Glen Spey 25 y.o. Archives 1988 – 2014, Bourbon Hogshead 356079, 163 btl., 47,3%

Comment: On the nose the motto is ‚white oak meets fruit basket‘ filled with apple, pineapple and peaches (also like Haribo sweets). Turkish delight, hazelbush branches and creamy vanilla (like a pudding) join in. It is very mild and balanced on the palate, the oak is less loud than expected. Berries and peaches display maturity and lead the way towards a medium length finish.

Score: 89

Glen Keith 21 y.o. Archives 1992 – 2014, Bourbon Barrel 120599, 218 btl., 51,5%

Comment: This one holds back at first, but after a little time it unfolds. It seems a bit reduced at first, but the quality of this creme brulee dram is high – as always with Glen Keith. No other distillate translates Bourbon cask aromas so well into the Scottish realm these days. Over all, a typical but shy Glen Keith (compare to our other reviews) with a long finish.

Score: 89

Bunnahabhain 23 y.o. Archives 1990 – 2014, Sherry butt 52, 201 btl., 47,9%

Comment: My favourite dram of the bunch and a real stunner. Archives had great releases of Bunnahabhain so far but this one beats them easily – not another raisiny over-sherried Bunna from treated casks, this one stands out! In general, Bunnahabhain still is an underrated distillery with many great affordable bottlings around – and this release is the perfect example: It reminds me a bit of old Macallan with mahogany wood, maraschino cherry, orange zest, Christmas cake with rum and port, traces of leather, ginger bread and spices. It is sweet but not dull, juicy, complex (more in the nose than on the palate) and well-balanced. The finish is endless and makes you pour another one. One of my highlights this year in terms of new releases and a bang for your buck!

Score: 92

Three Archives Littlemill in comparison: 1988 (51,9%) – 1989 (53,0%) – 1990 (47,8%)

As these are as wonderful as so many others we reviewed here (thyme, fruits, dried hay, malty sweetness), I limit myself to key words:

1988: Loads of berries, flawless balance, maturity, understatement – holy crab! – 91 points

1989: More oak than usual, a typical example, complex – 90 points

1990: Spicy elements like a rye whisky with a wonderful finish, but a bit atypical – 89 points

Miltonduff 1995 – 2014 Whisky-Fässle, 51,2%

Comment: The nose starts with dried hay and flowers and some sweet malt in the background. One can already sense that this one needs time to unfold. A bit later, Snickers and KitKat White Chunky bars appear (nuts, caramel, chocolate, vanilla) along with crystallized pineapple, peaches, oranges, honey, licorice, pepper and marshmallows. Somehow I am reminded of oaked Chardonnay and fruit tea/infusions. On the palate this Miltonduff is rather sweet and fruity and really smooth. It has just a hint of oak and vanilla and a nice leathery dry touch – like suede on the tongue. In the finish the fruitiness prevails along with blossom tea, elderflower, vanilla and oak. This is a real springtime dram for lovers and ladies.

Score: 88+ (89 for complexity)

Ledaig 2005 – 2014 Whisky Fässle, 53,3%

Comment: It is almost boring (in a good way!) how reliable 2005 Ledaig is, and this one makes no difference – already a classic vintage for me. I heard that younger ones are as peated as these, soon there will be a Hepburn’s Choice release to check. This 2005 is typical, altogether more on the green side (agave juice, green tea, herbs). I am getting shoe shine on leathery shoes, soot, peat, chili and pepper, green apple, iodine, farmyard smells and freshly ground coffee in the nose – and some pine aromas of a sauna. It tastes as above, but the abv shows some reduction which reduces the fun factor a bit. It is too nice, almost Bowmore-esque at times. Nevertheless this is great stuff, maybe suitable to introduce beginners to island peatsters – or for anyone who loves peated whisky with high quality.

Score: 89

Now let’s talk about the bottlings in brief fashion. The first batch has gone rather quick, so let’s just give an overview.

Batch Dec. 2013 / January 2014:

Auchentoshan 11 y.o. (2001): Very typical yet better than the original, somewhat bigger and oilier, nuts, grass, lemon zest, herbs, vanilla, spring onions and more soft spice elements, long finish. 87 points.

Blair Athol 10 y.o. (2002): Great allrounder qualities, fruity tail, the favourite for many tasters among this batch. 88 points.

Braeval 12 y.o. Sherry Butt (2001): 87 points.

Tamdhu 12 y.o. (2001): Very typical of Speyside, straight and honest dram. 85 points.

Benrinnes 10 y.o. Sherry Butt (2003): 86 points.

Ledaig 8 y.o. (2005): We all love the 2005 Ledaig with its huge peaty tang and the leather – shoe shine – apple aromas. This one makes no difference. Another favourite among the tasters: 88 points.

The new batch was just released in February 2014 and I expected the quality to drop a bit, but again these are bangs for your buck, really good quality and fair value. Check it out:

Batch February 2014:

Auchentoshan 12 y.o. (2001 – 2014): A fruitbasket of a Lowlander, then green apples, lemon zest, grass and vanilla. It drinks softly yet chewy, fruity and big with a good balance. 87 points.

Craigellachie 9 y.o. Refill Sherry Cask (2004 – 2014): Hay, dried flowers, maltiness, ginger bread, pumpkin pie spice, licorice, pineapple and white pepper at nosing; drinks sweeter as expected, great spiciness with a soft body and impeccable balance. 87 points.

Balmenach 12 y.o. (2001 – 2014): A mix of regional and tropical fruit, rather fruity overall, amazingly mature for its age, plus canned milk. Nice finish. 88 points.

Benrinnes 11 y.o. Refill Sherry Cask (2002 – 2014): Honey, dried flowers, malt, hay, ginger, lemon zest; tastes okayish but has not settled in balance yet, it could add complexitiy, too. 82 points.

Speyburn 9 y.o. Refill Sherry (Fino?) (2004 – 2014): My favourite bottling of the bunch – it really smells and tastes like the water inside the mushroom glass, then apple compote, grapes, fino sherry, canned milk, brine, tropical fruits (pineapple, guava) and spices (chili, pepper), deep and unusual yet mild. Amazing. 89 points.

Glenrothes 9 y.o. 1st-fill Sherry Cask (2004 – 2014): nice sherry nose, not too raisiny, grapes, blood oranges, cola mix, black pepper, Asian spice; mild taste; a wondeful sherry cask bottling. 88+ points.

So get your hands on some of these drams for daily pleasure or for learning whisky and single casks. Recommended stuff!

Overall, one can say that the quality has risen and became more consistent. Moreover, there are some definitive highlights in the series which I recommend (and partly bought for myself). Our friend Lorenz Schreier, the man behind the project, can be proud of his new ‚babies‘ which sell really reasonably (check their website).

Let’s start with the Bourbon-cask bomb Glen Keith 21 y.o from 1992 (Barrel 120610, 49,5%) – a typical vanilla-laden, creme brulee whisky that also renders oily fruitiness, butter, marzipan and caramel, mouthfilling and big. Great whisky in every way: 90 points.

My second favourite is the 17 y.o. Miltonduff from 1995 (Cask 2802, 58,1%) – a fruity and elegant Speysider on plums, peardrops and flowers with impeccable balance. It drinks like an ‚Apfelstrudel‘ and remains classy all the way. A real steal at 65 Euro. 89 points.

Two more really good ones need to be mentioned: The 18 y.o. Braeval from 1994 (55,3%) is smooth as a velvet glove and a great mature allrounder (yellow plums, raspberries, apples, leather and herbs. 89 points. On par with this one I find the sherry cask version of a 17 y.o. Glentauchers from 1996 (57,2%) – being a bit rum-like from the sherry elements, it is complex and nutty (almonds) with dark and bright fruits, vanilla, resin, discrete wood and so much more,  all well balanced (no water necessary). 89 points. All these are great drams well below 100.- Euro.

The other bottlings scored like this (find notes on the Tasting Fellows page):

– Glenburgie 21 y.o. (1992): 87 points

– Mortlach 17 y.o. (1996): 87 points

– both Fettercairn 15 y.o. (1997): 86 points

– Macduff 15 y.o. (1997): 82 points

To sum it up, there wasn’t a bad one in the bunch and many are really convincing. Great picks in difficult times: Kudos Lorenz.

My Tasting Fellows Bottlings

Geniale Erlebnisse aus den Gebieten Whisky, Rum und Cognac, teils aus vergangenen Zeiten warten auf Euch. Unser Gastgeber Markus Ziegler wird wieder ein würdiges und wunderschönes Ambiente schaffen. Hier die Details, und dann schnell anmelden, die Plätze sind limitiert:

Summer Jamboree – really special Whiskies, R(h)ums and Cognacs

Zeit / Ort: Mittwoch, 28. Mai um 19:30 Uhr bei Ziegler – Feine Kost (Regensburg)

Kosten: 65.- Euro

1) Cognac Otard X.O. 40% aus den 1970ern (bis zu 50-jährige Cognacs, beeindruckend, erzielt Höchstpreise)

2) Brugal 1888 Ron Gran Reserva Familiar – Edicion Limitada 2013, 40% (exklusive Jahrgangsabfüllung des tradit. Hauses aus der Domenikanischen Republik, 14 jahre in Weißeiche gereift, Spitzenklasse im kubanischen Stil)

3) Auchentoshan 11 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2001 – 2012, Single Cask Lowland Scotch Whisky, 46% (sehr weiche und cremige Einzelfassabfüllung aus den Lowlands, dreifach gebrannt, wie Creme Brulee und Obst)

4) Glen Grant 25 y.o. Gordon & Macphail, distilled in early 1960ies, Sherry Cask Single Speyside Malt (Scotland), 75cl, 40% (sehr alteund gereifte Rarität, die die Qualität alter Whiskys vor Augen führt und einen schwärmen lässt)

5) Tomatin 34 y.o. Whisky-Doris 1976 – 2011, Single Cask (Sherry Hogshead No. 9), 139 btl., 49,5% (Vielleicht das Highlight, diese gesuchte Abfüllung aus den besten Jahren der Speyside-Brennerei in Monsterqualität rechtfertigt Ihren Preis jenseits der 300.- Euro durch Kraft, Cassis-Beeren-Aromatik und Weichheit bei endlosem Abgang – zu Recht ein Kultwhisky, den es nur 139 Mal gab!)

