I have waited for this like a little child. The Supernova releases thrilled me, so what will this 170ppm phenol monster bring to the glass? Educated whisky drinkers know that the ppm content of the barley is not necessarily the defining number for tasting peatiness in the make – which Octomore shows occasionally. The phenols should be measured in the whisky instead because loads of reactions and proceedings strip away peatiness along the production process and during maturation (I can explain more in tastings if you are interested). So watch out, some parts of this peat race are a gimmick.

However, the 1970s Ardbegs had huge smoke. One should measure and compare e.g. a 1972 with the Hypernova to see numbers. I am so curious. Let’s hope it is good:

Comment: Yes, Ardbeg nose, pale colour, around 8 – 10 years, I guess… but way more farmyardy, also a bigger concentration on tar, camphor, burning green herbs and coal, less of the sweet BBQ-style at first. Composting pile in front of a mine? With time it becomes more typical, all is there, aromas like peat, soot, iodine, milk coffee, caramel (Dulce de Leche), tires, ointment, chalk, burnt oak, white pepper, weapon oil, old brown bandaids and plaster, but somehow different in array. The smoke is big, yet not as monstrous as I expected it. It renders the effects described though.

On the palate and in the finish, this becomes a real winner! Peated mocca! Sweeter now than it was to expect from the nose, a smoky chocolate bar with salt sprinkles meets sooty iodine. So Ardbeg, peatier, huge … yesss. The finish is deep and eternal. Powerhouse, but not hurtful or sharp at all – it has the thin silhouette in the middle that classic Ardbeg possesses. Maybe some time in the bottle makes this even better, I already love this project.

Is this worth the 210 clams? You decide. I bought some and look forward to cracking it open.

Score: 90+

Nachdem ich einige fantastische Drams von meinen Freunden bei DTS & W (danke Jürgen und Tobi) aus diesem Hause zugesandt bekommen habe, war ich baff. Beispielsweise war ein Spitzen-Bowmore dabei (2000-2021, 56,5%, 91 Punkte), und auch ein Benrinnes 2007 (57,9%, 88 Punkte) wusste zu überzeugen. Auch die anderen aktuellen Abfüllungen konnten was.

Dabei legte mir Jürgen eine exklusive Abfüllung für den deutschen Markt ans Herz, einen Longmorn „Private Cask“ aus der Barrel Selection, den ich nun verkosten werde:

Longmorn 14 y.o. Wilson & Morgan 2007 – 2022, Barrel Selection ‚Private Cask‘ 800354, refill Hogshead / Virgin Oak, 211 btl., 48,0%

Kommentar: Der obstgartige Longmorn verträgt ein 16-monatiges Virgin-Oak-Finish bestimmt gut, war mein erster Gedanke. Ich bin eh ein Fan dieser Brennerei. Gerüchte sagen, das erste refill Hogshead war ein Caol Ila-Fass. Mmmh, müsste man beides schmecken, dazu alles ungefärbt… . Es empfängt einen eine malzig-fruchtige Nose mit Vanille, Weißeiche und feiner Würze durch das Virgin Oak (Baumrinde, Kardamom, Pfeffer). Wie immer lohnt sich Geduld, denn erst dann spielt der Longmorn die Fruchtkarte: getrocknete Aprikosen, Haribo-Pfirsiche, Macedonia-Obstsalat, Kiwi, Kirsche Banane, Beeren. Wow! Dazu gesellen sich Dosenmilch, Dulce de Leche (Toffee, Karamell, Vanille) und eine Spur Maische. Im Hintergrund kann man tatsächlich Torf erahnen, der der Sache eine runde Mineralik beimischt. Am Gaumen wird dies noch deutlicher. Dieser Dram ist toll und gleichzeitig anders. Er kommt nun leicht torfig und moorig daher, Moos, Salzlache, Moltebeeren, Geißblatt, Waldboden, Banane, Anklänge an irische Whiskys kommen in den Sinn, karges grünes Land, wenig Holz, frische Brise, viel Charakter – komplex! Auch das Finish nimmt mich voll mit, genau meine Baustelle, alle vorigen Nuancen spiegeln sich wieder in bester Balance bei großer Trinkigkeit. Spitzenauswahl und Fassmanagement. Ein absoluter Tipp (81,90 Euro VK)!

Score: 89+

Some fine older Dickels came from Cadenhead’s recently, and the distillery is also diversifying their portfolio. Dickel always was the drier of the two famous Tennessee drams, and I passed by them quite often when I lived there. Watch he spelling of whisk(e)y, another clear hint to its origin. Let’s try the clan’s version:

Tennessee Whisky 18 y.o. Sour Mash, 2003 – 2021, New American Oak Barrel #12, 156btl., 50,8%

Comment: As always with Bourbon and such, give it time to unfold and lose the acetone. You will be rewarded. It starts with vanilla, creme brulee, maple syrup, painted fence in the summertime, honeycomb, orange zest, coconut, macadamia nut, catnip, cinnamon, cardamom, grilled marshmallows, dried apricots, figs and dates, summer forest floor, sweet yeast dumpling (Dampfnudel), warm oak with Asian spices. Great balance, lots to nose… . On the palate it becomes wonderfully sweet, accompanied by a slight woody bitterness to counter. The sour mash can be tasted, the wood and spice have the say and are tightly knit. Then a nuttiness joins in. It is becoming warmer, sweeter and softer by the minute and leaves you with a smile – a long finish of fine complexity causes that. Winning pick!

Score: 90+

Unser lieber Freund Stefan Bügler – einer dieser Menschen, die die Freude am Whisky großzügig teilen und einfach angenehme Zeitgenossen sind – ermöglicht Euch nun einen Blick hinter den Vorhang mit drei wirklich exklusiven Whiskys von St. Kilian, die das Potenzial der Brennerei zeigen. Passend zur Idee heißt diese Serie ‚Whisky Folks‘. Jede Abfüllung für sich ist eine Empfehlung und interpretiert das Rüdenauer ‚Water of Life‘, gebrannt am gleichen Tag – völlig anders – durch die Wahl der Fässer:  sehr hoher Lerneffekt … when the peat meets the sweet …

St. Kilian ‚peated‘ PX-Hogshead 666 (American Oak), 18. Januar 2017 – 30. April 2021, Whisky Folks Private Cask, 433 btl., 60,0%

Kommentar: The number of the beast – klasse Fassnummer mit dem Titel ‚pleased to meet you‘! Und da ich gerne handfeste Vergleiche mag, dies wäre der Ardbeg der drei Fässer (hinkender Vergleich, aber Ähnlichkeiten), die Geschmacksfarbe wäre braun. Torf, süße BBQ-Sauce und Jod, Reifen und Teer, dann Pinienharz, antiseptisches Spray, Spur Vulkanschwefel, Kreide, Kalk, Waffenöl, alte Hütte, Stall, Kaffee, auch Zitrusfrüchte, Datteln und Rosinen – dazu eine diskrete Sherrynote, die im Geschmack wesentlich deutlicher wird und gut eingewoben ist. Am Gaumen gesellen sich außerdem Leder, Pflaumen und Burnout-Reifenspuren hinzu, ein BBQ am Torf-Bauernhof. Gebt ihm Zeit, tolle Entwicklung, langer Abgang. Sweet peat, dirty core – 666 eben. Noch zu haben für 69,90 Euro (siehe Link unten).

Score: 89

Hier der Link zum Shop mit der ganzen Story: St. Kilian | 666 Whisky Folks Private Cask | Wein-Riegger Onlineshop

St. Kilian ‚peated‘ Bourbon-small cask (Garrison Bros., TX) 498, 18. Jan. 2017 – 08. Sept. 2021, Whisky Folks Private Cask, 86 btl., 61,2%

Kommentar: ‚A Cowboy called Peat‘ heißt diese Version und stammt aus einem 50l-Fass der texanischen Brennerei Garrison Brothers. Ich befürchtete zuerst eine zu krasse Holzigkeit, da diese Fässer echt enorme Kraft ausspielen, doch hier hat es spitze funktioniert. Dies wäre der Caol Ila der Serie, um bei diesen Vergleichen zu bleiben, seine Geschmacksfarbe wäre ein blasses Gelb. Wir haben hier neben dem Torf eine Mineralik, Austern mit Zitrone, Grapefruit, Mentholfrische, Wacholder, Olivenöl, Kunstleder, weißer Pfeffer, etwas Jod, Anklänge von Mezcal, Gurke, Eisen. Gelegentlich kommen durch das kleine Fass sogar Rum- und Bourbonanklänge durch, Kokos, Vanille, Marshmallow und Gewürzkaugummi (Zimt, Kardamom). Eine echt ungewöhnliche Nase, die gefällt, aber Zeit braucht. Am Gaumen ist der Cowboy kristallklar, leicht trocken, jodig und mineralisch, das Holz ist in genau der richtigen Dosis eingesetzt worden, auch Frucht kommt schön durch. Im Abgang wird er dann süßer und lässt die tolle Aromen-Kombination nochmals aufscheinen. Feines Ding. Für 74,90 Euro noch erhältlich (siehe Link unten).

Score: 89

Hier der Link zum Shop mit der ganzen Story: St. Kilian | 498 A Cowboy called Peat – Whisky Folks Private Cask | Wein-Riegger Onlineshop

St. Kilian ‚peated‘ first-fill Oloroso Sherry Hogshead 674, 18. Jan. 2017 – 30. Aug. 2021, Whisky Folks Private Cask, 446 btl., 59,6%

Kommentar: ‚Oloroso Glorioso‘ wurde diese Abfüllung getauft, sie entspräche in meinem Dreier-Typvergleich dem Port Charlotte oder einem 1990er Bowmore in Momenten, die Geschmacksfarbe wäre ein bräunliches rot. Industriehalle, Gummistiefel im Torf, Traktorreifen, Kräuter, gereifter Parmigiano, pilziger Waldboden im Herbst, Tannenharz, gesägter Baumstamm, Feuerstein und Mineralik kommen später dazu, auch Wildleder und kandierte Orange. Der edle Sherry bringt dunkle Früchte wie Trauben, Trockenpflaumen, Datteln und Sultaninen mit ein. Am Gaumen zeigt dieses Fass gute Balance, alles hallt wieder in leichter Trockenheit, Sherry, Würze und Teer kämpfen und umspielen die Geschmacksknospen, die im Abgang mit einer dezente Süße von jodigem Charakter und Salz versöhnt werden. 74,90 Euro für diesen dunkleren Burschen, sie Link unten).

Score: 89

Hier der Link zum Shop mit der ganzen Story: St. Kilian | 674 Oloroso glorioso – Whisky Folks Private Cask | Wein-Riegger Onlineshop

Fazit aller drei Drams: Ein lehrreicher und schöner Vergleich und eine Empfehlung. Holt Euch, solange es geht – Szenestoff!

Within the LVMH organization Dr. Bill has already implemented such dark malt at the Glenmorangie Signet version- unpeated though – and one can really taste the difference in terms of chocolate and coffee aromas there. How does this roasting work on peated malt?

As usual, there are two versions to look out for: The Committee Release with 50,1% (April 26th) and the Ardbeg Day Edition with 46% (May 17th), both priced 125.- Euro in Germany. I am going to drink these head to head now:

Comment: Let’s cut to the chase – this clearly is Ardbeg with its typical features, great quality as most of the times. Only nuances differentiate these dark roast versions from the regular distillate, the effect seems less in a peated environment, I guess. The strong phenolic elements might interfere with the experimental roast malt because usually the difference is recognizable.

As to be expected, the 46%-version comes across way more opened on the nose, on the palate, the 50,1%-release takes the trophy though. Give the latter lots of time.

The 46% has an impeccable balance and gives us more of the roast effects. The focus is on BBQ-sauce, coffee, chocolate, roasted steak, soot and vanilla. I am also getting thistle and aloe, deep peat, iodine, sweet smoke, suede, charcoal, tar, resin, mustard seed, oatmeal cookies and antiseptic spray on old bandaids.

The stronger version is greener over all and plays it close to the chest. Peat, hazel, aloe, herbs, chocolate, tar, tanned leather, resin, tires, hot transformer and phenols are the main characteristics, it takes time to open up. However, in the mouth the strength in abv is an asset, and it turns less green. The soot, lively acidity and iodine along with typical Ardbeg tastes make this a winner as well.

Both versions punk well. Hard to decide – let’s call it a tie.

Scores: 89 – 90 (both)

Just like us, they want to share their passion for fine grape juice, esp. Armagnac, with the world and with whisky connoisseurs in particular. They sampled, traveled and learned that only few products match their expectations. So they wanted to change that and import themselves. They aim for unaltered and undiluted single casks of high quality, a road less traveled but so rewarding. The boys don’t limit themselves to Armagnacs only as their third release is a Saint Lucia Rum.

Let’s try their first releases:

Armagnac Domaine Le Frêche 13 y,o, GotA #1, 2007, 57%

Comment: This was found in the cellars of L’Encantada and stood out for quality, the cask only rendered 150 bottles at cask strength. I am stunned how mature it is after ‚only‘ 13 years. An amazing nose, dense, juicy, powerful yet balanced and with quite some rancio already. There are marzipan, assorted glazed nuts, leather, vanilla, dandelion, marigold, pepper and fruit (plums, raspberries, morello cherries, red- and blackcurrant, berry tea), Indian joss sticks and incense. Deep, dude! In the mouth it starts drier than expected and a bit demerara-esque. Licorice, mahogani and furniture polish, concentrated grape juice with dark fruitiness, chocolate raisins and spices. The heaviness carries on into a wonderful finish that leaves you craving another glass. A worthy first pick!

Score: 90

Armagnac Domaine Séailles 20 y.o., GotA #2, 2000, 54%

Comment: The second release has a nice unearthing story, let me quote: „Today we introduce you to Domaine de Séailles from Ténarèze – a small, artisanal wine & Armagnac producer founded by the Labérenne family and now passionately run by the super sympathetic winemaker Julien. By a stroke of luck, we followed a road sign as we passed through and ended up at a rustic and lovely estate. There we were allowed to explore the entire atmospheric warehouse (with chandeliers!) and were just blown away by the variety of styles!“ Again, cask strength, no additives, a single cask, 195 bottles of joy.

And yep, they picked another winner. This is sporting brighter fruits and oaky elements like caramel, vanilla, Asian spice, pepper, cedar – white oak? It is even more complex than its predecessor. I find glazed pastries, marzipan, nuts, rancio, flowers, tea, fruits (lemons, plums, chriies and berries) and this succulent red grape juiciness. It tastes excellent, even better than the nose, less wood now, more fruit juice and rancio, a complex balance with echoes of the nose. Elegant finish, very quaffable too. Super!

