Zur Zeit überarbeiten wir diese Seiten – neu und empfohlen ist die www.walhallaofwhisky.de – danach wird diese Seite neu gestaltet (Zeit ist’s geworden )

TASTINGS JETZT HIER BUCHBAR (Button klicken): 

https://www.walhallaofwhisky.de/tastings-events/

___________________________________________________________________

Unsere Tastings (Whisky, Whiskey, Rum, etc.) – ideale Geschenke für Kenner

Wenn Ihr das Besondere sucht, kompetent und kurzweilig von Experten moderiert, nichts von der Stange, keine Eventagentur oder Verkaufsveranstaltung … dann seid Ihr hier richtig.

Seit über 20 Jahren veranstalten wir preisgekrönte Verkostungen – authentisch und non-profit. Mit einer Sammlung von über 13.000 Flaschen und dem weltgrößten Whiskymuseum im Rücken (Walhalla of Whisky), alles unter der Leitung von Pit Krause (bekannt aus TV, Radio und Presse), begleiten wir Euch voller Passion in die Welt der feinen flüssigen Stoffe (bei uns, in spannenden Locations oder gerne auch individuell zugeschnitten bei Euch). Wir garantieren wahre Erlebnisse, mehr Spirit und ‚edu-tainment‘ für’s Geld bekommt Ihr nirgendwo anders. Enthusiasmus pur. Taste with the No. 1. – am Puls der Whisky- und Rumszene!

Pit Krause beim BR

Termine 2025: Anmeldung via System auf www.walhallaofwhisky.de

BUTTON KLICKEN!

ANMELDUNG / GUTSCHEINE VIA EMAIL

info@slowdrink.de

oder bei Beratungsbedarf per Telefon unter

0160-1768777 (am besten abends)

Impressionen

Ob Whiskytram, Rhum-Verkostung in der Havana-Bar, Whiskywalk, Höhlentasting, Schottland-Fahrt, Jubiläums-Verkostung, spirituelles Dinner (Foodpairing 2.0), niveauvoller Junggesellenabschied, Probe zu Weihnachten und Geburtstagen,

good times at slowdrink

Salzboottour, Movie and Malt oder die klassischen Seminare – viel Wissenswertes und gute Stimmung stehen bei uns im Mittelpunkt. Auf Augenhöhe holen wir die Genießer ab und geben neue Impulse. Dabei helfen uns auch die engsten Kontakte zu diversen Brennereien, die wir mitunter sogar beraten. Gerne senden wir Euch Referenzen.

Für ein paar Eindrücke von slowdrink empfehlen wir unsere Galerie oder folgende Bilder:

papstgesegneter Club

Malt Maniacs

Due to my late post, I am keeping the notes shorter than usual. These releases might be still available somewhere, though – and worth looking out for.

Cognac Jean-Luc Pasquet Lot 79 Grape of the Art 41 y.o. Grande Champagne 2022 52,3%

This Ugni Blanc Cognac matured in a Limousin Oak Cask in a humid cellar and was bottled at cask strength (273 bottles). Again, like many of the GOTA-releases, it has traces of pot still rum – within the cognac range of aromas. First it plays it close to the chest, then it opens beautifully. Spices, smoked herbs, leafy moments, pastry, lemon zest, ginger, vanilla, quinces, apples, white chocolate, plums and gooseberries. On the palate it starts bitter and turns to fruit then. Cooked lemons, spices (even incense), grapes, vanilla, plums, eucalypt take center stage and then lead into a medium-long finish of  elegance.

Score: 89+

Armagnac Hontambère 36 y.o. Domaine Pouchégu 1985 Grape of the Art cask #H6 Ténarèze 56,6%

My favourite so far – wow! Ugni Blanc-grapejuice matured in a wet cellar rendered 350 bottles at cask strength. This is dark and juicy, not dry yet deep as the Mariana trench – nuts, raisins, maraschino-cherries, mahogani-wood, cristallized orange skins, lime blossom and what not – mature perfection. The taste keeps up: dark berries, raisins and morello cherries, baking spices, polished tropical woods, incredibly complex like very old sherried Speyside whisky. This Tour de Force finishes long and high class – amazing pick, boys!

Score: 92

Armagnac Domaine de Danis 33 y.o. Grape of the Art 1988 cask #34 Ténarèze 47,6%

The brighter twin of Hontambère, a Folle Blanche eau de vie matured in a wet cellar again, 387 bottles at cask strength. Full transparency as always with GOTA. Very round, pastry-like, dried apricots, bergamot, limoncello, warm cedar wood, wine gums and redcurrant and blueberries, Martinique-rhum. It tastes warm and citric, now daisies on green meadows join cardamom, berries, dark wood spice, plum cake and vanilla. So nice and light, it escapes your senses too quickly unless you drink the next sip. Drift away, my friends, this is a summer dream. And I swear, I had written this note before I saw the image.

Score: 91

BIZARREBQ-RELEASE

The latter one I could taste recently. Ardbeg states: „The connection to the topic of barbecue is not only made by the smoky notes of the peated malt, but also by the element of fire: double charred Pedro Ximénez sherry casks and specially developed „BBQ casks„, which were extra charred in an old-fashioned brazier, help the Ardbeg BizarreBQ to a special sweet-spicy-smoky aroma.“ – I found this dram successful and round, quite sooty and the pronounced notes of sweet smoke fit well. 90 points – although I categorize this as a typical version close to an Uigeadail, yet slightly more BBQ-ish.

ARDBEG ‚HEAVY VAPOURS‘ 46%

For Ardbeg Planet Day 2023 (June 3rd, online already on May 23rd) the release of Heavy Vapours is scheduled, the stronger Committee Version comes online tomorrow (25.04.), both at a price point of 135 Euro.

This expression has been distilled without the influence of their usual purifier being present on the still. The spirit has been laid down to mature in ex-bourbon casks. The purifier-apparatus on the still is responsible for maintaining Ardbeg’s balance between extreme peat and floral fruitiness as it catches „heavy vapours“ and redistilles them. Without it, what will happen?

Actually, I find the difference way smaller than expected. The ‚Heavy Vapours‘-release remains a classic and flawless Ardbeg, and it is round! The nose sports more coffee, chocolate and coal smoke than usual. There is also a greenish touch in the aroma (Mezcal-agave, Aloe, hops), but this stems more from its young age, I guess. Hot transformers, gun cleaner oil, chalk, tar, iodine, tires, earthy peat, antiseptic spray and more Ardbeggian insanity complete the intriguing nose. It tastes even more ‚ardbeggy‘ as I thought. No rough edges here, maybe a tad less sweet, more bittersweet I dare say. Smoke wafting in and out, nice dustiness, darker. An interesting yet not dramatically different Ardbeg experience. 89 points.

I have waited for this like a little child. The Supernova releases thrilled me, so what will this 170ppm phenol monster bring to the glass? Educated whisky drinkers know that the ppm content of the barley is not necessarily the defining number for tasting peatiness in the make – which Octomore shows occasionally. The phenols should be measured in the whisky instead because loads of reactions and proceedings strip away peatiness along the production process and during maturation (I can explain more in tastings if you are interested). So watch out, some parts of this peat race are a gimmick.

However, the 1970s Ardbegs had huge smoke. One should measure and compare e.g. a 1972 with the Hypernova to see numbers. I am so curious. Let’s hope it is good:

Comment: Yes, Ardbeg nose, pale colour, around 8 – 10 years, I guess… but way more farmyardy, also a bigger concentration on tar, camphor, burning green herbs and coal, less of the sweet BBQ-style at first. Composting pile in front of a mine? With time it becomes more typical, all is there, aromas like peat, soot, iodine, milk coffee, caramel (Dulce de Leche), tires, ointment, chalk, burnt oak, white pepper, weapon oil, old brown bandaids and plaster, but somehow different in array. The smoke is big, yet not as monstrous as I expected it. It renders the effects described though.

On the palate and in the finish, this becomes a real winner! Peated mocca! Sweeter now than it was to expect from the nose, a smoky chocolate bar with salt sprinkles meets sooty iodine. So Ardbeg, peatier, huge … yesss. The finish is deep and eternal. Powerhouse, but not hurtful or sharp at all – it has the thin silhouette in the middle that classic Ardbeg possesses. Maybe some time in the bottle makes this even better, I already love this project.

Is this worth the 210 clams? You decide. I bought some and look forward to cracking it open.

Score: 90+

It is a rare occasion these days that I am completely infatuated by a dram – or that I shell out 3.5 k for a bottle of it. Both happened here. I didn’t expect it to be that good … and I am glad that the group of friends on the label unearthed it and had the balls to bottle such a bomb. Respect! Loads of work and money involved in such an undertaking.

Comment: As this is pure magic, I keep it shorter than usual. You don’t explain a great joke either … . This is typical old Lagavulin yet so unique in its own amazing way. Character, character, character! This Single Cask Lagavulin starts off on balsamic leathery notes, gunpowder and big iodine. Being almost Brora-esque in moments, it is tertiary in aromas, the sherry is perfectly integrated, all is spirit-driven and complex, tightly knit. On the sweet side altogether. I am getting suckling pig skin and ears, diced roasted bacon (crunchy for more umami), BBQ-rub with herbs on pork, terpentine, ointment, old plaster, deep peat, glowing ashes, coal mine cart, cooked onions, chocolate nips with caramel, weapon oil, miniature train tracks and what not. I love it! The iodine sweetness, kid’s gunpowder and the porkiness are king here yet all this is perfectly harmonious. Great palate, eternal finish, high drinkability. Darn good, the best new dram of the year so far!

Score: 94-95 (I lean towards 95)

P.S.: Of course I was paid for my review and got three free bottles which I just popped on my yacht in St. Tropez with the boys (and loads of girls) accompanied by a mountain of coke. It is absolutely mediocre booze For real. We conspire to fool y’all, bitches! Kudos to those few Sherlocks who found us out. Great job!

Cognac Jean-Luc Pasquet Lot 68-72 Grape of the Art #3, Cask 21, 66.6%

It is very nice to see more high level Cognacs around these days. The guys from ‚Grape of the Art‘ followed that path and went for a Pasquet, a great house. This 1968 and 1972 vintage mix comes from great times. They chose to bottle it at full cask strength, which is not always a success with fine grapsters, but on the other hand, they achieve a power and ‚rumminess‘ they seek (according to their website and mission statement, as they started out with rums as their first choice). Read up on them here on slowdrink in a previous article. Now let’s put this bad boy on the road:

Comment: The abv-level of 66,6% is a tour de force, hence the spirit is closed at first. You need time and probably some water. It comes across amost like a Demerara rum in moments, I kid you not. Nevertheless its classiness shines through. I am getting spices and dark wood, gingerbread, nuts, white pepper, geranium, dandelions, licorice and Turkish delight. A minty freshness, tar, resin, banana, dates and sultanas chime in into this atypical yet impressive nose. To become more Cognac-like, you need to add water as it changes the Pasquet pirate for the better – then it explodes with aromas. It is fun to play around with water here, and it keeps changing along with it. On the palate it remains a wood-driven powerhouse a la heavy rum or Bourbon but with water, rancio, berries and finesse is right there for you. The finish revisits all of the above.

A verdict is difficult, it depends on your taste. Classic Cognac lovers need to add water and it might be a tad too brutal for them. Caroni or Port Mourant fans and connoisseurs of heavy spirits like whisky might absolutely go for it. Choose your side and give it a try.

Score: 90

Armagnac Domaine Cutxan 2006 – 2022 Grape of the Art, Cask #T37, 50,5%

Comment: Made from Ugni Blanc grapes grown in Bas Armagnac, this is a worthy follow-up to its predecessors. The boys had a good hand in picking winners. It starts with a nice grapiness and juiciness, the oak is well-tuned (good balance), Asian spice, gingerbread, licorice, vanilla, dried apricots and peaches, orange peel, lychee, nut cake with milk-chocolate glaze and a trace of leather. It goes down the road of the ‚Le Freche‘ a bit. Water is not necessary but it profits from some drops. On the palate, it shows power and spiciness, then the fruit follows. It has quite a bite, raw tads and corners, unpolished, also a bit ‚rummy‘. The water brings more fruitiness and makes it creamy. The finish delivers grapes and spices from before, becoming fresher and finer.

