl., 49,6%

Comment: Wonderful fresh, clean and fruity nose, very seductive with whiffs of peat, moss and soot, all perfectly balanced. Kiwi, apricots, orange zests, limes, grapefruit, cider, vanilla and berries make this dram appear much older than 19 years. Its elegance makes it a rather atypical Ardmore. On the palate, it also delivers! What a perfect allrounder. I have a peaty start with mossy undertones, then berries and the ripe fruit ride in, just like a recent Dom Perignon (which have discrete mossy peat and earth), amazing, then the peat comes back, wrapped in vanilla and apricot brandy. No water, please, it is perfect as it is. The medium-length finish is not the most intense because of the finesse this whisky posesses, but it leaves you with the desire for a second glass – or an entire bottle. Very late, there are sulphur and nice gunpowder that erase the fruity memories. Wow, what a great ride! Usually, only old bottles offer such profiles. Great choice, Doris and Herbert!

Score: 91

Chateau Closiot 2006 Sauternes ASC 13,5%

Comment: I could get a really cheap lot with Closiot 2005 (already reviewed) and 2006, which is said to be the better vintage. In general, I tend to go for the bigger names as it is really worth it with Sauternes/Barsac wines, e.g. Rieussec, Suduiraut and some other ones that really deliver.

The Owners

However I couldn’t refuse the good offer and received a good Sauternes that only lacks a little finesse and acidity to be a great one. Everything is there, but not as defined as in the great ones. This chateau (4,5 h) is historically attached to Chateau Coutet (classed growth).

Score: 89

Seppeltsfield ‚Rare Tokay‘ 1983 Rutherglen (AU), 17%

Nice Line-Up

Comment: Rare stuff, this Tokay from Australia. Their vintage Ports that date back to the 19th century rank among the best sweet wines ever made. This Tokay is from their medium-aged stock. It boasts a mix of Australian wine aromas and dark cooked fruits (loads of raisins, some figs and blackberries as well). Dark chocolate and whiffs of tobacco complete the nose. It tastes very sweet, the soft acidity can’t counter that. Nice, but no stunner.

Score: 92

Seppeltsfield 1909 Para Vintage Tawny Port 100 y.o., 23,7%

Comment: I had the sister cask from 1910 and score it at 100 points, my first full score (see here). This is also made from Mataro, Shiraz and Grenache grapes from Barossa Valley and matured in a Puncheon (500l) for 100 years. Again I am in awe. The colour alone is opaque olive brown with a green edge and the oily viscosity is amazing. But this is pricy stuff (37,5 cl for 1000 Aussie-Dollars). Let’s see if it can rival the perfect 1910: The nose is full of tar, resin, glue, cloves, Blaukraut (cooked red cabbage from Germany) and coffee at first. Then there is a strong nutty character like in a fine Nocino, dark chocolate and balsamic whiffs. Great again, but not as complex as its sister. The ultra-big weight on the mid-palate is nutty and resiny with amazing acidity left after all these years. Morello cherries and dark chocolate join in for a great finale. High class, but I’d clearly go for the 1910.

Score: 97