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Impressionen

Ob Whiskytram, Rhum-Verkostung in der Havana-Bar, Whiskywalk, Höhlentasting, Schottland-Fahrt, Jubiläums-Verkostung, spirituelles Dinner (Foodpairing 2.0), niveauvoller Junggesellenabschied, Probe zu Weihnachten und Geburtstagen,

good times at slowdrink

Salzboottour, Movie and Malt oder die klassischen Seminare – viel Wissenswertes und gute Stimmung stehen bei uns im Mittelpunkt. Auf Augenhöhe holen wir die Genießer ab und geben neue Impulse. Dabei helfen uns auch die engsten Kontakte zu diversen Brennereien, die wir mitunter sogar beraten. Gerne senden wir Euch Referenzen.

Für ein paar Eindrücke von slowdrink empfehlen wir unsere Galerie oder folgende Bilder:

papstgesegneter Club

Malt Maniacs

BIZARREBQ-RELEASE

The latter one I could taste recently. Ardbeg states: „The connection to the topic of barbecue is not only made by the smoky notes of the peated malt, but also by the element of fire: double charred Pedro Ximénez sherry casks and specially developed „BBQ casks„, which were extra charred in an old-fashioned brazier, help the Ardbeg BizarreBQ to a special sweet-spicy-smoky aroma.“ – I found this dram successful and round, quite sooty and the pronounced notes of sweet smoke fit well. 90 points – although I categorize this as a typical version close to an Uigeadail, yet slightly more BBQ-ish.

ARDBEG ‚HEAVY VAPOURS‘ 46%

For Ardbeg Planet Day 2023 (June 3rd, online already on May 23rd) the release of Heavy Vapours is scheduled, the stronger Committee Version comes online tomorrow (25.04.), both at a price point of 135 Euro.

This expression has been distilled without the influence of their usual purifier being present on the still. The spirit has been laid down to mature in ex-bourbon casks. The purifier-apparatus on the still is responsible for maintaining Ardbeg’s balance between extreme peat and floral fruitiness as it catches „heavy vapours“ and redistilles them. Without it, what will happen?

Actually, I find the difference way smaller than expected. The ‚Heavy Vapours‘-release remains a classic and flawless Ardbeg, and it is round! The nose sports more coffee, chocolate and coal smoke than usual. There is also a greenish touch in the aroma (Mezcal-agave, Aloe, hops), but this stems more from its young age, I guess. Hot transformers, gun cleaner oil, chalk, tar, iodine, tires, earthy peat, antiseptic spray and more Ardbeggian insanity complete the intriguing nose. It tastes even more ‚ardbeggy‘ as I thought. No rough edges here, maybe a tad less sweet, more bittersweet I dare say. Smoke wafting in and out, nice dustiness, darker. An interesting yet not dramatically different Ardbeg experience. 89 points.

It is a rare occasion these days that I am completely infatuated by a dram – or that I shell out 3.5 k for a bottle of it. Both happened here. I didn’t expect it to be that good … and I am glad that the group of friends on the label unearthed it and had the balls to bottle such a bomb. Respect! Loads of work and money involved in such an undertaking.

Comment: As this is pure magic, I keep it shorter than usual. You don’t explain a great joke either … . This is typical old Lagavulin yet so unique in its own amazing way. Character, character, character! This Single Cask Lagavulin starts off on balsamic leathery notes, gunpowder and big iodine. Being almost Brora-esque in moments, it is tertiary in aromas, the sherry is perfectly integrated, all is spirit-driven and complex, tightly knit. On the sweet side altogether. I am getting suckling pig skin and ears, diced roasted bacon (crunchy for more umami), BBQ-rub with herbs on pork, terpentine, ointment, old plaster, deep peat, glowing ashes, coal mine cart, cooked onions, chocolate nips with caramel, weapon oil, miniature train tracks and what not. I love it! The iodine sweetness, kid’s gunpowder and the porkiness are king here yet all this is perfectly harmonious. Great palate, eternal finish, high drinkability. Darn good, the best new dram of the year so far!

Score: 94-95 (I lean towards 95)

P.S.: Of course I was paid for my review and got three free bottles which I just popped on my yacht in St. Tropez with the boys (and loads of girls) accompanied by a mountain of coke. It is absolutely mediocre booze For real. We conspire to fool y’all, bitches! Kudos to those few Sherlocks who found us out. Great job!

Nachdem ich einige fantastische Drams von meinen Freunden bei DTS & W (danke Jürgen und Tobi) aus diesem Hause zugesandt bekommen habe, war ich baff. Beispielsweise war ein Spitzen-Bowmore dabei (2000-2021, 56,5%, 91 Punkte), und auch ein Benrinnes 2007 (57,9%, 88 Punkte) wusste zu überzeugen. Auch die anderen aktuellen Abfüllungen konnten was.

Dabei legte mir Jürgen eine exklusive Abfüllung für den deutschen Markt ans Herz, einen Longmorn „Private Cask“ aus der Barrel Selection, den ich nun verkosten werde:

Longmorn 14 y.o. Wilson & Morgan 2007 – 2022, Barrel Selection ‚Private Cask‘ 800354, refill Hogshead / Virgin Oak, 211 btl., 48,0%

Kommentar: Der obstgartige Longmorn verträgt ein 16-monatiges Virgin-Oak-Finish bestimmt gut, war mein erster Gedanke. Ich bin eh ein Fan dieser Brennerei. Gerüchte sagen, das erste refill Hogshead war ein Caol Ila-Fass. Mmmh, müsste man beides schmecken, dazu alles ungefärbt… . Es empfängt einen eine malzig-fruchtige Nose mit Vanille, Weißeiche und feiner Würze durch das Virgin Oak (Baumrinde, Kardamom, Pfeffer). Wie immer lohnt sich Geduld, denn erst dann spielt der Longmorn die Fruchtkarte: getrocknete Aprikosen, Haribo-Pfirsiche, Macedonia-Obstsalat, Kiwi, Kirsche Banane, Beeren. Wow! Dazu gesellen sich Dosenmilch, Dulce de Leche (Toffee, Karamell, Vanille) und eine Spur Maische. Im Hintergrund kann man tatsächlich Torf erahnen, der der Sache eine runde Mineralik beimischt. Am Gaumen wird dies noch deutlicher. Dieser Dram ist toll und gleichzeitig anders. Er kommt nun leicht torfig und moorig daher, Moos, Salzlache, Moltebeeren, Geißblatt, Waldboden, Banane, Anklänge an irische Whiskys kommen in den Sinn, karges grünes Land, wenig Holz, frische Brise, viel Charakter – komplex! Auch das Finish nimmt mich voll mit, genau meine Baustelle, alle vorigen Nuancen spiegeln sich wieder in bester Balance bei großer Trinkigkeit. Spitzenauswahl und Fassmanagement. Ein absoluter Tipp (81,90 Euro VK)!

Score: 89+

Unser lieber Freund Stefan Bügler – einer dieser Menschen, die die Freude am Whisky großzügig teilen und einfach angenehme Zeitgenossen sind – ermöglicht Euch nun einen Blick hinter den Vorhang mit drei wirklich exklusiven Whiskys von St. Kilian, die das Potenzial der Brennerei zeigen. Passend zur Idee heißt diese Serie ‚Whisky Folks‘. Jede Abfüllung für sich ist eine Empfehlung und interpretiert das Rüdenauer ‚Water of Life‘, gebrannt am gleichen Tag – völlig anders – durch die Wahl der Fässer:  sehr hoher Lerneffekt … when the peat meets the sweet …

St. Kilian ‚peated‘ PX-Hogshead 666 (American Oak), 18. Januar 2017 – 30. April 2021, Whisky Folks Private Cask, 433 btl., 60,0%

Kommentar: The number of the beast – klasse Fassnummer mit dem Titel ‚pleased to meet you‘! Und da ich gerne handfeste Vergleiche mag, dies wäre der Ardbeg der drei Fässer (hinkender Vergleich, aber Ähnlichkeiten), die Geschmacksfarbe wäre braun. Torf, süße BBQ-Sauce und Jod, Reifen und Teer, dann Pinienharz, antiseptisches Spray, Spur Vulkanschwefel, Kreide, Kalk, Waffenöl, alte Hütte, Stall, Kaffee, auch Zitrusfrüchte, Datteln und Rosinen – dazu eine diskrete Sherrynote, die im Geschmack wesentlich deutlicher wird und gut eingewoben ist. Am Gaumen gesellen sich außerdem Leder, Pflaumen und Burnout-Reifenspuren hinzu, ein BBQ am Torf-Bauernhof. Gebt ihm Zeit, tolle Entwicklung, langer Abgang. Sweet peat, dirty core – 666 eben. Noch zu haben für 69,90 Euro (siehe Link unten).

Score: 89

Hier der Link zum Shop mit der ganzen Story: St. Kilian | 666 Whisky Folks Private Cask | Wein-Riegger Onlineshop

St. Kilian ‚peated‘ Bourbon-small cask (Garrison Bros., TX) 498, 18. Jan. 2017 – 08. Sept. 2021, Whisky Folks Private Cask, 86 btl., 61,2%

Kommentar: ‚A Cowboy called Peat‘ heißt diese Version und stammt aus einem 50l-Fass der texanischen Brennerei Garrison Brothers. Ich befürchtete zuerst eine zu krasse Holzigkeit, da diese Fässer echt enorme Kraft ausspielen, doch hier hat es spitze funktioniert. Dies wäre der Caol Ila der Serie, um bei diesen Vergleichen zu bleiben, seine Geschmacksfarbe wäre ein blasses Gelb. Wir haben hier neben dem Torf eine Mineralik, Austern mit Zitrone, Grapefruit, Mentholfrische, Wacholder, Olivenöl, Kunstleder, weißer Pfeffer, etwas Jod, Anklänge von Mezcal, Gurke, Eisen. Gelegentlich kommen durch das kleine Fass sogar Rum- und Bourbonanklänge durch, Kokos, Vanille, Marshmallow und Gewürzkaugummi (Zimt, Kardamom). Eine echt ungewöhnliche Nase, die gefällt, aber Zeit braucht. Am Gaumen ist der Cowboy kristallklar, leicht trocken, jodig und mineralisch, das Holz ist in genau der richtigen Dosis eingesetzt worden, auch Frucht kommt schön durch. Im Abgang wird er dann süßer und lässt die tolle Aromen-Kombination nochmals aufscheinen. Feines Ding. Für 74,90 Euro noch erhältlich (siehe Link unten).

Score: 89

Hier der Link zum Shop mit der ganzen Story: St. Kilian | 498 A Cowboy called Peat – Whisky Folks Private Cask | Wein-Riegger Onlineshop

St. Kilian ‚peated‘ first-fill Oloroso Sherry Hogshead 674, 18. Jan. 2017 – 30. Aug. 2021, Whisky Folks Private Cask, 446 btl., 59,6%

Kommentar: ‚Oloroso Glorioso‘ wurde diese Abfüllung getauft, sie entspräche in meinem Dreier-Typvergleich dem Port Charlotte oder einem 1990er Bowmore in Momenten, die Geschmacksfarbe wäre ein bräunliches rot. Industriehalle, Gummistiefel im Torf, Traktorreifen, Kräuter, gereifter Parmigiano, pilziger Waldboden im Herbst, Tannenharz, gesägter Baumstamm, Feuerstein und Mineralik kommen später dazu, auch Wildleder und kandierte Orange. Der edle Sherry bringt dunkle Früchte wie Trauben, Trockenpflaumen, Datteln und Sultaninen mit ein. Am Gaumen zeigt dieses Fass gute Balance, alles hallt wieder in leichter Trockenheit, Sherry, Würze und Teer kämpfen und umspielen die Geschmacksknospen, die im Abgang mit einer dezente Süße von jodigem Charakter und Salz versöhnt werden. 74,90 Euro für diesen dunkleren Burschen, sie Link unten).

Score: 89

Hier der Link zum Shop mit der ganzen Story: St. Kilian | 674 Oloroso glorioso – Whisky Folks Private Cask | Wein-Riegger Onlineshop

Fazit aller drei Drams: Ein lehrreicher und schöner Vergleich und eine Empfehlung. Holt Euch, solange es geht – Szenestoff!

Consequently, this new Ardbeg is of great learning effect. It represents a taste stemming from much longer fermentation due to a broken boiler in November 2007: three weeks instead of 72 hours, the longest in Ardbeg history! I don’t know if the yeast stopped working for a while during the cooldown. The Ardbeg team, led by Dr. Bill Lumsden, opened the washbacks to allow Islay air penetrate more intensively. An experiment was born. Dr. Bill always wanted to find out the effects of longer fermentation and the boiler accident presented itself as the chance to see. Fitting the long fermentation, a longer maturation time was granted (13 years). Ardbeg fans, be excited for this one.

Comment: This is a typical spirit-driven Ardbeg of the good kind, to start out with. The nose is a stunner, very balanced and old-school Ardbeg, sweet peaty joy. I am getting a smouldering forest fire here, loads of pine and beech smoke, soot, resin, tar, sweet BBQ-sauce, sulphur and big iodine (which I love in such drams). Of course, tires, leather, coffee roast, milk chocolate, chalk, aloe, menthol, lemon drop and herbs are there too. Also some food analogies: A burnt steak with black pepper and chili rub comes to my mind somehow. Despite the discrete wood (I guess mostly refill) there is vanilla creme with toffee sauce for dessert, some orange and apple slices on the side. All this is so enticingly sweet, harmonious and well-integrated. I expected way more funk, but this is a fine and pronounced smokiness with deep iodine and phenols.