Score: 90+

Rum Saint Lucia Distillers 15 y.o., Chairman’s Reserve for GotA & Rum X, 2005, 61,5%

Comment: A real authentic rum that aged in a Bourbon cask in tropical climate only- wow. The make consists of 50% John Dore and 50% Vendôme. And what a funky fella‘ this is, holy cow. Not for beginners, sweet teeth or faint-hearted, more for us suckers of ‚da dirt‘ Imagine a small plastic producer’s backyard near a forest on which all kind of junk is stored: old paint, tar, diesel, rubber, dried-up glue stick (Pritt), bruised blood oranges, bananas and limes and the production hall smells on the side – weird but nice. The forest freshness and earthy tones I am getting now are joined by hints of vanilla, salt, leather, ground pepper, spices (cinnamon, cardamom), minty gum, licorice and black olive tapenade. On the palate it arrives oily and dirty as expected. Sour battery acid meets sweet minty lemon drop (Gletschereis candy), olives, rubber and pine cones. It is becoming sweeter with fruit, almonds and spice, huge complexity, rewarding finish. Don’t get me wrong, it is an unusual and funky one, but very interesting and of high quality. But you should be into such rums.

Score: 87+

Good luck, boys, and thank you for letting me sample – carry on!

Consequently, this new Ardbeg is of great learning effect. It represents a taste stemming from much longer fermentation due to a broken boiler in November 2007: three weeks instead of 72 hours, the longest in Ardbeg history! I don’t know if the yeast stopped working for a while during the cooldown. The Ardbeg team, led by Dr. Bill Lumsden, opened the washbacks to allow Islay air penetrate more intensively. An experiment was born. Dr. Bill always wanted to find out the effects of longer fermentation and the boiler accident presented itself as the chance to see. Fitting the long fermentation, a longer maturation time was granted (13 years). Ardbeg fans, be excited for this one.

Comment: This is a typical spirit-driven Ardbeg of the good kind, to start out with. The nose is a stunner, very balanced and old-school Ardbeg, sweet peaty joy. I am getting a smouldering forest fire here, loads of pine and beech smoke, soot, resin, tar, sweet BBQ-sauce, sulphur and big iodine (which I love in such drams). Of course, tires, leather, coffee roast, milk chocolate, chalk, aloe, menthol, lemon drop and herbs are there too. Also some food analogies: A burnt steak with black pepper and chili rub comes to my mind somehow. Despite the discrete wood (I guess mostly refill) there is vanilla creme with toffee sauce for dessert, some orange and apple slices on the side. All this is so enticingly sweet, harmonious and well-integrated. I expected way more funk, but this is a fine and pronounced smokiness with deep iodine and phenols.

On the palate, this has the slim and drinkable profile that is so typical of Ardbeg. Mild start on spritely, minty and acidic tones, then it builds itself up towards spice and burning embers. Round again, quaffability is king.

It finishes on depth! Iodine! Peat, tanned leather, old wood, salt, soot and chalk – and this great sweetness again.

Altogether I think the longer fermentation resulted in a profile from older days of Ardbeg in parts. Iodine, a spice-laden maltiness and round integration of all aromas are to mention. I am getting a bottle and drink it with an old friend!

Score: 90

Join the Ardbeg Committee to get your bottle (in Germany, this is 8th February 2022)!

Cognac Bache Gabrielsen American Oak (Double Maturation) VSOP/4 y.o. for Kirsch, Single Cask, Fins Bois, 64,1%

Comment: This is a crazy one, very unusual. The producer with Norwegian roots is known for going modern and special ways in Cognac maturation. We loved the blue XO at cask strength from 15 years ago. This new release for Germany has spent its life in French and Tennessee oak and the Ugni Blanc grapes came from the Fins Bois region. Not your classic stats. But boy, taste this powerhouse. Heavy Hervé-style :).

With this one you can fool most people at a tasting – mix it among the whiskies and nobody complains. The mature nose is clearly showing American oak characteristics like vanilla, pineapple, banana, peaches and coconut. The grapes and raisins play second fiddle. Also there is some marzipan and white oak. Basically like a Pina Colada from the Charente! It tastes and swims well, no off-notes at all, vanilla-cream-style, and: more cognac shines through now. Honey, flowers, espresso, creme brulee, hints of tropical fruits. The sheer power is fun and the balance is surprising. Of course, it is no complexity monster after four years of maturation, but it tastes darn good! Not for cognac purists, but great for whisky fans and people who love to transgress borders. Simply a good drink. Stay curious! The long finish leaves you puzzled by what you just had. Cool and fun choice!

Score: 87

Finest Jamaican Rum, over 25 years old, Duckhammers / Wu Dram Clan, 164 btl., 50,1% 

Comment: I love the label. And estery rums. So let’s dive into the parrot’s feathers: Often older Jamaicans lose their funk, but here it is well-preserved yet more balanced and mature – a great nose! It starts out with old brown bandaids soaked in iodine, olive tapenade, almonds, ripe banana, star fruit, hot mulch, glue and bitumen – all with a sweet overtone, enticing! Gletschereis drops (a classic German sweet for refreshment from way back, lemony-minty in taste) meet caramelized burnt sugar, licorice, veggie stew, burnt raisins, roots, fence coating colour can, malaga ice cream (rum-raisins), Yuzu and Sicilian lemon.

It tastes likewise and so goooood – noble funk! Milder than one would expect (great alcohol integration), all on high class, lending itself perfectly for the early session of estery rums – or for an introduction into this category on highest quality. Long finish! I NEED MORE.  On the side, this probably is the most guyanese Jamaican I had, which is not a bad thing – both worlds meet here. Wow. Me want parrot now!

Score: 90+

Ledaig 25 y.o. Wu Dram Clan / Duckhammers / The Whisky Kingdom / Kyoto FWS 1995 – 2021, Hogshead 143, 50,6%

Comment: Education first: The peated Tobermory has risen to stellar quality in the vintages 1972/73, when they shared the malted barley with Brora, Talisker and such, as rumors go. Try and you know what I mean. After these years, Ledaig somewhat changed into a lesser peaty, leathery dram with somewhat volatile distillates, not often bottled. Only after 2005, the heavy peat returned with partly great results and higher outturns in the indie market.

This specimen is a perfect example of an outlier of the good kind. I am glad the Wu-sters dug up this one. After a great younger Kraken which I loved, they follow up with the second octopus.

The nose clearly is in the in the sour-fruity and spicy camp, autumnal somehow (fallen leaves), very nice and off the beaten track. At first I am getting tangerine, raspberry, kiwi, kumquat, grapefruit, peach, lemon drops, ginger, malt, yeast, leather, willow wood (aspirin, anyone) and glazed nut pastries. Inriguing mix. There also is sheep wool in a woollen mill, wet earth and discrete peat, hay, ginger bread, hazelnut, vanilla, incense, licorice, egg salad, brine and pepper. Compexity! It keeps getting fruitier by the time.

On the palate it is powerful and laden with spices, sour fruits and leather. Old wood meets shoe shine on fine leather brogues, willow branch, peach and licorice again. Water is not hurting it, try as you please.

It finishes long while becoming sweeter, the spices remain, nuttiness also joins the crescendo. The perfect dram for this time of year on a walk through the forest. Beware of tree krakens!

Score: 90

Ardbeg 20 y.o. OB 24.05.2001 – 10.06.2021 Wu DRAM Clan’s Private Reserve, Refill Bourbon Barrel 348, 155 btl., 46,6%

Comment: Let’s start by NOT arguing about its price. It is a personal decision to splurge on great booze, which this undoubtly is, and such are prices of Single Cask releases by Ardbeg or DIAGEO these days. No one has to buy, so leave it there. I think it takes big hairy balls to bring such babies to the market. So kudos – why not! We don’t judge price , only quality matters.

Many people were so keen on trying this. I am glad to be in the position now, I gave it two sessions. Not the shabbiest of moments :).

A typical Ardbeg right from the start, the refill Bourbon barrel allows the oily spirit to shine. Weapon oil (Ballistol), tires, burning pine cone, iodine, peat, leather, ointment, tarry rope with kelp, lemonized oyster, chalk, minerality, coal, aloe, menthol and mezcal, dirty harbour smells, cannon smoke – the whole spiel of a great Ardbeg in sweet background, aaahhh.

It tastes even better than it noses as it takes the direction of old-style Ardbeg now on leather, soot, flinty smoke and pine resin – no off-note here, just classic mature South coast Islay goodness with the typical slim and sweet profile in the middle, which every Ardbeg should have (sorry 8).

The amazing finish swells with iodine, soot, peat, flint, chalk, hints of espresso and burnt tires. A very good mellow cask that takes us back into the 1970s for moments!

Score: 92

Today on September 7th, the new manager Colin Gordon and Dr. Bill Lumsden send a third release into the ring, sourced from American oak and ex-Oloroso casks. On the label it actually reads ‚Bottled: In a lockdown‘. It took a while as it was stuck in the UK for months due to Covid-related shipping issues, but now the wait is finally over. Let’s go into the infight:

ARDBEG TRAIGH BHAN 19 y.o. Batch 3, 46,2%

Comment: A group of pot-smoking cowboys on sweaty horses rubbed with ointment underneath their old leather saddles ride into a coffee roastery while firing their guns in the air. After that, they clean their silver pistols with Ballistol oil, have some hot chocolate, milk coffee, others sip on Pu Erh tea, sherry or even lime juice, one replaces his iodine-soaked bandaid, another one writes ‚Islay Renegades were here‘ with chalk on the blackboard of offerings, one removes the nettles, thistles and resin from his socks and boots, as they all rode in from a nearby peat bog Sorry, but it noses like that. It is a wonderful and typical Ardbeg on the sweet and leathery side with discrete Oloroso influence. I am also getting nuts, completely nuts, and white pepper. Older style indeed, complex and balanced.

On the palate the fired weapons rule over all the other aromas, really cool – I love this profile. However, it is a bit too thin and low in alcohol to fully keep the amazing promises of the nose – for me. Some might exactly like this subtlety. Big sips help. This is suitable for being served in the middle of a tasting session to start the peatsters. Then it shines.

It finishes sweet, sooty and kelpy with loads of iodine. It grows on you and goes the long way if you let it. Now the cowboys have a BBQ on the beach after a storm. Join them and get a bottle of this noble Islay dram. The George Foreman of Ardbeg whiskies, or was that Axel Schulz?

Score: 89+

P.S.: Here is the official tasting note in German:

Ben Nevis 24 y.o. Wu Dram Clan / Duckhammers / The Whisky Kingdom 1996 – 2021, Bourbon Hogshead 1408, 290 btl., 45,6%

Comment: Aaaahh, a spirit-driven, waxy fruit bomb that develops. Gooseberry, white peach Bellini, grapefruit, passionfruit, kiwi, baby banana, yellow plum, pineapple, caramellized blood orange, redcurrant, wild strawberries and meet vanilla, gorse, New World Sauvignon Blanc, whipped cream, coconut, macadamia, fresh linen, latex (yes!), white pepper, ginger powder and discrete oak.

On the palate it delivers in balanced and gentle yet growing manner. The 45,6% are fine, just fill your mouth. Sour fruit compote, salty brine, exotic fruit, chocolate, kurkuma, ex-Bourbon oak, toffee, all very well-integrated. It is getting bolder by the minute and finishes big and fruity.

Drink this in bigger sips for full pleasure – rather early in a tasting session. I love its subtle details of excellence like in a fine watercolor painting. A tropical treat from the Highlands, Wooooorrrd!

Score: 91

Cognac Grosperrin No. 71 Heritage 1971 – 2021 – for Flickenschild – Petite Champagne, 52,3%

Comment: This was chosen as a Malternative at full proof – a Cognac for whisky drinkers that Guilhem Grosperrin inherited somehow (it was originally sold for two NGOs) and took care of it. Now it was bottled exclusively for Flickenschild / whizita.de. The story is on the bottle to read up on. Let’s taste it:

The oak is playing a role after 50 years, but it is well in check – malt heads will enjoy this (vanilla, pepper). Floral elements (lilac, lavender, violets, roses, mint, lemon verbena, flowerpot) meet glazed lemon cake (Amerikaner), white chocolate, cinnamon and nutmeg. Beeswax, tobacco… more and more aromas emerge, it needs time to unfold. Then nutty rancio joins in and many (dried) fruits like apricots, lemons, limes, orange skin, wild strawberries, mirabelles, lychees and gooseberries. Complex and balanced, the alcohol is well-integrated.

On the palate sweet and sour elements battle like in a familiar westernized Chinese duck recipe. All in all, it is darker now. Raisins, figs, dried apricots, nuts, lemony tastes and waxy maturity make their presence felt.

The finish takes you on a journey through all the stages from before, very exciting and long.

Score: 89

Jean-Luc Pasquet Cognac Lot 68 – 72 Kirsch Import Limited Edition, 1968…1972 – 2021, Fins Bois, 59,1%

Comment: This multi-vintage assemblage (1968 – 1972) from the Fins Bois was Sebastian’s first pick in his role as grape ambassador for Kirsch Import. And these crus really combine into a super power. A dream of a Cognac, which wasn’t to be expected from its sheer stats – such stuff usually vanishes in the blends of big houses. With this example you can discover how great this alternative way can be, I am so glad it was bottled this way – read why:

Enticingly sweet, nutty and leathery start, a tightly-knit and balanced potpourri of darker elegance. A fist inside a velvet glove. Juicy, balsamic complexity, quite some rancio, soaked spice cake, cherries, dates, maracuja, kiwi, cristallized orange, marzipan, macadamia, nutty pastry (Nusshörnchen), chocolate, vanilla, juniper berries, tobacco, humidor. Crazy!

It tastes as good as it noses, more berries like cassis chime in into the complex mix, even black truffles can be found. And it swims well, try water too, just amazing. This is truly a legendary cognac.

The crescendo leaves you crying for more of this awesome grape juice. Amazing pick! With each tasting session you love it more as it has a drinkability despite its power. Don’t buy, leave more for me !

Score: 92

Before I differenciate, both have the Caroni funk and typical traits for these years:

Common notes of both: Jungle undergrowth, banana skin, camphor, ointment (Ichthyol), iodine, resin, sanitary napkin, tar, scented tobacco, fresh mint, rose stems and vanilla – all in all a heavy load, almost overburdening the palate. Let’s go from crazy to nuts:

CARONI 1998 – 2021 Single Cask Trinidad Rum, Cask #2109, 226 btl., 62,2%

Comment: This is the rounder and fruitier one with berries, more accessible and not as dry as its partner – aetherial clouds of aromas somehow. Along the notes above I am getting a deep and spicy impression, huge complexity. Berries, dragonfruit, babana, plum, orange zest, rum-raisin ice cream (Malaga), leather, bitumen, jute sack filled with coffee beans, cinnamon chewing gum, ski waxing workshop, glue, cedar wood, forest floor, mulled Christmas wine (nutmeg, clover, cinnamon, ginger, red wine, etc.), daisies, poppy seed pastry with sugar icing (‚Mohnschnecke‘), new car oil and what not – a crazy ride. It is intense yet balanced, spicy and fruity on the palate, water straightens it out and pushes the berries and tropical fruit center stage, but it can be enjoyed pure as well. The finish is long and soothing. However, we are talking heavy duty here over all.