Score: 89

Nachdem ich einige fantastische Drams von meinen Freunden bei DTS & W (danke Jürgen und Tobi) aus diesem Hause zugesandt bekommen habe, war ich baff. Beispielsweise war ein Spitzen-Bowmore dabei (2000-2021, 56,5%, 91 Punkte), und auch ein Benrinnes 2007 (57,9%, 88 Punkte) wusste zu überzeugen. Auch die anderen aktuellen Abfüllungen konnten was.

Dabei legte mir Jürgen eine exklusive Abfüllung für den deutschen Markt ans Herz, einen Longmorn „Private Cask“ aus der Barrel Selection, den ich nun verkosten werde:

Longmorn 14 y.o. Wilson & Morgan 2007 – 2022, Barrel Selection ‚Private Cask‘ 800354, refill Hogshead / Virgin Oak, 211 btl., 48,0%

Kommentar: Der obstgartige Longmorn verträgt ein 16-monatiges Virgin-Oak-Finish bestimmt gut, war mein erster Gedanke. Ich bin eh ein Fan dieser Brennerei. Gerüchte sagen, das erste refill Hogshead war ein Caol Ila-Fass. Mmmh, müsste man beides schmecken, dazu alles ungefärbt… . Es empfängt einen eine malzig-fruchtige Nose mit Vanille, Weißeiche und feiner Würze durch das Virgin Oak (Baumrinde, Kardamom, Pfeffer). Wie immer lohnt sich Geduld, denn erst dann spielt der Longmorn die Fruchtkarte: getrocknete Aprikosen, Haribo-Pfirsiche, Macedonia-Obstsalat, Kiwi, Kirsche Banane, Beeren. Wow! Dazu gesellen sich Dosenmilch, Dulce de Leche (Toffee, Karamell, Vanille) und eine Spur Maische. Im Hintergrund kann man tatsächlich Torf erahnen, der der Sache eine runde Mineralik beimischt. Am Gaumen wird dies noch deutlicher. Dieser Dram ist toll und gleichzeitig anders. Er kommt nun leicht torfig und moorig daher, Moos, Salzlache, Moltebeeren, Geißblatt, Waldboden, Banane, Anklänge an irische Whiskys kommen in den Sinn, karges grünes Land, wenig Holz, frische Brise, viel Charakter – komplex! Auch das Finish nimmt mich voll mit, genau meine Baustelle, alle vorigen Nuancen spiegeln sich wieder in bester Balance bei großer Trinkigkeit. Spitzenauswahl und Fassmanagement. Ein absoluter Tipp (81,90 Euro VK)!

Score: 89+

Just like us, they want to share their passion for fine grape juice, esp. Armagnac, with the world and with whisky connoisseurs in particular. They sampled, traveled and learned that only few products match their expectations. So they wanted to change that and import themselves. They aim for unaltered and undiluted single casks of high quality, a road less traveled but so rewarding. The boys don’t limit themselves to Armagnacs only as their third release is a Saint Lucia Rum.

Let’s try their first releases:

Armagnac Domaine Le Frêche 13 y,o, GotA #1, 2007, 57%

Comment: This was found in the cellars of L’Encantada and stood out for quality, the cask only rendered 150 bottles at cask strength. I am stunned how mature it is after ‚only‘ 13 years. An amazing nose, dense, juicy, powerful yet balanced and with quite some rancio already. There are marzipan, assorted glazed nuts, leather, vanilla, dandelion, marigold, pepper and fruit (plums, raspberries, morello cherries, red- and blackcurrant, berry tea), Indian joss sticks and incense. Deep, dude! In the mouth it starts drier than expected and a bit demerara-esque. Licorice, mahogani and furniture polish, concentrated grape juice with dark fruitiness, chocolate raisins and spices. The heaviness carries on into a wonderful finish that leaves you craving another glass. A worthy first pick!

Score: 90

Armagnac Domaine Séailles 20 y.o., GotA #2, 2000, 54%

Comment: The second release has a nice unearthing story, let me quote: „Today we introduce you to Domaine de Séailles from Ténarèze – a small, artisanal wine & Armagnac producer founded by the Labérenne family and now passionately run by the super sympathetic winemaker Julien. By a stroke of luck, we followed a road sign as we passed through and ended up at a rustic and lovely estate. There we were allowed to explore the entire atmospheric warehouse (with chandeliers!) and were just blown away by the variety of styles!“ Again, cask strength, no additives, a single cask, 195 bottles of joy.

And yep, they picked another winner. This is sporting brighter fruits and oaky elements like caramel, vanilla, Asian spice, pepper, cedar – white oak? It is even more complex than its predecessor. I find glazed pastries, marzipan, nuts, rancio, flowers, tea, fruits (lemons, plums, chriies and berries) and this succulent red grape juiciness. It tastes excellent, even better than the nose, less wood now, more fruit juice and rancio, a complex balance with echoes of the nose. Elegant finish, very quaffable too. Super!

Score: 90+

Rum Saint Lucia Distillers 15 y.o., Chairman’s Reserve for GotA & Rum X, 2005, 61,5%

Comment: A real authentic rum that aged in a Bourbon cask in tropical climate only- wow. The make consists of 50% John Dore and 50% Vendôme. And what a funky fella‘ this is, holy cow. Not for beginners, sweet teeth or faint-hearted, more for us suckers of ‚da dirt‘ Imagine a small plastic producer’s backyard near a forest on which all kind of junk is stored: old paint, tar, diesel, rubber, dried-up glue stick (Pritt), bruised blood oranges, bananas and limes and the production hall smells on the side – weird but nice. The forest freshness and earthy tones I am getting now are joined by hints of vanilla, salt, leather, ground pepper, spices (cinnamon, cardamom), minty gum, licorice and black olive tapenade. On the palate it arrives oily and dirty as expected. Sour battery acid meets sweet minty lemon drop (Gletschereis candy), olives, rubber and pine cones. It is becoming sweeter with fruit, almonds and spice, huge complexity, rewarding finish. Don’t get me wrong, it is an unusual and funky one, but very interesting and of high quality. But you should be into such rums.

Score: 87+

Good luck, boys, and thank you for letting me sample – carry on!

Consequently, this new Ardbeg is of great learning effect. It represents a taste stemming from much longer fermentation due to a broken boiler in November 2007: three weeks instead of 72 hours, the longest in Ardbeg history! I don’t know if the yeast stopped working for a while during the cooldown. The Ardbeg team, led by Dr. Bill Lumsden, opened the washbacks to allow Islay air penetrate more intensively. An experiment was born. Dr. Bill always wanted to find out the effects of longer fermentation and the boiler accident presented itself as the chance to see. Fitting the long fermentation, a longer maturation time was granted (13 years). Ardbeg fans, be excited for this one.

Comment: This is a typical spirit-driven Ardbeg of the good kind, to start out with. The nose is a stunner, very balanced and old-school Ardbeg, sweet peaty joy. I am getting a smouldering forest fire here, loads of pine and beech smoke, soot, resin, tar, sweet BBQ-sauce, sulphur and big iodine (which I love in such drams). Of course, tires, leather, coffee roast, milk chocolate, chalk, aloe, menthol, lemon drop and herbs are there too. Also some food analogies: A burnt steak with black pepper and chili rub comes to my mind somehow. Despite the discrete wood (I guess mostly refill) there is vanilla creme with toffee sauce for dessert, some orange and apple slices on the side. All this is so enticingly sweet, harmonious and well-integrated. I expected way more funk, but this is a fine and pronounced smokiness with deep iodine and phenols.

On the palate, this has the slim and drinkable profile that is so typical of Ardbeg. Mild start on spritely, minty and acidic tones, then it builds itself up towards spice and burning embers. Round again, quaffability is king.

It finishes on depth! Iodine! Peat, tanned leather, old wood, salt, soot and chalk – and this great sweetness again.

Altogether I think the longer fermentation resulted in a profile from older days of Ardbeg in parts. Iodine, a spice-laden maltiness and round integration of all aromas are to mention. I am getting a bottle and drink it with an old friend!

Score: 90

Join the Ardbeg Committee to get your bottle (in Germany, this is 8th February 2022)!

Cognac Jean-Luc Pasquet ‚Organic‘ 2006-2021, Cask 27, Grande Champagne, Kirsch Import, 50,1%

Comment: This is as ’single‘ as it gets! From their own hand-picked organic grapes, this eau de vie was self-distilled on gas, and filled into single casks. I kid you not, it starts out like a Calvados. So many apple aromas (pie, green apple, compote, tart tatin) and vanilla jump out of the glass, then big banana, pears, raisins and butter join in. Sandal wood and oak are also playing a major part. Fresh linen, lime-infused cake glaze and white chocolate complete this unusual but harmonious nose – fresh!

On the palate it arrives sweeter than expected, mainly on baked apples, butter and oriental spice. Round and sound – winey acidity, grapes and yes, Calvados, show up. Very alive!

It finishes on medium-length with spice from exotic woods, fruit (apple, banana, grapes) and vanilla pod. A wild and unusual ride with a fresh experience in the field of Cognac! One to learn a lot from …

Score: 87-88

Cognac Vallein Tercinier ‚Small Batch‘ 41-43 – 2021, Kirsch Import, Bons Bois, 78 btl., 48,2%

Comment: A rare Single Estate and cask strength Cognac gem from WWII. which is now sold by a German importer – how times have changed for the better! That alone is heart-warming. It has spend its life in cask until 2006, then in Dame Jeannes (glass balloons). Let’s nose: ooops, who put the Bowmore 1968 in here? Almost kitsch in terms of fruitiness (passion fruit, guava, papaya, pink grapefruit, apple, lychee, plum, raisins, cherry) and berry aromas (all kinds, cassis etc.), uber-fruity, joined by minerality and the discreetest old wood – almost purely spirit-driven! It also plays fir twigs, moss, humidor, rancio, vanilla, lilacs, violets and so much more – in perfect balance like a finely tuned stereo!

It builds itself up on the palate, from mild to strong, from floral, acidic and wood-spice elements to huge exotic fruits, berries and a nutty rancio aspect with sweets! An amazing development in my mouth! I recommend big sips here – don’t miss this!

The finish should be illegal! All is reunited like on a huge water colour painting in which every now and then another highlight shines out. A piece of art, and not tired at all! Amazing pick with history – get it!

Score: 92

Cognac Bache Gabrielsen American Oak (Double Maturation) VSOP/4 y.o. for Kirsch, Single Cask, Fins Bois, 64,1%

Comment: This is a crazy one, very unusual. The producer with Norwegian roots is known for going modern and special ways in Cognac maturation. We loved the blue XO at cask strength from 15 years ago. This new release for Germany has spent its life in French and Tennessee oak and the Ugni Blanc grapes came from the Fins Bois region. Not your classic stats. But boy, taste this powerhouse. Heavy Hervé-style :).

With this one you can fool most people at a tasting – mix it among the whiskies and nobody complains. The mature nose is clearly showing American oak characteristics like vanilla, pineapple, banana, peaches and coconut. The grapes and raisins play second fiddle. Also there is some marzipan and white oak. Basically like a Pina Colada from the Charente! It tastes and swims well, no off-notes at all, vanilla-cream-style, and: more cognac shines through now. Honey, flowers, espresso, creme brulee, hints of tropical fruits. The sheer power is fun and the balance is surprising. Of course, it is no complexity monster after four years of maturation, but it tastes darn good! Not for cognac purists, but great for whisky fans and people who love to transgress borders. Simply a good drink. Stay curious! The long finish leaves you puzzled by what you just had. Cool and fun choice!

Score: 87

Finest Jamaican Rum, over 25 years old, Duckhammers / Wu Dram Clan, 164 btl., 50,1% 

Comment: I love the label. And estery rums. So let’s dive into the parrot’s feathers: Often older Jamaicans lose their funk, but here it is well-preserved yet more balanced and mature – a great nose! It starts out with old brown bandaids soaked in iodine, olive tapenade, almonds, ripe banana, star fruit, hot mulch, glue and bitumen – all with a sweet overtone, enticing! Gletschereis drops (a classic German sweet for refreshment from way back, lemony-minty in taste) meet caramelized burnt sugar, licorice, veggie stew, burnt raisins, roots, fence coating colour can, malaga ice cream (rum-raisins), Yuzu and Sicilian lemon.