On the palate, this has the slim and drinkable profile that is so typical of Ardbeg. Mild start on spritely, minty and acidic tones, then it builds itself up towards spice and burning embers. Round again, quaffability is king.

It finishes on depth! Iodine! Peat, tanned leather, old wood, salt, soot and chalk – and this great sweetness again.

Altogether I think the longer fermentation resulted in a profile from older days of Ardbeg in parts. Iodine, a spice-laden maltiness and round integration of all aromas are to mention. I am getting a bottle and drink it with an old friend!

Score: 90

Join the Ardbeg Committee to get your bottle (in Germany, this is 8th February 2022)!

Cognac Jean-Luc Pasquet ‚Organic‘ 2006-2021, Cask 27, Grande Champagne, Kirsch Import, 50,1%

Comment: This is as ’single‘ as it gets! From their own hand-picked organic grapes, this eau de vie was self-distilled on gas, and filled into single casks. I kid you not, it starts out like a Calvados. So many apple aromas (pie, green apple, compote, tart tatin) and vanilla jump out of the glass, then big banana, pears, raisins and butter join in. Sandal wood and oak are also playing a major part. Fresh linen, lime-infused cake glaze and white chocolate complete this unusual but harmonious nose – fresh!

On the palate it arrives sweeter than expected, mainly on baked apples, butter and oriental spice. Round and sound – winey acidity, grapes and yes, Calvados, show up. Very alive!

It finishes on medium-length with spice from exotic woods, fruit (apple, banana, grapes) and vanilla pod. A wild and unusual ride with a fresh experience in the field of Cognac! One to learn a lot from …

Score: 87-88

Cognac Vallein Tercinier ‚Small Batch‘ 41-43 – 2021, Kirsch Import, Bons Bois, 78 btl., 48,2%

Comment: A rare Single Estate and cask strength Cognac gem from WWII. which is now sold by a German importer – how times have changed for the better! That alone is heart-warming. It has spend its life in cask until 2006, then in Dame Jeannes (glass balloons). Let’s nose: ooops, who put the Bowmore 1968 in here? Almost kitsch in terms of fruitiness (passion fruit, guava, papaya, pink grapefruit, apple, lychee, plum, raisins, cherry) and berry aromas (all kinds, cassis etc.), uber-fruity, joined by minerality and the discreetest old wood – almost purely spirit-driven! It also plays fir twigs, moss, humidor, rancio, vanilla, lilacs, violets and so much more – in perfect balance like a finely tuned stereo!

It builds itself up on the palate, from mild to strong, from floral, acidic and wood-spice elements to huge exotic fruits, berries and a nutty rancio aspect with sweets! An amazing development in my mouth! I recommend big sips here – don’t miss this!

The finish should be illegal! All is reunited like on a huge water colour painting in which every now and then another highlight shines out. A piece of art, and not tired at all! Amazing pick with history – get it!

Score: 92

Cognac Bache Gabrielsen American Oak (Double Maturation) VSOP/4 y.o. for Kirsch, Single Cask, Fins Bois, 64,1%

Comment: This is a crazy one, very unusual. The producer with Norwegian roots is known for going modern and special ways in Cognac maturation. We loved the blue XO at cask strength from 15 years ago. This new release for Germany has spent its life in French and Tennessee oak and the Ugni Blanc grapes came from the Fins Bois region. Not your classic stats. But boy, taste this powerhouse. Heavy Hervé-style :).

With this one you can fool most people at a tasting – mix it among the whiskies and nobody complains. The mature nose is clearly showing American oak characteristics like vanilla, pineapple, banana, peaches and coconut. The grapes and raisins play second fiddle. Also there is some marzipan and white oak. Basically like a Pina Colada from the Charente! It tastes and swims well, no off-notes at all, vanilla-cream-style, and: more cognac shines through now. Honey, flowers, espresso, creme brulee, hints of tropical fruits. The sheer power is fun and the balance is surprising. Of course, it is no complexity monster after four years of maturation, but it tastes darn good! Not for cognac purists, but great for whisky fans and people who love to transgress borders. Simply a good drink. Stay curious! The long finish leaves you puzzled by what you just had. Cool and fun choice!

Score: 87

Finest Jamaican Rum, over 25 years old, Duckhammers / Wu Dram Clan, 164 btl., 50,1% 

Comment: I love the label. And estery rums. So let’s dive into the parrot’s feathers: Often older Jamaicans lose their funk, but here it is well-preserved yet more balanced and mature – a great nose! It starts out with old brown bandaids soaked in iodine, olive tapenade, almonds, ripe banana, star fruit, hot mulch, glue and bitumen – all with a sweet overtone, enticing! Gletschereis drops (a classic German sweet for refreshment from way back, lemony-minty in taste) meet caramelized burnt sugar, licorice, veggie stew, burnt raisins, roots, fence coating colour can, malaga ice cream (rum-raisins), Yuzu and Sicilian lemon.

It tastes likewise and so goooood – noble funk! Milder than one would expect (great alcohol integration), all on high class, lending itself perfectly for the early session of estery rums – or for an introduction into this category on highest quality. Long finish! I NEED MORE.  On the side, this probably is the most guyanese Jamaican I had, which is not a bad thing – both worlds meet here. Wow. Me want parrot now!

Score: 90+

Ledaig 25 y.o. Wu Dram Clan / Duckhammers / The Whisky Kingdom / Kyoto FWS 1995 – 2021, Hogshead 143, 50,6%

Comment: Education first: The peated Tobermory has risen to stellar quality in the vintages 1972/73, when they shared the malted barley with Brora, Talisker and such, as rumors go. Try and you know what I mean. After these years, Ledaig somewhat changed into a lesser peaty, leathery dram with somewhat volatile distillates, not often bottled. Only after 2005, the heavy peat returned with partly great results and higher outturns in the indie market.

This specimen is a perfect example of an outlier of the good kind. I am glad the Wu-sters dug up this one. After a great younger Kraken which I loved, they follow up with the second octopus.

The nose clearly is in the in the sour-fruity and spicy camp, autumnal somehow (fallen leaves), very nice and off the beaten track. At first I am getting tangerine, raspberry, kiwi, kumquat, grapefruit, peach, lemon drops, ginger, malt, yeast, leather, willow wood (aspirin, anyone) and glazed nut pastries. Inriguing mix. There also is sheep wool in a woollen mill, wet earth and discrete peat, hay, ginger bread, hazelnut, vanilla, incense, licorice, egg salad, brine and pepper. Compexity! It keeps getting fruitier by the time.

On the palate it is powerful and laden with spices, sour fruits and leather. Old wood meets shoe shine on fine leather brogues, willow branch, peach and licorice again. Water is not hurting it, try as you please.

It finishes long while becoming sweeter, the spices remain, nuttiness also joins the crescendo. The perfect dram for this time of year on a walk through the forest. Beware of tree krakens!

Score: 90

Ardbeg 20 y.o. OB 24.05.2001 – 10.06.2021 Wu DRAM Clan’s Private Reserve, Refill Bourbon Barrel 348, 155 btl., 46,6%

Comment: Let’s start by NOT arguing about its price. It is a personal decision to splurge on great booze, which this undoubtly is, and such are prices of Single Cask releases by Ardbeg or DIAGEO these days. No one has to buy, so leave it there. I think it takes big hairy balls to bring such babies to the market. So kudos – why not! We don’t judge price , only quality matters.

Many people were so keen on trying this. I am glad to be in the position now, I gave it two sessions. Not the shabbiest of moments :).

A typical Ardbeg right from the start, the refill Bourbon barrel allows the oily spirit to shine. Weapon oil (Ballistol), tires, burning pine cone, iodine, peat, leather, ointment, tarry rope with kelp, lemonized oyster, chalk, minerality, coal, aloe, menthol and mezcal, dirty harbour smells, cannon smoke – the whole spiel of a great Ardbeg in sweet background, aaahhh.

It tastes even better than it noses as it takes the direction of old-style Ardbeg now on leather, soot, flinty smoke and pine resin – no off-note here, just classic mature South coast Islay goodness with the typical slim and sweet profile in the middle, which every Ardbeg should have (sorry 8).

The amazing finish swells with iodine, soot, peat, flint, chalk, hints of espresso and burnt tires. A very good mellow cask that takes us back into the 1970s for moments!

Score: 92

Ben Nevis 24 y.o. Wu Dram Clan / Duckhammers / The Whisky Kingdom 1996 – 2021, Bourbon Hogshead 1408, 290 btl., 45,6%

Comment: Aaaahh, a spirit-driven, waxy fruit bomb that develops. Gooseberry, white peach Bellini, grapefruit, passionfruit, kiwi, baby banana, yellow plum, pineapple, caramellized blood orange, redcurrant, wild strawberries and meet vanilla, gorse, New World Sauvignon Blanc, whipped cream, coconut, macadamia, fresh linen, latex (yes!), white pepper, ginger powder and discrete oak.

On the palate it delivers in balanced and gentle yet growing manner. The 45,6% are fine, just fill your mouth. Sour fruit compote, salty brine, exotic fruit, chocolate, kurkuma, ex-Bourbon oak, toffee, all very well-integrated. It is getting bolder by the minute and finishes big and fruity.

Drink this in bigger sips for full pleasure – rather early in a tasting session. I love its subtle details of excellence like in a fine watercolor painting. A tropical treat from the Highlands, Wooooorrrd!

Score: 91

Beschreibung: Hallo, das ist ein wahrer und typischer Ardbeg ohne jede Offnote, auf der würzig-ledrigen Seite befindlich. In der Ledertasche finden wir das Torf-Jod-Schwefel-Kombo, antiseptisches Spray, Mullbinde, BBQ-Sauce, Lagerfeuer-Rauch, Senf, schwarzen Pfeffer, Seegras, Aloe, Zitrusfrische, Milchschokolade, Latte Macchiato und Reifen. Auch gesalzenes Karamell, diverse Nüsse (v.a. Paranuss, Cashew und Macadamia), Vanille, Sägespäne und evtl. Virgin-Oak-Spuren kann man erriechen. Der Einfluss der Sherryfässer, wohl refill, wirkt nur indirekt ordnend. Klassisch und gut bisher.

Am Gaumen ändert sich aber so Einiges im Vergleich zu den Klassikern: Hier tritt er nicht schlank und süß an wie seine Artgenossen, er beißt pfeffrig zu – fast wie ein Talisker, dazu viel Holz (eher frisch wirkend, ich schätze Virgin Oak-Anteil, müsste mal nachfragen) in cremiger Textur. Definitiv Paralleluniversum Je nachdem, wie man seinen Ardbeg mag …

Wild wird dann langsam zu süß, wenn der Abgang einsetzt. Das volle Ardbeg-Aromenrad kommt wieder zum Zuge, und ja, leichte Echos der Sherrycasks sind auch da – ein schönes Finish. Die 65 Euro sind absolut fair.

Note: 88

Beschreibung: Der recht helle Tropfen ist zwar einerseits sofort als Ardbeg zu erkennen (Torf, Jod, brennender Trafo, Reifen), weicht aber im Bereich Süße deutlich ab – er präsentiert sich trockener und „baumiger“, womit gemeint ist, dass sich viele Spuren des Eichenholzes finden lassen: Würze (Chili, Pfeffer, Wasabi), Harz, Vanille, Lakritz, Weidenast, Wacholderbusch, Nussschale und Räucherkammer wären ein paar davon. Diese Holznoten sind nicht dominant, machen diesen Ardbeg aber weniger Destillat-getrieben und weniger ausbalanciert. Der Roggen gibt indirekt eine gewisse Härte, man riecht Getreidekörner, Bohnen heller Kaffeeröstung, Kreide, Gurkenglas, Teerdach, Torfrauch, Distel, Nessel, Manchego-Rinde, helle Zitrusfrüchte, Birne und Banane.

Am Gaumen tritt der Arrrrrrrdbeg eher trocken und mild für seine knapp 52% an und folgt seiner Nasen-Aromatik. Die typische schlanke Mitte dieses Destillates ist vorhanden, aber die Süße ist zurückgehalten. Vor allem Erdnüsse, Eiche, Gurkenwasser (oft in Rye-Whiskys auffindbar) Teer und Harz treten bei mittlerer Reife in den Vordergrund.

Der Nachklang wirkt zuerst klassisch, klingt jedoch weicher und schlanker bei mittlerer Länge und im holzigeren Kontext ab. Torfwärme und Jod, Kokosschale, Paranuss und Teer verbleiben im Crescendo.

Als Fazit ist festzuhalten, dass ich überrascht war, wie sehr doch die Rye-Vorbelegung einen Ardbeg verändert, ein sehr spannendes Experiment. Dieser Dram wird mit Sicherheit im Reigen diverser (Nach-) Reifungen seinen Platz und seine Freunde finden. In Deutschland ist er ab dem 09. Februar 2021 für 150 Euro erhältlich. Arrrrrrgh!

