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Ob Whiskytram, Rhum-Verkostung in der Havana-Bar, Whiskywalk, Höhlentasting, Schottland-Fahrt, Jubiläums-Verkostung, spirituelles Dinner (Foodpairing 2.0), niveauvoller Junggesellenabschied, Probe zu Weihnachten und Geburtstagen,

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Salzboottour, Movie and Malt oder die klassischen Seminare – viel Wissenswertes und gute Stimmung stehen bei uns im Mittelpunkt. Auf Augenhöhe holen wir die Genießer ab und geben neue Impulse. Dabei helfen uns auch die engsten Kontakte zu diversen Brennereien, die wir mitunter sogar beraten. Gerne senden wir Euch Referenzen.

Für ein paar Eindrücke von slowdrink empfehlen wir unsere Galerie oder folgende Bilder:

papstgesegneter Club

Malt Maniacs

Consequently, this new Ardbeg is of great learning effect. It represents a taste stemming from much longer fermentation due to a broken boiler in November 2007: three weeks instead of 72 hours, the longest in Ardbeg history! I don’t know if the yeast stopped working for a while during the cooldown. The Ardbeg team, led by Dr. Bill Lumsden, opened the washbacks to allow Islay air penetrate more intensively. An experiment was born. Dr. Bill always wanted to find out the effects of longer fermentation and the boiler accident presented itself as the chance to see. Fitting the long fermentation, a longer maturation time was granted (13 years). Ardbeg fans, be excited for this one.

Comment: This is a typical spirit-driven Ardbeg of the good kind, to start out with. The nose is a stunner, very balanced and old-school Ardbeg, sweet peaty joy. I am getting a smouldering forest fire here, loads of pine and beech smoke, soot, resin, tar, sweet BBQ-sauce, sulphur and big iodine (which I love in such drams). Of course, tires, leather, coffee roast, milk chocolate, chalk, aloe, menthol, lemon drop and herbs are there too. Also some food analogies: A burnt steak with black pepper and chili rub comes to my mind somehow. Despite the discrete wood (I guess mostly refill) there is vanilla creme with toffee sauce for dessert, some orange and apple slices on the side. All this is so enticingly sweet, harmonious and well-integrated. I expected way more funk, but this is a fine and pronounced smokiness with deep iodine and phenols.

On the palate, this has the slim and drinkable profile that is so typical of Ardbeg. Mild start on spritely, minty and acidic tones, then it builds itself up towards spice and burning embers. Round again, quaffability is king.

It finishes on depth! Iodine! Peat, tanned leather, old wood, salt, soot and chalk – and this great sweetness again.

Altogether I think the longer fermentation resulted in a profile from older days of Ardbeg in parts. Iodine, a spice-laden maltiness and round integration of all aromas are to mention. I am getting a bottle and drink it with an old friend!

Score: 90

Join the Ardbeg Committee to get your bottle (in Germany, this is 8th February 2022)!

Cognac Jean-Luc Pasquet ‚Organic‘ 2006-2021, Cask 27, Grande Champagne, Kirsch Import, 50,1%

Comment: This is as ’single‘ as it gets! From their own hand-picked organic grapes, this eau de vie was self-distilled on gas, and filled into single casks. I kid you not, it starts out like a Calvados. So many apple aromas (pie, green apple, compote, tart tatin) and vanilla jump out of the glass, then big banana, pears, raisins and butter join in. Sandal wood and oak are also playing a major part. Fresh linen, lime-infused cake glaze and white chocolate complete this unusual but harmonious nose – fresh!

On the palate it arrives sweeter than expected, mainly on baked apples, butter and oriental spice. Round and sound – winey acidity, grapes and yes, Calvados, show up. Very alive!

It finishes on medium-length with spice from exotic woods, fruit (apple, banana, grapes) and vanilla pod. A wild and unusual ride with a fresh experience in the field of Cognac! One to learn a lot from …

Score: 87-88

Cognac Vallein Tercinier ‚Small Batch‘ 41-43 – 2021, Kirsch Import, Bons Bois, 78 btl., 48,2%

Comment: A rare Single Estate and cask strength Cognac gem from WWII. which is now sold by a German importer – how times have changed for the better! That alone is heart-warming. It has spend its life in cask until 2006, then in Dame Jeannes (glass balloons). Let’s nose: ooops, who put the Bowmore 1968 in here? Almost kitsch in terms of fruitiness (passion fruit, guava, papaya, pink grapefruit, apple, lychee, plum, raisins, cherry) and berry aromas (all kinds, cassis etc.), uber-fruity, joined by minerality and the discreetest old wood – almost purely spirit-driven! It also plays fir twigs, moss, humidor, rancio, vanilla, lilacs, violets and so much more – in perfect balance like a finely tuned stereo!

It builds itself up on the palate, from mild to strong, from floral, acidic and wood-spice elements to huge exotic fruits, berries and a nutty rancio aspect with sweets! An amazing development in my mouth! I recommend big sips here – don’t miss this!

The finish should be illegal! All is reunited like on a huge water colour painting in which every now and then another highlight shines out. A piece of art, and not tired at all! Amazing pick with history – get it!

Score: 92

Cognac Grosperrin No. 71 Heritage 1971 – 2021 – for Flickenschild – Petite Champagne, 52,3%

Comment: This was chosen as a Malternative at full proof – a Cognac for whisky drinkers that Guilhem Grosperrin inherited somehow (it was originally sold for two NGOs) and took care of it. Now it was bottled exclusively for Flickenschild / whizita.de. The story is on the bottle to read up on. Let’s taste it:

The oak is playing a role after 50 years, but it is well in check – malt heads will enjoy this (vanilla, pepper). Floral elements (lilac, lavender, violets, roses, mint, lemon verbena, flowerpot) meet glazed lemon cake (Amerikaner), white chocolate, cinnamon and nutmeg. Beeswax, tobacco… more and more aromas emerge, it needs time to unfold. Then nutty rancio joins in and many (dried) fruits like apricots, lemons, limes, orange skin, wild strawberries, mirabelles, lychees and gooseberries. Complex and balanced, the alcohol is well-integrated.

On the palate sweet and sour elements battle like in a familiar westernized Chinese duck recipe. All in all, it is darker now. Raisins, figs, dried apricots, nuts, lemony tastes and waxy maturity make their presence felt.

The finish takes you on a journey through all the stages from before, very exciting and long.

Score: 89

Jean-Luc Pasquet Cognac Lot 68 – 72 Kirsch Import Limited Edition, 1968…1972 – 2021, Fins Bois, 59,1%

Comment: This multi-vintage assemblage (1968 – 1972) from the Fins Bois was Sebastian’s first pick in his role as grape ambassador for Kirsch Import. And these crus really combine into a super power. A dream of a Cognac, which wasn’t to be expected from its sheer stats – such stuff usually vanishes in the blends of big houses. With this example you can discover how great this alternative way can be, I am so glad it was bottled this way – read why:

Enticingly sweet, nutty and leathery start, a tightly-knit and balanced potpourri of darker elegance. A fist inside a velvet glove. Juicy, balsamic complexity, quite some rancio, soaked spice cake, cherries, dates, maracuja, kiwi, cristallized orange, marzipan, macadamia, nutty pastry (Nusshörnchen), chocolate, vanilla, juniper berries, tobacco, humidor. Crazy!

It tastes as good as it noses, more berries like cassis chime in into the complex mix, even black truffles can be found. And it swims well, try water too, just amazing. This is truly a legendary cognac.

The crescendo leaves you crying for more of this awesome grape juice. Amazing pick! With each tasting session you love it more as it has a drinkability despite its power. Don’t buy, leave more for me !

Score: 92

Before I differenciate, both have the Caroni funk and typical traits for these years:

Common notes of both: Jungle undergrowth, banana skin, camphor, ointment (Ichthyol), iodine, resin, sanitary napkin, tar, scented tobacco, fresh mint, rose stems and vanilla – all in all a heavy load, almost overburdening the palate. Let’s go from crazy to nuts:

CARONI 1998 – 2021 Single Cask Trinidad Rum, Cask #2109, 226 btl., 62,2%

Comment: This is the rounder and fruitier one with berries, more accessible and not as dry as its partner – aetherial clouds of aromas somehow. Along the notes above I am getting a deep and spicy impression, huge complexity. Berries, dragonfruit, babana, plum, orange zest, rum-raisin ice cream (Malaga), leather, bitumen, jute sack filled with coffee beans, cinnamon chewing gum, ski waxing workshop, glue, cedar wood, forest floor, mulled Christmas wine (nutmeg, clover, cinnamon, ginger, red wine, etc.), daisies, poppy seed pastry with sugar icing (‚Mohnschnecke‘), new car oil and what not – a crazy ride. It is intense yet balanced, spicy and fruity on the palate, water straightens it out and pushes the berries and tropical fruit center stage, but it can be enjoyed pure as well. The finish is long and soothing. However, we are talking heavy duty here over all.

Score: 91+

CARONI 1997 – 2021 Single Cask Trinidad Rum, Cask #59, 224 btl., 60,6%

Comment: This is the spicier, drier and dirtier one, it bites like a jungle viper – no prisoners taken. Tar, licorice, old oil, resin, olive tapenade, hot mulch from jungle wood, rotten banana skin, nutmeg, pepper, chili, burnt caramel, cocoa, juniper berries, painted pine cone and quite some wood influence. A Voodoo Monster that will split the audience. The palate is a full-on attack, peppery spices and woody dryness bite with adstringency, then relief, wow, dryness gone suddenly. Banana, oak and undergrowth are dominant. I recommend water for this one, as it levels out the aggression and allows the subtle berries and fruit to be discovered – but it also depends on your daily shape. On some days, pure is fine – a great one either way. Somewhat brutal but complex, and therefore, very entertaining. Muscle rum, looong finish!

