BIZARREBQ-RELEASE

The latter one I could taste recently. Ardbeg states: „The connection to the topic of barbecue is not only made by the smoky notes of the peated malt, but also by the element of fire: double charred Pedro Ximénez sherry casks and specially developed „BBQ casks„, which were extra charred in an old-fashioned brazier, help the Ardbeg BizarreBQ to a special sweet-spicy-smoky aroma.“ – I found this dram successful and round, quite sooty and the pronounced notes of sweet smoke fit well. 90 points – although I categorize this as a typical version close to an Uigeadail, yet slightly more BBQ-ish.

ARDBEG ‚HEAVY VAPOURS‘ 46%

For Ardbeg Planet Day 2023 (June 3rd, online already on May 23rd) the release of Heavy Vapours is scheduled, the stronger Committee Version comes online tomorrow (25.04.), both at a price point of 135 Euro.

This expression has been distilled without the influence of their usual purifier being present on the still. The spirit has been laid down to mature in ex-bourbon casks. The purifier-apparatus on the still is responsible for maintaining Ardbeg’s balance between extreme peat and floral fruitiness as it catches „heavy vapours“ and redistilles them. Without it, what will happen?

Actually, I find the difference way smaller than expected. The ‚Heavy Vapours‘-release remains a classic and flawless Ardbeg, and it is round! The nose sports more coffee, chocolate and coal smoke than usual. There is also a greenish touch in the aroma (Mezcal-agave, Aloe, hops), but this stems more from its young age, I guess. Hot transformers, gun cleaner oil, chalk, tar, iodine, tires, earthy peat, antiseptic spray and more Ardbeggian insanity complete the intriguing nose. It tastes even more ‚ardbeggy‘ as I thought. No rough edges here, maybe a tad less sweet, more bittersweet I dare say. Smoke wafting in and out, nice dustiness, darker. An interesting yet not dramatically different Ardbeg experience. 89 points.

I have waited for this like a little child. The Supernova releases thrilled me, so what will this 170ppm phenol monster bring to the glass? Educated whisky drinkers know that the ppm content of the barley is not necessarily the defining number for tasting peatiness in the make – which Octomore shows occasionally. The phenols should be measured in the whisky instead because loads of reactions and proceedings strip away peatiness along the production process and during maturation (I can explain more in tastings if you are interested). So watch out, some parts of this peat race are a gimmick.

However, the 1970s Ardbegs had huge smoke. One should measure and compare e.g. a 1972 with the Hypernova to see numbers. I am so curious. Let’s hope it is good:

Comment: Yes, Ardbeg nose, pale colour, around 8 – 10 years, I guess… but way more farmyardy, also a bigger concentration on tar, camphor, burning green herbs and coal, less of the sweet BBQ-style at first. Composting pile in front of a mine? With time it becomes more typical, all is there, aromas like peat, soot, iodine, milk coffee, caramel (Dulce de Leche), tires, ointment, chalk, burnt oak, white pepper, weapon oil, old brown bandaids and plaster, but somehow different in array. The smoke is big, yet not as monstrous as I expected it. It renders the effects described though.

On the palate and in the finish, this becomes a real winner! Peated mocca! Sweeter now than it was to expect from the nose, a smoky chocolate bar with salt sprinkles meets sooty iodine. So Ardbeg, peatier, huge … yesss. The finish is deep and eternal. Powerhouse, but not hurtful or sharp at all – it has the thin silhouette in the middle that classic Ardbeg possesses. Maybe some time in the bottle makes this even better, I already love this project.

Is this worth the 210 clams? You decide. I bought some and look forward to cracking it open.

Score: 90+

Cognac Jean-Luc Pasquet Lot 68-72 Grape of the Art #3, Cask 21, 66.6%

It is very nice to see more high level Cognacs around these days. The guys from ‚Grape of the Art‘ followed that path and went for a Pasquet, a great house. This 1968 and 1972 vintage mix comes from great times. They chose to bottle it at full cask strength, which is not always a success with fine grapsters, but on the other hand, they achieve a power and ‚rumminess‘ they seek (according to their website and mission statement, as they started out with rums as their first choice). Read up on them here on slowdrink in a previous article. Now let’s put this bad boy on the road:

Comment: The abv-level of 66,6% is a tour de force, hence the spirit is closed at first. You need time and probably some water. It comes across amost like a Demerara rum in moments, I kid you not. Nevertheless its classiness shines through. I am getting spices and dark wood, gingerbread, nuts, white pepper, geranium, dandelions, licorice and Turkish delight. A minty freshness, tar, resin, banana, dates and sultanas chime in into this atypical yet impressive nose. To become more Cognac-like, you need to add water as it changes the Pasquet pirate for the better – then it explodes with aromas. It is fun to play around with water here, and it keeps changing along with it. On the palate it remains a wood-driven powerhouse a la heavy rum or Bourbon but with water, rancio, berries and finesse is right there for you. The finish revisits all of the above.

A verdict is difficult, it depends on your taste. Classic Cognac lovers need to add water and it might be a tad too brutal for them. Caroni or Port Mourant fans and connoisseurs of heavy spirits like whisky might absolutely go for it. Choose your side and give it a try.

Score: 90

Armagnac Domaine Cutxan 2006 – 2022 Grape of the Art, Cask #T37, 50,5%

Comment: Made from Ugni Blanc grapes grown in Bas Armagnac, this is a worthy follow-up to its predecessors. The boys had a good hand in picking winners. It starts with a nice grapiness and juiciness, the oak is well-tuned (good balance), Asian spice, gingerbread, licorice, vanilla, dried apricots and peaches, orange peel, lychee, nut cake with milk-chocolate glaze and a trace of leather. It goes down the road of the ‚Le Freche‘ a bit. Water is not necessary but it profits from some drops. On the palate, it shows power and spiciness, then the fruit follows. It has quite a bite, raw tads and corners, unpolished, also a bit ‚rummy‘. The water brings more fruitiness and makes it creamy. The finish delivers grapes and spices from before, becoming fresher and finer.

Score: 89

Some fine older Dickels came from Cadenhead’s recently, and the distillery is also diversifying their portfolio. Dickel always was the drier of the two famous Tennessee drams, and I passed by them quite often when I lived there. Watch he spelling of whisk(e)y, another clear hint to its origin. Let’s try the clan’s version:

Tennessee Whisky 18 y.o. Sour Mash, 2003 – 2021, New American Oak Barrel #12, 156btl., 50,8%

Comment: As always with Bourbon and such, give it time to unfold and lose the acetone. You will be rewarded. It starts with vanilla, creme brulee, maple syrup, painted fence in the summertime, honeycomb, orange zest, coconut, macadamia nut, catnip, cinnamon, cardamom, grilled marshmallows, dried apricots, figs and dates, summer forest floor, sweet yeast dumpling (Dampfnudel), warm oak with Asian spices. Great balance, lots to nose… . On the palate it becomes wonderfully sweet, accompanied by a slight woody bitterness to counter. The sour mash can be tasted, the wood and spice have the say and are tightly knit. Then a nuttiness joins in. It is becoming warmer, sweeter and softer by the minute and leaves you with a smile – a long finish of fine complexity causes that. Winning pick!

Score: 90+

Unser lieber Freund Stefan Bügler – einer dieser Menschen, die die Freude am Whisky großzügig teilen und einfach angenehme Zeitgenossen sind – ermöglicht Euch nun einen Blick hinter den Vorhang mit drei wirklich exklusiven Whiskys von St. Kilian, die das Potenzial der Brennerei zeigen. Passend zur Idee heißt diese Serie ‚Whisky Folks‘. Jede Abfüllung für sich ist eine Empfehlung und interpretiert das Rüdenauer ‚Water of Life‘, gebrannt am gleichen Tag – völlig anders – durch die Wahl der Fässer:  sehr hoher Lerneffekt … when the peat meets the sweet …

St. Kilian ‚peated‘ PX-Hogshead 666 (American Oak), 18. Januar 2017 – 30. April 2021, Whisky Folks Private Cask, 433 btl., 60,0%

Kommentar: The number of the beast – klasse Fassnummer mit dem Titel ‚pleased to meet you‘! Und da ich gerne handfeste Vergleiche mag, dies wäre der Ardbeg der drei Fässer (hinkender Vergleich, aber Ähnlichkeiten), die Geschmacksfarbe wäre braun. Torf, süße BBQ-Sauce und Jod, Reifen und Teer, dann Pinienharz, antiseptisches Spray, Spur Vulkanschwefel, Kreide, Kalk, Waffenöl, alte Hütte, Stall, Kaffee, auch Zitrusfrüchte, Datteln und Rosinen – dazu eine diskrete Sherrynote, die im Geschmack wesentlich deutlicher wird und gut eingewoben ist. Am Gaumen gesellen sich außerdem Leder, Pflaumen und Burnout-Reifenspuren hinzu, ein BBQ am Torf-Bauernhof. Gebt ihm Zeit, tolle Entwicklung, langer Abgang. Sweet peat, dirty core – 666 eben. Noch zu haben für 69,90 Euro (siehe Link unten).

Score: 89

Hier der Link zum Shop mit der ganzen Story: St. Kilian | 666 Whisky Folks Private Cask | Wein-Riegger Onlineshop

St. Kilian ‚peated‘ Bourbon-small cask (Garrison Bros., TX) 498, 18. Jan. 2017 – 08. Sept. 2021, Whisky Folks Private Cask, 86 btl., 61,2%

Kommentar: ‚A Cowboy called Peat‘ heißt diese Version und stammt aus einem 50l-Fass der texanischen Brennerei Garrison Brothers. Ich befürchtete zuerst eine zu krasse Holzigkeit, da diese Fässer echt enorme Kraft ausspielen, doch hier hat es spitze funktioniert. Dies wäre der Caol Ila der Serie, um bei diesen Vergleichen zu bleiben, seine Geschmacksfarbe wäre ein blasses Gelb. Wir haben hier neben dem Torf eine Mineralik, Austern mit Zitrone, Grapefruit, Mentholfrische, Wacholder, Olivenöl, Kunstleder, weißer Pfeffer, etwas Jod, Anklänge von Mezcal, Gurke, Eisen. Gelegentlich kommen durch das kleine Fass sogar Rum- und Bourbonanklänge durch, Kokos, Vanille, Marshmallow und Gewürzkaugummi (Zimt, Kardamom). Eine echt ungewöhnliche Nase, die gefällt, aber Zeit braucht. Am Gaumen ist der Cowboy kristallklar, leicht trocken, jodig und mineralisch, das Holz ist in genau der richtigen Dosis eingesetzt worden, auch Frucht kommt schön durch. Im Abgang wird er dann süßer und lässt die tolle Aromen-Kombination nochmals aufscheinen. Feines Ding. Für 74,90 Euro noch erhältlich (siehe Link unten).

Score: 89

Hier der Link zum Shop mit der ganzen Story: St. Kilian | 498 A Cowboy called Peat – Whisky Folks Private Cask | Wein-Riegger Onlineshop

St. Kilian ‚peated‘ first-fill Oloroso Sherry Hogshead 674, 18. Jan. 2017 – 30. Aug. 2021, Whisky Folks Private Cask, 446 btl., 59,6%

Kommentar: ‚Oloroso Glorioso‘ wurde diese Abfüllung getauft, sie entspräche in meinem Dreier-Typvergleich dem Port Charlotte oder einem 1990er Bowmore in Momenten, die Geschmacksfarbe wäre ein bräunliches rot. Industriehalle, Gummistiefel im Torf, Traktorreifen, Kräuter, gereifter Parmigiano, pilziger Waldboden im Herbst, Tannenharz, gesägter Baumstamm, Feuerstein und Mineralik kommen später dazu, auch Wildleder und kandierte Orange. Der edle Sherry bringt dunkle Früchte wie Trauben, Trockenpflaumen, Datteln und Sultaninen mit ein. Am Gaumen zeigt dieses Fass gute Balance, alles hallt wieder in leichter Trockenheit, Sherry, Würze und Teer kämpfen und umspielen die Geschmacksknospen, die im Abgang mit einer dezente Süße von jodigem Charakter und Salz versöhnt werden. 74,90 Euro für diesen dunkleren Burschen, sie Link unten).

Score: 89

Hier der Link zum Shop mit der ganzen Story: St. Kilian | 674 Oloroso glorioso – Whisky Folks Private Cask | Wein-Riegger Onlineshop

Fazit aller drei Drams: Ein lehrreicher und schöner Vergleich und eine Empfehlung. Holt Euch, solange es geht – Szenestoff!

Within the LVMH organization Dr. Bill has already implemented such dark malt at the Glenmorangie Signet version- unpeated though – and one can really taste the difference in terms of chocolate and coffee aromas there. How does this roasting work on peated malt?

As usual, there are two versions to look out for: The Committee Release with 50,1% (April 26th) and the Ardbeg Day Edition with 46% (May 17th), both priced 125.- Euro in Germany. I am going to drink these head to head now:

Comment: Let’s cut to the chase – this clearly is Ardbeg with its typical features, great quality as most of the times. Only nuances differentiate these dark roast versions from the regular distillate, the effect seems less in a peated environment, I guess. The strong phenolic elements might interfere with the experimental roast malt because usually the difference is recognizable.

As to be expected, the 46%-version comes across way more opened on the nose, on the palate, the 50,1%-release takes the trophy though. Give the latter lots of time.

The 46% has an impeccable balance and gives us more of the roast effects. The focus is on BBQ-sauce, coffee, chocolate, roasted steak, soot and vanilla. I am also getting thistle and aloe, deep peat, iodine, sweet smoke, suede, charcoal, tar, resin, mustard seed, oatmeal cookies and antiseptic spray on old bandaids.

The stronger version is greener over all and plays it close to the chest. Peat, hazel, aloe, herbs, chocolate, tar, tanned leather, resin, tires, hot transformer and phenols are the main characteristics, it takes time to open up. However, in the mouth the strength in abv is an asset, and it turns less green. The soot, lively acidity and iodine along with typical Ardbeg tastes make this a winner as well.

Both versions punk well. Hard to decide – let’s call it a tie.

Scores: 89 – 90 (both)

Just like us, they want to share their passion for fine grape juice, esp. Armagnac, with the world and with whisky connoisseurs in particular. They sampled, traveled and learned that only few products match their expectations. So they wanted to change that and import themselves. They aim for unaltered and undiluted single casks of high quality, a road less traveled but so rewarding. The boys don’t limit themselves to Armagnacs only as their third release is a Saint Lucia Rum.