Bewertung: 87

Having been a brandy buff and collector for many years, the situation is exciting for me and our club. Slowdrink has always been focused on being open for various drink categories. We have released Brandy many years ago, I met with great producers to learn, educated people in tastings and at fairs about it and I blend products and judge ‚grape juice‘ in competitions. So finally our enthusiasm is catching on. Therefore, I forgive the lack of experience and knowledge of some newbies in this huge and difficult field for the love of many new Cognac and Brandy lovers who come from the whisky world and expect equally high standards of quality and transparency. This helps Brandy too … and it helps whisky people develop finer sensoric skills because Cognac and its brothers are way harder to differenciate.

The grape distillers did many things long before whisky producers did, and many Scotch and Irish techniques originate in France and Spain as Cognac was the main noble spirit of the world back then and for so many years – phylloxera helped other fine spirits become visible but Cognac stayed king way into the 1980s. Nowadays it lost some track in Europe, but this is about to change – if the Charente learned from mistakes and can adapt. I also see a rise in quality in Grappa, another very exciting drink distilled from pomace.

Cadenhead, LMDW, SMWS, Maltbarn, WhiskySponge and others have started to release single cask Cognac and Armagnac recently, some great, others atypical. Woody and fruity brandies like those of Vallein Tercinier become sought after because they can offer what only very expensive old Malt Whiskies render in terms of matured esters (e.g. Bowmore fruit and berries) despite not being typical. The departing from burdening tradition has negative sides to it but I like the general development to a large extent and wish that a broader variety of producers and crus will follow soon. We will also release something again in the future. Stay tuned!

Come to a tasting and learn more, e.g. rancio, boise, prune juice faking, wine choice and crus, oak differences etc. – Brandy is awesome and historical.

Our friends at Wu Dram Clan joined the crowd recently and have released a very old VT from a single cask from the renowned cru of Grand Champagne. I feel confident to test-drive this baby now:

Comment: What makes older VT great is the immense complexity. We have it here too. A mix of spicy (cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla, pepper from wood, oriental spices), fruity (crystallized fruits like apricots, plums, figs, sour cherries, apple rings and berries), floral (violets, lilac, elderflower, marigold, daisies), bitter (lemon and orange peel, Italian apero bitters) and sweet elements (white donut, sugar-coated pineapple, marzipan, marshmallow) in fine harmony boggles the mind. What a spirit, so vivid yet mature! Little to no rancio. It is slightly on the woody (hey, it is 53 years old!) and floral side on the palate at first, then the big wave of aromas follows suit. It lands so softly and mildly, more berries and cassis notes emerge. As a single cask, it has atypical and exciting moments. In comparison, the VT Hors d’Age is darker, rounder and sports quite some rancio, this version is spicier, drier and more complex, a wilder ride all in all. Hold on tight, it is a world-class Cognac that will blow you off the rocker if you like it wild and challenging!

Score: 90+

Verkostung: 4,7% weniger Alkohol also die Committee-Version, gleiches Vatting? Schwer zu sagen. Ich bin gespannt. Auf jeden Fall ist der Pinot Noir-Einfluss deutlicher als beim Committee, Kirschen und Erdbeeren, alles gut eingebunden, schnell verfliegend, dann alte trockene Holzplanke, Senfkorn, Leder, viel Rauch, Jodsüße, heißer Spielzeugeisenbahntrafo, antiseptische Pflaster, Teer, Kohle, Ruß, Tannenzapfenfeuer, mineralische Elemente (Kalk, Kreide, Muscheln), Salz, Schokolade und Kaffee, sogar Bittermandel und Vanille. Am Gaumen gewinnt er gegen die Vorversion, hier ist das Weinfassthema wirklich gut eingebunden, die Ardbeg-typische Süße bleibt erhalten und zieht sich durch bis in den mittellangen Abgang. Süffig, filigran, alle Elemente angehaucht. Der Cloudy Bay-Spätburgunder (Neuseeland) hält sich eher zurück, gibt aber positive Einflüsse und zähmt den Ardbeg bzw. sortiert ihn. Eine Schoko-Kirsch-Torte, die versehentlich auf dem Räucherofen stand. Kein Brecher, ein eleganter Altrocker in Tweet, im Ledersessel sitzend – spannend. Selten, dass die „dünnere“ Variante den Sieg holt. Ein gelungener Ardbeg, gefährlich trinkig und sicher kein schwarzes Schaf!

Bewertung: 88

Cognac 49 y.o. ‚Petite Champagne‘ 1970 – 2019, barrel, 49,2%

Comment: We don’t know the producing house but I have a hunch. It is very well-balanced, and no overboarding wood disturbs the pleasure full of nuts, plums, pineapple skin, tobacco smoke, Oyster Sauce, flowers, Asian spices, fruit cake with dried and caramellized fruits. Medium rancio though, this is more on subtleties on the lighter side – it unfolds lik an onion, give it time..it gradually becomes darker in character. medium-long finish. A high class Cognac, very typical. Not a 1960s-Bowmore-esque Berry Bomber, though (if you search for that unsusual profile).

Score: 89 – 90

Irish Single Malt 29 y.o., 1990 – 2019, barrel, 48,5%

Comment: When Irish Malts become this old, they become rare and expensive. Also did the load of older Emeralds dry recently, so this is really cool. This dram is still malty and has some wood spice to counter enormous tropical fruitiness, berries and lemongrass. Creamy, milky too, somehow: pineapple-vanilla milkshake, anyone? On the palate it plays out its strength the most: Mangos meet berries and blackcurrant. Yeah. I am a sucker for uber-fruitiness. Medium-length finish. Maybe not the best Irish from these years but certainly a great one. Got me a bottle…

Score: 91

Irish Single Malt 21 y.o., 1998 – 2019, barrel, 51,3%

Comment: A good age when usually fruitiness explodes in Irish drams. Is this in its prime yet? Yes. Wow, I like it. Bushmills 21, but more naked. Fresh and fruity, berries, vanilla, blackcurrant. All the way well-balanced, icecream topping quality. Absolutely typical, recommendation.

Score: 90 – 91

Irish Single Malt 16 y.o., 2003 – 2019, barrel, 51,9%

Comment: How does the youngest Irish contender hold its own? It is a nice example of a grassy and lemony version, discrete oak influence (spice), coconut too. Creamy, fruity, smooth, honest. Pistacchio. A good dram.

Score: 88

Littlemill 27 y.o., 1992 – 2020, hogshead, 52,3%

Comment: Thyme on roasted lamb, other Mediterranean herbs, pineapples, apple juice, Pak Choi, vanilla pod, pine cone, traces of Bourbon. Fragile and elegant all the way.

Score: 91

Secret Highland 34 y.o.,  1985 – 2019, hogshead, 47,0%

Comment: I like the pink grapefruit in this (hint – hint), nice old profile with big fruitiness and no offnote, fresh too, so spirit driven. Mangos, berries, blackcurrant, pineapple, maracuja and what not. Is there a smoked pink grapefruit? It would taste like this. Who needs distillery names

Score: 91+

Arran 17 y.o.,  2002 – 2020, Barrel, 49,2%

Comment: Spices on apples and pineapples, coconut, cappuccino froth, vanilla, peaches, Tarte Tatin, honey, pear cider, rosemary, Marshmallows, ozone, mossy brine. A fine Arran.

Score: 88+

Ben Nevis 23 y.o., 1996 – 2020, hogshead, 47,6%

Comment: Lychee sweetness, peaches, mango, herbs, roses, Alpine cheese, vanilla, apple crumble, sugar-coated nuts, honeyed malt, sandalwood candle, almost no wood. Amazing Ben Nevis from a great vintage for this distillery, fruitier than usual. Wow. This is en par with the Maltbarn release from last year which I adore as well.

Score: 92

Ledaig 25 y.o., 1995 – 2020, hogshead, 48,5%

Comment: Quite an aged Mull malt, rare indeed. The peat is secondary here, broken down into coastal aromas now. Malty, chalky, mineral, salty, briny. Air-dried ham, kiwi, peaches, melon, Atlantic seabreeze, wool, windswept sheep shack wood (sorry :)), leather, pepper. A pan of scallops deglazed with Vermouth and whisky. Aaah, this grows on you with every sip.

Score: 89+

Comment: Release the Kraaaaken! Cool label, thanks to Boris for providing me with a sample. I am a sucker for Ledaig anyway. Let’s taste: Very clear and focused, no nonsense peated Mull malt: immediately a bath of island peat, nice sweetness too, like digging herbs from wet earth. Aaah, historic shoe wax on polished Italian calf leather Oxfords, green apples and tea, pineapple, Lardo ham, stewed plums, tar and quite some chalky minerality (Loire wine). It evokes several images in my head like grey wood planks on an old windswept shed, freshly shorn sheep wool (no joke!), sea shells and Galician octopus cooking in a creamy Rias Baixas white wine reduction with herbs – high class! This is a very elegant version (compared to sister casks I had). It also shows great balance with enough power and a well-dosed oak influence that renders a seductive sweetness to the leather-peat-Island Combo. Long and complex finish that echoes the mentioned aromas and turns nicely flinty. Super choice, boys, I hadn’t expected this great quality from the stats on paper. One of the finest younger Ledaigs out there! Recommended.

Score: 90

This sample arrived late due to postal issues with Covid-19. I was so happy when it made it. Great to see an addition to Ardbeg’s core range, especially as this ‚Little Beast‘ has an age statement. The five years don’t worry me, peated whiskies are way more drinkable in younger years than normal ones. Of course, you lose some complexity but gain sheer power on the other end. However, a higher abv would be even more to my liking… but this has to fit newer palates in the market as well, so this is ok. And, forgive me, it really looks cool. The contents were taken from Bourbon and Oloroso casks, refill, I would reckon. Let’s have a dram:

Comment: Powerful and typical, extremely smoky (like thick clouds packed into a hole in the earth – quite mezcal-esque) and direct hit. No mash aroma, this is good antiseptic and peaty Ardbeg. Altogether it has a greener profile (herbs, green tea, pear, apple, Aloe, pickles) and spices are key (pepper, leather, jalapeno). It also sports chocolate, chalk, flinty sulphur, lemon dash, prosciutto ham, cold brew coffee and vanilla, even shortbread and a hint of cherry brandy. However, my beloved iodine is tuned on low. Not low on complexity, but wilder an greener than usual. On the palate you can detect the rounding-off effect of the sherry casks (well done), the Ardbeggian sweetness is there – and big smoke. Still balanced, not overpowering, not weak, just about right. Vanilla, and „welcome“, iodine, green elements, fired guns, leather and discrete old wood. Nice long finish. No monster, a good Islay Mezcal Proven: For this whisky, no weird finishes are necessary. Absolutely recommended for its price below 40 bucks.

Score: 88

Always make the best out of a situation. Isolation gave me time to taste some really nice drams after my nose was not congested anymore. My friends Boris, Martin, Dino and Maic provided me with some quarantine tipples. Thanks, guys! All of these are not expected to score low and I have heard good things, so this will be nitpicking. So without further delay, here some notes to distinguish:

Highland 36 y.o. Mancarella 1983, Hogshead 50, 47,3%

Cristallized tropical fruits (star fruit, pink grapefruit, lime, pineapple, maracuja, etc.), coconut, apple strudel, the wood is there but wonderfully discrete and adding interesting spice aromas that totally fit in (pepper, cinnamon, resin, supernice oakiness, all tuned well). It reminds me of older Springbank in moments, then it is very Tomatin-70s again, which might very well be the origin – what a combo. 91+.

Speyside Malt 46 y.o. Maltbarn 1973 – 2019, Sherry cask, 68 btl., 49,7%

Darker and sweeter in terms of wood than the predecessor, also somewhat rooty at first. Nutty, liqueurish, tropical fruits, Manuka honey, cristallized orange peel, Asian spice, dark wood, marzian It becomes brighter with time in its spectrum, peaches, pineapple, kiwi and marshmallows come to the fore. Very complex, take your time with this one. 91-.

Highland Malt 32 y.o. Maltbarn 1987 – 2019, Sherry cask, 159 btl., 49,9%

Great harmony, old sherry wood, plums, cherries, raisins, kiwi, leathery spice, dark chocolate, X-Mas-cake, nettles, tobacco. A classic profile fitting a Chesterfield club chair setting in a mahogany room. Chewy, gimme more! 91-.

Secret Speyside 24 y.o. Brothers in Malt 1995 – 2020, Bourbon Barrel 1409061, 261 btl., 52,1%

May I say the M-word? Smells just like an Easter Elchies House Malt Great fruit acidity, depth and balance, hard to grasp this fruit basket with discrete spiciness. Citrus fruits of all kind, pineapple, dried apricots, white grapes, hive, spring flowers, nutcake, roasted hazelnuts, wine gums, ginger, leather … soooo Speyside! The subtlest of smoke lingers within this harmonic dram where the oak is only traceable in secondary and tertiary aromas. High class, a sipper for all day, no offnote here. Great choice. 91.

Springbank 19 y.0. The Whisky Kingdom / Duckhammer’s 2000 – 2020, Refill Sherry Hogshead 669, 50,8%

Spicy over all, and with its typical maltiness, discrete peat in background, milky oats, Serrano ham, fresh grain, peaches and apricots (Bellini), strawberries, cherries, coconut, almonds and marzipan, salty brine, seaspray and ozone (nice coastal freshness), pepper, rubbery leather, moss, very complex, a smoky one that also lets fruit build up – there is lots going on, „Daddy like“! 91+.

