I have waited for this like a little child. The Supernova releases thrilled me, so what will this 170ppm phenol monster bring to the glass? Educated whisky drinkers know that the ppm content of the barley is not necessarily the defining number for tasting peatiness in the make – which Octomore shows occasionally. The phenols should be measured in the whisky instead because loads of reactions and proceedings strip away peatiness along the production process and during maturation (I can explain more in tastings if you are interested). So watch out, some parts of this peat race are a gimmick.

However, the 1970s Ardbegs had huge smoke. One should measure and compare e.g. a 1972 with the Hypernova to see numbers. I am so curious. Let’s hope it is good:

Comment: Yes, Ardbeg nose, pale colour, around 8 – 10 years, I guess… but way more farmyardy, also a bigger concentration on tar, camphor, burning green herbs and coal, less of the sweet BBQ-style at first. Composting pile in front of a mine? With time it becomes more typical, all is there, aromas like peat, soot, iodine, milk coffee, caramel (Dulce de Leche), tires, ointment, chalk, burnt oak, white pepper, weapon oil, old brown bandaids and plaster, but somehow different in array. The smoke is big, yet not as monstrous as I expected it. It renders the effects described though.

On the palate and in the finish, this becomes a real winner! Peated mocca! Sweeter now than it was to expect from the nose, a smoky chocolate bar with salt sprinkles meets sooty iodine. So Ardbeg, peatier, huge … yesss. The finish is deep and eternal. Powerhouse, but not hurtful or sharp at all – it has the thin silhouette in the middle that classic Ardbeg possesses. Maybe some time in the bottle makes this even better, I already love this project.

Is this worth the 210 clams? You decide. I bought some and look forward to cracking it open.

Score: 90+

Nachdem ich einige fantastische Drams von meinen Freunden bei DTS & W (danke Jürgen und Tobi) aus diesem Hause zugesandt bekommen habe, war ich baff. Beispielsweise war ein Spitzen-Bowmore dabei (2000-2021, 56,5%, 91 Punkte), und auch ein Benrinnes 2007 (57,9%, 88 Punkte) wusste zu überzeugen. Auch die anderen aktuellen Abfüllungen konnten was.

Dabei legte mir Jürgen eine exklusive Abfüllung für den deutschen Markt ans Herz, einen Longmorn „Private Cask“ aus der Barrel Selection, den ich nun verkosten werde:

Longmorn 14 y.o. Wilson & Morgan 2007 – 2022, Barrel Selection ‚Private Cask‘ 800354, refill Hogshead / Virgin Oak, 211 btl., 48,0%

Kommentar: Der obstgartige Longmorn verträgt ein 16-monatiges Virgin-Oak-Finish bestimmt gut, war mein erster Gedanke. Ich bin eh ein Fan dieser Brennerei. Gerüchte sagen, das erste refill Hogshead war ein Caol Ila-Fass. Mmmh, müsste man beides schmecken, dazu alles ungefärbt… . Es empfängt einen eine malzig-fruchtige Nose mit Vanille, Weißeiche und feiner Würze durch das Virgin Oak (Baumrinde, Kardamom, Pfeffer). Wie immer lohnt sich Geduld, denn erst dann spielt der Longmorn die Fruchtkarte: getrocknete Aprikosen, Haribo-Pfirsiche, Macedonia-Obstsalat, Kiwi, Kirsche Banane, Beeren. Wow! Dazu gesellen sich Dosenmilch, Dulce de Leche (Toffee, Karamell, Vanille) und eine Spur Maische. Im Hintergrund kann man tatsächlich Torf erahnen, der der Sache eine runde Mineralik beimischt. Am Gaumen wird dies noch deutlicher. Dieser Dram ist toll und gleichzeitig anders. Er kommt nun leicht torfig und moorig daher, Moos, Salzlache, Moltebeeren, Geißblatt, Waldboden, Banane, Anklänge an irische Whiskys kommen in den Sinn, karges grünes Land, wenig Holz, frische Brise, viel Charakter – komplex! Auch das Finish nimmt mich voll mit, genau meine Baustelle, alle vorigen Nuancen spiegeln sich wieder in bester Balance bei großer Trinkigkeit. Spitzenauswahl und Fassmanagement. Ein absoluter Tipp (81,90 Euro VK)!

Score: 89+

Unser lieber Freund Stefan Bügler – einer dieser Menschen, die die Freude am Whisky großzügig teilen und einfach angenehme Zeitgenossen sind – ermöglicht Euch nun einen Blick hinter den Vorhang mit drei wirklich exklusiven Whiskys von St. Kilian, die das Potenzial der Brennerei zeigen. Passend zur Idee heißt diese Serie ‚Whisky Folks‘. Jede Abfüllung für sich ist eine Empfehlung und interpretiert das Rüdenauer ‚Water of Life‘, gebrannt am gleichen Tag – völlig anders – durch die Wahl der Fässer:  sehr hoher Lerneffekt … when the peat meets the sweet …

St. Kilian ‚peated‘ PX-Hogshead 666 (American Oak), 18. Januar 2017 – 30. April 2021, Whisky Folks Private Cask, 433 btl., 60,0%

Kommentar: The number of the beast – klasse Fassnummer mit dem Titel ‚pleased to meet you‘! Und da ich gerne handfeste Vergleiche mag, dies wäre der Ardbeg der drei Fässer (hinkender Vergleich, aber Ähnlichkeiten), die Geschmacksfarbe wäre braun. Torf, süße BBQ-Sauce und Jod, Reifen und Teer, dann Pinienharz, antiseptisches Spray, Spur Vulkanschwefel, Kreide, Kalk, Waffenöl, alte Hütte, Stall, Kaffee, auch Zitrusfrüchte, Datteln und Rosinen – dazu eine diskrete Sherrynote, die im Geschmack wesentlich deutlicher wird und gut eingewoben ist. Am Gaumen gesellen sich außerdem Leder, Pflaumen und Burnout-Reifenspuren hinzu, ein BBQ am Torf-Bauernhof. Gebt ihm Zeit, tolle Entwicklung, langer Abgang. Sweet peat, dirty core – 666 eben. Noch zu haben für 69,90 Euro (siehe Link unten).

Score: 89

Hier der Link zum Shop mit der ganzen Story: St. Kilian | 666 Whisky Folks Private Cask | Wein-Riegger Onlineshop

St. Kilian ‚peated‘ Bourbon-small cask (Garrison Bros., TX) 498, 18. Jan. 2017 – 08. Sept. 2021, Whisky Folks Private Cask, 86 btl., 61,2%

Kommentar: ‚A Cowboy called Peat‘ heißt diese Version und stammt aus einem 50l-Fass der texanischen Brennerei Garrison Brothers. Ich befürchtete zuerst eine zu krasse Holzigkeit, da diese Fässer echt enorme Kraft ausspielen, doch hier hat es spitze funktioniert. Dies wäre der Caol Ila der Serie, um bei diesen Vergleichen zu bleiben, seine Geschmacksfarbe wäre ein blasses Gelb. Wir haben hier neben dem Torf eine Mineralik, Austern mit Zitrone, Grapefruit, Mentholfrische, Wacholder, Olivenöl, Kunstleder, weißer Pfeffer, etwas Jod, Anklänge von Mezcal, Gurke, Eisen. Gelegentlich kommen durch das kleine Fass sogar Rum- und Bourbonanklänge durch, Kokos, Vanille, Marshmallow und Gewürzkaugummi (Zimt, Kardamom). Eine echt ungewöhnliche Nase, die gefällt, aber Zeit braucht. Am Gaumen ist der Cowboy kristallklar, leicht trocken, jodig und mineralisch, das Holz ist in genau der richtigen Dosis eingesetzt worden, auch Frucht kommt schön durch. Im Abgang wird er dann süßer und lässt die tolle Aromen-Kombination nochmals aufscheinen. Feines Ding. Für 74,90 Euro noch erhältlich (siehe Link unten).

Score: 89

Hier der Link zum Shop mit der ganzen Story: St. Kilian | 498 A Cowboy called Peat – Whisky Folks Private Cask | Wein-Riegger Onlineshop

St. Kilian ‚peated‘ first-fill Oloroso Sherry Hogshead 674, 18. Jan. 2017 – 30. Aug. 2021, Whisky Folks Private Cask, 446 btl., 59,6%

Kommentar: ‚Oloroso Glorioso‘ wurde diese Abfüllung getauft, sie entspräche in meinem Dreier-Typvergleich dem Port Charlotte oder einem 1990er Bowmore in Momenten, die Geschmacksfarbe wäre ein bräunliches rot. Industriehalle, Gummistiefel im Torf, Traktorreifen, Kräuter, gereifter Parmigiano, pilziger Waldboden im Herbst, Tannenharz, gesägter Baumstamm, Feuerstein und Mineralik kommen später dazu, auch Wildleder und kandierte Orange. Der edle Sherry bringt dunkle Früchte wie Trauben, Trockenpflaumen, Datteln und Sultaninen mit ein. Am Gaumen zeigt dieses Fass gute Balance, alles hallt wieder in leichter Trockenheit, Sherry, Würze und Teer kämpfen und umspielen die Geschmacksknospen, die im Abgang mit einer dezente Süße von jodigem Charakter und Salz versöhnt werden. 74,90 Euro für diesen dunkleren Burschen, sie Link unten).

Score: 89

Hier der Link zum Shop mit der ganzen Story: St. Kilian | 674 Oloroso glorioso – Whisky Folks Private Cask | Wein-Riegger Onlineshop

Fazit aller drei Drams: Ein lehrreicher und schöner Vergleich und eine Empfehlung. Holt Euch, solange es geht – Szenestoff!

Within the LVMH organization Dr. Bill has already implemented such dark malt at the Glenmorangie Signet version- unpeated though – and one can really taste the difference in terms of chocolate and coffee aromas there. How does this roasting work on peated malt?

As usual, there are two versions to look out for: The Committee Release with 50,1% (April 26th) and the Ardbeg Day Edition with 46% (May 17th), both priced 125.- Euro in Germany. I am going to drink these head to head now:

Comment: Let’s cut to the chase – this clearly is Ardbeg with its typical features, great quality as most of the times. Only nuances differentiate these dark roast versions from the regular distillate, the effect seems less in a peated environment, I guess. The strong phenolic elements might interfere with the experimental roast malt because usually the difference is recognizable.

As to be expected, the 46%-version comes across way more opened on the nose, on the palate, the 50,1%-release takes the trophy though. Give the latter lots of time.

The 46% has an impeccable balance and gives us more of the roast effects. The focus is on BBQ-sauce, coffee, chocolate, roasted steak, soot and vanilla. I am also getting thistle and aloe, deep peat, iodine, sweet smoke, suede, charcoal, tar, resin, mustard seed, oatmeal cookies and antiseptic spray on old bandaids.

The stronger version is greener over all and plays it close to the chest. Peat, hazel, aloe, herbs, chocolate, tar, tanned leather, resin, tires, hot transformer and phenols are the main characteristics, it takes time to open up. However, in the mouth the strength in abv is an asset, and it turns less green. The soot, lively acidity and iodine along with typical Ardbeg tastes make this a winner as well.