It tastes likewise and so goooood – noble funk! Milder than one would expect (great alcohol integration), all on high class, lending itself perfectly for the early session of estery rums – or for an introduction into this category on highest quality. Long finish! I NEED MORE.  On the side, this probably is the most guyanese Jamaican I had, which is not a bad thing – both worlds meet here. Wow. Me want parrot now!

Score: 90+

Ledaig 25 y.o. Wu Dram Clan / Duckhammers / The Whisky Kingdom / Kyoto FWS 1995 – 2021, Hogshead 143, 50,6%

Comment: Education first: The peated Tobermory has risen to stellar quality in the vintages 1972/73, when they shared the malted barley with Brora, Talisker and such, as rumors go. Try and you know what I mean. After these years, Ledaig somewhat changed into a lesser peaty, leathery dram with somewhat volatile distillates, not often bottled. Only after 2005, the heavy peat returned with partly great results and higher outturns in the indie market.

This specimen is a perfect example of an outlier of the good kind. I am glad the Wu-sters dug up this one. After a great younger Kraken which I loved, they follow up with the second octopus.

The nose clearly is in the in the sour-fruity and spicy camp, autumnal somehow (fallen leaves), very nice and off the beaten track. At first I am getting tangerine, raspberry, kiwi, kumquat, grapefruit, peach, lemon drops, ginger, malt, yeast, leather, willow wood (aspirin, anyone) and glazed nut pastries. Inriguing mix. There also is sheep wool in a woollen mill, wet earth and discrete peat, hay, ginger bread, hazelnut, vanilla, incense, licorice, egg salad, brine and pepper. Compexity! It keeps getting fruitier by the time.

On the palate it is powerful and laden with spices, sour fruits and leather. Old wood meets shoe shine on fine leather brogues, willow branch, peach and licorice again. Water is not hurting it, try as you please.

It finishes long while becoming sweeter, the spices remain, nuttiness also joins the crescendo. The perfect dram for this time of year on a walk through the forest. Beware of tree krakens!

Score: 90

Ardbeg 20 y.o. OB 24.05.2001 – 10.06.2021 Wu DRAM Clan’s Private Reserve, Refill Bourbon Barrel 348, 155 btl., 46,6%

Comment: Let’s start by NOT arguing about its price. It is a personal decision to splurge on great booze, which this undoubtly is, and such are prices of Single Cask releases by Ardbeg or DIAGEO these days. No one has to buy, so leave it there. I think it takes big hairy balls to bring such babies to the market. So kudos – why not! We don’t judge price , only quality matters.

Many people were so keen on trying this. I am glad to be in the position now, I gave it two sessions. Not the shabbiest of moments :).

A typical Ardbeg right from the start, the refill Bourbon barrel allows the oily spirit to shine. Weapon oil (Ballistol), tires, burning pine cone, iodine, peat, leather, ointment, tarry rope with kelp, lemonized oyster, chalk, minerality, coal, aloe, menthol and mezcal, dirty harbour smells, cannon smoke – the whole spiel of a great Ardbeg in sweet background, aaahhh.

It tastes even better than it noses as it takes the direction of old-style Ardbeg now on leather, soot, flinty smoke and pine resin – no off-note here, just classic mature South coast Islay goodness with the typical slim and sweet profile in the middle, which every Ardbeg should have (sorry 8).

The amazing finish swells with iodine, soot, peat, flint, chalk, hints of espresso and burnt tires. A very good mellow cask that takes us back into the 1970s for moments!

Score: 92

Today on September 7th, the new manager Colin Gordon and Dr. Bill Lumsden send a third release into the ring, sourced from American oak and ex-Oloroso casks. On the label it actually reads ‚Bottled: In a lockdown‘. It took a while as it was stuck in the UK for months due to Covid-related shipping issues, but now the wait is finally over. Let’s go into the infight:

ARDBEG TRAIGH BHAN 19 y.o. Batch 3, 46,2%

Comment: A group of pot-smoking cowboys on sweaty horses rubbed with ointment underneath their old leather saddles ride into a coffee roastery while firing their guns in the air. After that, they clean their silver pistols with Ballistol oil, have some hot chocolate, milk coffee, others sip on Pu Erh tea, sherry or even lime juice, one replaces his iodine-soaked bandaid, another one writes ‚Islay Renegades were here‘ with chalk on the blackboard of offerings, one removes the nettles, thistles and resin from his socks and boots, as they all rode in from a nearby peat bog Sorry, but it noses like that. It is a wonderful and typical Ardbeg on the sweet and leathery side with discrete Oloroso influence. I am also getting nuts, completely nuts, and white pepper. Older style indeed, complex and balanced.

On the palate the fired weapons rule over all the other aromas, really cool – I love this profile. However, it is a bit too thin and low in alcohol to fully keep the amazing promises of the nose – for me. Some might exactly like this subtlety. Big sips help. This is suitable for being served in the middle of a tasting session to start the peatsters. Then it shines.

It finishes sweet, sooty and kelpy with loads of iodine. It grows on you and goes the long way if you let it. Now the cowboys have a BBQ on the beach after a storm. Join them and get a bottle of this noble Islay dram. The George Foreman of Ardbeg whiskies, or was that Axel Schulz?

Score: 89+

P.S.: Here is the official tasting note in German:

Ben Nevis 24 y.o. Wu Dram Clan / Duckhammers / The Whisky Kingdom 1996 – 2021, Bourbon Hogshead 1408, 290 btl., 45,6%

Comment: Aaaahh, a spirit-driven, waxy fruit bomb that develops. Gooseberry, white peach Bellini, grapefruit, passionfruit, kiwi, baby banana, yellow plum, pineapple, caramellized blood orange, redcurrant, wild strawberries and meet vanilla, gorse, New World Sauvignon Blanc, whipped cream, coconut, macadamia, fresh linen, latex (yes!), white pepper, ginger powder and discrete oak.

On the palate it delivers in balanced and gentle yet growing manner. The 45,6% are fine, just fill your mouth. Sour fruit compote, salty brine, exotic fruit, chocolate, kurkuma, ex-Bourbon oak, toffee, all very well-integrated. It is getting bolder by the minute and finishes big and fruity.

Drink this in bigger sips for full pleasure – rather early in a tasting session. I love its subtle details of excellence like in a fine watercolor painting. A tropical treat from the Highlands, Wooooorrrd!

Score: 91

Cognac Grosperrin No. 71 Heritage 1971 – 2021 – for Flickenschild – Petite Champagne, 52,3%

Comment: This was chosen as a Malternative at full proof – a Cognac for whisky drinkers that Guilhem Grosperrin inherited somehow (it was originally sold for two NGOs) and took care of it. Now it was bottled exclusively for Flickenschild / whizita.de. The story is on the bottle to read up on. Let’s taste it:

The oak is playing a role after 50 years, but it is well in check – malt heads will enjoy this (vanilla, pepper). Floral elements (lilac, lavender, violets, roses, mint, lemon verbena, flowerpot) meet glazed lemon cake (Amerikaner), white chocolate, cinnamon and nutmeg. Beeswax, tobacco… more and more aromas emerge, it needs time to unfold. Then nutty rancio joins in and many (dried) fruits like apricots, lemons, limes, orange skin, wild strawberries, mirabelles, lychees and gooseberries. Complex and balanced, the alcohol is well-integrated.

On the palate sweet and sour elements battle like in a familiar westernized Chinese duck recipe. All in all, it is darker now. Raisins, figs, dried apricots, nuts, lemony tastes and waxy maturity make their presence felt.

The finish takes you on a journey through all the stages from before, very exciting and long.

Score: 89

Jean-Luc Pasquet Cognac Lot 68 – 72 Kirsch Import Limited Edition, 1968…1972 – 2021, Fins Bois, 59,1%

Comment: This multi-vintage assemblage (1968 – 1972) from the Fins Bois was Sebastian’s first pick in his role as grape ambassador for Kirsch Import. And these crus really combine into a super power. A dream of a Cognac, which wasn’t to be expected from its sheer stats – such stuff usually vanishes in the blends of big houses. With this example you can discover how great this alternative way can be, I am so glad it was bottled this way – read why:

Enticingly sweet, nutty and leathery start, a tightly-knit and balanced potpourri of darker elegance. A fist inside a velvet glove. Juicy, balsamic complexity, quite some rancio, soaked spice cake, cherries, dates, maracuja, kiwi, cristallized orange, marzipan, macadamia, nutty pastry (Nusshörnchen), chocolate, vanilla, juniper berries, tobacco, humidor. Crazy!

It tastes as good as it noses, more berries like cassis chime in into the complex mix, even black truffles can be found. And it swims well, try water too, just amazing. This is truly a legendary cognac.

The crescendo leaves you crying for more of this awesome grape juice. Amazing pick! With each tasting session you love it more as it has a drinkability despite its power. Don’t buy, leave more for me !

Score: 92

Before I differenciate, both have the Caroni funk and typical traits for these years:

Common notes of both: Jungle undergrowth, banana skin, camphor, ointment (Ichthyol), iodine, resin, sanitary napkin, tar, scented tobacco, fresh mint, rose stems and vanilla – all in all a heavy load, almost overburdening the palate. Let’s go from crazy to nuts:

CARONI 1998 – 2021 Single Cask Trinidad Rum, Cask #2109, 226 btl., 62,2%

Comment: This is the rounder and fruitier one with berries, more accessible and not as dry as its partner – aetherial clouds of aromas somehow. Along the notes above I am getting a deep and spicy impression, huge complexity. Berries, dragonfruit, babana, plum, orange zest, rum-raisin ice cream (Malaga), leather, bitumen, jute sack filled with coffee beans, cinnamon chewing gum, ski waxing workshop, glue, cedar wood, forest floor, mulled Christmas wine (nutmeg, clover, cinnamon, ginger, red wine, etc.), daisies, poppy seed pastry with sugar icing (‚Mohnschnecke‘), new car oil and what not – a crazy ride. It is intense yet balanced, spicy and fruity on the palate, water straightens it out and pushes the berries and tropical fruit center stage, but it can be enjoyed pure as well. The finish is long and soothing. However, we are talking heavy duty here over all.

Score: 91+

CARONI 1997 – 2021 Single Cask Trinidad Rum, Cask #59, 224 btl., 60,6%

Comment: This is the spicier, drier and dirtier one, it bites like a jungle viper – no prisoners taken. Tar, licorice, old oil, resin, olive tapenade, hot mulch from jungle wood, rotten banana skin, nutmeg, pepper, chili, burnt caramel, cocoa, juniper berries, painted pine cone and quite some wood influence. A Voodoo Monster that will split the audience. The palate is a full-on attack, peppery spices and woody dryness bite with adstringency, then relief, wow, dryness gone suddenly. Banana, oak and undergrowth are dominant. I recommend water for this one, as it levels out the aggression and allows the subtle berries and fruit to be discovered – but it also depends on your daily shape. On some days, pure is fine – a great one either way. Somewhat brutal but complex, and therefore, very entertaining. Muscle rum, looong finish!

Score 90

So choose which style you prefer – or get both. Stellar rum that won’t become cheaper and gets rarer by the day. WU!

Beschreibung: Hallo, das ist ein wahrer und typischer Ardbeg ohne jede Offnote, auf der würzig-ledrigen Seite befindlich. In der Ledertasche finden wir das Torf-Jod-Schwefel-Kombo, antiseptisches Spray, Mullbinde, BBQ-Sauce, Lagerfeuer-Rauch, Senf, schwarzen Pfeffer, Seegras, Aloe, Zitrusfrische, Milchschokolade, Latte Macchiato und Reifen. Auch gesalzenes Karamell, diverse Nüsse (v.a. Paranuss, Cashew und Macadamia), Vanille, Sägespäne und evtl. Virgin-Oak-Spuren kann man erriechen. Der Einfluss der Sherryfässer, wohl refill, wirkt nur indirekt ordnend. Klassisch und gut bisher.

Am Gaumen ändert sich aber so Einiges im Vergleich zu den Klassikern: Hier tritt er nicht schlank und süß an wie seine Artgenossen, er beißt pfeffrig zu – fast wie ein Talisker, dazu viel Holz (eher frisch wirkend, ich schätze Virgin Oak-Anteil, müsste mal nachfragen) in cremiger Textur. Definitiv Paralleluniversum Je nachdem, wie man seinen Ardbeg mag …

Wild wird dann langsam zu süß, wenn der Abgang einsetzt. Das volle Ardbeg-Aromenrad kommt wieder zum Zuge, und ja, leichte Echos der Sherrycasks sind auch da – ein schönes Finish. Die 65 Euro sind absolut fair.