Invergordon 46 y.o. Mancarella 1972, 49,2%

Pina Colada (Pineapple, coconut, cream, rum, vanilla) on speed! Typical old Invergordon, and perfect as such within its limits, sporting sweet juicy oak, catnip, mulch, fudge, cinnamon, nutmeg and  loads of maple syrup. It offers elements of the worlds of Bourbon, Rum and old Blended Whisky all in one, and White Russian. Dino’s third great Invergordon, nicely done, dude. 90+.

Clynelish 23 y.o. Maltbarn 1996 – 2020, Bourbon cask, 170 btl., 48,7%

Waxy and spicy, fruit acidity: there are aromas of leather, candles, hay, Sauvignon Blanc, then a great fruitiness breaks through (Granny Smith apples, peaches, passion fruit, pineapple, satsumas, gooseberries, plums), then persipan, beehive, ferny rocks, lime lemonade, wasabi, slight traces of darker oak bitterness as an antidote – all in excellent harmony, and highly drinkable. Plus, I love these pictures on the labels. 90.

Lochindaal (Bruichladdich) 9 y.o. Brothers in Malt 2010 – 2020, Bourbon Barrel 4337, 241 btl., 58,9%

From a rare run that is slightly peatier than Port Charlotte make. Well-dosed peat smoke still allowing complexity to come through, nice and original. Chalky minerality, kelp, fish smoker in action (yeah!), freshness of salty sea spray, resin, rubber boots, green tea, sheep shed, toffee, lime dash, roots, leather, wasabi … and sweeter than expected on the palate. A great example of a complex Islay Malt with hints of Campbeltown-esque maltiness. 90.

Caol Ila 20 y.o. Maltbarn 1999 – 2o20, Sherry cask, 118 btl., 48,9%

A dusty version (old sherry cask), interestingly different but still a typical Caol Ila (juniper in kelp, black olives), quite a lot of peat smoke, one for discovering more layers. 89.

Octomore 8 y.o.Maltbarn 2010/11 – 2020,  Bourbon and Wine casks, 43 btl., 58,3%

Read the label for more insights. A cheesy peatster, tar, seaweed, nettles and herbal weeds, dried apple rings, lemon skin, shed by the sea, leather, Virginia tobacco, smoked mackerel, sweet on palate with mentholated moments that dissolve into a peat, resin and iodine combo, loooong finish. Typical and good. 90.

Aroma: Wunderbar balancierter und typischer Neunziger-Ardbeg (sweet n‘ deep), der schon die kaktusartigen Aloe Vera-Anklänge späterer Jahre aufweist. Keine Offnote, gut, jodig-tief, würzig und vegetal (Tomatenstauden), wirklich fein und zwischen den Gegensätzen leicht und schwer wandelnd. Hauptsächlich findet man Torf, Teer, Harz, Kalk, Gerbleder, Milchschokolade, Kaffee, Ananas, Zitronenzesten und Paprikapulver. Zwar bemerkt man die Sherryanteile nicht direkt, doch indirekt verleihen sie dem Traigh Bhan Tiefe.

Geschmack: Kohlig-vegetaler Antritt, alles eher leicht, dann süßer und schwerer werdend durch Jod, Torf, Harzrauch, Teer und Leder – auch klassisch und gelungen, Ardbeg mal elegant.

Nachklang: Mittellang, erdig-torfig, stimmig. Wer auf puren und gereiften Brennereicharakter steht, mag diesen Vintage Islay. Bitte mehr davon!

Bewertung: 90

Invergordon 45 y.o. Single Grain Scotch Whisky 1972 – 2018, Bourbon barrel, 49,5%

Comment: Classic flawless grain nose, on the crossroads between rum and Bourbon, very mature: vanilla sweetness, maple syrup, marzipan, well-oaky but fits in, marshmallows, Big Red chewing gum, almonds and coconut, fudge, cardamom and nutmeg, pineapple, peach, apple juice, fruit-infused tea and fruity pipe tobacco mix, catnip. On the palate, it is quite oaky and spicy at first, then it gives room to the complexity of the nose, loooong vanilla carpet all the way into the finish.

Score: 90

Ardmore 20 y.o. Mancarella 1998, Bourbon Hogshead, 51,9%

Comment: On the farmyardy side altogether with greener fermentation notes and cheese, aroma-laden coal smoke, peat, leather, yellow apple, olives, shoe shine, flowery elements too. Nice mature palate with a sweet malty backbone, peatier than the nose with my beloved flintiness. Complex and deep.

Score: 89

Dino visits Pit

Aultmore 21 y.o. Maltbarn 1997,  50,7%

Comment: This is fruity-herbal and also juicy, very well-balanced. I am getting strawberry, cranberry, lemon, orange, macadamia-cookie, herbal infusion, and a discrete leafy bitterness in the nose. On the palate more wood Comes through (yet still within borders of good balance), but spice is clearly there.

Score: 89

Glentauchers 21 y.o. Maltbarn 1997 , 48,0%

Comment: A mild and sour-fruity dram, very typical for this underrated distillery. We have lemon and grapefruit, green tea, lemongrass, white peach, a hint of ginger and white pepper, fresh laundry, asparagus, smoked herbs and moss. It reminds me of a racy Riesling , excellent balance, too.

Score: 90

Speyside Distillery 29 y.o. Maltbarn 1989, 49,1%

Comment: This Oldie is very fruity (tropical: orange jam, passion fruit, white peach) but also has some malty sweetness, nice spices, creamy vanilla, like a baroque Palatinian Riesling – great in taste and balance, and sooo juicy!

Score: 90

Braes of Glenlivet 23 y.o. Maltbarn 1994, 48,7%

Comment: This quite rare Single Malt offers autumnal fruit and leafs, (blood) oranges, grapefruit, sour apple rings (Haribo), catnip, some flowery freshness and acidity.

Score: 88+

Glenrothes 22 y.o. Maltbarn 1996, sherry cask, 48.7%

Comment: This one is my favourite in the bunch along with the Springer, so alive and sexy with leather and spice, orange zest, cinnamon, forest honey, Stollen, raisins, a hint of sherry, perfectly balanced and enticing. Mooooreish!

Score: 90+

Springbank 15 y.o. Maltbarn 2003, sherry cask, 48,9%

Comment: Sprinbank back on top with sheer quality and great oak usage – meaty ham, salt and spice, brine, maritime wind, cookies, brighter and darker fruits (peach, warmth of earth, plums, raisins, redcurrant), Parmigiano Reggiano and blue cheese. Tasty stuff.

Score: 91-

Caol Ila 14 y.o. Maltbarn 2004, 53,7%

Comment: A typical Caol Ila in the right age, very herbal, great palate and a very long finish. Good Islay quaffer!

Score: 88

Wir bringen unseren Klassiker nach München. Zu bestem Preis-Leistungsverhältnis erlebt ihr hier ein Traum-Whiskyseminar, das sowohl Neulinge als auch Kenner voll befriedigt. Viel Wissenswertes rund um das Thema Whisky, verschiedene Fassreifungen, Regionen, Altersstufen und Stile, Tipps und Rohstoffe sind in ca. acht ‚Drams‘ zu erleben. Alles im Edutainment-Stil (Spaß, Kult und Wissen), locker moderiert von zwei slowdrink-Experten, die tiefste Passion für das ‚water of life‘ haben. Mit Herz eben. Die Whiskys sind auch nichts von der Stange, wir legen Wert auf das Besondere – sie stammen aus dem Keller von Whiskyguru Pit Krause (Raritäten, Geheimtipps, Top Daily Drams usw.), der das Lineup zusammenstellt (69,90 Euro Unkosten inkl. Snack und zwei Cocktails)

Anmeldung: info@slowdrink.de

Pit Krause beim BR

The 22 y.o. is from spring 1996 and was matured in Bourbon barrels only. I hope it can stand up to a wonderful Cadenhead Ardbeg with similar stats we recently had. Let’s taste it:

Comment: I had it on three occasions and it presented itself slightly different each time. Overall, it is a soft and sweeter Ardbeg, one for big sips, not too loud, very rounded, a dram for the second helping. Give it time and it will reward you. It brings old as well as new Ardbeg character to the table, a real mix that is not as „beasty“ as usual, more on the fruity side of things. However, it has the classic profile in its DNA, but if you are into pressure on your palate, this isn’t for you. It starts on coal, sweet smoke, vanilla, freshly sawn firs, Mezcal, Granny Smith apples, green tea with bitter elements, tar, kiwi, lemon drop, chalk and white pepper – plus the peat, tar, burnt trafo and iodine. All that is balanced and shy. On the mild palate, leather and apples take center stage, chalk and peat meet fruits. It is complex and tightly woven together, discrete, no powerhouse but one to drink another glass. Maybe it is easy to miss and tired in moments, but I like it for its special character and smooth style.

Score: 89/90

Glenrothes 10 y.o. The Shining Dram, from butt, 52,9%

Comment: I call this a greenhouse dram. I am getting floral elements, linseeds, orchard fruit (pear, apple, cider), green grapes, tomato plants, wet malt, pistachio, lemon zest and white pepper. All is in balance and a typical dram for ist age. Water opens it up a little more.

Score: 84

Glenrothes 20 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 51,5%

Comment: This older version is wonderfully fruity (already esters of tropical fruits like passion fruit, but also orchard apple, Haribo’s sour apple rings and orange zest). There also is a fresh mintiness. The dram is a great combo between sour fruit elements and woody spices with vanilla. Although the oak is a bit loud, the oily mouthfeel and apricot fruit reward the drinker manifold.

Score: 87

Ben Nevis 19 y.o. The Shining Dram, from Bourbon hogshead, 48,6%

Comment: To start with, this is one of the most unusual drams I ever had, hence very Ben Nevis (which I like). Yes, an awkward mix awaited me but it is very interesting and mind-boggling. It will find its lovers and haters. The spectrum of aromas consists of hazelnut bush, cereals, mashy youthfulness, canned coffee milk, sheep stable and ewe’s cheese, fresh paint, coal, cocoa powder and Indian curried pickles. On the palate it is a wild ride in unusual terrain of old wooden planks, persipan, and all of the above. Cool yet crazy. Give it a try!

Score: 87

Auchroisk 24 y.o. The Shining Dram, from Bourbon hogshead, 43,5%

Comment: A summer breeze high in the Alps, this is the headline here, Fragile but so complex and lovely. Great balance and maturity, floral lightness, like a summer wind in a flower dress on an ‚Alm‘. We also have fruitiness (kiwi, strawberry, Austrian apricot), coconut, iron, grass and vanilla cream. Very elegant and a must-have for fans of this profile. Big sips recommended.

Score: 90+

Blended Malt 23 y.o. The Shining Dram, from sherry hogshead, 51,1%

Comment: X-Mas cake (‚Christstollen‘ soaked), very juicy – the sherry is perfectly integrated and not dry, which is rare at this high intensity. Rumtopf, raisins, figs, cherries, blackberries, cinnamon, orange zest, dark Wood – all in balance and full expression. Stunner!

Score: 90+

Orkney Single Malt 12 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 50,6%

Comment: Give this one time and it will rock your world. Starts youthful and with great balance, then it becomes more mature. Mossy river, peaty Highland floor with heather, herbs, ozone, black pepper, juniper, sloe berry, hazelnut shrub, sweet malt, Turkish delight, white chocolate, litchi, kurkuma, olive oil and more. It tastes wonderful and manages to combine two worlds: lightness yet being heavily loaded with aromas. The malty sweetness and complexity in coastal style is breathtaking. Buy!

Score: 90

Caol Ila 10 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 53,3%

Comment: A typical example, and a nice one too. Like a walk in a mediterranean olive grove with a glass of Islay Whisky. Oven fire gone out with spent coal, juniper, olives, resin, licorice, fishing boat (ropes, kelp, fish, seashell minerality, peat, ozone, green tea and Lemon chicken. On the palate it is well-balanced, spirit driven and naked, enticing! Flintiness joins in as well as a sweet oily maltiness. Pure Islay with finesse!

Score: 89

Overall, I am quite impressed with this debut. Well picked, Markus!

You can get these drams, prices and pictures on the website: www.theshiningdram.com

Zum Ardbeg Day am 2. Juni bringt die Kultbrennerei wieder eine witzige Sonderabfüllung auf den Markt, die zuvor als fassstarkes Committee-Bottling wenigen Glücklichen vorgestellt worden war, der Grooves. Dieser im Sinne eines englischen Wortspiels an die 1960s angelehnte Ardbeg verdankt seinen Namen eigentlich den Rillen (engl. ‚grooves‘), die bei den verwendeten Eichenfässern das Flächenauflageverhältnis Holz-Destillat, und damit den Reifungseffekt, vergrößern sollen. Dies geschah bei der Jack Daniel’s Sinatra Edition auch schon, die für diesen Ardbeg verwendeten Fässer sollen aber stark getoastete Rotweinfässer gewesen sein. Abgefahrenes Rezept aus Hippiehirnen (verzeih mir, Dr. Bill) – hier ist ein ‚cask-driven‘ Whisky zu erwarten, der vom normalen Ardbeg ein wenig abweichen wird.