Both versions punk well. Hard to decide – let’s call it a tie.

Scores: 89 – 90 (both)

Consequently, this new Ardbeg is of great learning effect. It represents a taste stemming from much longer fermentation due to a broken boiler in November 2007: three weeks instead of 72 hours, the longest in Ardbeg history! I don’t know if the yeast stopped working for a while during the cooldown. The Ardbeg team, led by Dr. Bill Lumsden, opened the washbacks to allow Islay air penetrate more intensively. An experiment was born. Dr. Bill always wanted to find out the effects of longer fermentation and the boiler accident presented itself as the chance to see. Fitting the long fermentation, a longer maturation time was granted (13 years). Ardbeg fans, be excited for this one.

Comment: This is a typical spirit-driven Ardbeg of the good kind, to start out with. The nose is a stunner, very balanced and old-school Ardbeg, sweet peaty joy. I am getting a smouldering forest fire here, loads of pine and beech smoke, soot, resin, tar, sweet BBQ-sauce, sulphur and big iodine (which I love in such drams). Of course, tires, leather, coffee roast, milk chocolate, chalk, aloe, menthol, lemon drop and herbs are there too. Also some food analogies: A burnt steak with black pepper and chili rub comes to my mind somehow. Despite the discrete wood (I guess mostly refill) there is vanilla creme with toffee sauce for dessert, some orange and apple slices on the side. All this is so enticingly sweet, harmonious and well-integrated. I expected way more funk, but this is a fine and pronounced smokiness with deep iodine and phenols.

On the palate, this has the slim and drinkable profile that is so typical of Ardbeg. Mild start on spritely, minty and acidic tones, then it builds itself up towards spice and burning embers. Round again, quaffability is king.

It finishes on depth! Iodine! Peat, tanned leather, old wood, salt, soot and chalk – and this great sweetness again.

Altogether I think the longer fermentation resulted in a profile from older days of Ardbeg in parts. Iodine, a spice-laden maltiness and round integration of all aromas are to mention. I am getting a bottle and drink it with an old friend!

Score: 90

Join the Ardbeg Committee to get your bottle (in Germany, this is 8th February 2022)!

Cognac Grosperrin No. 71 Heritage 1971 – 2021 – for Flickenschild – Petite Champagne, 52,3%

Comment: This was chosen as a Malternative at full proof – a Cognac for whisky drinkers that Guilhem Grosperrin inherited somehow (it was originally sold for two NGOs) and took care of it. Now it was bottled exclusively for Flickenschild / whizita.de. The story is on the bottle to read up on. Let’s taste it:

The oak is playing a role after 50 years, but it is well in check – malt heads will enjoy this (vanilla, pepper). Floral elements (lilac, lavender, violets, roses, mint, lemon verbena, flowerpot) meet glazed lemon cake (Amerikaner), white chocolate, cinnamon and nutmeg. Beeswax, tobacco… more and more aromas emerge, it needs time to unfold. Then nutty rancio joins in and many (dried) fruits like apricots, lemons, limes, orange skin, wild strawberries, mirabelles, lychees and gooseberries. Complex and balanced, the alcohol is well-integrated.

On the palate sweet and sour elements battle like in a familiar westernized Chinese duck recipe. All in all, it is darker now. Raisins, figs, dried apricots, nuts, lemony tastes and waxy maturity make their presence felt.

The finish takes you on a journey through all the stages from before, very exciting and long.

Score: 89

Jean-Luc Pasquet Cognac Lot 68 – 72 Kirsch Import Limited Edition, 1968…1972 – 2021, Fins Bois, 59,1%

Comment: This multi-vintage assemblage (1968 – 1972) from the Fins Bois was Sebastian’s first pick in his role as grape ambassador for Kirsch Import. And these crus really combine into a super power. A dream of a Cognac, which wasn’t to be expected from its sheer stats – such stuff usually vanishes in the blends of big houses. With this example you can discover how great this alternative way can be, I am so glad it was bottled this way – read why:

Enticingly sweet, nutty and leathery start, a tightly-knit and balanced potpourri of darker elegance. A fist inside a velvet glove. Juicy, balsamic complexity, quite some rancio, soaked spice cake, cherries, dates, maracuja, kiwi, cristallized orange, marzipan, macadamia, nutty pastry (Nusshörnchen), chocolate, vanilla, juniper berries, tobacco, humidor. Crazy!

It tastes as good as it noses, more berries like cassis chime in into the complex mix, even black truffles can be found. And it swims well, try water too, just amazing. This is truly a legendary cognac.

The crescendo leaves you crying for more of this awesome grape juice. Amazing pick! With each tasting session you love it more as it has a drinkability despite its power. Don’t buy, leave more for me !

Score: 92

Before I differenciate, both have the Caroni funk and typical traits for these years:

Common notes of both: Jungle undergrowth, banana skin, camphor, ointment (Ichthyol), iodine, resin, sanitary napkin, tar, scented tobacco, fresh mint, rose stems and vanilla – all in all a heavy load, almost overburdening the palate. Let’s go from crazy to nuts:

CARONI 1998 – 2021 Single Cask Trinidad Rum, Cask #2109, 226 btl., 62,2%

Comment: This is the rounder and fruitier one with berries, more accessible and not as dry as its partner – aetherial clouds of aromas somehow. Along the notes above I am getting a deep and spicy impression, huge complexity. Berries, dragonfruit, babana, plum, orange zest, rum-raisin ice cream (Malaga), leather, bitumen, jute sack filled with coffee beans, cinnamon chewing gum, ski waxing workshop, glue, cedar wood, forest floor, mulled Christmas wine (nutmeg, clover, cinnamon, ginger, red wine, etc.), daisies, poppy seed pastry with sugar icing (‚Mohnschnecke‘), new car oil and what not – a crazy ride. It is intense yet balanced, spicy and fruity on the palate, water straightens it out and pushes the berries and tropical fruit center stage, but it can be enjoyed pure as well. The finish is long and soothing. However, we are talking heavy duty here over all.

Score: 91+

CARONI 1997 – 2021 Single Cask Trinidad Rum, Cask #59, 224 btl., 60,6%

Comment: This is the spicier, drier and dirtier one, it bites like a jungle viper – no prisoners taken. Tar, licorice, old oil, resin, olive tapenade, hot mulch from jungle wood, rotten banana skin, nutmeg, pepper, chili, burnt caramel, cocoa, juniper berries, painted pine cone and quite some wood influence. A Voodoo Monster that will split the audience. The palate is a full-on attack, peppery spices and woody dryness bite with adstringency, then relief, wow, dryness gone suddenly. Banana, oak and undergrowth are dominant. I recommend water for this one, as it levels out the aggression and allows the subtle berries and fruit to be discovered – but it also depends on your daily shape. On some days, pure is fine – a great one either way. Somewhat brutal but complex, and therefore, very entertaining. Muscle rum, looong finish!

Score 90

So choose which style you prefer – or get both. Stellar rum that won’t become cheaper and gets rarer by the day. WU!

Beschreibung: Hallo, das ist ein wahrer und typischer Ardbeg ohne jede Offnote, auf der würzig-ledrigen Seite befindlich. In der Ledertasche finden wir das Torf-Jod-Schwefel-Kombo, antiseptisches Spray, Mullbinde, BBQ-Sauce, Lagerfeuer-Rauch, Senf, schwarzen Pfeffer, Seegras, Aloe, Zitrusfrische, Milchschokolade, Latte Macchiato und Reifen. Auch gesalzenes Karamell, diverse Nüsse (v.a. Paranuss, Cashew und Macadamia), Vanille, Sägespäne und evtl. Virgin-Oak-Spuren kann man erriechen. Der Einfluss der Sherryfässer, wohl refill, wirkt nur indirekt ordnend. Klassisch und gut bisher.

Am Gaumen ändert sich aber so Einiges im Vergleich zu den Klassikern: Hier tritt er nicht schlank und süß an wie seine Artgenossen, er beißt pfeffrig zu – fast wie ein Talisker, dazu viel Holz (eher frisch wirkend, ich schätze Virgin Oak-Anteil, müsste mal nachfragen) in cremiger Textur. Definitiv Paralleluniversum Je nachdem, wie man seinen Ardbeg mag …

Wild wird dann langsam zu süß, wenn der Abgang einsetzt. Das volle Ardbeg-Aromenrad kommt wieder zum Zuge, und ja, leichte Echos der Sherrycasks sind auch da – ein schönes Finish. Die 65 Euro sind absolut fair.

Note: 88

Beschreibung: Der recht helle Tropfen ist zwar einerseits sofort als Ardbeg zu erkennen (Torf, Jod, brennender Trafo, Reifen), weicht aber im Bereich Süße deutlich ab – er präsentiert sich trockener und „baumiger“, womit gemeint ist, dass sich viele Spuren des Eichenholzes finden lassen: Würze (Chili, Pfeffer, Wasabi), Harz, Vanille, Lakritz, Weidenast, Wacholderbusch, Nussschale und Räucherkammer wären ein paar davon. Diese Holznoten sind nicht dominant, machen diesen Ardbeg aber weniger Destillat-getrieben und weniger ausbalanciert. Der Roggen gibt indirekt eine gewisse Härte, man riecht Getreidekörner, Bohnen heller Kaffeeröstung, Kreide, Gurkenglas, Teerdach, Torfrauch, Distel, Nessel, Manchego-Rinde, helle Zitrusfrüchte, Birne und Banane.

Am Gaumen tritt der Arrrrrrrdbeg eher trocken und mild für seine knapp 52% an und folgt seiner Nasen-Aromatik. Die typische schlanke Mitte dieses Destillates ist vorhanden, aber die Süße ist zurückgehalten. Vor allem Erdnüsse, Eiche, Gurkenwasser (oft in Rye-Whiskys auffindbar) Teer und Harz treten bei mittlerer Reife in den Vordergrund.

Der Nachklang wirkt zuerst klassisch, klingt jedoch weicher und schlanker bei mittlerer Länge und im holzigeren Kontext ab. Torfwärme und Jod, Kokosschale, Paranuss und Teer verbleiben im Crescendo.

Als Fazit ist festzuhalten, dass ich überrascht war, wie sehr doch die Rye-Vorbelegung einen Ardbeg verändert, ein sehr spannendes Experiment. Dieser Dram wird mit Sicherheit im Reigen diverser (Nach-) Reifungen seinen Platz und seine Freunde finden. In Deutschland ist er ab dem 09. Februar 2021 für 150 Euro erhältlich. Arrrrrrgh!

Bewertung: 87

Beschreibung: Wir haben ihn im Team probiert und fanden den Traigh Bhan II sehr gelungen. Uns gefiel die mineralische Kalkigkeit, seine Typizität („der ist ganz klar ein Ardi“) und die Komplexität, alles rund und wertig, für große Schlücke. Man kann seine Reife deutlich wahrnehmen, da sind massig Sekundär- und Tertiäraromen in Esterform gebildet worden. Auch viel Jod, antiseptische Pflaster, Reifen, Trafobrand, Teer, Milchkaffee, Feuerstein, Streichholz, Leder, Zitrone, Pflaume, grüne Kräuter (auch Tee), Tomatenmark, Chiliflocken und Aloe Vera sind zu finden. Und natürlich Torfrauch, der aber viel mehr transportiert als in wilder Jugend. Man wünscht sich ein paar mehr Umdrehungen, das ist aber das einzige Manko an diesem wirklich feinen und kompakten Ardbeg – ich leg‘ mir sicher einen zu. Er erinnert an seinen Vorgänger, der süß-cremige Abgang ist ein Traum.