6) Ron Cubata ‚Ocho‘ 8 y.o., Uruguay, 40% (Neuheit und für uns DER Budget-Rum aus frischen Bourbon-Fässern – wird Euch begeistern und die Konkurrenz schocken)

7) Ron Centenario Fundacion 20 Anos – Seleccion Premium, Sistema Solera, Costa Rica, 40% (der beste Rum im Anden-Stil seiner Preisklasse, Kaffee, Rosinen, Karamell, Schokolade, Tabak und feine Würze umschmeicheln den Gaumen bei optimaler Reife – ganz großes Rum-Kino)

8) Bowmore 17 y.o. A.D. Rattray for Germany 1991 – 2009, Islay Single Sherry Cask Whisky (Cask 2059), 340 btl., 58,1% (Die Whiskys von Bowmore aus diesen Jahren sind außergewöhnlich und sehr gefragt; diese Abfüllung heißt bei Afficionados ‚Die Dampflok‘ und begeistert durch Ihre Islay-Intesität, Torf, Sherry und Komplexität)

9) Caol Ila 29 y.o. Signatory Vintage 1982 – 2012, Single Cask 6484, 263 btl., 56,3% (Caol Ila werden im hohen Alter extrem vielseitig und mineralisch, sie erinnern ein wenig an Port Ellen aus ähnlichen Jahren, jedoch weniger malzig, dafür mehr Olivenöl, Seeluft, Wacholder und Torfrauch)

10) Smith & Cross ‚Traditional Jamaica Rum (Pure Pot Still – Plummer & Wedderburn – Navy Strength), 57% (Zum Abschluss ein High Ester Rum aus Jamaica, so etwas habt Ihr wahrscheinlich noch nicht getrunken, 300 Aromen, sauber, tropisch und auch dreckig im Wechsel, kreisen im Mund – echt krankes Zeug vom Feinsten)

Littlemill 24 y.o. The First Editions 1988, 55,8%

Comment: Another good one from Littlemill, these are very consistent. As usual, we have the herbs (thyme, rosemary), grass, dried flowers, lemon and vanilla in the front seat. Then we get peaches, bergamotte, apple and quince. A typical Littlemill with a spicy edge.

Score: 89

Strathmill 21 y.o. The First Editions 1991, 57,3%

Comment: A highland-like Speysider. Spicy oak, hazel wood, licorice, bitter elements, yellow apple, macadamia nuts, pistachio, honey and pepper.

Score: 85

Allt A’Bhainne 18 y.o. The First Editions 1994, 54,5%

Comment: Ginger, lemon, aromatic smoke, quite some oak and vanilla, quince and peach liqueur.

Score: 87

Teaninich 24 y.o. The First Editions 1993, Sherry Cask, 58,1%

Comment: This is your typical well-matured whisky with some spice elements that bring freshness. The sherry cask rendered raisiny and sweet aromas that are well integrated. I am also getting apple pits. Well balanced overall.

Score: 87+

Longmorn 27 y.o. The First Editions 1985, 51%

Comment: This one is my favourite of this series. Bright and cristalline fruitiness like a Riesling Auslese, lime blossom, cassis, apricots, you name it. Reminiscenses of old Glenglassaugh or Tomatin whiskies come to mind. Just fab.

Score: 91

Blair Athol 20 y.o. The First Editions 1993, Sherry Cask, 57,8%

Comment: A very unusual dram, I must say. Italian bitter (Aperol), chocolate, dark wood and spice, green elements (kitchen herbs), sherry and what not. It gains quality on the palate.

Score: 89

Miltonduff 30 y.o. The First Editions 1982, 48,3%

Comment: Fruit basket meets pickle glass water (mustard seed, pickles, dill and herbs), soft smoke, leather, honey, vanilla and a medium dose of oak infusion.

Score: 89

Mortlach 24 y.o. The First Editions 1989, 57,9%

Comment: Burnt steak, black pepper, porridge, acidity, sulphur, white balsamico, kitchen smoke – a unique dram that delivers on the palate.

Score: 88

Highland Park 17 y.o. The First Editions 1995, 53,9%

Comment: A peaty one but still gentle and immensely complex and coastal, I love it. It shows its allrounder qualities.

Score: 90

Jura 18 y.o. The First Editions 1995, 52,8%

Comment: Nicely farmyardy, coffee, canned milk and leather, The sweeter elemensts are doughnuts, Nutella, vanilla cream, gingerbread and pistachio. It might not be overly complex but tastes just right und quite unique too, as a Single Malt should.

Score: 90

Now, everything is back on track, so let’s  tackle the fine Portsoy whisky finished in Crimean sweet wine casks in a head to head. They spent most of their time in refill casks before, then about 18 months of finishing was conducted.

Glenglassaugh 45 y.o. Massandra Collection 1967 Red Port Style Finish, 50,2%

This oldest version reveals the same style like the other 1960ies distillates, which is more than a good thing. It is by far the deepest, most balanced and noble expression of the pack with a medium influence of the cask (18 months) on rather dark wood. At the core of this complexity I am getting  dark fruits (cherry, plum, cake soaked with Port, rum raisins), dried fruit, cotton candy sweetness and Asian spices (incl. sandalwood) paired with white and black pepper – all in this subtle and deep manner, really amazing and flawless. 92+ points.

Glenglassaugh 39 y.o. Massandra Collection 1972 Sherry Style Finish, 53,3%

The cask influence on this whisky is rather discrete. However this fruity and slightly dry Glassa is a banana bomb. Really, I have never tasted a whisky more Chiquita than this one (not even old Tomintoul), it reminds me of the Arcane rum somehow or even resembles a banana milk shake in taste. And these notes grow bigger with time. Before embarking on the banana boat there was lemon zest, apple and pear (in a dextrose-like crystalline way), ginger, white pepper, lavender and jasmine. What a fun dram, yet not my favourite 1972 Glenglassaugh. 90 points.

Glenglassaugh 39 y.o. Massandra Collection 1973 Aleatico Finish, 50,7%

This is the most expressive and unusual one in the bunch, rather spicy (chili, black pepper)with dry tannins. It comes across winey, also a bit like a Spanish Brandy. Does this come from the sweet wine made from formerly Italian grapes? There are aromas of coffee, canned milk, beef jerky, nougat crème, dark fruits (raisins, cherries, dried apricots), toffee and woody notes (resin, tannin). The Aleatico is hard to judge because it is so full of life yet not as round as other old Glassas. The spices prevent the subtle dextrose-like fruitiness to unfold. Some might love it, some will find it okayish and interesting. Let’s settle at 89+ points, some might go higher here.

Glenglassaugh 39 y.o. Massandra Collection 1973 Muscat Finish, 44,1%

I expected the least of this one because I am not a fan of the wine not this way of finishing. And at my first whiff I felt reassured: there were rosewater, petals, litschi, all quite unusual for this distillery. But there was more and I saw that I judged too quickly: the flowery notes from the wine finish went away after a minute and gave room for the most stunning ‘1960ies-Bowmore-esque’ profile I had in quite a while: cassis fruitiness, berries, wine gum, herbs of the Provence, forest walk (leafs, pine needles, etc.), lemon skin, pears, candy floss, canned milk, rising dough, caramel and vanilla, all discrete and in perfect balance. What an elegant surprise! 92 points.

Glenglassaugh 33 y.o. Massandra Collection 1978 Madeira Style Finish, 44,8%

The last one also doesn’t disappoint but has a greener and more malty profile with less fruit than its predecessors. Its aromas are based on dry and peppery elements, nettles, chili, ginger, smoke from burning pine needles and raisins. 89 points.

Summary: In a nutshell, this collection is great for Glenglassaugh connoisseurs who want to experience different vintages and the wood influence on their dram. None of these whiskies is a let-down, but I clearly favour the noble 1967 Port version followed by the quaffable 1973 Muscat finish with its fruity tail. The Aleatico is for cowboys who like their dram wild and spicy, rum lovers will enjoy the 1972 Sherry most and the Speyside purists go for the Madeira from 1978. However, if you are new to vintage Glenglassaugh prior to the 1980ies, I recommend going for the recent 1972 releases (like the one from winter 2012/13 released for Germany which scored 93 points in my books) because they are more typical. Thanks to Andrea Caminneci for providing me with these nectars.