Score 90

So choose which style you prefer – or get both. Stellar rum that won’t become cheaper and gets rarer by the day. WU!

Nose: Very round, holding back at first – not a loud and aggressive one, finesse is the key. It reminds me of long-gone expressions, which is a good thing: no green notes or aloe vera. Absolutely well-matured, but not in your face. Classic Ardbeg. The sherry had a nice polishing effect without causing a loss the spirit-driven character too much (not a modern make-up). Aside from the softened peat-sulphur-iodine combo I am getting campfire, chocolate cake and coffee immediately, then suede and leather shoes, mustard seed, pepper, chili, Nicaragua tobacco leaf, dates and sultanas, lime zest and the typical aromas associated with Ardbeg. The heat of peppery notes renders a nice counterpart to the sweetness without standing out too much.

Palate: Velvety and smoother than your average Kildalton dram. Softly it coats your mouth for a while, then a peppery bite, brine near the sea, cocoa, really stylish. But you need to take big sips to fully grasp the experience. Lovers of powerful drams might be disappointed a bit, but if you are into harmony without any offnote, this is your choice. I dig this style. Having worked with several Ardbegs in sherry casks myself, I found the effect the very same: raw power turns into mature sweet complexity in the mouth but Islay is still enough there. It is not a weakling. The drinkability is off the chart, but a lower abv might hurt it. We’ll see at what strength the regular version will be bottled.

Finish: Darn good, really seductive, leaving you wishing for more. Flints, soot, sweet peat (does that exist?), iodine, embers, growing bigger by the minute. Kudos, a nice addition to the core range. Chimney sweeper’s delight!

Score: 90

Ein buntes Panel trat an

(aber nicht immer) mit einer vogelwilden Marketing-Geschichte vertrieben wird… und eine Spirituose, an der viele Brenner nicht mehr vorbeikommen. So vielfältig wie die Stories der Vermarkter sind auch die Gins. Von tief, gelungen und geheimnisvoll komplex bis hin zu flach und seltsam reicht die Tragweite, trocken bis süß, so wie die Aufmachungen der Flaschen. Genossen als purer ’sipping Gin‘ oder als Tonic-Partner, im Cocktail, etc. (wo sie völlig unterschiedlich abschneiden), das Feld ist weit. London Dry, Bavarian Dry, compound, distilled, aged, mit zahllosen Botanicals (auch hier ist sehr viel Spielraum, die Ansetzung, biologischer Anbau, die Anzahl, …), der Fantasie sind keine Grenzen gesetzt, doch gerade das macht Gin interessant, aber auch schwer vergleichbar in seiner weiten Kategorie. Wie beim Würzen in der Küche ist Vieles Geschmacksache, solange das Grundprodukt stimmt – das aus diversen Getreiden oder Kartoffeln bestehen kann. Also wie vergleichen? Wir entschieden uns für einheimische distilled Gins ohne Fassreife.

Ein paar Gins der Verkostung

Wir – das war ein Panel aus drei Brennern (Stefan Penninger, Gregor Schraml und Johannes Anleitner), zwei Bloggern/Verkostern (Initiator Philip Reim und meine Wenigkeit), Barleuten, Händlern und Endverbrauchern. Da wir alle aus verschiedenen Blickwinkeln auf das Produkt schauen, war die Diskussion im Vorfeld höchst anregend und auf hohem Niveau. Das Feld wurde hinreichend geklärt und für Wohlgefühl sorgte unser Gastgeber Goose in der Wunderbar (Regensburg).

Die Gins wurden pur und in Ruhe verkostet und gelegentlich auch als Tonic oder Cocktail ausprobiert. Unglaublich waren die Unterscheide in dieser schon von uns auf einheimische distilled Gins eingegrenzte Kategorie. Auch die Geschichten um die Marken reichten von sympathisch nüchtern über historisch interessant (Schramls ‚Kaiser Hill 16‘ und Penningers ‚Granit Gin‘ und die Info vom ständigen Diebstahl des beigefügten Granit-Kühlsteins in Märkten) bis hin zu völligem Marketing-Bullshit (I Dream of Gini), der nur nach einer oder zwei Flaschen Genuss des eigenen Produktes entstanden sein konnte.

„Botanicals“ für Gin

Im Geschmack taten sich ebenfalls große Unterschiede auf- So schmeckte ein Gin so künstlich nach destilliertem Maoam und Gummibaum, ein anderer gab sogar Räucherfisch-Aromen von sich, wieder ein anderer zeigte klare Obstlernoten – doch das waren eher negative Ausreißer. Der Großteil bestand aus anständigen und gelungenen, ja auch originellen Produkten, die ihren berechtigten Platz im Markt haben. Mehr dazu, v.a. zu Schraml und Penninger folgt in einem eigenen Artikel. Denn diese beiden Brenner aus Ostbayern, bei denen die Ginproduktion bzw. zumindest die Benutzung von Botanicals seit ewigen Zeiten Tradition hat und nicht nur ein Aufspringen auf den Ginzug darstellt, fielen uns neben dem Horsetown Gin positiv auf – vielleicht auch, weil die Produzenten vor ort waren. Doch diese Regionalität, und Abgeklärtheit spiegelte sich in den Produkten, und während der Verkostung hielt uns nichts von neutraler Betrachtung ab. Interessanterweise waren wir uns größtenteils einig.

Meine persönliche Reihenfolge möchte ich Euch nicht vorenthalten (bei ein paar Gins nenne ich Auszüge meiner Tasting Notes, die ich alle irgendwann in Gänze poste):

1. Horsetown Gin (Achtung: Batches variieren wegen Wechsel in Inhaltsstoffen und Produktionsarten) – toller Gin mit einem Hauch Beeren (Preiselbeeren), wenig Wacholder, dafür Zwetschgen, Marille, Orangenschale, Kamille, Fruchtbonbon, Majoran, fett und und ungefiltet, breit in Basis, weniger Kopfnoten, eigen. 84 Punkte.

und

1. Windspiel Gin – trotz einer etwas eigenwilligen Marketinggeschichte ist dies ein richtig toller Gin, ein kräftiger Macho mit 47%, was nicht jeder mochte. Schöne Nase mit Wacholder, schwarzem Pfeffer, Zitrone, Tajine-Gerichte (Gewürzvielfalt) etc., der alkoholisch-säurelastige Antritt liefert kräftig ab, und auch Schokoladennoten sind nun dabei. 84 Punkte.

3. Granit Gin (Penninger) – mild und doch aromatisch, klassisch angelegt, ein Hauch Gurke, Wurzeln, florale Töne, Zitronenabrieb, bunter Pfeffer, Gerbleder und Muskatnuss. Rundum angenehm. 83 Punkte, ebenso feel! Gin und The Duke Gin.

6. Kaiser Hill 16 (Schraml – sehr klassisch und einfach gut) und Ferdinand’s Gin (Saar, traubig-weiblich, angenehm anders) – 81 Punkte.

8. Monkey 47 Gin – 80 Punkte.

9. Bavarka Gin (mild, eigen, hopfig-harzig, Fichtenspitzen, Steckerlfisch, Zitrone, bayerisches Volksfest) und Simon Gin (untypisch, eher Obstler, aber doch gut)

10. Gin Sul (es fehlt zwar an Tiefe, doch er hat was: mild, weiblich, Orange und Bergamote, Sandelholz, Rosmarin, Vanille, etwas Zucker; er erinnert in Momenten an das Parfum ‚Fahrenheit‘ von Dior – noch solide)

11. Lyonel Gin, Secret Treasures (letzterer außer Konkurrenz, beide akzeptabel)

12. Elephant Gin (etwas alkoholisch und undefiniert, es fehlt an Balance, sehr floral-parfümiert, Säure weißer Pfeffer, Zitrone – mit leichten Schwächen noch akzeptabel)

13. I Dream of Gini – pur sehr seltsam und abgeschlagen, aber witzig als Tonic

Overall, one can say that the quality has risen and became more consistent. Moreover, there are some definitive highlights in the series which I recommend (and partly bought for myself). Our friend Lorenz Schreier, the man behind the project, can be proud of his new ‚babies‘ which sell really reasonably (check their website).

Let’s start with the Bourbon-cask bomb Glen Keith 21 y.o from 1992 (Barrel 120610, 49,5%) – a typical vanilla-laden, creme brulee whisky that also renders oily fruitiness, butter, marzipan and caramel, mouthfilling and big. Great whisky in every way: 90 points.

My second favourite is the 17 y.o. Miltonduff from 1995 (Cask 2802, 58,1%) – a fruity and elegant Speysider on plums, peardrops and flowers with impeccable balance. It drinks like an ‚Apfelstrudel‘ and remains classy all the way. A real steal at 65 Euro. 89 points.