Bewertung: 90 Punkte

Verkostung: 4,7% weniger Alkohol also die Committee-Version, gleiches Vatting? Schwer zu sagen. Ich bin gespannt. Auf jeden Fall ist der Pinot Noir-Einfluss deutlicher als beim Committee, Kirschen und Erdbeeren, alles gut eingebunden, schnell verfliegend, dann alte trockene Holzplanke, Senfkorn, Leder, viel Rauch, Jodsüße, heißer Spielzeugeisenbahntrafo, antiseptische Pflaster, Teer, Kohle, Ruß, Tannenzapfenfeuer, mineralische Elemente (Kalk, Kreide, Muscheln), Salz, Schokolade und Kaffee, sogar Bittermandel und Vanille. Am Gaumen gewinnt er gegen die Vorversion, hier ist das Weinfassthema wirklich gut eingebunden, die Ardbeg-typische Süße bleibt erhalten und zieht sich durch bis in den mittellangen Abgang. Süffig, filigran, alle Elemente angehaucht. Der Cloudy Bay-Spätburgunder (Neuseeland) hält sich eher zurück, gibt aber positive Einflüsse und zähmt den Ardbeg bzw. sortiert ihn. Eine Schoko-Kirsch-Torte, die versehentlich auf dem Räucherofen stand. Kein Brecher, ein eleganter Altrocker in Tweet, im Ledersessel sitzend – spannend. Selten, dass die „dünnere“ Variante den Sieg holt. Ein gelungener Ardbeg, gefährlich trinkig und sicher kein schwarzes Schaf!

Bewertung: 88

This sample arrived late due to postal issues with Covid-19. I was so happy when it made it. Great to see an addition to Ardbeg’s core range, especially as this ‚Little Beast‘ has an age statement. The five years don’t worry me, peated whiskies are way more drinkable in younger years than normal ones. Of course, you lose some complexity but gain sheer power on the other end. However, a higher abv would be even more to my liking… but this has to fit newer palates in the market as well, so this is ok. And, forgive me, it really looks cool. The contents were taken from Bourbon and Oloroso casks, refill, I would reckon. Let’s have a dram:

Comment: Powerful and typical, extremely smoky (like thick clouds packed into a hole in the earth – quite mezcal-esque) and direct hit. No mash aroma, this is good antiseptic and peaty Ardbeg. Altogether it has a greener profile (herbs, green tea, pear, apple, Aloe, pickles) and spices are key (pepper, leather, jalapeno). It also sports chocolate, chalk, flinty sulphur, lemon dash, prosciutto ham, cold brew coffee and vanilla, even shortbread and a hint of cherry brandy. However, my beloved iodine is tuned on low. Not low on complexity, but wilder an greener than usual. On the palate you can detect the rounding-off effect of the sherry casks (well done), the Ardbeggian sweetness is there – and big smoke. Still balanced, not overpowering, not weak, just about right. Vanilla, and „welcome“, iodine, green elements, fired guns, leather and discrete old wood. Nice long finish. No monster, a good Islay Mezcal Proven: For this whisky, no weird finishes are necessary. Absolutely recommended for its price below 40 bucks.

Score: 88

Always make the best out of a situation. Isolation gave me time to taste some really nice drams after my nose was not congested anymore. My friends Boris, Martin, Dino and Maic provided me with some quarantine tipples. Thanks, guys! All of these are not expected to score low and I have heard good things, so this will be nitpicking. So without further delay, here some notes to distinguish:

Highland 36 y.o. Mancarella 1983, Hogshead 50, 47,3%

Cristallized tropical fruits (star fruit, pink grapefruit, lime, pineapple, maracuja, etc.), coconut, apple strudel, the wood is there but wonderfully discrete and adding interesting spice aromas that totally fit in (pepper, cinnamon, resin, supernice oakiness, all tuned well). It reminds me of older Springbank in moments, then it is very Tomatin-70s again, which might very well be the origin – what a combo. 91+.

Speyside Malt 46 y.o. Maltbarn 1973 – 2019, Sherry cask, 68 btl., 49,7%

Darker and sweeter in terms of wood than the predecessor, also somewhat rooty at first. Nutty, liqueurish, tropical fruits, Manuka honey, cristallized orange peel, Asian spice, dark wood, marzian It becomes brighter with time in its spectrum, peaches, pineapple, kiwi and marshmallows come to the fore. Very complex, take your time with this one. 91-.

Highland Malt 32 y.o. Maltbarn 1987 – 2019, Sherry cask, 159 btl., 49,9%

Great harmony, old sherry wood, plums, cherries, raisins, kiwi, leathery spice, dark chocolate, X-Mas-cake, nettles, tobacco. A classic profile fitting a Chesterfield club chair setting in a mahogany room. Chewy, gimme more! 91-.

Secret Speyside 24 y.o. Brothers in Malt 1995 – 2020, Bourbon Barrel 1409061, 261 btl., 52,1%

May I say the M-word? Smells just like an Easter Elchies House Malt Great fruit acidity, depth and balance, hard to grasp this fruit basket with discrete spiciness. Citrus fruits of all kind, pineapple, dried apricots, white grapes, hive, spring flowers, nutcake, roasted hazelnuts, wine gums, ginger, leather … soooo Speyside! The subtlest of smoke lingers within this harmonic dram where the oak is only traceable in secondary and tertiary aromas. High class, a sipper for all day, no offnote here. Great choice. 91.

Springbank 19 y.0. The Whisky Kingdom / Duckhammer’s 2000 – 2020, Refill Sherry Hogshead 669, 50,8%

Spicy over all, and with its typical maltiness, discrete peat in background, milky oats, Serrano ham, fresh grain, peaches and apricots (Bellini), strawberries, cherries, coconut, almonds and marzipan, salty brine, seaspray and ozone (nice coastal freshness), pepper, rubbery leather, moss, very complex, a smoky one that also lets fruit build up – there is lots going on, „Daddy like“! 91+.

Invergordon 46 y.o. Mancarella 1972, 49,2%

Pina Colada (Pineapple, coconut, cream, rum, vanilla) on speed! Typical old Invergordon, and perfect as such within its limits, sporting sweet juicy oak, catnip, mulch, fudge, cinnamon, nutmeg and  loads of maple syrup. It offers elements of the worlds of Bourbon, Rum and old Blended Whisky all in one, and White Russian. Dino’s third great Invergordon, nicely done, dude. 90+.

Clynelish 23 y.o. Maltbarn 1996 – 2020, Bourbon cask, 170 btl., 48,7%

Waxy and spicy, fruit acidity: there are aromas of leather, candles, hay, Sauvignon Blanc, then a great fruitiness breaks through (Granny Smith apples, peaches, passion fruit, pineapple, satsumas, gooseberries, plums), then persipan, beehive, ferny rocks, lime lemonade, wasabi, slight traces of darker oak bitterness as an antidote – all in excellent harmony, and highly drinkable. Plus, I love these pictures on the labels. 90.

Lochindaal (Bruichladdich) 9 y.o. Brothers in Malt 2010 – 2020, Bourbon Barrel 4337, 241 btl., 58,9%

From a rare run that is slightly peatier than Port Charlotte make. Well-dosed peat smoke still allowing complexity to come through, nice and original. Chalky minerality, kelp, fish smoker in action (yeah!), freshness of salty sea spray, resin, rubber boots, green tea, sheep shed, toffee, lime dash, roots, leather, wasabi … and sweeter than expected on the palate. A great example of a complex Islay Malt with hints of Campbeltown-esque maltiness. 90.

Caol Ila 20 y.o. Maltbarn 1999 – 2o20, Sherry cask, 118 btl., 48,9%

A dusty version (old sherry cask), interestingly different but still a typical Caol Ila (juniper in kelp, black olives), quite a lot of peat smoke, one for discovering more layers. 89.

Octomore 8 y.o.Maltbarn 2010/11 – 2020,  Bourbon and Wine casks, 43 btl., 58,3%

Read the label for more insights. A cheesy peatster, tar, seaweed, nettles and herbal weeds, dried apple rings, lemon skin, shed by the sea, leather, Virginia tobacco, smoked mackerel, sweet on palate with mentholated moments that dissolve into a peat, resin and iodine combo, loooong finish. Typical and good. 90.

Entsprechend des Karneval-Mottos erwartet uns laut Dr. Bill eine prächtige Aromenparade im sommerlichen Stil, da der torfige Tropfen in amerikanischen Rumfässern nachgereift wurde. Das Committee-Bottling hatte 52% und kam bei uns gut an (89 Punkte), hier stehen wir bei 46% in strohfarbener Eleganz. Ich bin gespannt, wie sich diese Ausmischung im Vergleich verhält:

Verkostung: Schon beim Einschenken breiten sich süßlich-jodiger Torfrauch und frisch geteerte Straße aus, man ist sofort auf Islay. Apfel, Limette, Ananas, grüne Banane und Datteln sowie Gartenkräuter im schweflig-rußigen Räucherofen, heißer Trafo, Gerbleder, Gunpowder-Tee, Kreosot und alte Salbe in braunem Pflaster, Nadelbaum (insbesondere Kiefernharz), Latte Macchiato mit Vanilleschuss und peruanische Bitterschokolade – alles fein eingebunden und komplex. Ein zitruslastiger und leichtfüßiger Ardbeg, den Rum findet man nur durch seine indirekte Wirkung, die mehr Süße evoziert. Eine interessante Variante mit milderem Abgang als die Committee-Version, die im Sommer am Strand viel Freude machen wird.

Score: 87

Aultmore 21 y.o. Maltbarn 1997,  50,7%

Comment: This is fruity-herbal and also juicy, very well-balanced. I am getting strawberry, cranberry, lemon, orange, macadamia-cookie, herbal infusion, and a discrete leafy bitterness in the nose. On the palate more wood Comes through (yet still within borders of good balance), but spice is clearly there.

Score: 89

Glentauchers 21 y.o. Maltbarn 1997 , 48,0%

Comment: A mild and sour-fruity dram, very typical for this underrated distillery. We have lemon and grapefruit, green tea, lemongrass, white peach, a hint of ginger and white pepper, fresh laundry, asparagus, smoked herbs and moss. It reminds me of a racy Riesling , excellent balance, too.

Score: 90

Speyside Distillery 29 y.o. Maltbarn 1989, 49,1%

Comment: This Oldie is very fruity (tropical: orange jam, passion fruit, white peach) but also has some malty sweetness, nice spices, creamy vanilla, like a baroque Palatinian Riesling – great in taste and balance, and sooo juicy!

Score: 90

Braes of Glenlivet 23 y.o. Maltbarn 1994, 48,7%

Comment: This quite rare Single Malt offers autumnal fruit and leafs, (blood) oranges, grapefruit, sour apple rings (Haribo), catnip, some flowery freshness and acidity.