Tamdhu 25 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1988 – 2013, Bourbon Hogshead, 50,7%

„Kirschschnapps with cereals“ I’d call it. This dram reveals a nice cherry aroma on a solid malty core, also dried flowers, hay straws, scorched earth, gentian, ginger, chili, lemon zest and peach liqueur. There is a good balance between the Bourbon wood and the fruit. Enjoyable! 88 points.

Auchroisk 22 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1990 – 2013, Sherry Cask, 49,8%

„A bright version of a Christmas Cake“ is my reference here. Ruben said he didn’t get this dram completely. Let’s try it for ourselves: There is a well-integrated sweetness of sherry-related aromas just like in a soaked chocolate cake (with Port and Sherry) plus the dried fruits like raisins, dates, figs, cherries etc. I like the blood orange and cinnamon in the second row. It tastes not too dry for a sherry-matured dram with earthy and peaty undertones (discrete though) and wonderful Asian spices in the finish. Good stuff for under the tree! 89 points.

Glen Keith 20 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1992 – 2013, Bourbon Barrel, 51,8%

Can this one follow its 90-point predecessor from 2012 (Duck series)? Yes it can, it is a fat and oily woodworm on vanilla, coconut and loads of Bourbon character (Willett?). Baileys Irish Whiskey Creme and creme brulee, almonds, macadamia, pineapple, peaches and other tropical fruits chime in. But you have to like oak. The fruit oils and coconut taste plus so much more are amazing on the palate. As mentioned before, I love how Glen Keith translates the Bourbon character into the Scotch realm, they must have had great casks back then which fitted the dram perfectly. 90 points.

Bunnahabhain 22 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1990 – 2013, Sherry Cask, 52,0%

„Aldi chocolate-gingerbread hearts with cherry-filling“ – another one for under the tree. It starts off on leather, sherry and raisins. The sherry aromas are big, a touch too much for my personal taste as it bulldozes the salty and maritime distillery character a bit. Maraschino cherry, cardamom, white pepper, dates and figs stand in second row, but this dram is not overly complex altogether, a bit plump. Not bad though. 86 points.

Clynelish 16 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1996 – 2013, Sherry Cask, 53,3%

A leafy and leathery (tannic) Clynelish with medium-strength sherry influence, not very typical at first, but then getting more ’normal‘ on beeswax, Atlantic depression and apples. I am also getting sea air, soy sauce, peaches, pears, spices, caramel and gentle smoke in fine balance. 88+ points.

Bowmore 18 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1995 – 2013, Sherry Cask, 54,9%

„Beachfront BBQ with high class seafood at the Mediterranean sea“ – these words characterize the dram best. This amazing Bowmore displays aromas of grilled crayfish (langostin), lobster butter, oysters, green herbs, freshly cut cactus, cabbage (cole slaw) by the sea, pine needles, leather, cedar wood, peat smoke, childrens steam train, struck matches, English gunpowder tea and quite some soot. The sherry notes are maybe not too integrated but ride on top beautifully (morello cherry) and match the profile that is rounded off by smells of a walk in the woods close to the sea. What a great dram with impeccable balance and adventurous spirit! This could the best cask out of the series. 91+ points.

Ardmore 66.34: Nutty Sherry quite dominating in the foreground and loads of spice and leather (Gerbleder), traces of coffee, grapes, raisins. Becomes big in mouth, long finish with some peat showing, nice bit not yet complex enough. 85 points.

Springbank 27.97: Salty spice and air-dried jamon meet rubber-like Sherry aromas. Condensed milk, big toffee and vanilla, small strawberries. Unusual for sure, esp. in taste, where the Sherry aromas seem a bit off due to fungi. 77 points.

Bowmore 3.187: Very balanced and medium-smoky with that lovely maritime freshness, no overwhelming aromas anywhere. Ferns, green tea, camphor, bandages, peat, clean and mineral overall, lemon drops on oysters and so much more. It tastes milder than expected, no edges in this one, although a spiciness and a green theme rule the dram. Could leave a bigger impression. 88 points.

Laphroaig 29.115: Unusually big on toffee, behind that the typical Laphroaig features. On the palate, a certain soapiness develops , which puts me off, personally, plus that unusual toffee and some green herbs. Late soot and peat reveal this one as a Laphroaig, but altogether, it is a weird one – which surprises me after so many great releases before. 80 points.

Glenfarclas 1.164: Powerful, mainly on vanilla, fruit and dough with a hint of aniseed. Without water the spicy ethanol comes on a tad too strong and sharp. This also seems true for the taste, so let’s add water: still some heat going on, so more water: now, we’re talking, a nice old Bourbon Cask dram on the spicy side. 84 points.

Tormore 105.17: Unusually sweet with quite some sherry influence. Ginger bread with chocolate wrap and red jam-filling, all that Christmas cake jazz … . Maraschino cherries come on strong in the taste. Well-balanced and in a quite sherried style that still is inobtrusive somehow. 88 points.

Glen Elgin 85.23: I like this one right away, great freshness, fudge, coffee, asparagus, cannes apricots, ginger bread (Magenbrot). Unusually nice and quite mature for its age. A well-balanced palate that needs a little water, then it is really a treat. Nice surprise. 89+ points.

Mortlach 76.85: Spicy, some acidity, softly smoky, pears, gooseberries, green grapes, lemon zest, coffee cream. No water necessary, a wonderful Mortlach. 88 points.

Glen Scotia 93.52: Fresh, maritime, herbal and metallic, somehow Bowmore-esque.  Good balance and powerful yet not being rough despite its age. Mango and peaches join in, really a complex dram, some peat and earth as well, and salt, of course, as a good Campbeltown whisky should have. Also mossy elements. 88 points.

Rosebank 25.60: A textbook Rosebank, incense, vanilla, caramel, apricots and grass, very much to my liking. The palate shows some cassis and wine gums along the already mentioned aromas. 89+ points.

Clynelish 26.85: It is almost boring to see the consistency of Clynelish at work, this is classic with the  aromas of candle wax, apples, soft peat smoke and an Atlantic depression rolling in, plus some diesel minerality. Nothing more or less.  89 points.

Speyside Region (probably Glenfarclas) 17 y.o., Archives ‚The Fishes of Samoa‘ 1995 – 2012, Butt #56, 54 btl., 48,2%

Very regional Speyside indeed, a malty and flowery profile out of a Bourbon cask. Some nuts, vanilla, honeycomb, aniseed and dried fruits in the second row, later becoming more tropical (mango, pineapple), beachy (I know, this word doesn’t exist, but it works for me here) and milky. Very well-balanced and classic, quite a quaffer. A little water doesn’t change a lot, but more H2O creates a soft dram with even more complexity and ferns like a Bowmore occassionally: amazing, try it. 89 points.

Tormore 29 y.o. Archives ‚The Fishes of Samoa‘ 1984 – 2013, Barrel 3669, 90 btl., 51,0%

Big exotic fruitiness (all kinds, mostly oranges, pink grapefruits, pineapple, Guava, Bergamot), vanilla, pepper, canned milk, dried moss, a trace of ginger, Blue Mountain coffee, lilac and white oak – all that seemingly older, quite bold. The palate is much oakier than expected, with spice, chili, ginger and fruit in a fight, like a hot Caribbean dish. Water improves the balance and pushes the dram closer to its outstanding olfactory profile. 87+ points.

Bunnahabhain 40 y.o. Archives ‚The Fishes of Samoa’1973 – 2013, Butt 3463, 156 btl., 50,6%

Banana-Rum (Arcane)! Huge sweetness, vanilla, citrus fruit attack, passion fruit, yellow X-mas candles, flower honey, discrete oak and salt, really high class. On the palate, the banana is still huge and the immense fruit oils are accompanied by some linseed and soap (puts me off a bit). Almost no aok after 40 years. This one is a stunner – only the soapy touch is not for me, others might not even taste it, so my score might be too low – it could have been a 92 without it. 89+ points.

Don’t mess with me!

Einladung Juni 2013 Munich Spirits and slowdrink

Line-up 6. Juni München

– Caol Ila 30 y.o. Archives 1982

– Bowmore 1995 Cooper’s Choice

– Bowmore 11 y.o. Maltbarn 2011 Sherry

– Bowmore 1996 SSMC

– Linkwood 28 y.o. Whisky-Fässle 1984

– Glenlivet (Minmore) 35 y.o. Cadenhead 1976 Sherry

– Deanston over thirty y.o. Agency (2nd release)

– Glenrothes 22 y.o. Maltbarn 1990 Sherry

– Jura 1976 Berry Bros.

– Linlithgow 30 y.o. Cadenhead

– Glenglassaugh Aleatico Finish (Massandra Collection)

– Thompson’s 30 y.o. Fine Bordeaux Brandy (!!!)

– Millonario XO Rum (Peru)

– Rum Nation Panama 21 y.o.

– Pitaud and Monnet Cognac Range

– Tobermory 17 y.o. (1995) and Glen Moray 1990 for Single Cask Collection

– Glenmorangie EALANTA

– Coillmor peated Oloroso Sherry Cask

Bladnoch 21 y.o. The Whiskyman & The Bonding Dram 1991 – 2012, Bourbon barrel, 118 btl., 52,9%

Comment: Vanilla and white peach lead the way, pretty expressive right from the start with some freshly cut grass  and lemon zest lurking in the background plus the white oak being there in medium intensity. I also get white pepper and spinach. Well balanced in the nose and on the palate, which displays a typical Bourbon wood-maturation profile with loads of toffee, peaches, pear drops and vanilla again, all that rather unrestrained. Water sends the dram in a bitter and greener direction, I prefer it straight. The finish is oakier than expected but clearly within limits. A fun Lowlander, no doubt (and thanks, Jeroen).