Score: 91+

CARONI 1997 – 2021 Single Cask Trinidad Rum, Cask #59, 224 btl., 60,6%

Comment: This is the spicier, drier and dirtier one, it bites like a jungle viper – no prisoners taken. Tar, licorice, old oil, resin, olive tapenade, hot mulch from jungle wood, rotten banana skin, nutmeg, pepper, chili, burnt caramel, cocoa, juniper berries, painted pine cone and quite some wood influence. A Voodoo Monster that will split the audience. The palate is a full-on attack, peppery spices and woody dryness bite with adstringency, then relief, wow, dryness gone suddenly. Banana, oak and undergrowth are dominant. I recommend water for this one, as it levels out the aggression and allows the subtle berries and fruit to be discovered – but it also depends on your daily shape. On some days, pure is fine – a great one either way. Somewhat brutal but complex, and therefore, very entertaining. Muscle rum, looong finish!

Score 90

So choose which style you prefer – or get both. Stellar rum that won’t become cheaper and gets rarer by the day. WU!

Beschreibung: Hallo, das ist ein wahrer und typischer Ardbeg ohne jede Offnote, auf der würzig-ledrigen Seite befindlich. In der Ledertasche finden wir das Torf-Jod-Schwefel-Kombo, antiseptisches Spray, Mullbinde, BBQ-Sauce, Lagerfeuer-Rauch, Senf, schwarzen Pfeffer, Seegras, Aloe, Zitrusfrische, Milchschokolade, Latte Macchiato und Reifen. Auch gesalzenes Karamell, diverse Nüsse (v.a. Paranuss, Cashew und Macadamia), Vanille, Sägespäne und evtl. Virgin-Oak-Spuren kann man erriechen. Der Einfluss der Sherryfässer, wohl refill, wirkt nur indirekt ordnend. Klassisch und gut bisher.

Am Gaumen ändert sich aber so Einiges im Vergleich zu den Klassikern: Hier tritt er nicht schlank und süß an wie seine Artgenossen, er beißt pfeffrig zu – fast wie ein Talisker, dazu viel Holz (eher frisch wirkend, ich schätze Virgin Oak-Anteil, müsste mal nachfragen) in cremiger Textur. Definitiv Paralleluniversum Je nachdem, wie man seinen Ardbeg mag …

Wild wird dann langsam zu süß, wenn der Abgang einsetzt. Das volle Ardbeg-Aromenrad kommt wieder zum Zuge, und ja, leichte Echos der Sherrycasks sind auch da – ein schönes Finish. Die 65 Euro sind absolut fair.

Note: 88

As a pre-release, the somewhat stronger Committee Edition has been released now (115 Euro). The 46%- version will follow from May 25th on for the same price at embassies, online and in shops. Go get Colin Gordon’s inaugural release.

This scorchy Ardbeg was matured in heavily charred white oak casks (ex-Bourbon). Knowing former expressions, this is a winning formula for me. It just works magic on the peaty spirit, adding a sooty and sweet environment that elevates iodine, tar and BBQ-notes. Let’s see:

Comment: Yes, winner. The charred casks rendered an old-style cokey Ardbeg that takes you right into a rainy pit lane on a racing track: tarry tires, diesel, wet gravel (chalk and flint stones), oil, driver’s leather gloves and what not. We also smell hospital notes like old bandages, antiseptic spray, big iodine, cough pastilles and camphor. Nuuuurrse, please! The third world I get teleported to is a BBQ at the beach with grilled lobsters and herbs, a fish smoker (Arbroath Smokie), olive spread, coal fire, sweet smoke, soot, peat and embers, BBQ-sauce, honey-mustard dip and cocoa nibs for dessert with fine tea. Somehow the Scorch keeps all these together in good integration and harmony. Additionally, there are fired pistols, black liquorice, saddle leather, burnt cake, pepper and chili-flakes, resin, plums, vanilla and oak. Big and bold. On the palate is also appears bigger than usual Ardbegs, more spice, green elements lead in and get burnt away by the big black smoke of heavenly sooty sweetness, aaah. Iodine, peat, all crazy stuff from the nose reverberates here. A powerful, sweet, smoky and harmonic finish ensues this pleasure sip for chimney sweepers. Complexity and joy. Well done, little dragon!

Score: 89+

Beschreibung: Der recht helle Tropfen ist zwar einerseits sofort als Ardbeg zu erkennen (Torf, Jod, brennender Trafo, Reifen), weicht aber im Bereich Süße deutlich ab – er präsentiert sich trockener und „baumiger“, womit gemeint ist, dass sich viele Spuren des Eichenholzes finden lassen: Würze (Chili, Pfeffer, Wasabi), Harz, Vanille, Lakritz, Weidenast, Wacholderbusch, Nussschale und Räucherkammer wären ein paar davon. Diese Holznoten sind nicht dominant, machen diesen Ardbeg aber weniger Destillat-getrieben und weniger ausbalanciert. Der Roggen gibt indirekt eine gewisse Härte, man riecht Getreidekörner, Bohnen heller Kaffeeröstung, Kreide, Gurkenglas, Teerdach, Torfrauch, Distel, Nessel, Manchego-Rinde, helle Zitrusfrüchte, Birne und Banane.

Am Gaumen tritt der Arrrrrrrdbeg eher trocken und mild für seine knapp 52% an und folgt seiner Nasen-Aromatik. Die typische schlanke Mitte dieses Destillates ist vorhanden, aber die Süße ist zurückgehalten. Vor allem Erdnüsse, Eiche, Gurkenwasser (oft in Rye-Whiskys auffindbar) Teer und Harz treten bei mittlerer Reife in den Vordergrund.

Der Nachklang wirkt zuerst klassisch, klingt jedoch weicher und schlanker bei mittlerer Länge und im holzigeren Kontext ab. Torfwärme und Jod, Kokosschale, Paranuss und Teer verbleiben im Crescendo.

Als Fazit ist festzuhalten, dass ich überrascht war, wie sehr doch die Rye-Vorbelegung einen Ardbeg verändert, ein sehr spannendes Experiment. Dieser Dram wird mit Sicherheit im Reigen diverser (Nach-) Reifungen seinen Platz und seine Freunde finden. In Deutschland ist er ab dem 09. Februar 2021 für 150 Euro erhältlich. Arrrrrrgh!

Bewertung: 87

Beschreibung: Wir haben ihn im Team probiert und fanden den Traigh Bhan II sehr gelungen. Uns gefiel die mineralische Kalkigkeit, seine Typizität („der ist ganz klar ein Ardi“) und die Komplexität, alles rund und wertig, für große Schlücke. Man kann seine Reife deutlich wahrnehmen, da sind massig Sekundär- und Tertiäraromen in Esterform gebildet worden. Auch viel Jod, antiseptische Pflaster, Reifen, Trafobrand, Teer, Milchkaffee, Feuerstein, Streichholz, Leder, Zitrone, Pflaume, grüne Kräuter (auch Tee), Tomatenmark, Chiliflocken und Aloe Vera sind zu finden. Und natürlich Torfrauch, der aber viel mehr transportiert als in wilder Jugend. Man wünscht sich ein paar mehr Umdrehungen, das ist aber das einzige Manko an diesem wirklich feinen und kompakten Ardbeg – ich leg‘ mir sicher einen zu. Er erinnert an seinen Vorgänger, der süß-cremige Abgang ist ein Traum.

Bewertung: 90 Punkte

Having been a brandy buff and collector for many years, the situation is exciting for me and our club. Slowdrink has always been focused on being open for various drink categories. We have released Brandy many years ago, I met with great producers to learn, educated people in tastings and at fairs about it and I blend products and judge ‚grape juice‘ in competitions. So finally our enthusiasm is catching on. Therefore, I forgive the lack of experience and knowledge of some newbies in this huge and difficult field for the love of many new Cognac and Brandy lovers who come from the whisky world and expect equally high standards of quality and transparency. This helps Brandy too … and it helps whisky people develop finer sensoric skills because Cognac and its brothers are way harder to differenciate.

The grape distillers did many things long before whisky producers did, and many Scotch and Irish techniques originate in France and Spain as Cognac was the main noble spirit of the world back then and for so many years – phylloxera helped other fine spirits become visible but Cognac stayed king way into the 1980s. Nowadays it lost some track in Europe, but this is about to change – if the Charente learned from mistakes and can adapt. I also see a rise in quality in Grappa, another very exciting drink distilled from pomace.

Cadenhead, LMDW, SMWS, Maltbarn, WhiskySponge and others have started to release single cask Cognac and Armagnac recently, some great, others atypical. Woody and fruity brandies like those of Vallein Tercinier become sought after because they can offer what only very expensive old Malt Whiskies render in terms of matured esters (e.g. Bowmore fruit and berries) despite not being typical. The departing from burdening tradition has negative sides to it but I like the general development to a large extent and wish that a broader variety of producers and crus will follow soon. We will also release something again in the future. Stay tuned!

Come to a tasting and learn more, e.g. rancio, boise, prune juice faking, wine choice and crus, oak differences etc. – Brandy is awesome and historical.

Our friends at Wu Dram Clan joined the crowd recently and have released a very old VT from a single cask from the renowned cru of Grand Champagne. I feel confident to test-drive this baby now:

Comment: What makes older VT great is the immense complexity. We have it here too. A mix of spicy (cinnamon, cardamom, vanilla, pepper from wood, oriental spices), fruity (crystallized fruits like apricots, plums, figs, sour cherries, apple rings and berries), floral (violets, lilac, elderflower, marigold, daisies), bitter (lemon and orange peel, Italian apero bitters) and sweet elements (white donut, sugar-coated pineapple, marzipan, marshmallow) in fine harmony boggles the mind. What a spirit, so vivid yet mature! Little to no rancio. It is slightly on the woody (hey, it is 53 years old!) and floral side on the palate at first, then the big wave of aromas follows suit. It lands so softly and mildly, more berries and cassis notes emerge. As a single cask, it has atypical and exciting moments. In comparison, the VT Hors d’Age is darker, rounder and sports quite some rancio, this version is spicier, drier and more complex, a wilder ride all in all. Hold on tight, it is a world-class Cognac that will blow you off the rocker if you like it wild and challenging!

Score: 90+

Verkostung: 4,7% weniger Alkohol also die Committee-Version, gleiches Vatting? Schwer zu sagen. Ich bin gespannt. Auf jeden Fall ist der Pinot Noir-Einfluss deutlicher als beim Committee, Kirschen und Erdbeeren, alles gut eingebunden, schnell verfliegend, dann alte trockene Holzplanke, Senfkorn, Leder, viel Rauch, Jodsüße, heißer Spielzeugeisenbahntrafo, antiseptische Pflaster, Teer, Kohle, Ruß, Tannenzapfenfeuer, mineralische Elemente (Kalk, Kreide, Muscheln), Salz, Schokolade und Kaffee, sogar Bittermandel und Vanille. Am Gaumen gewinnt er gegen die Vorversion, hier ist das Weinfassthema wirklich gut eingebunden, die Ardbeg-typische Süße bleibt erhalten und zieht sich durch bis in den mittellangen Abgang. Süffig, filigran, alle Elemente angehaucht. Der Cloudy Bay-Spätburgunder (Neuseeland) hält sich eher zurück, gibt aber positive Einflüsse und zähmt den Ardbeg bzw. sortiert ihn. Eine Schoko-Kirsch-Torte, die versehentlich auf dem Räucherofen stand. Kein Brecher, ein eleganter Altrocker in Tweet, im Ledersessel sitzend – spannend. Selten, dass die „dünnere“ Variante den Sieg holt. Ein gelungener Ardbeg, gefährlich trinkig und sicher kein schwarzes Schaf!

Bewertung: 88

Comment: Release the Kraaaaken! Cool label, thanks to Boris for providing me with a sample. I am a sucker for Ledaig anyway. Let’s taste: Very clear and focused, no nonsense peated Mull malt: immediately a bath of island peat, nice sweetness too, like digging herbs from wet earth. Aaah, historic shoe wax on polished Italian calf leather Oxfords, green apples and tea, pineapple, Lardo ham, stewed plums, tar and quite some chalky minerality (Loire wine). It evokes several images in my head like grey wood planks on an old windswept shed, freshly shorn sheep wool (no joke!), sea shells and Galician octopus cooking in a creamy Rias Baixas white wine reduction with herbs – high class! This is a very elegant version (compared to sister casks I had). It also shows great balance with enough power and a well-dosed oak influence that renders a seductive sweetness to the leather-peat-Island Combo. Long and complex finish that echoes the mentioned aromas and turns nicely flinty. Super choice, boys, I hadn’t expected this great quality from the stats on paper. One of the finest younger Ledaigs out there! Recommended.

Score: 90

Comment: No worries, this is an Ardbeg nose, at first on the sooty and smoky side. Typical features like peat, iodine, antiseptic spray, tar, sulphur, leatherbag, hot transformator and green herbs are right here. However, the wine casks left their traces: somehow this Ardbeg is drier due to woody oak tannins (and cedar). Resin and more aromatic smokiness than usual. Also I am getting a rooty aroma that reminds me of small cask maturation. Later, strawberries, raspberries and cranberries chime in discretely. Nice and unusual, I must say.

On the palate the wine casks speak way louder. The tongue hits a dry oaky wall at first, tannins stripped the beloved Ardbeg sweetness in parts. Not as balanced and slender as usual. The elements unfortunately don’t integrate so well altogether.

The finish is a bit shorter than usually in terms of Ardbeg but it builds itself up nicely, smokily and sooty. If you like dry Islay styles, this is for you – but it departs from the typical south shore tipple. A good whisky but not en par with an Uigeadail or a Corry, if you ask me. But I like to try out new things, and this finds fans for sure. Taste and decide for yourself, don’t follow the herd: „Baaaaaah!“, goes the sheep, tame in nature, shorn to be wild.

Score: 85+

Entsprechend des Karneval-Mottos erwartet uns laut Dr. Bill eine prächtige Aromenparade im sommerlichen Stil, da der torfige Tropfen in amerikanischen Rumfässern nachgereift wurde. Das Committee-Bottling hatte 52% und kam bei uns gut an (89 Punkte), hier stehen wir bei 46% in strohfarbener Eleganz. Ich bin gespannt, wie sich diese Ausmischung im Vergleich verhält:

Verkostung: Schon beim Einschenken breiten sich süßlich-jodiger Torfrauch und frisch geteerte Straße aus, man ist sofort auf Islay. Apfel, Limette, Ananas, grüne Banane und Datteln sowie Gartenkräuter im schweflig-rußigen Räucherofen, heißer Trafo, Gerbleder, Gunpowder-Tee, Kreosot und alte Salbe in braunem Pflaster, Nadelbaum (insbesondere Kiefernharz), Latte Macchiato mit Vanilleschuss und peruanische Bitterschokolade – alles fein eingebunden und komplex. Ein zitruslastiger und leichtfüßiger Ardbeg, den Rum findet man nur durch seine indirekte Wirkung, die mehr Süße evoziert. Eine interessante Variante mit milderem Abgang als die Committee-Version, die im Sommer am Strand viel Freude machen wird.