Score: 88+

Glenrothes 22 y.o. Maltbarn 1996, sherry cask, 48.7%

Comment: This one is my favourite in the bunch along with the Springer, so alive and sexy with leather and spice, orange zest, cinnamon, forest honey, Stollen, raisins, a hint of sherry, perfectly balanced and enticing. Mooooreish!

Score: 90+

Springbank 15 y.o. Maltbarn 2003, sherry cask, 48,9%

Comment: Sprinbank back on top with sheer quality and great oak usage – meaty ham, salt and spice, brine, maritime wind, cookies, brighter and darker fruits (peach, warmth of earth, plums, raisins, redcurrant), Parmigiano Reggiano and blue cheese. Tasty stuff.

Score: 91-

Caol Ila 14 y.o. Maltbarn 2004, 53,7%

Comment: A typical Caol Ila in the right age, very herbal, great palate and a very long finish. Good Islay quaffer!

Score: 88

Aroma: Wie bei vielen Finishes ist das Resultat eher im Geschmack zu finden, die Nose, zeigt den Rum nicht klar an. Dafür ist sie aber richtig fein, ein reif und rund wirkender Ardbeg mit seinen typischen Merkmalen steigt einem in die Nase: Trafobrand, Reifen, Seegras, Jod, salzige Seeluft, Torf, geröstete Kaffeebohnen, Gerbleder, Pfeffer, Chili, Schokolade, Erdnüsse, grüne Kräuter, Spinat, Dill und Aloe Vera. Volles Spektrum. Was hier anders erscheint als bei den klassischen Abfüllungen sind deutliche Kiefernzapfen, Harz, mehr Vanilleanteil mit etwas mehr Holz (keine Angst, der Dram bleibt „spirit-driven“) und ein tropischer Einschlag durch trockene Ananas, Blutorange und Limettensaft. Auch Datteln, Gras und warme Erde (Rindenmulch im Olivenhain) tragen zu diesem leicht süßeren Gesamtbild bei.

Geschmack: Ah, the rum is not gone – hier erkennt man seine Spuren deutlicher als zuvor, jedoch nie aufdringlich. Dieser Ardbeg ist milder und süßer im Antrunk, ohne seinen Charakter zu verlieren – wie ein schön frisierter und in ein Hawaiihemd gesteckter Islay-Fisherman mit Bart und Brusthaar. Ananas, Apfel, Zimt, Banane, Datteln, Olivenöl, Vanille, Kaffee, Leder, Bitterschokolade, Erde und Mulch sowie aromatischer Torfrauch mit Jod. Das ganze ist enorm trinkig und angenehm, Ardbeg für die Sonnenterrasse.

Nachklang: Auch hier kein Kastrat, sondern ein herrlich spaßiger Ardbeg, der keine einzige Offnote aufweist. Zugänglicher, verspielter, etwas leichter, aber dennoch mit Aussage, wie Kinski an einem guten Tag. Der Rum bringt die Jodsüße stärker heraus, angezündetes Streichholz für brennende Kiefernzapfen, Vanilla-Espresso am Strand von Port Ellen mit Torfschwaden im Hintergrund. Could you be loooved …? Indeed. Ich mag ihn.

Bewertung: 89

Nose: Very round, holding back at first – not a loud and aggressive one, finesse is the key. It reminds me of long-gone expressions, which is a good thing: no green notes or aloe vera. Absolutely well-matured, but not in your face. Classic Ardbeg. The sherry had a nice polishing effect without causing a loss the spirit-driven character too much (not a modern make-up). Aside from the softened peat-sulphur-iodine combo I am getting campfire, chocolate cake and coffee immediately, then suede and leather shoes, mustard seed, pepper, chili, Nicaragua tobacco leaf, dates and sultanas, lime zest and the typical aromas associated with Ardbeg. The heat of peppery notes renders a nice counterpart to the sweetness without standing out too much.

Palate: Velvety and smoother than your average Kildalton dram. Softly it coats your mouth for a while, then a peppery bite, brine near the sea, cocoa, really stylish. But you need to take big sips to fully grasp the experience. Lovers of powerful drams might be disappointed a bit, but if you are into harmony without any offnote, this is your choice. I dig this style. Having worked with several Ardbegs in sherry casks myself, I found the effect the very same: raw power turns into mature sweet complexity in the mouth but Islay is still enough there. It is not a weakling. The drinkability is off the chart, but a lower abv might hurt it. We’ll see at what strength the regular version will be bottled.

Finish: Darn good, really seductive, leaving you wishing for more. Flints, soot, sweet peat (does that exist?), iodine, embers, growing bigger by the minute. Kudos, a nice addition to the core range. Chimney sweeper’s delight!

Score: 90

Glentauchers 7 y.o. Archives 2005, Sherry Butt, 52,5%

Comment: Off to a flowery and malty start, green grapes too, quite enticing, I must say. Gingerbread, marzipan bar in chocolate, bark, honey, honeysuckle, dried fruits and orange peel join the nose. It tastes surprisingly raisiny and grapey at first, then becoming dry, malty and honeyed. The long finish is sweet and full of reminiscenses of a fine Chardonnay. Give this one time!

Score: 87+

Deanston 15 y.o. Archives 1997, 55,8%

Comment: I find Deanston a totally underrated distillery, and this dram proves it again – the nose offers loads of peach core aromas and apricot marmelade, a real fruit basket for its age, canned milk, white chocolate, saw dust, vanilla and a discrete smokiness. The greatness, however, is on the palate: great balance of fruit, some Sauternes-like sweetness and the wood. Wow. This loveable Speysider finishes on the sweeter side of life. Moreish!

Score: 89+

Glenrothes 25 y.o. Archives 1988, Refill Sherry Hogshead, 53,0%

Comment: Pot Still Rum?! Could be, but turns into a whisky now: lemon freshness, herbal tea, bergamotte, fruits (apple, apricots) and vanilla on the nose. Nice spices like ginger and chili come in, and quinces, honeysuckle and jasmin. It tastes baroque, full and mature with the spicy edge to keep it interesting. A spicy tail too.

Score: 88+

Glendronach 11 y.o. Archives 2002, Oloroso Sherry Butt 2751, 57,2%

Comment: Dry and spicy Oloroso nose, very nutty. I am getting aromas of pepper, leather, coffee beans, wheatfields, peach liqueur/syrup, canned milk and vanilla. It tastes like a classic Glendronach, altogether more on the spicy side of things without too much sherry domination. Dry oats, crispy malt. It finishes great and sweeter than expected on maraschino cherries and exotic spices. Gimme more!

Score: 89

Bunnahabhain 26 y.o. Archives 1987, Sherry Cask, 50,2%

Comment: Probably my favourite out of this release – big stuff, maraschino cherries, port, cooked raisins, dark chocolate, leather and salt plus that maritime and freshness. In second row there is some white pepper and even more dark fruit. Not overly complex, but soooo nice altogether. On the palate it jumps back and forth between fruity sweetness and spice elements, leaving you with the dark cherry fruit to win, and even more chocolate. Christmas dram!

Score: 90

Ledaig 7 y.o. Archives 2005, Hogshead, 62,8%

Comment: Our friends know what I think of Ledaig 2005 (we bottled one for our club) – and this is a classic example, even one of the better ones. Mustard seeds, polished shoes, apples, iodine  and big flinty aromas. Daddy like!

Score: 90-

Littlemill 21 y.o. The First Editions 1991, 47,7%

This is a great Lowland malt right from the start, mostly on vanilla, American oak (with quite some Bourbon traces) and thyme. I also find other mediterranean herbs, soft smoke, green tea, nettles bark, big marshmallow sweetness (almost like a liqueur in moments), lemon zest, caramel and almonds (Amaretto, especially on the palate). It is powerful in the mouth and less woody than the nose would suggest. Water helps this but adds bitter notes. 88 points.

Bladnoch 21 y.o. The First Editions 1990, 58,3%

Don’t rush this one. It is a very green (herbal) and lemony altogether. I am getting a sharp grassiness on loads of alcohol, some nettles, blue cheese (indeed also the aromas of a fondue with cheese and beef), vanilla and lemon, lemon balm, verbena, orange zest and caramellized orange skins, grapefruit, cardamom and soft smoke. Water releases more orange power and improves the sharpness. 86+ points.

Miltonduff 17 y.o. The First Editions 1995, 59,4%

Andrew Laing and his First Edition Releases

My title on this one would be ‚Apricot Heaven‘. Miltonduff always offers interesting drams that can deliver, and this one is no exception. It starts off very fruity (infusion, tea-like in general) and intense (great concentration). The big aroma is apricot (liqueur, fruit, canned fruit, schnapps, etc.) accompanied by peaches lemon zest, white pepper and vanilla. No water is necessary (but can broaden the mouthfeel) and the sweet Miltonduff maltiness coats the tongue along with wonderful fruit oiliness. Maybe not overly complex but simply nice. 89 points.

Caperdonich 20 y.o. The First Editions 1992, 55,5%

This one didn’t fully convince me but still is a nice but shy dram. It is rather malty with honey, heather, aromatic smoke, cider, white chocolate, ginger and some zestiness (lemon and orange). On the palate it is too hot for my taste (ginger and spices going wild in the ethanol), so I add water: a rounding off-effect takes place but no gain in complexity. 82 points.

Glen Elgin 26 y.o. The First Editions 1985, 46,6%

Nicely concentrated on bergamotte and Asian spices (nutmeg, ginger bread, white pepper). In the second row we find pears, yellow apples, figs and pistachio. The palate shows huge complexity and fruit oils in perfect balance (no water!). I love it but it is hard to pin down the aromas here, maybe spinach and all the aromas above with fruits of all kind … well, let’s say loveable and unique, tightly knit. 90 points.

Bunnahabhain 23 y.o. The First Editions 1989 ‚Bordeaux Finish‘ 50,2%

My favourite dram in this session is this one, although I hadn’t expected the finish to work so well. Well, never judge a book by its cover … . This Bunnie is austere and very complex at the same time, revealing amazing maritime aromas (salt, fresh sea air, ozone-laden sea spray, mossy peat whiffs, etc.). The complexity goes on with jamon on melon, polished leather, black pepper, Roquefort cheese, lemon drops and the notes from the wine (red grapes, raisins, etc.) which really fit here. To me it noses like an old elegant Islay dram from a time gone by, and the palate matches this experience. Soft peat and spice round off the excellent show. Kudos! 91- points.

Clynelish 23 y.o. The First Editions 1988, 50%

This cheesy Clynelish is a funky one with unusually big notes of caramel, (blue) cheese, milk coffee and leather along the typical profile with candelwax, green apples and Atlantic depression moving in. I can’t fully decide if I like this mix in the nose. However, it turns way more classic Clynelish on the palate (plus a little cheese again). This dram screams for a piece of Cheddar. Nice spices in the finish. No water necessary. 88+ points.

Speyside Region (probably Glenfarclas) 17 y.o., Archives ‚The Fishes of Samoa‘ 1995 – 2012, Butt #56, 54 btl., 48,2%

Very regional Speyside indeed, a malty and flowery profile out of a Bourbon cask. Some nuts, vanilla, honeycomb, aniseed and dried fruits in the second row, later becoming more tropical (mango, pineapple), beachy (I know, this word doesn’t exist, but it works for me here) and milky. Very well-balanced and classic, quite a quaffer. A little water doesn’t change a lot, but more H2O creates a soft dram with even more complexity and ferns like a Bowmore occassionally: amazing, try it. 89 points.