Let’s try their first releases:

Armagnac Domaine Le Frêche 13 y,o, GotA #1, 2007, 57%

Comment: This was found in the cellars of L’Encantada and stood out for quality, the cask only rendered 150 bottles at cask strength. I am stunned how mature it is after ‚only‘ 13 years. An amazing nose, dense, juicy, powerful yet balanced and with quite some rancio already. There are marzipan, assorted glazed nuts, leather, vanilla, dandelion, marigold, pepper and fruit (plums, raspberries, morello cherries, red- and blackcurrant, berry tea), Indian joss sticks and incense. Deep, dude! In the mouth it starts drier than expected and a bit demerara-esque. Licorice, mahogani and furniture polish, concentrated grape juice with dark fruitiness, chocolate raisins and spices. The heaviness carries on into a wonderful finish that leaves you craving another glass. A worthy first pick!

Score: 90

Armagnac Domaine Séailles 20 y.o., GotA #2, 2000, 54%

Comment: The second release has a nice unearthing story, let me quote: „Today we introduce you to Domaine de Séailles from Ténarèze – a small, artisanal wine & Armagnac producer founded by the Labérenne family and now passionately run by the super sympathetic winemaker Julien. By a stroke of luck, we followed a road sign as we passed through and ended up at a rustic and lovely estate. There we were allowed to explore the entire atmospheric warehouse (with chandeliers!) and were just blown away by the variety of styles!“ Again, cask strength, no additives, a single cask, 195 bottles of joy.

And yep, they picked another winner. This is sporting brighter fruits and oaky elements like caramel, vanilla, Asian spice, pepper, cedar – white oak? It is even more complex than its predecessor. I find glazed pastries, marzipan, nuts, rancio, flowers, tea, fruits (lemons, plums, chriies and berries) and this succulent red grape juiciness. It tastes excellent, even better than the nose, less wood now, more fruit juice and rancio, a complex balance with echoes of the nose. Elegant finish, very quaffable too. Super!

Score: 90+

Rum Saint Lucia Distillers 15 y.o., Chairman’s Reserve for GotA & Rum X, 2005, 61,5%

Comment: A real authentic rum that aged in a Bourbon cask in tropical climate only- wow. The make consists of 50% John Dore and 50% Vendôme. And what a funky fella‘ this is, holy cow. Not for beginners, sweet teeth or faint-hearted, more for us suckers of ‚da dirt‘ Imagine a small plastic producer’s backyard near a forest on which all kind of junk is stored: old paint, tar, diesel, rubber, dried-up glue stick (Pritt), bruised blood oranges, bananas and limes and the production hall smells on the side – weird but nice. The forest freshness and earthy tones I am getting now are joined by hints of vanilla, salt, leather, ground pepper, spices (cinnamon, cardamom), minty gum, licorice and black olive tapenade. On the palate it arrives oily and dirty as expected. Sour battery acid meets sweet minty lemon drop (Gletschereis candy), olives, rubber and pine cones. It is becoming sweeter with fruit, almonds and spice, huge complexity, rewarding finish. Don’t get me wrong, it is an unusual and funky one, but very interesting and of high quality. But you should be into such rums.

Score: 87+

Good luck, boys, and thank you for letting me sample – carry on!

Consequently, this new Ardbeg is of great learning effect. It represents a taste stemming from much longer fermentation due to a broken boiler in November 2007: three weeks instead of 72 hours, the longest in Ardbeg history! I don’t know if the yeast stopped working for a while during the cooldown. The Ardbeg team, led by Dr. Bill Lumsden, opened the washbacks to allow Islay air penetrate more intensively. An experiment was born. Dr. Bill always wanted to find out the effects of longer fermentation and the boiler accident presented itself as the chance to see. Fitting the long fermentation, a longer maturation time was granted (13 years). Ardbeg fans, be excited for this one.

Comment: This is a typical spirit-driven Ardbeg of the good kind, to start out with. The nose is a stunner, very balanced and old-school Ardbeg, sweet peaty joy. I am getting a smouldering forest fire here, loads of pine and beech smoke, soot, resin, tar, sweet BBQ-sauce, sulphur and big iodine (which I love in such drams). Of course, tires, leather, coffee roast, milk chocolate, chalk, aloe, menthol, lemon drop and herbs are there too. Also some food analogies: A burnt steak with black pepper and chili rub comes to my mind somehow. Despite the discrete wood (I guess mostly refill) there is vanilla creme with toffee sauce for dessert, some orange and apple slices on the side. All this is so enticingly sweet, harmonious and well-integrated. I expected way more funk, but this is a fine and pronounced smokiness with deep iodine and phenols.

On the palate, this has the slim and drinkable profile that is so typical of Ardbeg. Mild start on spritely, minty and acidic tones, then it builds itself up towards spice and burning embers. Round again, quaffability is king.

It finishes on depth! Iodine! Peat, tanned leather, old wood, salt, soot and chalk – and this great sweetness again.

Altogether I think the longer fermentation resulted in a profile from older days of Ardbeg in parts. Iodine, a spice-laden maltiness and round integration of all aromas are to mention. I am getting a bottle and drink it with an old friend!

Score: 90

Join the Ardbeg Committee to get your bottle (in Germany, this is 8th February 2022)!

Cognac Jean-Luc Pasquet ‚Organic‘ 2006-2021, Cask 27, Grande Champagne, Kirsch Import, 50,1%

Comment: This is as ’single‘ as it gets! From their own hand-picked organic grapes, this eau de vie was self-distilled on gas, and filled into single casks. I kid you not, it starts out like a Calvados. So many apple aromas (pie, green apple, compote, tart tatin) and vanilla jump out of the glass, then big banana, pears, raisins and butter join in. Sandal wood and oak are also playing a major part. Fresh linen, lime-infused cake glaze and white chocolate complete this unusual but harmonious nose – fresh!

On the palate it arrives sweeter than expected, mainly on baked apples, butter and oriental spice. Round and sound – winey acidity, grapes and yes, Calvados, show up. Very alive!

It finishes on medium-length with spice from exotic woods, fruit (apple, banana, grapes) and vanilla pod. A wild and unusual ride with a fresh experience in the field of Cognac! One to learn a lot from …

Score: 87-88

Cognac Vallein Tercinier ‚Small Batch‘ 41-43 – 2021, Kirsch Import, Bons Bois, 78 btl., 48,2%

Comment: A rare Single Estate and cask strength Cognac gem from WWII. which is now sold by a German importer – how times have changed for the better! That alone is heart-warming. It has spend its life in cask until 2006, then in Dame Jeannes (glass balloons). Let’s nose: ooops, who put the Bowmore 1968 in here? Almost kitsch in terms of fruitiness (passion fruit, guava, papaya, pink grapefruit, apple, lychee, plum, raisins, cherry) and berry aromas (all kinds, cassis etc.), uber-fruity, joined by minerality and the discreetest old wood – almost purely spirit-driven! It also plays fir twigs, moss, humidor, rancio, vanilla, lilacs, violets and so much more – in perfect balance like a finely tuned stereo!

It builds itself up on the palate, from mild to strong, from floral, acidic and wood-spice elements to huge exotic fruits, berries and a nutty rancio aspect with sweets! An amazing development in my mouth! I recommend big sips here – don’t miss this!

The finish should be illegal! All is reunited like on a huge water colour painting in which every now and then another highlight shines out. A piece of art, and not tired at all! Amazing pick with history – get it!

Score: 92

Cognac Bache Gabrielsen American Oak (Double Maturation) VSOP/4 y.o. for Kirsch, Single Cask, Fins Bois, 64,1%

Comment: This is a crazy one, very unusual. The producer with Norwegian roots is known for going modern and special ways in Cognac maturation. We loved the blue XO at cask strength from 15 years ago. This new release for Germany has spent its life in French and Tennessee oak and the Ugni Blanc grapes came from the Fins Bois region. Not your classic stats. But boy, taste this powerhouse. Heavy Hervé-style :).

With this one you can fool most people at a tasting – mix it among the whiskies and nobody complains. The mature nose is clearly showing American oak characteristics like vanilla, pineapple, banana, peaches and coconut. The grapes and raisins play second fiddle. Also there is some marzipan and white oak. Basically like a Pina Colada from the Charente! It tastes and swims well, no off-notes at all, vanilla-cream-style, and: more cognac shines through now. Honey, flowers, espresso, creme brulee, hints of tropical fruits. The sheer power is fun and the balance is surprising. Of course, it is no complexity monster after four years of maturation, but it tastes darn good! Not for cognac purists, but great for whisky fans and people who love to transgress borders. Simply a good drink. Stay curious! The long finish leaves you puzzled by what you just had. Cool and fun choice!

Score: 87

Finest Jamaican Rum, over 25 years old, Duckhammers / Wu Dram Clan, 164 btl., 50,1% 

Comment: I love the label. And estery rums. So let’s dive into the parrot’s feathers: Often older Jamaicans lose their funk, but here it is well-preserved yet more balanced and mature – a great nose! It starts out with old brown bandaids soaked in iodine, olive tapenade, almonds, ripe banana, star fruit, hot mulch, glue and bitumen – all with a sweet overtone, enticing! Gletschereis drops (a classic German sweet for refreshment from way back, lemony-minty in taste) meet caramelized burnt sugar, licorice, veggie stew, burnt raisins, roots, fence coating colour can, malaga ice cream (rum-raisins), Yuzu and Sicilian lemon.

It tastes likewise and so goooood – noble funk! Milder than one would expect (great alcohol integration), all on high class, lending itself perfectly for the early session of estery rums – or for an introduction into this category on highest quality. Long finish! I NEED MORE.  On the side, this probably is the most guyanese Jamaican I had, which is not a bad thing – both worlds meet here. Wow. Me want parrot now!

Score: 90+

Ledaig 25 y.o. Wu Dram Clan / Duckhammers / The Whisky Kingdom / Kyoto FWS 1995 – 2021, Hogshead 143, 50,6%

Comment: Education first: The peated Tobermory has risen to stellar quality in the vintages 1972/73, when they shared the malted barley with Brora, Talisker and such, as rumors go. Try and you know what I mean. After these years, Ledaig somewhat changed into a lesser peaty, leathery dram with somewhat volatile distillates, not often bottled. Only after 2005, the heavy peat returned with partly great results and higher outturns in the indie market.

This specimen is a perfect example of an outlier of the good kind. I am glad the Wu-sters dug up this one. After a great younger Kraken which I loved, they follow up with the second octopus.

The nose clearly is in the in the sour-fruity and spicy camp, autumnal somehow (fallen leaves), very nice and off the beaten track. At first I am getting tangerine, raspberry, kiwi, kumquat, grapefruit, peach, lemon drops, ginger, malt, yeast, leather, willow wood (aspirin, anyone) and glazed nut pastries. Inriguing mix. There also is sheep wool in a woollen mill, wet earth and discrete peat, hay, ginger bread, hazelnut, vanilla, incense, licorice, egg salad, brine and pepper. Compexity! It keeps getting fruitier by the time.

On the palate it is powerful and laden with spices, sour fruits and leather. Old wood meets shoe shine on fine leather brogues, willow branch, peach and licorice again. Water is not hurting it, try as you please.

It finishes long while becoming sweeter, the spices remain, nuttiness also joins the crescendo. The perfect dram for this time of year on a walk through the forest. Beware of tree krakens!

Score: 90

Ardbeg 20 y.o. OB 24.05.2001 – 10.06.2021 Wu DRAM Clan’s Private Reserve, Refill Bourbon Barrel 348, 155 btl., 46,6%

Comment: Let’s start by NOT arguing about its price. It is a personal decision to splurge on great booze, which this undoubtly is, and such are prices of Single Cask releases by Ardbeg or DIAGEO these days. No one has to buy, so leave it there. I think it takes big hairy balls to bring such babies to the market. So kudos – why not! We don’t judge price , only quality matters.

Many people were so keen on trying this. I am glad to be in the position now, I gave it two sessions. Not the shabbiest of moments :).

A typical Ardbeg right from the start, the refill Bourbon barrel allows the oily spirit to shine. Weapon oil (Ballistol), tires, burning pine cone, iodine, peat, leather, ointment, tarry rope with kelp, lemonized oyster, chalk, minerality, coal, aloe, menthol and mezcal, dirty harbour smells, cannon smoke – the whole spiel of a great Ardbeg in sweet background, aaahhh.

It tastes even better than it noses as it takes the direction of old-style Ardbeg now on leather, soot, flinty smoke and pine resin – no off-note here, just classic mature South coast Islay goodness with the typical slim and sweet profile in the middle, which every Ardbeg should have (sorry 8).

The amazing finish swells with iodine, soot, peat, flint, chalk, hints of espresso and burnt tires. A very good mellow cask that takes us back into the 1970s for moments!

Score: 92

Today on September 7th, the new manager Colin Gordon and Dr. Bill Lumsden send a third release into the ring, sourced from American oak and ex-Oloroso casks. On the label it actually reads ‚Bottled: In a lockdown‘. It took a while as it was stuck in the UK for months due to Covid-related shipping issues, but now the wait is finally over. Let’s go into the infight:

ARDBEG TRAIGH BHAN 19 y.o. Batch 3, 46,2%

Comment: A group of pot-smoking cowboys on sweaty horses rubbed with ointment underneath their old leather saddles ride into a coffee roastery while firing their guns in the air. After that, they clean their silver pistols with Ballistol oil, have some hot chocolate, milk coffee, others sip on Pu Erh tea, sherry or even lime juice, one replaces his iodine-soaked bandaid, another one writes ‚Islay Renegades were here‘ with chalk on the blackboard of offerings, one removes the nettles, thistles and resin from his socks and boots, as they all rode in from a nearby peat bog Sorry, but it noses like that. It is a wonderful and typical Ardbeg on the sweet and leathery side with discrete Oloroso influence. I am also getting nuts, completely nuts, and white pepper. Older style indeed, complex and balanced.

On the palate the fired weapons rule over all the other aromas, really cool – I love this profile. However, it is a bit too thin and low in alcohol to fully keep the amazing promises of the nose – for me. Some might exactly like this subtlety. Big sips help. This is suitable for being served in the middle of a tasting session to start the peatsters. Then it shines.

It finishes sweet, sooty and kelpy with loads of iodine. It grows on you and goes the long way if you let it. Now the cowboys have a BBQ on the beach after a storm. Join them and get a bottle of this noble Islay dram. The George Foreman of Ardbeg whiskies, or was that Axel Schulz?

Score: 89+

P.S.: Here is the official tasting note in German:

Ben Nevis 24 y.o. Wu Dram Clan / Duckhammers / The Whisky Kingdom 1996 – 2021, Bourbon Hogshead 1408, 290 btl., 45,6%

Comment: Aaaahh, a spirit-driven, waxy fruit bomb that develops. Gooseberry, white peach Bellini, grapefruit, passionfruit, kiwi, baby banana, yellow plum, pineapple, caramellized blood orange, redcurrant, wild strawberries and meet vanilla, gorse, New World Sauvignon Blanc, whipped cream, coconut, macadamia, fresh linen, latex (yes!), white pepper, ginger powder and discrete oak.

On the palate it delivers in balanced and gentle yet growing manner. The 45,6% are fine, just fill your mouth. Sour fruit compote, salty brine, exotic fruit, chocolate, kurkuma, ex-Bourbon oak, toffee, all very well-integrated. It is getting bolder by the minute and finishes big and fruity.