Two more really good ones need to be mentioned: The 18 y.o. Braeval from 1994 (55,3%) is smooth as a velvet glove and a great mature allrounder (yellow plums, raspberries, apples, leather and herbs. 89 points. On par with this one I find the sherry cask version of a 17 y.o. Glentauchers from 1996 (57,2%) – being a bit rum-like from the sherry elements, it is complex and nutty (almonds) with dark and bright fruits, vanilla, resin, discrete wood and so much more,  all well balanced (no water necessary). 89 points. All these are great drams well below 100.- Euro.

The other bottlings scored like this (find notes on the Tasting Fellows page):

– Glenburgie 21 y.o. (1992): 87 points

– Mortlach 17 y.o. (1996): 87 points

– both Fettercairn 15 y.o. (1997): 86 points

– Macduff 15 y.o. (1997): 82 points

To sum it up, there wasn’t a bad one in the bunch and many are really convincing. Great picks in difficult times: Kudos Lorenz.

My Tasting Fellows Bottlings

Littlemill 24 y.o. The First Editions 1988, 55,8%

Comment: Another good one from Littlemill, these are very consistent. As usual, we have the herbs (thyme, rosemary), grass, dried flowers, lemon and vanilla in the front seat. Then we get peaches, bergamotte, apple and quince. A typical Littlemill with a spicy edge.

Score: 89

Strathmill 21 y.o. The First Editions 1991, 57,3%

Comment: A highland-like Speysider. Spicy oak, hazel wood, licorice, bitter elements, yellow apple, macadamia nuts, pistachio, honey and pepper.

Score: 85

Allt A’Bhainne 18 y.o. The First Editions 1994, 54,5%

Comment: Ginger, lemon, aromatic smoke, quite some oak and vanilla, quince and peach liqueur.

Score: 87

Teaninich 24 y.o. The First Editions 1993, Sherry Cask, 58,1%

Comment: This is your typical well-matured whisky with some spice elements that bring freshness. The sherry cask rendered raisiny and sweet aromas that are well integrated. I am also getting apple pits. Well balanced overall.

Score: 87+

Longmorn 27 y.o. The First Editions 1985, 51%

Comment: This one is my favourite of this series. Bright and cristalline fruitiness like a Riesling Auslese, lime blossom, cassis, apricots, you name it. Reminiscenses of old Glenglassaugh or Tomatin whiskies come to mind. Just fab.

Score: 91

Blair Athol 20 y.o. The First Editions 1993, Sherry Cask, 57,8%

Comment: A very unusual dram, I must say. Italian bitter (Aperol), chocolate, dark wood and spice, green elements (kitchen herbs), sherry and what not. It gains quality on the palate.

Score: 89

Miltonduff 30 y.o. The First Editions 1982, 48,3%

Comment: Fruit basket meets pickle glass water (mustard seed, pickles, dill and herbs), soft smoke, leather, honey, vanilla and a medium dose of oak infusion.

Score: 89

Mortlach 24 y.o. The First Editions 1989, 57,9%

Comment: Burnt steak, black pepper, porridge, acidity, sulphur, white balsamico, kitchen smoke – a unique dram that delivers on the palate.

Score: 88

Highland Park 17 y.o. The First Editions 1995, 53,9%

Comment: A peaty one but still gentle and immensely complex and coastal, I love it. It shows its allrounder qualities.

Score: 90

Jura 18 y.o. The First Editions 1995, 52,8%

Comment: Nicely farmyardy, coffee, canned milk and leather, The sweeter elemensts are doughnuts, Nutella, vanilla cream, gingerbread and pistachio. It might not be overly complex but tastes just right und quite unique too, as a Single Malt should.

Score: 90

Now, everything is back on track, so let’s  tackle the fine Portsoy whisky finished in Crimean sweet wine casks in a head to head. They spent most of their time in refill casks before, then about 18 months of finishing was conducted.

Glenglassaugh 45 y.o. Massandra Collection 1967 Red Port Style Finish, 50,2%

This oldest version reveals the same style like the other 1960ies distillates, which is more than a good thing. It is by far the deepest, most balanced and noble expression of the pack with a medium influence of the cask (18 months) on rather dark wood. At the core of this complexity I am getting  dark fruits (cherry, plum, cake soaked with Port, rum raisins), dried fruit, cotton candy sweetness and Asian spices (incl. sandalwood) paired with white and black pepper – all in this subtle and deep manner, really amazing and flawless. 92+ points.

Glenglassaugh 39 y.o. Massandra Collection 1972 Sherry Style Finish, 53,3%

The cask influence on this whisky is rather discrete. However this fruity and slightly dry Glassa is a banana bomb. Really, I have never tasted a whisky more Chiquita than this one (not even old Tomintoul), it reminds me of the Arcane rum somehow or even resembles a banana milk shake in taste. And these notes grow bigger with time. Before embarking on the banana boat there was lemon zest, apple and pear (in a dextrose-like crystalline way), ginger, white pepper, lavender and jasmine. What a fun dram, yet not my favourite 1972 Glenglassaugh. 90 points.

Glenglassaugh 39 y.o. Massandra Collection 1973 Aleatico Finish, 50,7%

This is the most expressive and unusual one in the bunch, rather spicy (chili, black pepper)with dry tannins. It comes across winey, also a bit like a Spanish Brandy. Does this come from the sweet wine made from formerly Italian grapes? There are aromas of coffee, canned milk, beef jerky, nougat crème, dark fruits (raisins, cherries, dried apricots), toffee and woody notes (resin, tannin). The Aleatico is hard to judge because it is so full of life yet not as round as other old Glassas. The spices prevent the subtle dextrose-like fruitiness to unfold. Some might love it, some will find it okayish and interesting. Let’s settle at 89+ points, some might go higher here.

Glenglassaugh 39 y.o. Massandra Collection 1973 Muscat Finish, 44,1%

I expected the least of this one because I am not a fan of the wine not this way of finishing. And at my first whiff I felt reassured: there were rosewater, petals, litschi, all quite unusual for this distillery. But there was more and I saw that I judged too quickly: the flowery notes from the wine finish went away after a minute and gave room for the most stunning ‘1960ies-Bowmore-esque’ profile I had in quite a while: cassis fruitiness, berries, wine gum, herbs of the Provence, forest walk (leafs, pine needles, etc.), lemon skin, pears, candy floss, canned milk, rising dough, caramel and vanilla, all discrete and in perfect balance. What an elegant surprise! 92 points.

Glenglassaugh 33 y.o. Massandra Collection 1978 Madeira Style Finish, 44,8%

The last one also doesn’t disappoint but has a greener and more malty profile with less fruit than its predecessors. Its aromas are based on dry and peppery elements, nettles, chili, ginger, smoke from burning pine needles and raisins. 89 points.

Summary: In a nutshell, this collection is great for Glenglassaugh connoisseurs who want to experience different vintages and the wood influence on their dram. None of these whiskies is a let-down, but I clearly favour the noble 1967 Port version followed by the quaffable 1973 Muscat finish with its fruity tail. The Aleatico is for cowboys who like their dram wild and spicy, rum lovers will enjoy the 1972 Sherry most and the Speyside purists go for the Madeira from 1978. However, if you are new to vintage Glenglassaugh prior to the 1980ies, I recommend going for the recent 1972 releases (like the one from winter 2012/13 released for Germany which scored 93 points in my books) because they are more typical. Thanks to Andrea Caminneci for providing me with these nectars.

Tamdhu 25 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1988 – 2013, Bourbon Hogshead, 50,7%

„Kirschschnapps with cereals“ I’d call it. This dram reveals a nice cherry aroma on a solid malty core, also dried flowers, hay straws, scorched earth, gentian, ginger, chili, lemon zest and peach liqueur. There is a good balance between the Bourbon wood and the fruit. Enjoyable! 88 points.

Auchroisk 22 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1990 – 2013, Sherry Cask, 49,8%

„A bright version of a Christmas Cake“ is my reference here. Ruben said he didn’t get this dram completely. Let’s try it for ourselves: There is a well-integrated sweetness of sherry-related aromas just like in a soaked chocolate cake (with Port and Sherry) plus the dried fruits like raisins, dates, figs, cherries etc. I like the blood orange and cinnamon in the second row. It tastes not too dry for a sherry-matured dram with earthy and peaty undertones (discrete though) and wonderful Asian spices in the finish. Good stuff for under the tree! 89 points.

Glen Keith 20 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1992 – 2013, Bourbon Barrel, 51,8%

Can this one follow its 90-point predecessor from 2012 (Duck series)? Yes it can, it is a fat and oily woodworm on vanilla, coconut and loads of Bourbon character (Willett?). Baileys Irish Whiskey Creme and creme brulee, almonds, macadamia, pineapple, peaches and other tropical fruits chime in. But you have to like oak. The fruit oils and coconut taste plus so much more are amazing on the palate. As mentioned before, I love how Glen Keith translates the Bourbon character into the Scotch realm, they must have had great casks back then which fitted the dram perfectly. 90 points.

Bunnahabhain 22 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1990 – 2013, Sherry Cask, 52,0%

„Aldi chocolate-gingerbread hearts with cherry-filling“ – another one for under the tree. It starts off on leather, sherry and raisins. The sherry aromas are big, a touch too much for my personal taste as it bulldozes the salty and maritime distillery character a bit. Maraschino cherry, cardamom, white pepper, dates and figs stand in second row, but this dram is not overly complex altogether, a bit plump. Not bad though. 86 points.

Clynelish 16 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1996 – 2013, Sherry Cask, 53,3%

A leafy and leathery (tannic) Clynelish with medium-strength sherry influence, not very typical at first, but then getting more ’normal‘ on beeswax, Atlantic depression and apples. I am also getting sea air, soy sauce, peaches, pears, spices, caramel and gentle smoke in fine balance. 88+ points.