Score: 87

Springbank 17 y.o. The Maltman (Meadowside Blending), Sherry cask, 46%

Comment: Unusual first whiffs that remind me of a pile of wood in the forest on a summer day. Pine needles, fir trees, and really dark chocolate, strange but in a good and different way. Cured ham, salt and mustard seed join the winey traces of the sherry cask in this dram. This one really needs time to unfold: after 10 minutes, I can detect peaches, maritime freshness and some spices but all that behind the forest motif. Does the walk in the woods continue on the palate? Yes and no, this is quite earthy (a slight peatiness surpised me) and noble on dark mahogani wood notes, mushrooms, excellent sherry, Culatello ham and discrete hints of various fruits in the background, really old-fashioned and lovely! The finish is long and shows the same balance and aromas mentioned but adds burnt wood. This is not your common dram, it brings back memories of a trip to the woods with your grandfather, probably a real gentleman of his time. Not for everyone, but for those who love to explore whisky variation. It grows on you, great pick!

Score: 89+

Ardbeg 12 y.o. SMWS 33.114 (Scotch Malt Whisky Society – Sweet versus Savoury) 1999 – 2011, refill sherry butt, 630 btl., 56,3%

Comment: A very spicy start with quite some eucalypt/agave/menthol aromas going on alongside the peat, brine, roots, herbs and some chalky oak. In second row I find the more typical notes of cocoa dust, tire store, Arabica beans and very discrete sherry. The taste is more typical of a classic Ardbeg than the nose would suggest, simply good. No water needed, but it swims well. Great iodine and matchstick sulphur in the very long finish. Daddy like !

Score: 88

Port Charlotte 9 y.o. SMWS 127.18 (Scotch Malt Whisky Society) 2002 – 2012, refill Bourbon barrel, 66,1%

Comment: Rhum agricole with peat, what a start! Like a lovely flower bouquet handed to you inside a peat-smoked kiln. Without water it plays it close to the chest. Menthol, camomile, iodine, charcoal, that’s about it in the nose and on the palate. Let’s add water: It unfolds now on smoke, barley sugar, roots, heather, apple skin, salt, sea spray, nettles, resin, chalk and oak. A wild ride around the ash tray altogether, I’d say. The whisky seems younger than other PCs from that era somehow.

Score: 87

Laphroaig 10 y.o. SMWS 29.108 (Scotch Malt Whisky Society – An Angel in a Sauna wearing Wellies) 2001 – 2011, refill Bourbon Hogshead, 28z btl., 56,8%

Comment: Although the angel and the sauna part in the titleof this bottling is bull – I can really smell the wellies (accompanied by peat and green stuff like herbs and celp). A great Laphroaig with loads of personality. Nothing fancy, just a great Southcoast Islay dram that needs no explanation. An ideal ‚for-the-road‘ whisky at the end of your tasting session that puts a smile on everybody’s face and guides them home with the warmth of a peat fire. No water necessary. Kudos!

Score: 90

Bowmore 23 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Fights‘ 1989 – 2012, ex-sherry butt, 341 btl., 53,1%

Whisky Agency's new series 'Fights'

Comment: This one is quite sherried, a raisiny and slightly sulphury sweetness is primary here which overrides the more subtle 1989 Bowmore character too much for my personal taste – a bit like prune jam on toasted bread with a little peat. I am also getting roots, maraschino cherries, lilacs, pepper, hazelnuts, chocolate, leather and earth. The palate is very similar to the nose and not among the best balanced or complex drams out there, it reminds me of a cough drop. The finish, however, is nice on sherry, elegant dark wood and peat. In a nutshell: Some might like this but I find it a bit weird and not very Bowmore. Again, just a personal opinion.

Score: 77

Laphroaig 17 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Fights‘ 1995 – 2012, Bourbon barrel, 253 btl., 53,9%

The Whisky Agency's new series 'Fights'

Comment: Wonderful start with a great integration of all Laphroaigs elements. I am getting vanilla, white oak, herbs, nettles, peat, brine, iodine, rusty fish trawler smells, ropes, pepper, old Golden Delicious apples, softly boiled potatoes with butter on top, lemon dash and grapefruit. Wow! On the palate it delivers as well, I adore how it is wild and mild at the same time. My beloved flintstone and matchstick sulphur shows up in the long peaty finish with chalky oak and some vanilla traces. No water necessary, but it can swim. Kudos, I really like this dram (having a weak spot for Laphroaig anyway).

Score: 90

Bunnahabhain 21 y.o. Single Cask Collection 02.12.1991 – 2012, Bourbon Hogshead 5468, 49,1%

Comment: Great and typical start with salty notes and maritime freshness, well-balanced with a good malt-cask-ratio that renders quite some complexity. There is a sweet and fruity base (caramelized fruits like peaches, pineapple, orange zests and such, toffee, marshmallows, honey) underneath this oceanic beauty paired with a typical charcoaled white-oak influence, heather, elderflower, tinned condensed milk and some almonds. I can also smell traces of peat. On the palate it shows a malty and tannic back at first, then it plays the maritime card with discrete peatiness. Without water it stays a bit shut down, but H2O (recommended) brings back the multitude of aromas it had in the nose and makes the hard shell smooth. The medium-length finish leaves you with the wish for another glass – good Bunnie again, but not a loud dram in your face, rather subtle and austere. At a price point of 69.- Euros, this is good value and pairs amazingly with shrimp or lobster.

Score: 89

Pit Krause kredenzt dazu die passenden Drinks, angefangen von edlen Single Malts über feine Weine bis hin zum Spitzen-Olivenöl und einem alten Portwein. Auch ein kleines Single Malt Whisky-Tasting darf dabei nicht fehlen.

Dazu malträtieren wir gemeinsam noch einen Jamon am Schinkenbock und verrichten Heldentaten an Herd und Glas – das dürft Ihr nicht verpassen! Mädels, ‚entsorgt‘ Eure Männer bei uns … und Jungs, beweist Euren guten Geschmack!

! Klickt hier für weitere Informationen und die Anmeldung !

Bunnahabhain 43 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Sea Life‘ 1968 – 2012, refill sherry butt, 498 btl., 47,0%

Comment: Excellent right from the start! It posesses a hugely fruity nose (this tropical and sour fruitiness I adore – passion fruit, melon, guava, grapefruit, kiwi, etc.) with maritime elements in the background and quite a combo of caramel and vanilla. A cookie-like and rather discrete oakiness is kept at bay by the ever-present fruits and whiffs of coconuts, almonds, late-harvest Riesling, heather honey, marshmallows and spring flowers. A really complex dram yet easy to like. On the palate it has more power and spice than one would expect, somehow not as well integrated as its nose – so let’s add water: yes, that was the key, now the beautiful aroma is translated all the way into the finish. A wonderful oldie, absolutely worth the 225.- Euro.

Score: 90-

Bunnahabhain 21 y.o. Archives 12.1990 – 03.2012, fresh sherry cask #14, 62 btl., 52,3%

Comment: This one is clearly sherried and comes from a good cask. Aside from the salt and parma ham, I am getting notes of morello cherries, plums, raisins and marzipan – yep, Christmas cake-like. Pepper and beef jerky complete the nose. On the palate it is less complex and the raisins and the marzipan take the lead along with wet dark wood planks. Then the dram turns dry towards a sherry- and cherry-laden finish. Water brings out even more raisins (some love that), which dominate the finale. The other aromas are there but more in the background. Very drinkable and suitable as a X-mas dram for sure.

Score: 88

Bunnahabhain 21 y.o. TheWhiskyCask 1990 – 2012, sherry butt, 54,0%

Comment: At first nosing, this darker Bunnie is very similar to the Archive bottling above but it is a bit more closed and dry, spicier (pepper, chili), less fruity overall. Prunes and plums, freshly ground Sicilian coffee, dark chocolate filled with cherry schnaps (Mon Cheri), Vintage Port wine and dark wood are the main elements. In the mouth it is even closer to its sibling from above, but it is more restrained with bigger coffee notes and a drier finish. Water helps a lot here and makes it much more enjoyable and complex. For sherry-heads, though.

Score: 88

Caol Ila 30 y.o. Archives 1982 – 2012, Bourbon Hogshead 758, 207 btl., 51,2%

Comment: Unusually fruity at first whiff but still with the typical peaty DNA of Caol Ila or even the one of older medicinical Islay drams like Ardbeg (indeed) but only for seconds. This amazing stuff turns towards mineral austerity after a while and then displays fruit again – a tightrope dancer with impeccable balance between these worlds. I am getting lemon zest, salt, olive oil, tarry tires, chalky and discrete oak, minty freshness, tropical fruits (peaches, pineapple, banana), herbs for soups and only a little juniper. This is mature Islay whisky for the connoisseur of elegant drams. No water needed.