Tormore 29 y.o. Archives ‚The Fishes of Samoa‘ 1984 – 2013, Barrel 3669, 90 btl., 51,0%

Big exotic fruitiness (all kinds, mostly oranges, pink grapefruits, pineapple, Guava, Bergamot), vanilla, pepper, canned milk, dried moss, a trace of ginger, Blue Mountain coffee, lilac and white oak – all that seemingly older, quite bold. The palate is much oakier than expected, with spice, chili, ginger and fruit in a fight, like a hot Caribbean dish. Water improves the balance and pushes the dram closer to its outstanding olfactory profile. 87+ points.

Bunnahabhain 40 y.o. Archives ‚The Fishes of Samoa’1973 – 2013, Butt 3463, 156 btl., 50,6%

Banana-Rum (Arcane)! Huge sweetness, vanilla, citrus fruit attack, passion fruit, yellow X-mas candles, flower honey, discrete oak and salt, really high class. On the palate, the banana is still huge and the immense fruit oils are accompanied by some linseed and soap (puts me off a bit). Almost no aok after 40 years. This one is a stunner – only the soapy touch is not for me, others might not even taste it, so my score might be too low – it could have been a 92 without it. 89+ points.

Don’t mess with me!

Glenrothes 18 y.o. The Maltman, Bourbon Cask, 50,8%

Grilled marshmallow and a lot of Bourbon cask influence right away (white oak, vanilla, fudge) with heather, honeycomb, pineapple, melon, apricot ice cream, pistachio and just a hint of smoke in the nose. The oakiness with bitter elements dominates the taste and is a bit closed at first. Water really opens up this dram and unlocks the complexity and aromas of the nose. Medium length finish on this classic mature Bourbon cask Speysider. 86 points.

Mortlach 22 y.o. The Maltman, Bourbon Cask, 46%

The first reminiscence one gets is thick smoke when a good steak is turned on the grill. This meaty and smoky base is accompanied by Italian herbs (mainly rosemary, sage and thyme, but also bay leaf), peaches, dried fruits, sandal wood, earth, milk, caramel and vanilla. Barrel-fermented Chardonnay might work as a wine comparison. Wow, this tastes as good as it noses, really well-balanced with all aromas dancing on a small pin of a needle. The smoke delivers such a perfect counterpart to the other aromas. A more-ish dram with a long finish. High class. 90 points.

Isle of Arran 16 y.o. The Maltman, Oloroso Sherry Cask, 46%

Dark cake with loads of different cherries, which come from the Oloroso cask. Maraschino, Amarena ice sauce from Italy, morello jam, you name it. A nice spiciness (salt, pepper, curry, Asian aromas), darker bread dough, raisins, summer flowers, and more without anything dominating (aside from the cherries in the first row). It tastes spicy and full of life with tingles. One of my favourite Arrans from a great sherry cask that doesn’t change distillery character too much. Kudos! 89 points.

Cask Sample: Ledaig 7 y.o. The Maltman (Bourbon Cask)

For years now, I have been introducing Ledaig to my friends as a wonderful dram with peaty qualities that doesn’t need to hide from any South Coast Islay whisky. My collection of 1972s can show the capacityin taste, and the 2005 is such a great distillate as well. That’s why we chose to bottle a Ledaig 2005 as our club bottling (soon tho be released, only a matter of weeks). This one, still a cask sample from the same time, makes no difference. Already great, but needs to mature for three more years or so. Love it already (89-91 points)!

P.S.: Between sample sets, there was a Springbank 17 y.o. (dark vatting) which I strongly recommend (90+ points) if you can find it (there are still some around). As it tastes a lot like the old sherried stuff (green thistle release, etc.), it is a real bargain for  around 115.- Euro at cask strength.

Bladnoch 21 y.o. The Whiskyman & The Bonding Dram 1991 – 2012, Bourbon barrel, 118 btl., 52,9%

Comment: Vanilla and white peach lead the way, pretty expressive right from the start with some freshly cut grass  and lemon zest lurking in the background plus the white oak being there in medium intensity. I also get white pepper and spinach. Well balanced in the nose and on the palate, which displays a typical Bourbon wood-maturation profile with loads of toffee, peaches, pear drops and vanilla again, all that rather unrestrained. Water sends the dram in a bitter and greener direction, I prefer it straight. The finish is oakier than expected but clearly within limits. A fun Lowlander, no doubt (and thanks, Jeroen).

Score: 87

Springbank 17 y.o. The Maltman (Meadowside Blending), Sherry cask, 46%

Comment: Unusual first whiffs that remind me of a pile of wood in the forest on a summer day. Pine needles, fir trees, and really dark chocolate, strange but in a good and different way. Cured ham, salt and mustard seed join the winey traces of the sherry cask in this dram. This one really needs time to unfold: after 10 minutes, I can detect peaches, maritime freshness and some spices but all that behind the forest motif. Does the walk in the woods continue on the palate? Yes and no, this is quite earthy (a slight peatiness surpised me) and noble on dark mahogani wood notes, mushrooms, excellent sherry, Culatello ham and discrete hints of various fruits in the background, really old-fashioned and lovely! The finish is long and shows the same balance and aromas mentioned but adds burnt wood. This is not your common dram, it brings back memories of a trip to the woods with your grandfather, probably a real gentleman of his time. Not for everyone, but for those who love to explore whisky variation. It grows on you, great pick!

Score: 89+

Ardbeg 12 y.o. SMWS 33.114 (Scotch Malt Whisky Society – Sweet versus Savoury) 1999 – 2011, refill sherry butt, 630 btl., 56,3%

Comment: A very spicy start with quite some eucalypt/agave/menthol aromas going on alongside the peat, brine, roots, herbs and some chalky oak. In second row I find the more typical notes of cocoa dust, tire store, Arabica beans and very discrete sherry. The taste is more typical of a classic Ardbeg than the nose would suggest, simply good. No water needed, but it swims well. Great iodine and matchstick sulphur in the very long finish. Daddy like !

Score: 88

Port Charlotte 9 y.o. SMWS 127.18 (Scotch Malt Whisky Society) 2002 – 2012, refill Bourbon barrel, 66,1%

Comment: Rhum agricole with peat, what a start! Like a lovely flower bouquet handed to you inside a peat-smoked kiln. Without water it plays it close to the chest. Menthol, camomile, iodine, charcoal, that’s about it in the nose and on the palate. Let’s add water: It unfolds now on smoke, barley sugar, roots, heather, apple skin, salt, sea spray, nettles, resin, chalk and oak. A wild ride around the ash tray altogether, I’d say. The whisky seems younger than other PCs from that era somehow.

Score: 87

Laphroaig 10 y.o. SMWS 29.108 (Scotch Malt Whisky Society – An Angel in a Sauna wearing Wellies) 2001 – 2011, refill Bourbon Hogshead, 28z btl., 56,8%

Comment: Although the angel and the sauna part in the titleof this bottling is bull – I can really smell the wellies (accompanied by peat and green stuff like herbs and celp). A great Laphroaig with loads of personality. Nothing fancy, just a great Southcoast Islay dram that needs no explanation. An ideal ‚for-the-road‘ whisky at the end of your tasting session that puts a smile on everybody’s face and guides them home with the warmth of a peat fire. No water necessary. Kudos!

Score: 90

Laphroaig 17 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Fights‘ 1995 – 2012, Bourbon barrel, 253 btl., 53,9%

The Whisky Agency's new series 'Fights'

Comment: Wonderful start with a great integration of all Laphroaigs elements. I am getting vanilla, white oak, herbs, nettles, peat, brine, iodine, rusty fish trawler smells, ropes, pepper, old Golden Delicious apples, softly boiled potatoes with butter on top, lemon dash and grapefruit. Wow! On the palate it delivers as well, I adore how it is wild and mild at the same time. My beloved flintstone and matchstick sulphur shows up in the long peaty finish with chalky oak and some vanilla traces. No water necessary, but it can swim. Kudos, I really like this dram (having a weak spot for Laphroaig anyway).

Score: 90

Bunnahabhain 21 y.o. Single Cask Collection 02.12.1991 – 2012, Bourbon Hogshead 5468, 49,1%

Comment: Great and typical start with salty notes and maritime freshness, well-balanced with a good malt-cask-ratio that renders quite some complexity. There is a sweet and fruity base (caramelized fruits like peaches, pineapple, orange zests and such, toffee, marshmallows, honey) underneath this oceanic beauty paired with a typical charcoaled white-oak influence, heather, elderflower, tinned condensed milk and some almonds. I can also smell traces of peat. On the palate it shows a malty and tannic back at first, then it plays the maritime card with discrete peatiness. Without water it stays a bit shut down, but H2O (recommended) brings back the multitude of aromas it had in the nose and makes the hard shell smooth. The medium-length finish leaves you with the wish for another glass – good Bunnie again, but not a loud dram in your face, rather subtle and austere. At a price point of 69.- Euros, this is good value and pairs amazingly with shrimp or lobster.

Score: 89

Bunnahabhain 43 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Sea Life‘ 1968 – 2012, refill sherry butt, 498 btl., 47,0%

Comment: Excellent right from the start! It posesses a hugely fruity nose (this tropical and sour fruitiness I adore – passion fruit, melon, guava, grapefruit, kiwi, etc.) with maritime elements in the background and quite a combo of caramel and vanilla. A cookie-like and rather discrete oakiness is kept at bay by the ever-present fruits and whiffs of coconuts, almonds, late-harvest Riesling, heather honey, marshmallows and spring flowers. A really complex dram yet easy to like. On the palate it has more power and spice than one would expect, somehow not as well integrated as its nose – so let’s add water: yes, that was the key, now the beautiful aroma is translated all the way into the finish. A wonderful oldie, absolutely worth the 225.- Euro.

Score: 90-

Bunnahabhain 21 y.o. Archives 12.1990 – 03.2012, fresh sherry cask #14, 62 btl., 52,3%

Comment: This one is clearly sherried and comes from a good cask. Aside from the salt and parma ham, I am getting notes of morello cherries, plums, raisins and marzipan – yep, Christmas cake-like. Pepper and beef jerky complete the nose. On the palate it is less complex and the raisins and the marzipan take the lead along with wet dark wood planks. Then the dram turns dry towards a sherry- and cherry-laden finish. Water brings out even more raisins (some love that), which dominate the finale. The other aromas are there but more in the background. Very drinkable and suitable as a X-mas dram for sure.

Score: 88

Bunnahabhain 21 y.o. TheWhiskyCask 1990 – 2012, sherry butt, 54,0%

Comment: At first nosing, this darker Bunnie is very similar to the Archive bottling above but it is a bit more closed and dry, spicier (pepper, chili), less fruity overall. Prunes and plums, freshly ground Sicilian coffee, dark chocolate filled with cherry schnaps (Mon Cheri), Vintage Port wine and dark wood are the main elements. In the mouth it is even closer to its sibling from above, but it is more restrained with bigger coffee notes and a drier finish. Water helps a lot here and makes it much more enjoyable and complex. For sherry-heads, though.