Drink this in bigger sips for full pleasure – rather early in a tasting session. I love its subtle details of excellence like in a fine watercolor painting. A tropical treat from the Highlands, Wooooorrrd!

Score: 91

Cognac Grosperrin No. 71 Heritage 1971 – 2021 – for Flickenschild – Petite Champagne, 52,3%

Comment: This was chosen as a Malternative at full proof – a Cognac for whisky drinkers that Guilhem Grosperrin inherited somehow (it was originally sold for two NGOs) and took care of it. Now it was bottled exclusively for Flickenschild / whizita.de. The story is on the bottle to read up on. Let’s taste it:

The oak is playing a role after 50 years, but it is well in check – malt heads will enjoy this (vanilla, pepper). Floral elements (lilac, lavender, violets, roses, mint, lemon verbena, flowerpot) meet glazed lemon cake (Amerikaner), white chocolate, cinnamon and nutmeg. Beeswax, tobacco… more and more aromas emerge, it needs time to unfold. Then nutty rancio joins in and many (dried) fruits like apricots, lemons, limes, orange skin, wild strawberries, mirabelles, lychees and gooseberries. Complex and balanced, the alcohol is well-integrated.

On the palate sweet and sour elements battle like in a familiar westernized Chinese duck recipe. All in all, it is darker now. Raisins, figs, dried apricots, nuts, lemony tastes and waxy maturity make their presence felt.

The finish takes you on a journey through all the stages from before, very exciting and long.

Score: 89

Jean-Luc Pasquet Cognac Lot 68 – 72 Kirsch Import Limited Edition, 1968…1972 – 2021, Fins Bois, 59,1%

Comment: This multi-vintage assemblage (1968 – 1972) from the Fins Bois was Sebastian’s first pick in his role as grape ambassador for Kirsch Import. And these crus really combine into a super power. A dream of a Cognac, which wasn’t to be expected from its sheer stats – such stuff usually vanishes in the blends of big houses. With this example you can discover how great this alternative way can be, I am so glad it was bottled this way – read why:

Enticingly sweet, nutty and leathery start, a tightly-knit and balanced potpourri of darker elegance. A fist inside a velvet glove. Juicy, balsamic complexity, quite some rancio, soaked spice cake, cherries, dates, maracuja, kiwi, cristallized orange, marzipan, macadamia, nutty pastry (Nusshörnchen), chocolate, vanilla, juniper berries, tobacco, humidor. Crazy!

It tastes as good as it noses, more berries like cassis chime in into the complex mix, even black truffles can be found. And it swims well, try water too, just amazing. This is truly a legendary cognac.

The crescendo leaves you crying for more of this awesome grape juice. Amazing pick! With each tasting session you love it more as it has a drinkability despite its power. Don’t buy, leave more for me !

Score: 92

Before I differenciate, both have the Caroni funk and typical traits for these years:

Common notes of both: Jungle undergrowth, banana skin, camphor, ointment (Ichthyol), iodine, resin, sanitary napkin, tar, scented tobacco, fresh mint, rose stems and vanilla – all in all a heavy load, almost overburdening the palate. Let’s go from crazy to nuts:

CARONI 1998 – 2021 Single Cask Trinidad Rum, Cask #2109, 226 btl., 62,2%

Comment: This is the rounder and fruitier one with berries, more accessible and not as dry as its partner – aetherial clouds of aromas somehow. Along the notes above I am getting a deep and spicy impression, huge complexity. Berries, dragonfruit, babana, plum, orange zest, rum-raisin ice cream (Malaga), leather, bitumen, jute sack filled with coffee beans, cinnamon chewing gum, ski waxing workshop, glue, cedar wood, forest floor, mulled Christmas wine (nutmeg, clover, cinnamon, ginger, red wine, etc.), daisies, poppy seed pastry with sugar icing (‚Mohnschnecke‘), new car oil and what not – a crazy ride. It is intense yet balanced, spicy and fruity on the palate, water straightens it out and pushes the berries and tropical fruit center stage, but it can be enjoyed pure as well. The finish is long and soothing. However, we are talking heavy duty here over all.

Score: 91+

CARONI 1997 – 2021 Single Cask Trinidad Rum, Cask #59, 224 btl., 60,6%

Comment: This is the spicier, drier and dirtier one, it bites like a jungle viper – no prisoners taken. Tar, licorice, old oil, resin, olive tapenade, hot mulch from jungle wood, rotten banana skin, nutmeg, pepper, chili, burnt caramel, cocoa, juniper berries, painted pine cone and quite some wood influence. A Voodoo Monster that will split the audience. The palate is a full-on attack, peppery spices and woody dryness bite with adstringency, then relief, wow, dryness gone suddenly. Banana, oak and undergrowth are dominant. I recommend water for this one, as it levels out the aggression and allows the subtle berries and fruit to be discovered – but it also depends on your daily shape. On some days, pure is fine – a great one either way. Somewhat brutal but complex, and therefore, very entertaining. Muscle rum, looong finish!

Score 90

So choose which style you prefer – or get both. Stellar rum that won’t become cheaper and gets rarer by the day. WU!

As a pre-release, the somewhat stronger Committee Edition has been released now (115 Euro). The 46%- version will follow from May 25th on for the same price at embassies, online and in shops. Go get Colin Gordon’s inaugural release.

This scorchy Ardbeg was matured in heavily charred white oak casks (ex-Bourbon). Knowing former expressions, this is a winning formula for me. It just works magic on the peaty spirit, adding a sooty and sweet environment that elevates iodine, tar and BBQ-notes. Let’s see:

Comment: Yes, winner. The charred casks rendered an old-style cokey Ardbeg that takes you right into a rainy pit lane on a racing track: tarry tires, diesel, wet gravel (chalk and flint stones), oil, driver’s leather gloves and what not. We also smell hospital notes like old bandages, antiseptic spray, big iodine, cough pastilles and camphor. Nuuuurrse, please! The third world I get teleported to is a BBQ at the beach with grilled lobsters and herbs, a fish smoker (Arbroath Smokie), olive spread, coal fire, sweet smoke, soot, peat and embers, BBQ-sauce, honey-mustard dip and cocoa nibs for dessert with fine tea. Somehow the Scorch keeps all these together in good integration and harmony. Additionally, there are fired pistols, black liquorice, saddle leather, burnt cake, pepper and chili-flakes, resin, plums, vanilla and oak. Big and bold. On the palate is also appears bigger than usual Ardbegs, more spice, green elements lead in and get burnt away by the big black smoke of heavenly sooty sweetness, aaah. Iodine, peat, all crazy stuff from the nose reverberates here. A powerful, sweet, smoky and harmonic finish ensues this pleasure sip for chimney sweepers. Complexity and joy. Well done, little dragon!

Score: 89+

Beschreibung: Der recht helle Tropfen ist zwar einerseits sofort als Ardbeg zu erkennen (Torf, Jod, brennender Trafo, Reifen), weicht aber im Bereich Süße deutlich ab – er präsentiert sich trockener und „baumiger“, womit gemeint ist, dass sich viele Spuren des Eichenholzes finden lassen: Würze (Chili, Pfeffer, Wasabi), Harz, Vanille, Lakritz, Weidenast, Wacholderbusch, Nussschale und Räucherkammer wären ein paar davon. Diese Holznoten sind nicht dominant, machen diesen Ardbeg aber weniger Destillat-getrieben und weniger ausbalanciert. Der Roggen gibt indirekt eine gewisse Härte, man riecht Getreidekörner, Bohnen heller Kaffeeröstung, Kreide, Gurkenglas, Teerdach, Torfrauch, Distel, Nessel, Manchego-Rinde, helle Zitrusfrüchte, Birne und Banane.

Am Gaumen tritt der Arrrrrrrdbeg eher trocken und mild für seine knapp 52% an und folgt seiner Nasen-Aromatik. Die typische schlanke Mitte dieses Destillates ist vorhanden, aber die Süße ist zurückgehalten. Vor allem Erdnüsse, Eiche, Gurkenwasser (oft in Rye-Whiskys auffindbar) Teer und Harz treten bei mittlerer Reife in den Vordergrund.

Der Nachklang wirkt zuerst klassisch, klingt jedoch weicher und schlanker bei mittlerer Länge und im holzigeren Kontext ab. Torfwärme und Jod, Kokosschale, Paranuss und Teer verbleiben im Crescendo.

Als Fazit ist festzuhalten, dass ich überrascht war, wie sehr doch die Rye-Vorbelegung einen Ardbeg verändert, ein sehr spannendes Experiment. Dieser Dram wird mit Sicherheit im Reigen diverser (Nach-) Reifungen seinen Platz und seine Freunde finden. In Deutschland ist er ab dem 09. Februar 2021 für 150 Euro erhältlich. Arrrrrrgh!

Bewertung: 87

Beschreibung: Wir haben ihn im Team probiert und fanden den Traigh Bhan II sehr gelungen. Uns gefiel die mineralische Kalkigkeit, seine Typizität („der ist ganz klar ein Ardi“) und die Komplexität, alles rund und wertig, für große Schlücke. Man kann seine Reife deutlich wahrnehmen, da sind massig Sekundär- und Tertiäraromen in Esterform gebildet worden. Auch viel Jod, antiseptische Pflaster, Reifen, Trafobrand, Teer, Milchkaffee, Feuerstein, Streichholz, Leder, Zitrone, Pflaume, grüne Kräuter (auch Tee), Tomatenmark, Chiliflocken und Aloe Vera sind zu finden. Und natürlich Torfrauch, der aber viel mehr transportiert als in wilder Jugend. Man wünscht sich ein paar mehr Umdrehungen, das ist aber das einzige Manko an diesem wirklich feinen und kompakten Ardbeg – ich leg‘ mir sicher einen zu. Er erinnert an seinen Vorgänger, der süß-cremige Abgang ist ein Traum.

Bewertung: 90 Punkte

Having been a brandy buff and collector for many years, the situation is exciting for me and our club. Slowdrink has always been focused on being open for various drink categories. We have released Brandy many years ago, I met with great producers to learn, educated people in tastings and at fairs about it and I blend products and judge ‚grape juice‘ in competitions. So finally our enthusiasm is catching on. Therefore, I forgive the lack of experience and knowledge of some newbies in this huge and difficult field for the love of many new Cognac and Brandy lovers who come from the whisky world and expect equally high standards of quality and transparency. This helps Brandy too … and it helps whisky people develop finer sensoric skills because Cognac and its brothers are way harder to differenciate.

The grape distillers did many things long before whisky producers did, and many Scotch and Irish techniques originate in France and Spain as Cognac was the main noble spirit of the world back then and for so many years – phylloxera helped other fine spirits become visible but Cognac stayed king way into the 1980s. Nowadays it lost some track in Europe, but this is about to change – if the Charente learned from mistakes and can adapt. I also see a rise in quality in Grappa, another very exciting drink distilled from pomace.

Cadenhead, LMDW, SMWS, Maltbarn, WhiskySponge and others have started to release single cask Cognac and Armagnac recently, some great, others atypical. Woody and fruity brandies like those of Vallein Tercinier become sought after because they can offer what only very expensive old Malt Whiskies render in terms of matured esters (e.g. Bowmore fruit and berries) despite not being typical. The departing from burdening tradition has negative sides to it but I like the general development to a large extent and wish that a broader variety of producers and crus will follow soon. We will also release something again in the future. Stay tuned!

Come to a tasting and learn more, e.g. rancio, boise, prune juice faking, wine choice and crus, oak differences etc. – Brandy is awesome and historical.

Our friends at Wu Dram Clan joined the crowd recently and have released a very old VT from a single cask from the renowned cru of Grand Champagne. I feel confident to test-drive this baby now:

Comment: What makes older VT great is the immense complexity. We have it here too. A mix of spicy (cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla, pepper from wood, oriental spices), fruity (crystallized fruits like apricots, plums, figs, sour cherries, apple rings and berries), floral (violets, lilac, elderflower, marigold, daisies), bitter (lemon and orange peel, Italian apero bitters) and sweet elements (white donut, sugar-coated pineapple, marzipan, marshmallow) in fine harmony boggles the mind. What a spirit, so vivid yet mature! Little to no rancio. It is slightly on the woody (hey, it is 53 years old!) and floral side on the palate at first, then the big wave of aromas follows suit. It lands so softly and mildly, more berries and cassis notes emerge. As a single cask, it has atypical and exciting moments. In comparison, the VT Hors d’Age is darker, rounder and sports quite some rancio, this version is spicier, drier and more complex, a wilder ride all in all. Hold on tight, it is a world-class Cognac that will blow you off the rocker if you like it wild and challenging!

Score: 90+

Verkostung: 4,7% weniger Alkohol also die Committee-Version, gleiches Vatting? Schwer zu sagen. Ich bin gespannt. Auf jeden Fall ist der Pinot Noir-Einfluss deutlicher als beim Committee, Kirschen und Erdbeeren, alles gut eingebunden, schnell verfliegend, dann alte trockene Holzplanke, Senfkorn, Leder, viel Rauch, Jodsüße, heißer Spielzeugeisenbahntrafo, antiseptische Pflaster, Teer, Kohle, Ruß, Tannenzapfenfeuer, mineralische Elemente (Kalk, Kreide, Muscheln), Salz, Schokolade und Kaffee, sogar Bittermandel und Vanille. Am Gaumen gewinnt er gegen die Vorversion, hier ist das Weinfassthema wirklich gut eingebunden, die Ardbeg-typische Süße bleibt erhalten und zieht sich durch bis in den mittellangen Abgang. Süffig, filigran, alle Elemente angehaucht. Der Cloudy Bay-Spätburgunder (Neuseeland) hält sich eher zurück, gibt aber positive Einflüsse und zähmt den Ardbeg bzw. sortiert ihn. Eine Schoko-Kirsch-Torte, die versehentlich auf dem Räucherofen stand. Kein Brecher, ein eleganter Altrocker in Tweet, im Ledersessel sitzend – spannend. Selten, dass die „dünnere“ Variante den Sieg holt. Ein gelungener Ardbeg, gefährlich trinkig und sicher kein schwarzes Schaf!

Bewertung: 88

Cognac 49 y.o. ‚Petite Champagne‘ 1970 – 2019, barrel, 49,2%

Comment: We don’t know the producing house but I have a hunch. It is very well-balanced, and no overboarding wood disturbs the pleasure full of nuts, plums, pineapple skin, tobacco smoke, Oyster Sauce, flowers, Asian spices, fruit cake with dried and caramellized fruits. Medium rancio though, this is more on subtleties on the lighter side – it unfolds lik an onion, give it time..it gradually becomes darker in character. medium-long finish. A high class Cognac, very typical. Not a 1960s-Bowmore-esque Berry Bomber, though (if you search for that unsusual profile).