Note: 88

As a pre-release, the somewhat stronger Committee Edition has been released now (115 Euro). The 46%- version will follow from May 25th on for the same price at embassies, online and in shops. Go get Colin Gordon’s inaugural release.

This scorchy Ardbeg was matured in heavily charred white oak casks (ex-Bourbon). Knowing former expressions, this is a winning formula for me. It just works magic on the peaty spirit, adding a sooty and sweet environment that elevates iodine, tar and BBQ-notes. Let’s see:

Comment: Yes, winner. The charred casks rendered an old-style cokey Ardbeg that takes you right into a rainy pit lane on a racing track: tarry tires, diesel, wet gravel (chalk and flint stones), oil, driver’s leather gloves and what not. We also smell hospital notes like old bandages, antiseptic spray, big iodine, cough pastilles and camphor. Nuuuurrse, please! The third world I get teleported to is a BBQ at the beach with grilled lobsters and herbs, a fish smoker (Arbroath Smokie), olive spread, coal fire, sweet smoke, soot, peat and embers, BBQ-sauce, honey-mustard dip and cocoa nibs for dessert with fine tea. Somehow the Scorch keeps all these together in good integration and harmony. Additionally, there are fired pistols, black liquorice, saddle leather, burnt cake, pepper and chili-flakes, resin, plums, vanilla and oak. Big and bold. On the palate is also appears bigger than usual Ardbegs, more spice, green elements lead in and get burnt away by the big black smoke of heavenly sooty sweetness, aaah. Iodine, peat, all crazy stuff from the nose reverberates here. A powerful, sweet, smoky and harmonic finish ensues this pleasure sip for chimney sweepers. Complexity and joy. Well done, little dragon!

Score: 89+

Beschreibung: Der recht helle Tropfen ist zwar einerseits sofort als Ardbeg zu erkennen (Torf, Jod, brennender Trafo, Reifen), weicht aber im Bereich Süße deutlich ab – er präsentiert sich trockener und „baumiger“, womit gemeint ist, dass sich viele Spuren des Eichenholzes finden lassen: Würze (Chili, Pfeffer, Wasabi), Harz, Vanille, Lakritz, Weidenast, Wacholderbusch, Nussschale und Räucherkammer wären ein paar davon. Diese Holznoten sind nicht dominant, machen diesen Ardbeg aber weniger Destillat-getrieben und weniger ausbalanciert. Der Roggen gibt indirekt eine gewisse Härte, man riecht Getreidekörner, Bohnen heller Kaffeeröstung, Kreide, Gurkenglas, Teerdach, Torfrauch, Distel, Nessel, Manchego-Rinde, helle Zitrusfrüchte, Birne und Banane.

Am Gaumen tritt der Arrrrrrrdbeg eher trocken und mild für seine knapp 52% an und folgt seiner Nasen-Aromatik. Die typische schlanke Mitte dieses Destillates ist vorhanden, aber die Süße ist zurückgehalten. Vor allem Erdnüsse, Eiche, Gurkenwasser (oft in Rye-Whiskys auffindbar) Teer und Harz treten bei mittlerer Reife in den Vordergrund.

Der Nachklang wirkt zuerst klassisch, klingt jedoch weicher und schlanker bei mittlerer Länge und im holzigeren Kontext ab. Torfwärme und Jod, Kokosschale, Paranuss und Teer verbleiben im Crescendo.

Als Fazit ist festzuhalten, dass ich überrascht war, wie sehr doch die Rye-Vorbelegung einen Ardbeg verändert, ein sehr spannendes Experiment. Dieser Dram wird mit Sicherheit im Reigen diverser (Nach-) Reifungen seinen Platz und seine Freunde finden. In Deutschland ist er ab dem 09. Februar 2021 für 150 Euro erhältlich. Arrrrrrgh!

Bewertung: 87

Beschreibung: Wir haben ihn im Team probiert und fanden den Traigh Bhan II sehr gelungen. Uns gefiel die mineralische Kalkigkeit, seine Typizität („der ist ganz klar ein Ardi“) und die Komplexität, alles rund und wertig, für große Schlücke. Man kann seine Reife deutlich wahrnehmen, da sind massig Sekundär- und Tertiäraromen in Esterform gebildet worden. Auch viel Jod, antiseptische Pflaster, Reifen, Trafobrand, Teer, Milchkaffee, Feuerstein, Streichholz, Leder, Zitrone, Pflaume, grüne Kräuter (auch Tee), Tomatenmark, Chiliflocken und Aloe Vera sind zu finden. Und natürlich Torfrauch, der aber viel mehr transportiert als in wilder Jugend. Man wünscht sich ein paar mehr Umdrehungen, das ist aber das einzige Manko an diesem wirklich feinen und kompakten Ardbeg – ich leg‘ mir sicher einen zu. Er erinnert an seinen Vorgänger, der süß-cremige Abgang ist ein Traum.

Bewertung: 90 Punkte

Having been a brandy buff and collector for many years, the situation is exciting for me and our club. Slowdrink has always been focused on being open for various drink categories. We have released Brandy many years ago, I met with great producers to learn, educated people in tastings and at fairs about it and I blend products and judge ‚grape juice‘ in competitions. So finally our enthusiasm is catching on. Therefore, I forgive the lack of experience and knowledge of some newbies in this huge and difficult field for the love of many new Cognac and Brandy lovers who come from the whisky world and expect equally high standards of quality and transparency. This helps Brandy too … and it helps whisky people develop finer sensoric skills because Cognac and its brothers are way harder to differenciate.

The grape distillers did many things long before whisky producers did, and many Scotch and Irish techniques originate in France and Spain as Cognac was the main noble spirit of the world back then and for so many years – phylloxera helped other fine spirits become visible but Cognac stayed king way into the 1980s. Nowadays it lost some track in Europe, but this is about to change – if the Charente learned from mistakes and can adapt. I also see a rise in quality in Grappa, another very exciting drink distilled from pomace.

Cadenhead, LMDW, SMWS, Maltbarn, WhiskySponge and others have started to release single cask Cognac and Armagnac recently, some great, others atypical. Woody and fruity brandies like those of Vallein Tercinier become sought after because they can offer what only very expensive old Malt Whiskies render in terms of matured esters (e.g. Bowmore fruit and berries) despite not being typical. The departing from burdening tradition has negative sides to it but I like the general development to a large extent and wish that a broader variety of producers and crus will follow soon. We will also release something again in the future. Stay tuned!

Come to a tasting and learn more, e.g. rancio, boise, prune juice faking, wine choice and crus, oak differences etc. – Brandy is awesome and historical.

Our friends at Wu Dram Clan joined the crowd recently and have released a very old VT from a single cask from the renowned cru of Grand Champagne. I feel confident to test-drive this baby now:

Comment: What makes older VT great is the immense complexity. We have it here too. A mix of spicy (cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla, pepper from wood, oriental spices), fruity (crystallized fruits like apricots, plums, figs, sour cherries, apple rings and berries), floral (violets, lilac, elderflower, marigold, daisies), bitter (lemon and orange peel, Italian apero bitters) and sweet elements (white donut, sugar-coated pineapple, marzipan, marshmallow) in fine harmony boggles the mind. What a spirit, so vivid yet mature! Little to no rancio. It is slightly on the woody (hey, it is 53 years old!) and floral side on the palate at first, then the big wave of aromas follows suit. It lands so softly and mildly, more berries and cassis notes emerge. As a single cask, it has atypical and exciting moments. In comparison, the VT Hors d’Age is darker, rounder and sports quite some rancio, this version is spicier, drier and more complex, a wilder ride all in all. Hold on tight, it is a world-class Cognac that will blow you off the rocker if you like it wild and challenging!

Score: 90+

Cognac 49 y.o. ‚Petite Champagne‘ 1970 – 2019, barrel, 49,2%

Comment: We don’t know the producing house but I have a hunch. It is very well-balanced, and no overboarding wood disturbs the pleasure full of nuts, plums, pineapple skin, tobacco smoke, Oyster Sauce, flowers, Asian spices, fruit cake with dried and caramellized fruits. Medium rancio though, this is more on subtleties on the lighter side – it unfolds lik an onion, give it time..it gradually becomes darker in character. medium-long finish. A high class Cognac, very typical. Not a 1960s-Bowmore-esque Berry Bomber, though (if you search for that unsusual profile).

Score: 89 – 90

Irish Single Malt 29 y.o., 1990 – 2019, barrel, 48,5%

Comment: When Irish Malts become this old, they become rare and expensive. Also did the load of older Emeralds dry recently, so this is really cool. This dram is still malty and has some wood spice to counter enormous tropical fruitiness, berries and lemongrass. Creamy, milky too, somehow: pineapple-vanilla milkshake, anyone? On the palate it plays out its strength the most: Mangos meet berries and blackcurrant. Yeah. I am a sucker for uber-fruitiness. Medium-length finish. Maybe not the best Irish from these years but certainly a great one. Got me a bottle…

Score: 91

Irish Single Malt 21 y.o., 1998 – 2019, barrel, 51,3%

Comment: A good age when usually fruitiness explodes in Irish drams. Is this in its prime yet? Yes. Wow, I like it. Bushmills 21, but more naked. Fresh and fruity, berries, vanilla, blackcurrant. All the way well-balanced, icecream topping quality. Absolutely typical, recommendation.

Score: 90 – 91

Irish Single Malt 16 y.o., 2003 – 2019, barrel, 51,9%

Comment: How does the youngest Irish contender hold its own? It is a nice example of a grassy and lemony version, discrete oak influence (spice), coconut too. Creamy, fruity, smooth, honest. Pistacchio. A good dram.

Score: 88

Littlemill 27 y.o., 1992 – 2020, hogshead, 52,3%

Comment: Thyme on roasted lamb, other Mediterranean herbs, pineapples, apple juice, Pak Choi, vanilla pod, pine cone, traces of Bourbon. Fragile and elegant all the way.

Score: 91

Secret Highland 34 y.o.,  1985 – 2019, hogshead, 47,0%

Comment: I like the pink grapefruit in this (hint – hint), nice old profile with big fruitiness and no offnote, fresh too, so spirit driven. Mangos, berries, blackcurrant, pineapple, maracuja and what not. Is there a smoked pink grapefruit? It would taste like this. Who needs distillery names

Score: 91+

Arran 17 y.o.,  2002 – 2020, Barrel, 49,2%

Comment: Spices on apples and pineapples, coconut, cappuccino froth, vanilla, peaches, Tarte Tatin, honey, pear cider, rosemary, Marshmallows, ozone, mossy brine. A fine Arran.

Score: 88+

Ben Nevis 23 y.o., 1996 – 2020, hogshead, 47,6%

Comment: Lychee sweetness, peaches, mango, herbs, roses, Alpine cheese, vanilla, apple crumble, sugar-coated nuts, honeyed malt, sandalwood candle, almost no wood. Amazing Ben Nevis from a great vintage for this distillery, fruitier than usual. Wow. This is en par with the Maltbarn release from last year which I adore as well.

Score: 92

Ledaig 25 y.o., 1995 – 2020, hogshead, 48,5%

Comment: Quite an aged Mull malt, rare indeed. The peat is secondary here, broken down into coastal aromas now. Malty, chalky, mineral, salty, briny. Air-dried ham, kiwi, peaches, melon, Atlantic seabreeze, wool, windswept sheep shack wood (sorry :)), leather, pepper. A pan of scallops deglazed with Vermouth and whisky. Aaah, this grows on you with every sip.

Score: 89+

Comment: Release the Kraaaaken! Cool label, thanks to Boris for providing me with a sample. I am a sucker for Ledaig anyway. Let’s taste: Very clear and focused, no nonsense peated Mull malt: immediately a bath of island peat, nice sweetness too, like digging herbs from wet earth. Aaah, historic shoe wax on polished Italian calf leather Oxfords, green apples and tea, pineapple, Lardo ham, stewed plums, tar and quite some chalky minerality (Loire wine). It evokes several images in my head like grey wood planks on an old windswept shed, freshly shorn sheep wool (no joke!), sea shells and Galician octopus cooking in a creamy Rias Baixas white wine reduction with herbs – high class! This is a very elegant version (compared to sister casks I had). It also shows great balance with enough power and a well-dosed oak influence that renders a seductive sweetness to the leather-peat-Island Combo. Long and complex finish that echoes the mentioned aromas and turns nicely flinty. Super choice, boys, I hadn’t expected this great quality from the stats on paper. One of the finest younger Ledaigs out there! Recommended.