Tasting Note: In der Nase ist dieser Dram zuerst deutlich als Ardbeg zu erkennen (Torf, Jod, Trafobrand, Barbecuesauße, Lagerfeuer, Speck, Reifen, Sattelfett etc., vgl. viele der auf unserer Seite verkosteten Ardbeg-Abfüllungen), doch es gibt Abweichungen, die sich mit der Zeit verdeutlichen: Der Grooves liegt eher auf der holzigen Schreinerwerkstattseite und wirkt süßlich, die Toastung addiert Rußaromen. Nach ein wenig Zeit im Glas geht er ab wie Jimi Hendrix in Woodstock, man nimmt erhitzte Gewürze wahr (edelsüßer Paprika, Zimt, Pfeffer), bittere Kräuter, Pinienrauch harzigen Charakters, rote Äpfel, rote Johannisbeere und Leder steigen auf. Mit der Zeit wird er immer ungewöhnlicher und wie ein ‚crafted spirit‘ moderner Art, man kann sogar Granatapfelkerne, bitteren Apertif (Martini), Wermut, Orangenlikör und Pampelmusenschale erriechen. 

Der Geschmack, der bei Ardbeg meist ins Süße mit Schokolade und Espressonoten sowie Jod geht, ist hier leicht, bitterkrautig-likörig und weich („mellow“) ausgeprägt – fast wie ein torfiger Aperol Spritz mit Bitterorange in manchen Momenten, dabei stets trockener werdend. Auch englische Marmelade, lauter werdendes Eichenholz und die typischen Ardbegnoten finden sich im Hintergrund, der rußige Rauch bleibt bis zum Ende.

Fazit: Very groovy, das muss man diesem mutigen Experiment lassen. Für Ardbeg-Puristen ist er vielleicht nicht geeignet, aber wer einmal ein anderes Gesicht dieser Brennerei kennenlernen will, ist hier genau richtig. The Sixties were experimental times, right? Open your mind, klebt die Prilblumen-Aufkleber und füllt das Glas mit diesem leicht rötlich-braunen Islay-Blumenkind, das für mich der Ardbeg Spritz für den lauen Sommerabend in der Kommune ist. Ein Fun-Dram, der auch gut in die Jahreszeit passt!

Happy Ardbeg Day und danke Tobias für das Sample.

Score: 86+

Nose: The An Oa stats on  green notes of agave (Mezcal-esque), herbs (fennel, oregano, thyme), green tea (nettles), mint (catnip), anis and lime zest that meet the classic peaty Ardbeg profile. The focus is on tar, resin, a sweet peat-iodine-soot-combo, leather, quite some cocoa, roasted coffee beans, dates, chalk, oak and toffee. It somehow smells more liqueur-like than other Ardbegs, but it is clearly spirit-driven.

Palate: Great balance, classic Ardbeg, but more civilized, streamlined and quaffable. This plays on the lighter and sweeter side of Islay. For a change I am getting mossy green earth, vanilla and apple-hickory-BBQ-smoke that joins the world of Ardbeg. Well-made, this subtle yet ardbeggy dram.

Finish: Medium length and very pleasant, this unifies contrasts of wild and mild, of elegance and intensity. Introduce people to Ardbeg with this one.

Score: 85

Die Geschmacksbeschreibung und die Botanicals sollen an eine Bergwiese im Sommer erinnern (Arnika, Silberdistel, Frauenmantel, Bergkräuter). Als Kind der Alpen kenne ich diese Gerüche … bin gespannt:

Beschreibung: Ohne die guten Notes des Herstellers kopieren zu wollen stimme ich in großen Teilen zu. Ein insgesamt klassischer Dry Gin, jedoch mit viel „Terroir“. Die deutlichsten Aromen sind tatsächlich Bergwiese (warmes Heu, Trockenblumen, Almblüte) und Limette, dazu etwas Bergamotte, Salbei, Pfeffer und Honig. Der Wacholder spielt zurückhaltend im Hintergrund, helle Geruchsfarben prägen das Bild. Am Gaumen ist der Gin eher leicht süßlich und sehr weich, mild-wärmend mit dezenter Würze. Orange Limette, Kamille, Wacholder, Rosmarin, Almwiese, die ganze Heidi in akzeptabler Balance. Den vom Hersteller als mächtig bezeichneten Nachklang ist eher von mittlerer Länge und sehr rund, es klingt warmes Bergheu und Wacholder in feinen Wellen an. Insgesamt gutes Mittelfeld mit Bonuspunkten für Originalität und Regionalität, das Thema ist top umgesetzt. Wer es weich und alpin liebt, ist hier genau richtig. Mir fehlt etwas Druck und Balance am Gaumen, doch das ist immer Geschmackssache. Ein spannendes Produkt ist dieser Eidgenosse auf jeden Fall. Probieren!

Bewertung: 86

Comment: Hooray, it doesn’t lose to its stronger brother, the dilution added great balance yet doesn’t weaken the impact on the palate considerably. This is quite a typical Ardbeg with deep notes of peat and iodine, burnt trafo and tires and all that Kildalton jazz. What sets it apart are peanuts and crushed nuts of all kind and a mezcalesque quality that isn’t too greenish. It appears mature and all notes are in place, no offs. Slender on the palate, then becoming huge in the finish which turns wonderfully sooty with my beloved smoke of children’s firecrackers in a peat-firing neighborhood. A real successful bottling.

Score: 90

Blended Malt ‚very old‘ Whisky-Fässle bottled 2016, sherry butt, 45,4%

Comment: Loved the last one, hope this can keep up. The nose reveals dry sherry wood, garden fruit and exotic fruit (esp. pineapple), cocoa, ginger, pepper, licorice, resin and soaked gingerbread cake (if that exists). On the palate it shifts into higher gear, really impressive and classic in style. Old polished sherry malt style that reminds me oft he biggest names in Speyside with a hint of Orkney. Juicy stuff that keeps you sipping because the finfish is soooo classy.

Score: 90

Cragganmore 27 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1989 – 2016, sherry butt, 48,7%

Comment: This one is adored by quite some friends and I also find Cragganmore underrated but not all bottlings of this herbal malt are great. This specimen is the Amaro (an Italian Bitter) among Craggies, herbal healing. It also reminds me of a walk in the forest with a basket of apples and a flower bouquet. I also has nutty elements (even pistacchio), beech leafs, bark, nettles, green tea, honey, agave (yes, it has tequila-esque moments), yuzu and orange zest. The palate is mature and unusual, great old oak, sherry-style, yet teaish green, wow. Orange, apples, apricots, licorice, vanilla and fallen leafs. A long finish rewards the drinker. Different and hard to score, maybe I am at the low end of this one.

Score: 89 (some might go higher here)

Fine Tennessee Whiskey 5y.o. Whisky-Fässle 2011 – 2016, barrel, 51,4%

Comment: Clearly a Dickel from Tullahoma (I lived close many years ago) with rye in the mash bill. Complex sweet oak elements meet maple syrup, nuts and marzipan. Very more-ish.

Score: 88

Caol Ila 10 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 2006 – 2017,for Whisky Klubben Maltes Vänner hogshead, 53,6%

Comment: My favourite from this batch – which I wouldn’t have expected from the sheer facts on the label. This is so pure, clean and spirit-driven, it hurts. Classic profile with juniper, olive oil, moss, coal gas, big lemon drop, green apples, gunpowder tea, soot and ashes along with peat, resin and tar. The palate is powerful and very well-balanced. Expressive purity! Amazing spirit. Islay holiday at the first sip.

Score: 90

Mannochmore 28 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1988 – 2016, hogshead, 46,0%

Comment: Another cool pick, I must say. Wonderfully old-school with a metallic edge. I am getting leather, peaches and stone fruits, orange zest, quince, lemons. Behind that there are nougat whiffs, mild chili and slightly bitter old oak elements that fit very well. It tastes very complex and much fruitier than expected. It is an example of a solid and complete malt.

Score: 90

Unter folgendem Link finden Sie eine Vielzahl an spannenden Verkostungen, Proben, Seminare, Events und mehr:

–> zu unseren Tastings (Gutscheine erhältlich)

                                              (klicken)

INFORMATIONEN ZU UNS / TERMINE:

Unvergessliche Momente – zahlreiche Referenzen

Unsere preisgekrönten Verkostungen in Sachen Whisky, Whiskey, Rum, Cognac und co finden seit fast 20 Jahren im Sinne des non-profit-Gedankens statt und finden immer mehr Liebhaber. Bei uns geht jeder Cent in die zu probierenden Spirituosen und es gibt keinen Verkauf oder inkompetenten Eventagentur-Mist. Die Spirituose und das Wissen sowie die Sensorik stehen im Zentrum – deshalb begeistern wir vom Beginner zum Experten und haben uns zum größten Veranstalter für Tastings entwickelt. Ca. 80 Verkostungen finden pro Jahr statt. Verpflichtungen gibt es keine, jeder kann teilnehmen.

Kompetenz und Authentizität

Bei uns moderieren anerkannte Experten und Autoren, bekannt aus dem TV und den Medien, mit viel Herzblut und Passion. Die Drinks (auch atemberaubende Raritäten) stammen mitunter aus Pit Krauses bekannter Sammlung. Als deutscher Vertreter der Malt Maniacs stellt er die Verkostungen zusammen und leitet die meisten Veranstaltungen. Hierbei teilt er auch seine Erfahrungen als Whisky- und Rumhersteller, Blendmaster, Mitglied in diversen Verkostungsjurys und weltweiter Berater. Die Verköstigungen sind ‚edutainment‘, also viel Wissenswertes gepaart mit Spaß. A real Masterclass!

Gerne können Sie vergleichen, wir haben seit Jahren nie enttäuscht und sind in der Spirituosenszene anerkannt als impulsgebender Club, der allen offen steht. Bei uns bekommen Sie mehr Whisky, Rum und Wissen für Ihr Geld und werden unabhängig informiert. Dieses hohe Niveau ist uns wichtig, wobei auch die Freude und der Spaß nicht zu kurz kommen dürfen. Insiderwissen über Bottlings und Trends sind garantiert. Slowdrink ist der Dachverband diverser Whisky- und Spirituosenclubs in Europa mit besten Kontakten zu Brennern, Küfnern und der Barszene. Unsere Single Malt- und Rhum-Kompetenz wird Sie begeistern.

Verschiedene Events in ganz Bayern – und bald im Whisky- und Spirituosenmuseum

Unsere Seminare, Tastings und Dinner finden in ganz Bayern und darüber hinaus statt, vorwiegend aber in Regensburg, München, Augsburg, Nürnberg / Erlangen sowie in Kelheim. Neben diesen Veranstaltungen gibt es gelegentlich niveauvolle Junggesellenabschiede, Geburtstagsfeiern und Firmenevents (Weihnachtsfeier einmal anders), die wir gerne nach Ihren Wünschen ausrichten können. Unser Zentrum ist die Region Oberpfalz / Niederbayern sowie Oberbayern, doch auch Schwaben und Franken buchen uns regelmäßig.

Beispielsweise haben wir im Bergwerk, auf der Walhalla, in der historischen Tram, der Jurte, der Mühle, auf dem Strudlschiff, in der Sternwarte und dem High-End Hi-Fi-Studio, bei diversen Köchen oder in Schlössern und Havana-Bars verkostet oder sog. Whisky Walks durchgeführt. Schottische Brennereien (Ardbeg, Lagavulin) haben bei uns Ihre Jubiläen gefeiert und Weltpremieren vorgestellt. Stets versuchen wir, etwas Einzigartiges zu bieten.

Bald wird auch ein weltweit einmaliges Museum mit ca. 7.000 Flaschen Whisky, Rum, Cognac etc. entstehen, worin auch Tastings stattfinden sollen.

Sehen Sie auch unseren youtube-Kanal und unsere facebook-Seite sowie die Galerie ein, um einen Eindruck zu bekommen. Die Bilder sprechen für sich. Kommen Sie zum Original, bevor Sie enttäuscht werden. Googeln Sie us – hier ist am meisten geboten. Wir freuen uns auf Sie!

Beste Grüße,

Ihr Peter ‚Pit‘ Krause.

Übersicht über kommende Veranstaltungen 2018 (auch als Geschenkgutscheine): siehe Veranstaltungen (oben)

Anmeldung / Gutscheine über die email-Adresse:

info@slowdrink.de

oder per Telefon (0160-1768777, am besten abends)

Comment: It is like comparing a hamburger with a cheeseburger. Basically we have the same aromas in the nose, but one has a bit more depth. Guess which – the cask strength version – but the difference is rather narrow. A typical Ardbeg without any offnote, old-style with bitumen, soot, peat, iodine, leather, white pepper and chili, mustard seed, tires after a burnout, coffee, nettles, plums and such, still spirit-driven but the sherry casks render a nice and fitting addition with dark allusions . The little brother can hold its own, it has just a bit less intensity (esp. in terms of leather and iodine). Kudos, Ardbeg – recommended!

Score: 89

Tobermory 20 y.o. maltmountains 1995 – 2015, hogshead, 48,4%

Comment: The nose reminds me of a breakfast near cow stables – hints of muesli, green tea, nutella, wholegrain bread, fennel, cumin, cinnamon, canned apricots and pears, ginger and ginger bread, and also a whiff of, well, manure pile (in a good way) … Serge calls this ‚farmyardy‘ – same idea. As Bavarian boys this makes us feel at home   The palate is way different, which I always like: very round, coastal, briny, discrete peat and earth a la Garioch (no smoke though), and so quaffable, darn good. A long finish leaves you wanting another shot. Still available for 125.- Euro.