Score: 89 – 90

Irish Single Malt 29 y.o., 1990 – 2019, barrel, 48,5%

Comment: When Irish Malts become this old, they become rare and expensive. Also did the load of older Emeralds dry recently, so this is really cool. This dram is still malty and has some wood spice to counter enormous tropical fruitiness, berries and lemongrass. Creamy, milky too, somehow: pineapple-vanilla milkshake, anyone? On the palate it plays out its strength the most: Mangos meet berries and blackcurrant. Yeah. I am a sucker for uber-fruitiness. Medium-length finish. Maybe not the best Irish from these years but certainly a great one. Got me a bottle…

Score: 91

Irish Single Malt 21 y.o., 1998 – 2019, barrel, 51,3%

Comment: A good age when usually fruitiness explodes in Irish drams. Is this in its prime yet? Yes. Wow, I like it. Bushmills 21, but more naked. Fresh and fruity, berries, vanilla, blackcurrant. All the way well-balanced, icecream topping quality. Absolutely typical, recommendation.

Score: 90 – 91

Irish Single Malt 16 y.o., 2003 – 2019, barrel, 51,9%

Comment: How does the youngest Irish contender hold its own? It is a nice example of a grassy and lemony version, discrete oak influence (spice), coconut too. Creamy, fruity, smooth, honest. Pistacchio. A good dram.

Score: 88

Littlemill 27 y.o., 1992 – 2020, hogshead, 52,3%

Comment: Thyme on roasted lamb, other Mediterranean herbs, pineapples, apple juice, Pak Choi, vanilla pod, pine cone, traces of Bourbon. Fragile and elegant all the way.

Score: 91

Secret Highland 34 y.o.,  1985 – 2019, hogshead, 47,0%

Comment: I like the pink grapefruit in this (hint – hint), nice old profile with big fruitiness and no offnote, fresh too, so spirit driven. Mangos, berries, blackcurrant, pineapple, maracuja and what not. Is there a smoked pink grapefruit? It would taste like this. Who needs distillery names

Score: 91+

Arran 17 y.o.,  2002 – 2020, Barrel, 49,2%

Comment: Spices on apples and pineapples, coconut, cappuccino froth, vanilla, peaches, Tarte Tatin, honey, pear cider, rosemary, Marshmallows, ozone, mossy brine. A fine Arran.

Score: 88+

Ben Nevis 23 y.o., 1996 – 2020, hogshead, 47,6%

Comment: Lychee sweetness, peaches, mango, herbs, roses, Alpine cheese, vanilla, apple crumble, sugar-coated nuts, honeyed malt, sandalwood candle, almost no wood. Amazing Ben Nevis from a great vintage for this distillery, fruitier than usual. Wow. This is en par with the Maltbarn release from last year which I adore as well.

Score: 92

Ledaig 25 y.o., 1995 – 2020, hogshead, 48,5%

Comment: Quite an aged Mull malt, rare indeed. The peat is secondary here, broken down into coastal aromas now. Malty, chalky, mineral, salty, briny. Air-dried ham, kiwi, peaches, melon, Atlantic seabreeze, wool, windswept sheep shack wood (sorry :)), leather, pepper. A pan of scallops deglazed with Vermouth and whisky. Aaah, this grows on you with every sip.

Score: 89+

Comment: Release the Kraaaaken! Cool label, thanks to Boris for providing me with a sample. I am a sucker for Ledaig anyway. Let’s taste: Very clear and focused, no nonsense peated Mull malt: immediately a bath of island peat, nice sweetness too, like digging herbs from wet earth. Aaah, historic shoe wax on polished Italian calf leather Oxfords, green apples and tea, pineapple, Lardo ham, stewed plums, tar and quite some chalky minerality (Loire wine). It evokes several images in my head like grey wood planks on an old windswept shed, freshly shorn sheep wool (no joke!), sea shells and Galician octopus cooking in a creamy Rias Baixas white wine reduction with herbs – high class! This is a very elegant version (compared to sister casks I had). It also shows great balance with enough power and a well-dosed oak influence that renders a seductive sweetness to the leather-peat-Island Combo. Long and complex finish that echoes the mentioned aromas and turns nicely flinty. Super choice, boys, I hadn’t expected this great quality from the stats on paper. One of the finest younger Ledaigs out there! Recommended.

Score: 90

This sample arrived late due to postal issues with Covid-19. I was so happy when it made it. Great to see an addition to Ardbeg’s core range, especially as this ‚Little Beast‘ has an age statement. The five years don’t worry me, peated whiskies are way more drinkable in younger years than normal ones. Of course, you lose some complexity but gain sheer power on the other end. However, a higher abv would be even more to my liking… but this has to fit newer palates in the market as well, so this is ok. And, forgive me, it really looks cool. The contents were taken from Bourbon and Oloroso casks, refill, I would reckon. Let’s have a dram:

Comment: Powerful and typical, extremely smoky (like thick clouds packed into a hole in the earth – quite mezcal-esque) and direct hit. No mash aroma, this is good antiseptic and peaty Ardbeg. Altogether it has a greener profile (herbs, green tea, pear, apple, Aloe, pickles) and spices are key (pepper, leather, jalapeno). It also sports chocolate, chalk, flinty sulphur, lemon dash, prosciutto ham, cold brew coffee and vanilla, even shortbread and a hint of cherry brandy. However, my beloved iodine is tuned on low. Not low on complexity, but wilder an greener than usual. On the palate you can detect the rounding-off effect of the sherry casks (well done), the Ardbeggian sweetness is there – and big smoke. Still balanced, not overpowering, not weak, just about right. Vanilla, and „welcome“, iodine, green elements, fired guns, leather and discrete old wood. Nice long finish. No monster, a good Islay Mezcal Proven: For this whisky, no weird finishes are necessary. Absolutely recommended for its price below 40 bucks.

Score: 88

Comment: No worries, this is an Ardbeg nose, at first on the sooty and smoky side. Typical features like peat, iodine, antiseptic spray, tar, sulphur, leatherbag, hot transformator and green herbs are right here. However, the wine casks left their traces: somehow this Ardbeg is drier due to woody oak tannins (and cedar). Resin and more aromatic smokiness than usual. Also I am getting a rooty aroma that reminds me of small cask maturation. Later, strawberries, raspberries and cranberries chime in discretely. Nice and unusual, I must say.

On the palate the wine casks speak way louder. The tongue hits a dry oaky wall at first, tannins stripped the beloved Ardbeg sweetness in parts. Not as balanced and slender as usual. The elements unfortunately don’t integrate so well altogether.

The finish is a bit shorter than usually in terms of Ardbeg but it builds itself up nicely, smokily and sooty. If you like dry Islay styles, this is for you – but it departs from the typical south shore tipple. A good whisky but not en par with an Uigeadail or a Corry, if you ask me. But I like to try out new things, and this finds fans for sure. Taste and decide for yourself, don’t follow the herd: „Baaaaaah!“, goes the sheep, tame in nature, shorn to be wild.

Score: 85+

Andreas Isopp

I like it when things are done correctly, thoughtfully, nerdy. Such is the case with the freshly launched rum importer ‚Rum-Exchange‘ run by Andreas Isopp. Our friend Andreas does source real rums and bottles them at cask strength without any additives – all that with full transparency, partly even informing on the place of maturation  (tropical > continental). Some of his rums even undergo finishing in Sherry casks. As a side note, the bottles really look cool. Now let’s review their taste, starting from early to latest release date:

#001: Jamaica – Trelawny 5 y.o., 2013 – 2019 Oloroso Finish, 355 btl., 61,5%

Comment: This, of course, is a rum from Hampden Estate.  It aged in ex-Bourbon casks for three years, then it was transferred to Oloroso wood for the remaining period of aging. Usually I am sceptical of Sherry finishes in rum, but with a funky and dry ester-monster, it might just add nice dimension. And exactly this happened. The sweet Jerez wine compements and fits like a glove, it polishes not too much of the exotic spiciness and leaves brighter fruitiness alive. Really exciting! One of the finest rums in the last months, I have to admit. I am getting leather, snus tobacco, many spices, very mature tropical fruit, citrusy elements, multi-vitamin-juice that is starting to ferment, resin, tar, and: pressed sour cherries. All these aromas are well-integrated and play with each other peacefully: earthy funk meets sweetness and leaves you craving another sip to grasp this complexity. What a great first release!

Score: 91+

#002: Jamaica – St. Catherine 5 y.o., 2013 – 2019, Ruby Port Finish, 350 btl., 59%

Comment: Same idea as above, yet a different sweet wine and distillate from Worthy Park, which I usually adore. However, this one worked out only ok, not great. Port finishing is difficult though. This rum aged four years in tropical climate (Bourbon cask) before it was ‚deported‘ (forgive this pun) – one year Port finish in continental climate left its marks: the distillate is tamed (some mnight love that), for me a tad too much. It is tightly-knit and oozes raisins and various kinds of berries, Jamaica reggaes on in the background only (aromas of an empty leather bag of weed, dark wooden pipes, orange and lemon zests, maybe even Usain Bolt’s rubber running shoes On the palate the aromas still battle, tensions can be felt. The wood influence is a bit doctored, but I think this rum has many friends who are into cask-driven whisky and rum. Junkies of typicality might dislike it. Anyway, a very interesting and tasty learning experience (Jamaica vs. Port).

Score: 86

#003: Belize – Traveller’s Distillery 10 y.o., 2019 – 2019, ex-Bourbon (tropical aging), 300 btl., 60,8%

Comment: Traveller’s Distillery struck me as a great source for naturally sweeter rums (Middle American style) with some weight to them, something for the sweet teeth ready to step up a notch on the ladder of quality. And this release lends itself perfectly for converting people to real rum. A very mature nose with ample oak hits the nostrils like a pastry, more in a style of old Domenican Republic releases at first, but then it shows its home Belize in clearer ways: Vanilla, caramel, fat nutty oils (Macadamia, almonds, coconut) and cedar wood rule over lime blossom, honey, cinnamon and cream. Spicy elemenst chime in (chili, resin, kurkuma) to set a counterpart. The palate is more elegant than you would expect from such a baroque nose, this rum is never cloying yet sweet n‘ oily – roasted sugarcoated nut heaven which lingers on quite a while. The wood spices balance the sweetness here. A maelstrom of sheer goodness if this style is yours.

Score: 89

#004: Guyana – Port Mourant 11 y.o., 2008 – 2019, 250 btl., 58,3%

Comment: PM, my favourite mark. And it is a brighter version of demerara juice which gives me great hopes for an excellent spirit-driven experience. YES! So typical of Port Mourant, which I consider as one of the finest distillates around. Sorry, but wow: I succumb to this great complexity and balance in such a powerhouse. Wet humidor, olives, band aids with iodine, grilled Sunmaid raisins, snus and Virginia tobacco, bruised dates, tar … for a start. Then mentholated sweet drops („Eisbonbon“), prunes, warm mulch, polished magogani, Romeo y Julietta cigars (unlit), leather, vanilla, licorice, pine cones, pepper and diesel come to the fore. A carousel of crazy aromas, so wonderfully awkward yet fitting together perfectly. A full-score nose! On the palate it is less wild,  sweeter than expected and very balanced. It shows high drinkability and Finesse, an exciting rum. If only it had not been tamed this would be the T-Rex. An absolute recommendation at this price below 90 Euro!

Score: 91-

#005: Barbados – Foursquare 2009 – 2020, 59%

Comment: This is a preview, the rum is not released yet (probably at the end of March). Thanks for the advance sample, Andreas! So we Keep this shorter: you can expect a great natural rum again, very balanced and soft for its make. This Foursquare is fresh and displays lemon balm, coconut, vanilla, green tea, herbs, chewing gum, mulch, cedar, soft smoke, olives, licorice, cinnamon, kurkuma and peppers. Something for everyone, also for hotter days. Elegant Barbados.

Score: 88

We would like to wish Andreas Isopp the best of luck in the business and hope to get more of such fine rums! Maybe we even team up for evil elixirs in the future Reward his efforts, get ya‘ some!

Kommentar: Toller erster Eindruck, noch eindeutiger als das Standard-Destillat, reif wirkend. Hier ist Jod, starke süße Rußigkeit, Torf und Kaffee stehen sofort im Raum, Fischräucherofen, Wildleder, Tabak, Moos, Kampfer-Sauna-Aufguss, Trafobrand, H0-Schienenöl, Kreide, Vanille und Schokolade, dafür kaum die Aloe-Note und Eukalyptus (ich nehme dies anders wahr als die offizielle Verkostungsnotiz). Genau meine Baustelle, keine Schärfen und doch so komplex und würzig. Im Mund wird er tatsächlich mentholischer, dann zündet das Islay-Feuerwerk, das in perfekter Balance zur Süße steht. Erdloch-Lagerfeuer-Kaminkehrer. Aaahh. Kein reines Powerhouse, eher rund und süßlich-rauchig, wie eine gepimpte Barbecue-Sauce. Der Abgang bringt schöne Rauch-Schwefelwolken zum Torfruß, Arbroath Smokie-Planke, abgefeuerte Kanone, Harz und Jod. Man will sofort nachschenken.

Score: 90

Aroma: Wunderbar balancierter und typischer Neunziger-Ardbeg (sweet n‘ deep), der schon die kaktusartigen Aloe Vera-Anklänge späterer Jahre aufweist. Keine Offnote, gut, jodig-tief, würzig und vegetal (Tomatenstauden), wirklich fein und zwischen den Gegensätzen leicht und schwer wandelnd. Hauptsächlich findet man Torf, Teer, Harz, Kalk, Gerbleder, Milchschokolade, Kaffee, Ananas, Zitronenzesten und Paprikapulver. Zwar bemerkt man die Sherryanteile nicht direkt, doch indirekt verleihen sie dem Traigh Bhan Tiefe.

Geschmack: Kohlig-vegetaler Antritt, alles eher leicht, dann süßer und schwerer werdend durch Jod, Torf, Harzrauch, Teer und Leder – auch klassisch und gelungen, Ardbeg mal elegant.

Nachklang: Mittellang, erdig-torfig, stimmig. Wer auf puren und gereiften Brennereicharakter steht, mag diesen Vintage Islay. Bitte mehr davon!

Bewertung: 90

Entsprechend des Karneval-Mottos erwartet uns laut Dr. Bill eine prächtige Aromenparade im sommerlichen Stil, da der torfige Tropfen in amerikanischen Rumfässern nachgereift wurde. Das Committee-Bottling hatte 52% und kam bei uns gut an (89 Punkte), hier stehen wir bei 46% in strohfarbener Eleganz. Ich bin gespannt, wie sich diese Ausmischung im Vergleich verhält:

Verkostung: Schon beim Einschenken breiten sich süßlich-jodiger Torfrauch und frisch geteerte Straße aus, man ist sofort auf Islay. Apfel, Limette, Ananas, grüne Banane und Datteln sowie Gartenkräuter im schweflig-rußigen Räucherofen, heißer Trafo, Gerbleder, Gunpowder-Tee, Kreosot und alte Salbe in braunem Pflaster, Nadelbaum (insbesondere Kiefernharz), Latte Macchiato mit Vanilleschuss und peruanische Bitterschokolade – alles fein eingebunden und komplex. Ein zitruslastiger und leichtfüßiger Ardbeg, den Rum findet man nur durch seine indirekte Wirkung, die mehr Süße evoziert. Eine interessante Variante mit milderem Abgang als die Committee-Version, die im Sommer am Strand viel Freude machen wird.