Score: 90

This sample arrived late due to postal issues with Covid-19. I was so happy when it made it. Great to see an addition to Ardbeg’s core range, especially as this ‚Little Beast‘ has an age statement. The five years don’t worry me, peated whiskies are way more drinkable in younger years than normal ones. Of course, you lose some complexity but gain sheer power on the other end. However, a higher abv would be even more to my liking… but this has to fit newer palates in the market as well, so this is ok. And, forgive me, it really looks cool. The contents were taken from Bourbon and Oloroso casks, refill, I would reckon. Let’s have a dram:

Comment: Powerful and typical, extremely smoky (like thick clouds packed into a hole in the earth – quite mezcal-esque) and direct hit. No mash aroma, this is good antiseptic and peaty Ardbeg. Altogether it has a greener profile (herbs, green tea, pear, apple, Aloe, pickles) and spices are key (pepper, leather, jalapeno). It also sports chocolate, chalk, flinty sulphur, lemon dash, prosciutto ham, cold brew coffee and vanilla, even shortbread and a hint of cherry brandy. However, my beloved iodine is tuned on low. Not low on complexity, but wilder an greener than usual. On the palate you can detect the rounding-off effect of the sherry casks (well done), the Ardbeggian sweetness is there – and big smoke. Still balanced, not overpowering, not weak, just about right. Vanilla, and „welcome“, iodine, green elements, fired guns, leather and discrete old wood. Nice long finish. No monster, a good Islay Mezcal Proven: For this whisky, no weird finishes are necessary. Absolutely recommended for its price below 40 bucks.

Score: 88

Always make the best out of a situation. Isolation gave me time to taste some really nice drams after my nose was not congested anymore. My friends Boris, Martin, Dino and Maic provided me with some quarantine tipples. Thanks, guys! All of these are not expected to score low and I have heard good things, so this will be nitpicking. So without further delay, here some notes to distinguish:

Highland 36 y.o. Mancarella 1983, Hogshead 50, 47,3%

Cristallized tropical fruits (star fruit, pink grapefruit, lime, pineapple, maracuja, etc.), coconut, apple strudel, the wood is there but wonderfully discrete and adding interesting spice aromas that totally fit in (pepper, cinnamon, resin, supernice oakiness, all tuned well). It reminds me of older Springbank in moments, then it is very Tomatin-70s again, which might very well be the origin – what a combo. 91+.

Speyside Malt 46 y.o. Maltbarn 1973 – 2019, Sherry cask, 68 btl., 49,7%

Darker and sweeter in terms of wood than the predecessor, also somewhat rooty at first. Nutty, liqueurish, tropical fruits, Manuka honey, cristallized orange peel, Asian spice, dark wood, marzian It becomes brighter with time in its spectrum, peaches, pineapple, kiwi and marshmallows come to the fore. Very complex, take your time with this one. 91-.

Highland Malt 32 y.o. Maltbarn 1987 – 2019, Sherry cask, 159 btl., 49,9%

Great harmony, old sherry wood, plums, cherries, raisins, kiwi, leathery spice, dark chocolate, X-Mas-cake, nettles, tobacco. A classic profile fitting a Chesterfield club chair setting in a mahogany room. Chewy, gimme more! 91-.

Secret Speyside 24 y.o. Brothers in Malt 1995 – 2020, Bourbon Barrel 1409061, 261 btl., 52,1%

May I say the M-word? Smells just like an Easter Elchies House Malt Great fruit acidity, depth and balance, hard to grasp this fruit basket with discrete spiciness. Citrus fruits of all kind, pineapple, dried apricots, white grapes, hive, spring flowers, nutcake, roasted hazelnuts, wine gums, ginger, leather … soooo Speyside! The subtlest of smoke lingers within this harmonic dram where the oak is only traceable in secondary and tertiary aromas. High class, a sipper for all day, no offnote here. Great choice. 91.

Springbank 19 y.0. The Whisky Kingdom / Duckhammer’s 2000 – 2020, Refill Sherry Hogshead 669, 50,8%

Spicy over all, and with its typical maltiness, discrete peat in background, milky oats, Serrano ham, fresh grain, peaches and apricots (Bellini), strawberries, cherries, coconut, almonds and marzipan, salty brine, seaspray and ozone (nice coastal freshness), pepper, rubbery leather, moss, very complex, a smoky one that also lets fruit build up – there is lots going on, „Daddy like“! 91+.

Invergordon 46 y.o. Mancarella 1972, 49,2%

Pina Colada (Pineapple, coconut, cream, rum, vanilla) on speed! Typical old Invergordon, and perfect as such within its limits, sporting sweet juicy oak, catnip, mulch, fudge, cinnamon, nutmeg and  loads of maple syrup. It offers elements of the worlds of Bourbon, Rum and old Blended Whisky all in one, and White Russian. Dino’s third great Invergordon, nicely done, dude. 90+.

Clynelish 23 y.o. Maltbarn 1996 – 2020, Bourbon cask, 170 btl., 48,7%

Waxy and spicy, fruit acidity: there are aromas of leather, candles, hay, Sauvignon Blanc, then a great fruitiness breaks through (Granny Smith apples, peaches, passion fruit, pineapple, satsumas, gooseberries, plums), then persipan, beehive, ferny rocks, lime lemonade, wasabi, slight traces of darker oak bitterness as an antidote – all in excellent harmony, and highly drinkable. Plus, I love these pictures on the labels. 90.

Lochindaal (Bruichladdich) 9 y.o. Brothers in Malt 2010 – 2020, Bourbon Barrel 4337, 241 btl., 58,9%

From a rare run that is slightly peatier than Port Charlotte make. Well-dosed peat smoke still allowing complexity to come through, nice and original. Chalky minerality, kelp, fish smoker in action (yeah!), freshness of salty sea spray, resin, rubber boots, green tea, sheep shed, toffee, lime dash, roots, leather, wasabi … and sweeter than expected on the palate. A great example of a complex Islay Malt with hints of Campbeltown-esque maltiness. 90.

Caol Ila 20 y.o. Maltbarn 1999 – 2o20, Sherry cask, 118 btl., 48,9%

A dusty version (old sherry cask), interestingly different but still a typical Caol Ila (juniper in kelp, black olives), quite a lot of peat smoke, one for discovering more layers. 89.

Octomore 8 y.o.Maltbarn 2010/11 – 2020,  Bourbon and Wine casks, 43 btl., 58,3%

Read the label for more insights. A cheesy peatster, tar, seaweed, nettles and herbal weeds, dried apple rings, lemon skin, shed by the sea, leather, Virginia tobacco, smoked mackerel, sweet on palate with mentholated moments that dissolve into a peat, resin and iodine combo, loooong finish. Typical and good. 90.

Comment: No worries, this is an Ardbeg nose, at first on the sooty and smoky side. Typical features like peat, iodine, antiseptic spray, tar, sulphur, leatherbag, hot transformator and green herbs are right here. However, the wine casks left their traces: somehow this Ardbeg is drier due to woody oak tannins (and cedar). Resin and more aromatic smokiness than usual. Also I am getting a rooty aroma that reminds me of small cask maturation. Later, strawberries, raspberries and cranberries chime in discretely. Nice and unusual, I must say.

On the palate the wine casks speak way louder. The tongue hits a dry oaky wall at first, tannins stripped the beloved Ardbeg sweetness in parts. Not as balanced and slender as usual. The elements unfortunately don’t integrate so well altogether.

The finish is a bit shorter than usually in terms of Ardbeg but it builds itself up nicely, smokily and sooty. If you like dry Islay styles, this is for you – but it departs from the typical south shore tipple. A good whisky but not en par with an Uigeadail or a Corry, if you ask me. But I like to try out new things, and this finds fans for sure. Taste and decide for yourself, don’t follow the herd: „Baaaaaah!“, goes the sheep, tame in nature, shorn to be wild.

Score: 85+

Andreas Isopp

I like it when things are done correctly, thoughtfully, nerdy. Such is the case with the freshly launched rum importer ‚Rum-Exchange‘ run by Andreas Isopp. Our friend Andreas does source real rums and bottles them at cask strength without any additives – all that with full transparency, partly even informing on the place of maturation  (tropical > continental). Some of his rums even undergo finishing in Sherry casks. As a side note, the bottles really look cool. Now let’s review their taste, starting from early to latest release date:

#001: Jamaica – Trelawny 5 y.o., 2013 – 2019 Oloroso Finish, 355 btl., 61,5%

Comment: This, of course, is a rum from Hampden Estate.  It aged in ex-Bourbon casks for three years, then it was transferred to Oloroso wood for the remaining period of aging. Usually I am sceptical of Sherry finishes in rum, but with a funky and dry ester-monster, it might just add nice dimension. And exactly this happened. The sweet Jerez wine compements and fits like a glove, it polishes not too much of the exotic spiciness and leaves brighter fruitiness alive. Really exciting! One of the finest rums in the last months, I have to admit. I am getting leather, snus tobacco, many spices, very mature tropical fruit, citrusy elements, multi-vitamin-juice that is starting to ferment, resin, tar, and: pressed sour cherries. All these aromas are well-integrated and play with each other peacefully: earthy funk meets sweetness and leaves you craving another sip to grasp this complexity. What a great first release!

Score: 91+

#002: Jamaica – St. Catherine 5 y.o., 2013 – 2019, Ruby Port Finish, 350 btl., 59%

Comment: Same idea as above, yet a different sweet wine and distillate from Worthy Park, which I usually adore. However, this one worked out only ok, not great. Port finishing is difficult though. This rum aged four years in tropical climate (Bourbon cask) before it was ‚deported‘ (forgive this pun) – one year Port finish in continental climate left its marks: the distillate is tamed (some mnight love that), for me a tad too much. It is tightly-knit and oozes raisins and various kinds of berries, Jamaica reggaes on in the background only (aromas of an empty leather bag of weed, dark wooden pipes, orange and lemon zests, maybe even Usain Bolt’s rubber running shoes On the palate the aromas still battle, tensions can be felt. The wood influence is a bit doctored, but I think this rum has many friends who are into cask-driven whisky and rum. Junkies of typicality might dislike it. Anyway, a very interesting and tasty learning experience (Jamaica vs. Port).

Score: 86

#003: Belize – Traveller’s Distillery 10 y.o., 2019 – 2019, ex-Bourbon (tropical aging), 300 btl., 60,8%

Comment: Traveller’s Distillery struck me as a great source for naturally sweeter rums (Middle American style) with some weight to them, something for the sweet teeth ready to step up a notch on the ladder of quality. And this release lends itself perfectly for converting people to real rum. A very mature nose with ample oak hits the nostrils like a pastry, more in a style of old Domenican Republic releases at first, but then it shows its home Belize in clearer ways: Vanilla, caramel, fat nutty oils (Macadamia, almonds, coconut) and cedar wood rule over lime blossom, honey, cinnamon and cream. Spicy elemenst chime in (chili, resin, kurkuma) to set a counterpart. The palate is more elegant than you would expect from such a baroque nose, this rum is never cloying yet sweet n‘ oily – roasted sugarcoated nut heaven which lingers on quite a while. The wood spices balance the sweetness here. A maelstrom of sheer goodness if this style is yours.

Score: 89

#004: Guyana – Port Mourant 11 y.o., 2008 – 2019, 250 btl., 58,3%

Comment: PM, my favourite mark. And it is a brighter version of demerara juice which gives me great hopes for an excellent spirit-driven experience. YES! So typical of Port Mourant, which I consider as one of the finest distillates around. Sorry, but wow: I succumb to this great complexity and balance in such a powerhouse. Wet humidor, olives, band aids with iodine, grilled Sunmaid raisins, snus and Virginia tobacco, bruised dates, tar … for a start. Then mentholated sweet drops („Eisbonbon“), prunes, warm mulch, polished magogani, Romeo y Julietta cigars (unlit), leather, vanilla, licorice, pine cones, pepper and diesel come to the fore. A carousel of crazy aromas, so wonderfully awkward yet fitting together perfectly. A full-score nose! On the palate it is less wild,  sweeter than expected and very balanced. It shows high drinkability and Finesse, an exciting rum. If only it had not been tamed this would be the T-Rex. An absolute recommendation at this price below 90 Euro!