Score: 89

Speyside Region 20 y.o. 1994 – 2015, sherry cask, 52,4%

Comment: What a muscular and big dram. Powerful, spicy, well-sherried. The spicy part consists of chili, wasabi and tanned leather. The sherry adds dark chocolate, cherries, plums and aniseed. I am also getting reminiscences of old dusty library shelves. The palate is very much the same but the wine adds a nice layer of complexity to the combo. I liked to tame it with a dash of water, but if you prefer it heavy, neat is fine. 124.- Euro.

Score: 87

Oliver also has a 20 y.o. Glen Keith which scratches the 90-points-mark (had it only passing by at a fair). Great value there, as well.

Folgende Verkostungen sind als Gutschein erhältlich (weitere Termine werden noch folgen):

                  – Preise sind reine Unkosten (non-profit) –

– 19. März: Nacht der Genüsse (Obertraubling, im Airport): Messestand

– 08. April: Whisky-Seminar in der Jurte (Kelheim) – www.dasfeuerherz.de

– 09. April: Rum-Seminar in der Jurte (Kelheim) – www.dasfeuerherz.de

– 16. April: Whisky-Tasting in Augsburg (49,90 Euro)

– 23. April: Top-Malts auf dem Strudelschiff auf der Donau – Kult und feinste Drams, DAS Highlight 2016 – wir cruisen mit der ‚Siebnerin‘ (ggf. überdacht) die Donau auf und ab und drammen dabei Edelstoffe, also nur das Feinste und Raritäten aus der Whiskywelt (Regensburg, mit Folk n‘ Country-Band, 128.- Euro)

– 01. Mai (München): Rum-Tasting in der Havana-Bar – die bedeutendste Rumverkostung Süddeutschlands in passendem Ambiente, purer Kult und immer schnell ausverkauft! Mit Raritäten, neuen Trends, Spitzenrums und viel Rumwissen, dazu Spaß und 2 Cocktails (München, 16 – 20 Uhr, 69,90 Euro)

– 04. – 06. Mai: Regensburger Craft Bier Festival 2016 (Neupfarrplatz)

– 17. Juni (Nördlingen): Event ‚No bullshit allowed‘ – Mega-Malts, only: Pit Krause wird hier absolute Topstoffe, Raritäten und Specials kredenzen, mit gewohnt viel Information, Spaß und Kult (99,90 Euro Unkosten). Erleben! Hier vorab mehr Infos: https://www.facebook.com/events/1695356654042989/

– 24. Juni (Regensburg):  200 Jahre Lagavulin (mit Markenbotschafter Thomas Plaue und Pit Krause, die legendäre Bottlings der Brennerei und Neuheiten/Premieren öffnen, dazu Specials und Foodpairing, evtl. in einer Mühle; es sind wohl die alte 12 white label, 30y.o. und 21 y.o. oder so ähnlich feine Drams am Start)

– 08. Juli: Whisky-Seminar (Regensburg) – unser Klassiker mit viel Wissenswertem, Trends, Raritäten, moderiert von Pit Krause (19 Uhr: 49,90 Euro)

– 09. Juli (Regensburg): Spitzenweinverkostung bei Pit (halbjährlich lassen wir uns die feinsten Tropfen der Weinwelt schmecken, in lockerer Atmosphäre mit dennoch vielen Infos und besonderen Eindrücken – nur High End)

– 10. September (München): Dram in a Tram – High End-Whiskys bei Fahrt in historischer Tram mit Kult-Stadtführer Rainer Blumer und Malt Maniac Pit Krause (115.- Euro)

– diverse Dinner und Events im Herbst, auch Ultimate Craft Bier-Tasting, etc.

_______________________

Gerne beraten wir Sie, welche Veranstaltung am besten passt (e-mail an ‚info@slowdrink.de‘ oder Tel.: 0160-1768777).

Weitere Whisky- und Rumverkostungen in Regensburg, München, Augsburg, Nördlingen, Kelheim, Nürnberg, Erlangen, Straubing etc. finden Sie hier in Kürze. Um auf dem Laufenden zu bleiben, am besten den Newsletter abonnieren (info@slowdrink.de) und uns bei facebook ‚liken‘ !

Alle Termine finden Sie hier.

Wir freuen uns auf Ihre Teilnahme und die Chance, Sie für unsere Passion zu begeistern,

Ihr Peter ‚Pit‘ Krause M.A. (info@slowdrink.de)

Die letzten Feiern nahmen sich entweder ein Thema (Whisky, Craft Beer, Rum, Cognac/Brandy, Wein, begleitende Speisen, etc.) in seiner ganzen Tiefe vor oder mischten, damit für alle Teilnehmer etwas dabei war. Diese durchweg sehr schönen Abende waren stets kurzweilig, lustig und brachten unserer Sache wiedereinige neue Interessenten. Dabei arbeiten wir non-profit.

Vielleicht ist so ein Event mit Niveau und edutainment auch etwas für Ihren Anlass – sprechen Sie mit uns (auch die Dauer und die Location wären flexibel, evtl. auch im Whiskymuseum, einer privaten Bar oder der Kochschule). Es moderiert immer ein Experte, der mit Herzblut in seinem Feld unterwegs ist und besondere Tropfen kredenzt, die Sie begeistern werden.

Hier ein paar Impressionen:

Caol Ila 10 y.o. Gordon & Macphail 2005 – 2015 for McWhisky, Bourbon Hogshead, 223 btl., 56,4%

Comment: Very austere and clean at first, wonderfully spirit-driven. The main aromas aside from medium-intense peat and discrete sulphur are apple skins, freshly tanned suede, olive oil, pepper and chili, juniper, camphor, coal and lemon zest. I am also getting more etherial elements like thyme, rosemary, burning mountain pine needles. Almost no wood here. In second row there are chalk, pear schnaps, ozone and coal gas, green tea and grapefruit. Now let’s taste this really complex dram: wow, it has a Talisker-esque pepper-catch, hot stuff like a peated chili. The coal turns sooty in the mouth. It is good, but water makes it great – it renders more complexity and balance, fruit, chalk and more, in fact, it becomes less Caol Ila, more like a mix between Ardbeg and Bowmore. Great length in a wonderful finish that leaves you asking for another glass. A great pick by Daniel Kamm and the McWhisky-Team – exemplary Islay!

Score: 84 / 86 with water

Burnside 24 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1989 – 2014, Hogshead, 51,1%

Comment: This one noses like a Riesling Auslese from the Mosel area. Overall, there is minerality and a fruity sourness with grapefruit, passion fruit, pineapple, peaches and citrus-like aromas (tangerine), all this in good maturity (dextrose starting to unfold). Traces of coconuts, almonds and balancing spice (chili, white pepper) complete the nose. It tastes like the nose, very round, then it adds floral compounds and malt. The finish is long on vanilla and lovely fruit, only the oak leaves a little woody bitterness I could do without – but that is the only ‚flaw‘, so to speak, and maybe a personal thing.

Score: 89+

Littlemill 23 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1990 – 2014, Hogshead, 51,2%

Comment: Many bloggers embraced this already legendary Littlemill and scored high – I can follow, wow, what a dram, although it isn’t above many other killers from there, it is right on spot with them. Littlemill is amazing. I keep this shorter: grapefruit, lime, lemon, aprcot jam, gooseberry, wine gum, green tea, marzipan and almonds, cake glace and what not, accompanied by big vanilla, creme brulee, white chocolate and a hint of oak, all in great balance. A must-have for Littlemill fans.

Score: 91

Irish Malt 10 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 2003 – 2014, Hogshead, 49,5%

Comment: Not sure where this is from, Jens doesn’t know either, he said. Let’s nose: A fruity, sour and grassy aroma with big toffee and fudge, tinned pears, Thai curry soup wine gums and Haribo peaches (sorry), lemons, gooseberries, elderflower, grass, hay, white pepper, oak and vanilla at first. Then pistacio, almonds, honeysuckle, apple juice and more. It has moments when it reminds me of ‚orange wine‘ (Sauvignon Blanc). It tastes just like that, nice.

Score: 87

Ben Nevis 18 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1996 – 2014, Hogshead, 50,8%

Comment: I love Ben Nevis with its funky and unusual profile – and this one is really one of the best ones that were released in the recent past. It takes you along on a walk in the forest (pine needles, resin, earth, ferns, etc.) and adds various citrus fruits and grapefruit, curry, milk chocolate and a splendid acidity that balances everything to perfection. A fat Ben Nevis, gentle though. My recommendation!

Score: 90+ (on a personal level, maybe 91)

Tomatin 17 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1997 – 2014, Hogshead, 48,3%

Comment: Somehow an old style Tomatin a la 5/10 y.o. from the 1970ies (I prefer the 5) with licorice, garden fruit pits, apples, white peach, pineapple, summer earth, leather and pepper plus the wonderful Tomatin maltiness. It continues to be a classic und old fashioned whisky in good balance.

Score: 89-

Diamond Demerara Rum 10 y.o.  2003 – 2014, Barrel, 51,1%

Comment: Rum is on the rise and now in style more than years before, deservedly so. This Guyana specimen (I think it is Jens‘ second rum) has all the typical features of this still but lacks the power on the palate to be great. It is good though, a good starter for getting into heavier rums.

Score: 85

Ein buntes Panel trat an

(aber nicht immer) mit einer vogelwilden Marketing-Geschichte vertrieben wird… und eine Spirituose, an der viele Brenner nicht mehr vorbeikommen. So vielfältig wie die Stories der Vermarkter sind auch die Gins. Von tief, gelungen und geheimnisvoll komplex bis hin zu flach und seltsam reicht die Tragweite, trocken bis süß, so wie die Aufmachungen der Flaschen. Genossen als purer ’sipping Gin‘ oder als Tonic-Partner, im Cocktail, etc. (wo sie völlig unterschiedlich abschneiden), das Feld ist weit. London Dry, Bavarian Dry, compound, distilled, aged, mit zahllosen Botanicals (auch hier ist sehr viel Spielraum, die Ansetzung, biologischer Anbau, die Anzahl, …), der Fantasie sind keine Grenzen gesetzt, doch gerade das macht Gin interessant, aber auch schwer vergleichbar in seiner weiten Kategorie. Wie beim Würzen in der Küche ist Vieles Geschmacksache, solange das Grundprodukt stimmt – das aus diversen Getreiden oder Kartoffeln bestehen kann. Also wie vergleichen? Wir entschieden uns für einheimische distilled Gins ohne Fassreife.

Ein paar Gins der Verkostung

Wir – das war ein Panel aus drei Brennern (Stefan Penninger, Gregor Schraml und Johannes Anleitner), zwei Bloggern/Verkostern (Initiator Philip Reim und meine Wenigkeit), Barleuten, Händlern und Endverbrauchern. Da wir alle aus verschiedenen Blickwinkeln auf das Produkt schauen, war die Diskussion im Vorfeld höchst anregend und auf hohem Niveau. Das Feld wurde hinreichend geklärt und für Wohlgefühl sorgte unser Gastgeber Goose in der Wunderbar (Regensburg).

Die Gins wurden pur und in Ruhe verkostet und gelegentlich auch als Tonic oder Cocktail ausprobiert. Unglaublich waren die Unterscheide in dieser schon von uns auf einheimische distilled Gins eingegrenzte Kategorie. Auch die Geschichten um die Marken reichten von sympathisch nüchtern über historisch interessant (Schramls ‚Kaiser Hill 16‘ und Penningers ‚Granit Gin‘ und die Info vom ständigen Diebstahl des beigefügten Granit-Kühlsteins in Märkten) bis hin zu völligem Marketing-Bullshit (I Dream of Gini), der nur nach einer oder zwei Flaschen Genuss des eigenen Produktes entstanden sein konnte.

„Botanicals“ für Gin

Im Geschmack taten sich ebenfalls große Unterschiede auf- So schmeckte ein Gin so künstlich nach destilliertem Maoam und Gummibaum, ein anderer gab sogar Räucherfisch-Aromen von sich, wieder ein anderer zeigte klare Obstlernoten – doch das waren eher negative Ausreißer. Der Großteil bestand aus anständigen und gelungenen, ja auch originellen Produkten, die ihren berechtigten Platz im Markt haben. Mehr dazu, v.a. zu Schraml und Penninger folgt in einem eigenen Artikel. Denn diese beiden Brenner aus Ostbayern, bei denen die Ginproduktion bzw. zumindest die Benutzung von Botanicals seit ewigen Zeiten Tradition hat und nicht nur ein Aufspringen auf den Ginzug darstellt, fielen uns neben dem Horsetown Gin positiv auf – vielleicht auch, weil die Produzenten vor ort waren. Doch diese Regionalität, und Abgeklärtheit spiegelte sich in den Produkten, und während der Verkostung hielt uns nichts von neutraler Betrachtung ab. Interessanterweise waren wir uns größtenteils einig.