Score: 90+

Caol Ila 28 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Sea Life‘ 1984 – 2012, ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 254 btl., 53,5%

Comment: Same basic maritime style minus the fruitiness of above’s bottling, yet wonderfully austere and mineral again with a touch of lemon zest. This is spicier and more Talisker-esque, dare I say. The peat layer is thin and and very elegant but develops some grip on the palate. Chalky oak again, tar, burning embers and juniper combine in great balance with wonderful of sea salt on the palate. Great choice.

Score: 89

Caol Ila 21 y.o. TheWhiskyCask 1990 – 2012, Bourbon Cask, 55%

Comment: This one is different, a farmyardy and herbal peater with quite some spice (white pepper, coriander, a little cinnamon), altogether the most typical of the three (white pepper,olive oil, juniper, lemon chicken, suede leather) – and it is notably younger and a little less balanced, but has more power and oak. The dry attack with some sulphury moments is best tamed with some drops of water.

Score: 86

On Friday, a 1993 even won the tasting in Landshut: It was Andrea Caminneci’s C&S Dram at 18 years and 51,4% (90+ points for me). So let’s see if this version can keep up:

Glen Keith 19 y.o Whisky-Fässle „Duck Edition“ 10.1992 – 07.2012, Bourbon Cask, 49,1%

Comment: The first whiff already tells a novel – another great Glen Keith that could be a poster child for how Bourbon casks should influence a spirit, a quality being typical of Glen Keith. Loads of vanilla, dried fruits (pineapple!) and white oak (plus the spices going with that) followed by natural caramel, flowers (pollen), honey, mango, melon, pear, orange, Sauvignon blanc (gooseberries) and a slight hint of cloves – all this is well-balanced. The taste doesn’t let you down either and the oakiness is just as loud as necessary. Fruit oils caress the tongue and even some coconut can be found. The long and tasty finish makes you want to pair this bottling with a creme brulee or stuff like that. A dash of water brings out even more fruit. A malt also for Bourbon lovers. Kudos, Jens! Hurry up to get a bottle, guys …

Score: 90

To warm up for this event, let’s have a dram from the local Swabian bottler Whisky-Fässle:

Tomintoul 44 y.o. Whisky-Fässle ‚Duck Edition‘ 1968 – 2012, Bourbon Hogshead, 45,5%

Comment: A great tropical fruit basket on the sour, flowery-light and fresh side with just the right amount of white oak despite 44 years of age. Just to name a few aromas, I am getting passion fruit, mango guave, green banana, pineapple, lime, a pinch of white pepper, vanilla cream, acacia honey, malt, candyfloss and macadamia nuts. All that is well-balanced, and it is not another banana-boat. It tastes wonderful, I must say, starting lightly but then building up more and more (with all these beautiful scents mentioned). A little malty, oaky and spicy grip after swallowing ends the growth period and leads into a vanilla-toffee and oak-laden finish with the fruits hovering around. Long echo! A drop of water levels out the bite if you want to have it super-smooth. A great oldie all the way.

Score: 90+

Littlemill 20 y.o. Liquid Library (The Whisky Agency) 1992 – 2012 Bourbon Hogshead, 313 btl., 51,6%

Comment: Nice one again, aahhh, wonderful freshness and amazing complexity! I am getting green grass, spinach, pine needle, vanilla, fudge toffee, sweet malt, thyme and rosemary, cinnamon, cilantro, cardamom, pepper, ginger ale, smoke, wet earth, nutty elements, pineapple, maraschino cherries and plums. It tastes very fruity and vanilla-toffee-like, berries, malt, spice and grass join in. The finish brings back all aromas of the nose in soft waves. Kudos, one of the best Bourbon cask Littlemill from those years up to date, i.m.h.o.!

Score: 90

Littlemill 22 y.o. Malts of Scotland MoS 28.03.1989 – 05.2011, sherry butt 2511, 325 btl., 52,8%

Comment: Smokier, slightly darker, sherried and spicier than its predecessor. Surprisingly rummy as well but overall the same fresh profile (rosemary, thyme, pine needle, maraschino sherry, pineapple, plums, cinnamon, cardamom, smoke). The taste is on the herbal side and displays a dark woodiness of the fine kind – there must have been great sherry casks used at Littlemill back in the late 1980ies. The depth of the finish is breathtaking. High quality!

Score: 91

Littlemill 23 y.o. TheWhiskyCask 1988 – 2012, first-fill sherry butt, 54,9%

Comment: Way darker stuff! It possesses beautiful aromas of old sherry casks in this noble style – like early 1970 Bowmore wood, I daresay, clearly there but unobtrusive. This one adds cigar and humidor notes to the earthy smokiness, very close to the excellent 1989 sherry cask releases by Archives and Whisky-Fässle (check their tasting notes here on the page by following the link above). Great balance, too, amazing! The taste has dry moments and the other features of such casks while bringing the usual qualities to the table as well, just a darker style that dampens the profile a bit overall.

Score: 90+

Bonus:

Littlemill 22 y.o. Liquid Library (The Whisky Agency) 1989 – 2011, sherry wood, 221 btl., 48,3%

Comment: A bit thinner and more fragile than the bottlings before but a great Littlemill nonetheless. Like the smoother and softer brother of the MoS release.

Score: 89

No words make sense here: R.I.P. Tommy

Springbank 13 y.o. OB Pot Still Edition 1997, Sherry Hogshead #296, 216 btl., 57,1%

Comment: This departs from the recent austere style, it is lush and full of dark cooked fruits, but the sherry is a bit too intense and monodimensional in here to be a great one – the saltiness saves it. Altogether, a good dram for lovers of very sherried drams (thanks, Reinhard).

Score: 88

Springbank 14 y.o. OB Jazz Edition (selected by Hans Offringa) bottled 2010, Cream Sherry Butt, 600 btl., 56%

Comment: A raisin-driven and spicy (peppery) dram with quite some power. I also get a good maltiness wrapped in honey and salt. Decent, but not a must-have, recommended with water.

Score: 84

Port Charlotte 9 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 127.15 ‚A jostling jingle-bag‘ 21.06.2002 – 2011, refill barrel, 256 btl., 65,9%

Comment: The ashtray itself, really, that is what it reminds me of at the first whiff. Ash and burnt tobacco rise from the glass with some sweet maltiness and peat embers in the back. Kippers, oysters, you name it. Very coastal, but a bit closed without water. It also tastes ashtray-like, way to hot, it has enormous teeth! Let’s tame it with H2O, lots of: Now we’re talking. Hints of caramel, mossy earth, lemon zest, Grand Marnier, heather, iron powder (like a nail), green banana skin and glue widen the range of aromas in this PC after dilution. It also tastes much better now and the finish is longer and more complex, it shifts into an Ardbeg-like direction (iodine, chocolate, etc.), the finish becomes quite amazing ind seductive, surprisingly. Still more on the brutal side and less refined though. Water is essential here, the key to unlock it. I would have called this dram ’nail in the ashtray‘. Not bad but there are much better versions out there.

Score: 86

Ardbeg 5 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 33.112 ‚Powerful, elegant and atmospheric‘ 20.12.2005 – 2011, 2nd-fill sherry butt, 252 btl., 60,8%

Comment: It doesn’t smell that young, quite a surpise. A rather typical Ardbeg on the mineral, green and farmyardy side again with nice citrus and Granny Smith apple notes. The peat, resin, smoke, burnt tires on hot tar, sulphur, iodine, discrete chalky oak from those refilled sherry casks (that go perfect with Ardbeg i.m.h.o.), mustard seed, chocolate, spinach and jet fuel aromas have some acidity to them. I am also getting sandy pebbles on the beach. Rather complex for such a youngster, not at all an alcohol-driven nose. The palate is a powerhouse, really punchy without being spicy or unpolished, no offnote here! What an Ardbeg! A monster without being rough. Long finish with big iodine, tires and soot! I used to say that Ardbeg takes some time to unfold, but this dram seems to be an exception. Impressive and very South Coast Islay. Water is not necessary but makes it more accessible to some fainter hearted natures.

Score: 90+

Ardbeg 11 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 33.115 ‚Man, that’s braw!‘ 31.08.1999 – 09.2011, refill sherry butt, 578 btl., 55,4%

Comment: This is less powerful and dryer than the 5 y.o. contender because the refill sherry cask has done a good  ‚rounding-off the edges-job‘ without being very obvious or sweet (unobtrusive in background) – a rather inactive cask like the one above has been used, but over 100% more time of ageing took place. There are nice white pepper and chili notes, eucalypt, nettles, pu-erh tea, plums, prunes, apples, peat, chalky oak, iodine, aromatic smoke and sulphur. Asian spices and chocolate join in on the palate with sherry traces and green tea – later plums and the peat-sulphur-iodine-combo. If the 112 is the mineral and fresh Riesling from Rheinhessen, this one is your typical Barossa Shiraz (in wine analogy terms speaking). I prefer the Riesling this time.

Score: 89

Asking if it is worth the price is probably not the right question here. I tasted and own the old 1957 OB and its equivalent from Berry Bros. & Rudd, both excellent drams, but not extra special (over 90 points, below 94). The value in this bottling is elsewhere – it is magical in many ways, not rationally explainable. And for those twelve lucky guys who can afford it, it will be an amazing centerpiece of liquid and solid art in their collections – although this might break the wallets and hearts of some less wealthy Bowmore collectors. Maybe I will be able to taste this gem one day, who knows. I’d love to. And if not I won’t begrudge the bottle its owners and simply enjoy the beauty of it vicariously.