Score: 91-

#005: Barbados – Foursquare 2009 – 2020, 59%

Comment: This is a preview, the rum is not released yet (probably at the end of March). Thanks for the advance sample, Andreas! So we Keep this shorter: you can expect a great natural rum again, very balanced and soft for its make. This Foursquare is fresh and displays lemon balm, coconut, vanilla, green tea, herbs, chewing gum, mulch, cedar, soft smoke, olives, licorice, cinnamon, kurkuma and peppers. Something for everyone, also for hotter days. Elegant Barbados.

Score: 88

We would like to wish Andreas Isopp the best of luck in the business and hope to get more of such fine rums! Maybe we even team up for evil elixirs in the future Reward his efforts, get ya‘ some!

Kommentar: Toller erster Eindruck, noch eindeutiger als das Standard-Destillat, reif wirkend. Hier ist Jod, starke süße Rußigkeit, Torf und Kaffee stehen sofort im Raum, Fischräucherofen, Wildleder, Tabak, Moos, Kampfer-Sauna-Aufguss, Trafobrand, H0-Schienenöl, Kreide, Vanille und Schokolade, dafür kaum die Aloe-Note und Eukalyptus (ich nehme dies anders wahr als die offizielle Verkostungsnotiz). Genau meine Baustelle, keine Schärfen und doch so komplex und würzig. Im Mund wird er tatsächlich mentholischer, dann zündet das Islay-Feuerwerk, das in perfekter Balance zur Süße steht. Erdloch-Lagerfeuer-Kaminkehrer. Aaahh. Kein reines Powerhouse, eher rund und süßlich-rauchig, wie eine gepimpte Barbecue-Sauce. Der Abgang bringt schöne Rauch-Schwefelwolken zum Torfruß, Arbroath Smokie-Planke, abgefeuerte Kanone, Harz und Jod. Man will sofort nachschenken.

Score: 90

Aroma: Wunderbar balancierter und typischer Neunziger-Ardbeg (sweet n‘ deep), der schon die kaktusartigen Aloe Vera-Anklänge späterer Jahre aufweist. Keine Offnote, gut, jodig-tief, würzig und vegetal (Tomatenstauden), wirklich fein und zwischen den Gegensätzen leicht und schwer wandelnd. Hauptsächlich findet man Torf, Teer, Harz, Kalk, Gerbleder, Milchschokolade, Kaffee, Ananas, Zitronenzesten und Paprikapulver. Zwar bemerkt man die Sherryanteile nicht direkt, doch indirekt verleihen sie dem Traigh Bhan Tiefe.

Geschmack: Kohlig-vegetaler Antritt, alles eher leicht, dann süßer und schwerer werdend durch Jod, Torf, Harzrauch, Teer und Leder – auch klassisch und gelungen, Ardbeg mal elegant.

Nachklang: Mittellang, erdig-torfig, stimmig. Wer auf puren und gereiften Brennereicharakter steht, mag diesen Vintage Islay. Bitte mehr davon!

Bewertung: 90

Entsprechend des Karneval-Mottos erwartet uns laut Dr. Bill eine prächtige Aromenparade im sommerlichen Stil, da der torfige Tropfen in amerikanischen Rumfässern nachgereift wurde. Das Committee-Bottling hatte 52% und kam bei uns gut an (89 Punkte), hier stehen wir bei 46% in strohfarbener Eleganz. Ich bin gespannt, wie sich diese Ausmischung im Vergleich verhält:

Verkostung: Schon beim Einschenken breiten sich süßlich-jodiger Torfrauch und frisch geteerte Straße aus, man ist sofort auf Islay. Apfel, Limette, Ananas, grüne Banane und Datteln sowie Gartenkräuter im schweflig-rußigen Räucherofen, heißer Trafo, Gerbleder, Gunpowder-Tee, Kreosot und alte Salbe in braunem Pflaster, Nadelbaum (insbesondere Kiefernharz), Latte Macchiato mit Vanilleschuss und peruanische Bitterschokolade – alles fein eingebunden und komplex. Ein zitruslastiger und leichtfüßiger Ardbeg, den Rum findet man nur durch seine indirekte Wirkung, die mehr Süße evoziert. Eine interessante Variante mit milderem Abgang als die Committee-Version, die im Sommer am Strand viel Freude machen wird.

Score: 87

Invergordon 45 y.o. Single Grain Scotch Whisky 1972 – 2018, Bourbon barrel, 49,5%

Comment: Classic flawless grain nose, on the crossroads between rum and Bourbon, very mature: vanilla sweetness, maple syrup, marzipan, well-oaky but fits in, marshmallows, Big Red chewing gum, almonds and coconut, fudge, cardamom and nutmeg, pineapple, peach, apple juice, fruit-infused tea and fruity pipe tobacco mix, catnip. On the palate, it is quite oaky and spicy at first, then it gives room to the complexity of the nose, loooong vanilla carpet all the way into the finish.

Score: 90

Ardmore 20 y.o. Mancarella 1998, Bourbon Hogshead, 51,9%

Comment: On the farmyardy side altogether with greener fermentation notes and cheese, aroma-laden coal smoke, peat, leather, yellow apple, olives, shoe shine, flowery elements too. Nice mature palate with a sweet malty backbone, peatier than the nose with my beloved flintiness. Complex and deep.

Score: 89

Dino visits Pit

Aultmore 21 y.o. Maltbarn 1997,  50,7%

Comment: This is fruity-herbal and also juicy, very well-balanced. I am getting strawberry, cranberry, lemon, orange, macadamia-cookie, herbal infusion, and a discrete leafy bitterness in the nose. On the palate more wood Comes through (yet still within borders of good balance), but spice is clearly there.

Score: 89

Glentauchers 21 y.o. Maltbarn 1997 , 48,0%

Comment: A mild and sour-fruity dram, very typical for this underrated distillery. We have lemon and grapefruit, green tea, lemongrass, white peach, a hint of ginger and white pepper, fresh laundry, asparagus, smoked herbs and moss. It reminds me of a racy Riesling , excellent balance, too.

Score: 90

Speyside Distillery 29 y.o. Maltbarn 1989, 49,1%

Comment: This Oldie is very fruity (tropical: orange jam, passion fruit, white peach) but also has some malty sweetness, nice spices, creamy vanilla, like a baroque Palatinian Riesling – great in taste and balance, and sooo juicy!

Score: 90

Braes of Glenlivet 23 y.o. Maltbarn 1994, 48,7%

Comment: This quite rare Single Malt offers autumnal fruit and leafs, (blood) oranges, grapefruit, sour apple rings (Haribo), catnip, some flowery freshness and acidity.

Score: 88+

Glenrothes 22 y.o. Maltbarn 1996, sherry cask, 48.7%

Comment: This one is my favourite in the bunch along with the Springer, so alive and sexy with leather and spice, orange zest, cinnamon, forest honey, Stollen, raisins, a hint of sherry, perfectly balanced and enticing. Mooooreish!

Score: 90+

Springbank 15 y.o. Maltbarn 2003, sherry cask, 48,9%

Comment: Sprinbank back on top with sheer quality and great oak usage – meaty ham, salt and spice, brine, maritime wind, cookies, brighter and darker fruits (peach, warmth of earth, plums, raisins, redcurrant), Parmigiano Reggiano and blue cheese. Tasty stuff.

Score: 91-

Caol Ila 14 y.o. Maltbarn 2004, 53,7%

Comment: A typical Caol Ila in the right age, very herbal, great palate and a very long finish. Good Islay quaffer!

Score: 88

Andi Christl besuchte Pit und die beiden hatten richtig Spaß!

Man unterhielt sich über Whisky als Genuss- und Entschleunigunsmittel, Sensorik, historische Flaschen und das im Bau befindliche Whiskymuseum sowie Pits Lehrberuf und seinen Werdegang. Pit legt selbst keinen Wert auf Titel wie Whiskypapst oder Preise seiner Flaschen – es geht ihm um die Sache des slow drinking und Lebensfreude. Dennoch bleiben manche Superlative dabei nicht aus. Ein Whisky-Enthusiast lebt seinen Traum.

Also reinhören, dies sind ein paar Auszüge des Interviews. Danke an Bayern 3 und Andi.

Aroma: Wie bei vielen Finishes ist das Resultat eher im Geschmack zu finden, die Nose, zeigt den Rum nicht klar an. Dafür ist sie aber richtig fein, ein reif und rund wirkender Ardbeg mit seinen typischen Merkmalen steigt einem in die Nase: Trafobrand, Reifen, Seegras, Jod, salzige Seeluft, Torf, geröstete Kaffeebohnen, Gerbleder, Pfeffer, Chili, Schokolade, Erdnüsse, grüne Kräuter, Spinat, Dill und Aloe Vera. Volles Spektrum. Was hier anders erscheint als bei den klassischen Abfüllungen sind deutliche Kiefernzapfen, Harz, mehr Vanilleanteil mit etwas mehr Holz (keine Angst, der Dram bleibt „spirit-driven“) und ein tropischer Einschlag durch trockene Ananas, Blutorange und Limettensaft. Auch Datteln, Gras und warme Erde (Rindenmulch im Olivenhain) tragen zu diesem leicht süßeren Gesamtbild bei.

Geschmack: Ah, the rum is not gone – hier erkennt man seine Spuren deutlicher als zuvor, jedoch nie aufdringlich. Dieser Ardbeg ist milder und süßer im Antrunk, ohne seinen Charakter zu verlieren – wie ein schön frisierter und in ein Hawaiihemd gesteckter Islay-Fisherman mit Bart und Brusthaar. Ananas, Apfel, Zimt, Banane, Datteln, Olivenöl, Vanille, Kaffee, Leder, Bitterschokolade, Erde und Mulch sowie aromatischer Torfrauch mit Jod. Das ganze ist enorm trinkig und angenehm, Ardbeg für die Sonnenterrasse.

Nachklang: Auch hier kein Kastrat, sondern ein herrlich spaßiger Ardbeg, der keine einzige Offnote aufweist. Zugänglicher, verspielter, etwas leichter, aber dennoch mit Aussage, wie Kinski an einem guten Tag. Der Rum bringt die Jodsüße stärker heraus, angezündetes Streichholz für brennende Kiefernzapfen, Vanilla-Espresso am Strand von Port Ellen mit Torfschwaden im Hintergrund. Could you be loooved …? Indeed. Ich mag ihn.

Bewertung: 89

Rare 21 y.o. Select Cask

This bottling was done for and chosen by some real malt heads (see picture) who love their Lagavulin dearly. As it is a rare sensation that DIAGEO allows original bottlings for a certain group, this is a special gem. I am very excited and hope this is good (as it was really expensive). Let’s taste:

Comment: Holy…, OmG! This is great from the first whiff. I could smell this for hours and it touches my soul. No joke, this is probably the best nose I had in 2018, full score. Why such praise: very complex and interwoven balance, deep, all elements fit together, like a huge orchestra with all musicians playing yet no instrument takes centre stage. The Tannoy speakers of Lagavulin, full of peaty, medical and leathery goodness paired with maturity. Here we have the precise middle between cask and spirit influence, going hand in hand, not tired but refined – a maelstrom of peat, iodine and sweet wine from very elegant old-style wood, like only the greatest of the great have. 21 is an ideal age for the Lagavulin distillate of this cask type.

I am now getting Shisha tobacco, roasted peanuts, gunpowder tea, dates, bacon-wrapped plums, cedar-wrapped Romeo y Julieta in a mahogany humidor, mmmh, and mint, like having a Mojito in the back of an authentic old Cuban bar. More pleasures chime in: espresso macchiato, chalk, iodine, gorse, kelp, vanilla pod, cough syrup, BBQ-glazed baby back ribs after 12 hours of smoking, bonfire and the combo of good sulphury smoke and peat. Aaaah….

On the palate it doesn’t disappoint at all, yum, but I am almost glad that it doesn’t go on with perfection like before – otherwise I needed more bottles   It is more on the liqueur-side than expected and wins out when drunk in big sips because the body is slick and elegant, no bruiser. Water is not necessary. All the above elements are to be found, but leathery spice paves the way nicely. It somehow unites Lagavulin power with mild and smooth character traits in a slender body.