Score: 87

Aultmore 21 y.o. Maltbarn 1997,  50,7%

Comment: This is fruity-herbal and also juicy, very well-balanced. I am getting strawberry, cranberry, lemon, orange, macadamia-cookie, herbal infusion, and a discrete leafy bitterness in the nose. On the palate more wood Comes through (yet still within borders of good balance), but spice is clearly there.

Score: 89

Glentauchers 21 y.o. Maltbarn 1997 , 48,0%

Comment: A mild and sour-fruity dram, very typical for this underrated distillery. We have lemon and grapefruit, green tea, lemongrass, white peach, a hint of ginger and white pepper, fresh laundry, asparagus, smoked herbs and moss. It reminds me of a racy Riesling , excellent balance, too.

Score: 90

Speyside Distillery 29 y.o. Maltbarn 1989, 49,1%

Comment: This Oldie is very fruity (tropical: orange jam, passion fruit, white peach) but also has some malty sweetness, nice spices, creamy vanilla, like a baroque Palatinian Riesling – great in taste and balance, and sooo juicy!

Score: 90

Braes of Glenlivet 23 y.o. Maltbarn 1994, 48,7%

Comment: This quite rare Single Malt offers autumnal fruit and leafs, (blood) oranges, grapefruit, sour apple rings (Haribo), catnip, some flowery freshness and acidity.

Score: 88+

Glenrothes 22 y.o. Maltbarn 1996, sherry cask, 48.7%

Comment: This one is my favourite in the bunch along with the Springer, so alive and sexy with leather and spice, orange zest, cinnamon, forest honey, Stollen, raisins, a hint of sherry, perfectly balanced and enticing. Mooooreish!

Score: 90+

Springbank 15 y.o. Maltbarn 2003, sherry cask, 48,9%

Comment: Sprinbank back on top with sheer quality and great oak usage – meaty ham, salt and spice, brine, maritime wind, cookies, brighter and darker fruits (peach, warmth of earth, plums, raisins, redcurrant), Parmigiano Reggiano and blue cheese. Tasty stuff.

Score: 91-

Caol Ila 14 y.o. Maltbarn 2004, 53,7%

Comment: A typical Caol Ila in the right age, very herbal, great palate and a very long finish. Good Islay quaffer!

Score: 88

Aroma: Wie bei vielen Finishes ist das Resultat eher im Geschmack zu finden, die Nose, zeigt den Rum nicht klar an. Dafür ist sie aber richtig fein, ein reif und rund wirkender Ardbeg mit seinen typischen Merkmalen steigt einem in die Nase: Trafobrand, Reifen, Seegras, Jod, salzige Seeluft, Torf, geröstete Kaffeebohnen, Gerbleder, Pfeffer, Chili, Schokolade, Erdnüsse, grüne Kräuter, Spinat, Dill und Aloe Vera. Volles Spektrum. Was hier anders erscheint als bei den klassischen Abfüllungen sind deutliche Kiefernzapfen, Harz, mehr Vanilleanteil mit etwas mehr Holz (keine Angst, der Dram bleibt „spirit-driven“) und ein tropischer Einschlag durch trockene Ananas, Blutorange und Limettensaft. Auch Datteln, Gras und warme Erde (Rindenmulch im Olivenhain) tragen zu diesem leicht süßeren Gesamtbild bei.

Geschmack: Ah, the rum is not gone – hier erkennt man seine Spuren deutlicher als zuvor, jedoch nie aufdringlich. Dieser Ardbeg ist milder und süßer im Antrunk, ohne seinen Charakter zu verlieren – wie ein schön frisierter und in ein Hawaiihemd gesteckter Islay-Fisherman mit Bart und Brusthaar. Ananas, Apfel, Zimt, Banane, Datteln, Olivenöl, Vanille, Kaffee, Leder, Bitterschokolade, Erde und Mulch sowie aromatischer Torfrauch mit Jod. Das ganze ist enorm trinkig und angenehm, Ardbeg für die Sonnenterrasse.

Nachklang: Auch hier kein Kastrat, sondern ein herrlich spaßiger Ardbeg, der keine einzige Offnote aufweist. Zugänglicher, verspielter, etwas leichter, aber dennoch mit Aussage, wie Kinski an einem guten Tag. Der Rum bringt die Jodsüße stärker heraus, angezündetes Streichholz für brennende Kiefernzapfen, Vanilla-Espresso am Strand von Port Ellen mit Torfschwaden im Hintergrund. Could you be loooved …? Indeed. Ich mag ihn.

Bewertung: 89

Rare 21 y.o. Select Cask

This bottling was done for and chosen by some real malt heads (see picture) who love their Lagavulin dearly. As it is a rare sensation that DIAGEO allows original bottlings for a certain group, this is a special gem. I am very excited and hope this is good (as it was really expensive). Let’s taste:

Comment: Holy…, OmG! This is great from the first whiff. I could smell this for hours and it touches my soul. No joke, this is probably the best nose I had in 2018, full score. Why such praise: very complex and interwoven balance, deep, all elements fit together, like a huge orchestra with all musicians playing yet no instrument takes centre stage. The Tannoy speakers of Lagavulin, full of peaty, medical and leathery goodness paired with maturity. Here we have the precise middle between cask and spirit influence, going hand in hand, not tired but refined – a maelstrom of peat, iodine and sweet wine from very elegant old-style wood, like only the greatest of the great have. 21 is an ideal age for the Lagavulin distillate of this cask type.

I am now getting Shisha tobacco, roasted peanuts, gunpowder tea, dates, bacon-wrapped plums, cedar-wrapped Romeo y Julieta in a mahogany humidor, mmmh, and mint, like having a Mojito in the back of an authentic old Cuban bar. More pleasures chime in: espresso macchiato, chalk, iodine, gorse, kelp, vanilla pod, cough syrup, BBQ-glazed baby back ribs after 12 hours of smoking, bonfire and the combo of good sulphury smoke and peat. Aaaah….

On the palate it doesn’t disappoint at all, yum, but I am almost glad that it doesn’t go on with perfection like before – otherwise I needed more bottles   It is more on the liqueur-side than expected and wins out when drunk in big sips because the body is slick and elegant, no bruiser. Water is not necessary. All the above elements are to be found, but leathery spice paves the way nicely. It somehow unites Lagavulin power with mild and smooth character traits in a slender body.

The finish is earthy and sweet at first, then lit matchstick, flinty gunpowder and an iodine-esque peatiness linger. What a treat and a worthy dram for the occasion – these are the moments … amazing pick, boys! A must-have for the devotee. Free refills, anyone?

Score: 94+

Thanks to Donnie and Boris for the sample.

SMWS 35.219 Glen Moray 2003 ex-Chardonnay Barrique 14 y.o., 57,2%

This is a Germany-exclusive release, also titled and described in German – nice. And it is a winner that was chosen by a jury of German connoisseurs. A very „mortlachy“ Glen Moray, I must say because it has quite some smoke, a dry meaty and sulphury edge and metallic undertones. Old wood notes meet grapes, mango, Peach, orange zest, muesli box, ginger and chili, coal, pine needles and Aperol Sprizz. Funny and interesting nose on the dry and malty side of things. On the palate it Shows greatness, very round and flawless. Malt and spice-combo leads to honey sweetness, fruits and wine – like a watercolor painting that hints at things in a subtle way. It finishes long and metallic with all the aroma’s reminiscences glowing up shortly. Water makes it sweeter and sends the chilis to the fore. Quite a ride, like on Autobahn A3 in heavy traffic

Score: 88

SMWS 35.194 Glen Moray 2001 ex-Oloroso 1st-fill, 16 y.o., 59,8%

I am sure this release will find little common ground. I find it fungi-flawed like many of these casks that only display sulphury raisins, blue cheese and grapey sweetness – no distillery character and complexity. However, some love it exactly for this profile.

The nose is intact: rich and malty nose, dark honey, oak, pistachio, mash, hints of fruit (apricots and gooseberries), sulphury raisins, Spanish vinegar, ginger, chili and ginger, coal, eucalypt, chocolate Lebkuchen, not too bad. However, on the palate it displays the described flaw. Raisins, blue cheese, flinty sulphur. the spices save it a bit from being too monodimensional. Water also helps. I declare the discussion on this one as open…

Score 83

SMWS 35.204 Glen Moray 2001 ex-Bourbon/new oak, 16 y.o., 58,9%

This one is much less debatable. It has quite some wine character on the one side and wood spice on the other, almost bordering on Bourbon territory (yet smoother). Nuts, vanilla, cloves, maple syrup, salted caramel, honey, figs, dates, sulphury raisins, oranges and sweet tobacco big time. On the palate the sherry starts to speak more, with hints of the fungi-problem, but also juicy aromas. No water needed.

Score: 87

This was an interesting head-to-head comparison. Now I am glad to also try other releases as well.

SMWS 5.60 Auchentoshan 2000 ex-Bourbon/Oloroso, 16 y.o., 56,5%

The most surprising one in this set, it is beguiling. What a great cask! Very much like an older Glen Keith in moments. So creamy and full of Bourbon cask goodness, aaah! Mango on creme brûlée, coconut and pineapple meet Werthers Originals toffee, gooseberries, linden blossom honey, ripe pear, roses, orange zest, cinnamon hazelnut, amoroso sherry, calvados, vin santo, Bailoni Apricot liqueur sweetness, full on! All he way to the end this is powerful, complex and well-balanced. A clear buy!

Score: 89-90

SMWS 68.11 Blair Athol 2009 ex-Bourbon 7 y.o., 57,9% 

Forest Floor in late autumn, aromatic and fresh, then it becomes a sweet pasty like a cinnamon sticky bun with nuts, Marzipan fruitcake, honey-glaze and dessert wine. Water makes it even sweeter, one for afternoon tea parties.

Score: 87

SMWS 66.104 Ardmore 2008 ex-Bourbon 8 y.o., 60,1%

I love Ardmore at all ages. The younger ones don’t dissappoint but are a bit greener and sweeter than predecessors from the direct firing period of distillation. This one reminds me of a Bunnahabhain Moine in the nose. Like having a green tea on a frehsly tarred road near to an Islay distillery. Ashtray smokiness and aromatic peat, herbs, Aloe, juniper, metal, BBQ-sauce, mustard seed, ginger, apples, black pepper and chili – a powerhouse. On the palate it is way sweeter and more comlex as one would think. Everything tightly woven together like a Tsunami of peaty whisky goodness plus some iodine. So balanced and refined, you want another glass. Wow. Another recommendation!

Score: 88-89

Glenrothes 10 y.o. The Shining Dram, from butt, 52,9%

Comment: I call this a greenhouse dram. I am getting floral elements, linseeds, orchard fruit (pear, apple, cider), green grapes, tomato plants, wet malt, pistachio, lemon zest and white pepper. All is in balance and a typical dram for ist age. Water opens it up a little more.

Score: 84

Glenrothes 20 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 51,5%

Comment: This older version is wonderfully fruity (already esters of tropical fruits like passion fruit, but also orchard apple, Haribo’s sour apple rings and orange zest). There also is a fresh mintiness. The dram is a great combo between sour fruit elements and woody spices with vanilla. Although the oak is a bit loud, the oily mouthfeel and apricot fruit reward the drinker manifold.

Score: 87

Ben Nevis 19 y.o. The Shining Dram, from Bourbon hogshead, 48,6%

Comment: To start with, this is one of the most unusual drams I ever had, hence very Ben Nevis (which I like). Yes, an awkward mix awaited me but it is very interesting and mind-boggling. It will find its lovers and haters. The spectrum of aromas consists of hazelnut bush, cereals, mashy youthfulness, canned coffee milk, sheep stable and ewe’s cheese, fresh paint, coal, cocoa powder and Indian curried pickles. On the palate it is a wild ride in unusual terrain of old wooden planks, persipan, and all of the above. Cool yet crazy. Give it a try!

Score: 87

Auchroisk 24 y.o. The Shining Dram, from Bourbon hogshead, 43,5%

Comment: A summer breeze high in the Alps, this is the headline here, Fragile but so complex and lovely. Great balance and maturity, floral lightness, like a summer wind in a flower dress on an ‚Alm‘. We also have fruitiness (kiwi, strawberry, Austrian apricot), coconut, iron, grass and vanilla cream. Very elegant and a must-have for fans of this profile. Big sips recommended.

Score: 90+

Blended Malt 23 y.o. The Shining Dram, from sherry hogshead, 51,1%

Comment: X-Mas cake (‚Christstollen‘ soaked), very juicy – the sherry is perfectly integrated and not dry, which is rare at this high intensity. Rumtopf, raisins, figs, cherries, blackberries, cinnamon, orange zest, dark Wood – all in balance and full expression. Stunner!

Score: 90+

Orkney Single Malt 12 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 50,6%

Comment: Give this one time and it will rock your world. Starts youthful and with great balance, then it becomes more mature. Mossy river, peaty Highland floor with heather, herbs, ozone, black pepper, juniper, sloe berry, hazelnut shrub, sweet malt, Turkish delight, white chocolate, litchi, kurkuma, olive oil and more. It tastes wonderful and manages to combine two worlds: lightness yet being heavily loaded with aromas. The malty sweetness and complexity in coastal style is breathtaking. Buy!

Score: 90

Caol Ila 10 y.o. The Shining Dram, from hogshead, 53,3%

Comment: A typical example, and a nice one too. Like a walk in a mediterranean olive grove with a glass of Islay Whisky. Oven fire gone out with spent coal, juniper, olives, resin, licorice, fishing boat (ropes, kelp, fish, seashell minerality, peat, ozone, green tea and Lemon chicken. On the palate it is well-balanced, spirit driven and naked, enticing! Flintiness joins in as well as a sweet oily maltiness. Pure Islay with finesse!

Score: 89

Overall, I am quite impressed with this debut. Well picked, Markus!

You can get these drams, prices and pictures on the website: www.theshiningdram.com

Glenrothes 20 y.o. malt mountains 1997 – 2017, sherry cask, 50,3%

Comment: Glenrothes ranks really high among blenders, and rightfully so. I also adore this malt with its bloodorange-tang. Oliver Späth already had a nice Glen Keith, Tobermory and the astonishing Bladnoch in his range, and this bottling is his latest. In this one, the sherry is dominant yet not overpowering, it goes in a balsamic direction altogether. There is more to it than just raisins, as some modern casks are these days. It is kirsch gateau (chocolate cake soaked in cherry schnaps) with hazelnuts and fudge, a dessert dram, earthy like a Glendronach but less dry, also whiffs of orange peel, humidor and cedar wood are to be nosed. On the palate it is very typical, a well-balanced sherry dram with blood orange and forest floor. Overall not overly complex but simply good at what it is and does. Long satisfying finish. Thanks Oliver! Good pick, again. Available here.