The fourty from the same vintage

Littlemill 22 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Sea Life‘ 1990 – 2012, refill sherry butt, 719 btl., 52,2%

New Whisky Agency Bottlings (Sea Life and more)

Comment: Cookie-like (sweet malt) and very complex. All kinds of fruit (also maraschino cherry), green elements (fresh grass, herbs), huge vanilla notes, natural caramel, almonds, quite some coconut, cinnamon, white oak, dry earth and a little peat, all well mixed. The palate is just as fine as the nose with impeccable balance. Sour fruitiness with some berries (cassis), coconut, apple crumble with vanilla sauce, ginger, lemon zest in medium weight show up as well. The fruits get bigger in the finish (hello pineapple), wrapped in gentle peat and oak. It makes you want another glass. Adorable, just like a cookie-coconut dessert!

Score: 89+

Littlemill 21 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 97.21 ‚Laurel, meadowsweet and honeysuckle‘, 07.03.1990 – 2011, first-fill barrel, 217 btl., 54,7%

Comment: Fruity (pears, cherry, plum, passion fruit) and oaky at first with this amazingly sweet malt note like Macallan (sorry for repeating this, the maltiness is just very similar). There also is vanilla, cookie and caramel, but less intense than in the Sea Life release due to louder wood. In addition I am getting cocnut and hazelnut, cinnamon, grass and peat, so the two Lowlanders are not far from each other. On the palate it reveals the Littlemill fruit and grass charm with slightly more wood than usual, somehow it is sweet n‘ sour and oozes beautiful Indian spices. It finishes just like that with the oak in domination. That is its weakness, but on a high level.

Score: 86+

Where the FUCK are my cookies?

I loved the ‚Cowboy’s Campfire Dram‘ release (SMWS 29.102), an amazing Laphroaig. Let’s see how these two compare in a head-to-head:

Laphroaig 12 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 29.105, ‚Massive and volcanic‘, 25.3.1999 – 8.2011, Refill Sherry Butt, 619 btl., 59,6%

Comment: Typical, very dirty, peaty and maritime with a green herbal touch, hot ash, slight mint aromas, much salt and pepper, mustard seed and a very discrete sherry influence. The power on the palate is enormous, what an explosion of peat and spice with heavy oily aromas, untamed Islay to the core, then my beloved matchstick sulphur and soot set in for good and the dram ends on these notes – smoother than expected – but still monstrous. I like it without water for its punchiness, but water makes it very well rounded and accessible. Try for yourself.

Score: 90

Laphroaig 20 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 29.104, ‚Not for wee boys‘, 12.10.1990 – 2011, refill sherry butt, 584 btl., 58,2%

Comment: Something went wrong with this cask, a bit of fungi, rubber and rotten sherry cover and dull down the usual Laphroaig features, but there also are nice aromas of ginger bread, curry and forest floor (Ben Nevis-like). Chocolate, sauerkraut and bacon add to the mix, a really unusual one. I am not yet decided. The taste is a bit more Laphroaig now (spicier than nose) but still in the same camp, quite sweet, then heavy peat smoke, the finish finally displays South coastal Islay features in a more typical way (soot, sulphur, peat, iodine). Worth a try, yet uncommon. No water needed.

Score: 86

To celebrate this I am going to publish this review from a session with fellow Maniac Keith Wood. We also featured the Ronnie Routledge bottle on our stands at fairs recently where people loved it. Here is why:

Glenglassaugh 35 y.o. OB The Chosen Few No. 1 – Ronnie Routledge, May 1976 – 2011, Sherry Butt, 654 btl., 49,6%

Comment: What a fruit basket, mostly on passion fruit, pineapple, plum and huge apricot jam notes, slightly cristalline and very clean. The complexity is amazing. We also found vanilla, natural caramel, elderflower, violets, lilacs, grass, herbs, candyfloss, honey, a hint of licorice and the smell of rising pretzel and dark bread dough in the oven. On the palate it turns more herbal and posesses way more bite than expected (a peppery influence) without ever losing the big dextrose fruitiness. The finish reveals frothed milk, malt, oatmeal, Vermouth and soft echoes of the passion fruit and apricot. The oak is always very discrete. Who wouldn’t ask for a second sip of this nectar? To put it in a nutshell, this is another stunning single cask from Portsoy in a style of days gone by – and slightly different from the others I had so far. If you want to compare, click here and here and here.

Score: 90

P.S.: A friend of mine was so kind to provide me with an unreleased sip af a 1967 Glassa from a sherry cask. It blew me away, 92 points. The only downside to this dram was that is turned a bit dry but aside from that it was merely perfect on dark and even some brighter cristalline and cooked fruits (many maraschino cherries), coffee and chocolate, broodingly powerful. Forgive me that I am predictable here, but these profiles of secondary and tertiary aromas with high complexity and clean character are right down my alley. Kudos, Glenglassaugh!

Glenfarclas 2001 – 2011 OB ‚The Family Casks‘ for Potstill (Vienna), first-fill Sherry Cask 2819, 318 btl., 60,1%

Comment: To put it short and sweet, this Farclas has a classic dark sherry profile with morello cherries and jam, ginger bread, dark chocolate, dark wet wood, mahogani, caramel and a hint of aniseed (typical of Glenfarclas), all well-balanced and powerful. A recommendation for you Sherry-heads out there!

Score: 90

Glen Spey 35 y.o. Maltbarn 1977 – 2012, Bourbon Barrel, 124 btl., 52,4%

Comment: Hello big big vanilla, it is also nice to meet your friend from white oak country (sorry for that, this smell caught me by surprise). These main aromas already reveal that it is a huge Glen Spey. Nutty components (coconut oil, almonds, salted peanuts and green walnut), quite some toffee caramel, white chocolate and a pleasant fruitiness (peaches, oranges, lemon zest, pear) join the mix and all have their say. Behind that I find only traces of the expected licorice and grass – and some flowery aromas, white pepper, hints of cinnamon and dry malt. Some time is recommended for this nose because the elements behind the big vanilla-toffee-nut-combo are less obvious. The taste is departing a bit from the olfactory analysis (not completely, but really noticeable) – I expected huge creamy and vanilla-laden oiliness but the whisky actually bears more malt, grass, licorice, honey and wood with tingling spice, a bit green and bitter – as I remember these distillates. The newer palatal tastes dominate now, strange but interesting: two malts in one. The fruit comes through after some seconds until the oak eats it up. Aniseed and herbs complete it. Acceptable balance altogether. The finish is very long on warm oak, nuts, green notes (all kinds),  fruit echoes and consists of 2/3 of the palate and 1/3 of the nose, I’d say. One of the good Glen Speys, congrats Martin, good pick.

Score: 88

Spirit Hunter: Simon Thompson

White wines from Ugni blanc and Colombar varietals from the Bordeaux region are first double distilled (“à repasse”) in traditional copper pot-stills and then set down to mature in oak casks, only to be woken from a deep slumber – like a sleeping beauty – by a subject of Her Royal Majesty, who has fallen in love with this absolutely unique elixir from Bordeaux. Inspired by the region’s wine making craftsmanship and rich history, resolutely contemporary, the Thompson’s® range offers uniquely selected “eaux-de-vie”, exclusively from the Bordeaux region. The shared history between Bordeaux, Aquitaine and England is long and rich. The discovery of this forgotten treasure will add a new page to that special relationship.

As I love a good brandy, I am curious to try these rare distillates. Only a few hundred bottles of the 25 and 30 year old versions exist. Find out more about them here. Simon Thompson wants to become an established producer in Bordeaux. But can his distillates become rivals for cognacs. Unique, they are! To answer that, let’s try all three currently available versions:

Thompson’s Single Distillery Finest French Grape Brandy, 40%

Comment: On paper, this is not the real deal yet (hence the name) because it is only married with a little Fine Bordeaux A.O.R. However, I am positively surpised. The mixing seems to enhance complexity and the Limousin oak did a good job. The lead notes are hay, straw, dried flowers (geranium)

Union Jack Version

and licorice, which don’t immediately become associated with brandy. In fact, it is a bit whisky-like at first nosing, somehow between the worlds. I am also getting vanilla, soft peppery spice, raisins, green grapes, crystallized oranges, lemons and pineapples. On the palate it clearly presents itself as a grape distillate in a very gentle, light and slightly creamy style. The vanilla and the brighter fruits get bolder and are well in tune with the licorice and hay. This youngest version also finishes like it tastes, a real smooth and light sipper of good quality.

Score: 86

Thompson’s Fine Bordeaux 25 y.o. A.O.R. Single Distillery, Very Limited Edition, 40%

Comment: This brandy actually is 26 years old and way heavier and deeper in style than its predecessor, also more typical. Wonderful aromas of tobacco and soft smoke from fine cigars in cedar wood caress the nose as well as some rancio, marzipan and vanilla. Intriguing Indian restaurant smells join in (sandalwood sticks, Tandoori, Ghee butter, curry), very interesting. There also are raisins, prunes, dates, cherries in chocolate, ginger bread, dough, lemon grass, crystallized citrus fruits, pineapple and a whiff espresso to be found in this complex combo. This complexity translates into the palate and the long finish in a full and slightly creamy style that bears gentle smoothness. The raisins take center stage without going overboard. This is better than many cognacs of the same price category. Recommendation!