Score: 88

Caol Ila 30 y.o. Archives 1982 – 2012, Bourbon Hogshead 758, 207 btl., 51,2%

Comment: Unusually fruity at first whiff but still with the typical peaty DNA of Caol Ila or even the one of older medicinical Islay drams like Ardbeg (indeed) but only for seconds. This amazing stuff turns towards mineral austerity after a while and then displays fruit again – a tightrope dancer with impeccable balance between these worlds. I am getting lemon zest, salt, olive oil, tarry tires, chalky and discrete oak, minty freshness, tropical fruits (peaches, pineapple, banana), herbs for soups and only a little juniper. This is mature Islay whisky for the connoisseur of elegant drams. No water needed.

Score: 90+

Caol Ila 28 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Sea Life‘ 1984 – 2012, ex-Bourbon Hogshead, 254 btl., 53,5%

Comment: Same basic maritime style minus the fruitiness of above’s bottling, yet wonderfully austere and mineral again with a touch of lemon zest. This is spicier and more Talisker-esque, dare I say. The peat layer is thin and and very elegant but develops some grip on the palate. Chalky oak again, tar, burning embers and juniper combine in great balance with wonderful of sea salt on the palate. Great choice.

Score: 89

Caol Ila 21 y.o. TheWhiskyCask 1990 – 2012, Bourbon Cask, 55%

Comment: This one is different, a farmyardy and herbal peater with quite some spice (white pepper, coriander, a little cinnamon), altogether the most typical of the three (white pepper,olive oil, juniper, lemon chicken, suede leather) – and it is notably younger and a little less balanced, but has more power and oak. The dry attack with some sulphury moments is best tamed with some drops of water.

Score: 86

On Friday, a 1993 even won the tasting in Landshut: It was Andrea Caminneci’s C&S Dram at 18 years and 51,4% (90+ points for me). So let’s see if this version can keep up:

Glen Keith 19 y.o Whisky-Fässle „Duck Edition“ 10.1992 – 07.2012, Bourbon Cask, 49,1%

Comment: The first whiff already tells a novel – another great Glen Keith that could be a poster child for how Bourbon casks should influence a spirit, a quality being typical of Glen Keith. Loads of vanilla, dried fruits (pineapple!) and white oak (plus the spices going with that) followed by natural caramel, flowers (pollen), honey, mango, melon, pear, orange, Sauvignon blanc (gooseberries) and a slight hint of cloves – all this is well-balanced. The taste doesn’t let you down either and the oakiness is just as loud as necessary. Fruit oils caress the tongue and even some coconut can be found. The long and tasty finish makes you want to pair this bottling with a creme brulee or stuff like that. A dash of water brings out even more fruit. A malt also for Bourbon lovers. Kudos, Jens! Hurry up to get a bottle, guys …

Score: 90

To warm up for this event, let’s have a dram from the local Swabian bottler Whisky-Fässle:

Tomintoul 44 y.o. Whisky-Fässle ‚Duck Edition‘ 1968 – 2012, Bourbon Hogshead, 45,5%

Comment: A great tropical fruit basket on the sour, flowery-light and fresh side with just the right amount of white oak despite 44 years of age. Just to name a few aromas, I am getting passion fruit, mango guave, green banana, pineapple, lime, a pinch of white pepper, vanilla cream, acacia honey, malt, candyfloss and macadamia nuts. All that is well-balanced, and it is not another banana-boat. It tastes wonderful, I must say, starting lightly but then building up more and more (with all these beautiful scents mentioned). A little malty, oaky and spicy grip after swallowing ends the growth period and leads into a vanilla-toffee and oak-laden finish with the fruits hovering around. Long echo! A drop of water levels out the bite if you want to have it super-smooth. A great oldie all the way.

Score: 90+

Littlemill 20 y.o. Liquid Library (The Whisky Agency) 1992 – 2012 Bourbon Hogshead, 313 btl., 51,6%

Comment: Nice one again, aahhh, wonderful freshness and amazing complexity! I am getting green grass, spinach, pine needle, vanilla, fudge toffee, sweet malt, thyme and rosemary, cinnamon, cilantro, cardamom, pepper, ginger ale, smoke, wet earth, nutty elements, pineapple, maraschino cherries and plums. It tastes very fruity and vanilla-toffee-like, berries, malt, spice and grass join in. The finish brings back all aromas of the nose in soft waves. Kudos, one of the best Bourbon cask Littlemill from those years up to date, i.m.h.o.!

Score: 90

Littlemill 22 y.o. Malts of Scotland MoS 28.03.1989 – 05.2011, sherry butt 2511, 325 btl., 52,8%

Comment: Smokier, slightly darker, sherried and spicier than its predecessor. Surprisingly rummy as well but overall the same fresh profile (rosemary, thyme, pine needle, maraschino sherry, pineapple, plums, cinnamon, cardamom, smoke). The taste is on the herbal side and displays a dark woodiness of the fine kind – there must have been great sherry casks used at Littlemill back in the late 1980ies. The depth of the finish is breathtaking. High quality!

Score: 91

Littlemill 23 y.o. TheWhiskyCask 1988 – 2012, first-fill sherry butt, 54,9%

Comment: Way darker stuff! It possesses beautiful aromas of old sherry casks in this noble style – like early 1970 Bowmore wood, I daresay, clearly there but unobtrusive. This one adds cigar and humidor notes to the earthy smokiness, very close to the excellent 1989 sherry cask releases by Archives and Whisky-Fässle (check their tasting notes here on the page by following the link above). Great balance, too, amazing! The taste has dry moments and the other features of such casks while bringing the usual qualities to the table as well, just a darker style that dampens the profile a bit overall.

Score: 90+

Bonus:

Littlemill 22 y.o. Liquid Library (The Whisky Agency) 1989 – 2011, sherry wood, 221 btl., 48,3%

Comment: A bit thinner and more fragile than the bottlings before but a great Littlemill nonetheless. Like the smoother and softer brother of the MoS release.

Score: 89

No words make sense here: R.I.P. Tommy

Springbank 13 y.o. OB Pot Still Edition 1997, Sherry Hogshead #296, 216 btl., 57,1%

Comment: This departs from the recent austere style, it is lush and full of dark cooked fruits, but the sherry is a bit too intense and monodimensional in here to be a great one – the saltiness saves it. Altogether, a good dram for lovers of very sherried drams (thanks, Reinhard).

Score: 88

Springbank 14 y.o. OB Jazz Edition (selected by Hans Offringa) bottled 2010, Cream Sherry Butt, 600 btl., 56%

Comment: A raisin-driven and spicy (peppery) dram with quite some power. I also get a good maltiness wrapped in honey and salt. Decent, but not a must-have, recommended with water.

Score: 84

Ardbeg 5 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 33.112 ‚Powerful, elegant and atmospheric‘ 20.12.2005 – 2011, 2nd-fill sherry butt, 252 btl., 60,8%

Comment: It doesn’t smell that young, quite a surpise. A rather typical Ardbeg on the mineral, green and farmyardy side again with nice citrus and Granny Smith apple notes. The peat, resin, smoke, burnt tires on hot tar, sulphur, iodine, discrete chalky oak from those refilled sherry casks (that go perfect with Ardbeg i.m.h.o.), mustard seed, chocolate, spinach and jet fuel aromas have some acidity to them. I am also getting sandy pebbles on the beach. Rather complex for such a youngster, not at all an alcohol-driven nose. The palate is a powerhouse, really punchy without being spicy or unpolished, no offnote here! What an Ardbeg! A monster without being rough. Long finish with big iodine, tires and soot! I used to say that Ardbeg takes some time to unfold, but this dram seems to be an exception. Impressive and very South Coast Islay. Water is not necessary but makes it more accessible to some fainter hearted natures.

Score: 90+

Ardbeg 11 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 33.115 ‚Man, that’s braw!‘ 31.08.1999 – 09.2011, refill sherry butt, 578 btl., 55,4%

Comment: This is less powerful and dryer than the 5 y.o. contender because the refill sherry cask has done a good  ‚rounding-off the edges-job‘ without being very obvious or sweet (unobtrusive in background) – a rather inactive cask like the one above has been used, but over 100% more time of ageing took place. There are nice white pepper and chili notes, eucalypt, nettles, pu-erh tea, plums, prunes, apples, peat, chalky oak, iodine, aromatic smoke and sulphur. Asian spices and chocolate join in on the palate with sherry traces and green tea – later plums and the peat-sulphur-iodine-combo. If the 112 is the mineral and fresh Riesling from Rheinhessen, this one is your typical Barossa Shiraz (in wine analogy terms speaking). I prefer the Riesling this time.

Score: 89

Littlemill 22 y.o. The Whisky Agency ‚Sea Life‘ 1990 – 2012, refill sherry butt, 719 btl., 52,2%

New Whisky Agency Bottlings (Sea Life and more)

Comment: Cookie-like (sweet malt) and very complex. All kinds of fruit (also maraschino cherry), green elements (fresh grass, herbs), huge vanilla notes, natural caramel, almonds, quite some coconut, cinnamon, white oak, dry earth and a little peat, all well mixed. The palate is just as fine as the nose with impeccable balance. Sour fruitiness with some berries (cassis), coconut, apple crumble with vanilla sauce, ginger, lemon zest in medium weight show up as well. The fruits get bigger in the finish (hello pineapple), wrapped in gentle peat and oak. It makes you want another glass. Adorable, just like a cookie-coconut dessert!

Score: 89+

Littlemill 21 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 97.21 ‚Laurel, meadowsweet and honeysuckle‘, 07.03.1990 – 2011, first-fill barrel, 217 btl., 54,7%

Comment: Fruity (pears, cherry, plum, passion fruit) and oaky at first with this amazingly sweet malt note like Macallan (sorry for repeating this, the maltiness is just very similar). There also is vanilla, cookie and caramel, but less intense than in the Sea Life release due to louder wood. In addition I am getting cocnut and hazelnut, cinnamon, grass and peat, so the two Lowlanders are not far from each other. On the palate it reveals the Littlemill fruit and grass charm with slightly more wood than usual, somehow it is sweet n‘ sour and oozes beautiful Indian spices. It finishes just like that with the oak in domination. That is its weakness, but on a high level.

Score: 86+

Where the FUCK are my cookies?

I loved the ‚Cowboy’s Campfire Dram‘ release (SMWS 29.102), an amazing Laphroaig. Let’s see how these two compare in a head-to-head:

Laphroaig 12 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 29.105, ‚Massive and volcanic‘, 25.3.1999 – 8.2011, Refill Sherry Butt, 619 btl., 59,6%

Comment: Typical, very dirty, peaty and maritime with a green herbal touch, hot ash, slight mint aromas, much salt and pepper, mustard seed and a very discrete sherry influence. The power on the palate is enormous, what an explosion of peat and spice with heavy oily aromas, untamed Islay to the core, then my beloved matchstick sulphur and soot set in for good and the dram ends on these notes – smoother than expected – but still monstrous. I like it without water for its punchiness, but water makes it very well rounded and accessible. Try for yourself.