Score: 90+

Aultmore 33 y.o. OB ‚Exceptional Cask Series‘ for China Whisky Society 1983 – 2016, sherry cask finish, 678 btl., 53,3%

Comment: Don’t these new Aultmore bottles look beautiful (clear glass, that is), you wanna touch them. A rare one for China, let’s see: Oh my God, this is a monster of complexity: honey and hay meet the sweet side of oak – this what bursts out of the glass at first. Then licorice, honey, butter, sugar-glazed pastry, Werther’s Originals, vanilla and fruits (pink grapefruit, kiwi, plums, grapes) join a solid malty backbone of the classic kind (old style). After a while it reminds me of a walk in an olive garden in summer bloom, also ruccola and hot mulch. It arrives with great nervosity on the palate, quite some action is going on there. Like an aquarel painting all the aromatic dots are there but only hinted at. The interesting acidity is slowly becoming sweetness, everything happens in style and is well-integrated. Waves of tasty stuff return in the finish: sweet malt and pastry again (now with vanilla sauce), honey glace, green tea,  sycamore bark and so much more. Gimme a bottle! Thanks Boris!

Score: 92

Am 10.11.2016 trafen wir uns zum dritten Mal in gewohnter Viererrunde. Diesmal standen insgesamt 13 Drams auf dem Programm, mit priorisiertem Schwerpunkt auf die Brennerei Springbank, darunter die gesamte legendäre Millennium Range, der 64er Samaroli Sherry Dumpy sowie der 67er Prestonfield Single Sherry Cask 1472. Abgerundet wurde die herausragende Range durch einen 12-jährigen (sherrylastigen) Glenfarclas (ca. aus den 1950er Jahren), einen 73er Glenfarclas aus dem Bourbonfass, einen 40-jährigen Linkwood aus dem Jahr 1946 sowie den 32-jährigen offiziellen Laphroaig nebst einem uralten 10-jährigen Ardbeg (vermutlich abgefüllt noch in den 60ern) !

Das sensorische Vergnügen startete bereits durch die stärkende Mahlzeit vorab. Acht Stunden im Smoker zubereitete und wirklich sensationelle Spareribs (Danke Markus!) bildeten eine passende Grundlage um mit dem „Hauptgang“ zu beginnen.

Hier der Ausfluss unserer subjektiven Eindrücke:

1.)   Linkwood, ”Finest Highland Malt”, 40 yo, dist. 1946, 40%, 75cl, Sestante

Wieder einer dieser altehrwürdigen Malts, die das Attribut „Understatement“ (auch wenn man sich da wiederholen muss) verkörpern, wie keine zeitgenössischen Vertreter auch nur annähernd mehr dazu in der Lage sind. Wunderbar fragiles und reifes heimisches Kernobst (Williamsbirne, grüner Apfel), reife grüne Weintrauben, dazu Anklänge von Marzipan, Toffee und weißem Rum. Mit der Zeit gesellen sich auch dezente exotische Noten (Mango, Sternfrucht) dazu. Wunderbar verflochten und mit einer genialen Süße von türkischem Honig unterlegt. Es kommen Assoziationen von Malaga-Eis auf. Im Hintergrund immer wunderbar unterlegte Edelholz-Noten und ein Sherry-Einfluss, der in dieser Eleganz und Finesse nicht mehr zu finden ist. Die Struktur und der Gesamteindruck erscheinen für das Alter erstaunlich lebendig. So sind die häufig anzutreffenden Leder- und Holznuancen wunderbar dezent und zu keinem Zeitpunkt überfrachtend. Auch trifft man nahezu keine, bei vielen vor 1990 abgefüllten Malts anzutreffenden, „Old-Bottle-Noten“ an. Lediglich im Nachklang verflacht der Eindruck dann ein wenig, was aber dem Alter und den inzwischen verflogenen Volumen-% geschuldet ist. Ein wunderbar eleganter Einstieg mit einem Rückblick über inzwischen 70 (!) Jahre Whiskygeschichte….

K: 91   M: 90  H: 90   F: 91    à Schnitt: 90,50

2.)   Glenfarclas 1973 – 2015, 42 yo, 40,2%, Cadenhead “Authentic Collection”, 168 btl., Bourbon Cask

Und noch so ein betagter alter Herr, der allerdings erst letztes Jahr abgefüllt wurde. Trotz des Alters und der inzwischen geringen Fassstärke unglaublich lebendig-intensiver Bourbonfass-Einfluss mit allem, was so dazugehört (Vanillin-Backpulver, Rapshonig, sommerliche Blumenwiese). Dazu tolle Noten an überreifer Birne, Quitten-Marmelade und dahinter eine elegante Riesling-Mineralik. Mit der Zeit (und mehr Sauerstoff) gesellen sich feine Eindrücke an weißer Schokolade, süße Getreidenoten, Honigmet, Holunderblüten und eine Reihe an sommerlichen Kräutern (Thymian, Kamille und ein Hauch Fenchel) dazu. Die gesamte Aromenpalette wirkt wunderbar verspielt, grenzenlos samtig und harmonisch verflochten und weißt eine durchweg einnehmende Süße auf, die ihm eine geniale „Süffigkeit“ verleihen. Diese bleibt bis zum Ende hin in nachklingenden Bourbonfass-, Honig- und Obstkorb-Eindrücken erhalten. Ein weiteres wirklich sensationelles Cadenhead-Bottling, das zeigt, dass Glenfarclas auch  „ohne Sherry“ geht – und wie!

K: 91   M: 92  H: 91   F: 92    à Schnitt: 91,5

Nun folgt der eigentliche Kernbereich des heutigen Tastings. Die Springbank Millennium Range. 6 Drams im Alter von 25 bis zu 50 Jahren. Flüssige Geschichte. Aufgrund der geringen Volumenprozent der 40-, 45- und 50-jährigen Vertreter haben wir die Range vom Alter her absteigend verkostet (im Nachhinein eine gute Entscheidung!).

Leider muss man vorab sagen, dass es dem 50-, 45- und 40-Jährigen erheblich an Alkoholstärke mangelt (alle nur mit knapp über 40% abgefüllt), was sich leider merklich auf Geschmack, Abgang und Struktur auswirkt. Geschmacklich wirken alle drei „verwässert“ und strukturell „schwach auf der Brust“. Anhand der Grundstilistik und Aromenstruktur bietet also vorwiegend die Nase Orientierung. Der Geschmack kann bei keinem der drei Vertreter die Erwartungen, die die Nase geweckt hat, erfüllen und fällt deutlich ab.

3.)   Springbank 50 yo, OB, Limited Edition, “Millennium Bottling”, 40,5%, btl. 03/2001

Getragen von uralten Ledereindrücken und einer intensiv-charakteristischen Rauchigkeit, die jedoch von unfassbarer Finesse gezeichnet ist (keine phenolische Rauchigkeit, die man von vielen Islay-Vertretern gewohnt ist, mehr in Richtung erloschenem und abgekühlten Lagerfeuer und Holzkohle, aber ebenso beeindruckend, nur wesentlich filigraner). Alter Kohlenkeller, unglaublich metallisch (deutlich mehr als in den Folgejahrzehnten!), alter „Bulldogschuppen“ und Eindrücke einer Werkstatt mit abgestandenen Motorölbehältern, alte Schusterei (Leder- und Schuhleim). „Alt“ kann eigentlich vor alle Aromenkomponenten gesetzt werden. Mit der Zeit eine elegante Wachsigkeit, dezente Heidekrauttöne und eine wunderbare Brise an kühler Atlantikluft sowie langsam zutage tretende heimische Obst-Eindrücke (überreife gelbe Äpfel, Stachelbeere, grüne Weintrauben) und Grünmalznoten. Dazu schwingen im Hintergrund  immer Nuancen von muffigem Hochlandmoor an einem kalten Tag (Schottlandbesucher wissen, was gemeint ist) und einer feinen Salzbrise mit. Wirklich charakteristisch. Unterscheidet sich vollkommen von den Folgejahrzehnten. Der Geschmack lässt dieselbe Aromenstruktur erahnen, die die Nase bereits zeigt, fällt aber wie gesagt aufgrund der verlorenen Alkoholstärke deutlich ab und wirkt irgendwie „verwässert“ und substanzschwach.

Deshalb keine Gesamtwertung !

(Die Nase allein:        K: 92 M: 89 H: 89 F: 89                                                                                  à Geschmack und Körper deutlich schwächer !)

4.)   Springbank 45 yo, OB, Limited Edition, “Millennium Bottling”, 40,1%, btl. 09/2000

Wirklich sehr ähnliche Grundstruktur (die drei ältesten Vertreter der Millennium-Range ähneln sich von der Grundstruktur her merklich), jedoch lebendiger. Mehr Heidekraut- und Honigeinflüsse, mehr Eichenholzeindrücke (Vanille!) und Kernobst. Schafswolle (wirklich!), Buttertoffee, dafür die metallisch-maschinellen Komponenten zurückhaltender, weniger Kohle, etwas mehr an Malz- und Getreideaspekten sowie erste Anklänge der später so berühmten Kokos-Aromatik. Insgesamt „weicher“ und einen Hauch weniger maritim, aber immer noch die für diese Zeit bei Springbank typische Grundcharakteristik, die beim 50er ebenso vorzufinden war. Das Ganze einfach subtiler und verspielter. Der Geschmack weist zwar mehr Frucht und Süße auf, leidet aber wiederum merklich an den dürftigen  Vol.%, weshalb wir auch hier kein Gesamtwertung vornehmen, sondern nur die Nase bewerten !

(Nase:                         K: 89 M: 90 H: 88 F: 90                                                                                  à Geschmack und Körper wiederum deutlich schwächer!)

5.)   Springbank 40 yo, OB, Limited Edition, “Millennium Bottling”, 40,1%, btl. 03/2000

Die Tendenz hin zu der klassischen 60er Jahre Charakteristik bei Springbank zeichnet sich im Hinblick auf die zwar präsenten, aber dezenter zutage tretenden metallischen Noten und die filigraner eingebundene Kohlenrauchigkeit weiter ab. Bei dieser Abfüllung dafür wieder etwas mehr an Atlantikbrise, dazu mehr an sommerlichen Kräutern (Thymian, Kamille – erinnert an helle Honig-Kräuterbonbons), zudem dezente Marillen- und Birneneindrücke. Wiederum dezente Anklänge der spätestens ab Mitte der 60er so bekannten Kokoseindrücke und eine erste Idee an Edelschinken. Dieser Vertreter weißt auch im Geschmack eine feiner strukturierte Süße und noch mehr an fruchtigen Eindrücken auf, weniger metallisch, mehr an Holzeinfluss. Wirkt trotz fehlender Vol.% nicht mehr ganz so „verwässert“ wie die beiden Vorgänger, Alkoholstärke ist dennoch auch hier deutlich zu vermissen. Deshalb bleiben wir (auch fairnesshalber) nur bei der Beschreibung der Grundeindrücke und geben auch hier wiederum keine Gesamtwertung ab.

(Die Nase allein:        K: 86 M: 87 H: 86 F: 88                                                                                  à Geschmack und Körper erneut schwächer!)

Grundsätzlich lässt sich festhalten, dass man vom 50er über den 45er bis hin zum 40er eine plausible Zeitreise und Fortentwicklung zur Stilistik der berühmten 60er Jahre durchmacht. Welcher der drei Genannten einem nun am besten gefällt, ist reine Geschmackssache. Alle haben – zumindest von der Nase her – jeweils etwas für sich, wenngleich sie sich sehr ähneln. Geschmack und Auftritt sind aufgrund der Alkoholschwäche ernüchternd. Ein Erlebnis bleiben die Eindrücke und Erfahrungswerte aber trotzdem!

Im Gesamten kann man konstatieren, dass sich die Qualität in keiner Weise mit der der drei sherrylastigeren Abfüllungen (25er, 30er und 35er) aus der Range messen lässt. Diese bewegen sich aus unserer Sicht (unabhängig vom Alkoholgehalt) auf einem ganz anderen Niveau und zeigen, wozu Springbank qualitativ in der Lage war!

Nach einer stärkenden Zwischenmahlzeit (ebenso sensationelle Rinderbrust vom Kohlegrill… Danke an Markus Master Chef!) wurde die Sensorik mit folgendem Single Malt wieder auf Touren gebracht:

6.)   J & G Grant (Glenfarclas) 12 yo, “Malt Scotch Whisky – From the Glenlivet District”, OB, Grant Bonding Co. Ltd. Elgin, 40%, 75cl (btl. ~ 1960ies), “dumpy cube bottle”

Gewürzmühle und Candyshop in Einem! Sofort eine charakteristische Note von Erdbeer-Rhabarber – Torte mit Vanillecreme (kein Scherz!). Dazu gebrannte Mandeln, Maroni, herber werdende Anklänge von Schwarztee und grünem Tee, alter Ledersattel, Zypressenholz, Zitronenmelisse und Orangenabrieb. Es gesellen sich tolle Eindrücke von feuchtem Pfeifentabak und grünem Pfeffer dazu. Die Süße wird zum einen von „altem“ Sherry und Weintrauben (erinnert in dieser Hinsicht an fragile alte Cognacs), zum anderen von karamellisierten dunklen Früchten und Zuckerrohr getragen. Das alles geht ein wirklich lebendiges Wechselspiel mit Röstaromen (wie man sie aus einer alten gusseisernen Pfanne her kennt), dezentem Glühweingewürz sowie klassischen Backzutaten (Zitronat/Orangeat) ein. Die bis zum Ende hin anhaltende und in feine Bitterkeit übergehende Würzigkeit erinnert an die charakteristischen Mizunara-Holz-Einflüsse, die man aus japanischen Whiskies kennt. Wirklich beeindruckend. Ein Malt, der Ansprüche stellt und trotz des Alters und der geringen Alkoholstärke eine erstaunliche Wucht und Vitalität aufweist. Hat wirklich Alleinstellungscharakter!

K: 92   M: 90  H: 91   F: 90    à Schnitt: 90,75

Im Folgenden konnte es wieder weitergehen mit dem zweiten (und viel besseren) Teil der „Millennium Range“…

1.)   Springbank 25 yo, OB, Limited Edition, “Millennium Bottling”, 46%, btl. 09/1998

Vorab: ein typischer Springbank von Anfang der 70er Jahre, der strukturell eine wunderbare „Mitte“ zwischen Brennereicharakter und Sherry-Einfluss aufweist.

Feine brennereitypische aber sehr elegante mineralisch-metallische Noten, dezent maritim mit kühler Atlantikluft, und einer entfernten „kalten“ Rauchigkeit. Feine Eichenholzstrukturen mit den typischen Vanille- u. Honignuancen sowie Buttertoffee, Getreidefeld mit Kornblumen und sommerlichen Kräutern wie Kamille und etwas Thymian. Dazu dann fruchtige Eindrücke an reifem heimischen Obst (Äpfel, Birnen, Quitten). Dahinter zeigen sich in schön ausgewogenem Verhältnis feingliedrige Sherryeinflüsse mit Mandarinen, ersten Anklängen von Lebkuchengewürz (mit einem Hauch von Zimt und Nelke) und dezenten Nuancen der sherrytypischen Fruchteindrücke wie Datteln, Feigen und Pflaumen. Der gesamte Auftritt wird von einer tollen karamellisierten Süße getragen, die wiederum eine feine Ausgewogenheit zwischen Sherry- und Bourboncharakteristik aufweist (neben den Beereneindrücken bliebt also auch Raum für z.B. zitruslastige Aspekte und Obst). Wirklich schön balanciert! Am Ende dann eine edle und wiederum sehr dezente Bitterkeit, die wunderbar von feingliedrigen maschinell-mineralischen Elementen getragen wird.