Bowmore 18 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1995 – 2013, Sherry Cask, 54,9%

„Beachfront BBQ with high class seafood at the Mediterranean sea“ – these words characterize the dram best. This amazing Bowmore displays aromas of grilled crayfish (langostin), lobster butter, oysters, green herbs, freshly cut cactus, cabbage (cole slaw) by the sea, pine needles, leather, cedar wood, peat smoke, childrens steam train, struck matches, English gunpowder tea and quite some soot. The sherry notes are maybe not too integrated but ride on top beautifully (morello cherry) and match the profile that is rounded off by smells of a walk in the woods close to the sea. What a great dram with impeccable balance and adventurous spirit! This could the best cask out of the series. 91+ points.

Speyside Region (probably Glenfarclas) 17 y.o., Archives ‚The Fishes of Samoa‘ 1995 – 2012, Butt #56, 54 btl., 48,2%

Very regional Speyside indeed, a malty and flowery profile out of a Bourbon cask. Some nuts, vanilla, honeycomb, aniseed and dried fruits in the second row, later becoming more tropical (mango, pineapple), beachy (I know, this word doesn’t exist, but it works for me here) and milky. Very well-balanced and classic, quite a quaffer. A little water doesn’t change a lot, but more H2O creates a soft dram with even more complexity and ferns like a Bowmore occassionally: amazing, try it. 89 points.

Tormore 29 y.o. Archives ‚The Fishes of Samoa‘ 1984 – 2013, Barrel 3669, 90 btl., 51,0%

Big exotic fruitiness (all kinds, mostly oranges, pink grapefruits, pineapple, Guava, Bergamot), vanilla, pepper, canned milk, dried moss, a trace of ginger, Blue Mountain coffee, lilac and white oak – all that seemingly older, quite bold. The palate is much oakier than expected, with spice, chili, ginger and fruit in a fight, like a hot Caribbean dish. Water improves the balance and pushes the dram closer to its outstanding olfactory profile. 87+ points.

Bunnahabhain 40 y.o. Archives ‚The Fishes of Samoa’1973 – 2013, Butt 3463, 156 btl., 50,6%

Banana-Rum (Arcane)! Huge sweetness, vanilla, citrus fruit attack, passion fruit, yellow X-mas candles, flower honey, discrete oak and salt, really high class. On the palate, the banana is still huge and the immense fruit oils are accompanied by some linseed and soap (puts me off a bit). Almost no aok after 40 years. This one is a stunner – only the soapy touch is not for me, others might not even taste it, so my score might be too low – it could have been a 92 without it. 89+ points.

Don’t mess with me!

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– Caol Ila 30 y.o. Archives 1982

– Bowmore 1995 Cooper’s Choice

– Bowmore 11 y.o. Maltbarn 2011 Sherry

– Bowmore 1996 SSMC

– Linkwood 28 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1984

– Glenlivet (Minmore) 35 y.o. Cadenhead 1976 Sherry

– Deanston over thirty y.o. Agency (2nd release)

– Glenrothes 22 y.o. Maltbarn 1990 Sherry

– Jura 1976 Berry Bros.

– Linlithgow 30 y.o. Cadenhead

– Glenglassaugh Aleatico Finish (Massandra Collection)

– Thompson’s 30 y.o. Fine Bordeaux Brandy (!!!)

– Millonario XO Rum (Peru)

– Rum Nation Panama 21 y.o.

– Pitaud and Monnet Cognac Range

– Tobermory 17 y.o. (1995) and Glen Moray 1990 for Single Cask Collection

– Glenmorangie EALANTA

– Coillmor peated Oloroso Sherry Cask

Zielgruppe: Einsteiger und Fortgeschrittene gleichermaßen (sehr gute Tropfen, für jeden etwas dabei)

Zeit/Ort: Freitag, 1. Februar 2013 um 20:00 Uhr in der Kochschule in der Markthalle Regensburg (D.-Martin-Luther-Str. 2 beim Dachauplatz unterm Parkhaus)

Moderation: Pit Krause (Malt Maniacs, slowdrink.de)

Beschreibung: An diesem Abend möchte ich Euch in die faszinierende Welt des Whisk(e)y entführen und ganz verschiedene Spielarten dieses komplexesten Drinks der Welt servieren – Vielseitigkeit ist hier Trumpf. Wir erkunden verschiedene Fassreifungen, Altersstufen, Ausgangsstoffe, Herstellungsweisen, Abfüller und Regionen anhand von elf (!) gelungenen Abfüllungen. Der Spaß und der Genuss werden dabei keinesfalls zu kurz kommen. Wie immer non-profit und kompromisslos in Sachen Qualität!

Line-up:

1. Bushmills 10 years old Irish Single Malt (Welcome Dram)
2. Glenlivet 12 years old Scotch Single Malt (Speyside)
3. Auchentoshan 21 years old from 1974/75 (gesuchte teure Rarität, Lowland Single Malt)
4. Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky (in Regensburg selber nachgereift, ca. 6 years old)
5. Glenlivet ‚Nadurra‘ 16 years old Single Malt (fassstark, Small Batch-Abfüllung aus first-fill Casks)
6. Glenmorangie Quinta Ruban, Single Highland Malt (ca. 14 y.o., Port-Nachreifung)
7. Glenfarclas 4. Oct. 1989 – 26. August 2002 Premium Edition (first-fill Oloroso Sherry Cask, Speyside)
8. Surprise Premium Dram (welche Region/Fassreifung und welches Alter liegt wohl vor?)
9. Clynelish 14 y.o. Single Cask Collection (14.07.1997 – 13.02.2012) Refill Sherry Hogshead, 56,8% (vielfacher Tastingsieger, Single Cask Highland Malt)
10. Bowmore 11 y.o. Old Train Line (April 1997 – Jan. 2008), European Oak Cask No. 4731, 53,9% (Single Islay Malt, gesuchte Rarität)
11. Ardbeg 11 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society 33.78 (May 1998 – 2009) ‚Leaves little flickering fires‘, first-fill Bourbon Barrel, 55,4%(rar und gesucht, der definitive For-the-Road-Dram!)

Kosten: 55.- Euro (oder gratis mit Gutschein, bitte aber in jedem Fall anmelden)

Anmeldung: info@slowdrink.de (per e-mail) – seid schnell, die Plätze gehen immer sehr zügig weg! Dennoch die notwendige Information, dass bei weniger als 16 Teilnehmern die Veranstaltung verschoben wird (kam noch nie vor).

The Tasting with a little more Rock n‘ Roll

Bladnoch 21 y.o. The Whiskyman & The Bonding Dram 1991 – 2012, Bourbon barrel, 118 btl., 52,9%

Comment: Vanilla and white peach lead the way, pretty expressive right from the start with some freshly cut grass  and lemon zest lurking in the background plus the white oak being there in medium intensity. I also get white pepper and spinach. Well balanced in the nose and on the palate, which displays a typical Bourbon wood-maturation profile with loads of toffee, peaches, pear drops and vanilla again, all that rather unrestrained. Water sends the dram in a bitter and greener direction, I prefer it straight. The finish is oakier than expected but clearly within limits. A fun Lowlander, no doubt (and thanks, Jeroen).

Score: 87

Springbank 17 y.o. The Maltman (Meadowside Blending), Sherry cask, 46%

Comment: Unusual first whiffs that remind me of a pile of wood in the forest on a summer day. Pine needles, fir trees, and really dark chocolate, strange but in a good and different way. Cured ham, salt and mustard seed join the winey traces of the sherry cask in this dram. This one really needs time to unfold: after 10 minutes, I can detect peaches, maritime freshness and some spices but all that behind the forest motif. Does the walk in the woods continue on the palate? Yes and no, this is quite earthy (a slight peatiness surpised me) and noble on dark mahogani wood notes, mushrooms, excellent sherry, Culatello ham and discrete hints of various fruits in the background, really old-fashioned and lovely! The finish is long and shows the same balance and aromas mentioned but adds burnt wood. This is not your common dram, it brings back memories of a trip to the woods with your grandfather, probably a real gentleman of his time. Not for everyone, but for those who love to explore whisky variation. It grows on you, great pick!

Score: 89+

Ardbeg 12 y.o. SMWS 33.114 (Scotch Malt Whisky Society – Sweet versus Savoury) 1999 – 2011, refill sherry butt, 630 btl., 56,3%

Comment: A very spicy start with quite some eucalypt/agave/menthol aromas going on alongside the peat, brine, roots, herbs and some chalky oak. In second row I find the more typical notes of cocoa dust, tire store, Arabica beans and very discrete sherry. The taste is more typical of a classic Ardbeg than the nose would suggest, simply good. No water needed, but it swims well. Great iodine and matchstick sulphur in the very long finish. Daddy like !

Score: 88

Port Charlotte 9 y.o. SMWS 127.18 (Scotch Malt Whisky Society) 2002 – 2012, refill Bourbon barrel, 66,1%

Comment: Rhum agricole with peat, what a start! Like a lovely flower bouquet handed to you inside a peat-smoked kiln. Without water it plays it close to the chest. Menthol, camomile, iodine, charcoal, that’s about it in the nose and on the palate. Let’s add water: It unfolds now on smoke, barley sugar, roots, heather, apple skin, salt, sea spray, nettles, resin, chalk and oak. A wild ride around the ash tray altogether, I’d say. The whisky seems younger than other PCs from that era somehow.