Score: 87

Invergordon 45 y.o. Single Grain Scotch Whisky 1972 – 2018, Bourbon barrel, 49,5%

Comment: Classic flawless grain nose, on the crossroads between rum and Bourbon, very mature: vanilla sweetness, maple syrup, marzipan, well-oaky but fits in, marshmallows, Big Red chewing gum, almonds and coconut, fudge, cardamom and nutmeg, pineapple, peach, apple juice, fruit-infused tea and fruity pipe tobacco mix, catnip. On the palate, it is quite oaky and spicy at first, then it gives room to the complexity of the nose, loooong vanilla carpet all the way into the finish.

Score: 90

Ardmore 20 y.o. Mancarella 1998, Bourbon Hogshead, 51,9%

Comment: On the farmyardy side altogether with greener fermentation notes and cheese, aroma-laden coal smoke, peat, leather, yellow apple, olives, shoe shine, flowery elements too. Nice mature palate with a sweet malty backbone, peatier than the nose with my beloved flintiness. Complex and deep.

Score: 89

Dino visits Pit

Aultmore 21 y.o. Maltbarn 1997,  50,7%

Comment: This is fruity-herbal and also juicy, very well-balanced. I am getting strawberry, cranberry, lemon, orange, macadamia-cookie, herbal infusion, and a discrete leafy bitterness in the nose. On the palate more wood Comes through (yet still within borders of good balance), but spice is clearly there.

Score: 89

Glentauchers 21 y.o. Maltbarn 1997 , 48,0%

Comment: A mild and sour-fruity dram, very typical for this underrated distillery. We have lemon and grapefruit, green tea, lemongrass, white peach, a hint of ginger and white pepper, fresh laundry, asparagus, smoked herbs and moss. It reminds me of a racy Riesling , excellent balance, too.

Score: 90

Speyside Distillery 29 y.o. Maltbarn 1989, 49,1%

Comment: This Oldie is very fruity (tropical: orange jam, passion fruit, white peach) but also has some malty sweetness, nice spices, creamy vanilla, like a baroque Palatinian Riesling – great in taste and balance, and sooo juicy!

Score: 90

Braes of Glenlivet 23 y.o. Maltbarn 1994, 48,7%

Comment: This quite rare Single Malt offers autumnal fruit and leafs, (blood) oranges, grapefruit, sour apple rings (Haribo), catnip, some flowery freshness and acidity.

Score: 88+

Glenrothes 22 y.o. Maltbarn 1996, sherry cask, 48.7%

Comment: This one is my favourite in the bunch along with the Springer, so alive and sexy with leather and spice, orange zest, cinnamon, forest honey, Stollen, raisins, a hint of sherry, perfectly balanced and enticing. Mooooreish!

Score: 90+

Springbank 15 y.o. Maltbarn 2003, sherry cask, 48,9%

Comment: Sprinbank back on top with sheer quality and great oak usage – meaty ham, salt and spice, brine, maritime wind, cookies, brighter and darker fruits (peach, warmth of earth, plums, raisins, redcurrant), Parmigiano Reggiano and blue cheese. Tasty stuff.

Score: 91-

Caol Ila 14 y.o. Maltbarn 2004, 53,7%

Comment: A typical Caol Ila in the right age, very herbal, great palate and a very long finish. Good Islay quaffer!

Score: 88

Aroma: Wie bei vielen Finishes ist das Resultat eher im Geschmack zu finden, die Nose, zeigt den Rum nicht klar an. Dafür ist sie aber richtig fein, ein reif und rund wirkender Ardbeg mit seinen typischen Merkmalen steigt einem in die Nase: Trafobrand, Reifen, Seegras, Jod, salzige Seeluft, Torf, geröstete Kaffeebohnen, Gerbleder, Pfeffer, Chili, Schokolade, Erdnüsse, grüne Kräuter, Spinat, Dill und Aloe Vera. Volles Spektrum. Was hier anders erscheint als bei den klassischen Abfüllungen sind deutliche Kiefernzapfen, Harz, mehr Vanilleanteil mit etwas mehr Holz (keine Angst, der Dram bleibt „spirit-driven“) und ein tropischer Einschlag durch trockene Ananas, Blutorange und Limettensaft. Auch Datteln, Gras und warme Erde (Rindenmulch im Olivenhain) tragen zu diesem leicht süßeren Gesamtbild bei.

Geschmack: Ah, the rum is not gone – hier erkennt man seine Spuren deutlicher als zuvor, jedoch nie aufdringlich. Dieser Ardbeg ist milder und süßer im Antrunk, ohne seinen Charakter zu verlieren – wie ein schön frisierter und in ein Hawaiihemd gesteckter Islay-Fisherman mit Bart und Brusthaar. Ananas, Apfel, Zimt, Banane, Datteln, Olivenöl, Vanille, Kaffee, Leder, Bitterschokolade, Erde und Mulch sowie aromatischer Torfrauch mit Jod. Das ganze ist enorm trinkig und angenehm, Ardbeg für die Sonnenterrasse.

Nachklang: Auch hier kein Kastrat, sondern ein herrlich spaßiger Ardbeg, der keine einzige Offnote aufweist. Zugänglicher, verspielter, etwas leichter, aber dennoch mit Aussage, wie Kinski an einem guten Tag. Der Rum bringt die Jodsüße stärker heraus, angezündetes Streichholz für brennende Kiefernzapfen, Vanilla-Espresso am Strand von Port Ellen mit Torfschwaden im Hintergrund. Could you be loooved …? Indeed. Ich mag ihn.

Bewertung: 89

Rare 21 y.o. Select Cask

This bottling was done for and chosen by some real malt heads (see picture) who love their Lagavulin dearly. As it is a rare sensation that DIAGEO allows original bottlings for a certain group, this is a special gem. I am very excited and hope this is good (as it was really expensive). Let’s taste:

Comment: Holy…, OmG! This is great from the first whiff. I could smell this for hours and it touches my soul. No joke, this is probably the best nose I had in 2018, full score. Why such praise: very complex and interwoven balance, deep, all elements fit together, like a huge orchestra with all musicians playing yet no instrument takes centre stage. The Tannoy speakers of Lagavulin, full of peaty, medical and leathery goodness paired with maturity. Here we have the precise middle between cask and spirit influence, going hand in hand, not tired but refined – a maelstrom of peat, iodine and sweet wine from very elegant old-style wood, like only the greatest of the great have. 21 is an ideal age for the Lagavulin distillate of this cask type.

I am now getting Shisha tobacco, roasted peanuts, gunpowder tea, dates, bacon-wrapped plums, cedar-wrapped Romeo y Julieta in a mahogany humidor, mmmh, and mint, like having a Mojito in the back of an authentic old Cuban bar. More pleasures chime in: espresso macchiato, chalk, iodine, gorse, kelp, vanilla pod, cough syrup, BBQ-glazed baby back ribs after 12 hours of smoking, bonfire and the combo of good sulphury smoke and peat. Aaaah….

On the palate it doesn’t disappoint at all, yum, but I am almost glad that it doesn’t go on with perfection like before – otherwise I needed more bottles   It is more on the liqueur-side than expected and wins out when drunk in big sips because the body is slick and elegant, no bruiser. Water is not necessary. All the above elements are to be found, but leathery spice paves the way nicely. It somehow unites Lagavulin power with mild and smooth character traits in a slender body.

The finish is earthy and sweet at first, then lit matchstick, flinty gunpowder and an iodine-esque peatiness linger. What a treat and a worthy dram for the occasion – these are the moments … amazing pick, boys! A must-have for the devotee. Free refills, anyone?

Score: 94+

Thanks to Donnie and Boris for the sample.

SMWS 35.219 Glen Moray 2003 ex-Chardonnay Barrique 14 y.o., 57,2%

This is a Germany-exclusive release, also titled and described in German – nice. And it is a winner that was chosen by a jury of German connoisseurs. A very „mortlachy“ Glen Moray, I must say because it has quite some smoke, a dry meaty and sulphury edge and metallic undertones. Old wood notes meet grapes, mango, Peach, orange zest, muesli box, ginger and chili, coal, pine needles and Aperol Sprizz. Funny and interesting nose on the dry and malty side of things. On the palate it Shows greatness, very round and flawless. Malt and spice-combo leads to honey sweetness, fruits and wine – like a watercolor painting that hints at things in a subtle way. It finishes long and metallic with all the aroma’s reminiscences glowing up shortly. Water makes it sweeter and sends the chilis to the fore. Quite a ride, like on Autobahn A3 in heavy traffic

Score: 88

SMWS 35.194 Glen Moray 2001 ex-Oloroso 1st-fill, 16 y.o., 59,8%

I am sure this release will find little common ground. I find it fungi-flawed like many of these casks that only display sulphury raisins, blue cheese and grapey sweetness – no distillery character and complexity. However, some love it exactly for this profile.

The nose is intact: rich and malty nose, dark honey, oak, pistachio, mash, hints of fruit (apricots and gooseberries), sulphury raisins, Spanish vinegar, ginger, chili and ginger, coal, eucalypt, chocolate Lebkuchen, not too bad. However, on the palate it displays the described flaw. Raisins, blue cheese, flinty sulphur. the spices save it a bit from being too monodimensional. Water also helps. I declare the discussion on this one as open…

Score 83

SMWS 35.204 Glen Moray 2001 ex-Bourbon/new oak, 16 y.o., 58,9%

This one is much less debatable. It has quite some wine character on the one side and wood spice on the other, almost bordering on Bourbon territory (yet smoother). Nuts, vanilla, cloves, maple syrup, salted caramel, honey, figs, dates, sulphury raisins, oranges and sweet tobacco big time. On the palate the sherry starts to speak more, with hints of the fungi-problem, but also juicy aromas. No water needed.

Score: 87

This was an interesting head-to-head comparison. Now I am glad to also try other releases as well.

SMWS 5.60 Auchentoshan 2000 ex-Bourbon/Oloroso, 16 y.o., 56,5%

The most surprising one in this set, it is beguiling. What a great cask! Very much like an older Glen Keith in moments. So creamy and full of Bourbon cask goodness, aaah! Mango on creme brûlée, coconut and pineapple meet Werthers Originals toffee, gooseberries, linden blossom honey, ripe pear, roses, orange zest, cinnamon hazelnut, amoroso sherry, calvados, vin santo, Bailoni Apricot liqueur sweetness, full on! All he way to the end this is powerful, complex and well-balanced. A clear buy!

Score: 89-90

SMWS 68.11 Blair Athol 2009 ex-Bourbon 7 y.o., 57,9% 

Forest Floor in late autumn, aromatic and fresh, then it becomes a sweet pasty like a cinnamon sticky bun with nuts, Marzipan fruitcake, honey-glaze and dessert wine. Water makes it even sweeter, one for afternoon tea parties.

Score: 87

SMWS 66.104 Ardmore 2008 ex-Bourbon 8 y.o., 60,1%

I love Ardmore at all ages. The younger ones don’t dissappoint but are a bit greener and sweeter than predecessors from the direct firing period of distillation. This one reminds me of a Bunnahabhain Moine in the nose. Like having a green tea on a frehsly tarred road near to an Islay distillery. Ashtray smokiness and aromatic peat, herbs, Aloe, juniper, metal, BBQ-sauce, mustard seed, ginger, apples, black pepper and chili – a powerhouse. On the palate it is way sweeter and more comlex as one would think. Everything tightly woven together like a Tsunami of peaty whisky goodness plus some iodine. So balanced and refined, you want another glass. Wow. Another recommendation!

Score: 88-89

Speyside Region 28 y.o. Mancarella 1989 – 2018, Bourbon cask, 93 btl., 47,6%

Comment: Very fruity (pink grapefruit, maracuja, garden fruits) and full of blossom honey. This has good maturity and balance, the wood is exactly right. Mint, chili, bloody steak, a trace of ginger and the sweetness of vanilla pastries in the nose. On the palate it delivers similarly. very soft but lacking a bit of power. However, it is so refined, I forgive – a winner, again.

Score: 90-91

Invergordon 44 y.o. Mancarella 1973 – 2018, Bourbon cask, 106 btl., 52,3%

Comment: Those Grains are winning ground in the community of whisky nerds. A profile in the middle between Rum, Scotch and Bourbon makes them very complex at higher age. This one is no exception. Clear grainy whiffs meet Barbados-Rum (coconut, pineapple, soft smoke, vanilla), demerara sugar, lime blossom, blueberries, resin, maple syrup, apple crumble with cinnamon, gingerbread and what not, an amazing Bourbon cask did ist work here. For sweet teeth and lovers of complex drams. Wow!

Score: 91+

The 22 y.o. is from spring 1996 and was matured in Bourbon barrels only. I hope it can stand up to a wonderful Cadenhead Ardbeg with similar stats we recently had. Let’s taste it:

Comment: I had it on three occasions and it presented itself slightly different each time. Overall, it is a soft and sweeter Ardbeg, one for big sips, not too loud, very rounded, a dram for the second helping. Give it time and it will reward you. It brings old as well as new Ardbeg character to the table, a real mix that is not as „beasty“ as usual, more on the fruity side of things. However, it has the classic profile in its DNA, but if you are into pressure on your palate, this isn’t for you. It starts on coal, sweet smoke, vanilla, freshly sawn firs, Mezcal, Granny Smith apples, green tea with bitter elements, tar, kiwi, lemon drop, chalk and white pepper – plus the peat, tar, burnt trafo and iodine. All that is balanced and shy. On the mild palate, leather and apples take center stage, chalk and peat meet fruits. It is complex and tightly woven together, discrete, no powerhouse but one to drink another glass. Maybe it is easy to miss and tired in moments, but I like it for its special character and smooth style.

Score: 89/90

Glenrothes 10 y.o. The Shining Dram, from butt, 52,9%

Comment: I call this a greenhouse dram. I am getting floral elements, linseeds, orchard fruit (pear, apple, cider), green grapes, tomato plants, wet malt, pistachio, lemon zest and white pepper. All is in balance and a typical dram for ist age. Water opens it up a little more.

Score: 84

Glenrothes 20 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 51,5%

Comment: This older version is wonderfully fruity (already esters of tropical fruits like passion fruit, but also orchard apple, Haribo’s sour apple rings and orange zest). There also is a fresh mintiness. The dram is a great combo between sour fruit elements and woody spices with vanilla. Although the oak is a bit loud, the oily mouthfeel and apricot fruit reward the drinker manifold.