Meine persönliche Reihenfolge möchte ich Euch nicht vorenthalten (bei ein paar Gins nenne ich Auszüge meiner Tasting Notes, die ich alle irgendwann in Gänze poste):

1. Horsetown Gin (Achtung: Batches variieren wegen Wechsel in Inhaltsstoffen und Produktionsarten) – toller Gin mit einem Hauch Beeren (Preiselbeeren), wenig Wacholder, dafür Zwetschgen, Marille, Orangenschale, Kamille, Fruchtbonbon, Majoran, fett und und ungefiltet, breit in Basis, weniger Kopfnoten, eigen. 84 Punkte.

und

1. Windspiel Gin – trotz einer etwas eigenwilligen Marketinggeschichte ist dies ein richtig toller Gin, ein kräftiger Macho mit 47%, was nicht jeder mochte. Schöne Nase mit Wacholder, schwarzem Pfeffer, Zitrone, Tajine-Gerichte (Gewürzvielfalt) etc., der alkoholisch-säurelastige Antritt liefert kräftig ab, und auch Schokoladennoten sind nun dabei. 84 Punkte.

3. Granit Gin (Penninger) – mild und doch aromatisch, klassisch angelegt, ein Hauch Gurke, Wurzeln, florale Töne, Zitronenabrieb, bunter Pfeffer, Gerbleder und Muskatnuss. Rundum angenehm. 83 Punkte, ebenso feel! Gin und The Duke Gin.

6. Kaiser Hill 16 (Schraml – sehr klassisch und einfach gut) und Ferdinand’s Gin (Saar, traubig-weiblich, angenehm anders) – 81 Punkte.

8. Monkey 47 Gin – 80 Punkte.

9. Bavarka Gin (mild, eigen, hopfig-harzig, Fichtenspitzen, Steckerlfisch, Zitrone, bayerisches Volksfest) und Simon Gin (untypisch, eher Obstler, aber doch gut)

10. Gin Sul (es fehlt zwar an Tiefe, doch er hat was: mild, weiblich, Orange und Bergamote, Sandelholz, Rosmarin, Vanille, etwas Zucker; er erinnert in Momenten an das Parfum ‚Fahrenheit‘ von Dior – noch solide)

11. Lyonel Gin, Secret Treasures (letzterer außer Konkurrenz, beide akzeptabel)

12. Elephant Gin (etwas alkoholisch und undefiniert, es fehlt an Balance, sehr floral-parfümiert, Säure weißer Pfeffer, Zitrone – mit leichten Schwächen noch akzeptabel)

13. I Dream of Gini – pur sehr seltsam und abgeschlagen, aber witzig als Tonic

Glen Spey 25 y.o. Archives 1988 – 2014, Bourbon Hogshead 356079, 163 btl., 47,3%

Comment: On the nose the motto is ‚white oak meets fruit basket‘ filled with apple, pineapple and peaches (also like Haribo sweets). Turkish delight, hazelbush branches and creamy vanilla (like a pudding) join in. It is very mild and balanced on the palate, the oak is less loud than expected. Berries and peaches display maturity and lead the way towards a medium length finish.

Score: 89

Glen Keith 21 y.o. Archives 1992 – 2014, Bourbon Barrel 120599, 218 btl., 51,5%

Comment: This one holds back at first, but after a little time it unfolds. It seems a bit reduced at first, but the quality of this creme brulee dram is high – as always with Glen Keith. No other distillate translates Bourbon cask aromas so well into the Scottish realm these days. Over all, a typical but shy Glen Keith (compare to our other reviews) with a long finish.

Score: 89

Bunnahabhain 23 y.o. Archives 1990 – 2014, Sherry butt 52, 201 btl., 47,9%

Comment: My favourite dram of the bunch and a real stunner. Archives had great releases of Bunnahabhain so far but this one beats them easily – not another raisiny over-sherried Bunna from treated casks, this one stands out! In general, Bunnahabhain still is an underrated distillery with many great affordable bottlings around – and this release is the perfect example: It reminds me a bit of old Macallan with mahogany wood, maraschino cherry, orange zest, Christmas cake with rum and port, traces of leather, ginger bread and spices. It is sweet but not dull, juicy, complex (more in the nose than on the palate) and well-balanced. The finish is endless and makes you pour another one. One of my highlights this year in terms of new releases and a bang for your buck!

Score: 92

Three Archives Littlemill in comparison: 1988 (51,9%) – 1989 (53,0%) – 1990 (47,8%)

As these are as wonderful as so many others we reviewed here (thyme, fruits, dried hay, malty sweetness), I limit myself to key words:

1988: Loads of berries, flawless balance, maturity, understatement – holy crab! – 91 points

1989: More oak than usual, a typical example, complex – 90 points

1990: Spicy elements like a rye whisky with a wonderful finish, but a bit atypical – 89 points

Miltonduff 1995 – 2014 Whisky-Fässle, 51,2%

Comment: The nose starts with dried hay and flowers and some sweet malt in the background. One can already sense that this one needs time to unfold. A bit later, Snickers and KitKat White Chunky bars appear (nuts, caramel, chocolate, vanilla) along with crystallized pineapple, peaches, oranges, honey, licorice, pepper and marshmallows. Somehow I am reminded of oaked Chardonnay and fruit tea/infusions. On the palate this Miltonduff is rather sweet and fruity and really smooth. It has just a hint of oak and vanilla and a nice leathery dry touch – like suede on the tongue. In the finish the fruitiness prevails along with blossom tea, elderflower, vanilla and oak. This is a real springtime dram for lovers and ladies.

Score: 88+ (89 for complexity)

Ledaig 2005 – 2014 Whisky Fässle, 53,3%

Comment: It is almost boring (in a good way!) how reliable 2005 Ledaig is, and this one makes no difference – already a classic vintage for me. I heard that younger ones are as peated as these, soon there will be a Hepburn’s Choice release to check. This 2005 is typical, altogether more on the green side (agave juice, green tea, herbs). I am getting shoe shine on leathery shoes, soot, peat, chili and pepper, green apple, iodine, farmyard smells and freshly ground coffee in the nose – and some pine aromas of a sauna. It tastes as above, but the abv shows some reduction which reduces the fun factor a bit. It is too nice, almost Bowmore-esque at times. Nevertheless this is great stuff, maybe suitable to introduce beginners to island peatsters – or for anyone who loves peated whisky with high quality.

Score: 89

Now let’s talk about the bottlings in brief fashion. The first batch has gone rather quick, so let’s just give an overview.

Batch Dec. 2013 / January 2014:

Auchentoshan 11 y.o. (2001): Very typical yet better than the original, somewhat bigger and oilier, nuts, grass, lemon zest, herbs, vanilla, spring onions and more soft spice elements, long finish. 87 points.

Blair Athol 10 y.o. (2002): Great allrounder qualities, fruity tail, the favourite for many tasters among this batch. 88 points.

Braeval 12 y.o. Sherry Butt (2001): 87 points.

Tamdhu 12 y.o. (2001): Very typical of Speyside, straight and honest dram. 85 points.

Benrinnes 10 y.o. Sherry Butt (2003): 86 points.

Ledaig 8 y.o. (2005): We all love the 2005 Ledaig with its huge peaty tang and the leather – shoe shine – apple aromas. This one makes no difference. Another favourite among the tasters: 88 points.

The new batch was just released in February 2014 and I expected the quality to drop a bit, but again these are bangs for your buck, really good quality and fair value. Check it out:

Batch February 2014:

Auchentoshan 12 y.o. (2001 – 2014): A fruitbasket of a Lowlander, then green apples, lemon zest, grass and vanilla. It drinks softly yet chewy, fruity and big with a good balance. 87 points.

Craigellachie 9 y.o. Refill Sherry Cask (2004 – 2014): Hay, dried flowers, maltiness, ginger bread, pumpkin pie spice, licorice, pineapple and white pepper at nosing; drinks sweeter as expected, great spiciness with a soft body and impeccable balance. 87 points.

Balmenach 12 y.o. (2001 – 2014): A mix of regional and tropical fruit, rather fruity overall, amazingly mature for its age, plus canned milk. Nice finish. 88 points.

Benrinnes 11 y.o. Refill Sherry Cask (2002 – 2014): Honey, dried flowers, malt, hay, ginger, lemon zest; tastes okayish but has not settled in balance yet, it could add complexitiy, too. 82 points.

Speyburn 9 y.o. Refill Sherry (Fino?) (2004 – 2014): My favourite bottling of the bunch – it really smells and tastes like the water inside the mushroom glass, then apple compote, grapes, fino sherry, canned milk, brine, tropical fruits (pineapple, guava) and spices (chili, pepper), deep and unusual yet mild. Amazing. 89 points.

Glenrothes 9 y.o. 1st-fill Sherry Cask (2004 – 2014): nice sherry nose, not too raisiny, grapes, blood oranges, cola mix, black pepper, Asian spice; mild taste; a wondeful sherry cask bottling. 88+ points.

So get your hands on some of these drams for daily pleasure or for learning whisky and single casks. Recommended stuff!

Overall, one can say that the quality has risen and became more consistent. Moreover, there are some definitive highlights in the series which I recommend (and partly bought for myself). Our friend Lorenz Schreier, the man behind the project, can be proud of his new ‚babies‘ which sell really reasonably (check their website).

Let’s start with the Bourbon-cask bomb Glen Keith 21 y.o from 1992 (Barrel 120610, 49,5%) – a typical vanilla-laden, creme brulee whisky that also renders oily fruitiness, butter, marzipan and caramel, mouthfilling and big. Great whisky in every way: 90 points.

My second favourite is the 17 y.o. Miltonduff from 1995 (Cask 2802, 58,1%) – a fruity and elegant Speysider on plums, peardrops and flowers with impeccable balance. It drinks like an ‚Apfelstrudel‘ and remains classy all the way. A real steal at 65 Euro. 89 points.

Two more really good ones need to be mentioned: The 18 y.o. Braeval from 1994 (55,3%) is smooth as a velvet glove and a great mature allrounder (yellow plums, raspberries, apples, leather and herbs. 89 points. On par with this one I find the sherry cask version of a 17 y.o. Glentauchers from 1996 (57,2%) – being a bit rum-like from the sherry elements, it is complex and nutty (almonds) with dark and bright fruits, vanilla, resin, discrete wood and so much more,  all well balanced (no water necessary). 89 points. All these are great drams well below 100.- Euro.

The other bottlings scored like this (find notes on the Tasting Fellows page):

– Glenburgie 21 y.o. (1992): 87 points

– Mortlach 17 y.o. (1996): 87 points

– both Fettercairn 15 y.o. (1997): 86 points

– Macduff 15 y.o. (1997): 82 points

To sum it up, there wasn’t a bad one in the bunch and many are really convincing. Great picks in difficult times: Kudos Lorenz.

My Tasting Fellows Bottlings

Geniale Erlebnisse aus den Gebieten Whisky, Rum und Cognac, teils aus vergangenen Zeiten warten auf Euch. Unser Gastgeber Markus Ziegler wird wieder ein würdiges und wunderschönes Ambiente schaffen. Hier die Details, und dann schnell anmelden, die Plätze sind limitiert:

Summer Jamboree – really special Whiskies, R(h)ums and Cognacs

Zeit / Ort: Mittwoch, 28. Mai um 19:30 Uhr bei Ziegler – Feine Kost (Regensburg)

Kosten: 65.- Euro

1) Cognac Otard X.O. 40% aus den 1970ern (bis zu 50-jährige Cognacs, beeindruckend, erzielt Höchstpreise)

2) Brugal 1888 Ron Gran Reserva Familiar – Edicion Limitada 2013, 40% (exklusive Jahrgangsabfüllung des tradit. Hauses aus der Domenikanischen Republik, 14 jahre in Weißeiche gereift, Spitzenklasse im kubanischen Stil)

3) Auchentoshan 11 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2001 – 2012, Single Cask Lowland Scotch Whisky, 46% (sehr weiche und cremige Einzelfassabfüllung aus den Lowlands, dreifach gebrannt, wie Creme Brulee und Obst)

4) Glen Grant 25 y.o. Gordon & Macphail, distilled in early 1960ies, Sherry Cask Single Speyside Malt (Scotland), 75cl, 40% (sehr alteund gereifte Rarität, die die Qualität alter Whiskys vor Augen führt und einen schwärmen lässt)

5) Tomatin 34 y.o. Whisky-Doris 1976 – 2011, Single Cask (Sherry Hogshead No. 9), 139 btl., 49,5% (Vielleicht das Highlight, diese gesuchte Abfüllung aus den besten Jahren der Speyside-Brennerei in Monsterqualität rechtfertigt Ihren Preis jenseits der 300.- Euro durch Kraft, Cassis-Beeren-Aromatik und Weichheit bei endlosem Abgang – zu Recht ein Kultwhisky, den es nur 139 Mal gab!)