Score: 87

Laphroaig 10 y.o. SMWS 29.108 (Scotch Malt Whisky Society – An Angel in a Sauna wearing Wellies) 2001 – 2011, refill Bourbon Hogshead, 28z btl., 56,8%

Comment: Although the angel and the sauna part in the titleof this bottling is bull – I can really smell the wellies (accompanied by peat and green stuff like herbs and celp). A great Laphroaig with loads of personality. Nothing fancy, just a great Southcoast Islay dram that needs no explanation. An ideal ‚for-the-road‘ whisky at the end of your tasting session that puts a smile on everybody’s face and guides them home with the warmth of a peat fire. No water necessary. Kudos!

Score: 90

Laphroaig 17 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Fights‘ 1995 – 2012, Bourbon barrel, 253 btl., 53,9%

The Whisky Agency's new series 'Fights'

Comment: Wonderful start with a great integration of all Laphroaigs elements. I am getting vanilla, white oak, herbs, nettles, peat, brine, iodine, rusty fish trawler smells, ropes, pepper, old Golden Delicious apples, softly boiled potatoes with butter on top, lemon dash and grapefruit. Wow! On the palate it delivers as well, I adore how it is wild and mild at the same time. My beloved flintstone and matchstick sulphur shows up in the long peaty finish with chalky oak and some vanilla traces. No water necessary, but it can swim. Kudos, I really like this dram (having a weak spot for Laphroaig anyway).

Score: 90

Pit Krause kredenzt dazu die passenden Drinks, angefangen von edlen Single Malts über feine Weine bis hin zum Spitzen-Olivenöl und einem alten Portwein. Auch ein kleines Single Malt Whisky-Tasting darf dabei nicht fehlen.

Dazu malträtieren wir gemeinsam noch einen Jamon am Schinkenbock und verrichten Heldentaten an Herd und Glas – das dürft Ihr nicht verpassen! Mädels, ‚entsorgt‘ Eure Männer bei uns … und Jungs, beweist Euren guten Geschmack!

! Klickt hier für weitere Informationen und die Anmeldung !

Littlemill 20 y.o. Liquid Library (The Whisky Agency) 1992 – 2012 Bourbon Hogshead, 313 btl., 51,6%

Comment: Nice one again, aahhh, wonderful freshness and amazing complexity! I am getting green grass, spinach, pine needle, vanilla, fudge toffee, sweet malt, thyme and rosemary, cinnamon, cilantro, cardamom, pepper, ginger ale, smoke, wet earth, nutty elements, pineapple, maraschino cherries and plums. It tastes very fruity and vanilla-toffee-like, berries, malt, spice and grass join in. The finish brings back all aromas of the nose in soft waves. Kudos, one of the best Bourbon cask Littlemill from those years up to date, i.m.h.o.!

Score: 90

Littlemill 22 y.o. Malts of Scotland MoS 28.03.1989 – 05.2011, sherry butt 2511, 325 btl., 52,8%

Comment: Smokier, slightly darker, sherried and spicier than its predecessor. Surprisingly rummy as well but overall the same fresh profile (rosemary, thyme, pine needle, maraschino sherry, pineapple, plums, cinnamon, cardamom, smoke). The taste is on the herbal side and displays a dark woodiness of the fine kind – there must have been great sherry casks used at Littlemill back in the late 1980ies. The depth of the finish is breathtaking. High quality!

Score: 91

Littlemill 23 y.o. TheWhiskyCask 1988 – 2012, first-fill sherry butt, 54,9%

Comment: Way darker stuff! It possesses beautiful aromas of old sherry casks in this noble style – like early 1970 Bowmore wood, I daresay, clearly there but unobtrusive. This one adds cigar and humidor notes to the earthy smokiness, very close to the excellent 1989 sherry cask releases by Archives and Whisky-Fässle (check their tasting notes here on the page by following the link above). Great balance, too, amazing! The taste has dry moments and the other features of such casks while bringing the usual qualities to the table as well, just a darker style that dampens the profile a bit overall.

Score: 90+

Bonus:

Littlemill 22 y.o. Liquid Library (The Whisky Agency) 1989 – 2011, sherry wood, 221 btl., 48,3%

Comment: A bit thinner and more fragile than the bottlings before but a great Littlemill nonetheless. Like the smoother and softer brother of the MoS release.

Score: 89

No words make sense here: R.I.P. Tommy

Ardbeg 5 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 33.112 ‚Powerful, elegant and atmospheric‘ 20.12.2005 – 2011, 2nd-fill sherry butt, 252 btl., 60,8%

Comment: It doesn’t smell that young, quite a surpise. A rather typical Ardbeg on the mineral, green and farmyardy side again with nice citrus and Granny Smith apple notes. The peat, resin, smoke, burnt tires on hot tar, sulphur, iodine, discrete chalky oak from those refilled sherry casks (that go perfect with Ardbeg i.m.h.o.), mustard seed, chocolate, spinach and jet fuel aromas have some acidity to them. I am also getting sandy pebbles on the beach. Rather complex for such a youngster, not at all an alcohol-driven nose. The palate is a powerhouse, really punchy without being spicy or unpolished, no offnote here! What an Ardbeg! A monster without being rough. Long finish with big iodine, tires and soot! I used to say that Ardbeg takes some time to unfold, but this dram seems to be an exception. Impressive and very South Coast Islay. Water is not necessary but makes it more accessible to some fainter hearted natures.

Score: 90+

Ardbeg 11 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 33.115 ‚Man, that’s braw!‘ 31.08.1999 – 09.2011, refill sherry butt, 578 btl., 55,4%

Comment: This is less powerful and dryer than the 5 y.o. contender because the refill sherry cask has done a good  ‚rounding-off the edges-job‘ without being very obvious or sweet (unobtrusive in background) – a rather inactive cask like the one above has been used, but over 100% more time of ageing took place. There are nice white pepper and chili notes, eucalypt, nettles, pu-erh tea, plums, prunes, apples, peat, chalky oak, iodine, aromatic smoke and sulphur. Asian spices and chocolate join in on the palate with sherry traces and green tea – later plums and the peat-sulphur-iodine-combo. If the 112 is the mineral and fresh Riesling from Rheinhessen, this one is your typical Barossa Shiraz (in wine analogy terms speaking). I prefer the Riesling this time.

Score: 89

Asking if it is worth the price is probably not the right question here. I tasted and own the old 1957 OB and its equivalent from Berry Bros. & Rudd, both excellent drams, but not extra special (over 90 points, below 94). The value in this bottling is elsewhere – it is magical in many ways, not rationally explainable. And for those twelve lucky guys who can afford it, it will be an amazing centerpiece of liquid and solid art in their collections – although this might break the wallets and hearts of some less wealthy Bowmore collectors. Maybe I will be able to taste this gem one day, who knows. I’d love to. And if not I won’t begrudge the bottle its owners and simply enjoy the beauty of it vicariously.

The fourty from the same vintage

I loved the ‚Cowboy’s Campfire Dram‘ release (SMWS 29.102), an amazing Laphroaig. Let’s see how these two compare in a head-to-head:

Laphroaig 12 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 29.105, ‚Massive and volcanic‘, 25.3.1999 – 8.2011, Refill Sherry Butt, 619 btl., 59,6%

Comment: Typical, very dirty, peaty and maritime with a green herbal touch, hot ash, slight mint aromas, much salt and pepper, mustard seed and a very discrete sherry influence. The power on the palate is enormous, what an explosion of peat and spice with heavy oily aromas, untamed Islay to the core, then my beloved matchstick sulphur and soot set in for good and the dram ends on these notes – smoother than expected – but still monstrous. I like it without water for its punchiness, but water makes it very well rounded and accessible. Try for yourself.

Score: 90

Laphroaig 20 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 29.104, ‚Not for wee boys‘, 12.10.1990 – 2011, refill sherry butt, 584 btl., 58,2%

Comment: Something went wrong with this cask, a bit of fungi, rubber and rotten sherry cover and dull down the usual Laphroaig features, but there also are nice aromas of ginger bread, curry and forest floor (Ben Nevis-like). Chocolate, sauerkraut and bacon add to the mix, a really unusual one. I am not yet decided. The taste is a bit more Laphroaig now (spicier than nose) but still in the same camp, quite sweet, then heavy peat smoke, the finish finally displays South coastal Islay features in a more typical way (soot, sulphur, peat, iodine). Worth a try, yet uncommon. No water needed.

Score: 86

Glenfarclas 2001 – 2011 OB ‚The Family Casks‘ for Potstill (Vienna), first-fill Sherry Cask 2819, 318 btl., 60,1%

Comment: To put it short and sweet, this Farclas has a classic dark sherry profile with morello cherries and jam, ginger bread, dark chocolate, dark wet wood, mahogani, caramel and a hint of aniseed (typical of Glenfarclas), all well-balanced and powerful. A recommendation for you Sherry-heads out there!

Score: 90

Spirit Hunter: Simon Thompson

White wines from Ugni blanc and Colombar varietals from the Bordeaux region are first double distilled (“à repasse”) in traditional copper pot-stills and then set down to mature in oak casks, only to be woken from a deep slumber – like a sleeping beauty – by a subject of Her Royal Majesty, who has fallen in love with this absolutely unique elixir from Bordeaux. Inspired by the region’s wine making craftsmanship and rich history, resolutely contemporary, the Thompson’s® range offers uniquely selected “eaux-de-vie”, exclusively from the Bordeaux region. The shared history between Bordeaux, Aquitaine and England is long and rich. The discovery of this forgotten treasure will add a new page to that special relationship.