Score: 89+

Thompson’s Fine Bordeaux 30 y.o. A.O.R. Single Distillery, Very Limited Edition, 40%

Comment: Here comes the ‚headliner‘, actually being 33 years of age. And how those seven more years in Limousin oak make a difference! There is so much going on in this Fine Bordeaux, amazing. A wonderfully balanced nose without any edges and a depth that displays perfect maturity that reminds me of an old Demerara Rum or a heavily sherried Speyside whisky (Glenfarclas) in its thirties but with still enough trademark brandy features. It is sweeter and darker than the 25. This kind of complexity leaves me speechless: Muscovado sugar molasses, lit cigar, humidor, cedar wood, chocolate-covered coffee beans (mocca), vanilla pod, mahogani, sandal wood, marzipan, old balsamico vinegar, fresh dough, ginger bread, soft smoke, flowerpot earth, geranium, malt beer, walnut liqueur and many fruity elements (dried apricots, prunes with a Hoisin Sauce touch, dates, red grapes and raisins, crystallized oranges and lemon skin) and what not – I kid you not, it’s all there! This elixir from Bordeaux coats the tongue and mouth in fat and creamy fashion and finishes at medium length. Utter bliss. Imagine this dram in cask strength. It would easily rival great cognacs. A ‚must-have‘ at a price point below 100.- Euro.

Score: 92

P.S.: I kept this article back to celebrate the first birthday of this blog (not the page) – which is today :)! Thanks for reading, everyone. Here’s to many more years!

Highland Park 10 y.o. G&M Reserve, 15. June 1995 – 1. May 2006, Refill Sherry Hogshead 1329, 307 btl., 57,9%

Comment: Great maritime freshness and discrete sherry, also herbal (thyme, minty menthol) and softly smoky. There also are aromas of cole slaw, heather and turkish delight in the well-balanced mix. Some tasters found traces of ‚Gletscher Eis‘ drops, an old German sweet with the so called freshness of a glacier. Mmmh. Isn’t it lovely how whisky aromas conjure up childhood memories. On the palate there is a lot of natural caramel in company with the already mentioned notes. A long finish, really an allrounder with so much going on, Scotland in a glass. I just bought another bottle for 59.- Euro a month ago.

Score: 91–

The ‚distillery only-bottlings‘ can be real stunners (I had great Glengoyne, Laddie and Glendronach) but some were only specially selected by name, not by taste. Let’s see how this new Balblair compares.

Balblair OB 1992 bottled 30.4.2012 (Hand Bottling, Distillery only), Cask 2990, 60,9%

Comment: This is a spicy and fruity endeavour. I am getting apples, apricots, pears, white pepper, aromatic smoke, a hint of vanilla and rather big oakiness. On the palate it is too sharp for my taste. I also find a spicy bitterness from the wood and the typical Highland maltiness. This dram needs water, which releases more fruit and gets a creaminess going. However, still a lot of oak though. It finishes at medium-length on vanilla, apple, apricot and licorice. For lovers of oaky and malty drams and Highland austerity, only.

Score: 81

Glen Garioch 36 y.o. Douglas Laing Platinum Selection 1967 – 2003, 132 btl., 55,5%

Comment: Definitely a classic in a timeless style. Leather, earthy smoke, spices (also ginger) and glue, honey, dark wood, morello cherries and peaches caress the nose. On the palate, it is a real powerhouse with bright and dark elements in one (which I love). The spiciness bites but there also is a great maltiness. Aditionally, armchair seat aromas emerge. A tiny drop of water helps this dram to become creamier, rounder and more accessible overall – but avoid more H2O as it also evokes soapy elements (not uncommon in 1960 Gariochs). The finish is long and warming on spices, malt, leather, mahogani and pralines. A heavy old malt with distinction.

Score: 90

Tomintoul 33 y.o. OB 43%

Comment: Welcome to the flowershop! Pollen! Hay, mint and grass! This is nice if this is your style. It is very light and fragile. Our tasting panel also got acacia honey, rising dough (pretzels), dextrose, star fruit, quince and the obligatory banana (green in this case). This soft character continues on the palate, a very flowery experience. Light but complex, I must say. The finish of this Speysider is more on the short side on licorice and – you got it – dried flowers. Gentle it is!

Score: 88

Teaninich 28 y.o. The First Editions 1982 – 2011, Cask ES 004/01, 49,5%

Comment: Indeed an autumnal fruit basket (green apples, peaches and peach liqueur, plums and a hint of banana) with vanilla, toffee (from a Mars bar, unfried that is ;)) and oaky aromas plus green tea, mint, macadamia, hazelnut straw and big spicy elements (white pepper). Fruit and oak also dominate the palate at first, then vanilla takes over. The spice is big but still within borders. Water helps a lot here as it softens the oakiness and creates a pleasant oiliness. The finish reverberates the mentioned aromas and adds honey, linseed oil, sweet maltiness and Werther’s Originals-toffee. I wouldn’t call this a typical austere Highland Malt but a quite typical Teaninich – and a good one, by the way.

Score: 87+

Tenuta San Guido ‚Sassicaia‘ 1997, Bolgheri, 13%

Comment: The nose of this classic at its peak of maturity reveals leather (suede), game, nutty steak, blackberry, green bell pepper, herbs from the Provence, red earth and  bricks, pencil shavings and graphite, exotic spices and a discrete note of toasted wood. I am glad it is not ‚modern‘. This Sassicaia posesses a breathtaking balance and a lively acidity still. This acidity helps the wine to a great sustain in the mouth which it coats completely at a medium dryness with fine tannins. The finish lasts very long and is highly quaffable at the same time. There is not much to dislike. The only thing one could miss is more fruity glycerine with a fresh and hedonistic touch to it, it is more subdued overall. However, I liked it a lot and compare it to the wonderful 1995, which was a bit fresher.

By the way, we had this with an Irish oxen rump steak and some antipasti, as these pictures show. My friend Christian Thoma, who is going to duel me soon in selecting wine in front of public tasters, only deserves the royal treatment. It was a pleasure, your highness.

Score: 96 (2012)

Wine enthusiast Christian also wrote some reviews for the bottles from our tasting in German (please click here). I mostly go along with his observations, but I liked the Van Volxem Riesling Sekt more than he did (like some participants). I already posted impressions and a picture of my highlights here. Here are my scores and occassional short notes:

What we actually had ...

Van Volxem ‚Riesling brut‘ Winzersekt 2002 Saar Steillage 12%

Score: 92 (2012) –  A wonderful and fruity Saar Riesling taste with discrete residual sweetness and acidity translated into a sparkling wine theme with good moussage. Not as rigid and mighty/complex like the subsequent Champaign, but very well done and fun to drink.

Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve rosé 2002 Champagne brut 12,5%

Score: 91+ (2012) – technically better than the predecessor with great Pinot Noir character and a solid backbone, yet not vibrant somehow.

Oasi degli Angeli ‚Kurni‘ 2006 Marche IGT rosso, 15%

Score: 93 (2012) – Our friend Gregor brought this along (thanks again). All we knew about it was that it was a Montepulciano, so we placed it early in the line-up. What a mistake. This is anything but typical, all on concentration and fruit power at 15%, almost like an Australian Shiraz. It splitted the audience. Extract like an Amarone, quite dry, overripe fruit, a monster, that somehow doesn’t fit but tastes nice, nevertheless. Mmmh.

Fattoria Petrolo ‚Galatrona‘ 2001, 13,5%

Score: 92 (2012) – Great things were said about this Merlot (made near Arezzo). It had the basic and enjoyable notes of a well-made Tuscan Merlot but somehow it had farmyardy elements in it, not very elegant but complex. Let’s also take into account that it followed a monster. However, it can’t hold a candle to a Masseto or Messorio. I heard that the 2004 was way better.

Attila Gere ‚SOLUS‘ 2004 Kopar/Villany, 14,5%

Score: 95+ (2012) – This ‚pirate‘, a famous Merlot from Hungary’s best winemaker, really rocked and saved Merlot’s honour on that night. I can understand why it has beaten a Petrus once in a blind tasting. Really excellent and a recommendation at a great price!

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1996 Pauillac, 1er Cru Cl., 12,5%

Score: 97 (2012) – First Growth as it should be, and in a style of days gone by. Really deep and classic. Pure pleasure for experienced drinkers.

Domaine P. Usseglio ‚Cuvée de mon Aieul‘ 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 14,5%

Score: 91 (2012) – Parker elevated this one to 100 points (Hedonist Gazette), so we were excited. On the palate and in the finish, this wine fell apart, it had liqueurish and compote-like fruitiness and blueberry yoghurt notes with some herbs (Provence), pepper and forest floor, but that was all. A disappointment.

Vega Sicilia / Bodegas Alion ‚ALION‘ 2001 Reserva, Ribera del Duero, 14%

Score: 95+ (2012) – Great Tempranillo with the finest of tannins, impressive for almost everyone at the table. Tobacco, a touch of wood, steak, cool minerality, blackberry, cranberry, vibrant acidity, forest floor and much more. Recommendation!