The finish is earthy and sweet at first, then lit matchstick, flinty gunpowder and an iodine-esque peatiness linger. What a treat and a worthy dram for the occasion – these are the moments … amazing pick, boys! A must-have for the devotee. Free refills, anyone?

Score: 94+

Thanks to Donnie and Boris for the sample.

SMWS 35.219 Glen Moray 2003 ex-Chardonnay Barrique 14 y.o., 57,2%

This is a Germany-exclusive release, also titled and described in German – nice. And it is a winner that was chosen by a jury of German connoisseurs. A very „mortlachy“ Glen Moray, I must say because it has quite some smoke, a dry meaty and sulphury edge and metallic undertones. Old wood notes meet grapes, mango, Peach, orange zest, muesli box, ginger and chili, coal, pine needles and Aperol Sprizz. Funny and interesting nose on the dry and malty side of things. On the palate it Shows greatness, very round and flawless. Malt and spice-combo leads to honey sweetness, fruits and wine – like a watercolor painting that hints at things in a subtle way. It finishes long and metallic with all the aroma’s reminiscences glowing up shortly. Water makes it sweeter and sends the chilis to the fore. Quite a ride, like on Autobahn A3 in heavy traffic

Score: 88

SMWS 35.194 Glen Moray 2001 ex-Oloroso 1st-fill, 16 y.o., 59,8%

I am sure this release will find little common ground. I find it fungi-flawed like many of these casks that only display sulphury raisins, blue cheese and grapey sweetness – no distillery character and complexity. However, some love it exactly for this profile.

The nose is intact: rich and malty nose, dark honey, oak, pistachio, mash, hints of fruit (apricots and gooseberries), sulphury raisins, Spanish vinegar, ginger, chili and ginger, coal, eucalypt, chocolate Lebkuchen, not too bad. However, on the palate it displays the described flaw. Raisins, blue cheese, flinty sulphur. the spices save it a bit from being too monodimensional. Water also helps. I declare the discussion on this one as open…

Score 83

SMWS 35.204 Glen Moray 2001 ex-Bourbon/new oak, 16 y.o., 58,9%

This one is much less debatable. It has quite some wine character on the one side and wood spice on the other, almost bordering on Bourbon territory (yet smoother). Nuts, vanilla, cloves, maple syrup, salted caramel, honey, figs, dates, sulphury raisins, oranges and sweet tobacco big time. On the palate the sherry starts to speak more, with hints of the fungi-problem, but also juicy aromas. No water needed.

Score: 87

This was an interesting head-to-head comparison. Now I am glad to also try other releases as well.

SMWS 5.60 Auchentoshan 2000 ex-Bourbon/Oloroso, 16 y.o., 56,5%

The most surprising one in this set, it is beguiling. What a great cask! Very much like an older Glen Keith in moments. So creamy and full of Bourbon cask goodness, aaah! Mango on creme brûlée, coconut and pineapple meet Werthers Originals toffee, gooseberries, linden blossom honey, ripe pear, roses, orange zest, cinnamon hazelnut, amoroso sherry, calvados, vin santo, Bailoni Apricot liqueur sweetness, full on! All he way to the end this is powerful, complex and well-balanced. A clear buy!

Score: 89-90

SMWS 68.11 Blair Athol 2009 ex-Bourbon 7 y.o., 57,9% 

Forest Floor in late autumn, aromatic and fresh, then it becomes a sweet pasty like a cinnamon sticky bun with nuts, Marzipan fruitcake, honey-glaze and dessert wine. Water makes it even sweeter, one for afternoon tea parties.

Score: 87

SMWS 66.104 Ardmore 2008 ex-Bourbon 8 y.o., 60,1%

I love Ardmore at all ages. The younger ones don’t dissappoint but are a bit greener and sweeter than predecessors from the direct firing period of distillation. This one reminds me of a Bunnahabhain Moine in the nose. Like having a green tea on a frehsly tarred road near to an Islay distillery. Ashtray smokiness and aromatic peat, herbs, Aloe, juniper, metal, BBQ-sauce, mustard seed, ginger, apples, black pepper and chili – a powerhouse. On the palate it is way sweeter and more comlex as one would think. Everything tightly woven together like a Tsunami of peaty whisky goodness plus some iodine. So balanced and refined, you want another glass. Wow. Another recommendation!

Score: 88-89

Speyside Region 28 y.o. Mancarella 1989 – 2018, Bourbon cask, 93 btl., 47,6%

Comment: Very fruity (pink grapefruit, maracuja, garden fruits) and full of blossom honey. This has good maturity and balance, the wood is exactly right. Mint, chili, bloody steak, a trace of ginger and the sweetness of vanilla pastries in the nose. On the palate it delivers similarly. very soft but lacking a bit of power. However, it is so refined, I forgive – a winner, again.

Score: 90-91

Invergordon 44 y.o. Mancarella 1973 – 2018, Bourbon cask, 106 btl., 52,3%

Comment: Those Grains are winning ground in the community of whisky nerds. A profile in the middle between Rum, Scotch and Bourbon makes them very complex at higher age. This one is no exception. Clear grainy whiffs meet Barbados-Rum (coconut, pineapple, soft smoke, vanilla), demerara sugar, lime blossom, blueberries, resin, maple syrup, apple crumble with cinnamon, gingerbread and what not, an amazing Bourbon cask did ist work here. For sweet teeth and lovers of complex drams. Wow!

Score: 91+

The 22 y.o. is from spring 1996 and was matured in Bourbon barrels only. I hope it can stand up to a wonderful Cadenhead Ardbeg with similar stats we recently had. Let’s taste it:

Comment: I had it on three occasions and it presented itself slightly different each time. Overall, it is a soft and sweeter Ardbeg, one for big sips, not too loud, very rounded, a dram for the second helping. Give it time and it will reward you. It brings old as well as new Ardbeg character to the table, a real mix that is not as „beasty“ as usual, more on the fruity side of things. However, it has the classic profile in its DNA, but if you are into pressure on your palate, this isn’t for you. It starts on coal, sweet smoke, vanilla, freshly sawn firs, Mezcal, Granny Smith apples, green tea with bitter elements, tar, kiwi, lemon drop, chalk and white pepper – plus the peat, tar, burnt trafo and iodine. All that is balanced and shy. On the mild palate, leather and apples take center stage, chalk and peat meet fruits. It is complex and tightly woven together, discrete, no powerhouse but one to drink another glass. Maybe it is easy to miss and tired in moments, but I like it for its special character and smooth style.

Score: 89/90

Glenrothes 10 y.o. The Shining Dram, from butt, 52,9%

Comment: I call this a greenhouse dram. I am getting floral elements, linseeds, orchard fruit (pear, apple, cider), green grapes, tomato plants, wet malt, pistachio, lemon zest and white pepper. All is in balance and a typical dram for ist age. Water opens it up a little more.

Score: 84

Glenrothes 20 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 51,5%

Comment: This older version is wonderfully fruity (already esters of tropical fruits like passion fruit, but also orchard apple, Haribo’s sour apple rings and orange zest). There also is a fresh mintiness. The dram is a great combo between sour fruit elements and woody spices with vanilla. Although the oak is a bit loud, the oily mouthfeel and apricot fruit reward the drinker manifold.

Score: 87

Ben Nevis 19 y.o. The Shining Dram, from Bourbon hogshead, 48,6%

Comment: To start with, this is one of the most unusual drams I ever had, hence very Ben Nevis (which I like). Yes, an awkward mix awaited me but it is very interesting and mind-boggling. It will find its lovers and haters. The spectrum of aromas consists of hazelnut bush, cereals, mashy youthfulness, canned coffee milk, sheep stable and ewe’s cheese, fresh paint, coal, cocoa powder and Indian curried pickles. On the palate it is a wild ride in unusual terrain of old wooden planks, persipan, and all of the above. Cool yet crazy. Give it a try!

Score: 87

Auchroisk 24 y.o. The Shining Dram, from Bourbon hogshead, 43,5%

Comment: A summer breeze high in the Alps, this is the headline here, Fragile but so complex and lovely. Great balance and maturity, floral lightness, like a summer wind in a flower dress on an ‚Alm‘. We also have fruitiness (kiwi, strawberry, Austrian apricot), coconut, iron, grass and vanilla cream. Very elegant and a must-have for fans of this profile. Big sips recommended.

Score: 90+

Blended Malt 23 y.o. The Shining Dram, from sherry hogshead, 51,1%

Comment: X-Mas cake (‚Christstollen‘ soaked), very juicy – the sherry is perfectly integrated and not dry, which is rare at this high intensity. Rumtopf, raisins, figs, cherries, blackberries, cinnamon, orange zest, dark Wood – all in balance and full expression. Stunner!

Score: 90+

Orkney Single Malt 12 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 50,6%

Comment: Give this one time and it will rock your world. Starts youthful and with great balance, then it becomes more mature. Mossy river, peaty Highland floor with heather, herbs, ozone, black pepper, juniper, sloe berry, hazelnut shrub, sweet malt, Turkish delight, white chocolate, litchi, kurkuma, olive oil and more. It tastes wonderful and manages to combine two worlds: lightness yet being heavily loaded with aromas. The malty sweetness and complexity in coastal style is breathtaking. Buy!

Score: 90

Caol Ila 10 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 53,3%

Comment: A typical example, and a nice one too. Like a walk in a mediterranean olive grove with a glass of Islay Whisky. Oven fire gone out with spent coal, juniper, olives, resin, licorice, fishing boat (ropes, kelp, fish, seashell minerality, peat, ozone, green tea and Lemon chicken. On the palate it is well-balanced, spirit driven and naked, enticing! Flintiness joins in as well as a sweet oily maltiness. Pure Islay with finesse!

Score: 89

Overall, I am quite impressed with this debut. Well picked, Markus!

You can get these drams, prices and pictures on the website: www.theshiningdram.com

Bruichladdich 8 y.o. Maltbarn 2009 – 2018 Chateau Lafite Cask, 65,5% (Release #92)

Comment: A cask from one of Bordeaux‘ finest wineries, world-reknowned. The strength of this Laddie is brutal, I suggest to add some water after a while. It is a spicy-hot version (ginger, chili, wood-infused spices) that deals well with the sweet malt and wine cask elements which create a nice counterpart. Hints of green Haribo apple rings, Pineapple, peaches, canned milk, strawberries and oa7k come through. The wine becomes more detectabe on the palate and suits the dram. Young but already expressive.

Score: 87

Bunnahabhain ‚Moine‘ 5 y.o. Maltbarn/Signatory 2011 – 2017 hogshead, 61,9% (Release #84)

Comment: This is heavily-peated Bunnie, the stuff which is in many undisclosed Islay bottlings these days. Camphor meets peat in a dryer and steely style, also salty and herbal. I am getting Bacon-drizzled Barbecue coal, juniper, olive oil, lemon zest, ozone freshness, antiseptic bandaid and more. On the palate it is a bit Mezcal-like at first and way softer than one would expect from the Monster nose. Water releases more sweetness – astounding complexity at such a young age.

Score: 86+

Port Charlotte 10 y.o. Maltbarn 2007 – 2018 Margaux-Cask, 61,5% (Release #97)

Comment: I like this, a very typical and round one, the rooty style of peatiness is a PC trait. This powerhouse is balanced out by sweetness that adds complexity. Water helps but is not necessary. The wine also left traces of raisins and blue cheese.

Score: 88

Springbank 26 y.o. Maltbarn 1992 – 2018 Bourbon cask, 51,0% (Release #100)

Comment: An honour to try this – and a good choice for the jubilee. A fine example of Springbank with loads of fruit, coconuts, jamon saltiness and all that jazz older Springers offer – in an austere and mature style and great balance, not oily though. The Bourbon cask shines through wonderfully.

Score: 91 (emotionally 100)

Zum Ardbeg Day am 2. Juni bringt die Kultbrennerei wieder eine witzige Sonderabfüllung auf den Markt, die zuvor als fassstarkes Committee-Bottling wenigen Glücklichen vorgestellt worden war, der Grooves. Dieser im Sinne eines englischen Wortspiels an die 1960s angelehnte Ardbeg verdankt seinen Namen eigentlich den Rillen (engl. ‚grooves‘), die bei den verwendeten Eichenfässern das Flächenauflageverhältnis Holz-Destillat, und damit den Reifungseffekt, vergrößern sollen. Dies geschah bei der Jack Daniel’s Sinatra Edition auch schon, die für diesen Ardbeg verwendeten Fässer sollen aber stark getoastete Rotweinfässer gewesen sein. Abgefahrenes Rezept aus Hippiehirnen (verzeih mir, Dr. Bill) – hier ist ein ‚cask-driven‘ Whisky zu erwarten, der vom normalen Ardbeg ein wenig abweichen wird.