As I love a good brandy, I am curious to try these rare distillates. Only a few hundred bottles of the 25 and 30 year old versions exist. Find out more about them here. Simon Thompson wants to become an established producer in Bordeaux. But can his distillates become rivals for cognacs. Unique, they are! To answer that, let’s try all three currently available versions:

Thompson’s Single Distillery Finest French Grape Brandy, 40%

Comment: On paper, this is not the real deal yet (hence the name) because it is only married with a little Fine Bordeaux A.O.R. However, I am positively surpised. The mixing seems to enhance complexity and the Limousin oak did a good job. The lead notes are hay, straw, dried flowers (geranium)

Union Jack Version

and licorice, which don’t immediately become associated with brandy. In fact, it is a bit whisky-like at first nosing, somehow between the worlds. I am also getting vanilla, soft peppery spice, raisins, green grapes, crystallized oranges, lemons and pineapples. On the palate it clearly presents itself as a grape distillate in a very gentle, light and slightly creamy style. The vanilla and the brighter fruits get bolder and are well in tune with the licorice and hay. This youngest version also finishes like it tastes, a real smooth and light sipper of good quality.

Score: 86

Thompson’s Fine Bordeaux 25 y.o. A.O.R. Single Distillery, Very Limited Edition, 40%

Comment: This brandy actually is 26 years old and way heavier and deeper in style than its predecessor, also more typical. Wonderful aromas of tobacco and soft smoke from fine cigars in cedar wood caress the nose as well as some rancio, marzipan and vanilla. Intriguing Indian restaurant smells join in (sandalwood sticks, Tandoori, Ghee butter, curry), very interesting. There also are raisins, prunes, dates, cherries in chocolate, ginger bread, dough, lemon grass, crystallized citrus fruits, pineapple and a whiff espresso to be found in this complex combo. This complexity translates into the palate and the long finish in a full and slightly creamy style that bears gentle smoothness. The raisins take center stage without going overboard. This is better than many cognacs of the same price category. Recommendation!

Score: 89+

Thompson’s Fine Bordeaux 30 y.o. A.O.R. Single Distillery, Very Limited Edition, 40%

Comment: Here comes the ‚headliner‘, actually being 33 years of age. And how those seven more years in Limousin oak make a difference! There is so much going on in this Fine Bordeaux, amazing. A wonderfully balanced nose without any edges and a depth that displays perfect maturity that reminds me of an old Demerara Rum or a heavily sherried Speyside whisky (Glenfarclas) in its thirties but with still enough trademark brandy features. It is sweeter and darker than the 25. This kind of complexity leaves me speechless: Muscovado sugar molasses, lit cigar, humidor, cedar wood, chocolate-covered coffee beans (mocca), vanilla pod, mahogani, sandal wood, marzipan, old balsamico vinegar, fresh dough, ginger bread, soft smoke, flowerpot earth, geranium, malt beer, walnut liqueur and many fruity elements (dried apricots, prunes with a Hoisin Sauce touch, dates, red grapes and raisins, crystallized oranges and lemon skin) and what not – I kid you not, it’s all there! This elixir from Bordeaux coats the tongue and mouth in fat and creamy fashion and finishes at medium length. Utter bliss. Imagine this dram in cask strength. It would easily rival great cognacs. A ‚must-have‘ at a price point below 100.- Euro.

Score: 92

P.S.: I kept this article back to celebrate the first birthday of this blog (not the page) – which is today :)! Thanks for reading, everyone. Here’s to many more years!

Diesmal war unser Partner Zigarrenschachtel so freundlich, ein Dreier-Robusto-Set zu spendieren. Und gewonnen hat:

Stefan Weinberger

Gratulation und guten Genuss mit den feinen Zigarren vom Fachmann!

Achtung: Noch 4 Plätze für das Tasting in der historischen Whiskytrambahn mit Kultfahrt durch München frei – jetzt noch anmelden (Link klicken)!

Glen Garioch 36 y.o. Douglas Laing Platinum Selection 1967 – 2003, 132 btl., 55,5%

Comment: Definitely a classic in a timeless style. Leather, earthy smoke, spices (also ginger) and glue, honey, dark wood, morello cherries and peaches caress the nose. On the palate, it is a real powerhouse with bright and dark elements in one (which I love). The spiciness bites but there also is a great maltiness. Aditionally, armchair seat aromas emerge. A tiny drop of water helps this dram to become creamier, rounder and more accessible overall – but avoid more H2O as it also evokes soapy elements (not uncommon in 1960 Gariochs). The finish is long and warming on spices, malt, leather, mahogani and pralines. A heavy old malt with distinction.

Score: 90

These collectable pieces always look nice, and some of them contain different versions of Jack Daniel’s Whisky. I remember the fantastic Barrelhouse No. 1, an amazing Tennessee dram.

It is available soon (Sept. 1st in Germany, and in the USA already), go get one if you are into this stuff.

The Label

Allt-a-Bhainne 18 y.o. 20.5.1992 – 2.2011, Bourbon Hogshead No. 6, 273 btl., 56,1%

Comment: Licorice, malt, heather, ginger and coal dust rule this dram. One can also find vanilla cream, oak, toffee, leafs, honey, pistachio, spinach, spices (white pepper and chili) and fruit (mainly apples but also peach and pineapple) in the nose of this Speysider. It tastes and finishes rather dry on hay, licorice, white pepper, oak and apricot fruit, quite similar to its nose. Water helps a lot by making this Allt-a-Bhainne creamy and less dry with a better balance. Decent, I must say. Not only one to complete your ‚drinking map‘ of Scotland.

Score: 84

Macallan 21 y.o. Malts of Scotland 24.01.1990 – 27.05.2011, MoS Fino Sherry Hogshead 1135, 51,5%

Comment: It starts with the typical Macallan balance, this is fab. I find this dram to be quite typical in other aspects too: We got a decent sweetness (from malt and a little from the sherry), crystallized oranges, cherry jam in chocolate-covered gingerbread (Christmas hearts), apple kirsch liqueur, ripe plums, apples, tobacco and a hint of smoke from earthy peat. All these aromas appear in good Macs regularly. In addition to that there are black pepper elements and caramelized lemon skins with a chemical touch. The palate is very smooth despite 51,5% abv. Great balance again and pretty similar to its nose with discrete oakiness. Water isn’t necessary but doesn’t hurt the dram either, but I couldn’t find improvement – so better leave it. The finish is lovely and long, full of gingerbread, cherry pie, sweet malt, chocolate and  Fino sherry. What’s not to like here? But never forget, taste is personal.

Score: 89+

Glenturret 34 y.o. Maltbarn 1977 – 2012, Bourbon Barrel, 249 btl., 48,4%

Comment: Big fruit and spicy oak at first, quite powerful, but this settles quickly. Also lots of vanilla cream, toffee, marzipan and roasted macadamia nuts. The fruit elements are passion fruit, apricot, white peach, strawberry, apple and pear. It also has something like Pina Colada in it, plus some green tea and honeysuckle. 34 years, ok, but the wood is a tad too dominant for me because it doesn’t allow the other aromas take center stage (water doesn’t change that). The first taste impression is Tequila-ish, then fruit, green walnut and big oak n‘ friends take over, all the way into the long finish, where vanilla, passion fruit and coconut reverberate.

Score: 86

Tormore 16 y.o. Whisky-Doris 13.9.1995 – 1.11.2011, Bourbon Hogshead 20213, 132 btl., 53,4% (In memoriam Horst Manthée)

Comment: The nose consists of a fruit basket (pears, apples, oranges and orange zest, peaches, pineapple) and spices (ginger and chili) at first, then butter, some white oak with vanilla and caramel – plus a lot of ‚m‘ join in: marshmallows, malt, meadow (grassy), macadamia nuts and marzipan. On the palate this Tormore adds licorice and honey and needs quite some water to be tamed. A lot of grass now. The wood evocated a lot of spice, which you have to like. The fruit just shortly emerges, but in a fat marmelade style. It finishes in peppery spice, sawdust oak, malt and hints of sweet bright fruit. In summary, this is a very classic Speyside Malt with spicy white oak elements.

Score: 85

Brora 32 y.o. OB Special Release 2011 (Annual Release No. 10), 1500 btl., 54,7%

Comment: Very austere, maritime and mineral, a typical old Brora, but a bit less farmyardy in the nose than usual. It almost strikes me as mild with notes of waxed apple, herbs, discrete vanilla, camphor, diesel and a put-out bonfire (coal smoke, soot ashes) on a stony beach with storm clouds rolling in. More on elegance than power altogether, so you have to be into austerity to go nuts for this one. This profile totally changes in the mouth, it literally explodes on the palate without becoming too sharp. This Brora just went from mild to wild while keeping a great balance. It now unfolds the breathtaking 1972-ish peat-soot-farmyard combo and also reminds me of the Talisker-esque bite (here on black pepper). There are some sweet milky-vanilla-licorice moments that get wiped out by the powerful elements in the finish. The traces of lemony fruits and leather can hold on though and counter the sooty ash and peat. A dram that screams for another glass. It is between the recent releases and a legendary 1972. No water is necessary but the Brora 32 can swim well. I am afraid this one will become very expensive in a few years.