Fazit: der 25er (obwohl ja der jüngste der 6 Bottlings der Reihe) stellt geschmacklich und von der Nase her einen Übergang zwischen den metallisch-bourbonlastigen 50er, 45er und 40er Abfüllungen, hin zu den sherrylastigen 30er und 35er Springbanks dar, obwohl er ja zeitlich aus der letzten Brennperiode (Anfang der 70er) stammt. Das verleiht ihm jedoch in gewisser Weise ein sehr interessantes Alleinstellungsmerkmal.

K: 91   M: 89  H: 88   F: 92    à Schnitt: 90

2.)   Springbank 30 yo, OB, Limited Edition, “Millennium Bottling”, 46% (btl. 03/1999)

Den hatten wir ja bereits beim letzten Tasting, wo er mit durchschnittlich 94,5 Pkt. einer der absoluten Gewinner war…. Deshalb verweisen wir an der Stelle auch auf die Notes und ergänzen sie an dieser Stelle lediglich…

Immens mundschmeichelnde Süße aus dunkelsten Sherryfässern. Wellen an dunklen Früchten, wunderbare Herrenzimmer-Eindrücke (Tabak, Leder, Edelholz). Dazu durchgehend eine einnehmende Süße von roten Beeren, eine Idee an Erdbeer-Vanille Marmelade, Backpflaumen, Kirsch-, Blaubeer- und Brombeereindrücke. Im Hintergrund ein Hauch an Kokos, Anklänge von italienischem Edelschinken und ganz subtile springbanktypische Küsten-Aromatik (jedoch sehr dezent). Dazu wunderbar ausgewogen-elegante metallische Eindrücke, allerdings nicht ganz so intensiv wie bei den noch betagteren Vorgängern.  Zum Ende hin machen sich die satten Sherrynoten dann noch bemerkbarer und es treten ein intensiverer Eichenholzeinfluss sowie kräftigere Gewürzkomponenten (Balsamico-Eindrücke, deutliche Kräuter wie u.a. Dill und Weihnachtsgewürze) hinzu, die von der sherrybedingten Trockenheit begleitet werden. Mehr gibt es eigentlich nicht zu sagen. Ein wirklich ganz großer Sherrymalt, wie man sich ihn nur wünschen kann !

K: 93   M: 93  H: 94   F: 94    à Schnitt: 93,5 (beim letzten Tasting: 94,5)

3.)   Springbank 35 yo, OB, Limited Edition, “Millennium Bottling”, 46% (btl. 09/1999)

Der 35er baut in seiner Grundcharakteristik absolut auf dem 30er auf. Hier handelt es sich wiederum um dunkelsten „Edel-Sherry-Springbank“ aus Mitte der 60er Jahre. Die Destillate sind somit älter als die legendären Local Barley Abfüllungen und stammen somit ebenso noch aus der Zeit, als das Malz bei Springbank noch mit Kohle aus den Kohleminen nahe Campbeltown gedarrt wurde. Somit hat man allein deshalb schon einen Malt im Glas, der – im Gegensatz zum zeitgenössisch inflationären Gebrauch der Begrifflichkeit – die Bezeichnung „ultra rare“ wirklich verdient hat. Nase, Gaumen, Abgang und Struktur erfüllen die damit verknüpften Erwartungen auch in jeder Hinsicht. Die bereits beim 30er sensationell speicheltreibende Intensität der Sherryfässer wird von einer noch größeren Eleganz auf ein nochmal höheres Level gehoben. Zum einen intensivere Aromen an dunkelsten Früchten (Süß- u. Sauerkirschen, Brombeeren, Blaubeeren, dazu Dattel, Feigen), Weihnachtsgebäck, Ledercouch, Tabakbox, Edelschinken, Bacon und Bratpfanneneindrücken. Zum anderen eine edlere Verflechtung der Aromenpalette. Die einnehmende Süße wird zudem von wunderbaren karamellisierten Süd- und Kernfrüchten getragen, die von feinsten Kokosnuancen unterlegt werden und somit einen exotischen „Touch“ ins Aromenspiel mit einbringen, wie es bei solchen „Sherry-Monstern“ nur sehr selten und auch nur bei ganz alten Vertretern der Fall ist. Die typisch metallischen Werkstatteindrücke bilden zusammen mit einer dezenten Küstenbrise und einer unfassbar edlen kohlegetragenen Rauchigkeit einen genial-komplexen „Bilderrahmen“. Das gesamte Aromenspektrum zieht sich so von Nase bis Abgang in einem Strang durch und lässt keine Wünsche offen. Herausragend zeigt sich die Struktur auch deshalb, da trotz des „fetten“ Sherry-Einflusses immer wieder auch Reminiszenzen von uralten Cognacs und Armagnacs durchblitzen, was die enorme Bandbreite und Finesse verdeutlicht. Ein Sherry-Gigant – wenn man so will eine „Whisky-Kathedrale““ ! Pit Krause würde sagen: „Ein Malt wie ein Mischpult, bei dem alle Regler voll aufgedreht sind!“ Besser kann man es nicht sagen… MALZPORNOGRAFIE !

K: 96   M: 95  H: 97   F: 97    à Schnitt: 96,25

Fazit bzgl. der Millennium-Range:

Die inzwischen aufgerufenen abertausenden von Euro können der 50er, 45er und 40er qualitativ in keiner Weise mehr rechtfertigen, wenn man den Maßstab „Getränk“ ansetzt. Hierbei geht es sicher nur mehr um reinen Sammleraspekt. Die gute Nachricht für Whiskytrinker ist, dass sich niemand grämen muss, sich die drei Abfüllungen nicht mehr leisten zu können, da sie geschmacklich und in Anbetracht der damit verknüpften Erwartungshaltung wirklich nicht mehr erstrebenswert – ja sogar unterdurchschnittlich – sind. Man muss ihnen also wirklich keine Träne nachweinen… Da sind wenige hundert Euro für exklusivere zeitgenössische Abfüllungen (wenn auch nach wie vor viel Geld) sicher um ein Vielfaches besser angelegt, wenn man Preis und Qualität in Relation setzt. Bzgl. der Erfahrungswerte und aus emotionaler Sicht, sind die drei allerdings über jeden Zweifel erhaben. Wenn man sich mit der Nase auseinandersetzt und diese dann über die im Geschmack noch zu erahnende Ausgangscharakteristik dieser Brennperiode legt, kann man jedoch nach wie vor eine Reise in die frühen und späten 50er unternehmen, in denen sich die Springbanks strukturell und geschmacklich merklich von den Folgejahrzehnten unterscheiden. Als Referenz- und Vergleichsgrundlage also in jedem Falle ein Erlebnis. Wenn man die Springbank-Charakteristik dieser Zeit dennoch mal im Glas haben möchte, sollte man eher auf die alten Vertreter in der gedrungenen „Pearshape Bottle“ zurückgreifen, die in den 60ern bzw. 70ern abgefüllt wurden. Preislich und qualitativ wirklich besser !

Die anderen drei Abfüllungen aus Mitte der 60er bis Mitte der 70er werden dem Weltruhm der Brennerei in deren qualitativ sicher besten Jahrzehnt dann mehr als gerecht und bilden wunderbare Beispiele, warum die Brennerei im Ruf steht, in diesem Zeitraum mit das Beste hergestellt zu haben, was es jemals an Whisky gab. Insbesondere der 30er und 35er gehören zu den besten Sherry-Abfüllungen, die wir jemals verkosten durften.

Um qualitativ und sensorisch danach nicht in ein schwarzes Loch zu fallen, blieben wir an der Stelle einfach auf dem Level der Vorgänger-Abfüllungen….

10.)      Springbank 15 yo, 09/1964 – 10/1979, Cadenhead for Samaroli, old brown dumpy            bottle, screw cap, 45,7%, 75 cl

Unfassbar, von welcher Qualität ein Malt mit 15 Jahren zu dieser Zeit noch daherkam und ein weiteres Mysterium, wie es die alten Italiener verstanden haben, an solche Fässer zu gelangen!  Flüssiges Sherry-Understatement zum niederknien! Rum-Kugel, Akazienhonig, Süßkirschen, Rosinen, Orangenzeste und Mangoeindrücke in ausgewogenster und komplexester Machart. Heimisches Obst meets Exotik! Dazu Kakaonuancen, unglaublich dezente Glühweingewürze (ein Hauch von Nelke, Zimt, Muskat), Orangeat und Zitronat. Kein Breitseiten-Sherry wie bei den gut doppelt so lange gereiften Vorgängern, sondern subtiler, verspielter. Sensationelle Verflechtung der genannten Aromen mit Leinensackeindrücken, „Maschinenhalle auf Understatement“, edelste Lederbände und Tabakblätter, dazu Teak-Holzboden und eine genial zurückhaltende kohlelastige Rauchigkeit im Hintergrund. Ebenso schwingen im Hintergrund immer wieder die berühmten Kokosnuancen und Eindrücke von italienischem Edelschinken mit. Der Abgang weißt eine wunderbare Präsenz aller Aromen auf und mündet in wunderbare sherry- und fruchtgetränkte Edelholzeindrücke. Ein unfassbar eleganter Gentleman, der erkundet und verstanden werden will. Ein weiterer dieser unwiederbringlichen Championsleague-Malts aus bester Zeit. Lediglich in puncto Breite und Tiefe liegen die über 30 jährigen Zeitgenossen (z.B. 35er Millennium, 31er Cadenhead Chairman´s aus den 60ern etc.) noch eine Nasenlänge vorne, was bei der gut doppelten Reifezeit im Fass aber nur folgerichtig erscheint. Was da Anfang und Mitte der 60er bei Springbank an (Sherry-) Bottlings kreiert wurde, sucht nach wie vor seinesgleichen…

K: 96   M: 93  H: 94   F: 95    à Schnitt: 94,5

Und wo´s doch so schön war, gleich noch ein berühmter Springbank aus der obersten Liga…

11.)      Springbank 20 yo, dist. 18.04.1967, Signatory “The Prestonfield”, Single Sherry Cask   #1472, 46%

Strukturell wieder ein schleichender Wandel in Richtung Charakteristik der späten 60er und frühen 70er Springbanks. Anders, aber nach wie vor herausragend gut! Immer weniger metallische Eindrücke, weniger Edelschinken und weniger jodige Küstenaromatik. Durchweg intensive Sherryeindrücke (mit all den bekannten und bereits genannten dunklen Beeren), die aber mehr Raum für exotische Fruchteinschläge lassen. Wunderbare fruchtig-süße Noten an Mango, Physalis und Bananen, dazu Weintrauben und Erdbeermarmelade. Außerdem mehr Kokoseinflüsse. Das alles in einnehmender Symbiose zum Sherry. Wirklich beeindruckend und enorm süffig! Mehr an vanillegetränkten Holznuancen, Mandeln und Marzipan, sowie süße Noten an türkischem Honig mit Pistazien, Datteln, Backzutaten (wiederum Zitronat und Orangeat) und Zuckerwatte. Mit der Zeit unterlegt durch eine feine und sehr dezente Gewürzaromatik (Anis-Anklänge, Assoziationen von Liebstöckl und Kardamon – aber wirklich nur ganz dezent angedeutet). Die ledrigen Eindrücke und Tabaknoten treten dafür ggü. den Vorgängern weiter in den Hintergrund. Trotz der Farbe ein unglaublich „jugendlich-fruchtiger“ Sherryeindruck, der wunderbar Raum für diverse sekundäre Fruchtaromen zulässt und sich nie überlagernd bemerkbar macht. Ein weiterer sensationeller Sherry-Springer aus den späteren 60ern…

K: 96   M: 95  H: 96   F: 95    à Schnitt: 95,5

Die gesamte Reihe an herausragenden Springbank-Bottlings im Line-up war nicht nur wegen der sensorisch qualitativ herausragenden Aspekte ein unvergessliches Erlebnis, sondern im Speziellen auch wg. der damit verknüpften einmaligen Gelegenheit, eine Zeitreise von den frühen 50ern bis Mitte der 70er Jahre zu durchleben und die Entwicklung der Grundcharakteristika der Destillate stringent nachzuverfolgen. Wirklich einmalig !

            Zum Ausklang des Abends folgten dann noch zwei namhafte Vertreter der Islay-Fraktion…

12.)      Laphroaig, 32 yo, btl. 2015, OB, Sherry Cask matured, 46,6%, 5880 btl.

            Der zugrundeliegende Sherryeinfluss tritt eher dezent zutage. Die 32 Jahre überraschen eher, sowohl an Nase als auch Gaumen. Eindringliche Malzigkeit (feuchter Malzboden), dazu getrocknetes Dörrfleisch, dezente Gumminoten, erloschene Asche im Hintergrund. Mit der Zeit kommen dann Eindrücke von süßer BBQ-Marinade, Honigmet und Gewürzaromen von grünem Pfeffer und Kreuzkümmel hindurch. Schwarzwälder Schinken, dahinter Jodluft und eine feuchte Atlantikbrise. Am Anfang wird die Geschmacksstruktur von einer tollen jodig-öligen Süße getragen, die von Räucherschinken, feuchtem Treibholz, Grünmalz, Lampenöl und Holzpolitur ergänzt wird. Der Geschmack verflacht dann aber für einen 32-Jährigen Single Malt erstaunlich schnell und wirkt zum Ende hin etwas „schwach auf der Brust“, worunter Gesamteindruck und Komplexität merklich leiden. Die beim Händler inzwischen aufgerufenen 1200 bis 1500 Euro erscheinen vor diesem Hintergrund aberwitzig…. Da sind einige hundert Euro für alte Islay-Standards aus 70ern und 80ern deutlich besser angelegt, sofern man seine Finger da noch dran bekommt!