Weingut Hans Igler ‚Ried Kart‘ 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Deutschkreuz (Burgenland), 13,5%

Score: 93- (2012) – the youngster among the line-up and a surprise by Christian, who added it to our original range. Thanks! This bottle from the hottest vineyard in the Deutschkreutz-area could hold its own, but we drank it too young, it still was a bit closed. Biting tannins and acidity, youthful freshness and fruitiness (to unfold: cassis, cherry), fresh wood, compact body.

Kanonkop ‚Paul Sauer‘ 2002, Stellenbosch, 14%

Score: 95 (2012) – I love South African Hedonism in wines with their exotic spices. This example is one of the finest bottles from the Cape and can age very well. Leather, loads of terroir, fireworks, fruit, wow. Recommendation again, if this is your style.

Penfolds ‚BIN 95 – Grange‘ 2002, Barossa Valley, 14,5%

Score: 96+ (2012) – Most of all, I loved that it isn’t this modern monster one expects from Australian Shiraz. It is very well-balanced and complex. Of course it bears typicality, but in a very fine style. Not to be missed and a piece of wine history. Still one of the benchmarks.

Hobbs ‚Gregor‘ Shiraz 2007, Barossa Ranges, 16%

Score: 95 (2012) – Another addition to the line-up from Gregor, the wine actually bears his name! This was an excellent choice allowing the tasters to compare where Australian wine came to (and from at the Grange before). This is your typical power bomb, but in good balance, modern and full of extract, primary but with a lot to display in this realm. Gregor isn’t for the faint-hearted.

Kracher ‚Nouvelle Vague – Nummer 11‘ 2002 Trockenbeerenauslese (Neusiedlersee) 7%

Score: 98+ (2012) – The winner of the night, no doubt. Close to perfection and still made from daddy Kracher (R.I.P.). Liquid magic!

D’Arenberg Vintage Fortified Shiraz 1997, McLaren Vale, 18,5%

Score: 90 (2012) -Highly decorated, so we thought it might be able to step into the shoes of Seppeltsfield’s great products, and d’Arenberg didn’t disappoint with their reds ever. It had the death seat after Kracher but we still could judge it fairly. Not as complex as we hoped, it posesses artificial Amarena-cherry aromas, honey, thyme and some grapes in a sweet surrounding. Not convincing.

At another occassion, we wanted to have a great Friuli white, so we went for a Livio Felluga – and a Switzerland wine, a Fendant:

Livio Felluga ‚Collio‘ 2006 Sauvignon DOC, 13,5%

Comment: Big fruit (jammy peach, peach core, gooseberry, cassis, green apple, eldeflower, dash of lime), honey, some hay and vanilla on the nose. Promising. On the palate, however, this is way less exuberant and rather dry. The hay takes over big time (dislike!), along with apple, gooseberry, elderflower, lemon zest and a medium-intense acidity. The finish reveals peach core (persipan) and green grapes. Maybe it aged a bit too long, who knows. I expected more clarity and vibrancy somehow, this seems a bit subdued.

Score: 91 (2012)

Cave St-Pierre Fendant 2012 AOC Valais, 12%

Comment: Green and yellow apples, gooseberries, a dash of lime and hay with a little acid in the nose. The palate reminds me of Cider and apple seeds and potatoe skin, but what this wine really lacks is acidity. A flat one, even in the finish (again with potatoe and apple skin).

Score: 72 (2012)

Bogle Vineyards Petite Sirah 2006, Graton, CA, 13,5%

Comment: This Californina reveals red fruit jelly, bell pepper, vanilla, brioche, oak, herbs (Provence) and leather, all rather primary, a ’nice to meet you‘-wine without a lot of depth.

Score: 89 (2012)

The last five wines were tasted in various situations in which no tasting notes could be taken, so I will just post scores and maybe a word or two:

Argentiera 2003 Bolgheri Superiore DOC 14% (Magnum)

Score: 92/93 (2012) – Typical Bolgheri from the hot vintage 2003 with a rock solid performance. A lot of wood though, a touch too much, as AC DC would state it. We had this with the Genießerstammtisch in the Regensburg-Winzer vineyards high above the city, where we could also try a really decent Merlot from that very place. A wonderful event.

Familie Heitzer Regensburger Landwein (Bach) 2008 Müller-Thurgau trocken 11%

Score: 86 (2010 – 2012) – One of the few convincing wines grown in my region, a nice sipper.

Delaunois D. & Fils Champagne 1er Cru Brut Selection 12%

Score: 88 (2012) – I raved about the Grand Cru Cuvee Royal, but this version is a bit closed and not overly complex.

Dr. Gänz Weißer Riesling 2010 Spätlese feinherb, Nahe, 11%

Score: 90+ (2012)

Bernd Kilburg Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr 2006 Riesling Auslese, Mosel, 10%

Score: 90 (2012)

After this tour de force more wine reviews will follow. Stay tuned and join us in one of our tastings.

These collectable pieces always look nice, and some of them contain different versions of Jack Daniel’s Whisky. I remember the fantastic Barrelhouse No. 1, an amazing Tennessee dram.

It is available soon (Sept. 1st in Germany, and in the USA already), go get one if you are into this stuff.

The Label

Ledaig 7 y.o. Archives 2004 – 2012, Hogshead 90009, 302 btl., 61,9%

Comment: Ok, this is complex for its age, the lead aromas are peat, farmyard (compost pile), iodine and mustard. In the second row there are tires, soot, salt and ferns detectable. I am also getting a little sulphur, the smoke of a beach bonfire, wet cowboy boots (leather), lemon juice, white beans, chalk, black pepper, cocoa and stinging nettle in the nose – all that is more clean than dirty. On the palate this Ledaig is greener than the nose had suggested, there are green malt, ferns, eucalypt, pistachio, green tea, mustard, mint and nettles in good balance. Then it becomes quite South Coast Islay leading into a long and satisfying finish on peat, iodine, tires, mustard, cocoa, a dash of lemon and some green stuff, altogether not totally unlike younger Ardbeg. I like this a lot. Recommendation!

Score: 90

Allt-a-Bhainne 18 y.o. 20.5.1992 – 2.2011, Bourbon Hogshead No. 6, 273 btl., 56,1%

Comment: Licorice, malt, heather, ginger and coal dust rule this dram. One can also find vanilla cream, oak, toffee, leafs, honey, pistachio, spinach, spices (white pepper and chili) and fruit (mainly apples but also peach and pineapple) in the nose of this Speysider. It tastes and finishes rather dry on hay, licorice, white pepper, oak and apricot fruit, quite similar to its nose. Water helps a lot by making this Allt-a-Bhainne creamy and less dry with a better balance. Decent, I must say. Not only one to complete your ‚drinking map‘ of Scotland.

Score: 84

Longmorn 19 y.o. Archives 10.1992 – 5.2012, Bourbon Cask 86607, 60 btl., 48,5%

Comment: Indeed summery. There are five main themes which are apricot (the fruit and a flavoured apricot tea), raw black tea, sugar-coated cookies, white oak (with vanilla) and coal. A nice sweetness, which is not only coming from the pastry but also from the malt, fits well with other fruits like apples, crystallized pineapples and lemons. All this is accompanied by some nutty elements, grass and spice (white pepper, chili, ginger). Good altogether, but not great yet. But hold on: On the palate, it really starts performing on a higher level with excellent balance. Slightly sweet, liqueurish and very fruity, all aromas wrapped in a vanilla-oak-combo and some nutty elements. The finish is likewise (which means pretty darn good). No water necessary. A good Longmorn for the second look.

Score: 88

Miltonduff 29 y.o. The First Editions 1982 – 2012, Cask ES 015/01, 47,8%

Comment: Aaah, very aromatic, enticing and well-integrated right from the start, also a bit unusual (which is a good thing). A gentle giant. This whisky displays its amazingly ripe tropical fruit (mainly tangerine, guava, grapefruit, but also some pineapple, peach and peach liqueur, crystallized orange, pear and a touch of coconut oil) in a refreshingly sour surrounding, adds toffee, marzipan, macadamia nuts, nettles, a hint of a black peppery spice and something to describe as a vanilla-strawberry-milkshake. The oak is very discrete for 29 years of age. On the palate it is slightly more oaky (but still unobtrusive) and as elegant as malt whisky can get. All elements mentioned are there in wonderful subtlety and translate into a long finish that leaves you wishing for another pour. I recommend drinking it without dilution but water doesn’t hurt the dram, it just doesn’t change it much. Great pick, Andrew, this is a recommendation!

Score: 91

Macallan 21 y.o. Malts of Scotland 24.01.1990 – 27.05.2011, MoS Fino Sherry Hogshead 1135, 51,5%

Comment: It starts with the typical Macallan balance, this is fab. I find this dram to be quite typical in other aspects too: We got a decent sweetness (from malt and a little from the sherry), crystallized oranges, cherry jam in chocolate-covered gingerbread (Christmas hearts), apple kirsch liqueur, ripe plums, apples, tobacco and a hint of smoke from earthy peat. All these aromas appear in good Macs regularly. In addition to that there are black pepper elements and caramelized lemon skins with a chemical touch. The palate is very smooth despite 51,5% abv. Great balance again and pretty similar to its nose with discrete oakiness. Water isn’t necessary but doesn’t hurt the dram either, but I couldn’t find improvement – so better leave it. The finish is lovely and long, full of gingerbread, cherry pie, sweet malt, chocolate and  Fino sherry. What’s not to like here? But never forget, taste is personal.

Score: 89+