Score: 87

Ben Nevis 19 y.o. The Shining Dram, from Bourbon hogshead, 48,6%

Comment: To start with, this is one of the most unusual drams I ever had, hence very Ben Nevis (which I like). Yes, an awkward mix awaited me but it is very interesting and mind-boggling. It will find its lovers and haters. The spectrum of aromas consists of hazelnut bush, cereals, mashy youthfulness, canned coffee milk, sheep stable and ewe’s cheese, fresh paint, coal, cocoa powder and Indian curried pickles. On the palate it is a wild ride in unusual terrain of old wooden planks, persipan, and all of the above. Cool yet crazy. Give it a try!

Score: 87

Auchroisk 24 y.o. The Shining Dram, from Bourbon hogshead, 43,5%

Comment: A summer breeze high in the Alps, this is the headline here, Fragile but so complex and lovely. Great balance and maturity, floral lightness, like a summer wind in a flower dress on an ‚Alm‘. We also have fruitiness (kiwi, strawberry, Austrian apricot), coconut, iron, grass and vanilla cream. Very elegant and a must-have for fans of this profile. Big sips recommended.

Score: 90+

Blended Malt 23 y.o. The Shining Dram, from sherry hogshead, 51,1%

Comment: X-Mas cake (‚Christstollen‘ soaked), very juicy – the sherry is perfectly integrated and not dry, which is rare at this high intensity. Rumtopf, raisins, figs, cherries, blackberries, cinnamon, orange zest, dark Wood – all in balance and full expression. Stunner!

Score: 90+

Orkney Single Malt 12 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 50,6%

Comment: Give this one time and it will rock your world. Starts youthful and with great balance, then it becomes more mature. Mossy river, peaty Highland floor with heather, herbs, ozone, black pepper, juniper, sloe berry, hazelnut shrub, sweet malt, Turkish delight, white chocolate, litchi, kurkuma, olive oil and more. It tastes wonderful and manages to combine two worlds: lightness yet being heavily loaded with aromas. The malty sweetness and complexity in coastal style is breathtaking. Buy!

Score: 90

Caol Ila 10 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 53,3%

Comment: A typical example, and a nice one too. Like a walk in a mediterranean olive grove with a glass of Islay Whisky. Oven fire gone out with spent coal, juniper, olives, resin, licorice, fishing boat (ropes, kelp, fish, seashell minerality, peat, ozone, green tea and Lemon chicken. On the palate it is well-balanced, spirit driven and naked, enticing! Flintiness joins in as well as a sweet oily maltiness. Pure Islay with finesse!

Score: 89

Overall, I am quite impressed with this debut. Well picked, Markus!

You can get these drams, prices and pictures on the website: www.theshiningdram.com

Bruichladdich 8 y.o. Maltbarn 2009 – 2018 Chateau Lafite Cask, 65,5% (Release #92)

Comment: A cask from one of Bordeaux‘ finest wineries, world-reknowned. The strength of this Laddie is brutal, I suggest to add some water after a while. It is a spicy-hot version (ginger, chili, wood-infused spices) that deals well with the sweet malt and wine cask elements which create a nice counterpart. Hints of green Haribo apple rings, Pineapple, peaches, canned milk, strawberries and oa7k come through. The wine becomes more detectabe on the palate and suits the dram. Young but already expressive.

Score: 87

Bunnahabhain ‚Moine‘ 5 y.o. Maltbarn/Signatory 2011 – 2017 hogshead, 61,9% (Release #84)

Comment: This is heavily-peated Bunnie, the stuff which is in many undisclosed Islay bottlings these days. Camphor meets peat in a dryer and steely style, also salty and herbal. I am getting Bacon-drizzled Barbecue coal, juniper, olive oil, lemon zest, ozone freshness, antiseptic bandaid and more. On the palate it is a bit Mezcal-like at first and way softer than one would expect from the Monster nose. Water releases more sweetness – astounding complexity at such a young age.

Score: 86+

Port Charlotte 10 y.o. Maltbarn 2007 – 2018 Margaux-Cask, 61,5% (Release #97)

Comment: I like this, a very typical and round one, the rooty style of peatiness is a PC trait. This powerhouse is balanced out by sweetness that adds complexity. Water helps but is not necessary. The wine also left traces of raisins and blue cheese.

Score: 88

Springbank 26 y.o. Maltbarn 1992 – 2018 Bourbon cask, 51,0% (Release #100)

Comment: An honour to try this – and a good choice for the jubilee. A fine example of Springbank with loads of fruit, coconuts, jamon saltiness and all that jazz older Springers offer – in an austere and mature style and great balance, not oily though. The Bourbon cask shines through wonderfully.

Score: 91 (emotionally 100)

Nose: The An Oa stats on  green notes of agave (Mezcal-esque), herbs (fennel, oregano, thyme), green tea (nettles), mint (catnip), anis and lime zest that meet the classic peaty Ardbeg profile. The focus is on tar, resin, a sweet peat-iodine-soot-combo, leather, quite some cocoa, roasted coffee beans, dates, chalk, oak and toffee. It somehow smells more liqueur-like than other Ardbegs, but it is clearly spirit-driven.

Palate: Great balance, classic Ardbeg, but more civilized, streamlined and quaffable. This plays on the lighter and sweeter side of Islay. For a change I am getting mossy green earth, vanilla and apple-hickory-BBQ-smoke that joins the world of Ardbeg. Well-made, this subtle yet ardbeggy dram.

Finish: Medium length and very pleasant, this unifies contrasts of wild and mild, of elegance and intensity. Introduce people to Ardbeg with this one.

Score: 85

Comment: Very typical for its provenance, and so tropical. To me this is an example of the finest Bourbon wood maturation (reminding me of Glen Keith 40, Bruichladdich 1970 or Springbank Local Barley) but the label says “sherry cask” … well, many of these were made from American oak in Jerez, and this has been a refill for sure. Like a Monin syrup of pink grapefruit, grilled pineapple with sugar, apricots, coconut, vanilla (Bavarian Crème), pear in cream and traces of green tea and herbs. The oak is perfectly integrated and not too loud. On the palate it arrives so wonderfully oily and fruit-laden, wow! This is close to perfection and finely balanced. It stays true to itself all the way to the finish, never too dry, medium-long and very ‘moreish’. The slight touch of bitter (herbal whiff) keeps it interesting and sets a nice counterpart to the fruit. Great pick, Dino, thank you for letting me try it.

Score: 92+

Die Geschmacksbeschreibung und die Botanicals sollen an eine Bergwiese im Sommer erinnern (Arnika, Silberdistel, Frauenmantel, Bergkräuter). Als Kind der Alpen kenne ich diese Gerüche … bin gespannt:

Beschreibung: Ohne die guten Notes des Herstellers kopieren zu wollen stimme ich in großen Teilen zu. Ein insgesamt klassischer Dry Gin, jedoch mit viel „Terroir“. Die deutlichsten Aromen sind tatsächlich Bergwiese (warmes Heu, Trockenblumen, Almblüte) und Limette, dazu etwas Bergamotte, Salbei, Pfeffer und Honig. Der Wacholder spielt zurückhaltend im Hintergrund, helle Geruchsfarben prägen das Bild. Am Gaumen ist der Gin eher leicht süßlich und sehr weich, mild-wärmend mit dezenter Würze. Orange Limette, Kamille, Wacholder, Rosmarin, Almwiese, die ganze Heidi in akzeptabler Balance. Den vom Hersteller als mächtig bezeichneten Nachklang ist eher von mittlerer Länge und sehr rund, es klingt warmes Bergheu und Wacholder in feinen Wellen an. Insgesamt gutes Mittelfeld mit Bonuspunkten für Originalität und Regionalität, das Thema ist top umgesetzt. Wer es weich und alpin liebt, ist hier genau richtig. Mir fehlt etwas Druck und Balance am Gaumen, doch das ist immer Geschmackssache. Ein spannendes Produkt ist dieser Eidgenosse auf jeden Fall. Probieren!

Bewertung: 86

Glenrothes 20 y.o. malt mountains 1997 – 2017, sherry cask, 50,3%

Comment: Glenrothes ranks really high among blenders, and rightfully so. I also adore this malt with its bloodorange-tang. Oliver Späth already had a nice Glen Keith, Tobermory and the astonishing Bladnoch in his range, and this bottling is his latest. In this one, the sherry is dominant yet not overpowering, it goes in a balsamic direction altogether. There is more to it than just raisins, as some modern casks are these days. It is kirsch gateau (chocolate cake soaked in cherry schnaps) with hazelnuts and fudge, a dessert dram, earthy like a Glendronach but less dry, also whiffs of orange peel, humidor and cedar wood are to be nosed. On the palate it is very typical, a well-balanced sherry dram with blood orange and forest floor. Overall not overly complex but simply good at what it is and does. Long satisfying finish. Thanks Oliver! Good pick, again. Available here.

Score: 90+

Aultmore 33 y.o. OB ‚Exceptional Cask Series‘ for China Whisky Society 1983 – 2016, sherry cask finish, 678 btl., 53,3%

Comment: Don’t these new Aultmore bottles look beautiful (clear glass, that is), you wanna touch them. A rare one for China, let’s see: Oh my God, this is a monster of complexity: honey and hay meet the sweet side of oak – this what bursts out of the glass at first. Then licorice, honey, butter, sugar-glazed pastry, Werther’s Originals, vanilla and fruits (pink grapefruit, kiwi, plums, grapes) join a solid malty backbone of the classic kind (old style). After a while it reminds me of a walk in an olive garden in summer bloom, also ruccola and hot mulch. It arrives with great nervosity on the palate, quite some action is going on there. Like an aquarel painting all the aromatic dots are there but only hinted at. The interesting acidity is slowly becoming sweetness, everything happens in style and is well-integrated. Waves of tasty stuff return in the finish: sweet malt and pastry again (now with vanilla sauce), honey glace, green tea,  sycamore bark and so much more. Gimme a bottle! Thanks Boris!

Score: 92

Comment: Hooray, it doesn’t lose to its stronger brother, the dilution added great balance yet doesn’t weaken the impact on the palate considerably. This is quite a typical Ardbeg with deep notes of peat and iodine, burnt trafo and tires and all that Kildalton jazz. What sets it apart are peanuts and crushed nuts of all kind and a mezcalesque quality that isn’t too greenish. It appears mature and all notes are in place, no offs. Slender on the palate, then becoming huge in the finish which turns wonderfully sooty with my beloved smoke of children’s firecrackers in a peat-firing neighborhood. A real successful bottling.

Score: 90

Blended Malt ‚very old‘ Whisky-Fässle bottled 2016, sherry butt, 45,4%

Comment: Loved the last one, hope this can keep up. The nose reveals dry sherry wood, garden fruit and exotic fruit (esp. pineapple), cocoa, ginger, pepper, licorice, resin and soaked gingerbread cake (if that exists). On the palate it shifts into higher gear, really impressive and classic in style. Old polished sherry malt style that reminds me oft he biggest names in Speyside with a hint of Orkney. Juicy stuff that keeps you sipping because the finfish is soooo classy.

Score: 90

Cragganmore 27 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1989 – 2016, sherry butt, 48,7%

Comment: This one is adored by quite some friends and I also find Cragganmore underrated but not all bottlings of this herbal malt are great. This specimen is the Amaro (an Italian Bitter) among Craggies, herbal healing. It also reminds me of a walk in the forest with a basket of apples and a flower bouquet. I also has nutty elements (even pistacchio), beech leafs, bark, nettles, green tea, honey, agave (yes, it has tequila-esque moments), yuzu and orange zest. The palate is mature and unusual, great old oak, sherry-style, yet teaish green, wow. Orange, apples, apricots, licorice, vanilla and fallen leafs. A long finish rewards the drinker. Different and hard to score, maybe I am at the low end of this one.

Score: 89 (some might go higher here)

Fine Tennessee Whiskey 5y.o. Whisky-Fässle 2011 – 2016, barrel, 51,4%

Comment: Clearly a Dickel from Tullahoma (I lived close many years ago) with rye in the mash bill. Complex sweet oak elements meet maple syrup, nuts and marzipan. Very more-ish.

Score: 88

Caol Ila 10 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 2006 – 2017,for Whisky Klubben Maltes Vänner hogshead, 53,6%

Comment: My favourite from this batch – which I wouldn’t have expected from the sheer facts on the label. This is so pure, clean and spirit-driven, it hurts. Classic profile with juniper, olive oil, moss, coal gas, big lemon drop, green apples, gunpowder tea, soot and ashes along with peat, resin and tar. The palate is powerful and very well-balanced. Expressive purity! Amazing spirit. Islay holiday at the first sip.

Score: 90

Mannochmore 28 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1988 – 2016, hogshead, 46,0%

Comment: Another cool pick, I must say. Wonderfully old-school with a metallic edge. I am getting leather, peaches and stone fruits, orange zest, quince, lemons. Behind that there are nougat whiffs, mild chili and slightly bitter old oak elements that fit very well. It tastes very complex and much fruitier than expected. It is an example of a solid and complete malt.

Score: 90

Bladnoch 26 y.o. malt mountains No. 5, 1990 – 2016, bourbon barrel, 48,6%

Comment: Sweet and mature nose in great balance. Creme brulee wit loads of vanilla, almonds, white peach, kumquat, gooseberry, grapefruit, pear, cider, kirschschnaps, elder, lime dashes, kurkuma and what not – in parts like a Nahe Riesling Auslese and marzipan cake and Haribo foam mice (sorry!). The palate is equally rewarding, and the oak is not dominant. This mild baby surfs on vanilla and fruit but has enough power to render great aromas. It reminds me of white-chocolate-glazed fruits at county fairs. A dessert in a glass. And at a price around 165.- Euro this is a real steal. Hell of a pick, Oli! Get the remaining bottles on malt mountain’s page, you won’t regret it.

Score: 91

Am 10.11.2016 trafen wir uns zum dritten Mal in gewohnter Viererrunde. Diesmal standen insgesamt 13 Drams auf dem Programm, mit priorisiertem Schwerpunkt auf die Brennerei Springbank, darunter die gesamte legendäre Millennium Range, der 64er Samaroli Sherry Dumpy sowie der 67er Prestonfield Single Sherry Cask 1472. Abgerundet wurde die herausragende Range durch einen 12-jährigen (sherrylastigen) Glenfarclas (ca. aus den 1950er Jahren), einen 73er Glenfarclas aus dem Bourbonfass, einen 40-jährigen Linkwood aus dem Jahr 1946 sowie den 32-jährigen offiziellen Laphroaig nebst einem uralten 10-jährigen Ardbeg (vermutlich abgefüllt noch in den 60ern) !

Das sensorische Vergnügen startete bereits durch die stärkende Mahlzeit vorab. Acht Stunden im Smoker zubereitete und wirklich sensationelle Spareribs (Danke Markus!) bildeten eine passende Grundlage um mit dem „Hauptgang“ zu beginnen.