            K: 88   M: 88  H: 88   F: 89    à Schnitt: 88,25

13.)      Ardbeg, 10 yo, OB, green tall bottle / white label with black letters “Old Islay Malt Scotch Whisky – Ardbeg Distillery Limited – Islay”, white screw cap, 26 ½ Fl. OZS., 80 Proof, btl. ~ 60ies

Da haben wir sie wieder: Die gute alte Küstenpornografie! Islay-Emulsion auf genialstem Understatement. Vor allen Komponenten kann man die Attribute „edel“ und „elegant“ setzen. Traumhafte jodige Seebrise, feinste Torfraucheindrücke, die im Wechselspiel immer wieder verschwinden und wieder zutage treten. Ein hin- und herwogen, wie die See. Seetang an einem frischen Frühlingsmorgen, Lampenöl, frisch poliertes Schiffsdeck mit feinsten Holzplanken und Schiffstau. Das Ganze einnehmend ölig verflochten mit wunderbar süßen zitruslastigen Aspekten an Zitronengras, hellen Weintrauben, Stachelbeeren, Sternfrucht und Honigmet. Der Gesamteindruck klingt dann anhaltend in eine wunderbar elegante Konzentration von ölig-süßen Nuancen, Seeluftaromatik und langsam abkühlender Torfglut aus. Traumhaft und auf den Punkt! Unwiederbringliche Qualität aus verflossener Zeit…

K: 94   M: 90  H: 93   F: 94    à Schnitt: 92,75

Ein würdiges Ende eines wiederum sensorisch unvergesslichen Slowdrink-Abends. Wir hoffen, der ein oder andere findet sich in unseren subjektiven Eindrücken wieder oder kann für sich die ein oder andere interessante Information aus ihnen ziehen…

In diesem Sinne,

Slainté

Kerstin, Markus, Heiko und Flo

Comment: It is like comparing a hamburger with a cheeseburger. Basically we have the same aromas in the nose, but one has a bit more depth. Guess which – the cask strength version – but the difference is rather narrow. A typical Ardbeg without any offnote, old-style with bitumen, soot, peat, iodine, leather, white pepper and chili, mustard seed, tires after a burnout, coffee, nettles, plums and such, still spirit-driven but the sherry casks render a nice and fitting addition with dark allusions . The little brother can hold its own, it has just a bit less intensity (esp. in terms of leather and iodine). Kudos, Ardbeg – recommended!

Score: 89

Nose: Very round, holding back at first – not a loud and aggressive one, finesse is the key. It reminds me of long-gone expressions, which is a good thing: no green notes or aloe vera. Absolutely well-matured, but not in your face. Classic Ardbeg. The sherry had a nice polishing effect without causing a loss the spirit-driven character too much (not a modern make-up). Aside from the softened peat-sulphur-iodine combo I am getting campfire, chocolate cake and coffee immediately, then suede and leather shoes, mustard seed, pepper, chili, Nicaragua tobacco leaf, dates and sultanas, lime zest and the typical aromas associated with Ardbeg. The heat of peppery notes renders a nice counterpart to the sweetness without standing out too much.

Palate: Velvety and smoother than your average Kildalton dram. Softly it coats your mouth for a while, then a peppery bite, brine near the sea, cocoa, really stylish. But you need to take big sips to fully grasp the experience. Lovers of powerful drams might be disappointed a bit, but if you are into harmony without any offnote, this is your choice. I dig this style. Having worked with several Ardbegs in sherry casks myself, I found the effect the very same: raw power turns into mature sweet complexity in the mouth but Islay is still enough there. It is not a weakling. The drinkability is off the chart, but a lower abv might hurt it. We’ll see at what strength the regular version will be bottled.

Finish: Darn good, really seductive, leaving you wishing for more. Flints, soot, sweet peat (does that exist?), iodine, embers, growing bigger by the minute. Kudos, a nice addition to the core range. Chimney sweeper’s delight!

Score: 90

Miltonduff 30 y.o. First Editions 1982, 48,3%

Comment: Very complex and tightly knit. Loads of bright and dark fruits (e.g. sloe, cherry, plum, peach, maracuja), cream and old oak in perfect balance. Another great Miltonduff by them!

Score: 90

Dailuaine 28 y.o. First Editions 1994, 49,2%

Comment: A real fruit basket (tropical and orchard-like in one), led by grapefruit, pineapple and vanilla. Marzipan, pistacchio, Cole Slaw and German Krautsalat and well-integrated spice (pepper, chili). It tastes almondy and creamy with all the elements mentioned. The oak is not too loud, great nutty flavour in the finish. Kudos.

Score: 89+

Glen Garioch 24 y.o. First Editions 1990, 56,8%

Comment: The freshness of the Eastern Highlands with medium smokiness, aaaahh. Minerality at first, then it becomes alive. Traces of agave (Scottish mezcal), milk and cheese, burning rosemary and mentholated elements, discrete fruits, grapes, pina colada, acidity and so much more. On the palate it is very round with the smoke adding a layer of complexity. Mossy, too. A stunner and my favourite in the batch.

Score: 90

Inchgower 19 y.o. First Editions 1995, Sherry Butt, 54,8%

Comment: This one needs water, then it unfolds beautifully. Sherry meets spice, dark chocolate, dark fruits (prunes, cherries, etc.), earthiness, gingerbread.

Score: 88-

Tobermory 18 y.o. First Editions 1995, Sherry Cask, 51,9%

Comment: Aromatic and fruity, discrete smoke, leather, apple, quince, traces of raisins and red grapes, quite spicy altogether, als a whiff of stable. It tastes even better than the nose suggests, the sherry is more pronounced here, a spicebox.

Sccore: 87+

Tormore 26 y.o. First Editions 1988, Sherry Butt, 57,1%

Comment: Creme Brulee, X-Mas-Cake, sweet and sherried.

Score: 86

Glengoyne 18 y.o. First Editions 1996, 50,3%

Comment: Orchard fruit and mash, apple juice, quince.

Score: 85

Blair Athol 19 y.o. First Editions 1995, Shery Butt, 54,4%

Comment: An aperitif, bitter and leafy, sherried, unusual, also slightly cheesy. Some Blair Athol turn this way after about 20 years in sherry casks, as seen with a Signatory version. Something for a change to start your session, but not for everyone.

Score: 84

Mortlach 9 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2004, Refill Hogshead, 46%

Comment: This pale and malty dram tastes exactly like a raw peppered steak with spinach on the side. We also got apricot and peach, morello cherry and sandalwood aromas. Steely Dram (sorry, Steely Dan!)

Score: 84

Longmorn 11 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2003 – 2014, Bourbon Barrel, 46%

Comment: Their best release so far! What a fruitbasket with incredible maturity after these years (it already displays dextrosity). Coconut, vanilla, pineapple, passion fruit, gooseberries, pear, lemons, elderflower combined with white chocolate, tinned milk, honeysuckle and toffee. Creamy and voluptuous mouthfeel, a sour-fruity and baroque Longmorn, Speyside goes Caribbean.

Score: 90

Glengoyne 7 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2007 – 2014, Refill Sherry, 46%

Comment: This dram is somewhat tragic because it has great potential but was bottled way too early (baby murder, so to speak) as it is very green, mashy and close to a new make. Nevertheless there is complexity and some weight already: apple compote, sour apple mash (like in a cider factory), autumnal flowers, kiwi, Haribo peach gums, honey, pistachio and candy floss – this would have been amazing some years in the future. Now it is interesting but not there yet.

Score: 76

Miltonduff 7 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2007 – 2014, Refill Butt, 46%

Comment: This one stands like a champion for its young age, especially on the palate. A wonderful sherry influence on a medium dry and flowery base. Don’t rush this Miltonduff! One can detect dried flowers, hay, blood oranges, bergamotte, lit sandwood sticks, tinned coffee cream, some oak and good acidity. The finish leaves you craving for more.

Score: 88

Auchroisk 12 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2001, Refill Hogshead, 46%

Comment: A very unsusual whisky, in parts it reminds me of mezcal (agave, white pepper) and steely gins (juniper). Quite dry and austere, lots of hay, celeriac, wet earth, chili, leather and peaches. Malt for Mexicans. Bring out the Mariachi.

Score: 80

Caol Ila 5 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2008 – 2014, Refill Hogshead, 414 btl., 46%

Comment: A typical and fresh Caol Ila that surprises me (only five years old) – peat, twig smoke, olive oil, juniper, lemon, chalk, mint, nettles, pepper and spice in the nose. Only the taste reveals its youth with greener elements ans some mash. Nice finish.

Score: 86

Laphroaig 11 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2002 – 2014, Refill Hogshead, 151 btl., 46%

Comment: It is one of these green-banana-like Laphs (like original bottlings these days, which often perform less good than indie bottlings), limestone, green tea, peat smoke and old port aromas. Some might love this more than I do. A solid Islay dram though.

Score: 86+

There also is a Talisker 6 y.o. from 2008 in the new range – it is not a green as one would think, already a typical maritime beach-BBQ dram, way better than Storm (86 points).

Glentauchers 8 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2005 – 2014, sherry butt, 310 btl., 46%

Comment: A creamy and fat dram with a wonderful sherry influence (Pedro Ximenez?) and counterbalancing spice combo. I am getting maraschino cherries and cherry juice, ginger bread, tangerine, fudge (Werther’s Echte) and vanilla. My favourite in this batch.

Score: 89

Fettercairn 8 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2005 – 2014, refill hogshead, 377 btl., 46%

Comment: A malty and nutty whisky that still has some green elements of shrub wood. The leading aromas are toffee, apples and pears, pineapple, dried flowers and CO2 carbonation smells (yes, unusual).

Score: 83

Glenallachie 9 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2005 – 2014, sherry butt, 299 btl., 46%

Comment: Something went wrong in filtering this one, it is a bit cloudy, but this doesn’t impact the flavour. Raisins, dates and sherry cask aromas dominate the nose (better than the palate), a Christmas cake with peppery and fresh elements as well, good balance, but not very complex.

Score: 84

Braeval 12 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2001 – 2014, sherry butt, 660 btl., 46%

Comment: Hello smoke, peat and moss, I didn’t expect you in this concentration. A complex and powerful yet elegant dram with goarse, sweet fruits (maraschino) and apricots plus the ‚Island-esque‘ touch on the side. A great learning experience, hard to guess in a blind tasting.

Score: 87

Glen Grant 10 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2004 – 2014, refill hogshead, 390 btl., 46%

Comment: A very typical example of this reliable distillery. Nicely fruity, mature and fat with quite some bourbon cask influence, like a cream toffee. There are traces of tropical fruits and dextrose in the aroma while the palate seems to be spicier and greener than the nose suggested.

Score: 85

Dailuaine 8 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2005 – 2014, sherry butt, 393 btl., 46%

Comment: A good nose, although a bit on the raisiny side of the sherry world. This is a round and sweet dram with good integration of cristalline flavours and some more spice on the palate than I expected, already mature.

Score: 86

Blair Athol 11 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2002 – 2014, refill hogshead, 421 btl., 46%

Comment: Its predecessor was a winner and this one doesn’t fail either with this discrete Highland understatement. Soft, round and complex (like me) displaying notes of moss, tea, pear, vineyard peaches paired with good acidity. A real steal.

Score: 88

Glencadam 10 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2004 – 2014, refill hogshead, 46%

Comment: Mashy and malty start, the leading aromas are pear (!), caramel, vanilla, nougat, coffee, oak, ginger bread, pistachio and flowers. With time, Asian spice and fruity elements surface.

Score: 85

Tamdhu 12 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2001 – 2014, refill hogshead, 153 btl., 46%

Comment: Tarte tatin (Calvados)! Funny at first, a round and sweet dram with good length. After the ‚tarty‘ start it settles to reveal dough, caramel, moss, green grapes, canned pears, malt, ginger, almonds, white oak and white pepper.

Score: 84

Jura 8 y.o. Hepburn’s Choice 2006 – 2014, refill butt, 598 btl., 46%

Comment: Quite complex for its age – leather, spices (chili, too), mashy malt, coffee, maritime ozone, joghurt, pistachio, polished oak, peaches and more.

Score: 86

Ledaig 6 y.o.  Hepburn’s Choice 2008 – 2014, refill hogshead, 46%

Comment: As a fan of Ledaig, I was curious to try a younger vintage before the often released 2005. This one is still close to a new make (wild ride, baby), but with huge potential. Despite its young vegetal peatiness, the emerging complexity already shines through: shoe shine, iodine, suede, green apples and smoke are leading elements. These 2008 Ledaigs seem to be as peaty as 2005, maybe even more phenol ppm in action. Promising stuff.

Score: 86

After these releases came out, there also were a young Talisker, Caol Ila and a Laphroaig, all of which I haven’t tried yet. Overall, these drams without colouring (not chill-filtered) are a reasonable choice among the many ’no age statement‘ or finished bottlings we see at weird prices these days, I think. Honest stuff, nothing fancy, some better, some worse, but real whisky to understand the product without mascerade – which we like.

Glen Spey 25 y.o. Archives 1988 – 2014, Bourbon Hogshead 356079, 163 btl., 47,3%

Comment: On the nose the motto is ‚white oak meets fruit basket‘ filled with apple, pineapple and peaches (also like Haribo sweets). Turkish delight, hazelbush branches and creamy vanilla (like a pudding) join in. It is very mild and balanced on the palate, the oak is less loud than expected. Berries and peaches display maturity and lead the way towards a medium length finish.

Score: 89

Glen Keith 21 y.o. Archives 1992 – 2014, Bourbon Barrel 120599, 218 btl., 51,5%

Comment: This one holds back at first, but after a little time it unfolds. It seems a bit reduced at first, but the quality of this creme brulee dram is high – as always with Glen Keith. No other distillate translates Bourbon cask aromas so well into the Scottish realm these days. Over all, a typical but shy Glen Keith (compare to our other reviews) with a long finish.

Score: 89

Bunnahabhain 23 y.o. Archives 1990 – 2014, Sherry butt 52, 201 btl., 47,9%

Comment: My favourite dram of the bunch and a real stunner. Archives had great releases of Bunnahabhain so far but this one beats them easily – not another raisiny over-sherried Bunna from treated casks, this one stands out! In general, Bunnahabhain still is an underrated distillery with many great affordable bottlings around – and this release is the perfect example: It reminds me a bit of old Macallan with mahogany wood, maraschino cherry, orange zest, Christmas cake with rum and port, traces of leather, ginger bread and spices. It is sweet but not dull, juicy, complex (more in the nose than on the palate) and well-balanced. The finish is endless and makes you pour another one. One of my highlights this year in terms of new releases and a bang for your buck!