Score: 90

Laphroaig 20 y.o. Scotch Malt Whisky Society SMWS 29.104, ‚Not for wee boys‘, 12.10.1990 – 2011, refill sherry butt, 584 btl., 58,2%

Comment: Something went wrong with this cask, a bit of fungi, rubber and rotten sherry cover and dull down the usual Laphroaig features, but there also are nice aromas of ginger bread, curry and forest floor (Ben Nevis-like). Chocolate, sauerkraut and bacon add to the mix, a really unusual one. I am not yet decided. The taste is a bit more Laphroaig now (spicier than nose) but still in the same camp, quite sweet, then heavy peat smoke, the finish finally displays South coastal Islay features in a more typical way (soot, sulphur, peat, iodine). Worth a try, yet uncommon. No water needed.

Score: 86

To celebrate this I am going to publish this review from a session with fellow Maniac Keith Wood. We also featured the Ronnie Routledge bottle on our stands at fairs recently where people loved it. Here is why:

Glenglassaugh 35 y.o. OB The Chosen Few No. 1 – Ronnie Routledge, May 1976 – 2011, Sherry Butt, 654 btl., 49,6%

Comment: What a fruit basket, mostly on passion fruit, pineapple, plum and huge apricot jam notes, slightly cristalline and very clean. The complexity is amazing. We also found vanilla, natural caramel, elderflower, violets, lilacs, grass, herbs, candyfloss, honey, a hint of licorice and the smell of rising pretzel and dark bread dough in the oven. On the palate it turns more herbal and posesses way more bite than expected (a peppery influence) without ever losing the big dextrose fruitiness. The finish reveals frothed milk, malt, oatmeal, Vermouth and soft echoes of the passion fruit and apricot. The oak is always very discrete. Who wouldn’t ask for a second sip of this nectar? To put it in a nutshell, this is another stunning single cask from Portsoy in a style of days gone by – and slightly different from the others I had so far. If you want to compare, click here and here and here.

Score: 90

P.S.: A friend of mine was so kind to provide me with an unreleased sip af a 1967 Glassa from a sherry cask. It blew me away, 92 points. The only downside to this dram was that is turned a bit dry but aside from that it was merely perfect on dark and even some brighter cristalline and cooked fruits (many maraschino cherries), coffee and chocolate, broodingly powerful. Forgive me that I am predictable here, but these profiles of secondary and tertiary aromas with high complexity and clean character are right down my alley. Kudos, Glenglassaugh!

Glenfarclas 2001 – 2011 OB ‚The Family Casks‘ for Potstill (Vienna), first-fill Sherry Cask 2819, 318 btl., 60,1%

Comment: To put it short and sweet, this Farclas has a classic dark sherry profile with morello cherries and jam, ginger bread, dark chocolate, dark wet wood, mahogani, caramel and a hint of aniseed (typical of Glenfarclas), all well-balanced and powerful. A recommendation for you Sherry-heads out there!

Score: 90

Glen Spey 35 y.o. Maltbarn 1977 – 2012, Bourbon Barrel, 124 btl., 52,4%

Comment: Hello big big vanilla, it is also nice to meet your friend from white oak country (sorry for that, this smell caught me by surprise). These main aromas already reveal that it is a huge Glen Spey. Nutty components (coconut oil, almonds, salted peanuts and green walnut), quite some toffee caramel, white chocolate and a pleasant fruitiness (peaches, oranges, lemon zest, pear) join the mix and all have their say. Behind that I find only traces of the expected licorice and grass – and some flowery aromas, white pepper, hints of cinnamon and dry malt. Some time is recommended for this nose because the elements behind the big vanilla-toffee-nut-combo are less obvious. The taste is departing a bit from the olfactory analysis (not completely, but really noticeable) – I expected huge creamy and vanilla-laden oiliness but the whisky actually bears more malt, grass, licorice, honey and wood with tingling spice, a bit green and bitter – as I remember these distillates. The newer palatal tastes dominate now, strange but interesting: two malts in one. The fruit comes through after some seconds until the oak eats it up. Aniseed and herbs complete it. Acceptable balance altogether. The finish is very long on warm oak, nuts, green notes (all kinds),  fruit echoes and consists of 2/3 of the palate and 1/3 of the nose, I’d say. One of the good Glen Speys, congrats Martin, good pick.

Score: 88

Spirit Hunter: Simon Thompson

White wines from Ugni blanc and Colombar varietals from the Bordeaux region are first double distilled (“à repasse”) in traditional copper pot-stills and then set down to mature in oak casks, only to be woken from a deep slumber – like a sleeping beauty – by a subject of Her Royal Majesty, who has fallen in love with this absolutely unique elixir from Bordeaux. Inspired by the region’s wine making craftsmanship and rich history, resolutely contemporary, the Thompson’s® range offers uniquely selected “eaux-de-vie”, exclusively from the Bordeaux region. The shared history between Bordeaux, Aquitaine and England is long and rich. The discovery of this forgotten treasure will add a new page to that special relationship.

As I love a good brandy, I am curious to try these rare distillates. Only a few hundred bottles of the 25 and 30 year old versions exist. Find out more about them here. Simon Thompson wants to become an established producer in Bordeaux. But can his distillates become rivals for cognacs. Unique, they are! To answer that, let’s try all three currently available versions:

Thompson’s Single Distillery Finest French Grape Brandy, 40%

Comment: On paper, this is not the real deal yet (hence the name) because it is only married with a little Fine Bordeaux A.O.R. However, I am positively surpised. The mixing seems to enhance complexity and the Limousin oak did a good job. The lead notes are hay, straw, dried flowers (geranium)

Union Jack Version

and licorice, which don’t immediately become associated with brandy. In fact, it is a bit whisky-like at first nosing, somehow between the worlds. I am also getting vanilla, soft peppery spice, raisins, green grapes, crystallized oranges, lemons and pineapples. On the palate it clearly presents itself as a grape distillate in a very gentle, light and slightly creamy style. The vanilla and the brighter fruits get bolder and are well in tune with the licorice and hay. This youngest version also finishes like it tastes, a real smooth and light sipper of good quality.

Score: 86

Thompson’s Fine Bordeaux 25 y.o. A.O.R. Single Distillery, Very Limited Edition, 40%

Comment: This brandy actually is 26 years old and way heavier and deeper in style than its predecessor, also more typical. Wonderful aromas of tobacco and soft smoke from fine cigars in cedar wood caress the nose as well as some rancio, marzipan and vanilla. Intriguing Indian restaurant smells join in (sandalwood sticks, Tandoori, Ghee butter, curry), very interesting. There also are raisins, prunes, dates, cherries in chocolate, ginger bread, dough, lemon grass, crystallized citrus fruits, pineapple and a whiff espresso to be found in this complex combo. This complexity translates into the palate and the long finish in a full and slightly creamy style that bears gentle smoothness. The raisins take center stage without going overboard. This is better than many cognacs of the same price category. Recommendation!

Score: 89+

Thompson’s Fine Bordeaux 30 y.o. A.O.R. Single Distillery, Very Limited Edition, 40%

Comment: Here comes the ‚headliner‘, actually being 33 years of age. And how those seven more years in Limousin oak make a difference! There is so much going on in this Fine Bordeaux, amazing. A wonderfully balanced nose without any edges and a depth that displays perfect maturity that reminds me of an old Demerara Rum or a heavily sherried Speyside whisky (Glenfarclas) in its thirties but with still enough trademark brandy features. It is sweeter and darker than the 25. This kind of complexity leaves me speechless: Muscovado sugar molasses, lit cigar, humidor, cedar wood, chocolate-covered coffee beans (mocca), vanilla pod, mahogani, sandal wood, marzipan, old balsamico vinegar, fresh dough, ginger bread, soft smoke, flowerpot earth, geranium, malt beer, walnut liqueur and many fruity elements (dried apricots, prunes with a Hoisin Sauce touch, dates, red grapes and raisins, crystallized oranges and lemon skin) and what not – I kid you not, it’s all there! This elixir from Bordeaux coats the tongue and mouth in fat and creamy fashion and finishes at medium length. Utter bliss. Imagine this dram in cask strength. It would easily rival great cognacs. A ‚must-have‘ at a price point below 100.- Euro.

Score: 92

P.S.: I kept this article back to celebrate the first birthday of this blog (not the page) – which is today :)! Thanks for reading, everyone. Here’s to many more years!

Highland Park 10 y.o. G&M Reserve, 15. June 1995 – 1. May 2006, Refill Sherry Hogshead 1329, 307 btl., 57,9%

Comment: Great maritime freshness and discrete sherry, also herbal (thyme, minty menthol) and softly smoky. There also are aromas of cole slaw, heather and turkish delight in the well-balanced mix. Some tasters found traces of ‚Gletscher Eis‘ drops, an old German sweet with the so called freshness of a glacier. Mmmh. Isn’t it lovely how whisky aromas conjure up childhood memories. On the palate there is a lot of natural caramel in company with the already mentioned notes. A long finish, really an allrounder with so much going on, Scotland in a glass. I just bought another bottle for 59.- Euro a month ago.

Score: 91–

Glen Garioch 36 y.o. Douglas Laing Platinum Selection 1967 – 2003, 132 btl., 55,5%

Comment: Definitely a classic in a timeless style. Leather, earthy smoke, spices (also ginger) and glue, honey, dark wood, morello cherries and peaches caress the nose. On the palate, it is a real powerhouse with bright and dark elements in one (which I love). The spiciness bites but there also is a great maltiness. Aditionally, armchair seat aromas emerge. A tiny drop of water helps this dram to become creamier, rounder and more accessible overall – but avoid more H2O as it also evokes soapy elements (not uncommon in 1960 Gariochs). The finish is long and warming on spices, malt, leather, mahogani and pralines. A heavy old malt with distinction.

Score: 90

Tomintoul 33 y.o. OB 43%

Comment: Welcome to the flowershop! Pollen! Hay, mint and grass! This is nice if this is your style. It is very light and fragile. Our tasting panel also got acacia honey, rising dough (pretzels), dextrose, star fruit, quince and the obligatory banana (green in this case). This soft character continues on the palate, a very flowery experience. Light but complex, I must say. The finish of this Speysider is more on the short side on licorice and – you got it – dried flowers. Gentle it is!

Score: 88

Teaninich 28 y.o. The First Editions 1982 – 2011, Cask ES 004/01, 49,5%

Comment: Indeed an autumnal fruit basket (green apples, peaches and peach liqueur, plums and a hint of banana) with vanilla, toffee (from a Mars bar, unfried that is ;)) and oaky aromas plus green tea, mint, macadamia, hazelnut straw and big spicy elements (white pepper). Fruit and oak also dominate the palate at first, then vanilla takes over. The spice is big but still within borders. Water helps a lot here as it softens the oakiness and creates a pleasant oiliness. The finish reverberates the mentioned aromas and adds honey, linseed oil, sweet maltiness and Werther’s Originals-toffee. I wouldn’t call this a typical austere Highland Malt but a quite typical Teaninich – and a good one, by the way.