Hier der Ausfluss unserer subjektiven Eindrücke:

1.)   Linkwood, ”Finest Highland Malt”, 40 yo, dist. 1946, 40%, 75cl, Sestante

Wieder einer dieser altehrwürdigen Malts, die das Attribut „Understatement“ (auch wenn man sich da wiederholen muss) verkörpern, wie keine zeitgenössischen Vertreter auch nur annähernd mehr dazu in der Lage sind. Wunderbar fragiles und reifes heimisches Kernobst (Williamsbirne, grüner Apfel), reife grüne Weintrauben, dazu Anklänge von Marzipan, Toffee und weißem Rum. Mit der Zeit gesellen sich auch dezente exotische Noten (Mango, Sternfrucht) dazu. Wunderbar verflochten und mit einer genialen Süße von türkischem Honig unterlegt. Es kommen Assoziationen von Malaga-Eis auf. Im Hintergrund immer wunderbar unterlegte Edelholz-Noten und ein Sherry-Einfluss, der in dieser Eleganz und Finesse nicht mehr zu finden ist. Die Struktur und der Gesamteindruck erscheinen für das Alter erstaunlich lebendig. So sind die häufig anzutreffenden Leder- und Holznuancen wunderbar dezent und zu keinem Zeitpunkt überfrachtend. Auch trifft man nahezu keine, bei vielen vor 1990 abgefüllten Malts anzutreffenden, „Old-Bottle-Noten“ an. Lediglich im Nachklang verflacht der Eindruck dann ein wenig, was aber dem Alter und den inzwischen verflogenen Volumen-% geschuldet ist. Ein wunderbar eleganter Einstieg mit einem Rückblick über inzwischen 70 (!) Jahre Whiskygeschichte….

K: 91   M: 90  H: 90   F: 91    à Schnitt: 90,50

2.)   Glenfarclas 1973 – 2015, 42 yo, 40,2%, Cadenhead “Authentic Collection”, 168 btl., Bourbon Cask

Und noch so ein betagter alter Herr, der allerdings erst letztes Jahr abgefüllt wurde. Trotz des Alters und der inzwischen geringen Fassstärke unglaublich lebendig-intensiver Bourbonfass-Einfluss mit allem, was so dazugehört (Vanillin-Backpulver, Rapshonig, sommerliche Blumenwiese). Dazu tolle Noten an überreifer Birne, Quitten-Marmelade und dahinter eine elegante Riesling-Mineralik. Mit der Zeit (und mehr Sauerstoff) gesellen sich feine Eindrücke an weißer Schokolade, süße Getreidenoten, Honigmet, Holunderblüten und eine Reihe an sommerlichen Kräutern (Thymian, Kamille und ein Hauch Fenchel) dazu. Die gesamte Aromenpalette wirkt wunderbar verspielt, grenzenlos samtig und harmonisch verflochten und weißt eine durchweg einnehmende Süße auf, die ihm eine geniale „Süffigkeit“ verleihen. Diese bleibt bis zum Ende hin in nachklingenden Bourbonfass-, Honig- und Obstkorb-Eindrücken erhalten. Ein weiteres wirklich sensationelles Cadenhead-Bottling, das zeigt, dass Glenfarclas auch  „ohne Sherry“ geht – und wie!

K: 91   M: 92  H: 91   F: 92    à Schnitt: 91,5

Nun folgt der eigentliche Kernbereich des heutigen Tastings. Die Springbank Millennium Range. 6 Drams im Alter von 25 bis zu 50 Jahren. Flüssige Geschichte. Aufgrund der geringen Volumenprozent der 40-, 45- und 50-jährigen Vertreter haben wir die Range vom Alter her absteigend verkostet (im Nachhinein eine gute Entscheidung!).

Leider muss man vorab sagen, dass es dem 50-, 45- und 40-Jährigen erheblich an Alkoholstärke mangelt (alle nur mit knapp über 40% abgefüllt), was sich leider merklich auf Geschmack, Abgang und Struktur auswirkt. Geschmacklich wirken alle drei „verwässert“ und strukturell „schwach auf der Brust“. Anhand der Grundstilistik und Aromenstruktur bietet also vorwiegend die Nase Orientierung. Der Geschmack kann bei keinem der drei Vertreter die Erwartungen, die die Nase geweckt hat, erfüllen und fällt deutlich ab.

3.)   Springbank 50 yo, OB, Limited Edition, “Millennium Bottling”, 40,5%, btl. 03/2001

Getragen von uralten Ledereindrücken und einer intensiv-charakteristischen Rauchigkeit, die jedoch von unfassbarer Finesse gezeichnet ist (keine phenolische Rauchigkeit, die man von vielen Islay-Vertretern gewohnt ist, mehr in Richtung erloschenem und abgekühlten Lagerfeuer und Holzkohle, aber ebenso beeindruckend, nur wesentlich filigraner). Alter Kohlenkeller, unglaublich metallisch (deutlich mehr als in den Folgejahrzehnten!), alter „Bulldogschuppen“ und Eindrücke einer Werkstatt mit abgestandenen Motorölbehältern, alte Schusterei (Leder- und Schuhleim). „Alt“ kann eigentlich vor alle Aromenkomponenten gesetzt werden. Mit der Zeit eine elegante Wachsigkeit, dezente Heidekrauttöne und eine wunderbare Brise an kühler Atlantikluft sowie langsam zutage tretende heimische Obst-Eindrücke (überreife gelbe Äpfel, Stachelbeere, grüne Weintrauben) und Grünmalznoten. Dazu schwingen im Hintergrund  immer Nuancen von muffigem Hochlandmoor an einem kalten Tag (Schottlandbesucher wissen, was gemeint ist) und einer feinen Salzbrise mit. Wirklich charakteristisch. Unterscheidet sich vollkommen von den Folgejahrzehnten. Der Geschmack lässt dieselbe Aromenstruktur erahnen, die die Nase bereits zeigt, fällt aber wie gesagt aufgrund der verlorenen Alkoholstärke deutlich ab und wirkt irgendwie „verwässert“ und substanzschwach.

Deshalb keine Gesamtwertung !

(Die Nase allein:        K: 92 M: 89 H: 89 F: 89                                                                                  à Geschmack und Körper deutlich schwächer !)

4.)   Springbank 45 yo, OB, Limited Edition, “Millennium Bottling”, 40,1%, btl. 09/2000

Wirklich sehr ähnliche Grundstruktur (die drei ältesten Vertreter der Millennium-Range ähneln sich von der Grundstruktur her merklich), jedoch lebendiger. Mehr Heidekraut- und Honigeinflüsse, mehr Eichenholzeindrücke (Vanille!) und Kernobst. Schafswolle (wirklich!), Buttertoffee, dafür die metallisch-maschinellen Komponenten zurückhaltender, weniger Kohle, etwas mehr an Malz- und Getreideaspekten sowie erste Anklänge der später so berühmten Kokos-Aromatik. Insgesamt „weicher“ und einen Hauch weniger maritim, aber immer noch die für diese Zeit bei Springbank typische Grundcharakteristik, die beim 50er ebenso vorzufinden war. Das Ganze einfach subtiler und verspielter. Der Geschmack weist zwar mehr Frucht und Süße auf, leidet aber wiederum merklich an den dürftigen  Vol.%, weshalb wir auch hier kein Gesamtwertung vornehmen, sondern nur die Nase bewerten !

(Nase:                         K: 89 M: 90 H: 88 F: 90                                                                                  à Geschmack und Körper wiederum deutlich schwächer!)

5.)   Springbank 40 yo, OB, Limited Edition, “Millennium Bottling”, 40,1%, btl. 03/2000

Die Tendenz hin zu der klassischen 60er Jahre Charakteristik bei Springbank zeichnet sich im Hinblick auf die zwar präsenten, aber dezenter zutage tretenden metallischen Noten und die filigraner eingebundene Kohlenrauchigkeit weiter ab. Bei dieser Abfüllung dafür wieder etwas mehr an Atlantikbrise, dazu mehr an sommerlichen Kräutern (Thymian, Kamille – erinnert an helle Honig-Kräuterbonbons), zudem dezente Marillen- und Birneneindrücke. Wiederum dezente Anklänge der spätestens ab Mitte der 60er so bekannten Kokoseindrücke und eine erste Idee an Edelschinken. Dieser Vertreter weißt auch im Geschmack eine feiner strukturierte Süße und noch mehr an fruchtigen Eindrücken auf, weniger metallisch, mehr an Holzeinfluss. Wirkt trotz fehlender Vol.% nicht mehr ganz so „verwässert“ wie die beiden Vorgänger, Alkoholstärke ist dennoch auch hier deutlich zu vermissen. Deshalb bleiben wir (auch fairnesshalber) nur bei der Beschreibung der Grundeindrücke und geben auch hier wiederum keine Gesamtwertung ab.

(Die Nase allein:        K: 86 M: 87 H: 86 F: 88                                                                                  à Geschmack und Körper erneut schwächer!)

Grundsätzlich lässt sich festhalten, dass man vom 50er über den 45er bis hin zum 40er eine plausible Zeitreise und Fortentwicklung zur Stilistik der berühmten 60er Jahre durchmacht. Welcher der drei Genannten einem nun am besten gefällt, ist reine Geschmackssache. Alle haben – zumindest von der Nase her – jeweils etwas für sich, wenngleich sie sich sehr ähneln. Geschmack und Auftritt sind aufgrund der Alkoholschwäche ernüchternd. Ein Erlebnis bleiben die Eindrücke und Erfahrungswerte aber trotzdem!

Im Gesamten kann man konstatieren, dass sich die Qualität in keiner Weise mit der der drei sherrylastigeren Abfüllungen (25er, 30er und 35er) aus der Range messen lässt. Diese bewegen sich aus unserer Sicht (unabhängig vom Alkoholgehalt) auf einem ganz anderen Niveau und zeigen, wozu Springbank qualitativ in der Lage war!

Nach einer stärkenden Zwischenmahlzeit (ebenso sensationelle Rinderbrust vom Kohlegrill… Danke an Markus Master Chef!) wurde die Sensorik mit folgendem Single Malt wieder auf Touren gebracht:

6.)   J & G Grant (Glenfarclas) 12 yo, “Malt Scotch Whisky – From the Glenlivet District”, OB, Grant Bonding Co. Ltd. Elgin, 40%, 75cl (btl. ~ 1960ies), “dumpy cube bottle”

Gewürzmühle und Candyshop in Einem! Sofort eine charakteristische Note von Erdbeer-Rhabarber – Torte mit Vanillecreme (kein Scherz!). Dazu gebrannte Mandeln, Maroni, herber werdende Anklänge von Schwarztee und grünem Tee, alter Ledersattel, Zypressenholz, Zitronenmelisse und Orangenabrieb. Es gesellen sich tolle Eindrücke von feuchtem Pfeifentabak und grünem Pfeffer dazu. Die Süße wird zum einen von „altem“ Sherry und Weintrauben (erinnert in dieser Hinsicht an fragile alte Cognacs), zum anderen von karamellisierten dunklen Früchten und Zuckerrohr getragen. Das alles geht ein wirklich lebendiges Wechselspiel mit Röstaromen (wie man sie aus einer alten gusseisernen Pfanne her kennt), dezentem Glühweingewürz sowie klassischen Backzutaten (Zitronat/Orangeat) ein. Die bis zum Ende hin anhaltende und in feine Bitterkeit übergehende Würzigkeit erinnert an die charakteristischen Mizunara-Holz-Einflüsse, die man aus japanischen Whiskies kennt. Wirklich beeindruckend. Ein Malt, der Ansprüche stellt und trotz des Alters und der geringen Alkoholstärke eine erstaunliche Wucht und Vitalität aufweist. Hat wirklich Alleinstellungscharakter!

K: 92   M: 90  H: 91   F: 90    à Schnitt: 90,75

Im Folgenden konnte es wieder weitergehen mit dem zweiten (und viel besseren) Teil der „Millennium Range“…

1.)   Springbank 25 yo, OB, Limited Edition, “Millennium Bottling”, 46%, btl. 09/1998

Vorab: ein typischer Springbank von Anfang der 70er Jahre, der strukturell eine wunderbare „Mitte“ zwischen Brennereicharakter und Sherry-Einfluss aufweist.

Feine brennereitypische aber sehr elegante mineralisch-metallische Noten, dezent maritim mit kühler Atlantikluft, und einer entfernten „kalten“ Rauchigkeit. Feine Eichenholzstrukturen mit den typischen Vanille- u. Honignuancen sowie Buttertoffee, Getreidefeld mit Kornblumen und sommerlichen Kräutern wie Kamille und etwas Thymian. Dazu dann fruchtige Eindrücke an reifem heimischen Obst (Äpfel, Birnen, Quitten). Dahinter zeigen sich in schön ausgewogenem Verhältnis feingliedrige Sherryeinflüsse mit Mandarinen, ersten Anklängen von Lebkuchengewürz (mit einem Hauch von Zimt und Nelke) und dezenten Nuancen der sherrytypischen Fruchteindrücke wie Datteln, Feigen und Pflaumen. Der gesamte Auftritt wird von einer tollen karamellisierten Süße getragen, die wiederum eine feine Ausgewogenheit zwischen Sherry- und Bourboncharakteristik aufweist (neben den Beereneindrücken bliebt also auch Raum für z.B. zitruslastige Aspekte und Obst). Wirklich schön balanciert! Am Ende dann eine edle und wiederum sehr dezente Bitterkeit, die wunderbar von feingliedrigen maschinell-mineralischen Elementen getragen wird.

Fazit: der 25er (obwohl ja der jüngste der 6 Bottlings der Reihe) stellt geschmacklich und von der Nase her einen Übergang zwischen den metallisch-bourbonlastigen 50er, 45er und 40er Abfüllungen, hin zu den sherrylastigen 30er und 35er Springbanks dar, obwohl er ja zeitlich aus der letzten Brennperiode (Anfang der 70er) stammt. Das verleiht ihm jedoch in gewisser Weise ein sehr interessantes Alleinstellungsmerkmal.