Score: 92

Dram in a Tram II. (Sa., 15. September 2012)

–> High-End Whisky-Tasting bei einer Straßenbahntour durch München <–

– Kult-Guide Rainer Blumer ist auch dabei –

!!! Schnell anmelden und dabei sein !!!

Ort / Beginn: Ostbahnhof München, 18.30 – 22.00 Uhr

Moderation / Whiskys: Pit Krause (Malt Maniacs, www.slowdrink.de), Rainer Blumer und Klaus Onnich vom MVG, der diese Tour erst ermöglicht

Ein super Event – wir werden mit einer echten und historischen Trambahn durch München fahren und dabei Top-Whiskys verkosten. Purer Kult, bei dem Whiskygeschichte Stadtgeschichte trifft. Seid bei dieser zweiten Tour dabei! Beim ersten Mal wollten so viele Genießer teilnehmen, dass wir fast 30 Leute nicht mitnehmen konnten – weshalb wir nun noch eine Runde drehen! Good whisky, good music and an amazing city tour!

Bei den Whiskys/Spirits machen wir wieder keine Kompromisse – wir gehen von ‚mild‘ nach ‚wild‘:

1. Warm-Up: Uralter Armagnac (vermutlich Dupeyron) aus den 1970ern (Premium-Stoff aus alter Sammlung, wird Euch positiv überraschen und die Geschmacksknospen vorbereiten)
2. Auchentoshan 18 y.o. OB Cube dumpy bottle, from 1970ies, 75cl, 43% (bei der ersten Fahrt gewann ein Auchie wie auch schon in Regensburg 2011, also muss die Brennerei ihre Titel verteidigen – alter, leichter und komplexer Lowland-Dram vom Feinsten, sehr rar)
3. Berry Bros. & Rudd 1967 – 1981, Pure Single Malt, screw cap, Soc. Best Import (Italy), 75cl, 43 gradi (Mystery-Dram, dies kann ein Laphroaig, Macallan oder etwas ganz anderes sein, ich konnte trotz Recherche nichts erfahren. Die Macs und Laphs dieser Serie waren göttlich. Uns erwartet auf jeden Fall alter legendärer Whisky, den erst wenige verkostet haben)
4. BenRiach 29 y.o. OB for VA.MA (Italy), 1975 – 9.2005, 216 btl., Hogshead 7211, 59,1% (Kristallin-tropenfruchtiger Single Cask-Whisky der höchsten Kategorie, Mandarine, Ananas, Traubenzucker, würzige Eiche – wow!)
5. The Glendronach 12 y.o. OB (for Teachers) from 1970ies, matured in Sherry Casks, 75cl, 43% (Ein Muss für Sherry-Fans, hoch bewertet, wunderbare Nussigkeit und dunkle Frucht, Schokolade, nasse Erde, tief und komplex. Leider teuer und selten geworden. Einer meiner Lieblings-Glendronach)
6. Old Pulteney 15 y.o. OB, 1983 – 1998, Sherry Cask 1525, 60,8% (Lasst Euch nicht von den nackten Zahlen täuschen, dies ist fantastischer Highland Malt aus dem Sherry-Fass mit dezentem Torf. Der Pulteney 21 y.o. wurde ja bei Jim Murray Whisky des Jahres, aber dieser aus dem Pulteney-Spitzenjahr 1983 kann wesentlich mehr. Absoluter Allrounder und megarar!)
7. Clynelish 14 y.o. Single Cask Collection 14. Sept. 1997 – 13. Feb. 2012, Refill Sherry Hogshead 6891, 302 btl., 56,8% (so geht Clynelish mal anders: für mich 91 Punkte wert, hier könnt ihr die Tasting Note dieses wirklich gelungenen Sherry Clynelish lesen)
8. Ardbeg 10 y.o. Douglas Laing OMC March 1992 – Feb. 2003, 360 btl., 50% (Single Cask Ardbeg vom Kult-Abfüller Douglas Laing – immer wieder ein Genuss der torfig-jodigen Art, der leider immer teurer bezahlt werden muss, da so viel Hype um diese Stoffe herrscht)
9. Laphroaig 12 y.o. C&S Dram Collection 1998 – 2011, Hogshead #284, 59,1% (For-the-Road-Torfbombe mit sehr maritimem Charakter aus dem verlässlichen Laphroaig-Jahrgang 1998 in Fassstärke. Southcoastal Islay, we love you for that!)
   

   Line-up der Fahrt (ohne Glenfarclas)

Die Plätze sind auf 30 limitiert – daher unbedingt schnell anmelden, zuletzt waren wir nach zwei Tagen ausreserviert. Die Anmeldung ist mit einer mail und der Überweisung der Tastinggebühr komplett.

Anmeldung: info@slowdrink.de

Kosten: 99,90 Euro (inkl. Straßenbahnfahrt und Whisky; mit der Anmeldung erhaltet Ihr die Bankverbindung)

Impressionen der letzten Tour findet Ihr in der Galerie (rechts) und hier:

Longmorn 35 y.o. Douglas Laing Platinum 1968 – 2003, 95 btl., 57,8%

Comment: Amazingly balanced allrouder quality (we have dark and bright fruits, a discrete and noble spiciness), deep like the financial crisis and full of life after 35 years in the cask. This complex Longmorn bursts wine gum, tropical fruits, peaches, mirabelles, some plums and cherries. in the background notes of short bread and vanilla pastry (‚Vanillekipferl‘) join the beautiful mix. Let’s taste it: Yes! On the palate it keeps all its promises and simply delivers. Typical of old Longmorn, we have this special cristalline fruitiness (dextrose-like) that can get you addicted. Forget adding any water. All this malt mania ends in a glorious finish that underscores the depth of this dram again. There was an absolute silence among the tasters – a real good sign. We tried to find a bottle, but at an outturn of 95, we are still looking for one to come home.

Score: 93+

Glenrothes 30 y.o. Gordon & MacPhail ‚The Macphail’s Collection‘, 43%

Comment: This quite dark liquid with a nice Sherry-cask influence reveals a very complex nose consisting of dark fruits (plums, raisins), baked apple, dark forest honey, nougat, pomegranate seeds, pine needle, pepper and cinnamon. On the palate this unusual yet harmonic profile renders pine resin, apples, sandalwood, fallen leafs, pomegranate and this wonderful Sherry note again. The medium-length finish follows the described style and reminds the taster of mulled wine (hot wine punch with Christmas spices). Nicely strange, altogether and therefore, a recommendation!

Score: 90

Highland Park 11 y.o. The Maltman (Meadowside Blending), released 2012, 46%

sorry, not photo of bottle

Comment: Malty and fruity start, some leather, quite some vanilla and toffee, a nice spice-combo, coffee beans, apples, raspberry, candyfloss, good intensity yet very accessible. One for every kind of taste, I’d say. In the mouth this one performs like the great allrounder it promises to be with fruity glycerins and the maritime freshness. A classic Highland Park as it should be that finishes with traces of peat, heather and leather. Very typical too. Great stuff that screams for another pour.

Score: 89

Highland Park 11 y.o. Whisky-Doris 6.2000 – 01.2012, Bourbon Cask, 53,3%

Comment: Spicier and more leather than its predecessor at first. This requires more time to open up but then has more to tell. It becomes fruitier with each minute. Lead aromas are moss, hints of peat, apples, raspberries, ozone in seaspray and a beautiful American oak influence. Doris’s version has some extra depth to it, which I like. The spicy heat also translates into the palate and unfortunately shows less complexity there. Water broadens the profile by 100%. Good and satisfying finish with the peaty and spicy grip (but no king of balance). If you are into spice though, this is your choice. All these drams are on a high level.

Score: 88

Highland Park 11 y.o. Archives 2000, Bourbon Hogshead 800005, 129 btl., 50,9%

Comment: Not very different from the Whisky-Doris release, but it has more vanilla and reveals its secrets of fruit (raspberries and banana, mainly), spice and leather a bit earlier. There also are some pears, coal, white chocolate and milk coffee. By the way, white chocolate (maybe even with raspberries) goes very well with Highland Park whisky in general as a food pairing. The Archive babe tastes and finishes like it noses, all the way high class and very well balanced. No water needed. Adorable and very quaffable. Recommendation. I don’t know why some other tasters weren’t so fond of it.

Score: 90

Highland Park 11 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society 10.1999, SMWS 4.155, first-fill Bourbon Barrel, 58,6%

Comment: This is the aromatic smoky one in the bunch – plus the American oak weighs in more intensely. A tad bit simpler and less complex than the others altogether. Moss, peppery spice, pear and leather are to be found right away again but the whole dram is a bit sharp and more zesty overall. Water helps this one a lot. On the palate, the herb brigade rides in, accompanied by captain peach (sorry for that!). A bit unusual. Smoky and spicy finish with some toffee and green apples.

Score: 87+

Highland Park 17 y.o. C&S Dram Collection 1994 – 2012, Hogshead 22046, 55,7%

Comment: Let’s see how the older brother behaves. Oh, he’s from the farm, or he smells like that at least. Completely different from the others, very leathery and full of  stable-smells, also very coastal. Old Ardbeg-like antiseptic moments with sulphur, smoke, peat and dirty tires. Some lemony fruit, pepper, salt and dried hay as well. What an edge this has to it, wow!  No water here! I wouldn’t have guessed this as HP-Sauce in a blind tasting, that is for sure. The palate also screams old style South Coast Islay with that magnificent peat, iodine and salt. Kenny, it isn’t funny to bottle an older Ardbeg as a Highland Park ! Seriously, this is definitely not typical for HP, but extremly good if you are into discrete and complex Islay drams with some phenols – plus you can fool your friends in a blind tasting. I score its quality, not its typicality, so the score is high. Mmmmh.