6) Ron Cubata ‚Ocho‘ 8 y.o., Uruguay, 40% (Neuheit und für uns DER Budget-Rum aus frischen Bourbon-Fässern – wird Euch begeistern und die Konkurrenz schocken)

7) Ron Centenario Fundacion 20 Anos – Seleccion Premium, Sistema Solera, Costa Rica, 40% (der beste Rum im Anden-Stil seiner Preisklasse, Kaffee, Rosinen, Karamell, Schokolade, Tabak und feine Würze umschmeicheln den Gaumen bei optimaler Reife – ganz großes Rum-Kino)

8) Bowmore 17 y.o. A.D. Rattray for Germany 1991 – 2009, Islay Single Sherry Cask Whisky (Cask 2059), 340 btl., 58,1% (Die Whiskys von Bowmore aus diesen Jahren sind außergewöhnlich und sehr gefragt; diese Abfüllung heißt bei Afficionados ‚Die Dampflok‘ und begeistert durch Ihre Islay-Intesität, Torf, Sherry und Komplexität)

9) Caol Ila 29 y.o. Signatory Vintage 1982 – 2012, Single Cask 6484, 263 btl., 56,3% (Caol Ila werden im hohen Alter extrem vielseitig und mineralisch, sie erinnern ein wenig an Port Ellen aus ähnlichen Jahren, jedoch weniger malzig, dafür mehr Olivenöl, Seeluft, Wacholder und Torfrauch)

10) Smith & Cross ‚Traditional Jamaica Rum (Pure Pot Still – Plummer & Wedderburn – Navy Strength), 57% (Zum Abschluss ein High Ester Rum aus Jamaica, so etwas habt Ihr wahrscheinlich noch nicht getrunken, 300 Aromen, sauber, tropisch und auch dreckig im Wechsel, kreisen im Mund – echt krankes Zeug vom Feinsten)

Littlemill 24 y.o. The First Editions 1988, 55,8%

Comment: Another good one from Littlemill, these are very consistent. As usual, we have the herbs (thyme, rosemary), grass, dried flowers, lemon and vanilla in the front seat. Then we get peaches, bergamotte, apple and quince. A typical Littlemill with a spicy edge.

Score: 89

Strathmill 21 y.o. The First Editions 1991, 57,3%

Comment: A highland-like Speysider. Spicy oak, hazel wood, licorice, bitter elements, yellow apple, macadamia nuts, pistachio, honey and pepper.

Score: 85

Allt A’Bhainne 18 y.o. The First Editions 1994, 54,5%

Comment: Ginger, lemon, aromatic smoke, quite some oak and vanilla, quince and peach liqueur.

Score: 87

Teaninich 24 y.o. The First Editions 1993, Sherry Cask, 58,1%

Comment: This is your typical well-matured whisky with some spice elements that bring freshness. The sherry cask rendered raisiny and sweet aromas that are well integrated. I am also getting apple pits. Well balanced overall.

Score: 87+

Longmorn 27 y.o. The First Editions 1985, 51%

Comment: This one is my favourite of this series. Bright and cristalline fruitiness like a Riesling Auslese, lime blossom, cassis, apricots, you name it. Reminiscenses of old Glenglassaugh or Tomatin whiskies come to mind. Just fab.

Score: 91

Blair Athol 20 y.o. The First Editions 1993, Sherry Cask, 57,8%

Comment: A very unusual dram, I must say. Italian bitter (Aperol), chocolate, dark wood and spice, green elements (kitchen herbs), sherry and what not. It gains quality on the palate.

Score: 89

Miltonduff 30 y.o. The First Editions 1982, 48,3%

Comment: Fruit basket meets pickle glass water (mustard seed, pickles, dill and herbs), soft smoke, leather, honey, vanilla and a medium dose of oak infusion.

Score: 89

Mortlach 24 y.o. The First Editions 1989, 57,9%

Comment: Burnt steak, black pepper, porridge, acidity, sulphur, white balsamico, kitchen smoke – a unique dram that delivers on the palate.

Score: 88

Highland Park 17 y.o. The First Editions 1995, 53,9%

Comment: A peaty one but still gentle and immensely complex and coastal, I love it. It shows its allrounder qualities.

Score: 90

Jura 18 y.o. The First Editions 1995, 52,8%

Comment: Nicely farmyardy, coffee, canned milk and leather, The sweeter elemensts are doughnuts, Nutella, vanilla cream, gingerbread and pistachio. It might not be overly complex but tastes just right und quite unique too, as a Single Malt should.

Score: 90

Glentauchers 7 y.o. Archives 2005, Sherry Butt, 52,5%

Comment: Off to a flowery and malty start, green grapes too, quite enticing, I must say. Gingerbread, marzipan bar in chocolate, bark, honey, honeysuckle, dried fruits and orange peel join the nose. It tastes surprisingly raisiny and grapey at first, then becoming dry, malty and honeyed. The long finish is sweet and full of reminiscenses of a fine Chardonnay. Give this one time!

Score: 87+

Deanston 15 y.o. Archives 1997, 55,8%

Comment: I find Deanston a totally underrated distillery, and this dram proves it again – the nose offers loads of peach core aromas and apricot marmelade, a real fruit basket for its age, canned milk, white chocolate, saw dust, vanilla and a discrete smokiness. The greatness, however, is on the palate: great balance of fruit, some Sauternes-like sweetness and the wood. Wow. This loveable Speysider finishes on the sweeter side of life. Moreish!

Score: 89+

Glenrothes 25 y.o. Archives 1988, Refill Sherry Hogshead, 53,0%

Comment: Pot Still Rum?! Could be, but turns into a whisky now: lemon freshness, herbal tea, bergamotte, fruits (apple, apricots) and vanilla on the nose. Nice spices like ginger and chili come in, and quinces, honeysuckle and jasmin. It tastes baroque, full and mature with the spicy edge to keep it interesting. A spicy tail too.

Score: 88+

Glendronach 11 y.o. Archives 2002, Oloroso Sherry Butt 2751, 57,2%

Comment: Dry and spicy Oloroso nose, very nutty. I am getting aromas of pepper, leather, coffee beans, wheatfields, peach liqueur/syrup, canned milk and vanilla. It tastes like a classic Glendronach, altogether more on the spicy side of things without too much sherry domination. Dry oats, crispy malt. It finishes great and sweeter than expected on maraschino cherries and exotic spices. Gimme more!

Score: 89

Bunnahabhain 26 y.o. Archives 1987, Sherry Cask, 50,2%

Comment: Probably my favourite out of this release – big stuff, maraschino cherries, port, cooked raisins, dark chocolate, leather and salt plus that maritime and freshness. In second row there is some white pepper and even more dark fruit. Not overly complex, but soooo nice altogether. On the palate it jumps back and forth between fruity sweetness and spice elements, leaving you with the dark cherry fruit to win, and even more chocolate. Christmas dram!

Score: 90

Ledaig 7 y.o. Archives 2005, Hogshead, 62,8%

Comment: Our friends know what I think of Ledaig 2005 (we bottled one for our club) – and this is a classic example, even one of the better ones. Mustard seeds, polished shoes, apples, iodine  and big flinty aromas. Daddy like!

Score: 90-

Now, everything is back on track, so let’s  tackle the fine Portsoy whisky finished in Crimean sweet wine casks in a head to head. They spent most of their time in refill casks before, then about 18 months of finishing was conducted.

Glenglassaugh 45 y.o. Massandra Collection 1967 Red Port Style Finish, 50,2%

This oldest version reveals the same style like the other 1960ies distillates, which is more than a good thing. It is by far the deepest, most balanced and noble expression of the pack with a medium influence of the cask (18 months) on rather dark wood. At the core of this complexity I am getting  dark fruits (cherry, plum, cake soaked with Port, rum raisins), dried fruit, cotton candy sweetness and Asian spices (incl. sandalwood) paired with white and black pepper – all in this subtle and deep manner, really amazing and flawless. 92+ points.

Glenglassaugh 39 y.o. Massandra Collection 1972 Sherry Style Finish, 53,3%

The cask influence on this whisky is rather discrete. However this fruity and slightly dry Glassa is a banana bomb. Really, I have never tasted a whisky more Chiquita than this one (not even old Tomintoul), it reminds me of the Arcane rum somehow or even resembles a banana milk shake in taste. And these notes grow bigger with time. Before embarking on the banana boat there was lemon zest, apple and pear (in a dextrose-like crystalline way), ginger, white pepper, lavender and jasmine. What a fun dram, yet not my favourite 1972 Glenglassaugh. 90 points.

Glenglassaugh 39 y.o. Massandra Collection 1973 Aleatico Finish, 50,7%

This is the most expressive and unusual one in the bunch, rather spicy (chili, black pepper)with dry tannins. It comes across winey, also a bit like a Spanish Brandy. Does this come from the sweet wine made from formerly Italian grapes? There are aromas of coffee, canned milk, beef jerky, nougat crème, dark fruits (raisins, cherries, dried apricots), toffee and woody notes (resin, tannin). The Aleatico is hard to judge because it is so full of life yet not as round as other old Glassas. The spices prevent the subtle dextrose-like fruitiness to unfold. Some might love it, some will find it okayish and interesting. Let’s settle at 89+ points, some might go higher here.

Glenglassaugh 39 y.o. Massandra Collection 1973 Muscat Finish, 44,1%

I expected the least of this one because I am not a fan of the wine not this way of finishing. And at my first whiff I felt reassured: there were rosewater, petals, litschi, all quite unusual for this distillery. But there was more and I saw that I judged too quickly: the flowery notes from the wine finish went away after a minute and gave room for the most stunning ‘1960ies-Bowmore-esque’ profile I had in quite a while: cassis fruitiness, berries, wine gum, herbs of the Provence, forest walk (leafs, pine needles, etc.), lemon skin, pears, candy floss, canned milk, rising dough, caramel and vanilla, all discrete and in perfect balance. What an elegant surprise! 92 points.

Glenglassaugh 33 y.o. Massandra Collection 1978 Madeira Style Finish, 44,8%

The last one also doesn’t disappoint but has a greener and more malty profile with less fruit than its predecessors. Its aromas are based on dry and peppery elements, nettles, chili, ginger, smoke from burning pine needles and raisins. 89 points.

Summary: In a nutshell, this collection is great for Glenglassaugh connoisseurs who want to experience different vintages and the wood influence on their dram. None of these whiskies is a let-down, but I clearly favour the noble 1967 Port version followed by the quaffable 1973 Muscat finish with its fruity tail. The Aleatico is for cowboys who like their dram wild and spicy, rum lovers will enjoy the 1972 Sherry most and the Speyside purists go for the Madeira from 1978. However, if you are new to vintage Glenglassaugh prior to the 1980ies, I recommend going for the recent 1972 releases (like the one from winter 2012/13 released for Germany which scored 93 points in my books) because they are more typical. Thanks to Andrea Caminneci for providing me with these nectars.

Tamdhu 25 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1988 – 2013, Bourbon Hogshead, 50,7%

„Kirschschnapps with cereals“ I’d call it. This dram reveals a nice cherry aroma on a solid malty core, also dried flowers, hay straws, scorched earth, gentian, ginger, chili, lemon zest and peach liqueur. There is a good balance between the Bourbon wood and the fruit. Enjoyable! 88 points.

Auchroisk 22 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1990 – 2013, Sherry Cask, 49,8%

„A bright version of a Christmas Cake“ is my reference here. Ruben said he didn’t get this dram completely. Let’s try it for ourselves: There is a well-integrated sweetness of sherry-related aromas just like in a soaked chocolate cake (with Port and Sherry) plus the dried fruits like raisins, dates, figs, cherries etc. I like the blood orange and cinnamon in the second row. It tastes not too dry for a sherry-matured dram with earthy and peaty undertones (discrete though) and wonderful Asian spices in the finish. Good stuff for under the tree! 89 points.

Glen Keith 20 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1992 – 2013, Bourbon Barrel, 51,8%

Can this one follow its 90-point predecessor from 2012 (Duck series)? Yes it can, it is a fat and oily woodworm on vanilla, coconut and loads of Bourbon character (Willett?). Baileys Irish Whiskey Creme and creme brulee, almonds, macadamia, pineapple, peaches and other tropical fruits chime in. But you have to like oak. The fruit oils and coconut taste plus so much more are amazing on the palate. As mentioned before, I love how Glen Keith translates the Bourbon character into the Scotch realm, they must have had great casks back then which fitted the dram perfectly. 90 points.

Bunnahabhain 22 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1990 – 2013, Sherry Cask, 52,0%

„Aldi chocolate-gingerbread hearts with cherry-filling“ – another one for under the tree. It starts off on leather, sherry and raisins. The sherry aromas are big, a touch too much for my personal taste as it bulldozes the salty and maritime distillery character a bit. Maraschino cherry, cardamom, white pepper, dates and figs stand in second row, but this dram is not overly complex altogether, a bit plump. Not bad though. 86 points.

Clynelish 16 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1996 – 2013, Sherry Cask, 53,3%

A leafy and leathery (tannic) Clynelish with medium-strength sherry influence, not very typical at first, but then getting more ’normal‘ on beeswax, Atlantic depression and apples. I am also getting sea air, soy sauce, peaches, pears, spices, caramel and gentle smoke in fine balance. 88+ points.

Bowmore 18 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1995 – 2013, Sherry Cask, 54,9%

„Beachfront BBQ with high class seafood at the Mediterranean sea“ – these words characterize the dram best. This amazing Bowmore displays aromas of grilled crayfish (langostin), lobster butter, oysters, green herbs, freshly cut cactus, cabbage (cole slaw) by the sea, pine needles, leather, cedar wood, peat smoke, childrens steam train, struck matches, English gunpowder tea and quite some soot. The sherry notes are maybe not too integrated but ride on top beautifully (morello cherry) and match the profile that is rounded off by smells of a walk in the woods close to the sea. What a great dram with impeccable balance and adventurous spirit! This could the best cask out of the series. 91+ points.