K: 91   M: 89  H: 88   F: 92    à Schnitt: 90

2.)   Springbank 30 yo, OB, Limited Edition, “Millennium Bottling”, 46% (btl. 03/1999)

Den hatten wir ja bereits beim letzten Tasting, wo er mit durchschnittlich 94,5 Pkt. einer der absoluten Gewinner war…. Deshalb verweisen wir an der Stelle auch auf die Notes und ergänzen sie an dieser Stelle lediglich…

Immens mundschmeichelnde Süße aus dunkelsten Sherryfässern. Wellen an dunklen Früchten, wunderbare Herrenzimmer-Eindrücke (Tabak, Leder, Edelholz). Dazu durchgehend eine einnehmende Süße von roten Beeren, eine Idee an Erdbeer-Vanille Marmelade, Backpflaumen, Kirsch-, Blaubeer- und Brombeereindrücke. Im Hintergrund ein Hauch an Kokos, Anklänge von italienischem Edelschinken und ganz subtile springbanktypische Küsten-Aromatik (jedoch sehr dezent). Dazu wunderbar ausgewogen-elegante metallische Eindrücke, allerdings nicht ganz so intensiv wie bei den noch betagteren Vorgängern.  Zum Ende hin machen sich die satten Sherrynoten dann noch bemerkbarer und es treten ein intensiverer Eichenholzeinfluss sowie kräftigere Gewürzkomponenten (Balsamico-Eindrücke, deutliche Kräuter wie u.a. Dill und Weihnachtsgewürze) hinzu, die von der sherrybedingten Trockenheit begleitet werden. Mehr gibt es eigentlich nicht zu sagen. Ein wirklich ganz großer Sherrymalt, wie man sich ihn nur wünschen kann !

K: 93   M: 93  H: 94   F: 94    à Schnitt: 93,5 (beim letzten Tasting: 94,5)

3.)   Springbank 35 yo, OB, Limited Edition, “Millennium Bottling”, 46% (btl. 09/1999)

Der 35er baut in seiner Grundcharakteristik absolut auf dem 30er auf. Hier handelt es sich wiederum um dunkelsten „Edel-Sherry-Springbank“ aus Mitte der 60er Jahre. Die Destillate sind somit älter als die legendären Local Barley Abfüllungen und stammen somit ebenso noch aus der Zeit, als das Malz bei Springbank noch mit Kohle aus den Kohleminen nahe Campbeltown gedarrt wurde. Somit hat man allein deshalb schon einen Malt im Glas, der – im Gegensatz zum zeitgenössisch inflationären Gebrauch der Begrifflichkeit – die Bezeichnung „ultra rare“ wirklich verdient hat. Nase, Gaumen, Abgang und Struktur erfüllen die damit verknüpften Erwartungen auch in jeder Hinsicht. Die bereits beim 30er sensationell speicheltreibende Intensität der Sherryfässer wird von einer noch größeren Eleganz auf ein nochmal höheres Level gehoben. Zum einen intensivere Aromen an dunkelsten Früchten (Süß- u. Sauerkirschen, Brombeeren, Blaubeeren, dazu Dattel, Feigen), Weihnachtsgebäck, Ledercouch, Tabakbox, Edelschinken, Bacon und Bratpfanneneindrücken. Zum anderen eine edlere Verflechtung der Aromenpalette. Die einnehmende Süße wird zudem von wunderbaren karamellisierten Süd- und Kernfrüchten getragen, die von feinsten Kokosnuancen unterlegt werden und somit einen exotischen „Touch“ ins Aromenspiel mit einbringen, wie es bei solchen „Sherry-Monstern“ nur sehr selten und auch nur bei ganz alten Vertretern der Fall ist. Die typisch metallischen Werkstatteindrücke bilden zusammen mit einer dezenten Küstenbrise und einer unfassbar edlen kohlegetragenen Rauchigkeit einen genial-komplexen „Bilderrahmen“. Das gesamte Aromenspektrum zieht sich so von Nase bis Abgang in einem Strang durch und lässt keine Wünsche offen. Herausragend zeigt sich die Struktur auch deshalb, da trotz des „fetten“ Sherry-Einflusses immer wieder auch Reminiszenzen von uralten Cognacs und Armagnacs durchblitzen, was die enorme Bandbreite und Finesse verdeutlicht. Ein Sherry-Gigant – wenn man so will eine „Whisky-Kathedrale““ ! Pit Krause würde sagen: „Ein Malt wie ein Mischpult, bei dem alle Regler voll aufgedreht sind!“ Besser kann man es nicht sagen… MALZPORNOGRAFIE !

K: 96   M: 95  H: 97   F: 97    à Schnitt: 96,25

Fazit bzgl. der Millennium-Range:

Die inzwischen aufgerufenen abertausenden von Euro können der 50er, 45er und 40er qualitativ in keiner Weise mehr rechtfertigen, wenn man den Maßstab „Getränk“ ansetzt. Hierbei geht es sicher nur mehr um reinen Sammleraspekt. Die gute Nachricht für Whiskytrinker ist, dass sich niemand grämen muss, sich die drei Abfüllungen nicht mehr leisten zu können, da sie geschmacklich und in Anbetracht der damit verknüpften Erwartungshaltung wirklich nicht mehr erstrebenswert – ja sogar unterdurchschnittlich – sind. Man muss ihnen also wirklich keine Träne nachweinen… Da sind wenige hundert Euro für exklusivere zeitgenössische Abfüllungen (wenn auch nach wie vor viel Geld) sicher um ein Vielfaches besser angelegt, wenn man Preis und Qualität in Relation setzt. Bzgl. der Erfahrungswerte und aus emotionaler Sicht, sind die drei allerdings über jeden Zweifel erhaben. Wenn man sich mit der Nase auseinandersetzt und diese dann über die im Geschmack noch zu erahnende Ausgangscharakteristik dieser Brennperiode legt, kann man jedoch nach wie vor eine Reise in die frühen und späten 50er unternehmen, in denen sich die Springbanks strukturell und geschmacklich merklich von den Folgejahrzehnten unterscheiden. Als Referenz- und Vergleichsgrundlage also in jedem Falle ein Erlebnis. Wenn man die Springbank-Charakteristik dieser Zeit dennoch mal im Glas haben möchte, sollte man eher auf die alten Vertreter in der gedrungenen „Pearshape Bottle“ zurückgreifen, die in den 60ern bzw. 70ern abgefüllt wurden. Preislich und qualitativ wirklich besser !

Die anderen drei Abfüllungen aus Mitte der 60er bis Mitte der 70er werden dem Weltruhm der Brennerei in deren qualitativ sicher besten Jahrzehnt dann mehr als gerecht und bilden wunderbare Beispiele, warum die Brennerei im Ruf steht, in diesem Zeitraum mit das Beste hergestellt zu haben, was es jemals an Whisky gab. Insbesondere der 30er und 35er gehören zu den besten Sherry-Abfüllungen, die wir jemals verkosten durften.

Um qualitativ und sensorisch danach nicht in ein schwarzes Loch zu fallen, blieben wir an der Stelle einfach auf dem Level der Vorgänger-Abfüllungen….

10.)      Springbank 15 yo, 09/1964 – 10/1979, Cadenhead for Samaroli, old brown dumpy            bottle, screw cap, 45,7%, 75 cl

Unfassbar, von welcher Qualität ein Malt mit 15 Jahren zu dieser Zeit noch daherkam und ein weiteres Mysterium, wie es die alten Italiener verstanden haben, an solche Fässer zu gelangen!  Flüssiges Sherry-Understatement zum niederknien! Rum-Kugel, Akazienhonig, Süßkirschen, Rosinen, Orangenzeste und Mangoeindrücke in ausgewogenster und komplexester Machart. Heimisches Obst meets Exotik! Dazu Kakaonuancen, unglaublich dezente Glühweingewürze (ein Hauch von Nelke, Zimt, Muskat), Orangeat und Zitronat. Kein Breitseiten-Sherry wie bei den gut doppelt so lange gereiften Vorgängern, sondern subtiler, verspielter. Sensationelle Verflechtung der genannten Aromen mit Leinensackeindrücken, „Maschinenhalle auf Understatement“, edelste Lederbände und Tabakblätter, dazu Teak-Holzboden und eine genial zurückhaltende kohlelastige Rauchigkeit im Hintergrund. Ebenso schwingen im Hintergrund immer wieder die berühmten Kokosnuancen und Eindrücke von italienischem Edelschinken mit. Der Abgang weißt eine wunderbare Präsenz aller Aromen auf und mündet in wunderbare sherry- und fruchtgetränkte Edelholzeindrücke. Ein unfassbar eleganter Gentleman, der erkundet und verstanden werden will. Ein weiterer dieser unwiederbringlichen Championsleague-Malts aus bester Zeit. Lediglich in puncto Breite und Tiefe liegen die über 30 jährigen Zeitgenossen (z.B. 35er Millennium, 31er Cadenhead Chairman´s aus den 60ern etc.) noch eine Nasenlänge vorne, was bei der gut doppelten Reifezeit im Fass aber nur folgerichtig erscheint. Was da Anfang und Mitte der 60er bei Springbank an (Sherry-) Bottlings kreiert wurde, sucht nach wie vor seinesgleichen…

K: 96   M: 93  H: 94   F: 95    à Schnitt: 94,5

Und wo´s doch so schön war, gleich noch ein berühmter Springbank aus der obersten Liga…

11.)      Springbank 20 yo, dist. 18.04.1967, Signatory “The Prestonfield”, Single Sherry Cask   #1472, 46%

Strukturell wieder ein schleichender Wandel in Richtung Charakteristik der späten 60er und frühen 70er Springbanks. Anders, aber nach wie vor herausragend gut! Immer weniger metallische Eindrücke, weniger Edelschinken und weniger jodige Küstenaromatik. Durchweg intensive Sherryeindrücke (mit all den bekannten und bereits genannten dunklen Beeren), die aber mehr Raum für exotische Fruchteinschläge lassen. Wunderbare fruchtig-süße Noten an Mango, Physalis und Bananen, dazu Weintrauben und Erdbeermarmelade. Außerdem mehr Kokoseinflüsse. Das alles in einnehmender Symbiose zum Sherry. Wirklich beeindruckend und enorm süffig! Mehr an vanillegetränkten Holznuancen, Mandeln und Marzipan, sowie süße Noten an türkischem Honig mit Pistazien, Datteln, Backzutaten (wiederum Zitronat und Orangeat) und Zuckerwatte. Mit der Zeit unterlegt durch eine feine und sehr dezente Gewürzaromatik (Anis-Anklänge, Assoziationen von Liebstöckl und Kardamon – aber wirklich nur ganz dezent angedeutet). Die ledrigen Eindrücke und Tabaknoten treten dafür ggü. den Vorgängern weiter in den Hintergrund. Trotz der Farbe ein unglaublich „jugendlich-fruchtiger“ Sherryeindruck, der wunderbar Raum für diverse sekundäre Fruchtaromen zulässt und sich nie überlagernd bemerkbar macht. Ein weiterer sensationeller Sherry-Springer aus den späteren 60ern…

K: 96   M: 95  H: 96   F: 95    à Schnitt: 95,5

Die gesamte Reihe an herausragenden Springbank-Bottlings im Line-up war nicht nur wegen der sensorisch qualitativ herausragenden Aspekte ein unvergessliches Erlebnis, sondern im Speziellen auch wg. der damit verknüpften einmaligen Gelegenheit, eine Zeitreise von den frühen 50ern bis Mitte der 70er Jahre zu durchleben und die Entwicklung der Grundcharakteristika der Destillate stringent nachzuverfolgen. Wirklich einmalig !

            Zum Ausklang des Abends folgten dann noch zwei namhafte Vertreter der Islay-Fraktion…

12.)      Laphroaig, 32 yo, btl. 2015, OB, Sherry Cask matured, 46,6%, 5880 btl.

            Der zugrundeliegende Sherryeinfluss tritt eher dezent zutage. Die 32 Jahre überraschen eher, sowohl an Nase als auch Gaumen. Eindringliche Malzigkeit (feuchter Malzboden), dazu getrocknetes Dörrfleisch, dezente Gumminoten, erloschene Asche im Hintergrund. Mit der Zeit kommen dann Eindrücke von süßer BBQ-Marinade, Honigmet und Gewürzaromen von grünem Pfeffer und Kreuzkümmel hindurch. Schwarzwälder Schinken, dahinter Jodluft und eine feuchte Atlantikbrise. Am Anfang wird die Geschmacksstruktur von einer tollen jodig-öligen Süße getragen, die von Räucherschinken, feuchtem Treibholz, Grünmalz, Lampenöl und Holzpolitur ergänzt wird. Der Geschmack verflacht dann aber für einen 32-Jährigen Single Malt erstaunlich schnell und wirkt zum Ende hin etwas „schwach auf der Brust“, worunter Gesamteindruck und Komplexität merklich leiden. Die beim Händler inzwischen aufgerufenen 1200 bis 1500 Euro erscheinen vor diesem Hintergrund aberwitzig…. Da sind einige hundert Euro für alte Islay-Standards aus 70ern und 80ern deutlich besser angelegt, sofern man seine Finger da noch dran bekommt!

            K: 88   M: 88  H: 88   F: 89    à Schnitt: 88,25

13.)      Ardbeg, 10 yo, OB, green tall bottle / white label with black letters “Old Islay Malt Scotch Whisky – Ardbeg Distillery Limited – Islay”, white screw cap, 26 ½ Fl. OZS., 80 Proof, btl. ~ 60ies

Da haben wir sie wieder: Die gute alte Küstenpornografie! Islay-Emulsion auf genialstem Understatement. Vor allen Komponenten kann man die Attribute „edel“ und „elegant“ setzen. Traumhafte jodige Seebrise, feinste Torfraucheindrücke, die im Wechselspiel immer wieder verschwinden und wieder zutage treten. Ein hin- und herwogen, wie die See. Seetang an einem frischen Frühlingsmorgen, Lampenöl, frisch poliertes Schiffsdeck mit feinsten Holzplanken und Schiffstau. Das Ganze einnehmend ölig verflochten mit wunderbar süßen zitruslastigen Aspekten an Zitronengras, hellen Weintrauben, Stachelbeeren, Sternfrucht und Honigmet. Der Gesamteindruck klingt dann anhaltend in eine wunderbar elegante Konzentration von ölig-süßen Nuancen, Seeluftaromatik und langsam abkühlender Torfglut aus. Traumhaft und auf den Punkt! Unwiederbringliche Qualität aus verflossener Zeit…

K: 94   M: 90  H: 93   F: 94    à Schnitt: 92,75

Ein würdiges Ende eines wiederum sensorisch unvergesslichen Slowdrink-Abends. Wir hoffen, der ein oder andere findet sich in unseren subjektiven Eindrücken wieder oder kann für sich die ein oder andere interessante Information aus ihnen ziehen…

In diesem Sinne,

Slainté

Kerstin, Markus, Heiko und Flo

Comment: Ardbeg, of course, and not a bad one, but it is very interesting to see what increased wood influence does. These casks brought burning pine needles, resin and peanuts to the foreground (Studentenfutter-Ardbeg). But there is so much more going on: Antiseptic spray, small bicycle shop, camphor, soot, tar, iodine, peat, canned milk, peppered steak, agave, nettles, chalk and white oak. I am also getting poppyseed pastry and a dash of lime. On the palate, the resinous and spicy character is rounded off nicely by a sweet edge. Different, yet a typical Ardbeg that turns sooty in the finish.

Score: 89+

I also want to use the post to congratulate Mickey in this little video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-HrHZarOqrc