Score: 91

Skye 24 y.o. ‚Undercover #2‘ The Nectar of the Daily Drams 1984 – 2008, 82 btl., 51,9%

Comment: Not very typical but clearly Talisker when you look for the classic features. We have loads of pepper, maritime moments, coffee, vanilla and a nice clean character overall. Good choice!

Score: 89

Isle of Skye 50 y.o. Ian MacLeod, bottled 2008 (Blended Scotch Whisky), 400btl., 41,6%

Comment: Rumour has it that this blend contains a high percentage of Single Malt and even more so,  a lot of Talisker, hence the name. Other ingredients are from Girvan and Cragganmore, I heard. It better be good at a price point of roughly 900 pound, but fifty is a magic number. The oldie starts out fresh and fruity (peaches, passion fruit) with vanilla, toffee, candyfloss, some herbs, a saw mill oakiness and a bit of pepper in the background. A classic old Bourbon cask style in the nose. On the palate it is way more herbal than expected, an elegant and green whisky: green tea, green herbs spring meadows and slightly bitter aromas. There also are faint peat, wet moss and crystallized oranges – a very unusual taste (which we should embrace). The finish is not ultra-long but a real pleasure, mostly on fruit and oak. Good whisky, crazy price.

Score: 89

Bowmist Finest West Highland Scotch Whisky, distilled, matured at Bowmore, Sherriffs Bowmore Distillery, 70 proof

Nose: Very fresh and floral, also somewhat spicy. An elegant light and creamy dram with a discrete maritime edge. I am getting cassis, apricots and a whiff of passion fruit, herbs and ferns, tobacco leafs, toffee, creme brulee and Bavarian creme.

Palate: In the mouth it starts out like an old blend (light, old bottle flavour) but then the noble old Bowmore character shines through. It might be less complex than its nose but still shows nice lead aromas of dark mahogani wood and apricots.

Finish: Not very long, more on elegance and smoothness, but that on a high level.

Score: 89

Bowmore  13 y.o. The Maltman, Cask sample for Pit, Sherry Cask (no further information)

Comment: New style Bowie, more intense and on primary notes than the others below at the first whiff, quite some acidity, more fruity than herbal in its basic style. Still recognizable Bowmore character though. In the background I find pine resin and atlantic freshness with sea spray (ozone). No obvious Sherry is detetable (which I don’t mind). It finishes really impressive. All in all it reminds me of the Tempest (Original Bottling). I’d say it is ready to be bottled but could mature two or three more years but not longer as it might lose intensity. Don’t dilute for filling – thanks for this personal sample!

Current Score (if that makes sense): 89+

Bowmore 21 y.o. The Maltman, Bourbon Cask, 46%

Comment: This dram is more in the old style of the late 1980ies/early 1990ies but fortunately lacks the perfumy part to a great extent, a real elegant sip, but altogether not dramatically different fom the 13 y.o. reviewed above. We have vanilla, ferns, mustard seed, leather, some fruits hinted at (like in an aquarelle picture), forest floor, discrete smoke and on the whole a greener and more vegetal style. In taste it suffered a bit from dilution as it is too thin on the palate, but that on a very high level … if you like smooth Islay drams this is the one to pick.

Score: 88

Bowmore 1994 – 2009 Berry Brothers & Rudd, Cask 1681, 56,3%

Comment: Again close to 13 y.o. from above in the basic profile, but way sootier and more peppery. This also displays wonderful saltiness and a mineral acidity. It is very Bowmore in style with all the complex elements this classic has, but it is also very powerful, a hidden power somehow, because it holds back at first. I like the notes of soot and iodine on one end, the vanilla and lilac on the other a lot. Both worlds of Bowmore in one dram. It really explodes in the mouth and departs from the understatement of the nose. This Bowmore is extra-special, a most elegant yet strong interpretation of the peat genre with great balance and a very long finish. It needs no water whatsoever. After one sip you wish for a bottle…and so did everyone in our tasting in the streetcar (Dram in a Tram).

Score: 91

Bowmore 15 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1997 – 2012, Bourbon Hogshead, 53,7%

New Duck Editions

Comment: Duck fetishist Jens Unterweger brought us a new Bowmore in his duck-series. Quack! Aaah yes, it is one of those Bowies that retain distillery character but deliver a lot of power. Great freshness and balance to boot, altogether more on the spicy side. I like the white pepper and herbal plays in the background here … definitely one for a Bowmore sucker like me – if you like spiciness and herbs. Finally, there are soot and flints plus the classic Bowmore character in the finish. Water helps to balance the spiciness.

Score: 89

I am  grateful for the company, the generous additions to our range and the fine food (among many great antipasti there were Highland Cattle and Bison from the grill) prepared by Christoph Hauser and my wife. Here are some impressions – enjoy and join us next time!

The Original Range

What we actually had ...

Total Exhaustion at the Grill (Wine Academic Christian Thoma and Chef Christoph Hauser)

Some of our Guests

Love and Joy

My Winners

Littlemill 23 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1988 – 2012, Sherry Cask, 52,4%

Nose: This one defines complexity, there are so many aroma components on a fruity-sourish base – but they still mingle into great balance. So let’s go counting: There are earthy elements (moss, wet earth, hints of peat), flowers, dry malt, herbs and a little pepper, big fruit (morello cherries, raisins, dried peaches, tangerines, prunes, lemon zests), ice tea, berries, pine needles and wonderful humidor smells. In some moments this Littlemill has features of older Macallan whisky as well. Great!

Palate: It continues to amaze me. All mentioned flavour elements are there and create a mindboggling coherent mix. No water is necessary, but it brings berries (blackcurrant) and leather more to the foreground.

Finish: Staying true from start to finish. The main elements that linger are sweet malt and morello cherries. What a dram!

Comment: A great pick again, even a notch better than the Archive version. Don’t forget to organize me a bottle, Jens. I am dead serious.

Score: 91+

Mortlach 50 y.o. Gordon & MacPhail 1942 – 1993, 40%

Nose: A great balance and this perfect old-style Sherry, sweet and lush with just the right amount of bitterness to counter, aaahhh. Lots of aromas pile up: fruit salad in sirup, loads of cherries, marzipan, honeycomb, sweet maltiness, black pepper, tires, gingerbread, chocolate, fruit jams (apricot and dark fruits), rare steak, even a hint of maracuja and almonds. That’s what I call complexity. There also is a mouldy note of a wet warehouse in the background. Altogether, close to a perfect nose, I must say.

Palate: Silky tannins, sulphur of the good kind and all that jazz from its nose. Nice! In addition, there are

Mortlach's funny odd set of stills

more bitter components of wet wood plank, espresso and dark chocolate now, which I like (but not everbody). Of course, this is a bit thin after all these years at a strength of 40% abv. So big sips are recommended to make up for that.

Finish: The bitter touch gives way for marzipan sweetness, honey, sherry-echoes, dark oak and chocolate at medium length.

Comment: Not only an educative dram – they don’t make ‚em like that anymore – but also utter joy. Just like Ulf, a great elder gentleman!

Score: 93-

1) Cragganmore 1999 – 10.2011 Malts of Scotland, Bourbon Hogshead MoS 11012, 55,1%

Photo: thewhiskycask.de

Comment: A lot of Bourbon cask character welcomes you here in this dark dram, big white oak, tropical fruit (pineapple) and sweet vanilla – almost an American nose. There is not much distillery character left, indeed have I never encountered such a huge Bourbon influence in a Scotch. This is Scourbon (or Bourtch). I am also getting rising dough and some honey. How is the taste of this mid-atlantic dram? Well, a lot like a fine Bourbon with hints of Scotch. Water makes it more accessible and complex, but not different in style. One more to put down to experience, not bad at all, just very…Southern. Drink that one with a chicken-fried steak.

Score: 87

2) Cragganmore 12 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society 2.1999 – 2011, SMWS 37.49, Refill Bourbon Hogshead, 248 btl., 54,2%

Comment: Brighter than its predecessor. It reveals a nice complexity on the herbal side, also many tropical fruits (tangerines, grapefruit, peaches, passion fruit), dry malt and whiffs of sawdust. Behind these lead aromas I can find almond oil and reminiscences of a fat Riesling Auslese from Baden. On the palate it has a wonderful balance, everything is there and in place, no water is necessary in this oily dram. It develops into a ‚fruitcakey‘ direction and finishes really well, no offnotes, just plain good malt.

Score: 89+

3) Cragganmore 21 y.o. The First Editions 1989 – 2011, Refill Bourbon Hogshead, 268 btl., 55,4%

Photo: Sixtyseven-Seventy

Comment: Again, a different profile, fragile, well-balanced and Chardonnay-like – more typical of the distillery as herbs come through as well in amazing complexity (quite mediterranean and minty overall). There also is grass, malt, lemon zest, pear (with blue cheese), peach and a trace of vanilla pod. It tastes less fragile as the nose would suggest – good grip on malt, herbs and wood. Water makes it more elegant. A good pick.

Score: 89