Score: 92

Three Archives Littlemill in comparison: 1988 (51,9%) – 1989 (53,0%) – 1990 (47,8%)

As these are as wonderful as so many others we reviewed here (thyme, fruits, dried hay, malty sweetness), I limit myself to key words:

1988: Loads of berries, flawless balance, maturity, understatement – holy crab! – 91 points

1989: More oak than usual, a typical example, complex – 90 points

1990: Spicy elements like a rye whisky with a wonderful finish, but a bit atypical – 89 points

ARDBEG AURIVERDES 49,9%

Comment: To get a better picture I tasted it head-to-head with the regular releases, which aren’t miles away to begin with. So in general, this is a typical Ardbeg, yet special and immensely complex. And for me, it beats the Uigeadail or the TEN, because it has more balance, length and depth – but on the other hand it has less spice and power. Aside from the typical aromas of modern Ardbeg (peat-iodine-sulphur combo, mustard seed, tires, leather, white pepper, aloe vera/cactus, weeds, BBQ-sauce, cocoa, latte macchiato, toy train oil with a hot power transformer) the nose emphasizes soot, iodine (more than usual), vanilla pod, caramel, greener elements (bell peppers, ruccola, mint), burning resinous branches of firs, bacon, burnt steak with Norwegian smoke salt, coffee beans, chalk and tinned cream – all in perfect harmony. The taste profile on the palate, as always with newer Ardbeg, gets slim-lined and less aggressive than expected before it grows huge again in a long finish. The sheep in wolf’s clothing, so to speak. Surprisingly this one reminds me a bit of the old 17 y.o. because it comes across as mature, refined, balanced and mild, but in no way weakish. The green elements are almost gone (only wild garlic remains) making room for a creaminess that swallows edges and spices (less peppery and chili-like than the regular releases). Does a dish like ‚peat-chocolate-iodine-cream‘ exist, because this would be a perfect match? It simply tastes moreish like an older smoky Ardbeg. The finish gradually takes over and becomes absolutely huge: soot, loads of iodine, medium peat, resin, smoke and big Islay complexity. Impressive and long! I have to admit that this bottling keeps the promises and descriptions of the label. Really quaffable stuff for a night with good friends or after a hard working day. It rewards the people prefering finesse over raw power. Thanks to Gereon for the ’sneak peek‘.

Score: 90+

P.S.: Supernova is coming back soon – we keep you posted …

Laphroaig 17 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Fights‘ 1995 – 2012, Bourbon barrel, 253 btl., 53,9%

The Whisky Agency's new series 'Fights'

Comment: Wonderful start with a great integration of all Laphroaigs elements. I am getting vanilla, white oak, herbs, nettles, peat, brine, iodine, rusty fish trawler smells, ropes, pepper, old Golden Delicious apples, softly boiled potatoes with butter on top, lemon dash and grapefruit. Wow! On the palate it delivers as well, I adore how it is wild and mild at the same time. My beloved flintstone and matchstick sulphur shows up in the long peaty finish with chalky oak and some vanilla traces. No water necessary, but it can swim. Kudos, I really like this dram (having a weak spot for Laphroaig anyway).

Score: 90

Caol Ila 30 y.o. Archives 1982 – 2012, Bourbon Hogshead 758, 207 btl., 51,2%

Comment: Unusually fruity at first whiff but still with the typical peaty DNA of Caol Ila or even the one of older medicinical Islay drams like Ardbeg (indeed) but only for seconds. This amazing stuff turns towards mineral austerity after a while and then displays fruit again – a tightrope dancer with impeccable balance between these worlds. I am getting lemon zest, salt, olive oil, tarry tires, chalky and discrete oak, minty freshness, tropical fruits (peaches, pineapple, banana), herbs for soups and only a little juniper. This is mature Islay whisky for the connoisseur of elegant drams. No water needed.

Score: 90+

Caol Ila 28 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Sea Life‘ 1984 – 2012, ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 254 btl., 53,5%

Comment: Same basic maritime style minus the fruitiness of above’s bottling, yet wonderfully austere and mineral again with a touch of lemon zest. This is spicier and more Talisker-esque, dare I say. The peat layer is thin and and very elegant but develops some grip on the palate. Chalky oak again, tar, burning embers and juniper combine in great balance with wonderful of sea salt on the palate. Great choice.

Score: 89

Caol Ila 21 y.o. TheWhiskyCask 1990 – 2012, Bourbon Cask, 55%

Comment: This one is different, a farmyardy and herbal peater with quite some spice (white pepper, coriander, a little cinnamon), altogether the most typical of the three (white pepper,olive oil, juniper, lemon chicken, suede leather) – and it is notably younger and a little less balanced, but has more power and oak. The dry attack with some sulphury moments is best tamed with some drops of water.

Score: 86

On Friday, a 1993 even won the tasting in Landshut: It was Andrea Caminneci’s C&S Dram at 18 years and 51,4% (90+ points for me). So let’s see if this version can keep up:

Glen Keith 19 y.o Whisky-Fässle „Duck Edition“ 10.1992 – 07.2012, Bourbon Cask, 49,1%

Comment: The first whiff already tells a novel – another great Glen Keith that could be a poster child for how Bourbon casks should influence a spirit, a quality being typical of Glen Keith. Loads of vanilla, dried fruits (pineapple!) and white oak (plus the spices going with that) followed by natural caramel, flowers (pollen), honey, mango, melon, pear, orange, Sauvignon blanc (gooseberries) and a slight hint of cloves – all this is well-balanced. The taste doesn’t let you down either and the oakiness is just as loud as necessary. Fruit oils caress the tongue and even some coconut can be found. The long and tasty finish makes you want to pair this bottling with a creme brulee or stuff like that. A dash of water brings out even more fruit. A malt also for Bourbon lovers. Kudos, Jens! Hurry up to get a bottle, guys …

Score: 90

To warm up for this event, let’s have a dram from the local Swabian bottler Whisky-Fässle:

Tomintoul 44 y.o. Whisky-Fässle ‚Duck Edition‘ 1968 – 2012, Bourbon Hogshead, 45,5%

Comment: A great tropical fruit basket on the sour, flowery-light and fresh side with just the right amount of white oak despite 44 years of age. Just to name a few aromas, I am getting passion fruit, mango guave, green banana, pineapple, lime, a pinch of white pepper, vanilla cream, acacia honey, malt, candyfloss and macadamia nuts. All that is well-balanced, and it is not another banana-boat. It tastes wonderful, I must say, starting lightly but then building up more and more (with all these beautiful scents mentioned). A little malty, oaky and spicy grip after swallowing ends the growth period and leads into a vanilla-toffee and oak-laden finish with the fruits hovering around. Long echo! A drop of water levels out the bite if you want to have it super-smooth. A great oldie all the way.

Score: 90+

Littlemill 20 y.o. Liquid Library (The Whisky Agency) 1992 – 2012 Bourbon Hogshead, 313 btl., 51,6%

Comment: Nice one again, aahhh, wonderful freshness and amazing complexity! I am getting green grass, spinach, pine needle, vanilla, fudge toffee, sweet malt, thyme and rosemary, cinnamon, cilantro, cardamom, pepper, ginger ale, smoke, wet earth, nutty elements, pineapple, maraschino cherries and plums. It tastes very fruity and vanilla-toffee-like, berries, malt, spice and grass join in. The finish brings back all aromas of the nose in soft waves. Kudos, one of the best Bourbon cask Littlemill from those years up to date, i.m.h.o.!

Score: 90

Littlemill 22 y.o. Malts of Scotland MoS 28.03.1989 – 05.2011, sherry butt 2511, 325 btl., 52,8%

Comment: Smokier, slightly darker, sherried and spicier than its predecessor. Surprisingly rummy as well but overall the same fresh profile (rosemary, thyme, pine needle, maraschino sherry, pineapple, plums, cinnamon, cardamom, smoke). The taste is on the herbal side and displays a dark woodiness of the fine kind – there must have been great sherry casks used at Littlemill back in the late 1980ies. The depth of the finish is breathtaking. High quality!

Score: 91

Littlemill 23 y.o. TheWhiskyCask 1988 – 2012, first-fill sherry butt, 54,9%

Comment: Way darker stuff! It possesses beautiful aromas of old sherry casks in this noble style – like early 1970 Bowmore wood, I daresay, clearly there but unobtrusive. This one adds cigar and humidor notes to the earthy smokiness, very close to the excellent 1989 sherry cask releases by Archives and Whisky-Fässle (check their tasting notes here on the page by following the link above). Great balance, too, amazing! The taste has dry moments and the other features of such casks while bringing the usual qualities to the table as well, just a darker style that dampens the profile a bit overall.

Score: 90+

Bonus:

Littlemill 22 y.o. Liquid Library (The Whisky Agency) 1989 – 2011, sherry wood, 221 btl., 48,3%

Comment: A bit thinner and more fragile than the bottlings before but a great Littlemill nonetheless. Like the smoother and softer brother of the MoS release.

Score: 89

No words make sense here: R.I.P. Tommy

Ardbeg 5 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 33.112 ‚Powerful, elegant and atmospheric‘ 20.12.2005 – 2011, 2nd-fill sherry butt, 252 btl., 60,8%

Comment: It doesn’t smell that young, quite a surpise. A rather typical Ardbeg on the mineral, green and farmyardy side again with nice citrus and Granny Smith apple notes. The peat, resin, smoke, burnt tires on hot tar, sulphur, iodine, discrete chalky oak from those refilled sherry casks (that go perfect with Ardbeg i.m.h.o.), mustard seed, chocolate, spinach and jet fuel aromas have some acidity to them. I am also getting sandy pebbles on the beach. Rather complex for such a youngster, not at all an alcohol-driven nose. The palate is a powerhouse, really punchy without being spicy or unpolished, no offnote here! What an Ardbeg! A monster without being rough. Long finish with big iodine, tires and soot! I used to say that Ardbeg takes some time to unfold, but this dram seems to be an exception. Impressive and very South Coast Islay. Water is not necessary but makes it more accessible to some fainter hearted natures.

Score: 90+

Ardbeg 11 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 33.115 ‚Man, that’s braw!‘ 31.08.1999 – 09.2011, refill sherry butt, 578 btl., 55,4%

Comment: This is less powerful and dryer than the 5 y.o. contender because the refill sherry cask has done a good  ‚rounding-off the edges-job‘ without being very obvious or sweet (unobtrusive in background) – a rather inactive cask like the one above has been used, but over 100% more time of ageing took place. There are nice white pepper and chili notes, eucalypt, nettles, pu-erh tea, plums, prunes, apples, peat, chalky oak, iodine, aromatic smoke and sulphur. Asian spices and chocolate join in on the palate with sherry traces and green tea – later plums and the peat-sulphur-iodine-combo. If the 112 is the mineral and fresh Riesling from Rheinhessen, this one is your typical Barossa Shiraz (in wine analogy terms speaking). I prefer the Riesling this time.

Score: 89

Littlemill 22 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Sea Life‘ 1990 – 2012, refill sherry butt, 719 btl., 52,2%

New Whisky Agency Bottlings (Sea Life and more)

Comment: Cookie-like (sweet malt) and very complex. All kinds of fruit (also maraschino cherry), green elements (fresh grass, herbs), huge vanilla notes, natural caramel, almonds, quite some coconut, cinnamon, white oak, dry earth and a little peat, all well mixed. The palate is just as fine as the nose with impeccable balance. Sour fruitiness with some berries (cassis), coconut, apple crumble with vanilla sauce, ginger, lemon zest in medium weight show up as well. The fruits get bigger in the finish (hello pineapple), wrapped in gentle peat and oak. It makes you want another glass. Adorable, just like a cookie-coconut dessert!

Score: 89+

Littlemill 21 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 97.21 ‚Laurel, meadowsweet and honeysuckle‘, 07.03.1990 – 2011, first-fill barrel, 217 btl., 54,7%

Comment: Fruity (pears, cherry, plum, passion fruit) and oaky at first with this amazingly sweet malt note like Macallan (sorry for repeating this, the maltiness is just very similar). There also is vanilla, cookie and caramel, but less intense than in the Sea Life release due to louder wood. In addition I am getting cocnut and hazelnut, cinnamon, grass and peat, so the two Lowlanders are not far from each other. On the palate it reveals the Littlemill fruit and grass charm with slightly more wood than usual, somehow it is sweet n‘ sour and oozes beautiful Indian spices. It finishes just like that with the oak in domination. That is its weakness, but on a high level.

Score: 86+

Where the FUCK are my cookies?

I loved the ‚Cowboy’s Campfire Dram‘ release (SMWS 29.102), an amazing Laphroaig. Let’s see how these two compare in a head-to-head:

Laphroaig 12 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 29.105, ‚Massive and volcanic‘, 25.3.1999 – 8.2011, Refill Sherry Butt, 619 btl., 59,6%

Comment: Typical, very dirty, peaty and maritime with a green herbal touch, hot ash, slight mint aromas, much salt and pepper, mustard seed and a very discrete sherry influence. The power on the palate is enormous, what an explosion of peat and spice with heavy oily aromas, untamed Islay to the core, then my beloved matchstick sulphur and soot set in for good and the dram ends on these notes – smoother than expected – but still monstrous. I like it without water for its punchiness, but water makes it very well rounded and accessible. Try for yourself.

Score: 90

Laphroaig 20 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 29.104, ‚Not for wee boys‘, 12.10.1990 – 2011, refill sherry butt, 584 btl., 58,2%

Comment: Something went wrong with this cask, a bit of fungi, rubber and rotten sherry cover and dull down the usual Laphroaig features, but there also are nice aromas of ginger bread, curry and forest floor (Ben Nevis-like). Chocolate, sauerkraut and bacon add to the mix, a really unusual one. I am not yet decided. The taste is a bit more Laphroaig now (spicier than nose) but still in the same camp, quite sweet, then heavy peat smoke, the finish finally displays South coastal Islay features in a more typical way (soot, sulphur, peat, iodine). Worth a try, yet uncommon. No water needed.

Score: 86

To celebrate this I am going to publish this review from a session with fellow Maniac Keith Wood. We also featured the Ronnie Routledge bottle on our stands at fairs recently where people loved it. Here is why:

Glenglassaugh 35 y.o. OB The Chosen Few No. 1 – Ronnie Routledge, May 1976 – 2011, Sherry Butt, 654 btl., 49,6%

Comment: What a fruit basket, mostly on passion fruit, pineapple, plum and huge apricot jam notes, slightly cristalline and very clean. The complexity is amazing. We also found vanilla, natural caramel, elderflower, violets, lilacs, grass, herbs, candyfloss, honey, a hint of licorice and the smell of rising pretzel and dark bread dough in the oven. On the palate it turns more herbal and posesses way more bite than expected (a peppery influence) without ever losing the big dextrose fruitiness. The finish reveals frothed milk, malt, oatmeal, Vermouth and soft echoes of the passion fruit and apricot. The oak is always very discrete. Who wouldn’t ask for a second sip of this nectar? To put it in a nutshell, this is another stunning single cask from Portsoy in a style of days gone by – and slightly different from the others I had so far. If you want to compare, click here and here and here.

Score: 90

P.S.: A friend of mine was so kind to provide me with an unreleased sip af a 1967 Glassa from a sherry cask. It blew me away, 92 points. The only downside to this dram was that is turned a bit dry but aside from that it was merely perfect on dark and even some brighter cristalline and cooked fruits (many maraschino cherries), coffee and chocolate, broodingly powerful. Forgive me that I am predictable here, but these profiles of secondary and tertiary aromas with high complexity and clean character are right down my alley. Kudos, Glenglassaugh!

Glenfarclas 2001 – 2011 OB ‚The Family Casks‘ for Potstill (Vienna), first-fill Sherry Cask 2819, 318 btl., 60,1%

Comment: To put it short and sweet, this Farclas has a classic dark sherry profile with morello cherries and jam, ginger bread, dark chocolate, dark wet wood, mahogani, caramel and a hint of aniseed (typical of Glenfarclas), all well-balanced and powerful. A recommendation for you Sherry-heads out there!

Score: 90