Tasting Note: In der Nase ist dieser Dram zuerst deutlich als Ardbeg zu erkennen (Torf, Jod, Trafobrand, Barbecuesauße, Lagerfeuer, Speck, Reifen, Sattelfett etc., vgl. viele der auf unserer Seite verkosteten Ardbeg-Abfüllungen), doch es gibt Abweichungen, die sich mit der Zeit verdeutlichen: Der Grooves liegt eher auf der holzigen Schreinerwerkstattseite und wirkt süßlich, die Toastung addiert Rußaromen. Nach ein wenig Zeit im Glas geht er ab wie Jimi Hendrix in Woodstock, man nimmt erhitzte Gewürze wahr (edelsüßer Paprika, Zimt, Pfeffer), bittere Kräuter, Pinienrauch harzigen Charakters, rote Äpfel, rote Johannisbeere und Leder steigen auf. Mit der Zeit wird er immer ungewöhnlicher und wie ein ‚crafted spirit‘ moderner Art, man kann sogar Granatapfelkerne, bitteren Apertif (Martini), Wermut, Orangenlikör und Pampelmusenschale erriechen. 

Der Geschmack, der bei Ardbeg meist ins Süße mit Schokolade und Espressonoten sowie Jod geht, ist hier leicht, bitterkrautig-likörig und weich („mellow“) ausgeprägt – fast wie ein torfiger Aperol Spritz mit Bitterorange in manchen Momenten, dabei stets trockener werdend. Auch englische Marmelade, lauter werdendes Eichenholz und die typischen Ardbegnoten finden sich im Hintergrund, der rußige Rauch bleibt bis zum Ende.

Fazit: Very groovy, das muss man diesem mutigen Experiment lassen. Für Ardbeg-Puristen ist er vielleicht nicht geeignet, aber wer einmal ein anderes Gesicht dieser Brennerei kennenlernen will, ist hier genau richtig. The Sixties were experimental times, right? Open your mind, klebt die Prilblumen-Aufkleber und füllt das Glas mit diesem leicht rötlich-braunen Islay-Blumenkind, das für mich der Ardbeg Spritz für den lauen Sommerabend in der Kommune ist. Ein Fun-Dram, der auch gut in die Jahreszeit passt!

Happy Ardbeg Day und danke Tobias für das Sample.

Score: 86+

Kommentar: In der Nase absolut typisch, rund, malzig und komplex, Pfirsich, Kokosnuss, Guave, Mango, Passionsfrucht, weißschokolierte Früchte, viel Honig, Minze, Spur Anis, Holz bringt Würze und ist noch nicht zu !aut. Am Gaumen ähnlich, ebenfalls äußerst rund und gelungen mit genug Kraft, Fruchtkorb, insbesondere Maracujasaft mit Honig, Creme Brulee; auch noch Säure neben der fetten Cremigkeit, spät auch Anis. Gewinner!

Score: 92

Speyside Region 43y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1973 – 2017, Sherry Butt, 51,3%

Kommentar: Kiwi-Bombe (DER KIWI-Whisky) und Tropen-King (Maracuja, Birne, Kokosnuss, Mandeln, Zotrusfrüchte, Guave, Sternfrucht, gelbe Äpfel usw.), Eiche zuerst da, aber noch nicht zu viel, dann weniger werdend, fette Vanillecreme im Krapfen, Honig, interessante geringe Würze, Leder, Minzfrische, dunkle Planke. Im Mund folgt er der Nose mit Frucht und Creme, auch Kokos, doch der Abgang wird kräftig und würzig, fast scharf (pfeffrig und holzig) . Lang! Afterburner – if you like a rollercoaster (zuerst mild, dann richtig holzwürzig werdend).

Score: 91+

Speyside Region 26 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1991 – 2017, Sherry Cask, 50,6%

Kommentar: Klassischer Jens, sehr harmonisch balanciert, Sherry gut eingebaut und nie pappig, eng verwobene Aromen, interessante Würzkomponente, die alle anderen Aromen gelten lässt aber das Ganze interessant hält – auch irgendwie frisch in Momenten. Marzipanstollen! Orangeat, Feigen, Rosinen, Zwetschgen, Lebkuchen, Vanille, spät dezente Tropenfrucht dezent auftauchend. Am Gaumen ein klassischer Speysider aus dem Sherrycask, süß und trocken zugleich, ausgewogen, bitteres dunkles dumpfes Holz eines Refill-Fasses, Bitterschokolade, aber später auch helle Anteile (z.B. Aprikose) und Würze, wirklich schwer zu fassen, ein Chamäleon. Malz, Staub. Würziger Abgang mit weißem Pfeffer und Wasabi. Hochinteressant und eine Empfehlung. Den habe ich mir auch geholt.

Score: 90

Orkney Single Malt 13 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 2004 – 2017, Sherry Cask, 50,5%

Kommentar: recht typisch, gut balanciert, frisch, maritim, salzig, Brackwasser; kaum Sherry-Einfluss, schöne Würze (Pfeffer, Leder, Ingwer), dezent fruchtig (schon anteilig tropisch, Äpfel, Aprikosen, Pfirsich, grüne Trauben weiß schokoliert), schon reif und doch Malz und Silomaische von Brauereien. Am Gaumen beeindruckend für sein Alter mit feiner holzig-ledriger Bitterkeit (edel, frisch, wow) Sternfrucht und  Apfel trifft Maische und Malzigkeit sowie Würze, helles Orkney-Bier, dazu wieder der Traubenspieß mit weißer Schokolade, lang in Würze anhaltend und doch gut balanciert, herausfordernd, Spuren an Torf. Ein spannendes Gerät und guter Fund.

Score: 89+

Glenrothes 20 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1997 – 2017 Sherry Butt 47.9%

Kommentar: Einer der vielen Releases aus dem Jahr 1997 mit tiefen Sherryaromen; diese Drams sind meist großartig, aber gelegentlich etwas schweflig. Nicht zu komplex, aber einfach gut und zu Herzen gehend. Dieses Fass ist ein feiner und absolut typischer Vertreter, wieder harmonisch im Stile von Jens: Schoko-Lebkuchenherz mit Kirschfüllung, Orangeat, fette Rosine (teils verbrannt), Blutorange, fleischig, auch Frische, leichtes Plankenholz, Leder, dazu besonders an diesem Fass: auch Tabak und dezenter Rauch (passt gut dazu). Alles wohl integriert – was er tut, macht er gut. Manchmal müssen es nicht 300 verrückte Aromen sein. Wer feine Sherry-Drams a la Macallan in guter Balance mag, wird hier perfekt bedient.

Score: 90+

Nose: The An Oa stats on  green notes of agave (Mezcal-esque), herbs (fennel, oregano, thyme), green tea (nettles), mint (catnip), anis and lime zest that meet the classic peaty Ardbeg profile. The focus is on tar, resin, a sweet peat-iodine-soot-combo, leather, quite some cocoa, roasted coffee beans, dates, chalk, oak and toffee. It somehow smells more liqueur-like than other Ardbegs, but it is clearly spirit-driven.

Palate: Great balance, classic Ardbeg, but more civilized, streamlined and quaffable. This plays on the lighter and sweeter side of Islay. For a change I am getting mossy green earth, vanilla and apple-hickory-BBQ-smoke that joins the world of Ardbeg. Well-made, this subtle yet ardbeggy dram.

Finish: Medium length and very pleasant, this unifies contrasts of wild and mild, of elegance and intensity. Introduce people to Ardbeg with this one.

Score: 85

Comment: Very typical for its provenance, and so tropical. To me this is an example of the finest Bourbon wood maturation (reminding me of Glen Keith 40, Bruichladdich 1970 or Springbank Local Barley) but the label says “sherry cask” … well, many of these were made from American oak in Jerez, and this has been a refill for sure. Like a Monin syrup of pink grapefruit, grilled pineapple with sugar, apricots, coconut, vanilla (Bavarian Crème), pear in cream and traces of green tea and herbs. The oak is perfectly integrated and not too loud. On the palate it arrives so wonderfully oily and fruit-laden, wow! This is close to perfection and finely balanced. It stays true to itself all the way to the finish, never too dry, medium-long and very ‘moreish’. The slight touch of bitter (herbal whiff) keeps it interesting and sets a nice counterpart to the fruit. Great pick, Dino, thank you for letting me try it.

Score: 92+

Die Geschmacksbeschreibung und die Botanicals sollen an eine Bergwiese im Sommer erinnern (Arnika, Silberdistel, Frauenmantel, Bergkräuter). Als Kind der Alpen kenne ich diese Gerüche … bin gespannt:

Beschreibung: Ohne die guten Notes des Herstellers kopieren zu wollen stimme ich in großen Teilen zu. Ein insgesamt klassischer Dry Gin, jedoch mit viel „Terroir“. Die deutlichsten Aromen sind tatsächlich Bergwiese (warmes Heu, Trockenblumen, Almblüte) und Limette, dazu etwas Bergamotte, Salbei, Pfeffer und Honig. Der Wacholder spielt zurückhaltend im Hintergrund, helle Geruchsfarben prägen das Bild. Am Gaumen ist der Gin eher leicht süßlich und sehr weich, mild-wärmend mit dezenter Würze. Orange Limette, Kamille, Wacholder, Rosmarin, Almwiese, die ganze Heidi in akzeptabler Balance. Den vom Hersteller als mächtig bezeichneten Nachklang ist eher von mittlerer Länge und sehr rund, es klingt warmes Bergheu und Wacholder in feinen Wellen an. Insgesamt gutes Mittelfeld mit Bonuspunkten für Originalität und Regionalität, das Thema ist top umgesetzt. Wer es weich und alpin liebt, ist hier genau richtig. Mir fehlt etwas Druck und Balance am Gaumen, doch das ist immer Geschmackssache. Ein spannendes Produkt ist dieser Eidgenosse auf jeden Fall. Probieren!

Bewertung: 86

Glenrothes 20 y.o. malt mountains 1997 – 2017, sherry cask, 50,3%

Comment: Glenrothes ranks really high among blenders, and rightfully so. I also adore this malt with its bloodorange-tang. Oliver Späth already had a nice Glen Keith, Tobermory and the astonishing Bladnoch in his range, and this bottling is his latest. In this one, the sherry is dominant yet not overpowering, it goes in a balsamic direction altogether. There is more to it than just raisins, as some modern casks are these days. It is kirsch gateau (chocolate cake soaked in cherry schnaps) with hazelnuts and fudge, a dessert dram, earthy like a Glendronach but less dry, also whiffs of orange peel, humidor and cedar wood are to be nosed. On the palate it is very typical, a well-balanced sherry dram with blood orange and forest floor. Overall not overly complex but simply good at what it is and does. Long satisfying finish. Thanks Oliver! Good pick, again. Available here.

Score: 90+

Aultmore 33 y.o. OB ‚Exceptional Cask Series‘ for China Whisky Society 1983 – 2016, sherry cask finish, 678 btl., 53,3%

Comment: Don’t these new Aultmore bottles look beautiful (clear glass, that is), you wanna touch them. A rare one for China, let’s see: Oh my God, this is a monster of complexity: honey and hay meet the sweet side of oak – this what bursts out of the glass at first. Then licorice, honey, butter, sugar-glazed pastry, Werther’s Originals, vanilla and fruits (pink grapefruit, kiwi, plums, grapes) join a solid malty backbone of the classic kind (old style). After a while it reminds me of a walk in an olive garden in summer bloom, also ruccola and hot mulch. It arrives with great nervosity on the palate, quite some action is going on there. Like an aquarel painting all the aromatic dots are there but only hinted at. The interesting acidity is slowly becoming sweetness, everything happens in style and is well-integrated. Waves of tasty stuff return in the finish: sweet malt and pastry again (now with vanilla sauce), honey glace, green tea,  sycamore bark and so much more. Gimme a bottle! Thanks Boris!

Score: 92