Score: 87+

Tenuta San Guido ‚Sassicaia‘ 1997, Bolgheri, 13%

Comment: The nose of this classic at its peak of maturity reveals leather (suede), game, nutty steak, blackberry, green bell pepper, herbs from the Provence, red earth and  bricks, pencil shavings and graphite, exotic spices and a discrete note of toasted wood. I am glad it is not ‚modern‘. This Sassicaia posesses a breathtaking balance and a lively acidity still. This acidity helps the wine to a great sustain in the mouth which it coats completely at a medium dryness with fine tannins. The finish lasts very long and is highly quaffable at the same time. There is not much to dislike. The only thing one could miss is more fruity glycerine with a fresh and hedonistic touch to it, it is more subdued overall. However, I liked it a lot and compare it to the wonderful 1995, which was a bit fresher.

By the way, we had this with an Irish oxen rump steak and some antipasti, as these pictures show. My friend Christian Thoma, who is going to duel me soon in selecting wine in front of public tasters, only deserves the royal treatment. It was a pleasure, your highness.

Score: 96 (2012)

Wine enthusiast Christian also wrote some reviews for the bottles from our tasting in German (please click here). I mostly go along with his observations, but I liked the Van Volxem Riesling Sekt more than he did (like some participants). I already posted impressions and a picture of my highlights here. Here are my scores and occassional short notes:

What we actually had ...

Van Volxem ‚Riesling brut‘ Winzersekt 2002 Saar Steillage 12%

Score: 92 (2012) –  A wonderful and fruity Saar Riesling taste with discrete residual sweetness and acidity translated into a sparkling wine theme with good moussage. Not as rigid and mighty/complex like the subsequent Champaign, but very well done and fun to drink.

Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve rosé 2002 Champagne brut 12,5%

Score: 91+ (2012) – technically better than the predecessor with great Pinot Noir character and a solid backbone, yet not vibrant somehow.

Oasi degli Angeli ‚Kurni‘ 2006 Marche IGT rosso, 15%

Score: 93 (2012) – Our friend Gregor brought this along (thanks again). All we knew about it was that it was a Montepulciano, so we placed it early in the line-up. What a mistake. This is anything but typical, all on concentration and fruit power at 15%, almost like an Australian Shiraz. It splitted the audience. Extract like an Amarone, quite dry, overripe fruit, a monster, that somehow doesn’t fit but tastes nice, nevertheless. Mmmh.

Fattoria Petrolo ‚Galatrona‘ 2001, 13,5%

Score: 92 (2012) – Great things were said about this Merlot (made near Arezzo). It had the basic and enjoyable notes of a well-made Tuscan Merlot but somehow it had farmyardy elements in it, not very elegant but complex. Let’s also take into account that it followed a monster. However, it can’t hold a candle to a Masseto or Messorio. I heard that the 2004 was way better.

Attila Gere ‚SOLUS‘ 2004 Kopar/Villany, 14,5%

Score: 95+ (2012) – This ‚pirate‘, a famous Merlot from Hungary’s best winemaker, really rocked and saved Merlot’s honour on that night. I can understand why it has beaten a Petrus once in a blind tasting. Really excellent and a recommendation at a great price!

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 1996 Pauillac, 1er Cru Cl., 12,5%

Score: 97 (2012) – First Growth as it should be, and in a style of days gone by. Really deep and classic. Pure pleasure for experienced drinkers.

Domaine P. Usseglio ‚Cuvée de mon Aieul‘ 2003 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, 14,5%

Score: 91 (2012) – Parker elevated this one to 100 points (Hedonist Gazette), so we were excited. On the palate and in the finish, this wine fell apart, it had liqueurish and compote-like fruitiness and blueberry yoghurt notes with some herbs (Provence), pepper and forest floor, but that was all. A disappointment.

Vega Sicilia / Bodegas Alion ‚ALION‘ 2001 Reserva, Ribera del Duero, 14%

Score: 95+ (2012) – Great Tempranillo with the finest of tannins, impressive for almost everyone at the table. Tobacco, a touch of wood, steak, cool minerality, blackberry, cranberry, vibrant acidity, forest floor and much more. Recommendation!

Weingut Hans Igler ‚Ried Kart‘ 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Deutschkreuz (Burgenland), 13,5%

Score: 93- (2012) – the youngster among the line-up and a surprise by Christian, who added it to our original range. Thanks! This bottle from the hottest vineyard in the Deutschkreutz-area could hold its own, but we drank it too young, it still was a bit closed. Biting tannins and acidity, youthful freshness and fruitiness (to unfold: cassis, cherry), fresh wood, compact body.

Kanonkop ‚Paul Sauer‘ 2002, Stellenbosch, 14%

Score: 95 (2012) – I love South African Hedonism in wines with their exotic spices. This example is one of the finest bottles from the Cape and can age very well. Leather, loads of terroir, fireworks, fruit, wow. Recommendation again, if this is your style.

Penfolds ‚BIN 95 – Grange‘ 2002, Barossa Valley, 14,5%

Score: 96+ (2012) – Most of all, I loved that it isn’t this modern monster one expects from Australian Shiraz. It is very well-balanced and complex. Of course it bears typicality, but in a very fine style. Not to be missed and a piece of wine history. Still one of the benchmarks.

Hobbs ‚Gregor‘ Shiraz 2007, Barossa Ranges, 16%

Score: 95 (2012) – Another addition to the line-up from Gregor, the wine actually bears his name! This was an excellent choice allowing the tasters to compare where Australian wine came to (and from at the Grange before). This is your typical power bomb, but in good balance, modern and full of extract, primary but with a lot to display in this realm. Gregor isn’t for the faint-hearted.

Kracher ‚Nouvelle Vague – Nummer 11‘ 2002 Trockenbeerenauslese (Neusiedlersee) 7%

Score: 98+ (2012) – The winner of the night, no doubt. Close to perfection and still made from daddy Kracher (R.I.P.). Liquid magic!

D’Arenberg Vintage Fortified Shiraz 1997, McLaren Vale, 18,5%

Score: 90 (2012) -Highly decorated, so we thought it might be able to step into the shoes of Seppeltsfield’s great products, and d’Arenberg didn’t disappoint with their reds ever. It had the death seat after Kracher but we still could judge it fairly. Not as complex as we hoped, it posesses artificial Amarena-cherry aromas, honey, thyme and some grapes in a sweet surrounding. Not convincing.

At another occassion, we wanted to have a great Friuli white, so we went for a Livio Felluga – and a Switzerland wine, a Fendant:

Livio Felluga ‚Collio‘ 2006 Sauvignon DOC, 13,5%

Comment: Big fruit (jammy peach, peach core, gooseberry, cassis, green apple, eldeflower, dash of lime), honey, some hay and vanilla on the nose. Promising. On the palate, however, this is way less exuberant and rather dry. The hay takes over big time (dislike!), along with apple, gooseberry, elderflower, lemon zest and a medium-intense acidity. The finish reveals peach core (persipan) and green grapes. Maybe it aged a bit too long, who knows. I expected more clarity and vibrancy somehow, this seems a bit subdued.

Score: 91 (2012)

Cave St-Pierre Fendant 2012 AOC Valais, 12%

Comment: Green and yellow apples, gooseberries, a dash of lime and hay with a little acid in the nose. The palate reminds me of Cider and apple seeds and potatoe skin, but what this wine really lacks is acidity. A flat one, even in the finish (again with potatoe and apple skin).

Score: 72 (2012)

Bogle Vineyards Petite Sirah 2006, Graton, CA, 13,5%

Comment: This Californina reveals red fruit jelly, bell pepper, vanilla, brioche, oak, herbs (Provence) and leather, all rather primary, a ’nice to meet you‘-wine without a lot of depth.

Score: 89 (2012)

The last five wines were tasted in various situations in which no tasting notes could be taken, so I will just post scores and maybe a word or two:

Argentiera 2003 Bolgheri Superiore DOC 14% (Magnum)

Score: 92/93 (2012) – Typical Bolgheri from the hot vintage 2003 with a rock solid performance. A lot of wood though, a touch too much, as AC DC would state it. We had this with the Genießerstammtisch in the Regensburg-Winzer vineyards high above the city, where we could also try a really decent Merlot from that very place. A wonderful event.

Familie Heitzer Regensburger Landwein (Bach) 2008 Müller-Thurgau trocken 11%

Score: 86 (2010 – 2012) – One of the few convincing wines grown in my region, a nice sipper.

Delaunois D. & Fils Champagne 1er Cru Brut Selection 12%

Score: 88 (2012) – I raved about the Grand Cru Cuvee Royal, but this version is a bit closed and not overly complex.

Dr. Gänz Weißer Riesling 2010 Spätlese feinherb, Nahe, 11%

Score: 90+ (2012)

Bernd Kilburg Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr 2006 Riesling Auslese, Mosel, 10%

Score: 90 (2012)

After this tour de force more wine reviews will follow. Stay tuned and join us in one of our tastings.

Ledaig 7 y.o. Archives 2004 – 2012, Hogshead 90009, 302 btl., 61,9%

Comment: Ok, this is complex for its age, the lead aromas are peat, farmyard (compost pile), iodine and mustard. In the second row there are tires, soot, salt and ferns detectable. I am also getting a little sulphur, the smoke of a beach bonfire, wet cowboy boots (leather), lemon juice, white beans, chalk, black pepper, cocoa and stinging nettle in the nose – all that is more clean than dirty. On the palate this Ledaig is greener than the nose had suggested, there are green malt, ferns, eucalypt, pistachio, green tea, mustard, mint and nettles in good balance. Then it becomes quite South Coast Islay leading into a long and satisfying finish on peat, iodine, tires, mustard, cocoa, a dash of lemon and some green stuff, altogether not totally unlike younger Ardbeg. I like this a lot. Recommendation!

Score: 90

Allt-a-Bhainne 18 y.o. 20.5.1992 – 2.2011, Bourbon Hogshead No. 6, 273 btl., 56,1%

Comment: Licorice, malt, heather, ginger and coal dust rule this dram. One can also find vanilla cream, oak, toffee, leafs, honey, pistachio, spinach, spices (white pepper and chili) and fruit (mainly apples but also peach and pineapple) in the nose of this Speysider. It tastes and finishes rather dry on hay, licorice, white pepper, oak and apricot fruit, quite similar to its nose. Water helps a lot by making this Allt-a-Bhainne creamy and less dry with a better balance. Decent, I must say. Not only one to complete your ‚drinking map‘ of Scotland.

Score: 84

Longmorn 19 y.o. Archives 10.1992 – 5.2012, Bourbon Cask 86607, 60 btl., 48,5%

Comment: Indeed summery. There are five main themes which are apricot (the fruit and a flavoured apricot tea), raw black tea, sugar-coated cookies, white oak (with vanilla) and coal. A nice sweetness, which is not only coming from the pastry but also from the malt, fits well with other fruits like apples, crystallized pineapples and lemons. All this is accompanied by some nutty elements, grass and spice (white pepper, chili, ginger). Good altogether, but not great yet. But hold on: On the palate, it really starts performing on a higher level with excellent balance. Slightly sweet, liqueurish and very fruity, all aromas wrapped in a vanilla-oak-combo and some nutty elements. The finish is likewise (which means pretty darn good). No water necessary. A good Longmorn for the second look.

Score: 88